Mato Grosso Pantanal, Brazil

Transpantaneira, Pantanal, Mato Grosso Ends


Cowboy Dinis
Blue Arara
herd
Entrance to Transpantaneira
Water Pig
Wetland deer
Cormorant duo
Pantanal Sunset
Joao Pinto
Navigation
Buffet of Herons
Pantaneiro Sunset II
Jacarezada
Saddle Mount
Watchman caracara
Nested Tuiuius
Chat about Tower
End of the day Tuiuiu
We leave from the South American heart of Cuiabá to the southwest and towards Bolivia. At a certain point, the paved MT060 passes under a picturesque portal and the Transpantaneira. In an instant, the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso is flooded. It becomes a huge Pantanal.

When we stopped to appreciate the portico made of logs and multilingual that announces the beginning of the Pantanal of Mato Grosso, we left the car for what we cherished in the comforting arms of Nature.

In the middle of September, the Nature of Mato Grosso confronts us with reality. We are in one of the hottest months in these parts of South America. With half past ten in the morning behind us, it was well above 40ºC.

The sun wouldn't stay there. It evaporated much of the fresh water accumulated during the rainy season.

It aggravated the pressure cooker breath that boils us and leaves us disarmed.

From then on, small wooden bridges followed, almost without counting, over ponds and canals full of water hyacinths, highlighted by their lilac flowers, water lilies and even hyperbolic water lilies.

Each of these lakes and ponds turned out to be the habitat of competing local species.

Alligators by the hundreds. Groups of furry water pigs, socializing and keeping an eye on the threat of reptiles.

Around certain bridges, the abundance of swamp animals proved to be such that we were unable to resist further photographic stops.

Longer, more intense. Even if it already seemed impossible, even hotter.

Little by little, along the Transpantaneira, intermittently, we got used to the extreme climate.

Eco-lodge Araras, a Providential Ecological Refuge

We check into Araras Eco-Lodge with some delay. André, the owner, was leaving for a meeting in Cuiabá.

Still, he explains to us the essentials about his property and business, with an obvious focus on the environmental sustainability that Pantanal sorely lacks.

Conversation leads to conversation, André Thuronyi explains to us the genesis of his anything-but-Portuguese surname.

As he was the son of Jewish parents of Hungarian origin who were forced to flee Germany shortly after the outbreak of the 2nd World War.

How parents started their lives again Paraná, one of the Brazilian states with the largest amalgamation of immigrants from Europe.

André was born in Paraná. The fascination with the incredible ecosystems of the Pantanal and the tourist opportunities that, at a certain point, they began to generate made him move with his weapons and luggage to Mato Grosso.

The business continued from strength to strength. During those days, the inn I was exploring was fully booked.

In agreement, instead of a complete welcome, André offers us a lunch that we could already smell. He says goodbye and leaves for Cuiabá. Transpantaneira above.

He leaves us in the care of Aruã, one of the guides working at the property.

Transpantaneira wetland of Mato Grosso, saddles

Discovering the Araras EcoLodge Pantanal

Aruã demonstrates an accent and ease consistent with the Pantanal leather hat, the ease, characteristic of someone who has long welcomed and accompanied foreigners, especially Europeans.

“You know how flat it is around here, right? That's why observation towers are special around here.

We already have two. I don't know if we'll just stick with these! Let's follow a trail that leads to the lowest point. It’s twelve meters long, but still an incredible view.” The reward of a 360º and comprehensive view of the Pantanal excites us.

To the point that neither the overwhelming heat nor the aggravated hunger could deter us.

On the way, we came across large marsh deer, the largest deer in South America, measuring up to 1m 30m tall and weighing 125kg.

We see two of them, barely or not at all concealed in a green amphibious bush, with their snouts tracking the air and large furry frames that looked more like radars.

The trail turns out to be shorter than we expected. In a flash, we find ourselves at the top of the tower. We contemplated the sodden and grassy vastness around us, dotted with a few marshy meadows where not even any bushes flourished.

Here and there, on its edges, forests of tiny trees clung to islands of real land. Right next to it, halfway up the tower, a solitary lilac ipe tree broke the dictatorship of green. “That’s a beautiful view, right?”, says Aruã, hoping for our validation.

We confirm without hesitation. Aruã uses the binoculars hanging around his neck, gilded by the sun for many years. She hits them in the eyes and resumes one of her favorite pastimes, recognizing animals.

We point out a drawback.

Like what had happened along the trail, Aruã identified all the species in English. “And what is it like in Portuguese, Aruã?” we questioned him more than once, aware that we would end up pushing him against the wall.

Curious about how he would react. ”Xiii, I only know a few in Portuguese.

The truth is that almost no Brazilian or Portuguese customers come here, it's better not to mention it. They are almost all British, German, Swiss, Austrian and so on. Little by little, I forget the names in Portuguese…”

We were approaching one in the afternoon. Leaving a traditional Pantanal lunch waiting was a mistake we didn't want to make.

It would be more wrong than approaching local specialties with gluttony and eating too much considering that the long ecolodge trail awaited us, 4km long, ending in a 25 meter tower, double panoramic.

This is a mistake that, with a rustic buffet ahead of us, we were forced to make.

Back to Transpantaneira, aimed at Poconé

Arriving at 16pm, with the sky and the atmosphere of the Pantanal already vaporous from boiling, we left the Araras Eco-lodge.

We reversed at Transpantaneira, in the direction of Poconé.

Long before we got there, we detoured from Transpantaneira, to the southeast, in search of Pousada Piuval, halfway to the large sub-pantanal in which the Bento Gomes river expands.

Along the way, we stopped, determined to photograph more alligators and a family of tuiuiús, owners of a spacious nest in which three young ones were begging for food.

We also identified a caracara scanning the surrounding area for food opportunities and shrill hyacinth macaws. Not only.

An approaching dust portends what we estimated to be one of the herds that proliferate in Mato Grosso.

Leading her, through a gate, into a fenced farm, was Diogo Batista, a cowboy protected from the sun by a white leather hat with large brims.

In other words, Sô Diogo tells us that in addition to the cattle, he was also wrapping up his already long day's work. He tells us that his horse was called Canário.

Who knows if that would be the reason for the baggy yellow polo shirt he wore over his worn jeans.

When we arrived at Pousada Piuval, the Pantanal captured us with a large incandescent ball, surrounded by a pink aura, both, lost in a heavy and leaden firmament.

Resplendent End of Day at Pousada Piuval

A resident soundtrack celebrates that work of art, with songs and chirps that disperse in the wet immensity.

Pitch eradicates the twilight festival. We took shelter in the comfort of the inn. With the dawn, everything repeats itself. In reverse order.

Ivã, Piuval's guide, invites us to take a tour around the inn, in the cold, while the cold lasts.

Transpantaneira wetland of Mato Grosso, herons

Without expecting it, we came across a group of roaming emus, with herds of horses and howler monkeys sharing a large bunch of bananas.

Struck on the edge of a nearby stream, with the mere wave of a branch in the water, Ivã attracts dozens of eager alligators. “And you know what? There are jaguars around here.

They come to drink from time to time, and sometimes they even watch the alligators, capybaras and even the foals on the farm. But you have to be lucky to see them.

This wetland is very vast. There are plenty of places where they can drink. And the animals they can eat.”

Embarked Exploration Around Pousada Piuval

In the afternoon, it is Ivan who guides us, in charge of revealing to us the vast fluvio-lacustrine that delimited the farm. We boarded as the only foreign passengers.

Ivan leads us through channels cut into the amphibious vegetation to the water-only core of the lagoon.

From there, it points to an island solid enough to support another of the region's precious towers.

We went up in the company of Ivan and his colleague Isonildo, surrounded by flocks of herons and cormorants.

When we return to the anchorage, as often happens in the Pantanal, the moment when sunset makes the great birds diffuse, produces magic again.

A tuiuiú flutters to the top of a treetop.

With a few adjustment steps, we register their blackened but graceful movements against the screen of the fiery firmament.

Surprise of surprises, the next day dawns cloudy, with a rainy air. The vast wetland, of the Cerrado to the Pampas, crossed by Transpantaneira, has its cycles and seasons.

The rainy season was once again at the door.

Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
Fazenda São João, Miranda, Brazil

Pantanal with Paraguay in Sight

When the Fazenda Passo do Lontra decided to expand its ecotourism, it recruited the other family farm, the São João. Further away from the Miranda River, this second property reveals a remote Pantanal, on the verge of Paraguay. The country and the homonymous river.
Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

On the world map, south of the famous brazilian wetland, a little-known flooded region appears, but almost as vast and rich in biodiversity. the Guarani expression Y bera defines it as “shining waters”. The adjective fits more than its strong luminance.
Chapada dos Guimarães, Mato Grosso, Brazil

In the Burning Heart of South America

It was only in 1909 that the South American geodesic center was established by Cândido Rondon, a Brazilian marshal. Today, it is located in the city of Cuiabá. It has the stunning but overly combustible scenery of Chapada dos Guimarães nearby.
Maguri Bill, India

A Wetland in the Far East of India

The Maguri Bill occupies an amphibious area in the Assamese vicinity of the river Brahmaputra. It is praised as an incredible habitat especially for birds. When we navigate it in gondola mode, we are faced with much (but much) more life than just the asada.
Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

A Farm at the End of the World

In 1886, Thomas Bridges, an English orphan taken by his missionary foster family to the farthest reaches of the southern hemisphere, founded the ancient homestead of Tierra del Fuego. Bridges and the descendants surrendered to the end of the world. today, your Estancia harberton it is a stunning Argentine monument to human determination and resilience.
Passo do Lontra, Miranda, Brazil

The Flooded Brazil of Passo do Lontra

We are on the western edge of Mato Grosso do Sul but bush, on these sides, is something else. In an extension of almost 200.000 km2, the Brazil it appears partially submerged, by rivers, streams, lakes and other waters dispersed in vast alluvial plains. Not even the panting heat of the dry season drains the life and biodiversity of Pantanal places and farms like the one that welcomed us on the banks of the Miranda River.
Everglades National Park, Florida, USA

Florida's Great Weedy River

Anyone who flies over the south of the 27th state is amazed by the green, smooth and soggy vastness that contrasts with the surrounding oceanic tones. This unique U.S. marsh-prairie ecosystem is home to a prolific fauna dominated by 200 of Florida's 1.25 million alligators.
Ras R'mal, Djerba, Tunisia

The Island of the Flamingos that the Pirates Seized

Until some time ago, Ras R'mal was a large sandbar, home to a myriad of birds. Djerba's international popularity has made it the lair of an unusual tourist operation.
Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

The Swampy Freedom of Quilombo do Remanso

Runaway slaves have survived for centuries around a wetland in Chapada Diamantina. Today, the quilombo of Remanso is a symbol of their union and resistance, but also of the exclusion to which they were voted.
Okavango Delta, Botswana

Not all rivers reach the sea

Third longest river in southern Africa, the Okavango rises in the Angolan Bié plateau and runs 1600km to the southeast. It gets lost in the Kalahari Desert where it irrigates a dazzling wetland teeming with wildlife.
Manaus, Brazil

Meeting the Meeting of the Waters

The phenomenon is not unique, but in Manaus it has a special beauty and solemnity. At a certain point, the Negro and Solimões rivers converge on the same Amazonas bed, but instead of immediately mixing, both flows continue side by side. As we explore these parts of the Amazon, we witness the unusual confrontation of the Encontro das Águas.
Chã das Caldeiras, Fogo Island Cape Verde

A "French" Clan at the Mercy of Fire

In 1870, a Count born in Grenoble on his way to Brazilian exile, made a stopover in Cape Verde where native beauties tied him to the island of Fogo. Two of his children settled in the middle of the volcano's crater and continued to raise offspring there. Not even the destruction caused by the recent eruptions deters the prolific Montrond from the “county” they founded in Chã das Caldeiras.    
Castro Laboreiro, Portugal  

From Castro de Laboreiro to Raia da Serra Peneda - Gerês

We arrived at (i) the eminence of Galicia, at an altitude of 1000m and even more. Castro Laboreiro and the surrounding villages stand out against the granite monumentality of the mountains and the Planalto da Peneda and Laboreiro. As do its resilient people who, sometimes handed over to Brandas and sometimes to Inverneiras, still call these stunning places home.
Big Zimbabwe

Great Zimbabwe, Endless Mystery

Between the 1500th and XNUMXth centuries, Bantu peoples built what became the largest medieval city in sub-Saharan Africa. From XNUMX onwards, with the passage of the first Portuguese explorers arriving from Mozambique, the city was already in decline. Its ruins, which inspired the name of the present-day Zimbabwean nation, have many unanswered questions.  
Izamal, Mexico

The Holy, Yellow and Beautiful Mexican City

Until the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, Izamal was a center of worship for the supreme Mayan god Itzamná and Kinich Kakmó, the one of the sun. Gradually, the invaders razed the various pyramids of the natives. In its place, they built a large Franciscan convent and a prolific colonial houses, with the same solar tone in which the now Catholic city shines.
Cape Coast, Ghana

The Divine Purification Festival

The story goes that, once, a plague devastated the population of Cape Coast of today Ghana. Only the prayers of the survivors and the cleansing of evil carried out by the gods will have put an end to the scourge. Since then, the natives have returned the blessing of the 77 deities of the traditional Oguaa region with the frenzied Fetu Afahye festival.
Fish River Canyon, Namíbia

The Namibian Guts of Africa

When nothing makes you foreseeable, a vast river ravine burrows the southern end of the Namíbia. At 160km long, 27km wide and, at intervals, 550 meters deep, the Fish River Canyon is the Grand Canyon of Africa. And one of the biggest canyons on the face of the Earth.
Tonga, Western Samoa, Polynesia

XXL Pacific

For centuries, the natives of the Polynesian islands subsisted on land and sea. Until the intrusion of colonial powers and the subsequent introduction of fatty pieces of meat, fast food and sugary drinks have spawned a plague of diabetes and obesity. Today, while much of Tonga's national GDP, Western Samoa and neighbors is wasted on these “western poisons”, fishermen barely manage to sell their fish.
Annapurna Circuit: 2th - Chame a Upper BananaNepal

(I) Eminent Annapurnas

We woke up in Chame, still below 3000m. There we saw, for the first time, the snowy and highest peaks of the Himalayas. From there, we set off for another walk along the Annapurna Circuit through the foothills and slopes of the great mountain range. towards Upper Banana.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Safari
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Muktinath to Kagbeni, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Kagbeni
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit 14th - Muktinath to Kagbeni, Nepal

On the Other Side of the Pass

After the demanding crossing of Thorong La, we recover in the cozy village of Muktinath. The next morning we proceed back to lower altitudes. On the way to the ancient kingdom of Upper Mustang and the village of Kagbeni that serves as its gateway.
Architecture & Design
Castles and Fortresses

A Defending World: Castles and Fortresses that Resist

Under threat from enemies from the end of time, the leaders of villages and nations built castles and fortresses. All over the place, military monuments like these continue to resist.
Tibetan heights, altitude sickness, mountain prevent to treat, travel
Adventure

Altitude Sickness: the Grievances of Getting Mountain Sick

When traveling, it happens that we find ourselves confronted with the lack of time to explore a place as unmissable as it is high. Medicine and previous experiences with Altitude Evil dictate that we should not risk ascending in a hurry.
Indigenous Crowned
Ceremonies and Festivities
Pueblos del Sur, Venezuela

Behind the Venezuela Andes. Fiesta Time.

In 1619, the authorities of Mérida dictated the settlement of the surrounding territory. The order resulted in 19 remote villages that we found dedicated to commemorations with caretos and local pauliteiros.
View from Pico Verde to Praia Grande, São Vicente, Cape Verde
Cities
São Vicente, Cape Verde

The Volcanic Arid Wonder of Soncente

A return to São Vicente reveals an aridity as dazzling as it is inhospitable. Those who visit it are surprised by the grandeur and geological eccentricity of the fourth smallest island in Cape Verde.
young saleswoman, nation, bread, uzbekistan
Meal
Fergana Valley, Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan, The Nation That Does Not Lack Bread

Few countries employ cereals like Uzbekistan. In this republic of Central Asia, bread plays a vital and social role. The Uzbeks produce it and consume it with devotion and in abundance.
Maiko during cultural show in Nara, Geisha, Nara, Japan
Culture
Kyoto, Japan

Survival: The Last Geisha Art

There have been almost 100 but times have changed and geishas are on the brink of extinction. Today, the few that remain are forced to give in to Japan's less subtle and elegant modernity.
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Sport
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
trip around the world, symbol of wisdom illustrated in a window at Inari airport, Finnish Lapland
Traveling
Around the World - Part 1

Traveling Brings Wisdom. Find out how to travel around the world.

The Earth turns on itself every day. In this series of articles, you will find indispensable clarifications and advice for those who make a point of going around it at least once in their life.
Ethnic
Gizo, Solomon Islands

A Saeraghi Young Singers Gala

In Gizo, the damage caused by the tsunami that hit the Solomon Islands is still very visible. On the coast of Saeraghi, children's bathing happiness contrasts with their heritage of desolation.
ice tunnel, black gold route, Valdez, Alaska, USA
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Sensations vs Impressions

Porvoo, Finland, warehouses
History
Porvoo, Finland

A Medieval and Winter Finland

One of the oldest settlements of the Suomi nation, in the early XNUMXth century, Porvoo was a busy riverside post and its third city. Over time, Porvoo lost commercial importance. In return, it has become one of Finland's revered historic strongholds.  
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Islands
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.
Northern Lights, Laponia, Rovaniemi, Finland, Fire Fox
Winter White
Lapland, Finland

In Search of the Fire Fox

Unique to the heights of the Earth are the northern or southern auroras, light phenomena generated by solar explosions. You Sami natives from Lapland they believed it to be a fiery fox that spread sparkles in the sky. Whatever they are, not even the nearly 30 degrees below zero that were felt in the far north of Finland could deter us from admiring them.
silhouette and poem, Cora coralina, Goias Velho, Brazil
Literature
Goiás Velho, Brazil

The Life and Work of a Marginal Writer

Born in Goiás, Ana Lins Bretas spent most of her life far from her castrating family and the city. Returning to its origins, it continued to portray the prejudiced mentality of the Brazilian countryside
Aurora lights up the Pisang Valley, Nepal.
Nature
Annapurna Circuit: 3rd- Upper Banana, Nepal

An Unexpected Snowy Aurora

At the first glimmers of light, the sight of the white mantle that had covered the village during the night dazzles us. With one of the toughest walks on the Annapurna Circuit ahead of us, we postponed the match as much as possible. Annoyed, we left Upper Pisang towards Escort when the last snow faded.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Autumn
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Bather, The Baths, Devil's Bay (The Baths) National Park, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands
Natural Parks
Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

Virgin Gorda's Divine “Caribbaths”

Discovering the Virgin Islands, we disembark on a tropical and seductive seaside dotted with huge granite boulders. The Baths seem straight out of the Seychelles but they are one of the most exuberant marine scenery in the Caribbean.
Praslin Island, Cocos from the Sea, Seychelles, Eden Cove
UNESCO World Heritage

Praslin, Seychelles

 

The Eden of the Enigmatic Coco-de-Mer

For centuries, Arab and European sailors believed that the largest seed in the world, which they found on the coasts of the Indian Ocean in the shape of a woman's voluptuous hips, came from a mythical tree at the bottom of the oceans. The sensual island that always generated them left us ecstatic.
aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Characters
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
Martinique island, French Antilles, Caribbean Monument Cap 110
Beaches
Martinique, French Antilles

The Armpit Baguette Caribbean

We move around Martinique as freely as the Euro and the tricolor flags fly supreme. But this piece of France is volcanic and lush. Lies in the insular heart of the Americas and has a delicious taste of Africa.
holy bookcase
Religion
Tsfat (Safed), Israel

When the Kabbalah is a Victim of Itself

In the 50s, Tsfat brought together the artistic life of the young Israeli nation and regained its secular mystique. But famous converts like Madonna have come to disturb the most elemental Kabbalist discretion.
Train Kuranda train, Cairns, Queensland, Australia
On Rails
Cairns-Kuranda, Australia

Train to the Middle of the Jungle

Built out of Cairns to save miners isolated in the rainforest from starvation by flooding, the Kuranda Railway eventually became the livelihood of hundreds of alternative Aussies.
Society
Dali, China

Chinese Style Flash Mob

The time is set and the place is known. When the music starts playing, a crowd follows the choreography harmoniously until time runs out and everyone returns to their lives.
Daily life
Arduous Professions

the bread the devil kneaded

Work is essential to most lives. But, certain jobs impose a degree of effort, monotony or danger that only a few chosen ones can measure up to.
Masai Mara Reservation, Masai Land Travel, Kenya, Masai Convivial
Wildlife
Masai Mara, Kenya

A Journey Through the Masai Lands

The Mara savannah became famous for the confrontation between millions of herbivores and their predators. But, in a reckless communion with wildlife, it is the Masai humans who stand out there.
Full Dog Mushing
Scenic Flights
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.