Miami, USA

A Masterpiece of Urban Rehabilitation

by the shadow
Visitor walks along a garden path to the Wynwood Walls, similarly decorated by suggestive murals.
Guilty ?
Miami visitor couple about to impersonate a criminal Andrew Warhol by Canadian Elisabetta Fantone.
mystery woman
Interior decoration of the "Wynwood Restaurant and Bar" by Shepard Fairey
Welcome to:
The portico of the Wynwood Walls dreamed of by Tony Goldman.
The Mr.
Graffiti of a character from the big city of Florida on a Wynwood wall.
between the fingers
Wynwood Walls visitor is photographed as part of the work of one of the artists invited by Tony Goldman to bring the Wynwood Walls to life.
A face of Vhils
One figure lends some contrast to the work Vhils maintains at Wynwood Walls.
rainbow face
Boy waits and seems to silence another of the works by artists chosen by Tony Goldman.
In our times…
Two senior visitors rest and chat under a decor of old fans.
a certain dislike
Another visitor who, through photography, integrates into the dark and surreal work of Logan Hicks.
solitary walk
Passerby walks through a huge mural of a normal Wynwood street, external to Wynwood Walls, therefore.
Blackness vs Walls
Even the night does not carry the strong colors of the works of Wynwood Walls.
the old Wynwood
Taxi passes by one of the oldest buildings in Miami's now hyper-appreciated neighborhood
spray art
Davel, a Wynwood native graffiti artist who witnessed much of the neighborhood's transformation.
Home Expo
Nook of a large decorating studio part of Wynwood Walls
sacred break
Wynwood Restaurant and Bar employees between its large terrace and a wall full of posters.
4 afro style
Group of friends talks supported by the large mural by Shepard Fairey.
At the turn of the 25st century, the Wynwood neighbourhood remained filled with abandoned factories and warehouses and graffiti. Tony Goldman, a shrewd real estate investor, bought more than XNUMX properties and founded a mural park. Much more than honoring graffiti there, Goldman founded the Wynwood Arts District, the great bastion of creativity in Miami.

Finally, we managed to park in a park at a height that we abandoned in a hurry, stimulated by the return to the summer caress. In mid-winter in the Northern Hemisphere, a gentle but generous sun continued to catch the Florida and Wynwood neighborhood we were looking for.

The surrounding streets of Edgewater, scoured in Anglo-Saxon fashion, exhibit a fascinating work-recreational atmosphere, walked by comfortable executives in shirt-short uniforms crossing with cyclists, skaters and many customers from nearby gyms that we identify by the Lycras, breathable t-shirts and sneakers, all from the best brands and the latest generation.

From its middle class and upwards, Miami is not short of money for a long time. The Bentleys, Mustangs, BMW Z3, ​​Porsche Cayennes and the like that circulate there indicate that this prosperity is about to last.

It is from that stronghold on the edge of the Caribbean Sea and north of Downtown Miami that we point to Wynwood, to the west. Over the years, Wynwood has subdivided. It has an Art District that occupies several axes and a Fashion District concentrated along West 5th Avenue.

The Humble Origins of the Wynwood Neighborhood

From 1950 onwards, the Wynwood neighborhood was known as “El Barrio” or “Little San Juan”. It was just one of so many housing nuclei generated by immigrants with the same geographic and ethnic origin that made up Miami. Like “El Barrio”, “Little Haiti” coexisted, “Little Havana”, “Little Jamaica”, “Little Brazil” and even “Little Moscow”, among others.

The new Puerto Rican scene of “Little San Juan” preceded the much more famous today “Little Havana” in nearly ten years. After the end of World War II, former Anglo-Saxon residents of the working middle class flocked to surrounding neighborhoods where they could live in better conditions.

Puerto Ricans occupied their space but benefited neither from previous factory jobs nor from collateral advantages. Even so, little by little, there proliferated restaurants, markets, shops and other businesses owned by the residents themselves.

The Mr., graffiti by Wynwood, Miami

Graffiti of a character from the big city of Florida on a Wynwood wall.

Over time, the Wynwood neighborhood diversified. It welcomed blacks of different origins, Cubans, Haitians, Colombians, Dominicans. In the late 70s, it was no longer “Little San Juan”. Neither harmonious nor prosperous. He had regressed to a low-class multiethnic Wynwood. Half of its nearly 20.000 inhabitants remained unemployed.

Drug trafficking has spread like an epidemic. Insecurity and crime have undermined well-being, as it does in Miami's most deprived areas.

From the 70s until 1987, little happened in Wynwood worth noting except that a large bread factory that was there, no one quite knew why its building vacated. By that time, a faction of one such South Florida Art Center was leaving Coconut Grove due to rising rents.

The Pioneer Art Building

Some of its artists formed a non-profit organization and bought it. In 1987, they opened it for new purposes. Named Bakehouse, it had almost 9.000 m2. It was Florida's largest art workspace. Today, the Bakehouse Art Complex remains operational in the same old factory that fostered the incredible creative movement that would come to be formed.

From so much walking, we see the absolute contrast of the depressed 70s and 80s of the Wynwood neighborhood. In the heart of the Miami Design District, the Palm Court was built with the lightness and subtlety of bluish acrylic that combines with the green of fifty palm trees of different species.

The space's communication agency proudly communicates that among them “the spinosa coccothrinax and heterospathe elata around an iconic geodesic cathedral designed by renowned architect and inventor, Buckminster Fuller.”

Overshadowed by so much pomp, we have one thing for sure: apart from the palm trees with thin trunks and elegant foliage, that inner square was lined with works of art, installations and, of course, some of the most expensive stores on the planet. We leave it only and only with visual and photographic memories.

Wynwood Walls: The Creative Core of the District

When we walk down a street outside, heading into Wynwood's graffiti core, we are pretty sure that it is former Italian football player Gianluca Vialli who is sitting reading a catalog inside a furniture workshop. We continue with this conviction.

Studio after studio, hipster den after hipster den, we arrive at the Wynwood Walls portico and the most popular spot in the Wynwood neighborhood. After the initial stimulus of the Bakehouse, it was the sprays of street artists eager to show off their talent that lent more color to the neighborhood.

Wynwood Walls in Wynwood, Miami, United States of America

The portico of the Wynwood Walls dreamed of by Tony Goldman.

For decades, illegal and even persecuted, its action ended up being sacralized. The Wynwood Walls are the temple that thousands of art followers visit, some from the surrounding area, others, like us, from across the ocean and the world.

Miami seems to recognize the pivotal role of one man in particular in transforming the Wynwood neighborhood overnight. Tony Goldman was a multi-million dollar real estate investor who had been behind the recovery of SoHo and Miami's South Beach.

Work installed in the Walls of Wynwood, Miami, United States of America

Boy waits and seems to silence another of the works by artists chosen by Tony Goldman.

Tony Goldman: The Wynwood Mentor and Investor

Now, when it came to neighborhoods, Goldman always had the gift of seeing gold where others could only find garbage. With Wynwood, history repeated itself. The investor and two of his children began buying parts of Wynwood's warehouse district.

Instead of tearing down the old structures, they gave them new life with wise restorations of the properties and, at the same time, in art that valued them. In 2009, they opened an open-air gallery that allowed graffiti artists and other artists to display their paintings on murals.

They made the opening of this gallery, Wynwood Walls, coincide with the renowned Art Basel of Miami. This option gave the new gallery an enormous media coverage.

Wynwood Wall, Miami, United States of America

A passerby walks through a huge mural on a regular street in the Wynwood neighborhood, outside Wynwood Walls,

Tony Goldman's Urbanizing Determination

Enthusiastic, Tony Goldman projected much more for his then-favorite neighborhood of Miami. In his view, every Wynwood should be promoted to an exhibition of urban street art. Reality exceeded expectations even in terms of real estate. From a cemetery to abandoned warehouses and factories, Wynwood now has some of Florida's most valuable square feet.

It all started, however, in the open air, on the Walls. With the sun almost out of its nominative portico, we hurried inside.

A path of flagstones leads us through a lawn with a synthetic shine, between the successive garish, imaginative, almost always surreal murals that make up the gallery.

Before he died in 2012, at 68 years old, the Walls mentor brought together renowned or at least promising names from the world panorama of urban art: the Japanese Aiko, the Chilean Inti, Avaf, PHASE 2, the Brazilian Gémeos, an armada of New Yorkers, especially from Brooklyn, and Portuguese Alexandre Farto, better known as Vhils, but so many others.

Works for Every Taste, including by Vhils

Between the Walls, far from intellectualoid, the atmosphere is one of Sunday fun. Groups of friends, families and lovers start by contemplating the graffiti and paintings by these street artists with some thought and intellectual debate. This approach lasts what it lasts. In a flash, it is replaced by countless selfies or group photos taken with the works in the background.

Much less polychromatic and eccentric than the rest, Vhils' work can be observed less, but it seems to deserve a more curious interest from those who confront it. True to his line, instead of just graffiti or painting – as happens with most of the authors of the works around him – Vhils paints his mural.

Work by Vhils in Wynwood, Miami, United States of America

One figure lends some contrast to the work Vhils maintains at Wynwood Walls.

Then he digs it out, bleaches it with acids, drills it with small pneumatic hammers. Work the details with hammer, chisels and the like, of different dimensions. And as Vhils himself sums up in his gallery profile: “he values ​​ordinary people in icons, many of his images are based on photos of people he takes from magazines, from Sebastião Salgado's work, or from his own camera.”

Other works, evident in the murals, doors and gardens of Wynwood Walls, evoke different sensations. Logan Hicks' panoramic mural transports us to an urban coolness worthy of a contemporary Blade Runner, or some mysterious pre-dawn Brooklyn. The alleged minds of the “working children” of the Chilean Inti seem to penetrate the minds of those who focus on them.

Even the bars and restaurants that serve the Walls – notably the Wynwood Restaurant and Bar – are decorated with works of unbelievable creativity. The logo and interior walls of this pinecone landing are by Shepard Fairey, immortalized by his reddish-blue “Hope” poster that displays the face of Barak Obama.

The Scanned and Graffiti Streets Around

We leave the walled interior of Wynwood Walls, through a kind of tunnel painted green, with a composition of old wall fans and a long wooden bench. In it, under the fans, rest and chatter two old men in hats that so much modernity seems to have exhausted.

We left for NW 26th Street and immediately gave priority to a group of skaters more hip than the neighborhood itself. We crossed the street. On the other side, we come across a mural by the multifaceted (actress, painter, model, author) Canadian Elisabetta Fantone.

In it, Andy Warhol appears as Andrew Warhola, a prisoner for crimes against art. Wearing an orange uniform, Warhol is forced to hold a sign of his offense describing this. We had fun photographing what used to be one of the most daring walls in the neighbourhood.

Andrew Warhol(a) criminal by Elisabetta Fantone, Wynwood, Miami, United States of America

Miami visitor couple about to impersonate a criminal Andrew Warhol by Canadian Elisabetta Fantone.

Davel and the Privilege to Live in Wynwood

And to add ourselves to the composition of the most comical forms possible. So, a graffiti artist who colored the adjoining wall takes advantage of the pretext and starts a conversation. Despite looking like a kid on a BMX bike, Davel was already in his thirties. We were talking for a good twenty minutes.

It was more than enough for us to realize how much he had benefited from the tree of Wynwood but, at the same time, contributed to it. “I've lived in this area since shortly after I was born. Before, walking these same streets at night was an adventure.

Davel graffiti native to Miami, Wynwood, USA

Davel, a Wynwood native graffiti artist who witnessed much of the neighborhood's transformation.

It is now one of the most expensive neighborhoods in Miami. It's amazing what power art can have, isn't it? And, by the way, how about my work? Like?" We step back so that we can interpret it and brag about the gaudy eccentricity of its completely crazy abstraction.

We exchange contacts. We also promised that we would get a glimpse of more of your talent online. Sunset was already overshadowing Wynwood's art and the day in general. It was time to resort to the festive reception of the bars inside the Walls.



TAP has daily flights from Lisbon to Miami, departing at 10:50 am and arriving in Miami at 15:15

Key West, USA

The Tropical Wild West of the USA

We've come to the end of the Overseas Highway and the ultimate stronghold of propagandism Florida Keys. The continental United States here they surrender to a dazzling turquoise emerald marine vastness. And to a southern reverie fueled by a kind of Caribbean spell.
Florida Keys, USA

The Caribbean Stepping Stone of the USA

Os United States continental islands seem to close to the south in its capricious peninsula of Florida. Don't stop there. More than a hundred islands of coral, sand and mangroves form an eccentric tropical expanse that has long seduced American vacationers.
Miami beach, USA

The Beach of All Vanities

Few coastlines concentrate, at the same time, so much heat and displays of fame, wealth and glory. Located in the far southeast of the USA, Miami Beach is accessed by six bridges that connect it to the rest of Florida. It is manifestly meager for the number of souls who desire it.
Little Havana, USA

Little Havana of the Nonconformists

Over the decades and until today, thousands of Cubans have crossed the Florida Straits in search of the land of freedom and opportunity. With the US a mere 145 km away, many have gone no further. His Little Havana in Miami is today the most emblematic neighborhood of the Cuban diaspora.
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Kyoto, Japan

Survival: The Last Geisha Art

There have been almost 100 but times have changed and geishas are on the brink of extinction. Today, the few that remain are forced to give in to Japan's less subtle and elegant modernity.
Lion, Elephants, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe
PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.
Braga or Braka or Brakra in Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 6th – Braga, Nepal

The Ancient Nepal of Braga

Four days of walking later, we slept at 3.519 meters from Braga (Braka). Upon arrival, only the name is familiar to us. Faced with the mystical charm of the town, arranged around one of the oldest and most revered Buddhist monasteries on the Annapurna circuit, we continued our journey there. acclimatization with ascent to Ice Lake (4620m).
Itamaraty Palace Staircase, Brasilia, Utopia, Brazil
Architecture & Design
Brasilia, Brazil

Brasília: from Utopia to the Capital and Political Arena of Brazil

Since the days of the Marquis of Pombal, there has been talk of transferring the capital to the interior. Today, the chimera city continues to look surreal but dictates the rules of Brazilian development.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
Christmas scene, Shillong, Meghalaya, India
Ceremonies and Festivities
Shillong, India

A Christmas Selfiestan at an India Christian Stronghold

December arrives. With a largely Christian population, the state of Meghalaya synchronizes its Nativity with that of the West and clashes with the overcrowded Hindu and Muslim subcontinent. Shillong, the capital, shines with faith, happiness, jingle bells and bright lighting. To dazzle Indian holidaymakers from other parts and creeds.
Melbourne, Australia

An "Asienated" Australia

Cultural capital aussie, Melbourne is also frequently voted the best quality of life city in the world. Nearly a million eastern emigrants took advantage of this immaculate welcome.
Tsukiji fish market, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo, Japan

The Fish Market That Lost its Freshness

In a year, each Japanese eats more than their weight in fish and shellfish. Since 1935, a considerable part was processed and sold in the largest fish market in the world. Tsukiji was terminated in October 2018, and replaced by Toyosu's.
Lhasa, Tibet

When Buddhism Tires of Meditation

It is not only with silence and spiritual retreat that one seeks Nirvana. At the Sera Monastery, the young monks perfect their Buddhist knowledge with lively dialectical confrontations and crackling clapping of hands.
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
Boat Trips

For Those Becoming Internet Sick

Hop on and let yourself go on unmissable boat trips like the Philippine archipelago of Bacuit and the frozen sea of ​​the Finnish Gulf of Bothnia.
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

Photography of Nha Terra São Nicolau

The voice of the late Cesária Verde crystallized the feeling of Cape Verdeans who were forced to leave their island. who visits São Nicolau or, wherever it may be, admires images that illustrate it well, understands why its people proudly and forever call it their land.
sunlight photography, sun, lights
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 2)

One Sun, So Many Lights

Most travel photos are taken in sunlight. Sunlight and weather form a capricious interaction. Learn how to predict, detect and use at its best.
Registration Square, Silk Road, Samarkand, Uzbekistan
Samarkand, Uzbequistan

A Monumental Legacy of the Silk Road

In Samarkand, cotton is the most traded commodity and Ladas and Chevrolets have replaced camels. Today, instead of caravans, Marco Polo would find Uzbekistan's worst drivers.
Praia do Penedo, Porto Santo Island, Portugal
Porto Santo, Portugal

Praised Be the Island of Porto Santo

Discovered during a stormy sea tour, Porto Santo remains a providential shelter. Countless planes that the weather diverts from neighboring Madeira guarantee their landing there. As thousands of vacationers do every year, they surrender to the softness and immensity of the golden beach and the exuberance of the volcanic sceneries.
Maksim, Sami people, Inari, Finland-2
Winter White
Inari, Finland

The Guardians of Boreal Europe

Long discriminated against by Scandinavian, Finnish and Russian settlers, the Sami people regain their autonomy and pride themselves on their nationality.
silhouette and poem, Cora coralina, Goias Velho, Brazil
Goiás Velho, Brazil

The Life and Work of a Marginal Writer

Born in Goiás, Ana Lins Bretas spent most of her life far from her castrating family and the city. Returning to its origins, it continued to portray the prejudiced mentality of the Brazilian countryside
Herd in Manang, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Annapurna Circuit: 8th Manang, Nepal

Manang: the Last Acclimatization in Civilization

Six days after leaving Besisahar we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). Located at the foot of the Annapurna III and Gangapurna Mountains, Manang is the civilization that pampers and prepares hikers for the ever-dreaded crossing of Thorong La Gorge (5416 m).
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Natural Parks
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Jerusalem God, Israel, Golden City
UNESCO World Heritage
Jerusalem, Israel

Closer to God

Three thousand years of history as mystical as it is troubled come to life in Jerusalem. Worshiped by Christians, Jews and Muslims, this city radiates controversy but attracts believers from all over the world.
female and cub, grizzly footsteps, katmai national park, alaska
PN Katmai, Alaska

In the Footsteps of the Grizzly Man

Timothy Treadwell spent summers on end with the bears of Katmai. Traveling through Alaska, we followed some of its trails, but unlike the species' crazy protector, we never went too far.
Phi Phi Islands, Thailand

Back to Danny Boyle's The Beach

It's been 15 years since the debut of the backpacker classic based on the novel by Alex Garland. The film popularized the places where it was shot. Shortly thereafter, the XNUMX tsunami literally washed some away off the map. Today, their controversial fame remains intact.
Detail of the Kamakhya temple in Guwahati, Assam, India.
Guwahati, India

The City that Worships Kamakhya and the Fertility

Guwahati is the largest city in the state of Assam and in North East India. It is also one of the fastest growing in the world. For Hindus and devout believers in Tantra, it will be no coincidence that Kamakhya, the mother goddess of creation, is worshiped there.
Chepe Express, Chihuahua Al Pacifico Railway
On Rails
Creel to Los Mochis, Mexico

The Barrancas del Cobre & the CHEPE Iron Horse

The Sierra Madre Occidental's relief turned the dream into a construction nightmare that lasted six decades. In 1961, at last, the prodigious Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad was opened. Its 643km cross some of the most dramatic scenery in Mexico.
Executives sleep subway seat, sleep, sleep, subway, train, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo's Hypno-Passengers

Japan is served by millions of executives slaughtered with infernal work rates and sparse vacations. Every minute of respite on the way to work or home serves them for their inemuri, napping in public.
Fruit sellers, Swarm, Mozambique
Daily life
Enxame Mozambique

Mozambican Fashion Service Area

It is repeated at almost all stops in towns of Mozambique worthy of appearing on maps. The machimbombo (bus) stops and is surrounded by a crowd of eager "businessmen". The products offered can be universal such as water or biscuits or typical of the area. In this region, a few kilometers from Nampula, fruit sales suceeded, in each and every case, quite intense.
Cliffs above the Valley of Desolation, near Graaf Reinet, South Africa
Graaf-Reinet, South Africa

A Boer Spear in South Africa

In early colonial times, Dutch explorers and settlers were terrified of the Karoo, a region of great heat, great cold, great floods and severe droughts. Until the Dutch East India Company founded Graaf-Reinet there. Since then, the fourth oldest city in the rainbow nation it thrived at a fascinating crossroads in its history.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.