Suzdal, Russia

Thousand Years of Old Fashioned Russia

gaudy courtship
Orthodox priests carry out a procession in honor of Saint Euthymius.
Post-Flood Cycling
Cyclists pass in front of the Convent of the Intercession.
Lada not yet deposed
Old Lada circulates along the facade of the Cathedral of the Deposition.
Orthodox conversation
Children talk on the steps that give access to the main church of the Convent of the Intercession.
blessed ride
Casal walks along a path along the facade of the Monastery of Santo Eutimio.
Wooden Churches, Country Dress
Employee in traditional dress at the Museum of Wood Architecture and Peasant Life.
faith in black
Orthodox priest greets a Mother Superior in Suzdal.
suzdal blues
Young man plays the guitar for two friends on the high bank of the Kamemka River.
Honeybeer bottles in a Suzdal store.
Paternal haste
A Suzdal resident pushes a child in a baby carriage next to a traditional colorful wooden house (isba).
The Kamenka River, in the vicinity of the Museum of Wood Architecture.
Marriage Production
Child follows a post-wedding photo session starring the couple Victoria and Vseudod.
Cossack bridegrooms
Victoria and Vseudod pose for photography in Cossack costumes.
stormy art
Painter is inspired by the bucolic landscape of Suzdal, with a Cumulus Nimbus cloud behind her.
divine fortress
Orthodox domes of the Cathedral of the Nativity, part of the Suzdal Kremlin.
In the shadow
A woman passes in front of one of Suzdal's many churches.
Orthodox Geometry
Transfiguration Cathedral and the bell tower inside the Monastery of Saint Euthymius.
Religious art
Candlelit painting inside the Cathedral of the Transfiguration, part of the Monastery of Saint Euthymius.
religious contrast
Wooden Church of St. Nicholas next to the Cathedral of the Nativity.
faith of wood
Church of the original Transfiguration in the village of Kozliatyevo and built in 1756.
It was a lavish capital when Moscow was just a rural hamlet. Along the way, it lost political relevance but accumulated the largest concentration of churches, monasteries and convents in the country of the tsars. Today, beneath its countless domes, Suzdal is as orthodox as it is monumental.

Mrs. Irina Zakharova, the matryoshka owner of the inn and hyper-attentive hostess puts the finishing touches on the kitchen.

Shortly thereafter, he incurs a lengthy briefing in Russian that delays the gastronomic adventures of his newest guests.

Alexey Kravchenko absorbs each of the lady's machine-gun words and responds as little as he can in a delicate compromise between courtesy and hunger.

Dª Irina Zakharova, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Dª Irina Zakharova prepares a breakfast in her family inn.

Barely freeing himself from the pen, he peeks into our room and gives the alert because we were waiting. “Free Kitchen!

Buckwheat, Cucumbers and Lots of Suzdal Conventual Beer

Let's go to lunch!”

For days, this easygoing petersburger has been trying to foist us, in English, such a buckwheat. We didn't have the translation present.

When we bought cereal at the supermarket, we were almost in the same ignorance. At least Alexey's theory that it was easy to prepare was proven.

A few minutes on the frying pan later, we are at the table enjoying an improvised fish meal garnished with buckwheat and vegetables that we accompany with different medovukhas, honey ciders with sweetened beer flavor.

Medovukha, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Honeybeer bottles in a Suzdal store.

This convent drink from Suzdal became a damned delicious habit that would accompany us all the way to northern Russia: Novgorod in our case; to your domicile of Saint Petersburg, with regard to the cicerone.

Alexey had placed several small, washed but unpeeled cucumbers on the table. He was devouring one after the other when he noticed that we weren't touching them: “What about the cucumbers? “ asks us indignantly.

We explained to him that we are not looking forward to it, because we shared the Portuguese notion that cucumber was indigestible and could easily ruin the afternoon of exploration that was approaching.

In his Slavic-restrained way, Alexey almost jumps out of his chair: “What? They're kidding, aren't they? I'm crazy about cucumbers and I have no idea what they're talking about. Indigestive? But it's just water. It doesn't give me any problem, quite the opposite.

By the way… in Russia, we are almost all addicts. In these parts, even more. in a few days, when the festival arrives, will be able to see how much.”

And it goes on devouring mini-cucumber after mini-cucumber.

After the meal and restoration of the kitchen for use by the other guests, we returned to discover the bucolic Suzdal.

The Special Historical and Political Statute of Suzdal

Unlike many of the medieval cities on the Golden Ring that had to give way to modernity because of their prime importance, Suzdal gained federal protection status that limited urban development.

It allowed it to remain as if frozen in time, given over to the sumptuousness and elegance of its many and varied churches and Orthodox cathedrals, monasteries and convents.

As with other buildings inside and outside the kremlin .

Church, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

A woman passes in front of one of Suzdal's many churches.

À As we walk along the banks or when we cross the bridges that cross it, we see the grace with which the river Stone it winds slowly through the village.

And how their apparent immobility reinforces the atmosphere of the time when Suzdal reached the peak.

Suzdal was the capital of several principalities, centuries after the settlers vikings have sailed up the Volga River, occupied a substantial part of western Russia, Bielorussia and Ukraine current – including these places where we walk – and founded the one they called Surdalar ou sudrdala (Southern Valley), a term that is repeated in the Nordic sagas.

Intercession Convent, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Cyclists pass in front of the Convent of the Intercession

All this took place under the leadership of a dynasty of name Rus' that would give rise à Russian nation.

Kamenka lacks the dimension and fluidity of the Volga. Even so, some less fearless descendants of the Scandinavian founders have a hard time getting into it.

We walk with a privileged view over the river when we notice a father and son afraid to dive into the freezing water.

Kamenka River, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

The Kamenka River, in the vicinity of the Museum of Wood Architecture.

Meanwhile, the family matriarch urges them on and despairs for the moment with the camera at the ready.

Later on, one of the many painters in training in the city sketches on canvas the scenarios and what happens in them. We see him sitting against the wall, under the green and gold domes that protrude from the interior.

Holy Euthymius Monastery, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Casal walks along a path along the facade of the Monastery of Santo Eutimio

Between Ancient Suzdal's Thousand-Year Wall Domes

In Suzdal, Orthodox churches and cathedrals are everywhere. Its dispersed but harmonious proliferation lends the place a strange fairy-tale look. Once we pass by the entrance to the Monastery of the Savior, we take the opportunity to learn a little more about the real story.

We examined the bell tower and the Father Superior's apartments.

We leave the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Savior for last. When we enter, five men all dressed in Matrix-black style appear to guard the entrance to the main ship.

A group of priests walks through a Suzdal garden.

In a moment of imaginative fertility, we conjectured that they were waiting for some multi-millionaire Muscovite mobster to visit their homeland.

We advance inland. We examine Orthodox religious paintings in the company of two children and parents who do the same in reverse.

Ring the bell outside. The men in black burst into the room and closed the door.

Unexpected Liturgical Chanting in Matrix Mode

It occurs to us that we could be in trouble. The “security guards” line up on a raised step leading to the altar. A lightning choral singing recital in Russian begins, amplified by the temple's perfect acoustics.

Less than two minutes later, the fabulous singing ends. We and the other adults clapped our hands, held back by the lingering wonder. Children recover from the surprise. The hurried interpreters, these, rush out the door as if nothing had happened.

The surprise events would not stop there. On one of the following days we had planned to leave early towards Bogolubovo, one of several smaller towns in the vicinity. Alexey wakes up late and delays the match.

In good time.

Baby Tour, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

A Suzdal resident pushes a child in a baby carriage next to a traditional colorful wooden house (isba).

It's already eleven in the morning when we approach the center of Suzdal.

Without expecting it, we saw a gaudy procession that enters a secluded street lined with dozens of izbas, the wooden rural houses typical of these rural areas, built without the use of metals, painted in strong tones.

We asked Alexey to park on the curb. we run to ourselves join the procession.

And An Orthodox Procession in Honor of Saint Euthymius

In the tail of the march follow male and female blesseds. It is led by sacristans and standard-bearing acolytes, followed by Orthodox priests, most of whom are bearded and grey-haired.

gaudy courtship

Orthodox priests carry out a procession in honor of Saint Euthymius.

It's uncomfortable hot but the religious wear phelons e phelonions, liturgical cassocks all black or embroidered and edged that combine gold with bright colors.

Four of these priests carry on their shoulders a small shrine also gilded wrapped in a scarlet velvety cloth.

After a few hundred meters, we found that it was a ceremony dedicated to Saint Euthymius, a 1332th century ascetic who, blessed by another more respected monk named Dionysus, won the admiration of Prince Boris Konstantinovich of Novgorod and Suzdal and, in XNUMX , founded the Monastery of the Savior, in this last village.

Respected for his deep faith, Eutimio would rise to Father Superior of the monastery, where he used that devotion to improve his ecclesiastical life.

His hagiography also describes that he prayed with Spartan discipline, sometimes in tears, and that he transposed to the monastery the cenobit lifestyle he had led years before, with the inspiring example of Dionysius.

Euthymius died in 1404. He was buried in the Cathedral of the Transfiguration. In 1547 he was canonized. His cult spread throughout the nation, with increased vigor among the Suzdal faithful.

Holy Euthymius Monastery, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Transfiguration Cathedral and the bell tower, inside the Monastery of Saint Euthymius, one of the buildings UNESCO Heritage of Suzdal

Almost all the participants in the procession sing orthodox religious psalms out loud, far more out of tune than the blitz-quintet that had frightened us before.

They sing until the procession enters the tight gate of the Synod Church of the Iberian Icon of the Mother of God, their final destination end.

The Muffled and Ecstatic Religious Ceremony of the Church of the Mother of God

The priests climb the short staircase, deposit the reliquary inside the temple and stand in front of the altar, prepared to begin the liturgy. The believers are distributed standing, behind a large chandelier and an exuberant panoply of gilded religious artefacts, wreaths and images of Saint Euthymius.

When the priest who leads the Mass begins the prayers and songs, they imitate him with dedication.

In a slow chemical mixture, the profusion of lighted candles, the many believers and the weather in the area generate a heavy breath that intensifies the mixture of the smells of burnt wax, incense and sweat.

The faithful follow the Eucharist given to God.

Orthodox priest holds the golden cross moments before the faithful at mass begin kissing it.

We enjoy communion, other rites and rituals that end shortly after believers kiss a golden crucifix that the priest who says Mass holds to his chest.

After the ceremony, the believers return to the street, followed by the priests who take the opportunity to greet the Mother Superior of the annexed convent with sentiment.

Greeting, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Orthodox priest greets a Mother Superior in Suzdal

Suzdal, a Millennial City with No Worries about Time

On this and other evenings, we enjoyed Suzdal's quiet life.

Groups of friends gathered around beers and guitars in front of a meander of the Kamenka, on the grassy backs of the market's arcades.

Convivio à Guitarra, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Young man plays the guitar for two friends on the high bank of the Kamemka River.

On the opposite side, sellers entertain themselves with long dialogues that are only interrupted when buyers of their wild fruits appear.

We see huge flocks of crows now fluttering and now perched dedicated to devouring the worms and insects on the lawn in front of the wooden church of São Nicolau.

Landing Gang, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Crows share Suzdal's grassy ground.

Over there, we still admire cumulus nimbus menacing to slip behind the projection of orthodox domes and crosses of the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin.

Nativity Cathedral, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Orthodox domes of the Cathedral of the Nativity, part of the Suzdal Kremlin.

These would be Suzdal's last days of undisputed calm.

We arrived on Saturday morning. We were delighted with the rice porridge that Dona Irina had prepared for us for breakfast.

We left Alexey once more on the seventh sleep and left on foot.

Rostov Veliky, Russia

Under the Domes of the Russian Soul

It is one of the oldest and most important medieval cities, founded during the still pagan origins of the nation of the tsars. At the end of the XNUMXth century, incorporated into the Grand Duchy of Moscow, it became an imposing center of orthodox religiosity. Today, only the splendor of kremlin Muscovite trumps the citadel of tranquil and picturesque Rostov Veliky.
Guwahati, India

The City that Worships Kamakhya and the Fertility

Guwahati is the largest city in the state of Assam and in North East India. It is also one of the fastest growing in the world. For Hindus and devout believers in Tantra, it will be no coincidence that Kamakhya, the mother goddess of creation, is worshiped there.
Novgorod, Russia

Mother Russia's Viking Grandmother

For most of the past century, the USSR authorities have omitted part of the origins of the Russian people. But history leaves no room for doubt. Long before the rise and supremacy of the tsars and the soviets, the first Scandinavian settlers founded their mighty nation in Novgorod.

The Cradle of the Official Christianity

Just 268 years after Jesus' death, a nation will have become the first to accept the Christian faith by royal decree. This nation still preserves its own Apostolic Church and some of the oldest Christian temples in the world. Traveling through the Caucasus, we visit them in the footsteps of Gregory the Illuminator, the patriarch who inspires Armenia's spiritual life.
Suzdal, Russia

Centuries of Devotion to a Devoted Monk

Euthymius was a fourteenth-century Russian ascetic who gave himself body and soul to God. His faith inspired Suzdal's religiosity. The city's believers worship him as the saint he has become.
Saint Petersburg, Russia

When the Russian Navy Stations in Saint Petersburg

Russia dedicates the last Sunday of July to its naval forces. On that day, a crowd visits large boats moored on the Neva River as alcohol-drenched sailors seize the city.
Suzdal, Russia

The Suzdal Cucumber Celebrations

With summer and warm weather, the Russian city of Suzdal relaxes from its ancient religious orthodoxy. The old town is also famous for having the best cucumbers in the nation. When July arrives, it turns the newly harvested into a real festival.
Solovetsky Islands, Russia

The Mother Island of the Gulag Archipelago

It hosted one of Russia's most powerful Orthodox religious domains, but Lenin and Stalin turned it into a gulag. With the fall of the USSR, Solovestky regains his peace and spirituality.
Saint Petersburg, Russia

On the track of "Crime and Punishment"

In St. Petersburg, we cannot resist investigating the inspiration for the base characters in Fyodor Dostoevsky's most famous novel: his own pities and the miseries of certain fellow citizens.
Saint Petersburg e Mikhaylovkoe, Russia

The Writer Who Succumbed to His Own Plot

Alexander Pushkin is hailed by many as the greatest Russian poet and the founder of modern Russian literature. But Pushkin also dictated an almost tragicomic epilogue to his prolific life.
Bolshoi Zayatsky, Russia

Mysterious Russian Babylons

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Bolshoi Solovetsky, Russia

A Celebration of the Russian Autumn of Life

At the edge of the Arctic Ocean, in mid-September, the boreal foliage glows golden. Welcomed by generous cicerones, we praise the new human times of Bolshoi Solovetsky, famous for having hosted the first of the Soviet Gulag prison camps.
Moscow, Russia

The Supreme Fortress of Russia

There were many kremlins built, over time, in the vastness of the country of the tsars. None stands out, as monumental as that of the capital Moscow, a historic center of despotism and arrogance that, from Ivan the Terrible to Vladimir Putin, for better or worse, dictated Russia's destiny.
Kronstadt, Russia

The Autumn of the Russian Island-City of All Crossroads

Founded by Peter the Great, it became the port and naval base protecting Saint Petersburg and northern Greater Russia. In March 1921, it rebelled against the Bolsheviks it had supported during the October Revolution. In this October we're going through, Kronstadt is once again covered by the same exuberant yellow of uncertainty.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

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Mount Lamjung Kailas Himal, Nepal, altitude sickness, mountain prevent treat, travel
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 2th - Chame a Upper BananaNepal

(I) Eminent Annapurnas

We woke up in Chame, still below 3000m. There we saw, for the first time, the snowy and highest peaks of the Himalayas. From there, we set off for another walk along the Annapurna Circuit through the foothills and slopes of the great mountain range. towards Upper Banana.
Architecture & Design
napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s – Old-Fashioned Car Tour

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Boat Trips

For Those Becoming Internet Sick

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Ceremonies and Festivities
Pueblos del Sur, Venezuela

The Pueblos del Sur Locainas, Their Dances and Co.

From the beginning of the XNUMXth century, with Hispanic settlers and, more recently, with Portuguese emigrants, customs and traditions well known in the Iberian Peninsula and, in particular, in northern Portugal, were consolidated in the Pueblos del Sur.
Hué, Communist City, Imperial Vietnam, Imperial Communism
Hue, Vietnam

The Red Heritage of Imperial Vietnam

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Tsukiji fish market, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo, Japan

The Fish Market That Lost its Freshness

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Horseback riding in shades of gold
El Calafate, Argentina

The New Gauchos of Patagonia

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Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

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Bark Europa, Beagle Channel, Evolution, Darwin, Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego
Beagle Channel, Argentina

Darwin and the Beagle Channel: on the Theory of the Evolution Route

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Cobá, trip to the Mayan Ruins, Pac Chen, Mayans of now
Cobá to Pac Chen, Mexico

From the Ruins to the Mayan Homes

On the Yucatan Peninsula, the history of the second largest indigenous Mexican people is intertwined with their daily lives and merges with modernity. In Cobá, we went from the top of one of its ancient pyramids to the heart of a village of our times.
ice tunnel, black gold route, Valdez, Alaska, USA
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Sensations vs Impressions

portfolio, Got2Globe, Travel photography, images, best photographs, travel photos, world, Earth
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The Divine Purification Festival

The story goes that, once, a plague devastated the population of Cape Coast of today Ghana. Only the prayers of the survivors and the cleansing of evil carried out by the gods will have put an end to the scourge. Since then, the natives have returned the blessing of the 77 deities of the traditional Oguaa region with the frenzied Fetu Afahye festival.
PN Timanfaya, Mountains of Fire, Lanzarote, Caldera del Corazoncillo
PN Timanfaya, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

PN Timanfaya and the Fire Mountains of Lanzarote

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St. Trinity Church, Kazbegi, Georgia, Caucasus
Winter White
Kazbegi, Georgia

God in the Caucasus Heights

In the 4000th century, Orthodox religious took their inspiration from a hermitage that a monk had erected at an altitude of 5047 m and perched a church between the summit of Mount Kazbek (XNUMXm) and the village at the foot. More and more visitors flock to these mystical stops on the edge of Russia. Like them, to get there, we submit to the whims of the reckless Georgia Military Road.
José Saramago in Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain, Glorieta de Saramago
Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

José Saramago's Basalt Raft

In 1993, frustrated by the Portuguese government's disregard for his work “The Gospel According to Jesus Christ”, Saramago moved with his wife Pilar del Río to Lanzarote. Back on this somewhat extraterrestrial Canary Island, we visited his home. And the refuge from the portuguese censorship that haunted the writer.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
View from John Ford Point, Monument Valley, Nacao Navajo, United States
Natural Parks
Monument Valley, USA

Indians or Cowboys?

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Cape Town, South Africa, Nelson Mandela
UNESCO World Heritage
Cape Town, South Africa

In the End: the Cape

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Earp brothers look-alikes and friend Doc Holliday in Tombstone, USA
tombstone, USA

Tombstone: the City Too Hard to Die

Silver veins discovered at the end of the XNUMXth century made Tombstone a prosperous and conflictive mining center on the frontier of the United States to Mexico. Lawrence Kasdan, Kurt Russell, Kevin Costner and other Hollywood directors and actors made famous the Earp brothers and the bloodthirsty duel of “OK Corral”. The Tombstone, which, over time, has claimed so many lives, is about to last.
Unusual bathing

south of Belize

The Strange Life in the Black Caribbean Sun

On the way to Guatemala, we see how the proscribed existence of the Garifuna people, descendants of African slaves and Arawak Indians, contrasts with that of several much more airy bathing areas.

Prayer flags in Ghyaru, Nepal
Annapurna Circuit: 4th – Upper Banana to Ngawal, Nepal

From Nightmare to Dazzle

Unbeknownst to us, we are faced with an ascent that leads us to despair. We pulled our strength as far as possible and reached Ghyaru where we felt closer than ever to the Annapurnas. The rest of the way to Ngawal felt like a kind of extension of the reward.
End of the World Train, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
On Rails
Ushuaia, Argentina

Last Station: End of the World

Until 1947, the Tren del Fin del Mundo made countless trips for the inmates of the Ushuaia prison to cut firewood. Today, passengers are different, but no other train goes further south.
In elevator kimono, Osaka, Japan
Osaka, Japan

In the Company of Mayu

Japanese nightlife is a multi-faceted, multi-billion business. In Osaka, an enigmatic couchsurfing hostess welcomes us, somewhere between the geisha and the luxury escort.
the projectionist
Daily life
Sainte-Luce, Martinique

The Nostalgic Projectionist

From 1954 to 1983, Gérard Pierre screened many of the famous films arriving in Martinique. 30 years after the closing of the room in which he worked, it was still difficult for this nostalgic native to change his reel.
Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

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The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.