Rolas Islet, São Tomé and Principe

Rolas Islet: São Tomé and Principe at Latitude Zero


Whale Point
Passengers about to board the Ponta da Baleia anchorage.
Ex-trunk canoes
Handcrafted canoes safe from the waves near the Ponta da Baleia anchorage.
View of Pico Cão Grande
Panorama of the south of the island of São Tomé with Pico Cão-Grande in the distance.
on board the ferry
Helmsman and passengers during the trip to Ilhéu das Rolas.
Porto Alegre
Palm trees above the Porto Alegre farm, in the south of the island of São Tomé.
strange navigation
Two São Toméans in boats of different categories.
Pillory II
Pillory in front of the main colonial farm of Ilhéu das Rolas.
the jetty
Boatman on the pier of Ilhéu das Rolas.
chapel of St. Francis of Xavier
São Francisco Chapel, one of the buildings that passengers see upon arrival at Ilhéu das Rolas.
the boatman
Helmsman of the ferry that connects Ponta da Baleia to Ilhéu das Rolas.
The Coconut Tree Trail
Trail of Rolas islet flanked by large coconut trees.
Dirty Pigs
Pigs roam the equatorial jungle of Ilhéu das Rolas.
the pillory
Portuguese colonial pillory next to the wharf of Ilhéu das Rolas.
shadow duo
Couple passes under a leafy tree of Ilhéu das Rolas.
Lonely Coconut
Acrobatic palm tree in a bay of Ilhéu das Rolas facing east.
tropical cove
Inlet in the south of Ilhéu das Rolas below a dense forest of coconut trees.
Beach Resting
Young resident of Ilhéu das Rolas in a rocky inlet.
Equilibrist coconut trees
Coconut trees balanced in the middle of a volcanic slope.
Ponta da Cabra
Coconut trees crown Ponta da Cabra, in the south of Ilhéu das Rolas.
ephemeral beach
Sandy coastline in the southeast of Ilhéu das Rolas.
The southernmost point of São Tomé and Príncipe, Ilhéu das Rolas is lush and volcanic. The big news and point of interest of this island extension of the second smallest African nation is the coincidence of crossing the Equator.

A Pestana Resort employee welcomes passengers.

We followed in its wake, down a stairway, under a hillside jungle from which a coconut tree with no coconuts stood out, and a nearby palm tree, which seemed to us to be one of those that give rise to palm oil.

Dark rocks of solidified lava served as a base for the ensemble and as a landing place for a prolific colony of crabs too curious to resist a peek.

 

A sea as green as vegetation caressed the magma. Up and down the gravel that was made of sand there, to the stern of two traditional canoes, each dug in its own trunk.

At the bottom of the stairs, we climb aboard an unobstructed rowboat and, with the sky darkening before our eyes, moments later, the host and boatman pass us to a kind of metallic nutshell.

The destination ferry was out of step with the vessel in which we thought we would relax from the two hours we had spent on the mini-bus, the time of the trip between the capital São Tomé and Ponta da Baleia.

Instead, as soon as we leave the deep bay that also welcomes Vila Malanza and Porto Alegre, the ferry is at the mercy of the Atlantic. For a mere hundred meters, the northern one.

At a certain point, in line with Porto Alegre, we see the eccentric palm trees that delimit the entrance to the homonymous garden, standing out against the sky laden with Gravana.

We could almost swear that these were bamboo arecas, their long, thin trunk is so peculiar, crowned by a tiny canopy in the shape of a feather duster.

The usual quarter of an hour of the crossing is won. The vigorous waves of the almost south Atlantic continue to agitate us, some of them so daring that they melt into the boat.

we distanced ourselves from São Tomé, between bouncing dolphins, however, in the threading of the Ilhéu das Rolas pier.

From the Porto Alegre farm, we can only see the crown of the areca palms and the top of the old mansion that served as its logistical and operational headquarters.

Above, hinted at the sharp point of Pico Cão Grande (663m altitude, 300m from the ground), the phonolite guardian of Ôbo, the jungle that coats the southwest of São Tomé with tropical mystery.

Finally, at about eleven in the morning, we disembarked for the exogenous domain of the Pestana Ecuador resort.

The opening steps in Ilhéu das Rolas confront us with the yellow and blue chapel of São Francisco de Xavier, an unfailing temple, like so many others in the archipelago.

During the XNUMXth century São Tomé and Príncipe was colonized mainly by New Christians who the Inquisition expelled from Portugal, but also by slavers and slaves who ensured the pioneering cultivation of sugarcane in the archipelago.

Over time, Brazilian sugar, much more abundant and of better quality, made São Tomé sugar unnecessary.

Simultaneously, in the image of Old Town on the island of Santiago de Cape Verde, Sao Tome and Príncipe it became a slave supply platform for Brazil.

Every afternoon, dozens of descendants of forced laborers brought in from the coasts of Africa.

Or, later, migrated from Cape Verde, play lively football matches in front of the temple, in the vicinity of the island's pillory and the restored colonial mansion that has it in a small garden.

Even walled, the chapel's sandy atrium fails to sustain a few misdirected or ricocheting balls. Retrieving them comes with the reward of a dip in the emerald sea below.

Let's also hook up with some. Not so brief, yet, rushed by the urge to unravel the real island beyond the hotel.

Once upon a time, Ilhéu das Rolas welcomed more than 600 people from São Tomé, supported by the local school, a series of small businesses, some arable land and easy and guaranteed fishing.

From 2004, however, Pestana Ecuador occupied the north of the islet.

It is true that it employed some of the residents.

But it will also be that it increasingly sought insular exclusivity, through evictions compensated for compensation that the local community classified as meager and malicious.

Today, out of almost 700 São Toméans, one tenth of those who continue to resist the offers of the Pestana Group, the largest investor in São Tomé and Príncipe, generating more than 600 jobs across the country, remain.

Truth be told, resort employees aside, during the discovery walk of Ilhéu das Rolas, we didn't find a single resident.

By helping the party, we managed to misread the map.

In search of the alleged ruins of the old fort, we get lost along unusual paths, with the vegetation around the nearest volcano crater dense and tall.

We became disoriented, in fact, for so long that we were convinced that the term islander would be inappropriate. We came across a herd of pigs, muddy and frightened by our appearance in a land, normally, theirs alone.

We got even more lost, until we decided to plug in the phone data and pay a roaring racket, the price of knowing where we'd gone and how we'd get out.

On the way back to the starting point, we find ourselves on another path, coastal and easy to follow. It followed the sections of the east coast of the island, when we entered it, between the Miradouro do Amor and the rugged, dramatic south of Ponta Cabra.

There, there were deep coves with large cliffs of solidified lava in shades of black and ocher that highlighted the green of the tropical forest.

Different patterns and orientations revealed different lava layers. From the earth and dust accumulated among some, acrobatic coconut trees sprang up, freed from the fierce competition that their counterparts lived on top of the cliffs.

The Atlantic invades these coves with a concentrated fury.

It invests with waves of a bluish-white that roll and thunder large stones of basalt polished by millenary friction. Indifferent and busy, specimens of orange-billed strawtails flew over the suddenness of the elements, tireless fishing trips and returning to their nests.

The waves of waves almost completely disappeared the sandy beaches of Escada and Joana beaches, which, under a more favorable weather, shine, as if embedded in the jungle, and are one of the most picturesque and seductive of São Tomé and Príncipe.

Accordingly, we inaugurated the return to the northern tip, passing by the island's lighthouse, erected in 1929.

Without even thinking about it, we had already crossed the Equator, once up, once down.

In this third passage, we go straight to the landmark that marks it, the supreme monument of Ilhéu das Rolas, also known as the Center of the World.

At the turn of the second decade of the XNUMXth century, the geographical and topographical notions of the archipelago were precarious.

They were limited to measurements with the aim of establishing the limits of the gardens that, in tiny islands, at a certain point, came into conflict.

These measurements and surveys lacked a geodetic network and its rigor.

By that time, in addition to being a naval officer, Carlos Viegas Gago Coutinho, was already an aviator, cartographer and a pilot with all the qualifications and anything else to carry the recently delineated geodesic mission of São Tomé, the materialize between 1915 and 1918.

In 1916, Gago Coutinho disembarked in charge of carrying out the geodesic triangulation of São Tomé, in order to make a topographical map of the archipelago at 1/25.000 scale feasible.

His measurements and establishment of twenty-two major marks and nineteen minor landmarks continued into 1917.

Despite the existence of unmistakable references that served as vertex points, such as the Cigar, the Big Dog and the Small Dog, among others, the almost resident cloudiness that surrounded them forced Gago Coutinho and his team to camp in these places for several days.

Eleven, twelve and even fifteen, always soaked in humidity, or drenched by frequent rains, as happened around Pico Cantagalo (848m).

The resulting accounts, these, had to be done until 1919. Two years after his arrival, Gago Coutinho provided the final letter and the Geodesic Mission Report, considered to be the first complete geodesy work in one of the Portuguese colonies.

Of the vertices it reached, the highlight was that of Ilhéu das Rolas, measured from the equator.

With this primordial vertex, Gago Coutinho proved that latitude zero crossed the north of Ilhéu das Rolas instead of passing between the islet and São Tomé, as had been previously supposed.

In 1936, the monument that celebrates the passage of the equator line and the work of Gago Coutinho, with a white armillary sphere based on a graphic and gaudy world map, as we find it, however, surrounded by coconut trees, banana trees, overlooking the North Atlantic and a glimpse of São Tomé.

Well admired the monument and the panorama, we sat down on the small bench, recovering from the hours of walking we took on our legs.

Composed again, we make our photos. Some already expected, with one foot in each of the hemispheres of the EARTH. Others, according to other photographic vertices that come to mind.

About Latitude Zero and Ilhéu das Rolas, every day lasts the same. This one was a long one, with the sunset and the time of all the stings imminent.

We abbreviated the return to the resort's refuge, already in lands of the Northern Hemisphere.

São Tomé and Principe

Cocoa Roças, Corallo and the Chocolate Factory

At the beginning of the century. In the XNUMXth century, São Tomé and Príncipe generated more cocoa than any other territory. Thanks to the dedication of some entrepreneurs, production survives and the two islands taste like the best chocolate.
Príncipe, São Tomé and Principe

Journey to the Noble Retreat of Príncipe Island

150 km of solitude north of the matriarch São Tomé, the island of Príncipe rises from the deep Atlantic against an abrupt and volcanic mountain-covered jungle setting. Long enclosed in its sweeping tropical nature and a contained but moving Luso-colonial past, this small African island still houses more stories to tell than visitors to listen to.
São Tomé, São Tomé and Príncipe

Journey to where São Tomé points the Equator

We go along the road that connects the homonymous capital to the sharp end of the island. When we arrived in Roça Porto Alegre, with the islet of Rolas and Ecuador in front of us, we had lost ourselves time and time again in the historical and tropical drama of São Tomé.
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

Photography of Nha Terra São Nicolau

The voice of the late Cesária Verde crystallized the feeling of Cape Verdeans who were forced to leave their island. who visits São Nicolau or, wherever it may be, admires images that illustrate it well, understands why its people proudly and forever call it their land.
Chã das Caldeiras, Fogo Island Cape Verde

A "French" Clan at the Mercy of Fire

In 1870, a Count born in Grenoble on his way to Brazilian exile, made a stopover in Cape Verde where native beauties tied him to the island of Fogo. Two of his children settled in the middle of the volcano's crater and continued to raise offspring there. Not even the destruction caused by the recent eruptions deters the prolific Montrond from the “county” they founded in Chã das Caldeiras.    
Cidade Velha, Cape Verde

Cidade Velha: the Ancient of the Tropico-Colonial Cities

It was the first settlement founded by Europeans below the Tropic of Cancer. In crucial times for Portuguese expansion to Africa and South America and for the slave trade that accompanied it, Cidade Velha became a poignant but unavoidable legacy of Cape Verdean origins.

island of salt, Cape Verde

The Salt of the Island of Sal

At the approach of the XNUMXth century, Sal remained lacking in drinking water and practically uninhabited. Until the extraction and export of the abundant salt there encouraged a progressive population. Today, salt and salt pans add another flavor to the most visited island in Cape Verde.
Boa Vista Island, Cape Verde

Boa Vista Island: Atlantic waves, Dunas do Sara

Boa Vista is not only the Cape Verdean island closest to the African coast and its vast desert. After a few hours of discovery, it convinces us that it is a piece of the Sahara adrift in the North Atlantic.
Santa Maria, Sal Island, Cape Verde

Santa Maria and the Atlantic Blessing of Sal

Santa Maria was founded in the first half of the XNUMXth century, as a salt export warehouse. Today, thanks to the providence of Santa Maria, Sal Ilha is worth much more than the raw material.
Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Up and Down the Estrada da Corda

Santo Antão is the westernmost of the Cape Verde Islands. There lies an Atlantic and rugged threshold of Africa, a majestic insular domain that we begin by unraveling from one end to the other of its dazzling Estrada da Corda.
Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Around the Fogo Island

Time and the laws of geomorphology dictated that the volcano-island of Fogo rounded off like no other in Cape Verde. Discovering this exuberant Macaronesian archipelago, we circled around it against the clock. We are dazzled in the same direction.
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

São Nicolau: Pilgrimage to Terra di Sodade

Forced matches like those that inspired the famous morna “soda” made the pain of having to leave the islands of Cape Verde very strong. Discovering saninclau, between enchantment and wonder, we pursue the genesis of song and melancholy.
São Tomé, São Tomé and Principe

Through the Tropical Top of São Tomé

With the homonymous capital behind us, we set out to discover the reality of the Agostinho Neto farm. From there, we take the island's coastal road. When the asphalt finally yields to the jungle, São Tomé had confirmed itself at the top of the most dazzling African islands.
Sao Tome (city), São Tomé and Principe

The Capital of the Santomean Tropics

Founded by the Portuguese, in 1485, São Tomé prospered for centuries, like the city because of the goods in and out of the homonymous island. The archipelago's independence confirmed it as the busy capital that we trod, always sweating.
Saudade, São Tomé, São Tomé and Principe

Almada Negreiros: From Saudade to Eternity

Almada Negreiros was born in April 1893, on a farm in the interior of São Tomé. Upon discovering his origins, we believe that the luxuriant exuberance in which he began to grow oxygenated his fruitful creativity.
Addiction São Tomé, São Tomé and Principe

From Roça to Roça, Towards the Tropical Heart of São Tomé

On the way between Trindade and Santa Clara, we come across the terrifying colonial past of Batepá. Passing through the Bombaim and Monte Café roças, the island's history seems to have been diluted in time and in the chlorophyll atmosphere of the Santomean jungle.
Roca Sundy, Príncipe Island, São Tomé and Principe

The Certainty of Relativity

In 1919, Arthur Eddington, a British astrophysicist, chose the Roça Sundy to prove Albert Einstein's famous theory. More than a century later, the island of Príncipe that welcomed him is still among the most stunning places in the Universe.
Residents walk along the trail that runs through plantations above the UP4
City
Gurué, Mozambique, Part 1

Through the Mozambican Lands of Tea

The Portuguese founded Gurué in the 1930th century and, from XNUMX onwards, flooded it with camellia sinensis the foothills of the Namuli Mountains. Later, they renamed it Vila Junqueiro, in honor of its main promoter. With the independence of Mozambique and the civil war, the town regressed. It continues to stand out for the lush green imposing mountains and teak landscapes.
Skipper of one of the bangkas at Raymen Beach Resort during a break from sailing
Beach
Islands Guimaras  e  Ave Maria, Philippines

Towards Ave Maria Island, in a Philippines full of Grace

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hippopotami, chobe national park, botswana
safari
Chobe NP, Botswana

Chobe: A River on the Border of Life with Death

Chobe marks the divide between Botswana and three of its neighboring countries, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. But its capricious bed has a far more crucial function than this political delimitation.
Braga or Braka or Brakra in Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 6th – Braga, Nepal

The Ancient Nepal of Braga

Four days of walking later, we slept at 3.519 meters from Braga (Braka). Upon arrival, only the name is familiar to us. Faced with the mystical charm of the town, arranged around one of the oldest and most revered Buddhist monasteries on the Annapurna circuit, we continued our journey there. acclimatization with ascent to Ice Lake (4620m).
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Architecture & Design
Xilitla, San Luis Potosí, Mexico

Edward James' Mexican Delirium

In the rainforest of Xilitla, the restless mind of poet Edward James has twinned an eccentric home garden. Today, Xilitla is lauded as an Eden of the Surreal.
Salto Angel, Rio that falls from the sky, Angel Falls, PN Canaima, Venezuela
Aventura
PN Canaima, Venezuela

Kerepakupai, Salto Angel: The River that Falls from Heaven

In 1937, Jimmy Angel landed a light aircraft on a plateau lost in the Venezuelan jungle. The American adventurer did not find gold but he conquered the baptism of the longest waterfall on the face of the Earth
shadow of success
Ceremonies and Festivities
Champoton, Mexico

Rodeo Under Sombreros

Champoton, in Campeche, hosts a fair honored by the Virgén de La Concepción. O rodeo Mexican under local sombreros reveals the elegance and skill of the region's cowboys.
on Stage, Antigua, Guatemala
Cities
four days in Antigua, Guatemala

Hispanic Guatemala, the Antigua Fashion

In 1743, several earthquakes razed one of the most charming pioneer colonial cities in the Americas. Antigua has regenerated but preserves the religiosity and drama of its epic-tragic past.
Lunch time
World Food

Gastronomy Without Borders or Prejudice

Each people, their recipes and delicacies. In certain cases, the same ones that delight entire nations repel many others. For those who travel the world, the most important ingredient is a very open mind.
Casa Menezes Braganca, Chandor, Goa, India
Culture
Chandor, Goa, India

A True Goan-Portuguese House

A mansion with Portuguese architectural influence, Casa Menezes Bragança, stands out from the houses of Chandor, in Goa. It forms a legacy of one of the most powerful families in the former province. Both from its rise in a strategic alliance with the Portuguese administration and from the later Goan nationalism.
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Sport
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
Traveling
Annapurna Circuit: 5th - Ngawal a BragaNepal

Towards the Nepalese Braga

We spent another morning of glorious weather discovering Ngawal. There is a short journey towards Manang, the main town on the way to the zenith of the Annapurna circuit. We stayed for Braga (Braka). The hamlet would soon prove to be one of its most unforgettable places.
Jean Marie Tjibaou Cultural Center, New Caledonia, Greater Calhau, South Pacific
Ethnic
Grande Terre, New Caledonia

South Pacific Great Boulder

James Cook thus named distant New Caledonia because it reminded him of his father's Scotland, whereas the French settlers were less romantic. Endowed with one of the largest nickel reserves in the world, they named Le Caillou the mother island of the archipelago. Not even its mining prevents it from being one of the most dazzling patches of Earth in Oceania.
Portfolio, Got2Globe, Best Images, Photography, Images, Cleopatra, Dioscorides, Delos, Greece
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

The Earthly and the Celestial

Campeche, Mexico, Yucatan Peninsula, Can Pech, Pastéis in the air
History
Campeche, Mexico

Campeche Upon Can Pech

As was the case throughout Mexico, the conquerors arrived, saw and won. Can Pech, the Mayan village, had almost 40 inhabitants, palaces, pyramids and an exuberant urban architecture, but in 1540 there were less than 6 natives. Over the ruins, the Spaniards built Campeche, one of the most imposing colonial cities in the Americas.
Victoria, capital, Seychelles islands, Mahé, Capital Life
Islands
Victoria, Mahé, Seychelles

From Francophone “Establishment” to the Creole Capital of Seychelles

The French populated their “Etablissement” with European, African and Indian settlers. Two centuries later, British rivals took over the archipelago and renamed the city in honor of their Queen Victoria. When we visit it, the Seychelles capital remains as multiethnic as it is tiny.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
Winter White
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
silhouette and poem, Cora coralina, Goias Velho, Brazil
Literature
Goiás Velho, Brazil

The Life and Work of a Marginal Writer

Born in Goiás, Ana Lins Bretas spent most of her life far from her castrating family and the city. Returning to its origins, it continued to portray the prejudiced mentality of the Brazilian countryside
Lenticular cloud, Mount Cook, New Zealand.
Nature
Mount cook, New Zealand

The Cloud Piercer Mountain

Aoraki/Mount Cook may fall far short of the world's roof but it is New Zealand's highest and most imposing mountain.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Autumn
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Seljalandsfoss Escape
Natural Parks
Iceland

The Island of Fire, Ice and Waterfalls

Europe's supreme cascade rushes into Iceland. But it's not the only one. On this boreal island, with constant rain or snow and in the midst of battle between volcanoes and glaciers, endless torrents crash.
Registration Square, Silk Road, Samarkand, Uzbekistan
UNESCO World Heritage
Samarkand, Uzbequistan

A Monumental Legacy of the Silk Road

In Samarkand, cotton is the most traded commodity and Ladas and Chevrolets have replaced camels. Today, instead of caravans, Marco Polo would find Uzbekistan's worst drivers.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Characters
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Bay Watch cabin, Miami beach, beach, Florida, United States,
Beaches
Miami beach, USA

The Beach of All Vanities

Few coasts concentrate, at the same time, so much heat and displays of fame, wealth and glory. Located in the extreme southeast of the USA, Miami Beach is accessible via six bridges that connect it to the rest of Florida. It is meager for the number of souls who desire it.
Casario, uptown, Fianarantsoa, ​​Madagascar
Religion
Fianarantsoa, Madagascar

The Malagasy City of Good Education

Fianarantsoa was founded in 1831 by Ranavalona Iª, a queen of the then predominant Merina ethnic group. Ranavalona Iª was seen by European contemporaries as isolationist, tyrant and cruel. The monarch's reputation aside, when we enter it, its old southern capital remains as the academic, intellectual and religious center of Madagascar.
white pass yukon train, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA
On Rails
Skagway, Alaska

A Klondike's Gold Fever Variant

The last great American gold rush is long over. These days, hundreds of cruise ships each summer pour thousands of well-heeled visitors into the shop-lined streets of Skagway.
Reindeer Racing, Kings Cup, Inari, Finland
Society
Inari, Finland

The Wackiest Race on the Top of the World

Finland's Lapps have been competing in the tow of their reindeer for centuries. In the final of the Kings Cup - Porokuninkuusajot - , they face each other at great speed, well above the Arctic Circle and well below zero.
Women with long hair from Huang Luo, Guangxi, China
Daily life
Longsheng, China

Huang Luo: the Chinese Village of the Longest Hairs

In a multi-ethnic region covered with terraced rice paddies, the women of Huang Luo have surrendered to the same hairy obsession. They let the longest hair in the world grow, years on end, to an average length of 170 to 200 cm. Oddly enough, to keep them beautiful and shiny, they only use water and rice.
Lion, Elephants, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe
Wildlife
PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.