São Vicente, Cape Verde

The Volcanic Arid Wonder of Soncente

Atlantic vs East Coast
Praia Grande coves, between Baía das Gatas and the volcanoes above the village of Calhau.
Clube Beira-Mar by the sea
Headquarters of FC Beira-Mar do Calhau, the club in the village of Calhau served by a rough and peeled field.
Dry skies, inhospitable land
Glimpse of São Vicente under a mist that only very rarely produces rain.
Incursion into Praia Grande
Hikers walk at the end of Praia Grande closest to the village of Calhau.
an unexpected relationship
Bush invades the modern road that passes by the village of Calhau.
miraculous city
The houses of Mindelo arranged around the Bay of Porto Grande, with Monte Cara in the background.
color fishing
Fishing boats bring more life to Baía das Gatas.
Dunes and some Asphalt
Atlantic Dunes in the east of São Vicente
rough coastline
Plateaus and craggy peaks rip the east coast of São Vicente right down to the edge of the Atlantic.
geological cutouts
The peninsula on which Baía das Gatas is located, seen from the top of Monte Verde
End of another day
Sun sets behind Monte Cara and orange the Porto Grande Bay and its marina.
A return to São Vicente reveals an aridity as dazzling as it is inhospitable. Those who visit it are surprised by the grandeur and geological eccentricity of the fourth smallest island in Cape Verde.

The "Canal Sea” approaches the anchorage.

The waves soften as the islet of Farol gains volume.

It stands out from the imposing cliffs between ocher and brown, which flank the bay of Porto Grande, almost on the northwest threshold of Cape Verde.

In such a way that it reveals the white staircase that climbs to the top. The acrobatic houses of Mindelo are unveiled along the extensive base of Monte Verde, as if trying to conquer its summit.

At the time the boat docks, the sun falls behind Monte Cara. It illuminates and yellows the city with an astral morabeza that is both soft and ephemeral.

Mindelo, São Vicente, Cape Verde, Porto Grande Marina

Sun sets behind Monte Cara and orange the Porto Grande Bay and its marina.

Once on land, with night beginning, we found ourselves eager to discover what was beyond the huge iron walls that seemed to contain the capital.

We decided to discover it before dedicating ourselves to the Mindelo.

The new day dawned sunny and somewhat windy as is supposed in the cooler and dry season of Cape Verde.

We took the rental car on Avenida Marginal and, soon, the Mindelo-Calhau road, a long irregular sidewalk, made of basalt stones, as volcanic as its final destination.

We continue upstream of the dry Julião stream, through a savannah with dry, shallow hay, dotted with thorny bushes.

A Breathtaking Return to São Vicente

Gradually, we enter the heart of the island and point to the capricious east coast.

Calhau won't be long. Admire its multicolored houses at the foot of the two black volcanoes that reinforce the smallness of the homes.

The open surroundings appear to us in style Western, like nowhere ghosts swept by sand and dust, full of ground-floor buildings abandoned to the waterhole and the Alisios.

Clube Beira-Mar, São Vicente Island, Cape Verde

Headquarters of FC Beira-Mar do Calhau, the club in the village of Calhau served by a rough and peeled field.

One of these structures is joined by an overturned goal and a whole rough soccer field in front of it. A sign identifies them: FC Beira Mar do Calhau.

The seat is black and yellow, the exact colors of Sport Clube Beira-Mar de Aveiro. In the distance, towards the rest of Cape Verde's west coast and the African continent, we can still see the island of Santa Luzia, clearly offside.

We take the road that is named Baía das Gatas-Calhau there.

The Calhau is already behind when we notice that a bush like a tree hugs the steel rail.

It invades the edge and sways in the wind on the asphalt, as if to claim the supremacy of the adventurous plant world.

São Vicente, Cape Verde, bush on the road

Bush invades the modern road that passes by the village of Calhau.

From Praia Grande to Baía das Gatas

Still without seeing a soul, we entered the open area of ​​Praia Grande.

A succession of lofty plateaus of long-cooled lava give way to the coast.

Successive sands extend from the tidal limit of the Atlantic, up the slopes.

Praia Grande, east of São Vicente, Cape Verde

Hikers walk at the end of Praia Grande closest to the village of Calhau.

The road that undulates between these same slopes and the ocean crosses the sands and the dunes.

It leads us to a last cove closed by new linear houses.

We consulted the map. We confirmed that it was the Baía das Gatas that we had already heard so much about. It was the excuse that we didn't need to visit and refresh ourselves with icy Strelas.

Far from the date of the famous local festival and without the crowds from Mindelo and other parts of Cape Verde, those places lacked life. Color abounded. Especially on assorted fishermen's boats.

Sao Vicente, Baía das Gatas, Cape Verde boats

Fishing boats bring more life to Baía das Gatas.

So we ended up sitting down to lunch on an airy terrace, seduced by the genuine reception of the owner: “If you want food from here, you'll have to wait at least half an hour.

Here we make everything fresh and on time.” let us know, for sure already tired of the rush of the small tours that passed by. "No, there is no cachus! But there is fried chicken."

We have nothing to complain about.

We sat between French, Dutch and English. Since landing in Mindelo, we have not seen any sign of compatriots.

We savored the beers and the strangeness of that corner of the island that the company made more foreign.

The Picturesque and Bathing Corner of Salamansa

After the small feast, we proceed to Salamansa, the fishing village that followed, located in the bay before the capital because of the fresh water, rare in most parts of São Vicente, as in the rest of the archipelago. We entered what appeared to be the main street.

A group of women and children share the fountain of the village, armed with jerricans plastics. As the containers fill, they exchange jokes and spontaneous jokes to which they respond with easy laughs.

Across the road, another, older woman, had just laid out the blue outfit of the local football club under the gaze of a small clan of men, some players, other former players and supporters who, motivated by our interest , rushed to praise the value of their team.

We passed the beach in front of the village. There, king sports are different. Several native teenagers and a young Dutchman who ended up staying run an informal water sports center.

At the same time, they perfect their surfing and kitesurf.

Upon returning from the sea, some of them volunteer for a short photographic production. Cristiano, Kenny Marlon and Vladimir display, in stylish poses, their boards and physiques.

Confident, Jaírson doesn't need props to reach the same plan.

Ascension to the Ceiling of São Vicente

We were about to close the way back to the road we had been driving since early in the morning. At the same time, we had approached the access to the island's zenith (750 m), the Monte Verde overlooking that we admired when the ferry arrived from Santo Antão.

View from Pico Verde to Praia Grande, São Vicente, Cape Verde

Plateaus and craggy peaks rip the east coast of São Vicente right to the edge of the Atlantic

We ascend to its panoramic summit. Slowly, slowly, the altitude trapped us with majestic views of Praia Grande.

And forward, far away, from Santo Antão, from the Bay of Porto Grande, from the Mindelo that filled it and the barren but stunning hills and valleys between the plateau that supported us and the São Vicente Channel.

The Alisios punished those heights and Cape Verde in general, from the Brava island a Santo Antão. In such a way that, when we reached the edge of the precipice, we could barely balance ourselves.

Despite the distance, we realized that the “Canal Sea” returned to dock at the port. The day ended in a flash and the lights took over the houses.

Cidade Velha, Cape Verde

Cidade Velha: the Ancient of the Tropico-Colonial Cities

It was the first settlement founded by Europeans below the Tropic of Cancer. In crucial times for Portuguese expansion to Africa and South America and for the slave trade that accompanied it, Cidade Velha became a poignant but unavoidable legacy of Cape Verdean origins.

island of salt, Cape Verde

The Salt of the Island of Sal

At the approach of the XNUMXth century, Sal remained lacking in drinking water and practically uninhabited. Until the extraction and export of the abundant salt there encouraged a progressive population. Today, salt and salt pans add another flavor to the most visited island in Cape Verde.
Boa Vista Island, Cape Verde

Boa Vista Island: Atlantic waves, Dunas do Sara

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Santa Maria, Sal Island, Cape Verde

Santa Maria and the Atlantic Blessing of Sal

Santa Maria was founded in the first half of the XNUMXth century, as a salt export warehouse. Today, thanks to the providence of Santa Maria, Sal Ilha is worth much more than the raw material.
Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Up and Down the Estrada da Corda

Santo Antão is the westernmost of the Cape Verde Islands. There lies an Atlantic and rugged threshold of Africa, a majestic insular domain that we begin by unraveling from one end to the other of its dazzling Estrada da Corda.
Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Around the Fogo Island

Time and the laws of geomorphology dictated that the volcano-island of Fogo rounded off like no other in Cape Verde. Discovering this exuberant Macaronesian archipelago, we circled around it against the clock. We are dazzled in the same direction.
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

São Nicolau: Pilgrimage to Terra di Sodade

Forced matches like those that inspired the famous morna “soda” made the pain of having to leave the islands of Cape Verde very strong. Discovering saninclau, between enchantment and wonder, we pursue the genesis of song and melancholy.
Chã das Caldeiras, Fogo Island Cape Verde

A "French" Clan at the Mercy of Fire

In 1870, a Count born in Grenoble on his way to Brazilian exile, made a stopover in Cape Verde where native beauties tied him to the island of Fogo. Two of his children settled in the middle of the volcano's crater and continued to raise offspring there. Not even the destruction caused by the recent eruptions deters the prolific Montrond from the “county” they founded in Chã das Caldeiras.    
Príncipe, São Tomé and Principe

Journey to the Noble Retreat of Príncipe Island

150 km of solitude north of the matriarch São Tomé, the island of Príncipe rises from the deep Atlantic against an abrupt and volcanic mountain-covered jungle setting. Long enclosed in its sweeping tropical nature and a contained but moving Luso-colonial past, this small African island still houses more stories to tell than visitors to listen to.
São Tomé and Principe

Cocoa Roças, Corallo and the Chocolate Factory

At the beginning of the century. In the XNUMXth century, São Tomé and Príncipe generated more cocoa than any other territory. Thanks to the dedication of some entrepreneurs, production survives and the two islands taste like the best chocolate.
Lion, Elephants, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe
PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.
Hikers on the Ice Lake Trail, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 7th - Braga - Ice Lake, Nepal

Annapurna Circuit – The Painful Acclimatization of the Ice Lake

On the way up to the Ghyaru village, we had a first and unexpected show of how ecstatic the Annapurna Circuit can be tasted. Nine kilometers later, in Braga, due to the need to acclimatize, we climbed from 3.470m from Braga to 4.600m from Lake Kicho Tal. We only felt some expected tiredness and the increase in the wonder of the Annapurna Mountains.
Sheets of Bahia, Eternal Diamonds, Brazil
Architecture & Design
Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

Lençóis da Bahia: not Even Diamonds Are Forever

In the XNUMXth century, Lençóis became the world's largest supplier of diamonds. But the gem trade did not last as expected. Today, the colonial architecture that he inherited is his most precious possession.
Salto Angel, Rio that falls from the sky, Angel Falls, PN Canaima, Venezuela
PN Canaima, Venezuela

Kerepakupai, Salto Angel: The River that Falls from Heaven

In 1937, Jimmy Angel landed a light aircraft on a plateau lost in the Venezuelan jungle. The American adventurer did not find gold but he conquered the baptism of the longest waterfall on the face of the Earth
Balinese Hinduism, Lombok, Indonesia, Batu Bolong temple, Agung volcano in background
Ceremonies and Festivities
Lombok, Indonesia

Lombok: Balinese Hinduism on an Island of Islam

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Tequila, Jalisco City, Mexico, Jima
Tequila, JaliscoMexico

Tequila: The Distillation of Western Mexico that Animates the World

Disillusioned with the lack of wine and brandy, the Conquistadors of Mexico improved the millenary indigenous aptitude for producing alcohol. In the XNUMXth century, the Spaniards were satisfied with their pinga and began to export it. From Tequila, town, today, the center of a demarcated region. And the name for which it became famous.
Singapore Asian Capital Food, Basmati Bismi

The Asian Food Capital

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Jingkieng Wahsurah, Nongblai Village Roots Bridge, Meghalaya, India
Meghalaya, India

The Bridges of the Peoples that Create Roots

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When Only Cock Fights Wake Up the Philippines

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Erika Mother

The Philippine Road Lords

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Masai Mara Reservation, Masai Land Travel, Kenya, Masai Convivial
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A Journey Through the Masai Lands

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Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

life outside

Ilhéu das Rolas, São Tomé and Príncipe, equator, inlet
Rolas Islet, São Tomé and Principe

Rolas Islet: São Tomé and Principe at Latitude Zero

The southernmost point of São Tomé and Príncipe, Ilhéu das Rolas is lush and volcanic. The big news and point of interest of this island extension of the second smallest African nation is the coincidence of crossing the Equator.
colorful boat, Gili Islands, Indonesia
Gili Islands, Indonesia

Gili: the Indonesia's Islands the World Calls “Islands”

They are so humble that they are known by the term bahasa which means only islands. Despite being discreet, the Gili have become the favorite haunt of travelers who pass through Lombok or Bali.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
Winter White
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
View from the top of Mount Vaea and the tomb, Vailima village, Robert Louis Stevenson, Upolu, Samoa
Upolu, Samoa

Stevenson's Treasure Island

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Devils Marbles, Alice Springs to Darwin, Stuart hwy, Top End Path
Alice Springs to Darwin, Australia

Stuart Road, on its way to Australia's Top End

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Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Windward Side, Saba, Dutch Caribbean, Netherlands
Natural Parks
Saba, The Netherlands

The Mysterious Dutch Queen of Saba

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São Miguel Island, Dazzling Colors by Nature
UNESCO World Heritage
São Miguel (Azores), Azores

São Miguel Island: Stunning Azores, By Nature

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now from above ladder, sorcerer of new zealand, Christchurch, new zealand
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New Zealand's Cursed Wizard

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Martinique island, French Antilles, Caribbean Monument Cap 110
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The Armpit Baguette Caribbean

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Bathers in the middle of the End of the World-Cenote de Cuzamá, Mérida, Mexico
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The End of the End of the World

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Executives sleep subway seat, sleep, sleep, subway, train, Tokyo, Japan
On Rails
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo's Hypno-Passengers

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Weddings in Jaffa, Israel,
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Where Tel Aviv Settles Always in Party

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Daily life
Arduous Professions

the bread the devil kneaded

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hippopotami, chobe national park, botswana
Chobe NP, Botswana

Chobe: A River on the Border of Life with Death

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Full Dog Mushing
Scenic Flights
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

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