Santiago, Cape Verde

Santiago Island from Bottom to Top

Summits of São Jorge dos Órgãos
The serrated top of the mountains seen from the Mirador de Tancon in São Jorge dos Órgãos.
Assomada II
The upper and lower houses in Assomada.
Bouganvillea girls
Friends pose and play in front of a large colony of bouganvilleas.
Assomada II
A sharp peak protrudes from behind Assomada's houses.
Countryside Dancing
Peasant dances above the great Kamauma Pé di Polón.
At the foot of Pé di Polon
Couple to spare from the great Pé di Polón.
Boiling Cane Juice
A group of producers accompany the boiling of the sugarcane juice.
Alembic Tasks
Elders deal with the assembly of an alembic.
A well-mixed proof of grogue with molasses.
Heavy Load
Peasants carry sacks of grain near the base of the Pé di Polón.
Picos (Achada da Igreja)
Church of the Savior of the World
The Church of St. Savior of the World at the base of Mount Guililância.
Dona Teresa
Resident of Leitãozinho in the vicinity of the local warehouse.
Peaks in the Horizon
Successive peaks above a scattered houses in Santiago.
serra da malagueta
Deep river valley seen from the top of Serra da Malagueta.
fire volcano
The cone of Fogo volcano high above Santiago's highest line.
Tarrafal in sight
The houses of Tarrafal, at the top northwest of the island of Santiago.
The Fogo Island and Volcano
Sunset oranges the horizon and reinforces the silhouette of the island and Fogo volcano.
Landed in the Cape Verdean capital of Praia, we explore its pioneer predecessor city. From Cidade Velha, we follow the stunning mountainous ridge of Santiago to the unobstructed top of Tarrafal.

We arrive at the roundabout that interrupts Circular da Praia near Cape Verde's National Stadium.

Two roundabouts imposed on the parched and thorny vastness distribute traffic to Praia and other directions. A sample of a herd of cows is kept on a central divider in the road leading to the Cidade Velha.

Strange, unexpected, the sight distracts us. It makes us miss the correct exit. We take another walk, accompanied, with suspicion, by the cattle. Finally, following the second roundabout, we hit the north of Santiago.

In a flash, the road narrows. Fits the two most common senses in Cape Verde. A few kilometers later, having crossed the Pedegral and the village of Ribeirão Chiqueiro, it enters a pre-gorge mode that prepares us for the imposing and jagged terrain.

One of the winding roads that passes through Caiada and Água Gato leads us to the municipality of São Lourenço dos Órgãos and to the mountainous and dramatic stronghold to which we hoped to spend some time.

The Mountainous and Verdant Domain of São Jorge dos Órgãos

There, in the most leafy and flowery sector of the Superior School of Agrarian Sciences of the University of Cape Verde, we find the National Botanical Garden Grandvaux Barbosa.

It was created in 1986, named in honor of Luís Augusto Granvaux (1914-1983), a Portuguese botanist hyper-dedicated to the overseas flora, especially to Cape Verde.

In the free rein we used to walk, we preferred to admire it in its context and natural ecosystem. Accordingly, we proceed to the heart of São Jorge dos Órgãos.

Right in the middle of the village, the relief confronts us with the blue church of São Jorge, tucked between elevations with sharp peaks.

We felt the urge to distance ourselves from the houses, to find a worthy vantage point. We got into that way, along a narrow detour, on badly beaten earth that zigzagged up one of the slopes above.

Suspicious about the damage that the aggravated floor could cause to the car, we found in a group of peasant women, sitting on sacks and sacks of dry corn, the ideal pretext to abort the madness.

A Well-Disposed Community of Solidarity Peasants

“We got together here in community work” they explain to us, as if it were a commonplace. “In these more isolated parts, the villagers struggle to handle the crops just for themselves. So we help each other.”

Raised in large part in the countryside of Beiras, we remembered when this community harmony prevailed there. But we were also aware of how individualism and facilitism had wiped it out, especially from the 90s onwards.

Delighted with the survival of this nostalgic solidarity, we surrendered to a chatterbox, in Portuguese familiar to everyone and in Creole badu to which the ladies resorted, among themselves, whenever a new remark or joke was imposed.

In his company, we contemplate the double peak of Pico de Antónia (1394m), the highest point on the island, third in Cape Verde, the heart of a national park of the same name.

Although, in this case, the namesake has to be told. The more we investigate, the more we see how much the name diverged from the zenith of Santiago.

The Unstable Historical and Semantic Context of Santiago roof

Supposedly credible sources explain that, from an early age, the mount was treated by Piku D'Antoni as it was one of the first elevations in Cape Verde recorded by the Genoese navigator António da Noli, in the service of Infante Dom Henrique.

Over time, it was referred to in documents and even in the lyrics of the Cape Verdean popular songbook. Nuns, it appears as António. In others, in the female.

Somewhere during the history of Santiago and its vernacular treatment, the people will have changed the gender of its discoverer. Surrounded by women from Santiago, we agreed.

Gilda, one of them, is late, more than an hour and a half on foot from São Jorge dos Órgãos, the village to which it was convenient for us to return. We give her a lift, we go down the mountain to talk and we give her to her life.

Then we went up to a viewpoint called Tancon. Leaning over its generous parapet, we once again admire Pico de António and its neighbors, now, from west to east, frontal and, as such, more defined and distinguished.

With renewed wonder, we resumed the path. Chã de Vaca is left behind. We alternate between the municipalities of São Lourenço dos Órgãos and the contiguous one of São Salvador do Mundo when a natural monument in Santiago demands a detour to the depths of Leitãozinho.

Pé di Polón: in search of the Biggest Tree in Santiago

We went down to the immediate slope. On the opposite side, we find the plant colossus we were looking for, Pé de Polião, in Creole, Pé di Polón, a baobab or kapok tree (ceiba pentandra) endemic celebrated as Cape Verde's supreme tree and one of the oldest.

At that time, already with some foliage, the woolen tree hung over the thalweg. It was sustained by colossal roots that rippled down the slope, thirsting for the water tables that Santiago's short rainy season unfolded.

Wild on arrival, the place quickly reveals its life to us.

Two young people from the area are walking along a path at the foot of the tree, loaded with sacks overflowing with some grain, as if that wasn't enough, one of them pulling a large goat attached to a rope.

Moments later, a couple succeed them on their way to their land, they too walking a pair of black goats eager for pasture.

Hundreds of photographs later, we set off for a walk that we considered to be short through the cultivated surroundings. We lingered longer than we counted.

Sugarcane and Grogue Production in the Region

A few meters above, between a solitary coconut tree and shallow banana trees, we came across a peasant. When she sees us, instead of greeting us back, she shows us an ecstatic, uncomplexed dance, and thus we are forced to conclude, drunk.

We praise you and your plantation with the diplomacy that comes to mind. Back at the top of the village, we detect the most likely reason for its animation.

We come across local residents gathered by the local warehouse, around a well of sugar cane juice in which a steaming yellow boil is bubbling. A worker in a beret stirs the liquid with a long shovel.

From time to time, take a sample to a dish and examine the thickness and appearance of the compost.

Dona Teresa and Sr. Zé Maria, owners or, at least, in charge of the warehouse, recognize the photographic effort we put into the operation. They call us aside.

Secure them with a half coconut shell, filled with alcoholized molasses. You know us like sour cherries. Much better than cherry, we must assume it.

Aware of the extreme orographic profile of what we had to do, we rejected a third dose.

Instead, we follow the assembly of the still, a process that proves to be too complex and dragged out for the time we had at our disposal.

Santiago Island Above: by Achada Igreja e Assomada

We say goodbye, grateful for the patience and welcome of the hosts. We've unlocked a bunch of big boulders just barely unloaded.

Once the top of the slope is clear, we return to the asphalt and head towards the north of Santiaguense.

We pass by Achada Igreja (Picos), a village installed on a crest, crowned by the church of São Salvador do Mundo.

And, prominently, by a huge and eccentric boulder. The people of these parts call it Monte Gullance.

He sees in it a man mounted on horseback, with such symbolism for the municipality that he is even compared to the statue of the Marquis of Pombal.

Next is Assomada, the city of Santiago's inland cities, peculiar to match, with its houses divided into two levels, one main and one above, on top of a plateau from which the serrated top of Monte Brianda seems to rise.

Another, symbiotic, lodged at the back of the table.

Assomada is home to the best-stocked and most active market in Santiago, and it is not unknown that the surrounding Santa Catarina county has become the island's undisputed granary.

Santiago, island, Cape Verde, Assomada

The upper and lower houses in Assomada.

The Gale Hills of Serra da Malagueta

We continue through Boa Entrada and Fundura. Soon, through the Serra da Malagueta above, sometimes exposed to some trade winds so powerful that we fear they will see our car.

From these same hills of the Santiaguense gales, still at a good distance, we admire the flatter lands that welcomed Chão Bom, the city of Tarrafal and, between them, the infamous prison camp of Morte Lenta, ordered to be built in 1936 by the government of the Portuguese New State .

They were stops to which we had decided to dedicate their own article. Accordingly, we turn to look west.

We admire the consolidation of the triangular silhouette of the Fogo volcano adorning the homonymous and neighboring island, overlooking and facing the highest lines of Santiago.

Cidade Velha, Cape Verde

Cidade Velha: the Ancient of the Tropico-Colonial Cities

It was the first settlement founded by Europeans below the Tropic of Cancer. In crucial times for Portuguese expansion to Africa and South America and for the slave trade that accompanied it, Cidade Velha became a poignant but unavoidable legacy of Cape Verdean origins.

São Nicolau, Cape Verde

Photography of Nha Terra São Nicolau

The voice of the late Cesária Verde crystallized the feeling of Cape Verdeans who were forced to leave their island. who visits São Nicolau or, wherever it may be, admires images that illustrate it well, understands why its people proudly and forever call it their land.
Chã das Caldeiras, Fogo Island Cape Verde

A "French" Clan at the Mercy of Fire

In 1870, a Count born in Grenoble on his way to Brazilian exile, made a stopover in Cape Verde where native beauties tied him to the island of Fogo. Two of his children settled in the middle of the volcano's crater and continued to raise offspring there. Not even the destruction caused by the recent eruptions deters the prolific Montrond from the “county” they founded in Chã das Caldeiras.    
island of salt, Cape Verde

The Salt of the Island of Sal

At the approach of the XNUMXth century, Sal remained lacking in drinking water and practically uninhabited. Until the extraction and export of the abundant salt there encouraged a progressive population. Today, salt and salt pans add another flavor to the most visited island in Cape Verde.
Boa Vista Island, Cape Verde

Boa Vista Island: Atlantic waves, Dunas do Sara

Boa Vista is not only the Cape Verdean island closest to the African coast and its vast desert. After a few hours of discovery, it convinces us that it is a piece of the Sahara adrift in the North Atlantic.
Santa Maria, Sal Island, Cape Verde

Santa Maria and the Atlantic Blessing of Sal

Santa Maria was founded in the first half of the XNUMXth century, as a salt export warehouse. Today, thanks to the providence of Santa Maria, Sal Ilha is worth much more than the raw material.
Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Up and Down the Estrada da Corda

Santo Antão is the westernmost of the Cape Verde Islands. There lies an Atlantic and rugged threshold of Africa, a majestic insular domain that we begin by unraveling from one end to the other of its dazzling Estrada da Corda.
Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Around the Fogo Island

Time and the laws of geomorphology dictated that the volcano-island of Fogo rounded off like no other in Cape Verde. Discovering this exuberant Macaronesian archipelago, we circled around it against the clock. We are dazzled in the same direction.
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

São Nicolau: Pilgrimage to Terra di Sodade

Forced matches like those that inspired the famous morna “soda” made the pain of having to leave the islands of Cape Verde very strong. Discovering saninclau, between enchantment and wonder, we pursue the genesis of song and melancholy.
Chã das Caldeiras a Mosteiros, Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Chã das Caldeiras to Mosteiros: descent through the Ends of Fogo

With the Cape Verde summit conquered, we sleep and recover in Chã das Caldeiras, in communion with some of the lives at the mercy of the volcano. The next morning, we started the return to the capital São Filipe, 11 km down the road to Mosteiros.
Brava, Cape Verde

Cape Verde Brave Island

During colonization, the Portuguese came across a moist and lush island, something rare in Cape Verde. Brava, the smallest of the inhabited islands and one of the least visited of the archipelago, preserves the authenticity of its somewhat elusive Atlantic and volcanic nature.
Príncipe, São Tomé and Principe

Journey to the Noble Retreat of Príncipe Island

150 km of solitude north of the matriarch São Tomé, the island of Príncipe rises from the deep Atlantic against an abrupt and volcanic mountain-covered jungle setting. Long enclosed in its sweeping tropical nature and a contained but moving Luso-colonial past, this small African island still houses more stories to tell than visitors to listen to.
Rhinoceros, PN Kaziranga, Assam, India
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
Thorong La, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, photo for posterity
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit 13th: High camp - Thorong La - Muktinath, Nepal

At the height of the Annapurnas Circuit

At 5416m of altitude, the Thorong La Gorge is the great challenge and the main cause of anxiety on the itinerary. After having killed 2014 climbers in October 29, crossing it safely generates a relief worthy of double celebration.
Bay Watch cabin, Miami beach, beach, Florida, United States,
Architecture & Design
Miami beach, USA

The Beach of All Vanities

Few coastlines concentrate, at the same time, so much heat and displays of fame, wealth and glory. Located in the far southeast of the USA, Miami Beach is accessed by six bridges that connect it to the rest of Florida. It is manifestly meager for the number of souls who desire it.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.
Military Religious, Wailing Wall, IDF Flag Oath, Jerusalem, Israel
Ceremonies and Festivities
Jerusalem, Israel

A Festive Wailing Wall

The holiest place in Judaism is not only attended by prayers and prayers. Its ancient stones have witnessed the oath of new IDF recruits for decades and echo the euphoric screams that follow.
Casario de Ushuaia, last of the cities, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
Ushuaia, Argentina

The Last of the Southern Cities

The capital of Tierra del Fuego marks the southern threshold of civilization. From Ushuaia depart numerous incursions to the frozen continent. None of these play and run adventures compares to life in the final city.
Margilan, Uzbekistan

An Uzbekistan's Breadwinner

In one of the many bakeries in Margilan, worn out by the intense heat of the tandyr oven, the baker Maruf'Jon works half-baked like the distinctive traditional breads sold throughout Uzbekistan
Busy intersection of Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo, Japan

The Endless Night of the Rising Sun Capital

Say that Tokyo do not sleep is an understatement. In one of the largest and most sophisticated cities on the face of the Earth, twilight marks only the renewal of the frenetic daily life. And there are millions of souls that either find no place in the sun, or make more sense in the “dark” and obscure turns that follow.
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
Plane landing, Maho beach, Sint Maarten
Maho Beach, Sint Maarten

The Jet-powered Caribbean Beach

At first glance, Princess Juliana International Airport appears to be just another one in the vast Caribbean. Successive landings skimming Maho beach that precedes its runway, jet take-offs that distort the faces of bathers and project them into the sea, make it a special case.
Horseshoe Bend
Navajo nation, USA

The Navajo Nation Lands

From Kayenta to Page, passing through Marble Canyon, we explore the southern Colorado Plateau. Dramatic and desert, the scenery of this indigenous domain, cut out in Arizona, reveals itself to be splendid.
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

life outside

Missions, San Ignacio Mini, Argentina
San Ignacio Mini, Argentina

The Impossible Jesuit Missions of San Ignacio Mini

In the century. In the XNUMXth century, the Jesuits expanded a religious domain in the heart of South America by converting the Guarani Indians into Jesuit missions. But the Iberian Crowns ruined the tropical utopia of the Society of Jesus.
Mexcaltitán, Nayarit, Mexico, from the air
Mexcaltitan, Nayarit, Mexico

An Island Between Myth and Mexican Genesis

Mexcaltitán is a rounded lake island, full of houses and which, during the rainy season, is only passable by boat. It is still believed that it could be Aztlán. The village that the Aztecs left in a wandering that ended with the foundation of Tenochtitlan, the capital of the empire that the Spanish would conquer.
coast, fjord, Seydisfjordur, Iceland
Winter White
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Kukenam reward
Mount Roraima, Venezuela

Time Travel to the Lost World of Mount Roraima

Persist on top of Mte. Roraima extraterrestrial scenarios that have withstood millions of years of erosion. Conan Doyle created, in "The Lost World", a fiction inspired by the place but never set foot on it.
El Cofete beach from the top of El Islote, Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, Spain
Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

Fuerteventura's Atlantic Ventura

The Romans knew the Canaries as the lucky islands. Fuerteventura, preserves many of the attributes of that time. Its perfect beaches for the windsurf and the kite-surfing or just for bathing, they justify successive “invasions” by the sun-hungry northern peoples. In the volcanic and rugged interior, the bastion of the island's indigenous and colonial cultures remains. We started to unravel it along its long south.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Zambia
Natural Parks
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwee

Livingstone's Thundering Gift

The explorer was looking for a route to the Indian Ocean when natives led him to a jump of the Zambezi River. The falls he found were so majestic that he decided to name them in honor of his queen
Uxmal, Yucatan, Mayan capital, the Pyramid of the Diviner
UNESCO World Heritage
Uxmal, Yucatan, Mexico

The Mayan Capital That Piled It Up To Collapse

The term Uxmal means built three times. In the long pre-Hispanic era of dispute in the Mayan world, the city had its heyday, corresponding to the top of the Pyramid of the Diviner at its heart. It will have been abandoned before the Spanish Conquest of the Yucatan. Its ruins are among the most intact on the Yucatan Peninsula.
aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
Viti Levu, Fiji Islands, South Pacific, coral reef
Viti levu, Fiji

Islands on the edge of Islands

A substantial part of Fiji preserves the agricultural expansions of the British colonial era. In the north and off the large island of Viti Levu, we also came across plantations that have only been named for a long time.
gaudy courtship
Suzdal, Russia

Thousand Years of Old Fashioned Russia

It was a lavish capital when Moscow was just a rural hamlet. Along the way, it lost political relevance but accumulated the largest concentration of churches, monasteries and convents in the country of the tsars. Today, beneath its countless domes, Suzdal is as orthodox as it is monumental.
Executives sleep subway seat, sleep, sleep, subway, train, Tokyo, Japan
On Rails
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo's Hypno-Passengers

Japan is served by millions of executives slaughtered with infernal work rates and sparse vacations. Every minute of respite on the way to work or home serves them for their inemuri, napping in public.
Police intervention, ultra-Orthodox Jews, Jaffa, Tel Aviv, Israel
Jaffa, Israel

Unorthodox protests

A building in Jaffa, Tel Aviv, threatened to desecrate what ultra-Orthodox Jews thought were remnants of their ancestors. And even the revelation that they were pagan tombs did not deter them from the contestation.
the projectionist
Daily life
Sainte-Luce, Martinique

The Nostalgic Projectionist

From 1954 to 1983, Gérard Pierre screened many of the famous films arriving in Martinique. 30 years after the closing of the room in which he worked, it was still difficult for this nostalgic native to change his reel.
Masai Mara Reservation, Masai Land Travel, Kenya, Masai Convivial
Masai Mara, Kenya

A Journey Through the Masai Lands

The Mara savannah became famous for the confrontation between millions of herbivores and their predators. But, in a reckless communion with wildlife, it is the Masai humans who stand out there.
Full Dog Mushing
Scenic Flights
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.