Ilha de Mozambique, Mozambique  

The Island of Ali Musa Bin Bique. Pardon... of Mozambique


At the end of the afternoon
Fishermen on board their dhow off the north coast of Stone City.
in half shadow
Kids play in front of the façade of the Misericórdia church.
faith in line
Believers prostrate inside the mosque on Rua da Solidariedade, the largest on the Island of Mozambique.
posted data
Friends play a board game decorated with the logos of Benfica, Barcelona, ​​Sporting and the image of Cristiano Ronaldo.
islam chalked
A Muslim believer prays in front of a framework with religious and behavioral directives.
Navigation time
Fishermen in small fishing canoes in front of the São Sebastião fortress.
above the story
Passersby around the Vasco da Gama statue, in front of the island's Maritime Museum.
A good buy
Women display an octopus just bought from fishermen, near the Fortim de Santo António.
just because yes
Teenagers kiss next to an ambulance parked in front of the mosque on Rua da Solidariedade.
an avenue in pastel
Passersby on Amilcar Cabral Avenue, one of the main arteries of Cidade de Pedra.
Step by step
Muslim women pass in front of the old hospital on Ilha de Moçambique, once the oldest in southern Africa.
Embarkation-Disembarkation
Owners of dhow they look after their boats while the tide goes out.
Siro
A resident of Ilha de Moçambique retouches her mossiro mask, which was previously damaged by the inevitable sweat in these tropical latitudes.
among coconut trees
Resident talks on his cell phone, installed in front of the Fortim de Santo António church.
in the shadow of time
Couple conversing protected from the strong sun and overlooking the fortress of São Sebastião.
With the arrival of Vasco da Gama in the extreme south-east of Africa, the Portuguese took over an island that had previously been ruled by an Arab emir, who ended up misrepresenting the name. The emir lost his territory and office. Mozambique - the molded name - remains on the resplendent island where it all began and also baptized the nation that Portuguese colonization ended up forming.

Next to us, during the more than three hours of crushing on the ticket that linked Nampula to Ilha de Moçambique, a young Mozambican mother with obvious Indian genetics talks to her little daughter and puts up with her tantrums.

He always speaks to you in a haughty way, very audible to the other passengers and with a delicious post-colonial accent that is more noticeable to us than that of many Portuguese. When we reach the end of the 4km narrow bridge that connects the mainland to Ilha de Moçambique and the long and exhausting journey from Gorongous, this exuberant passenger explains to the driver where the Terrace of Quitandas is.

Mr. António, the host of this stunning guest house full of history, welcomes us.

We take rewarding showers and sleep until longer. We saw him again at the first breakfast with his company, an invigorating meal in which we talked mainly about the road trip we had been through.

A Mozambican of Portuguese origin, from well before the colonial war and independence, António tells us about his life experiences in Lichinga, the capital of the province of Niassa, and the trips that most influenced him. We talk until the magnetism of Ilha de Moçambique attracts us without appeal and sends us back to its centuries-old streets.

From the Terrace of Quitandas to the Massive Fort of São Sebastião

The imagination of the great fort, the largest in sub-Saharan Africa, built between 1558 and 1620, with stones that arrived on the island as ballasts for Portuguese vessels, seduces us. Already armed with a small map, we find it in a few minutes. Adílio and Hélio, two kids on the island, aspiring guides, make conversation with mild manners.

They follow us chatting among themselves and with neighbors they meet along the way. They use the Macua dialect. With us, a curious young Portuguese.

They end up offering us a lot of important information and a friendly company that would last until nightfall. Over the next few days, Omar, a 14 or 15-year-old street vendor of samosas, replaces them.

Fortress of São Sebastião, Island of Mozambique

Couple conversation protected from the strong sun and overlooking the fortress of São Sebastião

We contemplate the São Sebastião fortress for the first time from the tip of a small white sand, surrounded by the crystalline shores of the Indian Ocean.

Around this time, three fishermen are launching canoes into the water. Soon they round the most amphibious edge of the fortress and disappear behind.

We left that bathing corner. We pass in front of a fashion store called “Uso Africano. There, a group of friends play on a board decorated with symbols of Benfica, Barcelona, ​​Sporting and an iconic CR7 painting in each corner of the square.

Traditional game from the island of Mozambique

Friends play a board game decorated with the logos of Benfica, Barcelona, ​​Sporting and the image of Cristiano Ronaldo.

Hélio and Adílio know that the fort is outside their area of ​​influence and are following the hobby. Instead, a seller of old coins made with the guard of the monument guides us to accompany us without having to pay the entrance fee.

The Baron of Arms of the Portuguese Crown insinuates himself at the top of the old portal through which we pass. As we walk along the wide adarves, we surrender to the reminiscence of the Portuguese feats of other times.

The Outstanding Anchorage of Vasco da Gama

Vasco da Gama arrived on the island in 1498, when he wanted to complete the sea route to India of spices. After months of sailing along the wild coast of Africa, he was surprised to see how civilized the place was, said to be an important commercial hub and a kind of naval shipyard then populated by Swahili and black inhabitants, ruled by a vassal emir from the neighbor's sultan Zanzibar.

The emir responded to Ali Mussa bin Bique, with variations of this name over time: Musa ibn Bique, Ali Musa Biki, Ali Mussa bin Bique and others. Whatever his grace, the Portuguese were quick to return and remove him from his post.

Until 1507, they established a port and a kind of naval base blessed by the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte. It has long been considered the dean colonial building of the Southern Hemisphere. Later in the XNUMXth century, the “City of Stone” of the new settlers became the capital of Portuguese territory in East Africa.

Fishermen on the beach near the Fort of São Sebastião, Ilha de Moçambique

Fishermen in small fishing canoes in front of the São Sebastião fortress.

The fort we skirted protected from attacks by Dutch rivals an intense missionary activity and the trade in slaves, spices and gold. Thereafter, infrastructure continued to increase and enriched the colony. They included what was considered for many years the largest hospital in sub-Saharan Africa.

Portuguese Heritage in Contrast with Mozambican Ethnicities

Over time, Ilha de Moçambique was divided between a nuclear area that concentrated the imposing historic buildings: the Cidade de Pedra, and an adjacent residential area, full of low-rise and humble fishermen's houses: Makuti, the term quimoane that defines the covering made of flat coconut leaves.

Return from the fort along Av. dos Continuadores. We enter the Cidade de Pedra, in front of the Palace and Chapel of São Paulo, now colored with a predominant red of white friezes that, despite being worn by the tropical sun and sea air, contrast with the blue sky.

Vasco da Gama Statue, and Maritime Museum, Ilha de Moçambique

Passersby around the Vasco da Gama statue, in front of the island's Maritime Museum.

Built in 1610 as a Jesuit college, the palace later welcomed the governor. Today, it is the Maritime Museum of Ilha de Moçambique. To match, a superb Vasco da Gama statue in front of its main façade looks out over Mossuril Bay. As would happen in browser time, dhow colorful ones are anchored on the gentle coastline below.

The São Paulo Palace opens onto another square bordered by the Misericórdia church and impressive colonial mansions. Of these, the Terrace of Quitandas is one of the most impressive.

This particular corner temple houses a crucifix carved in the style of Maconde art. It continues to welcome masses and the faith of the Christian inhabitants, a minority on this island of Mozambique, who have long been a part of Islam.

Misericórdia Church, Ilha de Mozambique

Kids play in front of the façade of the Misericórdia church.

We cut to Amílcar Cabral Avenue. We walk, dragged along by a tide of students in blue and white uniforms who, on their way home from school, converse with great care. A part of them follows in the shadow of the street's arcades. Others prefer the middle of the road, which is bordered by the surrounding houses, by old mansions that succeed each other in different pastel shades.

The Adventures and Misadventures of Luís de Camões on the Island of Mozambique

On the parallel and marginal street of Combatentes, the house where Luís de Camões lived preserves a similar plaster. By restoring, it degrades before our eyes.

Camões lived on the Island of Mozambique between 1567 and 1569. Goa and he settled down for some time in the expectation that his friend Diogo do Couto would find him there and help raise money for the ticket to Lisbon. On the island, it will have ended “The Lusiads” before having the work edited in the capital of the Empire.

It is even possible that Barbara “that captive who has me captive” was a black slave she met there. She would most likely be Mozambican and would have left her with deep disgust.

We left the poet's house given over to erosion. We continue down Rua dos Combatentes towards the southwest of the island. Along this other coastal road, the Cyan Indian Ocean finds its limit in an old colonial wall. Just a few meters away, the wall gives way to the cove and the gentle beach that serve as recreation for the Makutian district of Areal.

Fishermen trade fish, octopus and cuttlefish with some young housewives. Two of them, wrapped in hijabs and lush capulanas stay with the molluscs. They show us the triumph of bargaining and point to their afternoon tasks.

Residents display fish, island of Mozambique

Women display an octopus just bought from fishermen, near the Fortim de Santo António.

Neighborhood kids take advantage of this short interaction and surround us. "akunha! akunha!” (Whites! Whites!) shout determined to claim the photographic attention of their contentment.

We negotiated the rest of the walk around Ilha de Moçambique with as much patience as possible. To the vicinity of the Fortim de Santo António and the colony of leafy and stiff coconut trees that accompany it.

Mussiro, the Sun Mask and Mozambican Beauty

Nearby, a group of women are peeling beans in a mild cavaqueira. One of them, older, protects herself from the sun with an exuberant mossiro mask. Mossiro is the natural sunscreen of these parts, made from a plant substance used for centuries by the “muthiana prays”, the beautiful girls from the Nampula region.

Proudly, the lady gives us permission to photograph her but is warned by the others that part of the mask has dissipated. “Come with me” urges us. "Let's get this straight!"

We follow it through the stone, clay and cane houses of Bairro do Areal. We are accompanied by dozens of neighbors excited by the unexpected expedition. Arriving at her house, she enters. She returns shortly afterwards with a casual beauty kit, sits down and reconstitutes the mask as best she knows how.

A resident of the island of Mozambique composes a moss tree mask, Mozambique

A resident of Ilha de Moçambique retouches her mossiro mask, which was previously damaged by the inevitable sweat in these tropical latitudes.

We, enjoyed and recorded that fascinating face art. Until the lady shows us the perfect work, we thank her and we all return to the starting point.

A few hundred meters away, with the southern end of the island at the edge, we come across the long bridge that joins it to the mainland. An employee in uniform controls the gate that determines the passage of traffic to and fro. During breaks, chat in the shade of your cabin.

Island of Mozambique: Legacy of Islam and Slavery

We reversed the path, now along Solidarity Street, which runs along the western edge of Makuti's houses. We pass the door of the local RENAMO headquarters. Then, through a port of deep-sea fishermen left to work. Then, for the largest mosque on the island, green and white, as suggested by Muslim precepts.

the call of the muezzin place soon appealed for the new communion of Muslim men with Allah.

Muslim believers on the island of Mozambique

Believers prostrate inside the mosque on Rua da Solidariedade, the largest on the Island of Mozambique

Somewhere there, Rua da Solidariedade becomes Rua dos Trabalhadores. At the fish market, as usual, vendors and vendors hold dramatic and noisy discussions that amuse the most spirited passersby.

We listen to them almost as far as the entrance to the Jardim da Memória, where, on the contrary, the topic discussed can only be taken seriously.

From the end of the XNUMXth century to the turn of the XNUMXth century, and for most of that time, despite the Portuguese Crown, Ilha de Moçambique remained a slave warehouse which processed the trafficking of natives from East Africa mainly to the Indian Islands off Mozambique or to the north (Mauritius, Reunion Island, Madagascar, Seychelles) but also for the Brazil.

The Portuguese Slavery Traffic, on the Zanzibarian Path

The trafficking was already carried out by Arab slavers based in Zanzibar operating in northern Mozambique. There, with the connivance of Muslim Muslim leaders and other ethnic groups, they captured large contingents of indigenous people around Lake Niassa and went down the coast to sell them.

By seizing the island, the Portuguese forced their participation in this traffic, keeping the captives and sending them from there to their final destinations. Located right on the edge of the Indian Ocean, the Jardim da Memória was built to recover the atrocious reality of that colonial era.

When we visit it, we cross history from the days of Ali Musa Bique towards the independence of Mozambique. The island, we unraveled it until we could no longer. Then we traveled to an unavoidable historical sister: Ibo, in the Quirimbas archipelago.

More about Ilha de Moçambique on the respective page of UNESCO.

Ibo Island a Quirimba IslandMozambique

Ibo to Quirimba with the Tide

For centuries, the natives have traveled in and out of the mangrove between the island of Ibo and Quirimba, in the time that the overwhelming return trip from the Indian Ocean grants them. Discovering the region, intrigued by the eccentricity of the route, we follow its amphibious steps.
Pemba, Mozambique

From Porto Amélia to the Shelter Port of Mozambique

In July 2017, we visited Pemba. Two months later, the first attack took place on Mocímboa da Praia. Nor then do we dare to imagine that the tropical and sunny capital of Cabo Delgado would become the salvation of thousands of Mozambicans fleeing a terrifying jihadism.
Table Mountain, South Africa

At the Adamastor Monster Table

From the earliest times of the Discoveries to the present, Table Mountain has always stood out above the South African immensity South African and the surrounding ocean. The centuries passed and Cape Town expanded at his feet. The capetonians and the visiting outsiders got used to contemplating, ascending and venerating this imposing and mythical plateau.
Ibo Island, Mozambique

Island of a Gone Mozambique

It was fortified in 1791 by the Portuguese who expelled the Arabs from the Quirimbas and seized their trade routes. It became the 2nd Portuguese outpost on the east coast of Africa and later the capital of the province of Cabo Delgado, Mozambique. With the end of the slave trade at the turn of the XNUMXth century and the passage from the capital to Porto Amélia, Ibo Island found itself in the fascinating backwater in which it is located.
bazaruto, Mozambique

The Inverted Mirage of Mozambique

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Príncipe, Sao Tome and Principe

Journey to the Noble Retreat of Príncipe Island

150 km of solitude north of the matriarch São Tomé, the island of Príncipe rises from the deep Atlantic against an abrupt and volcanic mountain-covered jungle setting. Long enclosed in its sweeping tropical nature and a contained but moving Luso-colonial past, this small African island still houses more stories to tell than visitors to listen to.
NP Gorongosa, Mozambique

The Wild Heart of Mozambique shows Signs of Life

Gorongosa was home to one of the most exuberant ecosystems in Africa, but from 1980 to 1992 it succumbed to the Civil War waged between FRELIMO and RENAMO. Greg Carr, Voice Mail's millionaire inventor received a message from the Mozambican ambassador to the UN challenging him to support Mozambique. For the good of the country and humanity, Carr pledged to resurrect the stunning national park that the Portuguese colonial government had created there.
Lüderitz, Namibia

Wilkommen in Africa

Chancellor Bismarck has always disdained overseas possessions. Against his will and all odds, in the middle of the Race for Africa, merchant Adolf Lüderitz forced Germany to take over an inhospitable corner of the continent. The homonymous city prospered and preserves one of the most eccentric heritages of the Germanic empire.
Enxame Mozambique

Mozambican Fashion Service Area

It is repeated at almost all stops in towns of Mozambique worthy of appearing on maps. The machimbombo (bus) stops and is surrounded by a crowd of eager "businessmen". The products offered can be universal such as water or biscuits or typical of the area. In this region, a few kilometers from Nampula, fruit sales suceeded, in each and every case, quite intense.
Cape of Good Hope - Cape of Good Hope NP, South Africa

On the edge of the Old End of the World

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Elmina, Ghana

The First Jackpot of the Portuguese Discoveries

In the century. XVI, Mina generated to the Crown more than 310 kg of gold annually. This profit aroused the greed of the The Netherlands and from England, which succeeded one another in the place of the Portuguese and promoted the slave trade to the Americas. The surrounding village is still known as Elmina, but today fish is its most obvious wealth.
Sao Tome and Principe

Cocoa Roças, Corallo and the Chocolate Factory

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Esteros del Iberá, Pantanal Argentina, Alligator
Safari
Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

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Mount Lamjung Kailas Himal, Nepal, altitude sickness, mountain prevent treat, travel
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 2nd - Chame to Upper PisangNepal,

(I) Eminent Annapurnas

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A Lost and Found City
Architecture & Design
Machu Picchu, Peru

The City Lost in the Mystery of the Incas

As we wander around Machu Picchu, we find meaning in the most accepted explanations for its foundation and abandonment. But whenever the complex is closed, the ruins are left to their enigmas.
Adventure
Boat Trips

For Those Becoming Internet Sick

Hop on and let yourself go on unmissable boat trips like the Philippine archipelago of Bacuit and the frozen sea of ​​the Finnish Gulf of Bothnia.
self-flagellation, passion of christ, philippines
Ceremonies and Festivities
Marinduque, Philippines

The Philippine Passion of Christ

No nation around is Catholic but many Filipinos are not intimidated. In Holy Week, they surrender to the belief inherited from the Spanish colonists. Self-flagellation becomes a bloody test of faith
Aswan, Egypt, Nile River meets Black Africa, Elephantine Island
Cities
Aswan, Egypt

Where the Nile Welcomes the Black Africa

1200km upstream of its delta, the Nile is no longer navigable. The last of the great Egyptian cities marks the fusion between Arab and Nubian territory. Since its origins in Lake Victoria, the river has given life to countless African peoples with dark complexions.
Singapore Asian Capital Food, Basmati Bismi
Meal
Singapore

The Asian Food Capital

There were 4 ethnic groups in Singapore, each with its own culinary tradition. Added to this was the influence of thousands of immigrants and expatriates on an island with half the area of ​​London. It was the nation with the greatest gastronomic diversity in the Orient.
Women with long hair from Huang Luo, Guangxi, China
Culture
Longsheng, China

Huang Luo: the Chinese Village of the Longest Hairs

In a multi-ethnic region covered with terraced rice paddies, the women of Huang Luo have surrendered to the same hairy obsession. They let the longest hair in the world grow, years on end, to an average length of 170 to 200 cm. Oddly enough, to keep them beautiful and shiny, they only use water and rice.
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Sport
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
jet lag avoid flight, jetlag, turbulence
Traveling
Jet Lag (Part 1)

Avoid Post-Flight Turbulence

When we fly across more than 3 time zones, the internal clock that regulates our body gets confused. The most we can do is alleviate the discomfort we feel until it gets right again.
Martian Scenery of the White Desert, Egypt
Ethnic
white desert, Egypt

The Egyptian Shortcut to Mars

At a time when conquering the solar system's neighbor has become an obsession, an eastern section of the Sahara Desert is home to a vast related landscape. Instead of the estimated 150 to 300 days to reach Mars, we took off from Cairo and, in just over three hours, we took our first steps into the Oasis of Bahariya. All around, almost everything makes us feel about the longed-for Red Planet.
View of Fa Island, Tonga, Last Polynesian Monarchy
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Exotic Signs of Life

Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
History
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Island of Goa, Island of Mozambique, Nampula, lighthouse
Islands
Goa island, Ilha de Mozambique, Mozambique

The Island that Illuminates the Island of Mozambique

Located at the entrance to the Mossuril Bay, the small island of Goa is home to a centuries-old lighthouse. Its listed tower signals the first stop of a stunning dhow tour around the old Ilha de Mozambique.

ala juumajarvi lake, oulanka national park, finland
Winter White
Kuusamo ao PN Oulanka, Finland

Under the Arctic's Icy Spell

We are at 66º North and at the gates of Lapland. In these parts, the white landscape belongs to everyone and to no one like the snow-covered trees, the atrocious cold and the endless night.
José Saramago in Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain, Glorieta de Saramago
Literature
Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

José Saramago's Basalt Raft

In 1993, frustrated by the Portuguese government's disregard for his work “The Gospel According to Jesus Christ”, Saramago moved with his wife Pilar del Río to Lanzarote. Back on this somewhat extraterrestrial Canary Island, we visited his home. And the refuge from the portuguese censorship that haunted the writer.
travel western australia, surfspotting
Nature
Perth to Albany, Australia

Across the Far West of Australia

Few people worship evasion like the aussies. With southern summer in full swing and the weekend just around the corner, Perthians are taking refuge from the urban routine in the nation's southwest corner. For our part, without compromise, we explore endless Western Australia to its southern limit.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Van at Jossingfjord, Magma Geopark, Norway
Natural Parks
magma geopark, Norway

A Somehow Lunar Norway

If we went back to the geological ends of time, we would find southwestern Norway filled with huge mountains and a burning magma that successive glaciers would shape. Scientists have found that the mineral that predominates there is more common on the Moon than on Earth. Several of the scenarios we explore in the region's vast Magma Geopark seem to be taken from our great natural satellite.
Moai, Rano Raraku, Easter Island, Rapa Nui, Chile
UNESCO World Heritage
Rapa Nui - Easter Island, Chile

Under the Moais Watchful Eye

Rapa Nui was discovered by Europeans on Easter Day 1722. But if the Christian name Easter Island makes sense, the civilization that colonized it by observant moais remains shrouded in mystery.
View from the top of Mount Vaea and the tomb, Vailima village, Robert Louis Stevenson, Upolu, Samoa
Characters
Upolu, Samoa

Stevenson's Treasure Island

At age 30, the Scottish writer began looking for a place to save him from his cursed body. In Upolu and the Samoans, he found a welcoming refuge to which he gave his heart and soul.
Magnificent Atlantic Days
Beaches
Morro de São Paulo, Brazil

A Divine Seaside of Bahia

Three decades ago, it was just a remote and humble fishing village. Until some post-hippie communities revealed the Morro's retreat to the world and promoted it to a kind of bathing sanctuary.
Peasant woman, Majuli, Assam, India
Religion
Majuli Island, India

An Island in Countdown

Majuli is the largest river island in India and would still be one of the largest on Earth were it not for the erosion of the river Bramaputra that has been making it diminish for centuries. If, as feared, it is submerged within twenty years, more than an island, a truly mystical cultural and landscape stronghold of the Subcontinent will disappear.
Train Fianarantsoa to Manakara, Malagasy TGV, locomotive
On Rails
Fianarantsoa-Manakara, Madagascar

On board the Malagasy TGV

We depart Fianarantsoa at 7a.m. It wasn't until 3am the following morning that we completed the 170km to Manakara. The natives call this almost secular train Train Great Vibrations. During the long journey, we felt, very strongly, those of the heart of Madagascar.
In elevator kimono, Osaka, Japan
Society
Osaka, Japan

In the Company of Mayu

Japanese nightlife is a multi-faceted, multi-billion business. In Osaka, an enigmatic couchsurfing hostess welcomes us, somewhere between the geisha and the luxury escort.
Saksun, Faroe Islands, Streymoy, warning
Daily life
Saksun, StreymoyFaroe Islands

The Faroese Village That Doesn't Want to be Disneyland

Saksun is one of several stunning small villages in the Faroe Islands that more and more outsiders visit. It is distinguished by the aversion to tourists of its main rural owner, author of repeated antipathies and attacks against the invaders of his land.
Fluvial coming and going
Wildlife
Iriomote, Japan

The Small Tropical Japanese Amazon of Iriomote

Impenetrable rainforests and mangroves fill Iriomote under a pressure cooker climate. Here, foreign visitors are as rare as the yamaneko, an elusive endemic lynx.
Full Dog Mushing
Scenic Flights
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.
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