PN Tayrona, Colombia

Who Protects the Guardians of the World?

Blas, an indigenous Kogi
Blas, an indigenous of the Tayrona group mixes coca leaves with shell powder in a poporo, a kind of pipe
Chairama, El Pueblito
Tayrona huts provide the preserved scenery of Chayrama.
Horse in the Shadow
Horse rests in the shade of a Pueblito (Chairama) tree.
camouflaged horse
Horse grazes in a green meadow lost in the vastness of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.
Saw Down
Indigenous kogi descends one of the stairs that serve Chayrama.
Tairona Engraving
A drawing carved into the rock found at the entrance to Chayrama.
Three brothers
Three brothers embrace at their lost house at the foot of the rise on which El Pueblito, the old Tayrona village of Chairama, is located.
Light beam
Light beam penetrates the dense jungle of Tayrona National Park
Passion fruit load
Mixed-race farmer carries passion fruit on a trail near Chayrama.
By horse
A resident rides along a trail that connects El Pueblito to the national road that crosses the Tayrona National Park.
Kogi native
A native of the Kogi ethnic group, he rests in one of the huts on the Pueblito, as Chayrama is popularly known, an old abandoned Tayrona settlement that the natives have recovered.
On my way
Tayrona native travels a jungle path around Chayrama, where he goes every day to sell artifacts.
Chairama Platform
Ceremonial platform at Chayrama, a historic Tayrona village.
Saw Down
Children descend one of the trails that wind around Chayrama, in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.
Sierra little Nevada
View from the low slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the coastline that rises the fastest from the coast in the world, from sea level to 5700m from the Cristobal Colón and Simón Bolivar peaks.
The natives of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta believe that their mission is to save the Cosmos from the “Younger Brothers”, which are us. But the real question seems to be, "Who protects them?"

We admire, over the sand, the geological eccentricity of that lush setting.

While on our shores, the waves break with Caribbean smoothness, onward, the overgrown mountains rise steeply above the clouds.

Although the fog does not allow us to glimpse its final peaks – Cristobal Cólon and Simón Bolívar – it amazes us to know that, in less than 42 km, the Sierra Nevada rises from sea level to an altitude of 5.700 meters that justifies its baptism.

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

View from the low slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the coastline that rises the fastest from the coast in the world, from sea level to 5700m from the Cristobal Colón and Simón Bolivar peaks.

And even more the awareness that the sacred world of the Tayrona civilization is located there, represented and defended today by 45.000 individuals belonging to three esoteric peoples: the Kogi, the Wiwa, the Arhuaco. And to another one much more integrated into the modern reality of Colombia, the Kancuamo.

Until the beginning of the XNUMXth century, the Tayrona occupied the entire vast tropical area nestled between the coast and the summits.

They grew demographically and prospered. They were also masters in the art of working gold and creating precious objects that they used for spiritual purposes.

To their unexpected detriment, when the Spaniards arrived in that part of the world, both gold and these artifacts abounded.

Downhill, PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

Indigenous kogi descends one of the stairs that serve Chayrama.

Tayrona's Tragedy of the Disembarkation of the Spaniards

In 1525, the conqueror Rodrigo de Bastidas he had already realized the riches he could steal from the natives. In order to facilitate your diversion to the spanish crown, founded the city of Santa Marta, at the entrance of the homonymous mountain range.

The indigenous resistance proved to be fierce. At the end of the XNUMXth century, the Tayrona civilization was defeated and “pushed” by the invaders almost to the snowy heights of the mountain range.

There, he took refuge from the attacks and illnesses of the Europeans and, until today, he protected his “cosmic” knowledge, based on a balance between the potential of the mind and spirit with the natural forces.

Engraving, PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

A drawing carved into the rock found at the entrance to Chayrama.

When we leave the beach, the power of those same forces assaults us. We are in the middle of the rainy season in the Colombian Caribbean. Without any warning, pitch-black clouds take over the sky and release a flood of water that reduces visibility to almost nothing.

Lacking shelter to protect us, we continued to walk through the jungle, soaking wet, amid slipping and stumbling on the protruding roots of trees and bushes.

As quickly as it had arrived, the storm is exhausted. The clouds open up to a scorching sun that dries us up in three stages.

Reheated, we continue to climb towards Chairama, one of the largest Tayrona settlements at the time of the arrival of the Spaniards with more than two hundred and fifty terraces erected over the jungle and a population of 3000 natives.

The settlers got used to calling it El Pueblito.

Chairama, PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

Tayrona huts provide the preserved scenery of Chayrama.

The Long Colombian Chaos That Threatened the Survival of the Tayrona Indigenous

The proximity of the coast and vulnerability to Spanish attacks, dictated the early withdrawal of the population of Chairama and abandonment to plunder and nature. Such abandonment has only been stopped recently by the alleviation of the political-military situation in this area of ​​Colombia and because the government has finally begun to value the country's unique historical and ethnic heritage.

Thanks to its greater isolation, today the most emblematic Tayrona village is Teyuna, the mysterious Ciudad Perdida, located three days' walk from Chairama.

From its discovery in 1975, Teyuna gave rise to what became known as Infierno Verde, an authentic war between groups of artifact thieves (the guaqueros) which lasted for several years.

Despite looting and many other traumas, the descendants of their builders survived. They returned to inhabit the area and descend the Chairama and the Colombian villages on the side of the road where they interact with the Colombian “invaders”.

Passion Fruits, PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

Mixed-race farmer carries passion fruit on a trail near Chayrama.

Serra Cima, on the way to Chairama, El Pueblito

The climb to Chairama proves steeper than expected. Even demanding, dozens of different people walk that path every day, dedicated to their tasks.

Among other passersby, we come across a Creole farmer carrying a huge sack of passion fruit. And for casa straddled by a peasant family in which three restless brothers are at war.

3 brothers, PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

Three brothers embrace at their lost house at the foot of the rise on which El Pueblito, the old Tayrona village of Chairama, is located.

Further up the mountain, we come across the first Kogi and Arhuaco Indians, whom we easily identify by their white clothes and their long dark hair.

We exchanged a few casual words in Castilian but these peoples are known for saying only what is strictly necessary and for the justified suspicion with which they approach the contacts of outsiders.

Stephen Ferry, a National Geographic reporter who visited their high Sierra Nevada retreats and attended the ceremonies of the Mamas (priests) describes some more concrete examples: “…when Mamas communicate, you immediately realize that their references don't belong to our world western.

A Pure Conception of the World. And Tayrona's Duty of Defending the Unconscious of Whites

They mention the Spanish conquest as if it had just happened. They speak openly of the force of creation, or Se, the spiritual center of all existence. It's from student, the thought, soul and imagination of men …”

Also according to Ferry's description, the Kogi, the Arhuaco, and the Wiwa consider that the really valuable things are underlying the meanings and connections that can be drawn from the palpable realities of the world.

His cosmology contemplates, for example, a universe made up of nine layers. The temple in which they meet also has nine steps, as there are nine months in the gestation of a child.

PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

Children descend one of the trails that wind around Chayrama, in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

For them, a hill can be seen as a house, the hair on the human body as the trees in the forest. Men's white hats arhuaco they represent the snowfields of the summits in which they live while the whole of their mountains form the Cosmos.

The Sierra Nevada Indians consider themselves the elder brothers, genuine guardians of the planet and their mountain the “Heart of the World”. They also see the foreign settlers as the younger brothers.

In a rare BBC documentary in which they agreed to participate “The Elder Brothers' Warning”, the Mamas warn that they will not maintain the condescending attitude they have defended forever: “Until now we have ignored the Younger Brother. We didn't even deign to spank him. But we can't continue to take care of the world alone… “

Beam of Light, PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

Light beam penetrates the dense jungle of Tayrona National Park

The Colombian Civil War, Cocaine and All the Devastation They Generated

Until a few decades ago, the descendants of the Tayrona ethnic groups saw their mission of spiritual protection in the world increasingly complicated.

Cocaine producers, guerrillas, paramilitaries and the Colombian army seized their lands or trespassed on them and confronted each other and disturbed the natural harmony of things.

In the late 90s, the Colombian government began to control the situation. It gradually defeated the private armies, fumigated the coca plantations and granted pardons and support for conversion. Many cocaine producers took advantage of this offer.

On horseback, PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

A resident rides along a trail that connects El Pueblito to the national road that crosses the Tayrona National Park.

The success of military operations nullified the guerrilla and provided new opportunities. Like the one used by Luís and Richard Velázquez, who joined Plan Colombia and joined “their” dear Asociación Posadas Ecoturísticas.

As Richard Velazquez told us, “These are cambios muy chéveres” adjective that can be interpreted as “in the way”.

Nevertheless, among many others, the peoples of Tayrona descendants continue to feel the pressure of conventional farmers who seek their land to cultivate bananas and oil palms. It is also known, beforehand, that the cocaine issue is never really resolved.

On our way back from Pueblito, we once again met indigenous people. Blas is the second and most mysterious. We exchanged greetings and a short dialogue. Soon, the three of us were resting by a stream.

Kogi, PN Tayrona, Guardians of the World, Colombia

Blas, an indigenous of the Tayrona group mixes coca leaves with shell powder in a poporo, a kind of pipe

When we questioned him about the fatigue of the trips to and from Chairama, routes he takes to sell handicrafts to the few visitors to the village, we extract an elementary and apparently alienated explanation from him.

As soon as he can, Blas indulges in a fresh refill of coca leaves and crushed shells. Fill your poporo (gourd) and return us to the sounds of the jungle.

We feel the energy of nature and the absolute peace of mind of the native.

And we cannot help but think about who will save the Tayrona Indians from the unconsciousness of their younger brothers.

Santa Marta and PN Tayrona, Colombia

The Paradise from which Simon Bolivar departed

At the gates of PN Tayrona, Santa Marta is the oldest continuously inhabited Hispanic city in Colombia. In it, Simón Bolívar began to become the only figure on the continent almost as revered as Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary.
Machu Picchu, Peru

The City Lost in the Mystery of the Incas

As we wander around Machu Picchu, we find meaning in the most accepted explanations for its foundation and abandonment. But whenever the complex is closed, the ruins are left to their enigmas.
Mount Roraima, Venezuela

Time Travel to the Lost World of Mount Roraima

Persist on top of Mte. Roraima extraterrestrial scenarios that have withstood millions of years of erosion. Conan Doyle created, in "The Lost World", a fiction inspired by the place but never set foot on it.
Cartagena de Indias, Colombia

The Desired City

Many treasures passed through Cartagena before being handed over to the Spanish Crown - more so than the pirates who tried to plunder them. Today, the walls protect a majestic city always ready to "rumbear".
San Ignacio Mini, Argentina

The Impossible Jesuit Missions of San Ignacio Mini

In the century. In the XNUMXth century, the Jesuits expanded a religious domain in the heart of South America by converting the Guarani Indians into Jesuit missions. But the Iberian Crowns ruined the tropical utopia of the Society of Jesus.
Yucatan, Mexico

The End of the End of the World

The announced day passed but the End of the World insisted on not arriving. In Central America, today's Mayans watched and put up with incredulity all the hysteria surrounding their calendar.
Albuquerque, USA

When the Drums Sound, the Indians Resist

With more than 500 tribes present, the pow wow "Gathering of the Nations" celebrates the sacred remnants of Native American cultures. But it also reveals the damage inflicted by colonizing civilization.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Mount Lamjung Kailas Himal, Nepal, altitude sickness, mountain prevent treat, travel
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 2th - Chame a Upper BananaNepal

(I) Eminent Annapurnas

We woke up in Chame, still below 3000m. There we saw, for the first time, the snowy and highest peaks of the Himalayas. From there, we set off for another walk along the Annapurna Circuit through the foothills and slopes of the great mountain range. towards Upper Banana.
Visitors at Talisay Ruins, Negros Island, Philippines
Architecture & Design
Talisay City, Philippines

Monument to a Luso-Philippine Love

At the end of the 11th century, Mariano Lacson, a Filipino farmer, and Maria Braga, a Portuguese woman from Macau, fell in love and got married. During the pregnancy of what would be her 2th child, Maria succumbed to a fall. Destroyed, Mariano built a mansion in his honor. In the midst of World War II, the mansion was set on fire, but the elegant ruins that endured perpetuate their tragic relationship.
Boat Trips

For Those Becoming Internet Sick

Hop on and let yourself go on unmissable boat trips like the Philippine archipelago of Bacuit and the frozen sea of ​​the Finnish Gulf of Bothnia.
Dragon Dance, Moon Festival, Chinatown-San Francisco-United States of America
Ceremonies and Festivities
San Francisco, USA

with the head on the moon

September comes and Chinese people around the world celebrate harvests, abundance and unity. San Francisco's enormous Sino-Community gives itself body and soul to California's biggest Moon Festival.
Saint George, Grenada, Antilles, houses
Saint George, Granada

A Caribbean History Detonation

The peculiar Saint George spreads along the slope of an inactive volcano and around a U-shaped cove. Its abundant and undulating houses attest to the wealth generated over the centuries on the island of Grenada, of which it is the capital.
young saleswoman, nation, bread, uzbekistan
Fergana Valley, Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan, The Nation That Does Not Lack Bread

Few countries employ cereals like Uzbekistan. In this republic of Central Asia, bread plays a vital and social role. The Uzbeks produce it and consume it with devotion and in abundance.
Easter Seurassari, Helsinki, Finland, Marita Nordman
Helsinki, Finland

The Pagan Passover of Seurasaari

In Helsinki, Holy Saturday is also celebrated in a Gentile way. Hundreds of families gather on an offshore island, around lit fires to chase away evil spirits, witches and trolls
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
cheap flights, buy cheap flights, cheap airline tickets,
Travel does not cost

Buy Flights Before Prices Take Off

Getting cheap flights has become almost a science. Stay on top of the basics why the airline fares market governs and avoid the financial discomfort of buying at a bad time.
Tulum, Mayan Ruins of the Riviera Maya, Mexico
Overall, Mexico

The Most Caribbean of the Mayan Ruins

Built by the sea as an exceptional outpost decisive for the prosperity of the Mayan nation, Tulum was one of its last cities to succumb to Hispanic occupation. At the end of the XNUMXth century, its inhabitants abandoned it to time and to an impeccable coastline of the Yucatan peninsula.
Portfolio, Got2Globe, Best Images, Photography, Images, Cleopatra, Dioscorides, Delos, Greece
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

The Earthly and the Celestial

Composition on Nine Arches Bridge, Ella, Sri Lanka
Yala NPElla-Kandy, Sri Lanka

Journey Through Sri Lanka's Tea Core

We leave the seafront of PN Yala towards Ella. On the way to Nanu Oya, we wind on rails through the jungle, among plantations in the famous Ceylon. Three hours later, again by car, we enter Kandy, the Buddhist capital that the Portuguese never managed to dominate.
View of La Graciosa de Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain
La Graciosa, Canary Islands

The Most Graceful of the Canary Islands

Until 2018, the smallest of the inhabited Canaries did not count for the archipelago. Arriving in La Graciosa, we discover the insular charm of the now eighth island.
Correspondence verification
Winter White
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
José Saramago in Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain, Glorieta de Saramago
Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

José Saramago's Basalt Raft

In 1993, frustrated by the Portuguese government's disregard for his work “The Gospel According to Jesus Christ”, Saramago moved with his wife Pilar del Río to Lanzarote. Back on this somewhat extraterrestrial Canary Island, we visited his home. And the refuge from the portuguese censorship that haunted the writer.
Traveler above Jökursarlón icy lagoon, Iceland
Jökursarlón Lagoon, Vatnajökull Glacier, Iceland

The Faltering of Europe's King Glacier

Only in Greenland and Antarctica are glaciers comparable to Vatnajökull, the supreme glacier of the old continent. And yet, even this colossus that gives more meaning to the term ice land is surrendering to the relentless siege of global warming.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
ala juumajarvi lake, oulanka national park, finland
Natural Parks
Kuusamo ao PN Oulanka, Finland

Under the Arctic's Icy Spell

We are at 66º North and at the gates of Lapland. In these parts, the white landscape belongs to everyone and to no one like the snow-covered trees, the atrocious cold and the endless night.
Angra do Heroísmo, Terceira, Azores, from historic capital to World Heritage, urban art
UNESCO World Heritage
Angra do Heroismo, Terceira (Azores), Azores

Heroina do Mar, from Noble People, Brave and Immortal City

Angra do Heroísmo is much more than the historic capital of the Azores, Terceira Island and, on two occasions, Portugal. 1500km from the mainland, it gained a leading role in Portuguese nationality and independence that few other cities can boast.
Heroes Acre Monument, Zimbabwe
Harare, Zimbabwewe

The Last Rales of Surreal Mugabué

In 2015, Zimbabwe's first lady Grace Mugabe said the 91-year-old president would rule until the age of 100 in a special wheelchair. Shortly thereafter, it began to insinuate itself into his succession. But in recent days, the generals have finally precipitated the removal of Robert Mugabe, who has replaced him with former Vice President Emmerson Mnangagwa.
Viti Levu, Fiji Islands, South Pacific, coral reef
Viti levu, Fiji

Islands on the edge of Islands

A substantial part of Fiji preserves the agricultural expansions of the British colonial era. In the north and off the large island of Viti Levu, we also came across plantations that have only been named for a long time.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
End of the World Train, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
On Rails
Ushuaia, Argentina

Last Station: End of the World

Until 1947, the Tren del Fin del Mundo made countless trips for the inmates of the Ushuaia prison to cut firewood. Today, passengers are different, but no other train goes further south.

the last address

From the grandiose tombs of Novodevichy, in Moscow, to the boxed Mayan bones of Pomuch, in the Mexican province of Campeche, each people flaunts its own way of life. Even in death.
Women with long hair from Huang Luo, Guangxi, China
Daily life
Longsheng, China

Huang Luo: the Chinese Village of the Longest Hairs

In a multi-ethnic region covered with terraced rice paddies, the women of Huang Luo have surrendered to the same hairy obsession. They let the longest hair in the world grow, years on end, to an average length of 170 to 200 cm. Oddly enough, to keep them beautiful and shiny, they only use water and rice.
Ross Bridge, Tasmania, Australia
Discovering tassie, Part 3, Tasmania, Australia

Tasmania from Top to Bottom

The favorite victim of Australian anecdotes has long been the Tasmania never lost the pride in the way aussie ruder to be. Tassie remains shrouded in mystery and mysticism in a kind of hindquarters of the antipodes. In this article, we narrate the peculiar route from Hobart, the capital located in the unlikely south of the island to the north coast, the turn to the Australian continent.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.