tombstone, USA

Tombstone: the City Too Hard to Die


gang of 4
The Tombstone Law Enforcement Court formed by the Earp brothers and their friend Doc Holliday, featured here in the re-enactment of the OK Corral duel held in the city.
on the way to somewhere
Stagecoach runs along E. Allen Street, the main thoroughfare of Tombstone.
western lace
Maids of the Big Nose Kate saloon, one of the city's historic establishments.
gold tombstone
Sol gilds one of Tombstone's Western architectural lines.
Eminent clash
Moment of the re-enactment of the OK Corral duel in a wooden setting that emulates the place of confrontation.
Time to refresh the soul
Colorful and lively interior of the Big Nose Kate saloon.
OK Corral ON/OFF
One of the duel actors triggers the voiceover that explains the OK Corral duel event.
R.I.P.
Tombstones and crude graves of rival assassins of the Earp brothers and Doc Holliday, shot down during the OK Corral duel.
Duel Time
Gunmen rush down Tombstone's main street ready for conflict.
Silver veins discovered at the end of the XNUMXth century made Tombstone a prosperous and conflictive mining center on the frontier of the United States to Mexico. Lawrence Kasdan, Kurt Russell, Kevin Costner and other Hollywood directors and actors made famous the Earp brothers and the bloodthirsty duel of “OK Corral”. The Tombstone, which, over time, has claimed so many lives, is about to last.

Tucson to Tombstone: through Arizona below

We are not big fans of theme parks. We were afraid to find little more than one in Tombstone. In any case, through the ages, Tombstone has always inspired fear. Aware of its epic and fascinating Western past, we give it the benefit of the doubt and leave Tucson pointed that way.

Less than half an hour from the border with the Mexico, soon we have to stop at a police checkpoint. The officers find the context in which they found us strange: a couple with Portuguese passports – she with more Mexican than Portuguese features – aboard an old and classic Buick Le Saber, not rented, with California license plate and signs of having recently traveled many kilometers in a way semi-domicile.

Even Americans, the agents themselves have obvious Mexican genetics and looks. They check ownership of the car and inquire about the relationship we had with the owner. After confirming that the Buick was not on the list of stolen vehicles and explaining to them that the owner was an uncle of ours, they tell us to move on. They say goodbye with warm smiles.

We passed Sonoita, Whetstone and Fairbank. An hour and a half of driving along the edge of the Sonoran Desert later, we enter a surreal colonnaded redoubt.

Tombstone's Western Ways

Stages cross the main street of the city, delimited by two rows of ground-floor wooden buildings, extending to a long communal walkway formed by successive porches. A multitude of commercial establishments occupy the shaded ground floors.

Stage in Tombstone, Arizona

Stagecoach runs along E. Allen Street, the main thoroughfare of Tombstone.

Craft and souvenir shops, bars, breweries and restaurants but also saloons and the theater are identified by signs that reinforce the peculiarity of the place: “Politicians wipe their shit off their boots before they go inside." or "Prohibited Weapons. The cemetery is already full."

The various characters from the West that we come across are so trustworthy that, more than leaving us perplexed, they convince us that we have retreated to the bellicose closing of the XNUMXth century of these inhospitable and marginal places.

Even at the end of a so-called winter, the desert heat tightens. We drank cold beers in the shade of one of the porches, in the company of what appeared to be the village's bearded gravedigger. Unexpectedly, rival groups of gunmen charge from opposite ends of E. Ellen Street until they come face to face, in front of a store identified as “Outlaw Outfitter".

A crowd of onlookers gathers on both sides of the road and follows the course of the duel. On that occasion, as in all the more recent ones, the shooting and the killings followed a theatrical script, but since its troubled gestation, for decades to come, Tombstone was the scene of countless of these confrontations, as real as they were deadly.

Duel in Tombstone, Arizona, United States of America

Gunmen rush down Tombstone's main street ready for conflict.

How Ed Schieffelin's Luck Originated the City

Tombstone was founded by Ed Schieffelin in 1879, 15 years after the end of the American Civil War. Schieffelin was a scout in the army of the USA parked at Camp Huachuca. I used to roam the desert vastness around in search of valuable ores. By that time, three other superintendents had been killed by Indians.

When a colleague and friend found out about the places that Schieffelin had started to prospect, he said: “The only stone you'll find around these parts will be your own tombstone” or, in another version: “You'd better take your coffin with you; you'll only find your tombstone around there, nothing else” (Tombstone, in English).

Schieffelin ignored him. In 1877, he found silver samples in a plate called Goose Flats. It took months to ascertain its origin. When he got it, he estimated that the lode would be 15m long by 30cm wide. He hurried to register the land plot of “Tombstone".

Even far from other cities, propelled by the 40 to 85 million dollars of silver that made it the largest mining district in Arizona, the place has become one of the last mining hubs in the American West.

Just two years later, Tombstone had 110 saloons, a bowling hall, 14 games, several dance halls, an ice house and an ice cream parlor, a school, two benches, a church and several brothels. These establishments and buildings were erected on a series of mines deepened by the greed of newly arrived miners.

Big Nose Kate Saloon in Tombstone, Arizona, United States of America

Colorful and lively interior of the Big Nose Kate saloon.

Due to hasty, neglectful construction and non-existent structural fire precautions, Tombstone was devastated by two major fires in consecutive years. The first, in 1881, began when a lit cigarette burned a whiskey barrel in one of the saloons. It devastated sixty-six businesses, the entire eastern section of the city's commercial area.

Saloons, theaters and the like: reliving the past in Tombstone

They may not be the 100% original, but they should live up to the status achieved by the city, in 1961, of National Historic Landmark District. As such, the authorities and the inhabitants of Tombstone (today circa 1300) strive to preserve several of its iconic buildings.

These were the cases of the Birdcage Theatre, the Saloon and the Schiefflin mine, the Longhorn restaurant, the Cochise district court, the City Hall, the Big Nose Kate saloon and, for events that we are yet to discuss, the most famous of all remaining together OK Corral, this despite the second fire only leaving the raised sign intact.

The sun was already descending from its apex but the temperature hovered well above 30º. Accordingly, visitors stayed inside establishments, determined to avoid the turret that was felt. We took refuge in the Big Nose Kate saloon.

There, we are served by two young ladies of pleasure extras, in short black satin dresses, with high breasts and corsets to match the voluptuous lacy legs. And, right next door, a middle-aged visitor crawls into a coffin. Photographs are taken holding a small sign that reads “hooker” with a noose around his neck, which a sheriff helps to hold.

Maids of the Big Nose Kate Saloon in Tombstone, Arizona, United States of America

Maids of the Big Nose Kate saloon, one of the city's historic establishments

We didn't know what to think about the fact that most of the serious customers wear snake clothes, have a posture like a snake, and most likely are. We were in the near-Mexican confines of Arizona, one of the American states most faithful to the nation's conservative, gunslinging past. In Tombstone, the threshold between past and present, between fiction and reality, was increasingly blurred.

The Reenacted Slaughter of OK Corral

To confirm it, 15:30 pm arrived, the time of the last re-enactment of the day of OK Corral's duel. We moved to the small bench set up facing the gaudy scenery and let the action unfold. Every year, more than 400.000 outsiders watch this neat little theatre.

Duel at OK Corral, Tombstone, Arizona, United States of America

Moment of the re-enactment of the OK Corral duel in a wooden setting that emulates the place of confrontation.

If we take into account the cinematographic and television re-enactments spread all over the world, the number of spectators and those familiar with the events that precipitated from March 15, 1881 to April 15, 1882 increases exponentially.

The confrontations between good and evil, law and outlaws, had such bloodthirsty and moving endings that they entered like piercing bullets in the profuse Western historical imagination of the USA.

Democrats, Republicans and the Outlaw Cowboys

In the wake of the American Civil War, shrouded in greed, resentment and treachery, Tombstone had seen various tensions escalate from his early days. Most of its cobols, semi-exiled earth men, were “Democrats” from the South, especially from Texas, attached to the Confederate and defeated side of the conflict that had just begun to heal.

Tombstone, Arizona, United States of America

Sol gilds one of Tombstone's Western architectural lines.

Mine and business owners, miners, inhabitants and law enforcement officers were almost all Republicans. More ideologically receptive and resourceful capitalists from the northern states.

From 1880 onwards, the Mexican government severely taxed US imports of alcohol, cattle and tobacco. The smuggling of these goods has intensified. It spread the criminal action of outlaw gangs who called themselves “Cowboys”.

So much so that, in Cochise County to which Tombstone belonged, it was considered insulting to use the term to refer to men who handled cattle. Instead, they should be called “Stake".

The Earps vs Pack McLaury, Clanton and Claiborne

Part of this picture, on the night of March 15, 1881, three cobols tried to steal a stagecoach carrying $26.000 in bar silver. They killed their popular driver and another passenger. Sheriff Virgil Earp and his brothers and temporary deputies Wyatt and Morgan Earp set out on the criminals' trail.

The persecution turned out to involve a familiar and rival clan of Cobols who despised the Earp brothers' ancestry in Tombstone and the legal and moral counterpower they represented. It triggered a sequence of ambushes and counter-ambushes, murders and revenge, which, in turn, led to the confrontation of OK Corral.

Then, in thirty seconds, the Earp brothers, and their physical friend Doc Holliday, shot down Tom McLaury, Frank McLaury, and Billy Clanton. Even though they were fatally wounded, the latter two still managed to fight back and wounded Virgil, Morgan and Doc. Ike Clanton and Billy Claiborne fled.

Earp brothers look-alikes and friend Doc Holliday in Tombstone, USA

The Tombstone Law Enforcement Court formed by the Earp brothers and their friend Doc Holliday, featured here in the re-enactment of the OK Corral duel held in the city.

Wyatt, an Earp Doomed to Revenge

Despite the impact and notoriety of this particular duel, the conflict would continue. The new Sheriff Beham who had watched the duel detained the Earps and Holliday, who were accused of murder. A month later, after Tombstone legal authorities ruled that the killings had been justified, he released them.

Meanwhile, Virgil Earp was trapped, shot by wildebeests hiding in a street in Tombstone. After another three months, his brother Morgan succumbed to a bullet that hit his spine while playing pool. In both cases, the responsible gunmen escaped justice.

Frustrated by the growing cowardice and inefficiency of the city's Law, Wyatt, the surviving Earp, organized a squadron on horseback that chased and slaughtered the four wildebeests who had fired at the brothers. This ultimate chase went down in history as Earp Vendetta Ride.

OK Corral Show actor activates voiceover in Tombstone, Arizona, United States of America

One of the duel actors triggers the voiceover that explains the OK Corral duel event.

The Hollywood Versions of Tombstone

Since 1939, Hollywood has reinforced Tombstone's media firepower. “Frontier Marshall”, “Sheriff of Tombstone","My Darling Clementine” by John Ford with Henry Fonda, “Gunfight at the OK Corral","hour of the gun","Tombstone"and "Wyatt Earp”, these feature films and several other television works addressed the bloody sequel.

Kevin Costner was expected to star in "Tombstone” by George P. Cosmatos, with Kurt Russell and Val Kilmer, but he was displeased by screenwriter Kevin Jarre's refusal to give more weight to Wyatt Earp's character. Kostner abandoned that stage. He teamed up with Laurence Kasdan (the director of the epic “Silverado” from 1985) in the rival project “Wyatt Earp".

According to Kurt Russell, he also did everything to prevent the big Hollywood studios from distributing “Tombstone”. However, the Buena Vistas boycotted his boycott. The two films premiered six months apart in their own commercial duel.

As for Tombstone village, the censuses of USA they showed that, once silver mining had ended, the population had dropped from 1900 inhabitants in 1890 to less than 700 in 1900.

As of October 26, 1881, Billy Clayton, Tom McLaury and Frank McClaury who, as we have witnessed, have their headstones just below the OK Corral, among cacti and under a blanket of pebbles, no longer contribute to local demography.

Earp and Doc Holliday brothers graves in Tombstone, United States of America

Tombstones and crude graves of rival assassins of the Earp brothers and Doc Holliday, shot down during the OK Corral duel.

Tombstone, however, remained the county seat of Cochise county until 1929 and saved itself from becoming a ghost town. Ten years later, its media coverage via Hollywood began to encourage the intense tourism that now sees it. Nearly 140 years after its founding, the tormented Tombstone endures.

More tourist information about Tombstone on the website visit Arizona.

Key West, USA

The Tropical Wild West of the USA

We've come to the end of the Overseas Highway and the ultimate stronghold of propagandism Florida Keys. The continental United States here they surrender to a dazzling turquoise emerald marine vastness. And to a southern reverie fueled by a kind of Caribbean spell.
Grand Canyon, USA

Journey through the Abysmal North America

The Colorado River and tributaries began flowing into the plateau of the same name 17 million years ago and exposed half of Earth's geological past. They also carved one of its most stunning entrails.
sitka, Alaska

Sitka: Journey through a once Russian Alaska

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Monument Valley, USA

Indians or Cowboys?

Iconic Western filmmakers like John Ford immortalized what is the largest Indian territory in the United States. Today, in the Navajo Nation, the Navajo also live in the shoes of their old enemies.
Las Vegas, USA

Where sin is always forgiven

Projected from the Mojave Desert like a neon mirage, the North American capital of gaming and entertainment is experienced as a gamble in the dark. Lush and addictive, Vegas neither learns nor regrets.
Navajo nation, USA

The Navajo Nation Lands

From Kayenta to Page, passing through Marble Canyon, we explore the southern Colorado Plateau. Dramatic and desert, the scenery of this indigenous domain, cut out in Arizona, reveals itself to be splendid.
Death Valley, USA

The Hottest Place Resurrection

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Skagway, Alaska

A Klondike's Gold Fever Variant

The last great American gold rush is long over. These days, hundreds of cruise ships each summer pour thousands of well-heeled visitors into the shop-lined streets of Skagway.
Albuquerque, USA

When the Drums Sound, the Indians Resist

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Las Vegas, USA

The Sin City Cradle

The famous Strip has not always focused the attention of Las Vegas. Many of its hotels and casinos replicated the neon glamor of the street that once stood out, Fremont Street.
Florida Keys, USA

The Caribbean Stepping Stone of the USA

Os United States continental islands seem to close to the south in its capricious peninsula of Florida. Don't stop there. More than a hundred islands of coral, sand and mangroves form an eccentric tropical expanse that has long seduced American vacationers.
Miami, USA

A Masterpiece of Urban Rehabilitation

At the turn of the 25st century, the Wynwood neighbourhood remained filled with abandoned factories and warehouses and graffiti. Tony Goldman, a shrewd real estate investor, bought more than XNUMX properties and founded a mural park. Much more than honoring graffiti there, Goldman founded the Wynwood Arts District, the great bastion of creativity in Miami.
Miami beach, USA

The Beach of All Vanities

Few coasts concentrate, at the same time, so much heat and displays of fame, wealth and glory. Located in the extreme southeast of the USA, Miami Beach is accessible via six bridges that connect it to the rest of Florida. It is meager for the number of souls who desire it.
Little Havana, USA

Little Havana of the Nonconformists

Over the decades and until today, thousands of Cubans have crossed the Florida Straits in search of the land of freedom and opportunity. With the US a mere 145 km away, many have gone no further. His Little Havana in Miami is today the most emblematic neighborhood of the Cuban diaspora.
Mount Denali, Alaska

The Sacred Ceiling of North America

The Athabascan Indians called him Denali, or the Great, and they revered his haughtiness. This stunning mountain has aroused the greed of climbers and a long succession of record-breaking climbs.
Juneau, Alaska

The Little Capital of Greater Alaska

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Talkeetna, Alaska

Talkeetna's Alaska-Style Life

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San Francisco, USA

San Francisco Cable Cars: A Life of Highs and Lows

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Mauna Kea, Hawaii

Mauna Kea: the Volcano with an Eye out in Space

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pearl harbor, Hawaii

The Day Japan Went Too Far

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Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
Safari
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

On the eminence of the coast of Mozambique, the province of KwaZulu-Natal is home to an unexpected South Africa. Deserted beaches full of dunes, vast estuarine swamps and hills covered with fog fill this wild land also bathed by the Indian Ocean. It is shared by the subjects of the always proud Zulu nation and one of the most prolific and diverse fauna on the African continent.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
holy plain, Bagan, Myanmar
Architecture & Design
Bagan, Myanmar

The Plain of Pagodas, Temples and other Heavenly Redemptions

Burmese religiosity has always been based on a commitment to redemption. In Bagan, wealthy and fearful believers continue to erect pagodas in hopes of winning the benevolence of the gods.
Salto Angel, Rio that falls from the sky, Angel Falls, PN Canaima, Venezuela
Adventure
PN Canaima, Venezuela

Kerepakupai, Salto Angel: The River that Falls from Heaven

In 1937, Jimmy Angel landed a light aircraft on a plateau lost in the Venezuelan jungle. The American adventurer did not find gold but he conquered the baptism of the longest waterfall on the face of the Earth
4th of July Fireworks-Seward, Alaska, United States
Ceremonies and Festivities
Seward, Alaska

The Longest 4th of July

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scarlet summer
Cities

Valencia to Xativa, Spain (España)

Across Iberia

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Cocoa, Chocolate, Sao Tome Principe, Agua Izé farm
Meal
São Tomé and Principe

Cocoa Roças, Corallo and the Chocolate Factory

At the beginning of the century. In the XNUMXth century, São Tomé and Príncipe generated more cocoa than any other territory. Thanks to the dedication of some entrepreneurs, production survives and the two islands taste like the best chocolate.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Culture
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

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combat arbiter, cockfighting, philippines
Sport
Philippines

When Only Cock Fights Wake Up the Philippines

Banned in much of the First World, cockfighting thrives in the Philippines where they move millions of people and pesos. Despite its eternal problems, it is the sabong that most stimulates the nation.
Africa Princess, Canhambaque, Bijagós, Guinea Bissau,
Traveling
Africa Princess Cruise, 1º Bijagos, Guinea Bissau

Towards Canhambaque, through the History of Guinea Bissau

The Africa Princess departs from the port of Bissau, downstream the Geba estuary. We make a first stopover on the island of Bolama. From the old capital, we proceed to the heart of the Bijagós archipelago.
Ethnic
Nelson to Wharariki, Abel Tasman NP, New Zealand

The Maori coastline on which Europeans landed

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Sunset, Avenue of Baobabs, Madagascar
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio

days like so many others

Kronstadt Russia Autumn, owner of the Bouquet
History
Kronstadt, Russia

The Autumn of the Russian Island-City of All Crossroads

Founded by Peter the Great, it became the port and naval base protecting Saint Petersburg and northern Greater Russia. In March 1921, it rebelled against the Bolsheviks it had supported during the October Revolution. In this October we're going through, Kronstadt is once again covered by the same exuberant yellow of uncertainty.
Figure at Praia do Curral, Ilhabela, Brazil
Islands
Ilhabela, Brazil

Ilhabela: After Horror, the Atlantic Beauty

Ninety percent of the preserved Atlantic Forest, idyllic waterfalls and gentle, wild beaches live up to the name. But, if we go back in time, we also reveal the horrific historical facet of Ilhabela.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
Winter White
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
Baie d'Oro, Île des Pins, New Caledonia
Literature
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The Island that Leaned against Paradise

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Porto Santo, view to the south of Pico Branco
Nature
Terra Chã and Pico Branco footpaths, Porto Santo

Pico Branco, Terra Chã and Other Whims of the Golden Island

In its northeast corner, Porto Santo is another thing. With its back facing south and its large beach, we unveil a mountainous, rugged and even wooded coastline, dotted with islets that dot an even bluer Atlantic.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Hammock in Palmeiras, Praia de Uricao-Mar des caraibas, Venezuela
Natural Parks
Henri Pittier NP, Venezuela

PN Henri Pittier: between the Caribbean Sea and the Cordillera da Costa

In 1917, botanist Henri Pittier became fond of the jungle of Venezuela's sea mountains. Visitors to the national park that this Swiss created there are, today, more than they ever wanted
Composition on Nine Arches Bridge, Ella, Sri Lanka
UNESCO World Heritage
Yala NPElla-Kandy, Sri Lanka

Journey Through Sri Lanka's Tea Core

We leave the seafront of PN Yala towards Ella. On the way to Nanu Oya, we wind on rails through the jungle, among plantations in the famous Ceylon. Three hours later, again by car, we enter Kandy, the Buddhist capital that the Portuguese never managed to dominate.
now from above ladder, sorcerer of new zealand, Christchurch, new zealand
Characters
Christchurch, New Zealand

New Zealand's Cursed Wizard

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Soufrière and Pitons, Saint Luci
Beaches
Soufriere, Saint Lucia

The Great Pyramids of the Antilles

Perched above a lush coastline, the twin peaks Pitons are the hallmark of Saint Lucia. They have become so iconic that they have a place in the highest notes of East Caribbean Dollars. Right next door, residents of the former capital Soufrière know how precious their sight is.
Miyajima Island, Shinto and Buddhism, Japan, Gateway to a Holy Island
Religion
Miyajima, Japan

Shintoism and Buddhism with the Tide

Visitors to the Tori of Itsukushima admire one of the three most revered scenery in Japan. On the island of Miyajima, Japanese religiosity blends with Nature and is renewed with the flow of the Seto Inland Sea.
Train Fianarantsoa to Manakara, Malagasy TGV, locomotive
On Rails
Fianarantsoa-Manakara, Madagascar

On board the Malagasy TGV

We depart Fianarantsoa at 7a.m. It wasn't until 3am the following morning that we completed the 170km to Manakara. The natives call this almost secular train Train Great Vibrations. During the long journey, we felt, very strongly, those of the heart of Madagascar.
Parade and Pomp
Society
Saint Petersburg, Russia

When the Russian Navy Stations in Saint Petersburg

Russia dedicates the last Sunday of July to its naval forces. On that day, a crowd visits large boats moored on the Neva River as alcohol-drenched sailors seize the city.
Fruit sellers, Swarm, Mozambique
Daily life
Enxame Mozambique

Mozambican Fashion Service Area

It is repeated at almost all stops in towns of Mozambique worthy of appearing on maps. The machimbombo (bus) stops and is surrounded by a crowd of eager "businessmen". The products offered can be universal such as water or biscuits or typical of the area. In this region, a few kilometers from Nampula, fruit sales suceeded, in each and every case, quite intense.
São João Farm, Pantanal, Miranda, Mato Grosso do Sul, sunset
Wildlife
Fazenda São João, Miranda, Brazil

Pantanal with Paraguay in Sight

When the Fazenda Passo do Lontra decided to expand its ecotourism, it recruited the other family farm, the São João. Further away from the Miranda River, this second property reveals a remote Pantanal, on the verge of Paraguay. The country and the homonymous river.
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Scenic Flights
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.