Tenerife, Canary Islands

The Volcano that Haunts the Atlantic


Los Roques de Garcia
The rock formation of Roques de Garcia, in the middle of the Llanos de Ucanca plain.
TF-21
Cars travel the long straight of the TF 21 road that crosses the Las Cañadas caldera.
falling sun
Sun rays refract on an uneven slope of the Caldeira Las Cañadas.
Above all
The massive cone of the Teide volcano (3718m), the highest mountain in the Canaries, Spain and the Atlantic islands.
Paragliders
Paragliders soar above the valley north of the Teide volcano, with Puerto de la Cruz and the Atlantic in the background.
Bread of sugar
Today's main crater and summit of the Teide volcano, known as Pan de Azúcar.
Lava drains
Patches of solidified lava that once flowed from the main crater of the El Teide volcano.
rolling sunset
Sun about to set behind a cloak of Calima. Dry, dusty mist from the Sahara Desert.
The Lava Vegetation
Resilient vegetation survives the aridity of lava from the Caldeira las Cañadas.
The Resisting Snow
Snow contrasts with the ancestral lava from the Las Cañadas caldera of the Teide volcano.
Sugar Pan
Casal walks along a trail at the base of the Pan de Azucar summit crater.
Tarta del Teide
Motorbike takes the hook of the TF-21 road in front of Tarta del Teide, a peculiar geological formation.
The Dragon Tree and the Volcano
Icod's old dragon tree gleams with age, with the much older El Teide volcano in the background.
El Teide Volcano
The top of the great El Teide volcano, the roof of the Canaries, Spain and all the islands in the Atlantic.
With the Great Sun in the West
PN El Teide visitor photographs the plain of Llano de Ucanca.
Paragliders II
Paragliders hover above the meanders of the TF-21 road where Tarta del Teide hides.
Privileged View
An outstanding view of the surrounding pine forest to the cone of the volcano Teide.
At 3718m, El Teide is the roof of the Canaries and Spain. Not only. If measured from the ocean floor (7500 m), only two mountains are more pronounced. The Guanche natives considered it the home of Guayota, their devil. Anyone traveling to Tenerife knows that old Teide is everywhere.

We left a mere minutes after the sun set behind the horizon.

We were advancing along the crest of Tenerife's imperfect triangle above. Left behind La Esperanza and Lomo Pesado, the road cuts through the vast pine forest that has long dominated the island's intermediate slopes.

For a long time, we see little more than the secular trunks, branches and acicular foliage of the pine canariensis.

The extra-purified, lugubrious and mysterious atmosphere arouses an inevitable morning curiosity. At the wheel, Juan Miguel Delporte enlightens us on an assortment of eras and themes, from colonial times when the conquerors confronted the indigenous guanchinet, to the contemporaries in which multimillion-dollar international cycling teams move from bicycles and luggage to Tenerife.

The times they carry out training at altitude there are crucial to their disputed ambition of triumphing in the Pyrenean, Alpine and Apennine stages of the Tour de France, the Tour d'Italia and the Tour de España, to mention just the main ones.

On both sides of the asphalt, successive aquifers gain volume on the north and south slopes below. In either direction, its final destination is the same, the great Atlantic, still sub-tropical but with waters much warmer than those that bathe Iberia.

We were in the middle of Estio. It had been a long time since a rain worthy of the name had replenished the natural reservoir of Tenerife.

The Inagurual Sighting of Colosso Teide

A few kilometers ahead, the Hope Road and Juan Miguel reveal to us the first of several privileged observation points of the great El Teide peak (3718m).

We went up a small hill. We got rid of the pine forest dictatorship. Onwards, to the southwest, we find the cone of the volcano highlighted on a green base, with its ferrous brown out of step with the sky-blue vastness.

In the lower half of the slope below the mountain, generated by gravitational slide, a whitewashed village thickened with the proximity of the darkest blue of the sea.

Juan Miguel had already warned us before. “This has changed and for you it's not good. The day is not as clear as yesterday. During the night the calima came back in." The phenomenon comes with the particular summer of Canary Islands.

Sometimes it happens way out of season. The dry and torrid weather of the south gains supremacy. invade the Islands closer to Africa, especially from Lanzarote to Tenerife. Except the northern ones, like La Palma. It takes over a large part of the archipelago, laden with dust and fine sands taken from the Sara.

As we usually saw it from July onwards, the name of the island used by the Romans makes no sense, Nivaria, according to the snow cover they got used to seeing in the upper section of the mountain, on the clearest days of the year, even from the African coast, the Carthaginians, the Numídios, the Phoenician navigators were also dazzled by its glimpse.

The Romans were not the first to be inspired by it. Despite the rule of Rome and the expansion of the empire to the western ends of the Old World, the baptism that prevailed has an indigenous origin.

Dragoeiro Icod and El Teide volcano, Tenerife, Canary Islands

Teide Volcano in the distance, with Icod's dragon tree in the foreground.

The enigmatic Guanche Exclusivity of Tenerife and the Canaries

The Guanches called her Tene (mountain) ife (white). It is said that it was the Castilian colonists who later, in order to facilitate their pronunciation, added the error between the two terms.

As Juan Miguel elucidates us, the great enigma is how the Guanches ended up in Tenerife and the other Canaries they inhabited. Upon the arrival of European settlers, no other island in Macaronesia was inhabited.

Even taking into account the relative proximity of the Canaries to the west coast of Africa – 300 km from Tenerife, just over 100 km from Lanzarote – and the proven Berber genetics of the Guanches, remains to be seen how they managed to reach the archipelago with cattle, other domestic animals when they did not have the knowledge to build vessels that would ensure the voyage.

Archaeological finds and organic remains that science dated back to half a millennium BC or even older indicate that, in one way or another, the Guanches will have completed the crossing.

Teide Volcano: Geological Origin and Guanche Mythology

By that time, the great El Teide had long been projecting above Tenerife and the Canary firmament.

The dating of an island is almost always inaccurate but, according to scientific studies, it must have been massive underwater eruptions from about 25 million years ago that generated the archipelago.

Tenerife, in particular, was formed through an accretion process of three huge volcanoes shield, initially on an island with three peninsulas added to a massive volcano, Las Cañadas.

At the time when Tenerife welcomed them, the Guanche cultivated the mythological meaning of the mountain that always seemed to guard them. Without great doubts, spectators and victims of more than one eruption or different volcanic manifestation, the aborigines got used to fear the volcano.

They called it hell, in their dialect, Echeyde, the a term the Castilians quickly adapted to El Teide.

For the Guanche, Echeyde Mountain was the sacred abode of Guayota, the evil demon. They believed that Guayota would have kidnapped Magec, the god of light and sun that he imprisoned inside the volcano, casting his world into obscurity, unsurprisingly the mystification of the phenomenon caused by a significant eruption that, like so many others throughout history, by releasing clouds of ash and dust, it will have blocked the sun.

Always apprehensive about what the volcano had in store for them, the Guanches deepened their mythology. The missionaries who later accompanied the European settlers recorded what the natives told them, that their people had begged forgiveness from Achaman, their God of all gods.

This one, agreed. After intense combat, Achamán triumphed over Guayota. He rescued Magec from the depths of Echeyde, closed the hell crater, and imprisoned Guayota within.

The salvage cap, now identified as the Pilón or Pan de Azucar sub-cone, crowned by the smaller crater of Pico del Teide, has not seen eruptions again. Others took place, with reduced expression, in different areas of the huge volcano. Some took place in the middle of the colonial era.

Cristovão Colombo's In-Person Testimony, an Eruption on the Way to the Americas

On August 24, 1492, hours before setting sail for the West Indies and hitting the Americas, Cristovão Colombo narrated in his logbook: “He set sail the next day and spent the night near Tenerife, from whose summit, which is very high, they saw great flames coming out which, astonishing their people, made them understand the foundation and cause of the fire, adding for respect the example of Mount Etna, in Sicily, and several others where the same was seen. ”

Scientists have come to the conclusion that, on that date, Columbus and his sailors will have witnessed the eruption of Boca del Cangrejo, in the south of the island.

It would have been the fifth of Tenerife's historic eruptions, none of them coming from the main crater of Mount Teide. Others followed in the period 1704-1706, recorded in Fasnia, in Siete Fuentes and which caused heavy destruction in the houses on the seafront of Garachico.

One of Pico Viejo, known as Chahorra, between the beginning of June and September 1798. The last was in 1909, from the secondary volcano of Chinyero. We would have to go through these volcanic focuses on Tenerife.

Until then, we proceed through the TF-24 route.

Soon, free of the green shade of the pine trees, dazzled by the geological wall formed by several layers of lava flows, of different textures and tones, in such a way that it received the informal name of Tarte do Teide.

This pie has its own two viewpoints, both revealing the magnificence of the stratovolcano, even more towering over the immense valley shared by La Orotava, Puerto de La Cruz and several other cities, towns, villages, hamlets.

We stop at one of the viewpoints.

From there, we enjoyed a squad of paragliders rising and gliding, in delicious ellipses between the observatory of the Instituto de Astrophysics of the Canary Islands and the ocean floor, much of the time, with the cone of the mountain in the background.

From the Grand Domain of the Las Cañadas Caldera to the Top of Pan de Azúcar

As the sun also ascended to its zenith, the haze intensified. When we enter the domain of the Las Cañadas caldera, formed by the collapse of the homonymous volcano, its dry mist disappoints us.

We strive to ignore photographic adversity.

We point to the Tabonal Negro sector and then to the base of the cable car that connects 2.356 meters to 3.555 meters from the almost top of the main crater, at the foot of the Pilón de Azucar summit.

We are dedicated to following two main trails laid in basalt, irregular to match and that furrow a rough, even sharp, lava environment between ocher and brownish tones.

We followed what led to the Pico Viejo observation point.

And, on the way back, this led to the viewpoint of the Fortaleza, revealing the northern edge of the Las Cañadas caldera and much of the northern coast of Tenerife.

Together, the two opposing panoramas and the one granted by the trail that connected the starting points, revealed to us a geological imposingness for millions of years in the heart of the island.

In different directions, the boiler was covered with different lava flows, some only stopped by the inner side of its edge.

Moments later, we inaugurated the 1200 meters of cable car descent that emulated lava. Gradually, the cabin brought us back to the TF-21 line.

Ocaso in Calima, in Volta dos Roques de Garcia

 

Once again for its asphalt, we aim at the southwest corner of the caldera. We leave the road for the open view of the Llano de Ucanca.

Leaning on the parapet fence that separates the road from the plain, we enjoy the western sun hiding behind a sharp patch of caldera and, at the same time, the gradual orangeing of the rival rocks of Roques de Garcia.

A wedding photographer struggled to photograph a couple in the middle of the road in that subdued light.

Sooner than we estimated, the atmospheric background of calima began to take over the great star.

When we look for it already at the La Ruleta lookout, its yellowish ball shines from the blackened sky and seems to roll over the top of the silhouette among the Roques.

Two lovers seated on a convenient slab, let themselves be infected by the volcanic and cosmic romanticism of the moment.

La Palma, Canary IslandsSpain (España)

The Most Mediatic of the Cataclysms to Happen

The BBC reported that the collapse of a volcanic slope on the island of La Palma could generate a mega-tsunami. Whenever the area's volcanic activity increases, the media take the opportunity to scare the world.
La Palma, Canary Islands

The "Isla Bonita" of the Canary Islands

In 1986 Madonna Louise Ciccone launched a hit that popularized the attraction exerted by a island imaginary. Ambergris Caye, in Belize, reaped benefits. On this side of the Atlantic, the palmeros that's how they see their real and stunning Canaria.
Santa Cruz de La Palma, Canary Islands

A Journey into the History of Santa Cruz de La Palma

It began as a mere Villa del Apurón. Come the century. XVI, the town had not only overcome its difficulties, it was already the third port city in Europe. Heir to this blessed prosperity, Santa Cruz de La Palma has become one of the most elegant capitals in the Canaries.
Lanzarote, Canary Islands

To César Manrique what is César Manrique's

By itself, Lanzarote would always be a Canaria by itself, but it is almost impossible to explore it without discovering the restless and activist genius of one of its prodigal sons. César Manrique passed away nearly thirty years ago. The prolific work he left shines on the lava of the volcanic island that saw him born.
Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

Fuerteventura's Atlantic Ventura

The Romans knew the Canaries as the lucky islands. Fuerteventura, preserves many of the attributes of that time. Its perfect beaches for the windsurf and the kite-surfing or just for bathing, they justify successive “invasions” by the sun-hungry northern peoples. In the volcanic and rugged interior, the bastion of the island's indigenous and colonial cultures remains. We started to unravel it along its long south.
El Hierro, Canary Islands

The Volcanic Rim of the Canaries and the Old World

Until Columbus arrived in the Americas, El Hierro was seen as the threshold of the known world and, for a time, the Meridian that delimited it. Half a millennium later, the last western island of the Canaries is teeming with exuberant volcanism.
La Graciosa, Canary Islands

The Most Graceful of the Canary Islands

Until 2018, the smallest of the inhabited Canaries did not count for the archipelago. Arriving in La Graciosa, we discover the insular charm of the now eighth island.
PN Timanfaya, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

PN Timanfaya and the Fire Mountains of Lanzarote

Between 1730 and 1736, out of nowhere, dozens of volcanoes in Lanzarote erupted successively. The massive amount of lava they released buried several villages and forced almost half of the inhabitants to emigrate. The legacy of this cataclysm is the current Martian setting of the exuberant PN Timanfaya.
Capelinhos Volcano, Faial, Azores

On the trail of the Capelinhos Mistery

From one coast of the island to the opposite one, through the mists, patches of pasture and forests typical of the Azores, we discover Faial and the Mystery of its most unpredictable volcano.
Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Around the Fogo Island

Time and the laws of geomorphology dictated that the volcano-island of Fogo rounded off like no other in Cape Verde. Discovering this exuberant Macaronesian archipelago, we circled around it against the clock. We are dazzled in the same direction.
Chã das Caldeiras, Fogo Island Cape Verde

A "French" Clan at the Mercy of Fire

In 1870, a Count born in Grenoble on his way to Brazilian exile, made a stopover in Cape Verde where native beauties tied him to the island of Fogo. Two of his children settled in the middle of the volcano's crater and continued to raise offspring there. Not even the destruction caused by the recent eruptions deters the prolific Montrond from the “county” they founded in Chã das Caldeiras.    
Pico Island, Azores

Pico Island: the Azores Volcano with the Atlantic at its Feet

By a mere volcanic whim, the youngest Azorean patch projects itself into the rock and lava apogee of Portuguese territory. The island of Pico is home to its highest and sharpest mountain. But not only. It is a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of the Azoreans who tamed this stunning island and surrounding ocean.

Valencia to Xativa, Spain (España)

Across Iberia

Leaving aside the modernity of Valencia, we explore the natural and historical settings that the "community" shares with the Mediterranean. The more we travel, the more its bright life seduces us.

Matarraña to Alcanar, Spain (España)

A Medieval Spain

Traveling through the lands of Aragon and Valencia, we come across towers and detached battlements of houses that fill the slopes. Mile after kilometer, these visions prove to be as anachronistic as they are fascinating.

Vegueta, Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

Around the Heart of the Royal Canaries

The old and majestic Vegueta de Las Palmas district stands out in the long and complex Hispanization of the Canaries. After a long period of noble expeditions, the final conquest of Gran Canaria and the remaining islands of the archipelago began there, under the command of the monarchs of Castile and Aragon.
Tenerife, Canary Islands

East of White Mountain Island

The almost triangular Tenerife has its center dominated by the majestic volcano Teide. At its eastern end, there is another rugged domain, even so, the place of the island's capital and other unavoidable villages, with mysterious forests and incredible abrupt coastlines.
Fuerteventura, Canary Islands

Fuerteventura - Canary Island and Jangada do Tempo

A short ferry crossing and we disembark in Corralejo, at the top northeast of Fuerteventura. With Morocco and Africa a mere 100km away, we get lost in the wonders of unique desert, volcanic and post-colonial sceneries.
Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

Grand Canary Islands

It is only the third largest island in the archipelago. It so impressed European navigators and settlers that they got used to treating it as the supreme.
Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

José Saramago's Basalt Raft

In 1993, frustrated by the Portuguese government's disregard for his work “The Gospel According to Jesus Christ”, Saramago moved with his wife Pilar del Río to Lanzarote. Back on this somewhat extraterrestrial Canary Island, we visited his home. And the refuge from the portuguese censorship that haunted the writer.
Lion, Elephants, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe
safari
PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.
Herd in Manang, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 8th Manang, Nepal

Manang: the Last Acclimatization in Civilization

Six days after leaving Besisahar we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). Located at the foot of the Annapurna III and Gangapurna Mountains, Manang is the civilization that pampers and prepares hikers for the ever-dreaded crossing of Thorong La Gorge (5416 m).
Architecture & Design
napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s – Old-Fashioned Car Tour

In a city rebuilt in Art Deco and with an atmosphere of the "crazy years" and beyond, the adequate means of transportation are the elegant classic automobiles of that era. In Napier, they are everywhere.
Adventure
Boat Trips

For Those Becoming Internet Sick

Hop on and let yourself go on unmissable boat trips like the Philippine archipelago of Bacuit and the frozen sea of ​​the Finnish Gulf of Bothnia.
Parade and Pomp
Ceremonies and Festivities
Saint Petersburg, Russia

When the Russian Navy Stations in Saint Petersburg

Russia dedicates the last Sunday of July to its naval forces. On that day, a crowd visits large boats moored on the Neva River as alcohol-drenched sailors seize the city.
4th of July Fireworks-Seward, Alaska, United States
Cities
Seward, Alaska

The Longest 4th of July

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Meal
World Food

Gastronomy Without Borders or Prejudice

Each people, their recipes and delicacies. In certain cases, the same ones that delight entire nations repel many others. For those who travel the world, the most important ingredient is a very open mind.
Karanga ethnic musicians join the ruins of Great Zimbabwe, Zimbabwe
Culture
Great ZimbabweZimbabwe

Great Zimbabwe, Little Bira Dance

Karanga natives of the KwaNemamwa village display traditional Bira dances to privileged visitors to the ruins of Great Zimbabwe. the most iconic place in Zimbabwe, the one who, after the decree of colonial Rhodesia's independence, inspired the name of the new and problematic nation.  
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Sport
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
Namibe, Angola, Cave, Iona Park
Traveling
Namibe, Angola

Incursion to the Angolan Namibe

Discovering the south of Angola, we leave Moçâmedes for the interior of the desert province. Over thousands of kilometers over land and sand, the harshness of the scenery only reinforces the astonishment of its vastness.
Promise?
Ethnic
Goa, India

To Goa, Quickly and in Strength

A sudden longing for Indo-Portuguese tropical heritage makes us travel in various transports but almost non-stop, from Lisbon to the famous Anjuna beach. Only there, at great cost, were we able to rest.
ice tunnel, black gold route, Valdez, Alaska, USA
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Sensations vs Impressions

Vila Velha Paraná, Paraná Tropeirismo Route
History
Vila Velha Park a Castro, Paraná

On the Paraná Tropeirismo Route

Between Ponta Grossa and Castro, we travel in Campos Gerais do Paraná and throughout its history. For the past of the settlers and drovers who put the region on the map. Even that of Dutch immigrants who, in more recent times and, among many others, enriched the ethnic assortment of this Brazilian state.
Drums and Tattoos
Islands
Tahiti, French Polynesia

Tahiti Beyond the Cliché

Neighbors Bora Bora and Maupiti have superior scenery but Tahiti has long been known as paradise and there is more life on the largest and most populous island of French Polynesia, its ancient cultural heart.
Geothermal, Iceland Heat, Ice Land, Geothermal, Blue Lagoon
Winter White
Iceland

The Geothermal Coziness of the Ice Island

Most visitors value Iceland's volcanic scenery for its beauty. Icelanders also draw from them heat and energy crucial to the life they lead to the Arctic gates.
View from the top of Mount Vaea and the tomb, Vailima village, Robert Louis Stevenson, Upolu, Samoa
Literature
Upolu, Samoa

Stevenson's Treasure Island

At age 30, the Scottish writer began looking for a place to save him from his cursed body. In Upolu and the Samoans, he found a welcoming refuge to which he gave his heart and soul.
Victoria Falls, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Zambezi
Nature
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwee

Livingstone's Thundering Gift

The explorer was looking for a route to the Indian Ocean when natives led him to a jump of the Zambezi River. The falls he found were so majestic that he decided to name them in honor of his queen
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Alcatraz Island, California, United States
Natural Parks
Alcatraz, San Francisco, USA

Back to the Rock

Forty years after his sentence ended, the former Alcatraz prison receives more visitors than ever. A few minutes of his seclusion explain why The Rock's imagination made the worst criminals shiver.
Kayaking on Lake Sinclair, Cradle Mountain - Lake Sinclair National Park, Tasmania, Australia
UNESCO World Heritage
Discovering tassie, Part 4 - Devonport to Strahan, Australia

Through the Tasmanian Wild West

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aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Characters
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
conversation at sunset
Beaches
Boracay, Philippines

The Philippine Beach of All Dreams

It was revealed by Western backpackers and the film crew of “Thus Heroes are Born”. Hundreds of resorts and thousands of eastern vacationers followed, whiter than the chalky sand.
Detail of the Kamakhya temple in Guwahati, Assam, India.
Religion
Guwahati, India

The City that Worships Kamakhya and the Fertility

Guwahati is the largest city in the state of Assam and in North East India. It is also one of the fastest growing in the world. For Hindus and devout believers in Tantra, it will be no coincidence that Kamakhya, the mother goddess of creation, is worshiped there.
Serra do Mar train, Paraná, airy view
On Rails
Curitiba a Morretes, Paraná, Brazil

Down Paraná, on Board the Train Serra do Mar

For more than two centuries, only a winding and narrow road connected Curitiba to the coast. Until, in 1885, a French company opened a 110 km railway. We walked along it to Morretes, the final station for passengers today. 40km from the original coastal terminus of Paranaguá.
Erika Mother
Society
Philippines

The Philippine Road Lords

With the end of World War II, the Filipinos transformed thousands of abandoned American jeeps and created the national transportation system. Today, the exuberant jeepneys are for the curves.
herd, foot-and-mouth disease, weak meat, colonia pellegrini, argentina
Daily life
Colónia Pellegrini, Argentina

When the Meat is Weak

The unmistakable flavor of Argentine beef is well known. But this wealth is more vulnerable than you think. The threat of foot-and-mouth disease, in particular, keeps authorities and growers afloat.
hippopotami, chobe national park, botswana
Wildlife
Chobe NP, Botswana

Chobe: A River on the Border of Life with Death

Chobe marks the divide between Botswana and three of its neighboring countries, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. But its capricious bed has a far more crucial function than this political delimitation.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.