Cambodia

From Vietnam onwards, Cambodia's crumbling roads and minefields take us back to the years of Khmer Rouge terror. We survive and are rewarded with the vision of the greatest religious temple

Ho Chi Minh a of Angkor, Cambodia

The Crooked Path to Angkor

From Vietnam onwards, Cambodia's crumbling roads and minefields take us back to the years of Khmer Rouge terror. We survive and are rewarded with the vision of the greatest religious temple

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INTERNAL FLIGHTS

Cambodia is served by several airlines, at least in recent years, with a short life. THE Cambodia Angkor Air ensures the most valuable tourist route in the country: Phnom Penh – Siem Reap with several daily flights costing around €60 one way, €95 round trip.

TRUCK

Even after a long period of restoration and construction after the destructive Khmer Rouge era, Cambodia's roads still leave much to be desired, many of them at least partially rutted dirt and, depending on the time of year, dusty or muddy. If you insist on not suffering on tortuous and quite dangerous journeys, make an effort to buy tickets on the most modern buses. At the time of writing this text, I had more chances with the companies Mekong Express and Sorya. The most traveled routes are from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Battambang, Sihanoukville, Kompong Cham, Kratie and Poipet. Tickets from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and Sihanoukville cost €5 or even less.

Alternative hypotheses are the shared minibuses and taxis that tend to cluster around city markets. There are no road transport networks in Cambodia.

CAR RENTAL

It is extremely accessible in Cambodia and, assuming it will overcome the poor quality of some roads and the permanent danger posed by Khmer drivers, a solution that gives you complete freedom. Due to the advertised disadvantages, many visitors choose to hire a rental car service with a driver because it is the solution most often offered by both individuals and companies.

SHIP

The most famous river route runs from Phnom Penh to Lake Tonlé Sap in less than 6 hours (and from there to Siem Reap and the temple complex at Angkor). In high season, the fast boats that ensure it are almost always overcrowded and foreigners are allowed to go on the roof in the fresh air (not such a good idea if the sky threatens rain) for twice as much as Khmer passengers pay around €25. Some luxury boats with cabins and restaurants on board make the same route from Ho Chi Minh (Southern Vietnam) above Mekong.

In addition to this route, Cambodia has almost 2.000km of river beds, the most notorious being the Mekong. Other convenient services allow travelers to travel from Siem Reap to Battambang and, by fast boat, from Sihanoukville to Krong Koh Kong and that way to Thailand.

When to go

Cambodia has three distinct climatic seasons. December and January are the coolest months with less humidity and rain. From January onwards, both humidity and temperature gradually increase until, around April, temperatures often exceed 40°C. In May and June, the Southwest Asian monsoon takes over Cambodia and lasts until mid-October almost always in the form of strong but rapid showers, most likely in the late afternoon.

In summary, unless you enjoy torrid heat, avoid March, April and even May. Go from June to the end of November, not minding the probable precipitation and favoring the beauty of the scenery made verdant – or, take note, possibly flooded – by the rains.

Money and costs

Cambodia's currency is the Riel (KHR). In recent years, ATMs have spread even outside the largest cities. They allow withdrawals of US dollars using the most famous international cards: Maestro, Cirrus, Plus, VISA.

ACCOMMODATION

There are guest houses family or the like for all minimally touristic places in Cambodia. A vivid image of ubiquity emerges at the exit of the fast boat connecting Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, when dozens of representatives emerge to pick up passengers who have made advance reservations or convince those who arrive unprepared to follow them.

Expect to pay in this type of accommodation from €4 to €7 per double room per night without hot water, towels or air conditioning included. For a double room with air conditioning, hot water, towels and better conditions in general, aim for €7 to €25 per night. In one of the intermediate (3 or 4 star) chain hotels the price rises to €70 to €120 per night and in one of the finest resorts in Siem Reap, just outside Angkor, expect to pay double or triple.

FOOD

In terms of fame, Cambodian food is miles from Thai, which is not to say that it won't surprise you very positively. At least outside the touristic Siem Reap, it is expected that you will find market snacks for a mere €0,50 and in simpler restaurants, a full meal starts at €2. If you choose one of the Khmer, other Asian cuisine or sophisticated international restaurants, expect to pay from €10 to €15, which turns into €40 to €60 if you are within the most luxurious resorts in Siem Reap.

INTERNET

Wi-fi networks are increasingly popular and appear all over the place, not only in guest houses, hotels and resorts, but also in bars and restaurants. At the same time, internet cafes are also booming, still with very merciful prices for foreign users, from €0,30 to €0,60 per hour of browsing.

SIM cards can cost less than €1. Pens (USB sticks) and modems purchased from €12 to €25 allow access to 3G/4G in Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville and other larger cities. In other locations further away from urban areas, the speeds can prove hopeless.

How to go

VISA AND OTHER PROCEDURES

Portuguese citizens and citizens from almost all over the world need a visa. The visa costs around €20 for a 30-day tourist stay in the country and can be obtained upon entry as long as you have a passport valid for 6 months after leaving Cambodia. It can also be obtained as e-Visa at Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation

HEALTH CARE

The risk of contracting malaria exists in the forest and rural areas of the country except in Phnom Penh and in the vicinity of Lake Tonlé Sap. In the jungle area of Angkor Wat it is minimal.

For more information on traveling health, see the Health Portal of the Ministry of Health and Tropical and Traveler Medicine Clinic. In FitForTravel find country-specific health and disease prevention advice (in English).

TRIP TO CAMBODIA

A Qatar Airways fly to Phnom Penh with a single stopover in Doha for from €750. Another practical way to get to the Cambodian capital is to fly via Bangkok.