Annapurna Circuit 11th: yak karkha a Thorong Phedi, Nepal

Arrival to the Foot of the Canyon

Entrance of Thorong Phedi
The access portico to the lower area of ​​Thorong Phedi.
yaks in the sun
The Himalayan cattle thaw in the morning sun.
Terms used by the Safe Drinking Water Station to provide hot water to hikers.
Meanders of the Rail and the River
Jharsong Khola river valley, with the Annapurnas in the background.
Couple at Tea House Deaurli, already within walking distance of Thorong Phedi.
tea lady
Owner of a tea house between Yak Kharka and Thorong Phedi, along with family photos.
Old Fashioned Posts
Notes and Information posted at the entrance of the New Phedi Hotel.
Danger of Downfall
Sign warns of risk in one of the most dangerous areas of the trail between Yak Kharka and Thorong Phedi.
old woman in the sun
She lives in a village outside Yak Kharka.
Yak destination
A yak's head serves as an amulet over a newly built house.
In just over 6km, we climbed from 4018m to 4450m, at the base of Thorong La canyon. Along the way, we questioned if what we felt were the first problems of Altitude Evil. It was never more than a false alarm.

We had gone to bed at eight at night. We woke up around seven in the morning.

There were eleven hours of invigorating sleep more than deserved and that came with another blessing. Despite his drunken rant from the night before, Don was already on foot. Everything indicated that he was in a position to follow.

During breakfast, we realized that we were going to continue alone. Tatiana, one of the two German girls, and Cris, one of the two Brazilian boys, were not feeling well.

The rest of the group decided to stay one more day in yak karkha, to see if the symptoms of mountain sickness they attenuated.

We still contemplated staying, out of solidarity and love for the group, but we had already dragged ourselves an exaggerated amount of time in Pokhara, preparing the walk.

In addition to that we felt in perfect condition, eager to conquer the Thorong La gorge, to continue, in tranquility, on the other side.

In agreement, after breakfast, when we noticed the group's deliberation in the sun, we said goodbye.

Without major dramas or ceremonies, concerned with transmitting confidence that everyone would resume walking the next morning and that, as had happened before, we would meet again later on.

Then, we inaugurated the route of almost 7km, with an elevation of 400m.

On the way to Thorong Phedi

We pass a small herd of yaks that contribute to the meaning of Yak Karkha, a term translatable to yak corral.

We see their sharply defined silhouettes against the snowy mountains of the annapurnas.

On our right, the large Chulu West (6419m), one of the high mountains, but conquerable without any technical requirements.

We reach Churi Ledar (4200m) and its teahouses.

When we entered the first one, we found Don in a pleasant chat with the owner, familiar with whom he had not contacted for a long time.

We stopped. we drink one milk tea. We talked a little with the two, took some pictures of both and with both.

We go on, just us. Don tells us he would be chatting with the lady, that he would pick us up. By that time, we had no reason to doubt.

Another Safe Water Station

Shortly thereafter, we came to one of the “Safe Drinking Water Station” of the circuit.

A young Nepalese woman welcomes us.

From what we saw through the window that framed it, the interior of the establishment had an unexpected Nepalese charm.

It was made of yellowed wood, filled with shelves lined with acrylics or colored paper where a panoply of terms and kitchen utensils were kept.

We spent a little time with the ladies, who were already used to the passage and curiosity of foreigners, even the more meddlesome, like us.

We said goodbye, replenished with fresh water, prepared for the steep ups and downs and meanders, deepened by the Jharsong Kola River, which were to come.

Two Bridges over the Jharsong Kola. an indecision

At a certain point, from a height, we see the rail fork. Continue towards a suspension bridge above the stream. And by another branch, more sinuous and deeper, that crossed the river by a wooden bridge.

With no signs to advise us, we opted for the last one that would allow us, photographing hikers crossing the suspension bridge, with the mountains in the background.

We almost regret it. The lower rail reveals a loose, slippery pebbled surface.

The care it demands of us quickly irritates us, apart from the fact that, for some as-yet-unknown reason or perhaps just because the newcomers imitated the option of previous hikers, no one wanted to cross the suspension bridge.

Luckily, for good physical condition, these were almost our problems.

The First and Unexpected Symptoms of Feeling Unwell

After crossing the river, we started to feel a slight dizziness, which we had never felt before. We also still had fuller bellies than usual and supposed, with porridge and fruit, a mistake that in the morning we forgot to avoid.

As the altitude increased, the oxygen that the blood carried to the brain diminished. The unfinished digestions aggravated the dizziness.

We believe in the least harmful reason, attentive to the hardships of other hikers we passed.

Mountain evil had already toppled them, held their companions back from them, frustrated, submissive to the duty of taking them back to lower lands.

It wasn't the first case. Nor would it be the last.

As we feared, we have a different anxiety. We arrived at the top on the other side of the river, at the entrance of another teahouse.

In addition to tea and a range of snacks and products, “Deaurli” offered hikers a structure of stone benches with a panoramic view over the zigzags of Jharsong Kola, the trail we had taken to get there and the vastness around it.

We saw all this and the annapurnas above.

What we didn't see was Don's sign nowhere on the trail. The “I'll catch you” that he had answered when we left him was far from being fulfilled.

Don's Exaggerated Disappearance

while serving us new milk tea, the owners of Deaurli realize we're upset, but they think it's because of some friend who felt bad.

When we show them the reason, they open up a strange explanation that reveals the ethnic rivalry in which Nepal and that highland of the Annapurnas, in particular, live.

We are told that Don must have been of a certain ethnicity that was not native to the area but that he moved more and more there, in search of money from the tractors.

They add that this ethnic group lacked a sense of responsibility and that, almost whenever there were problems with the Nepalese, it was their fault.

We had no idea what ethnicity Don belonged to. The drunkenness of the night before had left us with the idea that it could get us into trouble at any moment.

We waited almost an hour at the panoramic point, much longer than we needed to recover from the climb and drink the tea.

At the end of that time, finally, we see a red dot, in the distance, approaching. Minutes later, we identified Don's coat.

We noticed that the charger was almost running.

When he climbs up the hill and arrives at us, the owners of Deaurli, charismatic figures from those parts, give him a slight that doesn't need any complement on our part.

Don apologizes to us. He promises he wouldn't be late again like that.

Just drink water. Get ahead of us.

The Ultimate Treacherous Slope

A Nepalese knight we've already spoken to in Yak Karkha, in a fur cap and dark glasses, appears, greets us and gives us some advice. “the trail, from here to Pedi, is the most dangerous.

There is a risk of landslides and, if cattle are grazing on the top, they can take it with smaller stones”.

We appreciate the warnings. With no alternative, we face the risk. On Don's heels.

Tens of meters ahead, a sign with the inscription "Landslide Area, Step Gently”, confirms the warning.

The trail furrows the slope above the river, in a narrow V valley, with loose earth on both sides, littered with boulders that had already slipped and, over time, caused victims.

We proceed in a silent speed mode, never stopping. It took us almost twenty minutes to get out of the risk zone, to the left of Jharsong Kola.

When we did, we ran into Thorong Pedi's reward.

The Solar Entrance to Thorong Pedi

The village appears to us walled, with an entrance portico that identified Thorong Base Camp.

As opposed to High camp, complemented with other promotional signs, from “fresh bakery","real coffee” and, of course, “Apple Pie".

Hasty walkers opted to stretch the rope.

They progressed straight to High Camp. The climb was only 1km. At that distance, it ascended 400 meters.

It was one of the steepest on the Circuit.

Still waiting to make sure that the dizziness and headache were due to the heavy breakfast, we were in doubt.

In order to avoid the overcrowded hotels, we went up to 4540m, the top of the village.

We entered a certain New Phedi. We took a look at the facilities and sat down in the heated room, looking forward to a rest and a real meal.

We were choosing the table when we met Sara and Manel, a couple from Porto that, without knowing who they were or where they came from, we had already seen out of Manang.

We sit with them, we chatter. We talked about everything all afternoon.

In that time, the room was filled with newly arrived walkers.

The End of Day Blizzard that Whitens the Mountains

The weather had changed.

A windy blizzard covered the Jharsong Kola valley in white. Those who arrived came in, tired and cold. He was looking for a spot next to the salamanders that heated the room, from a certain point onwards, in vain.

If, at first, we, as well as Sara and Manel, were hesitating as to whether we should go up to High Camp soon, the sudden bad weather decided for us.

At 20 pm, with the Nepalese employees from New Phedi turning off the salamanders, we go to bed.

The plan was to wake up at three in the morning and see what the weather was like. If the snow had stopped, if the sky was clear, we would go up.

At least until High Camp.

Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Annapurna Circuit: 2th - Chame a Upper BananaNepal

(I) Eminent Annapurnas

We woke up in Chame, still below 3000m. There we saw, for the first time, the snowy and highest peaks of the Himalayas. From there, we set off for another walk along the Annapurna Circuit through the foothills and slopes of the great mountain range. towards Upper Banana.
Annapurna Circuit: 3rd- Upper Banana, Nepal

An Unexpected Snowy Aurora

At the first glimmers of light, the sight of the white mantle that had covered the village during the night dazzles us. With one of the toughest walks on the Annapurna Circuit ahead of us, we postponed the match as much as possible. Annoyed, we left Upper Pisang towards Escort when the last snow faded.
Annapurna Circuit: 4th – Upper Banana to Ngawal, Nepal

From Nightmare to Dazzle

Unbeknownst to us, we are faced with an ascent that leads us to despair. We pulled our strength as far as possible and reached Ghyaru where we felt closer than ever to the Annapurnas. The rest of the way to Ngawal felt like a kind of extension of the reward.
Annapurna Circuit: 5th - Ngawal a BragaNepal

Towards the Nepalese Braga

We spent another morning of glorious weather discovering Ngawal. There is a short journey towards Manang, the main town on the way to the zenith of the Annapurna circuit. We stayed for Braga (Braka). The hamlet would soon prove to be one of its most unforgettable places.
Annapurna Circuit: 6th – Braga, Nepal

The Ancient Nepal of Braga

Four days of walking later, we slept at 3.519 meters from Braga (Braka). Upon arrival, only the name is familiar to us. Faced with the mystical charm of the town, arranged around one of the oldest and most revered Buddhist monasteries on the Annapurna circuit, we continued our journey there. acclimatization with ascent to Ice Lake (4620m).
Annapurna Circuit: 7th - Braga - Ice Lake, Nepal

Annapurna Circuit - The Painful Acclimatization of Ice Lake

On the way up to the Ghyaru village, we had a first and unexpected show of how ecstatic the Annapurna Circuit can be tasted. Nine kilometers later, in Braga, due to the need to acclimatize, we climbed from 3.470m from Braga to 4.600m from Lake Kicho Tal. We only felt some expected tiredness and the increase in the wonder of the Annapurna Mountains.
Annapurna Circuit: 9th Manang to Milarepa Cave, Nepal

A Walk between Acclimatization and Pilgrimage

In full Annapurna Circuit, we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). we still need acclimatize to the higher stretches that followed, we inaugurated an equally spiritual journey to a Nepalese cave of Milarepa (4000m), the refuge of a siddha (sage) and Buddhist saint.
Annapurna Circuit: 8th Manang, Nepal

Manang: the Last Acclimatization in Civilization

Six days after leaving Besisahar we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). Located at the foot of the Annapurna III and Gangapurna Mountains, Manang is the civilization that pampers and prepares hikers for the ever-dreaded crossing of Thorong La Gorge (5416 m).
Annapurna 10th Circuit: Manang to Yak Kharka, Nepal

On the way to the Annapurnas Even Higher Lands

After an acclimatization break in the near-urban civilization of Manang (3519 m), we made progress again in the ascent to the zenith of Thorong La (5416 m). On that day, we reached the hamlet of Yak Kharka, at 4018 m, a good starting point for the camps at the base of the great canyon.
Bhaktapur, Nepal

The Nepalese Masks of Life

The Newar Indigenous People of the Kathmandu Valley attach great importance to the Hindu and Buddhist religiosity that unites them with each other and with the Earth. Accordingly, he blesses their rites of passage with newar dances of men masked as deities. Even if repeated long ago from birth to reincarnation, these ancestral dances do not elude modernity and begin to see an end.
Rhinoceros, PN Kaziranga, Assam, India
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
Muktinath to Kagbeni, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Kagbeni
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit 14th - Muktinath to Kagbeni, Nepal

On the Other Side of the Pass

After the demanding crossing of Thorong La, we recover in the cozy village of Muktinath. The next morning we proceed back to lower altitudes. On the way to the ancient kingdom of Upper Mustang and the village of Kagbeni that serves as its gateway.
Sirocco, Arabia, Helsinki
Architecture & Design
Helsinki, Finland

The Design that Came from the Cold

With much of the territory above the Arctic Circle, Finns respond to the climate with efficient solutions and an obsession with art, aesthetics and modernism inspired by neighboring Scandinavia.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.
Ceremonies and Festivities
Pentecost Island, Vanuatu

Naghol: Bungee Jumping without Modern Touches

At Pentecost, in their late teens, young people launch themselves from a tower with only lianas tied to their ankles. Bungee cords and harnesses are inappropriate fussiness from initiation to adulthood.
View of Serra do Cume, Terceira Island, Unique Azores
Terceira Island, Azores

Terceira Island: Journey through a Unique Archipelago of the Azores

It was called the Island of Jesus Christ and has radiated, for a long time, the cult of the Holy Spirit. It houses Angra do Heroísmo, the oldest and most splendid city in the archipelago. These are just two examples. The attributes that make Terceira island unique are endless.
World Food

Gastronomy Without Borders or Prejudice

Each people, their recipes and delicacies. In certain cases, the same ones that delight entire nations repel many others. For those who travel the world, the most important ingredient is a very open mind.
Jok​ülsárlón Lagoon, Iceland

The Chant and the Ice

Created by water from the Arctic Ocean and the melting of Europe's largest glacier, Jokülsárlón forms a frigid and imposing domain. Icelanders revere her and pay her surprising tributes.

Man: an Ever Tested Species

It's in our genes. For the pleasure of participating, for titles, honor or money, competitions give meaning to the world. Some are more eccentric than others.
Boat and helmsman, Cayo Los Pájaros, Los Haitises, Dominican Republic
Samaná PeninsulaLos Haitises National Park Dominican Republic

From the Samaná Peninsula to the Dominican Haitises

In the northeast corner of the Dominican Republic, where Caribbean nature still triumphs, we face an Atlantic much more vigorous than expected in these parts. There we ride on a communal basis to the famous Limón waterfall, cross the bay of Samaná and penetrate the remote and exuberant “land of the mountains” that encloses it.
Bride gets in car, traditional wedding, Meiji temple, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo, Japan

A Matchmaking Sanctuary

Tokyo's Meiji Temple was erected to honor the deified spirits of one of the most influential couples in Japanese history. Over time, it specialized in celebrating traditional weddings.
Sunset, Avenue of Baobabs, Madagascar
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio

days like so many others

Salto Negao, chapada diamantina, bahia gema, brazil
Chapada Diamantina, Brazil

Gem-stone Bahia

Until the end of the century. In the XNUMXth century, Chapada Diamantina was a land of immeasurable prospecting and ambitions. Now that diamonds are rare, outsiders are eager to discover its plateaus and underground galleries
Victoria, capital, Seychelles islands, Mahé, Capital Life
Victoria, Mahé, Seychelles

From Francophone “Establishment” to the Creole Capital of Seychelles

The French populated their “Etablissement” with European, African and Indian settlers. Two centuries later, British rivals took over the archipelago and renamed the city in honor of their Queen Victoria. When we visit it, the Seychelles capital remains as multiethnic as it is tiny.
St. Trinity Church, Kazbegi, Georgia, Caucasus
Winter White
Kazbegi, Georgia

God in the Caucasus Heights

In the 4000th century, Orthodox religious took their inspiration from a hermitage that a monk had erected at an altitude of 5047 m and perched a church between the summit of Mount Kazbek (XNUMXm) and the village at the foot. More and more visitors flock to these mystical stops on the edge of Russia. Like them, to get there, we submit to the whims of the reckless Georgia Military Road.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Enriquillo, Great Lake of the Antilles, Dominican Republic, view from Cueva das Caritas de Taínos
Lake Enriquillo, Dominican Republic

Enriquillo: the Great Lake of the Antilles

Between 300 and 400 km2, situated 44 meters below sea level, Enriquillo is the supreme lake of the Antilles. Regardless of its hypersalinity and the stifling, atrocious temperatures, it's still increasing. Scientists have a hard time explaining why.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Salto Angel, Rio that falls from the sky, Angel Falls, PN Canaima, Venezuela
Natural Parks
PN Canaima, Venezuela

Kerepakupai, Salto Angel: The River that Falls from Heaven

In 1937, Jimmy Angel landed a light aircraft on a plateau lost in the Venezuelan jungle. The American adventurer did not find gold but he conquered the baptism of the longest waterfall on the face of the Earth
Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
UNESCO World Heritage
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

On the eminence of the coast of Mozambique, the province of KwaZulu-Natal is home to an unexpected South Africa. Deserted beaches full of dunes, vast estuarine swamps and hills covered with fog fill this wild land also bathed by the Indian Ocean. It is shared by the subjects of the always proud Zulu nation and one of the most prolific and diverse fauna on the African continent.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
La Digue, Seychelles, Anse d'Argent
La Digue, Seychelles

Monumental Tropical Granite

Beaches hidden by lush jungle, made of coral sand washed by a turquoise-emerald sea are anything but rare in the Indian Ocean. La Digue recreated itself. Around its coastline, massive boulders sprout that erosion has carved as an eccentric and solid tribute of time to the Nature.
Burning prayers, Ohitaki Festival, fushimi temple, kyoto, japan
Kyoto, Japan

A Combustible Faith

During the Shinto celebration of Ohitaki, prayers inscribed on tablets by the Japanese faithful are gathered at the Fushimi temple. There, while being consumed by huge bonfires, her belief is renewed.
Train Fianarantsoa to Manakara, Malagasy TGV, locomotive
On Rails
Fianarantsoa-Manakara, Madagascar

On board the Malagasy TGV

We depart Fianarantsoa at 7a.m. It wasn't until 3am the following morning that we completed the 170km to Manakara. The natives call this almost secular train Train Great Vibrations. During the long journey, we felt, very strongly, those of the heart of Madagascar.
Sentosa Island, Singapore, Family on Sentosa Artificial Beach
Sentosa, Singapore

Singapore's Fun Island

It was a stronghold where the Japanese murdered Allied prisoners and welcomed troops who pursued Indonesian saboteurs. Today, the island of Sentosa fights the monotony that gripped the country.
Saksun, Faroe Islands, Streymoy, warning
Daily life
Saksun, streymoyFaroe Islands

The Faroese Village That Doesn't Want to be Disneyland

Saksun is one of several stunning small villages in the Faroe Islands that more and more outsiders visit. It is distinguished by the aversion to tourists of its main rural owner, author of repeated antipathies and attacks against the invaders of his land.
Crocodiles, Queensland Tropical Australia Wild
Cairns to Cape Tribulation, Australia

Tropical Queensland: An Australia Too Wild

Cyclones and floods are just the meteorological expression of Queensland's tropical harshness. When it's not the weather, it's the deadly fauna of the region that keeps its inhabitants on their toes.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.