Suzdal, Russia

Thousand Years of Old Fashioned Russia

gaudy courtship
Orthodox priests carry out a procession in honor of Saint Euthymius.
Post-Flood Cycling
Cyclists pass in front of the Convent of the Intercession.
Lada not yet deposed
Old Lada circulates along the facade of the Cathedral of the Deposition.
Orthodox conversation
Children talk on the steps that give access to the main church of the Convent of the Intercession.
blessed ride
Casal walks along a path along the facade of the Monastery of Santo Eutimio.
Wooden Churches, Country Dress
Employee in traditional dress at the Museum of Wood Architecture and Peasant Life.
faith in black
Orthodox priest greets a Mother Superior in Suzdal.
suzdal blues
Young man plays the guitar for two friends on the high bank of the Kamemka River.
Honeybeer bottles in a Suzdal store.
Paternal haste
A Suzdal resident pushes a child in a baby carriage next to a traditional colorful wooden house (isba).
The Kamenka River, in the vicinity of the Museum of Wood Architecture.
Marriage Production
Child follows a post-wedding photo session starring the couple Victoria and Vseudod.
Cossack bridegrooms
Victoria and Vseudod pose for photography in Cossack costumes.
stormy art
Painter is inspired by the bucolic landscape of Suzdal, with a Cumulus Nimbus cloud behind her.
divine fortress
Orthodox domes of the Cathedral of the Nativity, part of the Suzdal Kremlin.
In the shadow
A woman passes in front of one of Suzdal's many churches.
Orthodox Geometry
Transfiguration Cathedral and the bell tower inside the Monastery of Saint Euthymius.
Religious art
Candlelit painting inside the Cathedral of the Transfiguration, part of the Monastery of Saint Euthymius.
religious contrast
Wooden Church of St. Nicholas next to the Cathedral of the Nativity.
faith of wood
Church of the original Transfiguration in the village of Kozliatyevo and built in 1756.
It was a lavish capital when Moscow was just a rural hamlet. Along the way, it lost political relevance but accumulated the largest concentration of churches, monasteries and convents in the country of the tsars. Today, beneath its countless domes, Suzdal is as orthodox as it is monumental.

Mrs. Irina Zakharova, the matryoshka owner of the inn and hyper-attentive hostess puts the finishing touches on the kitchen.

Shortly thereafter, he incurs a lengthy briefing in Russian that delays the gastronomic adventures of his newest guests.

Alexey Kravchenko absorbs each of the lady's machine-gun words and responds as little as he can in a delicate compromise between courtesy and hunger.

Dª Irina Zakharova, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Dª Irina Zakharova prepares a breakfast in her family inn.

Barely freeing himself from the pen, he peeks into our room and gives the alert because we were waiting. “Free Kitchen!

Buckwheat, Cucumbers and Lots of Suzdal Conventual Beer

Let's go to lunch!”

For days, this easygoing petersburger has been trying to foist us, in English, such a buckwheat. We didn't have the translation present.

When we bought cereal at the supermarket, we were almost in the same ignorance. At least Alexey's theory that it was easy to prepare was proven.

A few minutes on the frying pan later, we are at the table enjoying an improvised fish meal garnished with buckwheat and vegetables that we accompany with different medovukhas, honey ciders with sweetened beer flavor.

Medovukha, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Honeybeer bottles in a Suzdal store.

This convent drink from Suzdal became a damned delicious habit that would accompany us all the way to northern Russia: Novgorod in our case; to your domicile of Saint Petersburg, with regard to the cicerone.

Alexey had placed several small, washed but unpeeled cucumbers on the table. He was devouring one after the other when he noticed that we weren't touching them: “What about the cucumbers? “ asks us indignantly.

We explained to him that we are not looking forward to it, because we shared the Portuguese notion that cucumber was indigestible and could easily ruin the afternoon of exploration that was approaching.

In his Slavic-restrained way, Alexey almost jumps out of his chair: “What? They're kidding, aren't they? I'm crazy about cucumbers and I have no idea what they're talking about. Indigestive? But it's just water. It doesn't give me any problem, quite the opposite.

By the way… in Russia, we are almost all addicts. In these parts, even more. in a few days, when the festival arrives, will be able to see how much.”

And it goes on devouring mini-cucumber after mini-cucumber.

After the meal and restoration of the kitchen for use by the other guests, we returned to discover the bucolic Suzdal.

The Special Historical and Political Statute of Suzdal

Unlike many of the medieval cities on the Golden Ring that had to give way to modernity because of their prime importance, Suzdal gained federal protection status that limited urban development.

It allowed it to remain as if frozen in time, given over to the sumptuousness and elegance of its many and varied churches and Orthodox cathedrals, monasteries and convents.

As with other buildings inside and outside the kremlin .

Church, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

A woman passes in front of one of Suzdal's many churches.

À As we walk along the banks or when we cross the bridges that cross it, we see the grace with which the river Stone it winds slowly through the village.

And how their apparent immobility reinforces the atmosphere of the time when Suzdal reached the peak.

Suzdal was the capital of several principalities, centuries after the settlers vikings have sailed up the Volga River, occupied a substantial part of western Russia, Bielorussia and Ukraine current – including these places where we walk – and founded the one they called Surdalar ou sudrdala (Southern Valley), a term that is repeated in the Nordic sagas.

Intercession Convent, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Cyclists pass in front of the Convent of the Intercession

All this took place under the leadership of a dynasty of name Rus' that would give rise à Russian nation.

Kamenka lacks the dimension and fluidity of the Volga. Even so, some less fearless descendants of the Scandinavian founders have a hard time getting into it.

We walk with a privileged view over the river when we notice a father and son afraid to dive into the freezing water.

Kamenka River, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

The Kamenka River, in the vicinity of the Museum of Wood Architecture.

Meanwhile, the family matriarch urges them on and despairs for the moment with the camera at the ready.

Later on, one of the many painters in training in the city sketches on canvas the scenarios and what happens in them. We see him sitting against the wall, under the green and gold domes that protrude from the interior.

Holy Euthymius Monastery, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Casal walks along a path along the facade of the Monastery of Santo Eutimio

Between Ancient Suzdal's Thousand-Year Wall Domes

In Suzdal, Orthodox churches and cathedrals are everywhere. Its dispersed but harmonious proliferation lends the place a strange fairy-tale look. Once we pass by the entrance to the Monastery of the Savior, we take the opportunity to learn a little more about the real story.

We examined the bell tower and the Father Superior's apartments.

We leave the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Savior for last. When we enter, five men all dressed in Matrix-black style appear to guard the entrance to the main ship.

A group of priests walks through a Suzdal garden.

In a moment of imaginative fertility, we conjectured that they were waiting for some multi-millionaire Muscovite mobster to visit their homeland.

We advance inland. We examine Orthodox religious paintings in the company of two children and parents who do the same in reverse.

Ring the bell outside. The men in black burst into the room and closed the door.

Unexpected Liturgical Chanting in Matrix Mode

It occurs to us that we could be in trouble. The “security guards” line up on a raised step leading to the altar. A lightning choral singing recital in Russian begins, amplified by the temple's perfect acoustics.

Less than two minutes later, the fabulous singing ends. We and the other adults clapped our hands, held back by the lingering wonder. Children recover from the surprise. The hurried interpreters, these, rush out the door as if nothing had happened.

The surprise events would not stop there. On one of the following days we had planned to leave early towards Bogolubovo, one of several smaller towns in the vicinity. Alexey wakes up late and delays the match.

In good time.

Baby Tour, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

A Suzdal resident pushes a child in a baby carriage next to a traditional colorful wooden house (isba).

It's already eleven in the morning when we approach the center of Suzdal.

Without expecting it, we saw a gaudy procession that enters a secluded street lined with dozens of izbas, the wooden rural houses typical of these rural areas, built without the use of metals, painted in strong tones.

We asked Alexey to park on the curb. we run to ourselves join the procession.

And An Orthodox Procession in Honor of Saint Euthymius

In the tail of the march follow male and female blesseds. It is led by sacristans and standard-bearing acolytes, followed by Orthodox priests, most of whom are bearded and grey-haired.

gaudy courtship

Orthodox priests carry out a procession in honor of Saint Euthymius.

It's uncomfortable hot but the religious wear phelons e phelonions, liturgical cassocks all black or embroidered and edged that combine gold with bright colors.

Four of these priests carry on their shoulders a small shrine also gilded wrapped in a scarlet velvety cloth.

After a few hundred meters, we found that it was a ceremony dedicated to Saint Euthymius, a 1332th century ascetic who, blessed by another more respected monk named Dionysus, won the admiration of Prince Boris Konstantinovich of Novgorod and Suzdal and, in XNUMX , founded the Monastery of the Savior, in this last village.

Respected for his deep faith, Eutimio would rise to Father Superior of the monastery, where he used that devotion to improve his ecclesiastical life.

His hagiography also describes that he prayed with Spartan discipline, sometimes in tears, and that he transposed to the monastery the cenobit lifestyle he had led years before, with the inspiring example of Dionysius.

Euthymius died in 1404. He was buried in the Cathedral of the Transfiguration. In 1547 he was canonized. His cult spread throughout the nation, with increased vigor among the Suzdal faithful.

Holy Euthymius Monastery, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Transfiguration Cathedral and the bell tower, inside the Monastery of Saint Euthymius, one of the buildings UNESCO Heritage of Suzdal

Almost all the participants in the procession sing orthodox religious psalms out loud, far more out of tune than the blitz-quintet that had frightened us before.

They sing until the procession enters the tight gate of the Synod Church of the Iberian Icon of the Mother of God, their final destination end.

The Muffled and Ecstatic Religious Ceremony of the Church of the Mother of God

The priests climb the short staircase, deposit the reliquary inside the temple and stand in front of the altar, prepared to begin the liturgy. The believers are distributed standing, behind a large chandelier and an exuberant panoply of gilded religious artefacts, wreaths and images of Saint Euthymius.

When the priest who leads the Mass begins the prayers and songs, they imitate him with dedication.

In a slow chemical mixture, the profusion of lighted candles, the many believers and the weather in the area generate a heavy breath that intensifies the mixture of the smells of burnt wax, incense and sweat.

The faithful follow the Eucharist given to God.

Orthodox priest holds the golden cross moments before the faithful at mass begin kissing it.

We enjoy communion, other rites and rituals that end shortly after believers kiss a golden crucifix that the priest who says Mass holds to his chest.

After the ceremony, the believers return to the street, followed by the priests who take the opportunity to greet the Mother Superior of the annexed convent with sentiment.

Greeting, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Orthodox priest greets a Mother Superior in Suzdal

Suzdal, a Millennial City with No Worries about Time

On this and other evenings, we enjoyed Suzdal's quiet life.

Groups of friends gathered around beers and guitars in front of a meander of the Kamenka, on the grassy backs of the market's arcades.

Convivio à Guitarra, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Young man plays the guitar for two friends on the high bank of the Kamemka River.

On the opposite side, sellers entertain themselves with long dialogues that are only interrupted when buyers of their wild fruits appear.

We see huge flocks of crows now fluttering and now perched dedicated to devouring the worms and insects on the lawn in front of the wooden church of São Nicolau.

Landing Gang, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Crows share Suzdal's grassy ground.

Over there, we still admire cumulus nimbus menacing to slip behind the projection of orthodox domes and crosses of the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin.

Nativity Cathedral, Golden Ring of Russia Old Fashion, Thousand Years

Orthodox domes of the Cathedral of the Nativity, part of the Suzdal Kremlin.

These would be Suzdal's last days of undisputed calm.

We arrived on Saturday morning. We were delighted with the rice porridge that Dona Irina had prepared for us for breakfast.

We left Alexey once more on the seventh sleep and left on foot.

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The City that Worships Kamakhya and the Fertility

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Mother Russia's Viking Grandmother

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Suzdal, Russia

Centuries of Devotion to a Devoted Monk

Euthymius was a fourteenth-century Russian ascetic who gave himself body and soul to God. His faith inspired Suzdal's religiosity. The city's believers worship him as the saint he has become.
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When the Russian Navy Stations in Saint Petersburg

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Suzdal, Russia

The Suzdal Cucumber Celebrations

With summer and warm weather, the Russian city of Suzdal relaxes from its ancient religious orthodoxy. The old town is also famous for having the best cucumbers in the nation. When July arrives, it turns the newly harvested into a real festival.
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Saint Petersburg, Russia

On the track of "Crime and Punishment"

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Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
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An Africa as Wild as Zulu

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Hikers on the Ice Lake Trail, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
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Annapurna Circuit – The Painful Acclimatization of the Ice Lake

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by the shadow
Architecture & Design
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A Masterpiece of Urban Rehabilitation

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Burning prayers, Ohitaki Festival, fushimi temple, kyoto, japan
Ceremonies and Festivities
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A Combustible Faith

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Mao Tse Tung, Dragon Heart, Tianamen Square, Beijing, China
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The Heart of the Great Dragon

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The Beverage Machines Empire

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capillary helmet
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Endless Snow on the Island of Fire

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Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

The Earthly and the Celestial

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San Ignacio Mini, Argentina

The Impossible Jesuit Missions of San Ignacio Mini

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Lifou, Loyalty Islands, New Caledonia, Mme Moline popinée
LifouLoyalty Islands

The Greatest of the Loyalties

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Geothermal, Iceland Heat, Ice Land, Geothermal, Blue Lagoon
Winter White

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shadow vs light
Kyoto, Japan

The Kyoto Temple Reborn from the Ashes

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Fishing, Cano Negro, Costa Rica
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A Life of Angling among the Wildlife

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Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
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Natural Parks
Atacama Desert, Chile

Life on the Edges of the Atacama Desert

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Kigurumi Satoko, Hachiman Temple, Ogimashi, Japan
UNESCO World Heritage
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An Historical-Virtual Japan

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Couple visiting Mikhaylovskoe, village where writer Alexander Pushkin had a home
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Bay Watch cabin, Miami beach, beach, Florida, United States,
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The Beach of All Vanities

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Herd in Manang, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Annapurna Circuit: 8th Manang, Nepal,

Manang: the Last Acclimatization in Civilization

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End of the World Train, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
On Rails
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Last Station: End of the World

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the bread the devil kneaded

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Visitors at Talisay Ruins, Negros Island, Philippines
Daily life
Talisay City, Philippines

Monument to a Luso-Philippine Love

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Boat and helmsman, Cayo Los Pájaros, Los Haitises, Dominican Republic
Samaná PeninsulaLos Haitises National Park Dominican Republic

From the Samaná Peninsula to the Dominican Haitises

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The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

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