Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna


Supply
Wildebeests drink water in several turns in a muddy pond during their long journey.
keeping an eye on the herd
Serengeti National Park visitor observes a herd of wildebeests in motion.
hippo pond
Hippopotamus stands out from a pool full of other conflicting elements of its species.
Predator on the attack
Lioness approaches a herd of running wildebeests, waiting for the best moment to launch her attack.
in the wake of the rain
Thousands of wildebeest race across the golden and dusty savannah of the Serengeti.
marabout tree
Marabou about to land on a tree colonized by other specimens of these scavengers.
wildebeest crossing
Wildebeests cross a road from PN Serengeti, right in front of a safari jeep.
neither horse nor ox
The eccentric face of a wildebeest, also called a horse-ox for its mixture of elements between ox and horses.
Masai style
Serengeti Serena Lodge cabins, with Masai-influenced architecture and spread across one of the rare steep slopes of the Serengeti.
Savannah secretariat
A secretary hunts reptiles among the tall grass of the Serengeti savannah.
Power ranger
Serengeti National Park Ranger Samson Njoghomi holds an old Ak-46 machine gun on top of a hill.
pine cone savanna
Elephants and wildebeest coincide in the same area of ​​the savannah. Some of the elephants will chase away the wildebeests in their path.
little lions
Two lion cubs watch their mother go away in search of prey.
bones of various animals
Serengeti National Park Visitors Center Guide explains the origin of each lined bone.
spiderman lizard
An agama-mwanzae lizard with its lush coloration sunbathes on a rock.
winged parasites
Weavers patrol the skin of a buffalo looking for parasitic insects.
in the golden savanna
Wildebeests graze in the savanna with the sun setting over the Serengeti.
In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.

Finally, we leave the famous Mara River.

We departed from the Kenyan National Reserve of Masai Mara towards its extension in northern Tanzania.

We cross overcrowded and chaotic villages around the Isebania-Sirari border. Already with the respective stamps in the passports, we changed jeep and guide.

Moses Lota introduces himself. Takes over navigation.

We conquered the highlands of the Tarime region, far greener and more agricultural than anything we had seen in recent days.

Six hours after the early departure, we felt at ease with the new guide and were back in the savannah.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, secretary

A secretary hunts reptiles among the tall grass of the Serengeti savannah.

"Sarah Mary and Mark of Jesus?" asks us also the conductor with his purposely silly way of incredulity that would come to amuse us time and time again.

"Well, counting Moses here, this is going to look like a biblical expedition."

Journey to the heart of the Serengeti National Park

We cross the Fort Ikoma portal of the Serengeti National Park, register with the authorities, and proceed to its core. The trip was soon shaken by the appearance of one of God's most demonic creatures on the scene.

"There, it's about to start!" announces the guide after a sharp slap in the face.

With the roof of the jeep open, it only took a few seconds for us all to share an inglorious resistance against the countless attacks of tsetse flies.

Moses reassures us. “This story is no longer what it was. They had to be bitten thousands of times and be unlucky the size of Tanzania to catch sleeping sickness. In fact, on the contrary, with them around, no one sleeps in this jeep.”

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, keeping an eye on the herd

Serengeti National Park visitor observes a herd of wildebeests in motion.

It's mid-afternoon. We just have to check in where we were going to stay close to nightfall.

Accordingly, we completed the route in full game drive mode, as the English-speaking colonists from Africa called the habit of driving through the savannah and observing the fauna.

We found the first clans of lions with offspring and dozens of elephants.

Until the sun goes down, there is still a huge flock of indolent but irascible hippos that almost completely fill a small section of the Grumeti River.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, Hippo-waterhole

Hippopotamus stands out from a pool full of other conflicting elements of its species.

We check into Serena Lodge at night and after the allowed time.

Guide more than beaten to the job, Moses is willing to favor our work and enters through the gate prepared for the eventual disgrace. "Do not worry. I tell them we had to help someone with a hole!"

Serena Lodge Serengeti Unfenced Shelter

As soon as we got out of the jeep, one of the employees of the lodge he listens to us talking and approaches us in hesitant and somewhat clumsy Portuguese. “Hello, I'm Marcerino. I also speak portuguese.

My parents are Mozambicans. They live on the edge. I came here at a very young age."

In the days we spent in that elegant Tanzanian hotel, Marcerino – the nameplate on his shirt confirmed the name – would pay us a special dedication.

The Serena Lodge where he worked was made of buildings shaped like large Masai huts, distributed along one of the rare steep slopes of the savannah, among acacia trees and thorny bushes.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, Serena Lodge

Serengeti Serena Lodge cabins, with Masai-influenced architecture and spread across one of the rare steep slopes of the Serengeti.

In the image of some others from wild africa, the lodge is not fenced. We want to leave the room for dinner but we can only do it with an escort.

The bodyguard who knocks on the door with his lantern at the ready wastes no time in enlightening us on the advantage of his presence. "So what animals have you seen here today?" we ask. "It has been calm." responds. “But a little of everything can appear. We've been visited by buffaloes, lions, leopards and even elephants.

We have to be careful. At this time, guests are in the mood to eat, not be eaten.”

During the night, we heard a lion's shuffling roar from an opposite hill. The top of that elevation seduced us because we suspected it must provide incredible 360° views.

With the sun coming up behind it, we pursued the privilege of going there.

We ask at reception if there are any special trails. “There is and part already back here. But you're not thinking about going there like that, is it?”

In fact, we hadn't considered the little expedition in all its aspects.

Ranger and AK-46 Protected Ascension to a Panoramic Hill

Anyway, after some time, the lodge staff went from refusing us the tour to providing it with military security. Marcerino picks us up as we leave the reception: “friends, we can go now. This way."

Along the way, a park ranger joins us, dressed in a green military uniform and holding an old AK-46 against his trunk.

“Just yesterday there was a clan of lions installed on that hillside. Don't be scared, but the machine gun really has to go with us.”

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, Power Ranger

Serengeti National Park Ranger Samson Njoghomi holds an old Ak-46 machine gun on top of a hill.

Samson, the shaved-haired squeaker who walks ahead of the group looks like a man of few conversations. Like the hill, its tense face also challenges us. “We ended up starting a conversation.

In the middle of the hill's ascent, we approached the desire we had – like so many curious travelers – to climb Mount Kilimanjaro, the grandiose roof of Africa.

Samson's eyes seem to instantly glow. “I went up there a while ago in a selection test for park rangers in Tanzania. We were over fifty and only eight reached the summit. I was one of them. Now I have this job.”

We reached the top. We admire the surrounding scenery.

To all sides except the opposite slope taken by Serena Lodge, the savannah stretched out into infinity colored by some low, verdant or parched vegetation depending on the water in the subsoil.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, buffalo

Weavers patrol the skin of a buffalo looking for parasitic insects.

The Serengeti Savannah without End

As we catch our breath, the four of us turn to binoculars or our telephoto lenses and scrutinize that imposing Africa in detail.

We detect herds of buffaloes and elephants, wildebeests, zebras and giraffes, any of the animal sets, tiny in the endless prairie scenery. A little later, with the sun still low on the horizon, we return to the lodge.

We left in a jeep in his wake.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, Wildebeest crossing

Wildebeests cross a road from PN Serengeti, right in front of a safari jeep.

Moses Lote takes us dozens of kilometers along unpaved roads, at a low speed, as is supposed to be inside the park.

We started by going mostly through herds of gazelles and impalas. It doesn't take long for us to enter a wet area – sometimes even soaked. At a glance, the Serengeti's fauna and flora proves to be far more diverse.

There are ponds, some more muddy than others, which attract specimens to which the heat begins to cause thirst.

A flock of marabouts hovers gently from the top of the branches of a dry tree to the water's edge, which comes to contend with hippos, rowdy baboons, and various wary herbivores.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, Marabou Tree

Marabou about to land on a tree colonized by other specimens of these scavengers.

As we approach this pool, we notice that a herd of elephants is crossing the savanna towards us.

Some younger pachyderms have fun investing in a caravan of wildebeests that we don't understand and that the presence of several jeeps intimidated them from crossing the road.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest and elephants

Elephants and wildebeest coincide in the same area of ​​the savannah. Some of the elephants will chase away the wildebeests in their path.

The Long Wildebeest Caravans That Make Life Easier for Predators

Moses stops ours and turns around: “They're really lucky! Do you know why we all stopped here? There is a clan of lions crouched in the grass waiting for the wildebeests.

Some of the jeep drivers increase the space available for the crossing.

Ox-horses are not begged. They rush, at a gallop, over the cats' trap.

Hundreds of them pass by the only lioness we can detect, a few meters away, without her attacking.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, Lioness

Lioness approaches a herd of running wildebeests, waiting for the best moment to launch her attack.

Instead, minutes after the entire caravan had moved to the other side of the road, we noticed that two more distant ones were already dragging an adult wildebeest and a newly caught baby wildebeest into the shade of a tree.

“See? That's why predators prefer them. They're easy.” shoots Moses. “God created them in a hurry. In addition to forgetting the brain, he made them with spare parts from a number of other animals.

No wonder they always rank so highly on the list of Big Ugly here from Africa.”

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest

The eccentric face of a wildebeest, also called a horse-ox for its mixture of elements between ox and horses.

With the dry season settling in those parts, hunts like the one we had just followed would become rarer in the months to come.

Wildebeests greedily drank water from the remaining ponds and streams.

We saw them traverse the savanna in more and more endless caravans.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest

Thousands of wildebeest race across the golden and dusty savannah of the Serengeti.

Back and forth, waiting for herd leaders to give the signal to leave or already in full migration to the distant but contiguous lands of Masai Mara.

On this route, they are forced to cross the crocodile-infested streams of the Mara and grumetti.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river

Wildebeests drink water in several turns in a muddy pond during their long journey.

The heavy clouds brought by the cyclic monsoon from east Africa had already moved there.

By that time, they irrigated meadows far greener and more succulent than those of that vast Serengeti.

Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, Golden Savannah

Wildebeests graze in the savanna with the sun setting over the Serengeti.

Zanzibar, Tanzania

The African Spice Islands

Vasco da Gama opened the Indian Ocean to the Portuguese empire. In the XNUMXth century, the Zanzibar archipelago became the largest producer of cloves and the available spices diversified, as did the people who disputed them.
Cape Cross, Namíbia

The Most Turbulent of the African Colonies

Diogo Cão landed in this cape of Africa in 1486, installed a pattern and turned around. The immediate coastline to the north and south was German, South African, and finally Namibian. Indifferent to successive transfers of nationality, one of the largest seal colonies in the world has maintained its hold there and animates it with deafening marine barks and endless tantrums.
NP Gorongosa, Mozambique

The Wild Heart of Mozambique shows Signs of Life

Gorongosa was home to one of the most exuberant ecosystems in Africa, but from 1980 to 1992 it succumbed to the Civil War waged between FRELIMO and RENAMO. Greg Carr, Voice Mail's millionaire inventor received a message from the Mozambican ambassador to the UN challenging him to support Mozambique. For the good of the country and humanity, Carr pledged to resurrect the stunning national park that the Portuguese colonial government had created there.
Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
Lake Manyara NP, Tanzania

Hemingway's Favorite Africa

Situated on the western edge of the Rift Valley, Lake Manyara National Park is one of the smallest but charming and richest in Europe. wild life of Tanzania. In 1933, between hunting and literary discussions, Ernest Hemingway dedicated a month of his troubled life to him. He narrated those adventurous safari days in “The Green Hills of Africa".
Amboseli National Park, Kenya

A Gift from the Kilimanjaro

The first European to venture into these Masai haunts was stunned by what he found. And even today, large herds of elephants and other herbivores roam the pastures irrigated by the snow of Africa's biggest mountain.
Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

On the world map, south of the famous brazilian wetland, a little-known flooded region appears, but almost as vast and rich in biodiversity. the Guarani expression Y bera defines it as “shining waters”. The adjective fits more than its strong luminance.
Masai Mara, Kenya

A Journey Through the Masai Lands

The Mara savannah became famous for the confrontation between millions of herbivores and their predators. But, in a reckless communion with wildlife, it is the Masai humans who stand out there.
Savuti, Botswana

Savuti's Elephant-Eating Lions

A patch of the Kalahari Desert dries up or is irrigated depending on the region's tectonic whims. In Savuti, lions have become used to depending on themselves and prey on the largest animals in the savannah.
Okavango Delta, Botswana

Not all rivers reach the sea

Third longest river in southern Africa, the Okavango rises in the Angolan Bié plateau and runs 1600km to the southeast. It gets lost in the Kalahari Desert where it irrigates a dazzling wetland teeming with wildlife.
Chobe NP, Botswana

Chobe: A River on the Border of Life with Death

Chobe marks the divide between Botswana and three of its neighboring countries, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. But its capricious bed has a far more crucial function than this political delimitation.
Lion, Elephants, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe
Safari
PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 5th- Ngawal-BragaNepal,

Towards the Nepalese Braga

We spent another morning of glorious weather discovering Ngawal. There is a short journey towards Manang, the main town on the way to the zenith of the Annapurna circuit. We stayed for Braga (Braka). The hamlet would soon prove to be one of its most unforgettable places.
by the shadow
Architecture & Design
Miami, USA

A Masterpiece of Urban Rehabilitation

At the turn of the 25st century, the Wynwood neighbourhood remained filled with abandoned factories and warehouses and graffiti. Tony Goldman, a shrewd real estate investor, bought more than XNUMX properties and founded a mural park. Much more than honoring graffiti there, Goldman founded the Wynwood Arts District, the great bastion of creativity in Miami.
Adventure
Volcanoes

Mountains of Fire

More or less prominent ruptures in the earth's crust, volcanoes can prove to be as exuberant as they are capricious. Some of its eruptions are gentle, others prove annihilating.
The Crucifixion in Helsinki
Ceremonies and Festivities
Helsinki, Finland

A Frigid-Scholarly Via Crucis

When Holy Week arrives, Helsinki shows its belief. Despite the freezing cold, little dressed actors star in a sophisticated re-enactment of Via Crucis through streets full of spectators.
Santo Domingo, Colonial City, Dominican Republic, Diego Colombo
Cities
Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

The Longest Colonial Elder in the Americas

Santo Domingo is the longest-inhabited colony in the New World. Founded in 1498 by Bartholomew Colombo, the capital of the Dominican Republic preserves intact a true treasure of historical resilience.
Obese resident of Tupola Tapaau, a small island in Western Samoa.
Meal
Tonga, Western Samoa, Polynesia

XXL Pacific

For centuries, the natives of the Polynesian islands subsisted on land and sea. Until the intrusion of colonial powers and the subsequent introduction of fatty pieces of meat, fast food and sugary drinks have spawned a plague of diabetes and obesity. Today, while much of Tonga's national GDP, Western Samoa and neighbors is wasted on these “western poisons”, fishermen barely manage to sell their fish.
khinalik, Azerbaijan Caucasus village, Khinalig
Culture
Chinalig, Azerbaijan

The Village at the Top of Azerbaijan

Set in the rugged, icy 2300 meters of the Great Caucasus, the Khinalig people are just one of several minorities in the region. It has remained isolated for millennia. Until, in 2006, a road made it accessible to the old Soviet Ladas.
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Sport
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
kings canyon, red centre, heart, australia
Traveling
Red Center, Australia

Australia's Broken Heart

The Red Center is home to some of Australia's must-see natural landmarks. We are impressed by the grandeur of the scenarios but also by the renewed incompatibility of its two civilizations.
Meeting of the waters, Manaus, Amazonas, Brazil
Ethnic
Manaus, Brazil

Meeting the Meeting of the Waters

The phenomenon is not unique, but in Manaus it has a special beauty and solemnity. At a certain point, the Negro and Solimões rivers converge on the same Amazonas bed, but instead of immediately mixing, both flows continue side by side. As we explore these parts of the Amazon, we witness the unusual confrontation of the Encontro das Águas.
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

life outside

Manaus Theater, Brazil
History
manaus, Brazil

The Jumps and Starts of the former World Rubber Capital

From 1879 to 1912, only the Amazon River basin generated the latex that, from one moment to another, the world needed and, out of nowhere, Manaus became one of the most advanced cities on the face of the Earth. But an English explorer took the tree to Southeast Asia and ruined pioneer production. Manaus once again proved its elasticity. It is the largest city in the Amazon and the seventh in Brazil.
Cuada village, Flores Island, Azores, rainbow quarter
Islands
Aldeia da Cuada, Flores Island, Azores

The Azorean Eden Betrayed by the Other Side of the Sea

Cuada was founded, it is estimated that in 1676, next to the west threshold of Flores. In the XNUMXth century, its residents joined the great Azorean stampede to the Americas. They left behind a village as stunning as the island and the Azores.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
Winter White
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
Almada Negreiros, Roça Saudade, Sao Tome
Literature
Saudade, São Tomé, São Tomé and Principe

Almada Negreiros: From Saudade to Eternity

Almada Negreiros was born in April 1893, on a farm in the interior of São Tomé. Upon discovering his origins, we believe that the luxuriant exuberance in which he began to grow oxygenated his fruitful creativity.
Meares glacier
Nature
Prince William Sound, Alaska

Journey through a Glacial Alaska

Nestled against the Chugach Mountains, Prince William Sound is home to some of Alaska's stunning scenery. Neither powerful earthquakes nor a devastating oil spill affected its natural splendor.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Rhinoceros, PN Kaziranga, Assam, India
Natural Parks
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
UNESCO World Heritage
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

On the eminence of the coast of Mozambique, the province of KwaZulu-Natal is home to an unexpected South Africa. Deserted beaches full of dunes, vast estuarine swamps and hills covered with fog fill this wild land also bathed by the Indian Ocean. It is shared by the subjects of the always proud Zulu nation and one of the most prolific and diverse fauna on the African continent.
aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Characters
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
Lifou, Loyalty Islands, New Caledonia, Mme Moline popinée
Beaches
LifouLoyalty Islands

The Greatest of the Loyalties

Lifou is the island in the middle of the three that make up the semi-francophone archipelago off New Caledonia. In time, the Kanak natives will decide if they want their paradise independent of the distant metropolis.
Cape Espichel, Sanctuary of Senhora do Cabo, Sesimbra,
Religion
Albufeira Lagoon ao Cape Espichel, Sesimbra, Portugal

Pilgrimage to a Cape of Worship

From the top of its 134 meters high, Cabo Espichel reveals an Atlantic coast as dramatic as it is stunning. Departing from Lagoa de Albufeira to the north, golden coast below, we venture through more than 600 years of mystery, mysticism and veneration of its aparecida Nossa Senhora do Cabo.
End of the World Train, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
On Rails
Ushuaia, Argentina

Last Station: End of the World

Until 1947, the Tren del Fin del Mundo made countless trips for the inmates of the Ushuaia prison to cut firewood. Today, passengers are different, but no other train goes further south.
Ijen Volcano, Slaves of Sulfur, Java, Indonesia
Society
Ijen volcano, Indonesia

The Ijen Volcano Sulphur Slaves

Hundreds of Javanese surrender to the Ijen volcano where they are consumed by poisonous gases and loads that deform their shoulders. Each turn earns them less than €30 but everyone is grateful for their martyrdom.
Daily life
Arduous Professions

the bread the devil kneaded

Work is essential to most lives. But, certain jobs impose a degree of effort, monotony or danger that only a few chosen ones can measure up to.
Fishing, Cano Negro, Costa Rica
Wildlife
Caño Negro, Costa Rica

A Life of Angling among the Wildlife

One of the most important wetlands in Costa Rica and the world, Caño Negro dazzles for its exuberant ecosystem. Not only. Remote, isolated by rivers, swamps and poor roads, its inhabitants have found in fishing a means on board to strengthen the bonds of their community.
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Scenic Flights
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.
PT EN ES FR DE IT