North Island, New Zealand

Journey along the Path of Maority


surf time
Young New Zealand surfer contemplates the Pacific Ocean on a beach in the north of Hawke's Bay, in the east of the North Island.
pure intimidation
Maori warrior showgirl stars in a secular warrior ritual.
In a sulphurous fog
Visitors walk in the fog of Craters da Lua, a highly geothermal surface located in Taupo, in the heart of the North Island.
Maneuvers for
Maori woman handles poi balls, created throughout history by tribal women for their enjoyment but also used by men to increase their strength and flexibility.
a maori lake
Lake Rotomahana, located in the vicinity of Mount Tarawera, a volcano responsible for one of New Zealand's most destructive eruptions.
Koru spiral
A sculpture of a koru, a Maori symbol inspired by the new curled leaves of the silver ferns that abound in New Zealand. Symbolize new life and growth.
crimson show
Moment of an ethnic show but something conceptual starring young people Maori.
green and irrigated island
One of the numerous waterfalls in the interior of the North Island formed after rains.
workshop work
Instructor examines the work of a Maori wood crafts apprentice.
Maori memory
Historical photograph of a Maori woman dressed and tattooed according to tradition.
maori duo
Two Maori actors from a themed village on the outskirts of Rotorua. The man, with lighter skin and hair and features, reenacts the native tradition of sticking out his tongue as a sign of defiance.
kiwi force of nature
Autumn setting on the Waikato River, near Taupo, heart of the North Island.
colonial architecture
Section of the historic building of the Rotorua Museum a colonial building detached from the center of Rotorua.
Waitangi
Flagpole with flags confirming the agreement between the Maori people and the European settlers.
Canoe
New Zealand is one of the countries where the descendants of settlers and natives most respect each other. As we explored its northern island, we became aware of the interethnic maturation of this very old nation. Commonwealth as Maori and Polynesia.

There are three new features that come to Rotorua for the first time, like us:

a widespread and intense sulfurous aroma, the great concentration of native inhabitants and an unexpected profusion of Maori cultural spectacles.

The last two, more than the first, attracted us to the city, but we were still miles from its entrance when the sulfur particles in the atmosphere invaded our nostrils.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Rotorua Museum

Section of the historic building of the Rotorua Museum a colonial building detached from the center of Rotorua.

Mile after mile, we penetrated into New Zealand's most dynamic thermal zone, dotted with geysers, thermal springs and explosive mud puddles.

Meanwhile, the reeking odor took hold of the interior of the car, our clothes, luggage, as well as the streets and the room in which we stayed.

That same roadside shelter set a limit to the idiocy we'd found ourselves in for months, carrying a purchased camping tent in Perth, in the distant western end of oceania.

The tent had already made us suffer a lot to avoid paying fines for being overweight from the airlines. We decided to get rid of it and the Cash Converter we found seemed perfect.

"It gives me the idea that they haven't put it to much use!" shoots Jonas, the young Maori bartender, after the inevitable kia of welcome and with a good mood and a strong glow in his eyes.

As he did so, the clerk continued the conversation frantically.

Under the famous passion Maori by the korero (chatter), he talked about himself and his family without any ceremony or complexes and questioned us, in an innocent and interested way, about us and ours.

We lost almost 70 dollars in the deal but we profited from the confirmation of the Maori people's friendliness and vivacity, a notion that we had begun to form, in HobartAt Tasmania, in contact with Helena Gill, an immigrant hostess at the back doors of Australia.

And, in other contacts in the vast South Island, where both the general population and the Maori are much smaller than those of the neighboring North.

We only knew the Maori from those first contacts and, like most people who set foot in New Zealand for the first time, from “Piano” by Jane Campion – with Harvey Keitel playing Baines, a retired sailor and ranger who had adapted many of the indigenous customs including the eccentric facial tattoo still used by many Maoris.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Maori Memory

Historical photograph of a Maori woman dressed and tattooed according to tradition.

It was time to find out more.

Rotorua, a Volcanic and Plague Core of New Zealand Maori

Even if in business, nowhere else in the country did the Maoris exhibit their customs and rituals as much as in Rotorua. Faced with the inexistence of a true festival or ethnic event for those days, we settled for one of the shows.

At the entrance to the themed village, warriors armed with batons confronted us with their warlike movements and frightening grimaces, used over time to keep unwanted visitors at bay.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Warrior

Maori warrior showgirl stars in a secular warrior ritual.

Once the threat was over, a village chief greeted the newly appointed visitor representative with a welcoming brush of noses.

The Maori and European Colonization of Aoteraoa, the Islands of New Zealand

Once our presence was validated, we wandered from house to house in the alleged village to admire various customs, arts and crafts, some narrated and explained by their protagonists.

This was followed by a musical and dance show that included the most desired of performances, a haka carried out by men and women.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, show

Moment of an ethnic show but something conceptual starring young people Maori.

Today, less than 40% of Rotorua's nearly 70 inhabitants are Maori, a percentage well above 15% of New Zealand's total.

This is believed to have been the last stop of a diaspora of more than two thousand years aboard large canoes waka that led the Polynesians from Southeast Asia to Fiji, Samoa, Tonga, French Polynesia islands and Cook, Hawaii e Easter Island.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Waitangi canoe

Maori ceremonial canoe at the site of the Treaty of Waitangi, North Island.

In the centuries following their arrival in Aoteraoa – as the Maoris call New Zealand – they forged their own culture, differentiated from the rest of Polynesia by its isolation, temperate rather than tropical climate and befitting nature.

After the landing of James Cook in 1769 – 127 years after the pioneering arrival of Dutchman Abel Tasman - depending on the zones and heights, relations between the Maoris and the Europeans fluctuated between a convenient cordiality and the New Zealand Land Wars.

This particular conflict was unresolved in 1840 by the controversial Treaty of Waitangi.

In it it was established that the settlers recognized the Maoris as the true owners of their domains and properties and that they would enjoy the same rights as the British subjects.

The natives remained in the still rural strongholds of their tribes. But by 1930, work in the field was already scarce. Many indigenous people migrated to cities founded by Europeans.

This confluence led to the abandonment of tribal structures and the Maori assimilation of Western ways of life.

And the Intricate Ethnic Coexistence between Maori and European Descendants

Even if less obvious than in the great cities of Auckland and the capital Wellington, when we drive around Rotorua and Taupo – where we take small steps towards humanity subsumed in the sulfurous mist of the Craters of the Moon.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Rotorua fog

Visitors walk in the fog of Craters da Lua, a highly geothermal surface located in Taupo, in the heart of the North Island.

And for other smaller settlements, we find that the coexistence of Maori and settler descendants is just evolving.

Despite the agreed upon in Waitangi, the settlers had already seized the best lands, with an obvious advantage in the modern life that they imposed on the nation.

This supremacy left the Maoris in social and economic predicaments, starting with the difficulty in accessing higher education and having qualified and well-paid jobs.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Workshops

Instructor examines the work of a Maori wood crafts apprentice.

Accordingly, most native families are concentrated in peripheral neighborhoods with far more precarious living conditions than those of the middle class of British descent or of many Asian and other immigrants.

In far too many cases, they depend on social security checks, are more prone to illness and domestic violence, and make up more than half of the prison population.

Growing Respect for Maori Territories and Rights

But since 1960, the situation continues to improve. In that decade, a court declared colonial land confiscations illegal.

Shortly thereafter, the government returned to the Maori people their sacred places and natural resources.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Waikato River

Autumn setting on the Waikato River, near Taupo, heart of the North Island.

For many Maoris who consider themselves guests of the whites, only then did the long Earth Wars end.

The number of Maori representatives in parliament has increased and the value of Maori culture and the Te Reo dialect – which already appears on road signs, maps, etc. – has increased. etc. – soared with the abrupt increase in foreign visitors to the kiwi islands.

A recent network of kindergartens, schools and universities now ensure Maori language education complemented by a national chain of radio stations and TV channels owned and managed by the Maori themselves who are gaining more and more notoriety.

The World Notoriety of the Maori People, for Their Mighty Rugby

As we were writing this same text, the rugby world championship was taking place in the land of the old English settlers. As is almost always the case, New Zealand was the team that stood out and attracted the most.

It even makes us interrupt its creation to watch the French massacre at the arms of the All Blacks (62-13) in the quarter-finals. Seven of the All Blacks players present in the competition are Maori.

All games in the national team Kiwi start after haka exuberant that the Maoris granted that they were also danced by players pakeha and that even intimidate us.

In fact, a few years ago, when the Maoris decided to introduce a new haka, the entire Pakeha rugby community got involved in the debate, something that helps to exemplify the seriousness of the inter-ethnic commitment we have witnessed day after day across New Zealand, when the Maori identities and pakeha they dissolve under the fusion of genetics.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Surfing time

Young New Zealand surfer contemplates the Pacific Ocean on a beach in the north of Hawke's Bay, in the east of the North Island.

On the way out of some beach showers in Whangarei, we meet Renee Lee. In the middle of the verbiage, the young tattooed surfer asks us the complex question: “Maori...?

I never really know if I'm Maori or pakeha. My father is Maori and my mother is Dutch.

My daughter is blonde… Tell me, what do you think I am?”

Nelson to Wharariki, Abel Tasman NP, New Zealand

The Maori coastline on which Europeans landed

Abel Janszoon Tasman explored more of the newly mapped and mythical "Terra australis" when a mistake soured the contact with natives of an unknown island. The episode inaugurated the colonial history of the New Zealand. Today, both the divine coast on which the episode took place and the surrounding seas evoke the Dutch navigator.
Wanaka, New Zealand

The Antipodes Great Outdoors

If New Zealand is known for its tranquility and intimacy with Nature, Wanaka exceeds any imagination. Located in an idyllic setting between the homonymous lake and the mystic Mount Aspiring, it became a place of worship. Many kiwis aspire to change their lives there.
Banks Peninsula, New Zealand

The Divine Earth Shard of the Banks Peninsula

Seen from the air, the most obvious bulge on the South Island's east coast appears to have imploded again and again. Volcanic but verdant and bucolic, the Banks Peninsula confines in its almost cogwheel geomorphology the essence of the ever enviable New Zealand life.
napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s - Calhambeque Tour

In a city rebuilt in Art Deco and with an atmosphere of the "crazy years" and beyond, the adequate means of transportation are the elegant classic automobiles of that era. In Napier, they are everywhere.
Christchurch, New Zealand

New Zealand's Cursed Wizard

Despite his notoriety in the antipodes, Ian Channell, the New Zealand sorcerer, failed to predict or prevent several earthquakes that struck Christchurch. At the age of 88, after 23 years of contract with the city, he made very controversial statements and ended up fired.
Tongariro, New Zealand

The Volcanoes of All Discords

In the late XNUMXth century, an indigenous chief ceded the PN Tongariro volcanoes to the British crown. Today, a significant part of the Maori people claim their mountains of fire from European settlers.
New Zealand  

When Counting Sheep causes Sleep Loss

20 years ago, New Zealand had 18 sheep per inhabitant. For political and economic reasons, the average was halved. In the antipodes, many breeders are worried about their future.
Mount cook, New Zealand

The Cloud Piercer Mountain

Aoraki/Mount Cook may fall far short of the world's roof but it is New Zealand's highest and most imposing mountain.
Napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s

Devastated by an earthquake, Napier was rebuilt in an almost ground-floor Art Deco and lives pretending to stop in the Thirties. Its visitors surrender to the Great Gatsby atmosphere that the city enacts.
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.
bay of islands, New Zealand

New Zealand's Civilization Core

Waitangi is the key place for independence and the long-standing coexistence of native Maori and British settlers. In the surrounding Bay of Islands, the idyllic marine beauty of the New Zealand antipodes is celebrated, but also the complex and fascinating kiwi nation.
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.
savuti, botswana, elephant-eating lions
Safari
Savuti, Botswana

Savuti's Elephant-Eating Lions

A patch of the Kalahari Desert dries up or is irrigated depending on the region's tectonic whims. In Savuti, lions have become used to depending on themselves and prey on the largest animals in the savannah.
Prayer flags in Ghyaru, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 4th – Upper Banana to Ngawal, Nepal

From Nightmare to Dazzle

Unbeknownst to us, we are faced with an ascent that leads us to despair. We pulled our strength as far as possible and reached Ghyaru where we felt closer than ever to the Annapurnas. The rest of the way to Ngawal felt like a kind of extension of the reward.
A Lost and Found City
Architecture & Design
Machu Picchu, Peru

The City Lost in the Mystery of the Incas

As we wander around Machu Picchu, we find meaning in the most accepted explanations for its foundation and abandonment. But whenever the complex is closed, the ruins are left to their enigmas.
Full Dog Mushing
Adventure
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.
drinks entre reis, cavalhadas de pirenopolis, crusades, brazil
Ceremonies and Festivities
Pirenópolis, Brazil

Brazilian Crusades

Christian armies expelled Muslim forces from the Iberian Peninsula in the XNUMXth century. XV but, in Pirenópolis, in the Brazilian state of Goiás, the South American subjects of Carlos Magno continue to triumph.
Camel Racing, Desert Festival, Sam Sam Dunes, Rajasthan, India
Cities
Jaisalmer, India

There's a Feast in the Thar Desert

As soon as the short winter breaks, Jaisalmer indulges in parades, camel races, and turban and mustache competitions. Its walls, alleys and surrounding dunes take on more color than ever. During the three days of the event, natives and outsiders watch, dazzled, as the vast and inhospitable Thar finally shines through.
Beverage Machines, Japan
Meal
Japan

The Beverage Machines Empire

There are more than 5 million ultra-tech light boxes spread across the country and many more exuberant cans and bottles of appealing drinks. The Japanese have long since stopped resisting them.
Culture
Competitions

Man: an Ever Tested Species

It's in our genes. For the pleasure of participating, for titles, honor or money, competitions give meaning to the world. Some are more eccentric than others.
combat arbiter, cockfighting, philippines
Sport
Philippines

When Only Cock Fights Wake Up the Philippines

Banned in much of the First World, cockfighting thrives in the Philippines where they move millions of people and pesos. Despite its eternal problems, it is the sabong that most stimulates the nation.
Cove, Big Sur, California, United States
Traveling
Big Sur, USA

The Coast of All Refuges

Over 150km, the Californian coast is subjected to a vastness of mountains, ocean and fog. In this epic setting, hundreds of tormented souls follow in the footsteps of Jack Kerouac and Henri Miller.
Native Americans Parade, Pow Pow, Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States
Ethnic
Albuquerque, USA

When the Drums Sound, the Indians Resist

With more than 500 tribes present, the pow wow "Gathering of the Nations" celebrates the sacred remnants of Native American cultures. But it also reveals the damage inflicted by colonizing civilization.
View of Fa Island, Tonga, Last Polynesian Monarchy
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Exotic Signs of Life

Guardian, Stalin Museum, Gori, Georgia
History
Upplistsikhe e Gori, Georgia

From the Cradle of Georgia to Stalin's Childhood

In the discovery of the Caucasus, we explore Uplistsikhe, a troglodyte city that preceded Georgia. And just 10km away, in Gori, we find the place of the troubled childhood of Joseb Jughashvili, who would become the most famous and tyrant of Soviet leaders.
Sun and coconut trees, São Nicolau, Cape Verde
Islands
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

São Nicolau: Pilgrimage to Terra di Sodade

Forced matches like those that inspired the famous morna “soda” made the pain of having to leave the islands of Cape Verde very strong. Discovering saninclau, between enchantment and wonder, we pursue the genesis of song and melancholy.
Sampo Icebreaker, Kemi, Finland
Winter White
Kemi, Finland

It's No "Love Boat". Breaks the Ice since 1961

Built to maintain waterways through the most extreme arctic winter, the icebreaker Sampo” fulfilled its mission between Finland and Sweden for 30 years. In 1988, he reformed and dedicated himself to shorter trips that allow passengers to float in a newly opened channel in the Gulf of Bothnia, in clothes that, more than special, seem spacey.
José Saramago in Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain, Glorieta de Saramago
Literature
Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

José Saramago's Basalt Raft

In 1993, frustrated by the Portuguese government's disregard for his work “The Gospel According to Jesus Christ”, Saramago moved with his wife Pilar del Río to Lanzarote. Back on this somewhat extraterrestrial Canary Island, we visited his home. And the refuge from the portuguese censorship that haunted the writer.
Faithful light candles, Milarepa Grotto temple, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Nature
Annapurna Circuit: 9th Manang to Milarepa Cave, Nepal

A Walk between Acclimatization and Pilgrimage

In full Annapurna Circuit, we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). we still need acclimatize to the higher stretches that followed, we inaugurated an equally spiritual journey to a Nepalese cave of Milarepa (4000m), the refuge of a siddha (sage) and Buddhist saint.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Autumn
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Graciosa, Azores, Monte da Ajuda
Natural Parks
Graciosa, Azores

Her Grace the Graciosa

Finally, we will disembark in Graciosa, our ninth island in the Azores. Even if less dramatic and verdant than its neighbors, Graciosa preserves an Atlantic charm that is its own. Those who have the privilege of living it, take from this island of the central group an esteem that remains forever.
Robben Island Island, Apartheid, South Africa, Portico
UNESCO World Heritage
Robben Island, South Africa

The Island off the Apartheid

Bartolomeu Dias was the first European to glimpse Robben Island, when crossing the Cape of Storms. Over the centuries, the colonists turned it into an asylum and prison. Nelson Mandela left in 1982 after eighteen years in prison. Twelve years later, he became South Africa's first black president.
aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Characters
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
Drums and Tattoos
Beaches
Tahiti, French Polynesia

Tahiti Beyond the Cliché

Neighbors Bora Bora and Maupiti have superior scenery but Tahiti has long been known as paradise and there is more life on the largest and most populous island of French Polynesia, its ancient cultural heart.
Conflicted Way
Religion
Jerusalem, Israel

Through the Belicious Streets of Via Dolorosa

In Jerusalem, while traveling the Via Dolorosa, the most sensitive believers realize how difficult the peace of the Lord is to achieve in the most disputed streets on the face of the earth.
Train Kuranda train, Cairns, Queensland, Australia
On Rails
Cairns-Kuranda, Australia

Train to the Middle of the Jungle

Built out of Cairns to save miners isolated in the rainforest from starvation by flooding, the Kuranda Railway eventually became the livelihood of hundreds of alternative Aussies.
Magome to Tsumago, Nakasendo, Path medieval Japan
Society
Magome-Tsumago, Japan

Magome to Tsumago: The Overcrowded Path to the Medieval Japan

In 1603, the Tokugawa shogun dictated the renovation of an ancient road system. Today, the most famous stretch of the road that linked Edo to Kyoto is covered by a mob eager to escape.
Coin return
Daily life
Dawki, India

Dawki, Dawki, Bangladesh on sight

We descended from the high and mountainous lands of Meghalaya to the flats to the south and below. There, the translucent and green stream of the Dawki forms the border between India and Bangladesh. In a damp heat that we haven't felt for a long time, the river also attracts hundreds of Indians and Bangladeshis in a picturesque escape.
Maria Jacarés, Pantanal Brazil
Wildlife
Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Scenic Flights
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.