The border is triple and imposes multiple customs procedures on us.
Even so, we shipped from the Thai side sooner than we expected. As we crossed to the bank of Laos, we went back a few kilometers into the river.
In Huay Xai, an eager crowd of opportunistic agents and sellers await us. We ignore the pressure as much as we can.
In this way, we were able to be one of the first to arrive at the local authorities' premises and obtain the stamps in the passport. On the way out, the agents return to the charge.
A crew member of a bright vessel prepares to return to land in Huay Xai.
They know by heart and stir-fry what semi-accidental tourists come to. Only two reasons could bring Europeans, Americans and Australians to these dubious reaches of Southeast Asia.
The Golden Triangle stretches into the surrounding mountains and is one of the most active opium and heroin producing regions in the world. Leaving aside that any of the teenagers came to close illicit and risky deals, only one hypothesis made sense: that Luang Prabang had become an unavoidable scale.
A typical Mekong boat runs along the river along one of its high banks
The river trip, lasting almost two days and a little tiring, was not even the only option. Planes depart regularly from Chiang Mai, in northern Thailand, to Luang Prabang.
Even so, the price difference and the epic charm of descending the Mekong through deep valleys and tribal villages were reason enough for everyone to opt for the slow boat. The trip, however, had its own setbacks.
“This one is dangerous. They go much faster and safer on our boats, I assure you!” the representative of a small family business from speed boats with powerboat visuals, while everyone else makes similar promises.
Well-rounded travelers peruse their Lonely Planets, Rough Guides and Routards full of advice, post-it notes and doodles. But they don't come prepared either for the real situation or to decide under the threat of so many lobbies.
Across the Mekong and Laos Below
As if that wasn't enough, only apparently minor issues get in our way. "Cushions, pillows" touts women protected from the tropical sun. The suggestion generates a new wave of indecision. Whether or not you bought those gadgets Made in China will come to have enormous significance.
We boarded that same morning on a sort of floating yellow-green cobblestone. Like an international seating game, passengers compete fiercely for seats.
Those who wake up too late for the hobby immediately begin to distill next to the furnace powered by the old two-stroke engine and go mad with its tuk tuk tuk deafening.
Over two days, the winding route is made at a ridiculous speed, with repeated stops to pick up peasants who have emerged from nowhere.
The new passengers bring on board unavoidable rural loads: large bunches of vegetables, bags and sacks who knows what, chickens, rabbits and even goats.
Passenger lao draws water from the Mekong to give it to the rooster that follows him.
Outsiders examine newcomers from top to bottom. Except for one or another victim of excessive inconvenience, they are excited about their departure. Everyone travels in discovery mode.
And any novelty combats the growing monotony of navigation in an already diminished Mekong as the dry season continued to shrink.
Buddhist monks prepare to get into a taxi after leaving the boat and the Mekong River.
The Providential Scale of Pakbeng
The night creeps in. It becomes increasingly difficult for the helmsman and his assistants to identify the rocks and shoals.
Without warning, we glimpsed a village of stilts atop a rocky slope. Shortly after, the boat we are following joins a long sequence of replicas already anchored in the river foothills of the village.
We had arrived in Pakbeng. It was said on board that that was the middle of the journey.
More boats docked at the Pakbeng natural dock, about halfway between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang
Most foreigners were already thinking about the reward of a hot meal and refreshing sleep. As with the initial embarkation, they also had to put up with the dispute of the owners of small local inns for the profit of their stays.
The night passed in three periods, shortened by an early departure that the thick fog ended up postponing. Late, still a little sleepy, we returned to the same seats as the day before, ready for another day at the Mekong.
Eight hours and many overruns of speed boats then, we are all eager to return to earth again.
Boat loaded with backpackers and natives from the Huay Xai region sets sail downstream towards Luang Prabang.
Finally, the Landing in Luang Prabang
Approaching the city on the high banks of the Mekong appears like a mirage. With just 16.000 inhabitants, Luang Prabang is, at the expense of the capital Vientiane, Laos' must-see destination.
The surrounding mountainous scenery, the approximately thirty-two Buddhist temples that, despite the various wars that ravaged the country, are still standing and the omnipresent French colonial architecture gave it, in 1995, the status of UNESCO World Heritage.
Young religious apprentices walk through the Wat Xieng Thong temple.
They justify the presence and permanent work of French, Japanese and Lao architects.
Very little has changed in these parts since the period of the largest colony which the French knew to be, on the map, between the India and China and so they called Indochina.
Cut off from the capitalist frenzy of its Southeast Asian neighbors, Luang Prabang breathes fresh air.
It radiates calm and spirituality, stirred only by visitors who, depending on the rainy season of the year, arrive one after the other.
Luang Prabang's Francophone Legacy
Set along a peninsula at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, the historical and cultural heart of the city still boasts refinement today. from the houses Lao wood and bamboo and French colonial buildings of brick and stucco.
On the main street, Thanon Sisavangvong, almost all the ground floor have given way to cafes, restaurants, bars and other small businesses, tastefully decorated and, here and there, anachronistic Francophone influences, as the little Prince embarrassed that we came across a picturesque creperie.
In addition to the introduction of electricity and the growing number of cars and other vehicles, rush hour continues when students leave schools and the streets are filled with kids in white and blue uniforms, walking and cycling.
During the remaining hours of the day, it is the orange tone of the monks' clothing that stands out the most and embodies the strongest brand image of Buddhism.
Buddhist monks' costumes dry in a monastery in Luang Prabang.
Wherever we go, we pass temples and shrines, some true complexes that group elegant and grandiose buildings adorned with noble materials.
Hundreds of religious apprentices who receive the sacred teachings and are subject to the shared obligation of earthly tasks live in the community: taking care of the temples and surrounding gardens, washing clothes and dishes, preparing the ceremonies.
We meet again the same passengers from the Mekong boat at Talat Dala, the city market where dozens of Hmong, Mien and Tai women flock every day, skilled sellers of blankets, rugs and other artifacts distinctive to their tribes.
Women organize loads of dried vegetables at a river dock in Luang Prabang
From Thanon Sisavangvong Avenue to Tropical Beira do Mekong
Lunchtime arrives and the heat punishes like never before. We join the visitors from the four corners of the world who exchange adventures from their last trips on Thanon Sisavangvong Avenue and share two traditional dishes accompanied by the emblematic Beer Lao.
An hour later, a few meters below, we return to the precious shade of coconut trees on the coastal street.
From there, we watched the Lao kids play about old inflated air chambers and the colorful boats that dock and set sail. Until the lazy flow of the river disturbs us and we are on our way again.
Teenager somersaults into the muddy water of the Mekong River from a bank at the foot of Luang Prabang.
We went in the opposite direction and came across the hill of Phu Si, too, it was full of temples. Hundreds of steps up, Wat Tham Phu Si appears.
This is, of all, the most scenic spot in Luang Prabang and here, every afternoon, countless sunset worshipers gather.
While recovering from the climb, the first to arrive walk around the temple and enjoy the surrounding landscape. Then, they take their place on a mini-bench and divide between gazing at the star and commenting on the fatigue of those next to climb the long staircase to the hill.
The sunset is impressive and raises a collective applause. Gradually, those lucky enough to be on vacation or on a gap year return to the animation of the central streets that are already waiting to serve them dinner.
Once again at the table, we heard from other backpackers cheerful remarks about the accumulated fatigue and expressions of admiration for the mystical beauty of Laos.
A propaganda poster for the government of Laos combines traditional values of the country with a desired modernity.
An Australian woman, in particular, shows great difficulty in conforming: “well, you are right. But how is it possible for a country like this to have had its back turned to the world? "
