Rostov Veliky, Russia

Under the Domes of the Russian Soul


1001 Russian Nights
Domes of the Rostov Kremlin, considered the most impressive in Russia, after that of Moscow.
Lake expedition
Boatman and passengers just set sail for the middle of Lake Nero.
Holy works I
Fresco painting students dedicated to their works inside the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior.
The margin
The Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior with Lake Nero in between.
flames of faith
Orthodox faithful light candles in the middle of the nave of one of the churches of the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior.
The cathedral
Building of the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior with Lake Nero behind.
mass on sight
Two generations of Orthodox faithful with the characteristic scarf, on their way to religious service
medieval russian fashion
Russian visitor from kremlin has fun in an old-time costume...
Beards of Orthodoxy
Father Ignatio at the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery (of Saint Jacob the Savior).
supreme attention
Visitors admire the frescoes on the ceiling of one of the Orthodox churches in the Rostov Kremlin.
vaults of time
Domes of the Rostov Kremlin, high above the walls and the row of adjoining shops.
holy works II
Fresco painting students dedicated to their works inside the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior.
Unexpected passengers
Boatman from Lake Nero and cats eager to board.
Beards of Orthodoxy II
Orthodox priest on his way to a late-afternoon church service.
The test
Scene from a matchmaking photo shoot inside the Rostov Kremlin.
Vaults of Time II
More secular domes, those of an old church on the outskirts of Rostov Veliky.
shadows of power
Local cyclist passes in front of the walls of the Rostov Kremlin.
X 2
Reflection in the small lake inside the Rostov Veliky Kremlin.
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It is one of the oldest and most important medieval cities, founded during the still pagan origins of the nation of the tsars. At the end of the XNUMXth century, incorporated into the Grand Duchy of Moscow, it became an imposing center of orthodox religiosity. Today, only the splendor of kremlin Muscovite trumps the citadel of tranquil and picturesque Rostov Veliky.

An Orthodox Coexistence (but not too much)

More than unexpected, Father Ignatio's welcome and guided tour are magical. The priest of the Russian Orthodox Church spoke little or nothing but his native dialect.

Even so, from inside his black cassock, the good-natured face and the full almost red beard from which hung a large golden crucifix – conventional Catholic, not Byzantine – emanated a kind of “feel free, the church is also yours” that stimulated and comforted us.

Father Ignatio at Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery, Rostov, Russia

Father Ignatio at the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery (of Saint Jacob the Savior).

Alexei Kravchenko had been with us from the moment we had left the airport in Domodedovo, on the outskirts of Moscow, the night before.

We walked with us through the darkened labyrinth of staircases and corridors inside the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery (St. Jacob the Savior), long revered as the shrine of Saint Demetrius of Rostov, a bishop of the Ukrainian and Russian Orthodox Church who lived during the century XVII.

Alexei translated part of Ignatio's explanations and pleas. Proud to have come so far and to learn about his work there, Ignatio spares no effort. We climb stairs that serve complex structures of wooden scaffolding erected against the temple's enormous walls.

Ignatio had installed an authentic fresco painting school there. Spread over several levels and under a honey-toned light, young students set about painting originals and replicas inspired by prolific Orthodox iconography.

Painting students at the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior, Rostov, Russia

Trio of fresco painting students dedicated to their works inside the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior.

We salute them and peek and photograph some of the dazzling works in progress. More concerned with the trajectories of sensitive brushes, they reciprocate timidly.

Besides these religious images, Ignatio also knew the richness of the landscape that the monastery could reveal to us. We continue, thus, up stairs until we reach a central balcony that gives us a central view of the vault and cupolas of the largest church in the complex, with Lake Nero behind.

Building of the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior and Lake Nero, Rostov, Russia

Building of the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior with Lake Nero behind

We return to the brick and glass interior of the vault we were in. A figure that appears out of nowhere and almost frightens us, introduces itself in Portuguese and leaves us even more astonished: “Hello, as you are friends, welcome!”

Aware of our nationality, Ignatio had seen fit to invite a friend to meet us. "Do you know where I live and work?" It starts by questioning us Sergei. "It won't be easy to guess."

Probably still the result of old communist exchanges between the MPLA party and the USSR, a doctor by profession, Sergei had been part of the Maputo Central Hospital team for a long time. He spoke an almost fluent Portuguese that kept us in conversation, at least, until Ignatio asked him again.

Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior and Lake Nero, Rostov Veliky, Russia

The Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior with Lake Nero in between

Russian style mass

From that high, dark and hidden corner of the monastery, we move on to its unfolded choir. There, we appreciate the wide, orthodox and multicolored elegance of the surrounding nave. Out of nowhere, a priest “brother” of Ignatio dressed in a glossy yellow chasuble appears and traverses the red and yellow-brown diamond floor, in almost automatic trajectories.

Orthodox faithful inside churches of the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior, Rostov, Russia

Orthodox faithful light candles in the middle of the nave of one of the churches of the Monastery of Saint Jacob the Savior.

Approaching the entrance, he blesses a group of believing women, all of them with their hair wrapped in respectful scarves. Meanwhile, others who wear black smocks are placed in a stronghold opposite to the ladies. There they inaugurate a sequence of liturgical chants interspersed with the words of the homily.

On that panoramic summit where we were all supervising, the orthodoxy of the rite resonated twice as much. It entered us through the ears and the brain. With such volume and gravity that it intimidated us.

We had lost track of time. Even if, at that time and at that latitude, the summer days remained long, when we left the monastery, the afternoon, until then sunny and resplendent, pointed towards darkness.

Alexei greatly appreciated the Russia classic and ancient that revealed to us. Thus, he remembered another secular church, hidden in the green countryside of the Yaroslav Oblast (the province of Russian Federation where we were walking), about 20 km.

Orthodox Church, Rostov, Russia

More secular domes, those of an old church on the outskirts of Rostov Veliky

another church, another mass

Orthodox faithful on their way to Mass, Rostov, Russia

Two generations of Orthodox faithful wearing the distinctive scarf on their way to religious service

Enchanted with the prospect of following the sunset there, he urges us to make the journey. When we were confronted with its white-brick building, the local liturgy was about to begin. More women in scarves cross a gate centered on a wooden fence.

Others talk in the shade of the surrounding trees. They only hurried through them when the priest appointed there, owner of a superb walk and bearing and austere and serious features that, under a cassock with long sleeves and a headdress hat, unlike what had happened with Ignatio, inspired us with mystery and awe.

Orthodox priest, Rostov, Russia

Orthodox priest on his way to a late-afternoon service

The faithful gather inside the church. This time, the three of us were left to enjoy the blessing that the surrounding nature granted us, delighted with the gentle breeze that made the trees undulate, with the chopped flights of swallows and the distant croaking of crows.

The sun no longer shines on the silver-domed castro of another old church at the opposite end of the path and the afterglow coincides with the end of the service. Give us the signal we've been waiting for to return to Rostov.

Alexei had driven much of the night before between Saint Petersburg and Moscow, in time to receive us. We, had suffered something similar to take the flight.

Back to Rostov Veliky

No surprises, after a cold soup dinner okroshka and of a kind of gnocchi what the russians call pelmenis, accompanied by mugs of kvass (fermented rye drink) We return to the rooms of Khors Guesthouse & Gallery. Shortly thereafter, we surrendered to the sleep we were indebted to.

Cyclist passes in front of Rostov Kremlin, Russia

Local cyclist passes in front of the walls of the Rostov Kremlin.

We wake up to the inn's chickens and roosters. We left Alexei to his private weariness and set out to discover. The inn was just a short distance from Rostov's Kremlin, a walled citadel from which towered towers and towers, and a battalion of towering domes.

Successive Ladas, Volgas and similar Soviet automobile relics pass through the base of the walls which, along one of the main streets, housed several of the city's convenient commercial establishments. The surreal vision of the huge churches whets our curiosity and anxiety and leads us to an early incursion.

Rostov Kremlin, Russia

Domes of the Rostov Kremlin, high above the walls and the adjoining chain of shops

An incursion into the Kremlin

Inside, we unveil the parallel life hitherto hidden in the Kremlin. A matchmaking photo session takes place, passing through the most photogenic corners of the old fortress.

At the edge of her small lake, successive ladies wear medieval costumes, without much chance of rivaling the premarital elegance and lightness of the bride. Young people given over to small canvases struggle with the challenging perspectives of their paintings.

Inner lake of Rostov Veliky Kremlin, Russia.

Reflection in the small lake inside the Rostov Veliky Kremlin.

And groups organized behind guides, follow the religious symbology and the historical depth of the panoply of frescoes that, full of sages and Orthodox saints, decorated the central nave.

It took many centuries of war and peace for Rostov to aggrandize himself and deserve the visits and reverence that are now devoted to him.

These centuries took it from a mere settlement of the Finnish Merya tribe, to a Viking trading post, and later, Scythian, the capital of one of the many principalities that came under the control of the powerful Tartars. Shortly after, to one of the main cities of the Grand Duchy of Moscow.

During all this time, Rostov has remained an unavoidable seat of the Russian bishopric and archbishopric, of Russian religiosity in general. Built during the XNUMXth century, in the wake of Mongolian and Polish-Lithuanian invasions, the Kremlin we were exploring established the culmination of its aggrandizement.

And yet, shortly thereafter, Rostov found herself surpassed in administrative importance by Yaroslav. The historical hiatus and corresponding civilizational stagnation into which it fell does not mean that it continues to be known as Rostov Veliky (the Great), an equally useful way of distinguishing it from its Russian counterpart Rostov-on-Don, which is a much larger, modern city. , on the banks of the river Don.

In search of domes, by rowboat

During its more than a thousand years, Rostov has maintained the now liquid and now cold company of Nero, a lake supplied by eight rivers, yet shallow (3.6 m maximum depth, 13 by 8 km long). We left the Kremlin.

Boatman and passengers on Lake Nero, Rostov Veliky, Russia

Boatman and passengers just set sail for the middle of Lake Nero.

We walk along the immediate bank, next to the amphibious cane fields that precede its greenish immensity. We pass through several of the docks and walkways that serve the izbas (wooden houses) riverside. One of these structures housed a small fleet of metallic pleasure craft.

When we reach the other, a boat approaches land and your private anchorage. On board, a fifty-year-old helmsman in a naval commander's hat rows for two mothers and their offspring. A mere hundred meters away, a neighbor and rival that has just anchored is greeted by two cats – one black and one brown – waiting for him, eager to board.

Boatman and cats on Lake Nero, Rostov Veliky, Russia

Boatman from Lake Nero and cats eager to board.

Infected by these successive scenes of evasion and leisure, we aspire to our own navigation. We rent a boat. We set off to paddle out into the middle of the lake, aware of the height to which the Kremlin was projecting and intrigued by what the view from there had in store.

A good dozen strokes later, the yearning is confirmed. We see a forest of towers and domes standing out from the verdant bottom of the bank. Some are silver, some lead gray, some dark green, set on a large pale pink turret.

Rostov Veliky Kremlin, Russia

Domes of the Rostov Kremlin, considered the most impressive in Russia, after Moscow.

The further we go, the more domes insinuate themselves against the late-afternoon, summer and continental sky, laden with humidity, blue to match. The more domes we unveil, the more pompous history of Rostov Veliky and the old woman Russia it shines and dazzles us.

TAP flies from Lisbon to Moscow on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 2:3 pm, arriving at 5:6 am.  Fly from Moscow to Lisbon on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 3:4 am, arrival at 6:07 am.

Novgorod, Russia

Mother Russia's Viking Grandmother

For most of the past century, the USSR authorities have omitted part of the origins of the Russian people. But history leaves no room for doubt. Long before the rise and supremacy of the tsars and the soviets, the first Scandinavian settlers founded their mighty nation in Novgorod.
Saint Petersburg e Mikhaylovkoe, Russia

The Writer Who Succumbed to His Own Plot

Alexander Pushkin is hailed by many as the greatest Russian poet and the founder of modern Russian literature. But Pushkin also dictated an almost tragicomic epilogue to his prolific life.
Suzdal, Russia

Centuries of Devotion to a Devoted Monk

Euthymius was a fourteenth-century Russian ascetic who gave himself body and soul to God. His faith inspired Suzdal's religiosity. The city's believers worship him as the saint he has become.
Saint Petersburg, Russia

When the Russian Navy Stations in Saint Petersburg

Russia dedicates the last Sunday of July to its naval forces. On that day, a crowd visits large boats moored on the Neva River as alcohol-drenched sailors seize the city.
Suzdal, Russia

The Suzdal Cucumber Celebrations

With summer and warm weather, the Russian city of Suzdal relaxes from its ancient religious orthodoxy. The old town is also famous for having the best cucumbers in the nation. When July arrives, it turns the newly harvested into a real festival.
Suzdal, Russia

Thousand Years of Old Fashioned Russia

It was a lavish capital when Moscow was just a rural hamlet. Along the way, it lost political relevance but accumulated the largest concentration of churches, monasteries and convents in the country of the tsars. Today, beneath its countless domes, Suzdal is as orthodox as it is monumental.
Solovetsky Islands, Russia

The Mother Island of the Gulag Archipelago

It hosted one of Russia's most powerful Orthodox religious domains, but Lenin and Stalin turned it into a gulag. With the fall of the USSR, Solovestky regains his peace and spirituality.
Saint Petersburg, Russia

On the track of "Crime and Punishment"

In St. Petersburg, we cannot resist investigating the inspiration for the base characters in Fyodor Dostoevsky's most famous novel: his own pities and the miseries of certain fellow citizens.
Bolshoi Zayatsky, Russia

Mysterious Russian Babylons

A set of prehistoric spiral labyrinths made of stones decorate Bolshoi Zayatsky Island, part of the Solovetsky archipelago. Devoid of explanations as to when they were erected or what it meant, the inhabitants of these northern reaches of Europe call them vavilons.
Bolshoi Solovetsky, Russia

A Celebration of the Russian Autumn of Life

At the edge of the Arctic Ocean, in mid-September, the boreal foliage glows golden. Welcomed by generous cicerones, we praise the new human times of Bolshoi Solovetsky, famous for having hosted the first of the Soviet Gulag prison camps.
Moscow, Russia

The Supreme Fortress of Russia

There were many kremlins built, over time, in the vastness of the country of the tsars. None stands out, as monumental as that of the capital Moscow, a historic center of despotism and arrogance that, from Ivan the Terrible to Vladimir Putin, for better or worse, dictated Russia's destiny.
Kronstadt, Russia

The Autumn of the Russian Island-City of All Crossroads

Founded by Peter the Great, it became the port and naval base protecting Saint Petersburg and northern Greater Russia. In March 1921, it rebelled against the Bolsheviks it had supported during the October Revolution. In this October we're going through, Kronstadt is once again covered by the same exuberant yellow of uncertainty.
Rhinoceros, PN Kaziranga, Assam, India
Safari
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
Prayer flags in Ghyaru, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 4th – Upper Banana to Ngawal, Nepal

From Nightmare to Dazzle

Unbeknownst to us, we are faced with an ascent that leads us to despair. We pulled our strength as far as possible and reached Ghyaru where we felt closer than ever to the Annapurnas. The rest of the way to Ngawal felt like a kind of extension of the reward.
Luderitz, Namibia
Architecture & Design
Lüderitz, Namibia

Wilkommen in Africa

Chancellor Bismarck has always disdained overseas possessions. Against his will and all odds, in the middle of the Race for Africa, merchant Adolf Lüderitz forced Germany to take over an inhospitable corner of the continent. The homonymous city prospered and preserves one of the most eccentric heritages of the Germanic empire.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Adventure
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.
Newar celebration, Bhaktapur, Nepal
Ceremonies and Festivities
Bhaktapur, Nepal

The Nepalese Masks of Life

The Newar Indigenous People of the Kathmandu Valley attach great importance to the Hindu and Buddhist religiosity that unites them with each other and with the Earth. Accordingly, he blesses their rites of passage with newar dances of men masked as deities. Even if repeated long ago from birth to reincarnation, these ancestral dances do not elude modernity and begin to see an end.
Candia, Tooth of Buddha, Ceylon, lake
Cities
Kandy, Sri Lanka

The Dental Root of Sinhalese Buddhism

Located in the mountainous heart of Sri Lanka, at the end of the XNUMXth century, Kandy became the capital of the last kingdom of old Ceylon and resisted successive colonial conquest attempts. The city also preserved and exhibited a sacred tooth of the Buddha and, thus, became Ceylon's Buddhist center.
Beverage Machines, Japan
Meal
Japan

The Beverage Machines Empire

There are more than 5 million ultra-tech light boxes spread across the country and many more exuberant cans and bottles of appealing drinks. The Japanese have long since stopped resisting them.
mini-snorkeling
Culture
Phi Phi Islands, Thailand

Back to Danny Boyle's The Beach

It's been 15 years since the debut of the backpacker classic based on the novel by Alex Garland. The film popularized the places where it was shot. Shortly thereafter, the XNUMX tsunami literally washed some away off the map. Today, their controversial fame remains intact.
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Sport
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
Traveling
Annapurna Circuit: 5th - Ngawal a BragaNepal

Towards the Nepalese Braga

We spent another morning of glorious weather discovering Ngawal. There is a short journey towards Manang, the main town on the way to the zenith of the Annapurna circuit. We stayed for Braga (Braka). The hamlet would soon prove to be one of its most unforgettable places.
Elalab, aerial view, Guinea Bissau
Ethnic
Elalab, Guinea Bissau

A Tabanca in the Guinea of ​​Endless Meanders

There are countless tributaries and channels that, to the north of the great Cacheu River, wind through mangroves and soak up dry land. Against all odds, Felupe people settled there and maintain prolific villages surrounded by rice fields. Elalab, one of those villages, has become one of the most natural and exuberant tabancas in Guinea Bissau.
sunlight photography, sun, lights
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 2)

One Sun, So Many Lights

Most travel photos are taken in sunlight. Sunlight and weather form a capricious interaction. Learn how to predict, detect and use at its best.
Vairocana Buddha, Todai ji Temple, Nara, Japan
History
Nara, Japan

The Colossal Cradle of the Japanese Buddhism

Nara has long since ceased to be the capital and its Todai-ji temple has been demoted. But the Great Hall remains the largest ancient wooden building in the world. And it houses the greatest bronze Vairocana Buddha.
Santa Maria, Sal Island, Cape Verde, Landing
Islands
Santa Maria, Sal Island, Cape Verde

Santa Maria and the Atlantic Blessing of Sal

Santa Maria was founded in the first half of the XNUMXth century, as a salt export warehouse. Today, thanks to the providence of Santa Maria, Sal Ilha is worth much more than the raw material.
Geothermal, Iceland Heat, Ice Land, Geothermal, Blue Lagoon
Winter White
Iceland

The Geothermal Coziness of the Ice Island

Most visitors value Iceland's volcanic scenery for its beauty. Icelanders also draw from them heat and energy crucial to the life they lead to the Arctic gates.
Baie d'Oro, Île des Pins, New Caledonia
Literature
Île-des-Pins, New Caledonia

The Island that Leaned against Paradise

In 1964, Katsura Morimura delighted the Japan with a turquoise novel set in Ouvéa. But the neighboring Île-des-Pins has taken over the title "The Nearest Island to Paradise" and thrills its visitors.
kings canyon, red centre, heart, australia
Nature
Red Center, Australia

Australia's Broken Heart

The Red Center is home to some of Australia's must-see natural landmarks. We are impressed by the grandeur of the scenarios but also by the renewed incompatibility of its two civilizations.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Agua Grande Platform, Iguacu Falls, Brazil, Argentina
Natural Parks
Iguazu/Iguazu Falls, Brazil/Argentina

The Great Water Thunder

After a long tropical journey, the Iguaçu River gives a dip for diving. There, on the border between Brazil and Argentina, form the largest and most impressive waterfalls on the face of the Earth.
Engravings, Karnak Temple, Luxor, Egypt
UNESCO World Heritage
luxor, Egypt

From Luxor to Thebes: Journey to Ancient Egypt

Thebes was raised as the new supreme capital of the Egyptian Empire, the seat of Amon, the God of Gods. Modern Luxor inherited the Temple of Karnak and its sumptuousness. Between one and the other flow the sacred Nile and millennia of dazzling history.
now from above ladder, sorcerer of new zealand, Christchurch, new zealand
Characters
Christchurch, New Zealand

New Zealand's Cursed Wizard

Despite his notoriety in the antipodes, Ian Channell, the New Zealand sorcerer, failed to predict or prevent several earthquakes that struck Christchurch. At the age of 88, after 23 years of contract with the city, he made very controversial statements and ended up fired.
Magnificent Atlantic Days
Beaches
Morro de São Paulo, Brazil

A Divine Seaside of Bahia

Three decades ago, it was just a remote and humble fishing village. Until some post-hippie communities revealed the Morro's retreat to the world and promoted it to a kind of bathing sanctuary.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Religion
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Train Fianarantsoa to Manakara, Malagasy TGV, locomotive
On Rails
Fianarantsoa-Manakara, Madagascar

On board the Malagasy TGV

We depart Fianarantsoa at 7a.m. It wasn't until 3am the following morning that we completed the 170km to Manakara. The natives call this almost secular train Train Great Vibrations. During the long journey, we felt, very strongly, those of the heart of Madagascar.
cowboys oceania, rodeo, el caballo, perth, australia
Society
Perth, Australia

The Oceania Cowboys

Texas is on the other side of the world, but there is no shortage of cowboys in the country of koalas and kangaroos. Outback rodeos recreate the original version and 8 seconds lasts no less in the Australian Western.
Coin return
Daily life
Dawki, India

Dawki, Dawki, Bangladesh on sight

We descended from the high and mountainous lands of Meghalaya to the flats to the south and below. There, the translucent and green stream of the Dawki forms the border between India and Bangladesh. In a damp heat that we haven't felt for a long time, the river also attracts hundreds of Indians and Bangladeshis in a picturesque escape.
Crocodiles, Queensland Tropical Australia Wild
Wildlife
Cairns to Cape Tribulation, Australia

Tropical Queensland: An Australia Too Wild

Cyclones and floods are just the meteorological expression of Queensland's tropical harshness. When it's not the weather, it's the deadly fauna of the region that keeps its inhabitants on their toes.
Full Dog Mushing
Scenic Flights
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.