Santiago, Cape Verde

Santiago from bottom to top

Summits of São Jorge dos Órgãos
The serrated top of the mountains seen from the Mirador de Tancon in São Jorge dos Órgãos.
Assomada II
The upper and lower houses in Assomada.
Bouganvillea girls
Friends pose and play in front of a large colony of bouganvilleas.
Assomada II
A sharp peak protrudes from behind Assomada's houses.
Countryside Dancing
Peasant dances above the great Kamauma Pé di Polón.
At the foot of Pé di Polon
Couple to spare from the great Pé di Polón.
Boiling Cane Juice
A group of producers accompany the boiling of the sugarcane juice.
Alembic Tasks
Elders deal with the assembly of an alembic.
A well-mixed proof of grogue with molasses.
Heavy Load
Peasants carry sacks of grain near the base of the Pé di Polón.
Picos (Achada da Igreja)
Church of the Savior of the World
The Church of St. Savior of the World at the base of Mount Guililância.
Dona Teresa
Resident of Leitãozinho in the vicinity of the local warehouse.
Peaks in the Horizon
Successive peaks above a scattered houses in Santiago.
serra da malagueta
Deep river valley seen from the top of Serra da Malagueta.
fire volcano
The cone of Fogo volcano high above Santiago's highest line.
Tarrafal in sight
The houses of Tarrafal, at the top northwest of the island of Santiago.
The Fogo Island and Volcano
Sunset oranges the horizon and reinforces the silhouette of the island and Fogo volcano.
Landed in the Cape Verdean capital of Praia, we explore its pioneer predecessor city. From Cidade Velha, we follow the stunning mountainous ridge of Santiago to the unobstructed top of Tarrafal.

We arrive at the roundabout that interrupts Circular da Praia near Cape Verde's National Stadium.

Two roundabouts imposed on the parched and thorny vastness distribute traffic to Praia and other directions. A sample of a herd of cows is kept on a central divider in the road leading to the Cidade Velha.

Strange, unexpected, the sight distracts us. It makes us miss the correct exit. We take another walk, accompanied, with suspicion, by the cattle. Finally, following the second roundabout, we hit the north of Santiago.

In a flash, the road narrows. Fits the two most common senses in Cape Verde. A few kilometers later, having crossed the Pedegral and the village of Ribeirão Chiqueiro, it enters a pre-gorge mode that prepares us for the imposing and jagged terrain.

One of the winding roads that passes through Caiada and Água Gato leads us to the municipality of São Lourenço dos Órgãos and to the mountainous and dramatic stronghold to which we hoped to spend some time.

The Mountainous and Verdant Domain of São Jorge dos Órgãos

There, in the most leafy and flowery sector of the Superior School of Agrarian Sciences of the University of Cape Verde, we find the National Botanical Garden Grandvaux Barbosa.

It was created in 1986, named in honor of Luís Augusto Granvaux (1914-1983), a Portuguese botanist hyper-dedicated to the overseas flora, especially to Cape Verde.

In the free rein we used to walk, we preferred to admire it in its context and natural ecosystem. Accordingly, we proceed to the heart of São Jorge dos Órgãos.

Right in the middle of the village, the relief confronts us with the blue church of São Jorge, tucked between elevations with sharp peaks.

We felt the urge to distance ourselves from the houses, to find a worthy vantage point. We got into that way, along a narrow detour, on badly beaten earth that zigzagged up one of the slopes above.

Suspicious about the damage that the aggravated floor could cause to the car, we found in a group of peasant women, sitting on sacks and sacks of dry corn, the ideal pretext to abort the madness.

A Well-Disposed Community of Solidarity Peasants

“We got together here in community work” they explain to us, as if it were a commonplace. “In these more isolated parts, the villagers struggle to handle the crops just for themselves. So we help each other.”

Raised in large part in the countryside of Beiras, we remembered when this community harmony prevailed there. But we were also aware of how individualism and facilitism had wiped it out, especially from the 90s onwards.

Delighted with the survival of this nostalgic solidarity, we surrendered to a chatterbox, in Portuguese familiar to everyone and in Creole badu to which the ladies resorted, among themselves, whenever a new remark or joke was imposed.

In his company, we contemplate the double peak of Pico de Antónia (1394m), the highest point on the island, third in Cape Verde, the heart of a national park of the same name.

Although, in this case, the namesake has to be told. The more we investigate, the more we see how much the name diverged from the zenith of Santiago.

The Unstable Historical and Semantic Context of Santiago roof

Supposedly credible sources explain that, from an early age, the mount was treated by Piku D'Antoni as it was one of the first elevations in Cape Verde recorded by the Genoese navigator António da Noli, in the service of Infante Dom Henrique.

Over time, it was referred to in documents and even in the lyrics of the Cape Verdean popular songbook. Nuns, it appears as António. In others, in the female.

Somewhere during the history of Santiago and its vernacular treatment, the people will have changed the gender of its discoverer. Surrounded by women from Santiago, we agreed.

Gilda, one of them, is late, more than an hour and a half on foot from São Jorge dos Órgãos, the village to which it was convenient for us to return. We give her a lift, we go down the mountain to talk and we give her to her life.

Then we went up to a viewpoint called Tancon. Leaning over its generous parapet, we once again admire Pico de António and its neighbors, now, from west to east, frontal and, as such, more defined and distinguished.

With renewed wonder, we resumed the path. Chã de Vaca is left behind. We alternate between the municipalities of São Lourenço dos Órgãos and the contiguous one of São Salvador do Mundo when a natural monument in Santiago demands a detour to the depths of Leitãozinho.

Pé di Polón: in search of the Biggest Tree in Santiago

We went down to the immediate slope. On the opposite side, we find the plant colossus we were looking for, Pé de Polião, in Creole, Pé di Polón, a baobab or kapok tree (ceiba pentandra) endemic celebrated as Cape Verde's supreme tree and one of the oldest.

At that time, already with some foliage, the woolen tree hung over the thalweg. It was sustained by colossal roots that rippled down the slope, thirsting for the water tables that Santiago's short rainy season unfolded.

Wild on arrival, the place quickly reveals its life to us.

Two young people from the area are walking along a path at the foot of the tree, loaded with sacks overflowing with some grain, as if that wasn't enough, one of them pulling a large goat attached to a rope.

Moments later, a couple succeed them on their way to their land, they too walking a pair of black goats eager for pasture.

Hundreds of photographs later, we set off for a walk that we considered to be short through the cultivated surroundings. We lingered longer than we counted.

Sugarcane and Grogue Production in the Region

A few meters above, between a solitary coconut tree and shallow banana trees, we came across a peasant. When she sees us, instead of greeting us back, she shows us an ecstatic, uncomplexed dance, and thus we are forced to conclude, drunk.

We praise you and your plantation with the diplomacy that comes to mind. Back at the top of the village, we detect the most likely reason for its animation.

We come across local residents gathered by the local warehouse, around a well of sugar cane juice in which a steaming yellow boil is bubbling. A worker in a beret stirs the liquid with a long shovel.

From time to time, take a sample to a dish and examine the thickness and appearance of the compost.

Dona Teresa and Sr. Zé Maria, owners or, at least, in charge of the warehouse, recognize the photographic effort we put into the operation. They call us aside.

Secure them with a half coconut shell, filled with alcoholized molasses. You know us like sour cherries. Much better than cherry, we must assume it.

Aware of the extreme orographic profile of what we had to do, we rejected a third dose.

Instead, we follow the assembly of the still, a process that proves to be too complex and dragged out for the time we had at our disposal.

Santiago Island Above: by Achada Igreja e Assomada

We say goodbye, grateful for the patience and welcome of the hosts. We've unlocked a bunch of big boulders just barely unloaded.

Once the top of the slope is clear, we return to the asphalt and head towards the north of Santiaguense.

We pass by Achada Igreja (Picos), a village installed on a crest, crowned by the church of São Salvador do Mundo.

And, prominently, by a huge and eccentric boulder. The people of these parts call it Monte Gullance.

He sees in it a man mounted on horseback, with such symbolism for the municipality that he is even compared to the statue of the Marquis of Pombal.

Next is Assomada, the city of Santiago's inland cities, peculiar to match, with its houses divided into two levels, one main and one above, on top of a plateau from which the serrated top of Monte Brianda seems to rise.

Another, symbiotic, lodged at the back of the table.

Assomada is home to the best-stocked and most active market in Santiago, and it is not unknown that the surrounding Santa Catarina county has become the island's undisputed granary.

Santiago, island, Cape Verde, Assomada

The upper and lower houses in Assomada.

The Gale Hills of Serra da Malagueta

We continue through Boa Entrada and Fundura. Soon, through the Serra da Malagueta above, sometimes exposed to some trade winds so powerful that we fear they will see our car.

From these same hills of the Santiaguense gales, still at a good distance, we admire the flatter lands that welcomed Chão Bom, the city of Tarrafal and, between them, the infamous prison camp of Morte Lenta, ordered to be built in 1936 by the government of the Portuguese New State .

They were stops to which we had decided to dedicate their own article. Accordingly, we turn to look west.

We admire the consolidation of the triangular silhouette of the Fogo volcano adorning the homonymous and neighboring island, overlooking and facing the highest lines of Santiago.

Cidade Velha, Cape Verde

Cidade Velha: the Ancient of the Tropico-Colonial Cities

It was the first settlement founded by Europeans below the Tropic of Cancer. In crucial times for Portuguese expansion to Africa and South America and for the slave trade that accompanied it, Cidade Velha became a poignant but unavoidable legacy of Cape Verdean origins.

São Nicolau, Cape Verde

Photography of Nha Terra São Nicolau

The voice of the late Cesária Verde crystallized the feeling of Cape Verdeans who were forced to leave their island. who visits São Nicolau or, wherever it may be, admires images that illustrate it well, understands why its people proudly and forever call it their land.
Chã das Caldeiras, Fogo Island Cape Verde

A "French" Clan at the Mercy of Fire

In 1870, a Count born in Grenoble on his way to Brazilian exile, made a stopover in Cape Verde where native beauties tied him to the island of Fogo. Two of his children settled in the middle of the volcano's crater and continued to raise offspring there. Not even the destruction caused by the recent eruptions deters the prolific Montrond from the “county” they founded in Chã das Caldeiras.    
island of salt, Cape Verde

The Salt of the Island of Sal

At the approach of the XNUMXth century, Sal remained lacking in drinking water and practically uninhabited. Until the extraction and export of the abundant salt there encouraged a progressive population. Today, salt and salt pans add another flavor to the most visited island in Cape Verde.
Boa Vista Island, Cape Verde

Boa Vista Island: Atlantic waves, Dunas do Sara

Boa Vista is not only the Cape Verdean island closest to the African coast and its vast desert. After a few hours of discovery, it convinces us that it is a piece of the Sahara adrift in the North Atlantic.
Santa Maria, Sal Island, Cape Verde

Santa Maria and the Atlantic Blessing of Sal

Santa Maria was founded in the first half of the XNUMXth century, as a salt export warehouse. Today, thanks to the providence of Santa Maria, Sal Ilha is worth much more than the raw material.
Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Up and Down the Estrada da Corda

Santo Antão is the westernmost of the Cape Verde Islands. There lies an Atlantic and rugged threshold of Africa, a majestic insular domain that we begin by unraveling from one end to the other of its dazzling Estrada da Corda.
Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Around the Fogo Island

Time and the laws of geomorphology dictated that the volcano-island of Fogo rounded off like no other in Cape Verde. Discovering this exuberant Macaronesian archipelago, we circled around it against the clock. We are dazzled in the same direction.
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

São Nicolau: Pilgrimage to Terra di Sodade

Forced matches like those that inspired the famous morna “soda” made the pain of having to leave the islands of Cape Verde very strong. Discovering saninclau, between enchantment and wonder, we pursue the genesis of song and melancholy.
Chã das Caldeiras a Mosteiros, Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Chã das Caldeiras to Mosteiros: descent through the Ends of Fogo

With the Cape Verde summit conquered, we sleep and recover in Chã das Caldeiras, in communion with some of the lives at the mercy of the volcano. The next morning, we started the return to the capital São Filipe, 11 km down the road to Mosteiros.
Brava, Cape Verde

Cape Verde Brave Island

During colonization, the Portuguese came across a moist and lush island, something rare in Cape Verde. Brava, the smallest of the inhabited islands and one of the least visited of the archipelago, preserves the authenticity of its somewhat elusive Atlantic and volcanic nature.
Príncipe, São Tomé and Principe

Journey to the Noble Retreat of Príncipe Island

150 km of solitude north of the matriarch São Tomé, the island of Príncipe rises from the deep Atlantic against an abrupt and volcanic mountain-covered jungle setting. Long enclosed in its sweeping tropical nature and a contained but moving Luso-colonial past, this small African island still houses more stories to tell than visitors to listen to.
Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Porto Novo to Ribeira Grande the Seaside Way

Once settled in Porto Novo, Santo Antão, we soon notice two routes to the second largest village on the island. Once surrendered to the monumental up-and-down of Estrada da Corda, the volcanic and Atlantic drama of the coastal alternative dazzles us.
Ponta do Sol a Fontainhas, Santo Antão, Cape Verde

A Vertiginous Journey from Ponta do Sol

We reach the northern tip of Santo Antão and Cape Verde. On a new afternoon of radiant light, we follow the Atlantic bustle of the fishermen and the less coastal day-to-day life of Ponta do Sol. With sunset imminent, we inaugurate a gloomy and intimidating quest of the village of Fontainhas.
Mindelo, São Vicente, Cape Verde

The Miracle of São Vicente

São Vicente has always been arid and inhospitable to match. The challenging colonization of the island subjected the settlers to successive hardships. Until, finally, its providential deep-water bay enabled Mindelo, the most cosmopolitan city and the cultural capital of Cape Verde.
Nova Sintra, Brava, Cape Verde

A Creole Sintra, instead of Saloia

When Portuguese settlers discovered the island of Brava, they noticed its climate, much wetter than most of Cape Verde. Determined to maintain connections with the distant metropolis, they called the main town Nova Sintra.
Tarrafal, Santiago, Cape Verde

The Tarrafal of Freedom and Slow Life

The village of Tarrafal delimits a privileged corner of the island of Santiago, with its few white sand beaches. Those who are enchanted there find it even more difficult to understand the colonial atrocity of the neighboring prison camp.
Ribeira Grande, Santo AntãoCape Verde

Santo Antão, Up the Ribeira Grande

Originally a tiny village, Ribeira Grande followed the course of its history. It became the village, later the city. It has become an eccentric and unavoidable junction on the island of Santo Antão.
Lion, Elephants, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe
PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.
Muktinath to Kagbeni, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Kagbeni
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit 14th - Muktinath to Kagbeni, Nepal

On the Other Side of the Pass

After the demanding crossing of Thorong La, we recover in the cozy village of Muktinath. The next morning we proceed back to lower altitudes. On the way to the ancient kingdom of Upper Mustang and the village of Kagbeni that serves as its gateway.
Music Theater and Exhibition Hall, Tbilisi, Georgia
Architecture & Design
Tbilisi, Georgia

Georgia still Perfumed by the Rose Revolution

In 2003, a popular political uprising made the sphere of power in Georgia tilt from East to West. Since then, the capital Tbilisi has not renounced its centuries of Soviet history, nor the revolutionary assumption of integrating into Europe. When we visit, we are dazzled by the fascinating mix of their past lives.
Totems, Botko Village, Malekula, Vanuatu
Malekula, Vanuatu

Meat and Bone Cannibalism

Until the early XNUMXth century, man-eaters still feasted on the Vanuatu archipelago. In the village of Botko we find out why European settlers were so afraid of the island of Malekula.
orthodox procession
Ceremonies and Festivities
Suzdal, Russia

Centuries of Devotion to a Devoted Monk

Euthymius was a fourteenth-century Russian ascetic who gave himself body and soul to God. His faith inspired Suzdal's religiosity. The city's believers worship him as the saint he has become.
Whale Hunting with Bubbles, Juneau the Little Capital of Great Alaska
Juneau, Alaska

The Little Capital of Greater Alaska

From June to August, Juneau disappears behind cruise ships that dock at its dockside. Even so, it is in this small capital that the fate of the 49th American state is decided.
Singapore Asian Capital Food, Basmati Bismi

The Asian Food Capital

There were 4 ethnic groups in Singapore, each with its own culinary tradition. Added to this was the influence of thousands of immigrants and expatriates on an island with half the area of ​​London. It was the nation with the greatest gastronomic diversity in the Orient.

A Market Economy

The law of supply and demand dictates their proliferation. Generic or specific, covered or open air, these spaces dedicated to buying, selling and exchanging are expressions of life and financial health.
combat arbiter, cockfighting, philippines

When Only Cock Fights Wake Up the Philippines

Banned in much of the First World, cockfighting thrives in the Philippines where they move millions of people and pesos. Despite its eternal problems, it is the sabong that most stimulates the nation.
Tokyo's sophisticated houses, where Couchsurfing and your hosts abound.
Couchsurfing (Part 1)

Mi Casa, Su Casa

In 2003, a new online community globalized an old landscape of hospitality, conviviality and interests. Today, Couchsurfing welcomes millions of travelers, but it shouldn't be taken lightly.
Horseshoe Bend
Navajo nation, USA

The Navajo Nation Lands

From Kayenta to Page, passing through Marble Canyon, we explore the southern Colorado Plateau. Dramatic and desert, the scenery of this indigenous domain, cut out in Arizona, reveals itself to be splendid.
View of Fa Island, Tonga, Last Polynesian Monarchy
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Exotic Signs of Life

Gothic couple

Matarraña to Alcanar, Spain (España)

A Medieval Spain

Traveling through the lands of Aragon and Valencia, we come across towers and detached battlements of houses that fill the slopes. Mile after kilometer, these visions prove to be as anachronistic as they are fascinating.

Passage, Tanna, Vanuatu to the West, Meet the Natives
Tanna, Vanuatu

From where Vanuatu Conquered the Western World

The TV show “Meet the Native” took Tanna's tribal representatives to visit Britain and the USA Visiting their island, we realized why nothing excited them more than returning home.
Horses under a snow, Iceland Never Ending Snow Island Fire
Winter White
Husavik a Myvatn, Iceland

Endless Snow on the Island of Fire

When, in mid-May, Iceland already enjoys some sun warmth but the cold and snow persist, the inhabitants give in to an intriguing summer anxiety.
shadow vs light
Kyoto, Japan

The Kyoto Temple Reborn from the Ashes

The Golden Pavilion has been spared destruction several times throughout history, including that of US-dropped bombs, but it did not withstand the mental disturbance of Hayashi Yoken. When we admired him, he looked like never before.
Incandescent Mouth, Big Island Hawaii, Volcanoes National Park, Lava Rivers
Big Island, Hawaii

Searching for Rivers of Lava

There are five volcanoes that make the big island of Hawaii grow day by day. Kilauea, the most active on Earth, is constantly releasing lava. Despite this, we live a kind of epic to envision it.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Faithful light candles, Milarepa Grotto temple, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Natural Parks
Annapurna Circuit: 9th Manang to Milarepa Cave, Nepal

A Walk between Acclimatization and Pilgrimage

In full Annapurna Circuit, we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). we still need acclimatize to the higher stretches that followed, we inaugurated an equally spiritual journey to a Nepalese cave of Milarepa (4000m), the refuge of a siddha (sage) and Buddhist saint.
One against all, Sera Monastery, Sacred Debate, Tibet
UNESCO World Heritage
Lhasa, Tibet

Sera, the Monastery of the Sacred Debate

In few places in the world a dialect is used as vehemently as in the monastery of Sera. There, hundreds of monks, in Tibetan, engage in intense and raucous debates about the teachings of the Buddha.
now from above ladder, sorcerer of new zealand, Christchurch, new zealand
Christchurch, New Zealand

New Zealand's Cursed Wizard

Despite his notoriety in the antipodes, Ian Channell, the New Zealand sorcerer, failed to predict or prevent several earthquakes that struck Christchurch. At the age of 88, after 23 years of contract with the city, he made very controversial statements and ended up fired.
Dunes of Bazaruto Island, Mozambique
bazaruto, Mozambique

The Inverted Mirage of Mozambique

Just 30km off the East African coast, an unlikely but imposing erg rises out of the translucent sea. Bazaruto it houses landscapes and people who have lived apart for a long time. Whoever lands on this lush, sandy island soon finds himself in a storm of awe.
Jerusalem God, Israel, Golden City
Jerusalem, Israel

Closer to God

Three thousand years of history as mystical as it is troubled come to life in Jerusalem. Worshiped by Christians, Jews and Muslims, this city radiates controversy but attracts believers from all over the world.
Executives sleep subway seat, sleep, sleep, subway, train, Tokyo, Japan
On Rails
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo's Hypno-Passengers

Japan is served by millions of executives slaughtered with infernal work rates and sparse vacations. Every minute of respite on the way to work or home serves them for their inemuri, napping in public.
Creepy Goddess Graffiti, Haight Ashbury, San Francisco, USA, United States America
The Haight, San Francisco, USA

Orphans of the Summer of Love

Nonconformity and creativity are still present in the old Flower Power district. But almost 50 years later, the hippie generation has given way to a homeless, uncontrolled and even aggressive youth.
Saksun, Faroe Islands, Streymoy, warning
Daily life
Saksun, streymoyFaroe Islands

The Faroese Village That Doesn't Want to be Disneyland

Saksun is one of several stunning small villages in the Faroe Islands that more and more outsiders visit. It is distinguished by the aversion to tourists of its main rural owner, author of repeated antipathies and attacks against the invaders of his land.
São João Farm, Pantanal, Miranda, Mato Grosso do Sul, sunset
Fazenda São João, Miranda, Brazil

Pantanal with Paraguay in Sight

When the Fazenda Passo do Lontra decided to expand its ecotourism, it recruited the other family farm, the São João. Further away from the Miranda River, this second property reveals a remote Pantanal, on the verge of Paraguay. The country and the homonymous river.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.