Pemba, Mozambique

From Porto Amélia to the Shelter Port of Mozambique


sand happiness
Young girl from Pemba, sprinkled with sand, on Wimbe beach.
Shoots - Defends
Two boys entertain themselves with shots and saves on a still wet sand in Pemba.
low tide
Residents of Paquitequete walk at low tide off the bay of Pemba.
martial stunts
Boys practice stunts on a Pemba seafront.
Machel Machel
Statue of Samora Machel, the first president of Mozambique, in the Pemba Library.
One and a half meter octopus
Casal de Pemba displays an octopus just collected from fishermen in canoes.
vegetable peace
Client sitting on a small improvised terrace on top of a huge baobab tree.
Baobabs or Baobabs
Silhouettes of Pemba baobab trees on the banks of the Mozambique Channel.
Wimbe Football
Young men from Pemba play soccer on the sandy beach of Wimbe.
Mary Help of Christians
A passerby passes in front of the Church of Mary Help of Christians, in the upper town of Pemba.
Mother & Daughters
Mother and daughters from Pernambuco on the beach in Wimbe.
Aqswa Mosque
A resident of the Paquitequete neighborhood walks in front of the Awswa mosque.
Sand Fashion
Kids flour sand to impress photographers passing by on Wimbe beach.
golden fun
Kids flour sand to impress photographers passing by on Wimbe beach.
communal baths
Kids ecstatic for the bathing fun on Wimbe de Pemba beach.
Islamic architecture
Nook with Muslim architecture of the Aqswa mosque in Paquitequete.
Paquitequete. or paquite
The fishing district of Paquite seen from the upper city of Pemba.
back to the coast
Fishermen return from the Mozambique Channel to the outskirts of Paquitequete.
Attack Trio
Players from one of the teams about to face off on Paquitequete's naked.
In the Wind of the Channel
Small dhow sails towards the neighborhood of Paquitequete, on the coast of Pemba.
In July 2017, we visited Pemba. Two months later, the first attack took place on Mocímboa da Praia. Nor then do we dare to imagine that the tropical and sunny capital of Cabo Delgado would become the salvation of thousands of Mozambicans fleeing a terrifying jihadism.

We are in the middle of the dry season in Mozambique.

We wake up with another daya radiant. Clouds, just a cumulus caravan and stratocumulus devoid of moisture and whitening the sunny winter of this eastern African.

We walk along Marginal Avenue, through the north of the peninsula where Pemba sprawls.

The road curves under a sharp vertex of the coast, below a reef in the Mozambique Channel which there made the sea shallow and sandy.

We stop at the top of a rocky cliff. At that very moment, a group of fishermen lead their colorful canoes to the beach.

There, another party awaits them, equipped with buckets and bowls, receptacles for the fish and octopuses that the fishermen bring on board.

They are women in head scarves, with folkloric capulanas from the waist down.

There are also some young people in costumes with a little traditional, football team shirts, matching shorts and flip-flops.

That fishing transaction takes place on a daily basis so there is little to discuss. In a flash, buyers put the buckets and bowls on their heads and disappear into the heart of their lives.

Sellers take canoes to anchor on the other side of the bay.

We readjusted our gaze to a beach that the low tide was still discovering and that the sun was golden whenever it fell on it.

There, two boys competed in a match from goal to goal with a Champions final delivery.

Onward, a few small dhows glide over the emerald water, with a course similar to that of canoes.

We went down to the foot of the cliff. We found that, after all, a few buyers remained in its shadow.

A young mother with a sleeping baby on her chest.

And a man at her side who, to our amazement, unfurls an octopus with tentacles from head to toe.

We realized that fishing had not arrived for everyone.

In addition to this couple, three young people chirped, remelted. Intrigued as to where the muzugos, arrest them with shy smiles. They make it clear to us that they expected other fishermen to come ashore.

We returned to the top determined to extend the panoramic privilege. In the meantime, the traffic of pedestrians and boats crossing the shallow waters had increased.

Pemba, Mozambique, Capital of Cabo Delgado, from Porto Amélia to Porto de Abrigo, Paquitequete

Fishermen and boats in the section of Pemba inlet near Paquitequete.

More canoes and tiny dhows converged on the same natural anchorage, organized in front of the first wave of houses and coconut trees in the neighborhood of Paquitequete.

There we proceeded to discover Pemba.

It's Friday. About ten in the morning, the heat gets tight.

Even so, as soon as we reach the naked in the heart of the village we come face to face with three players fully equipped with the colors of their team: yellow jersey, bright purple shorts.

They prepare for a kind of local derby. The photographic time they allow us is short and does not entitle us to discounts.

More players arrive, some from the same team, others rivals, in any case, blessed by the Aqswa mosque that, behind them all, juts out above the houses.

The residents of Paquite, as the neighborhood is treated in order to shorten the hassle of calling it by its full name, are mostly Muslims.

As is the population of Pemba in general, without prejudice to the diocese and Catholic churches in the administrative heart of the capital of Cabo Delgado.

The area of ​​Pemba was already Muslim, counting more than half a millennium at the time of the pioneer passage of Vasco da Gama around these parts, in 1492, it is said that by islands of the Quirimbas archipelago.

She was a Muslim, with a strong Swahili influence and a speaker of the Kimuani dialect that almost half a millennium of Portuguese colonization never made disappear.

After all this time, the mosque of Paquite, Pemba and the people of northern Cabo Delgado find themselves afflicted with a jihadist madness (poorly) disguised as an Islamic faith.

Explanations from experts on African affairs say the problem began after Muslim leaders were radicalized by the teachings of the Salafi current, which is vigorous in Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates and Qatar.

Now, Salafism and its teachings are contrary to Christianity, animism, Western values ​​and even a more balanced Islam.

It worsened after their return, when armed rebels instigated by them, invaded traditional mosques and threatened to kill believers if they did not adhere to the radical ideals they defend.

These insurgents faced resistance from moderate muftis and the general population to accept a Muslim faith and life subjected to Salafism.

At some point in this insurgent process, the Ansar al-Sunna (Supporters of Tradition), a dissident faction, made its way in the region.

It was joined by elements that call themselves ISIS representatives, estimated to be Somalis, Tanzanians, Ugandans, Congolese and others.

As a practical terrorist result, since October 2017, attacks on police stations and other state entities, on indiscriminate churches, villages and towns have been repeated, increasingly destructive and bloodthirsty attacks.

They took place first in the city of Mocímboa da Praia and surrounding villages. Despite occasional and poorly coordinated military responses from the Mozambican police and armed forces, reinforced by others from South African and Russian private companies, the territory controlled by the dissidents has increased.

On March 24, 2021, Palma suffered the most devastating of attacks. This brutal attack caused an as-yet-to-be-determined number of victims, some foreigners. He left decapitated corpses in the streets, to be eaten by animals.

The attack on Palma put a brake on natural gas extraction operations from the offshore Rovuma field. It generated a new influx of refugees who tried to reach Pemba by all means.

At this time, Mozambican authorities closed mosques that they considered radicalized. Others remained open and moderate.

They contributed to the reception of around 700 refugees who continue to flock to Pemba by all means.

On foot, some after walking more than 100km with children and a few belongings on their backs. And disembarking from canoes, dhows and other overcrowded boats on the surrounding beaches.

The churches in the upper town of Pemba are now also covered reception centres, in the heart of improvised tent fields that increase day by day and reinforce the notion that, like the boats, Pemba has also exceeded its limits. .

Which is not surprising considering that, in normal times, the city is home to only 140 Mozambicans.

It is still hard for us to believe – let alone to understand and internalize – the whole atrocious scenario that we learned about from the successive bad news.

In July 2017, when, following Paquite, we ascended to discover the upper city, nothing in Pemba allowed us to imagine its current reality.

Under the dry heat intensified by the almost-sharp sun, we found that section of Pemba, overlooking Paquite, almost deserted, with a more than tranquil, sedative atmosphere.

The Maria Auxiliadora church remained closed, with no sign of the faithful, with a brownish façade outlining the blue sky.

One or another passerby passed in front of the Cathedral of São Paulo, without haste.

The provincial library was given over to the insinuating statue of Machel Machel, Marxist precursor and first president of the independence of Mozambique.

In the Pemba successor of colonial Porto Amélia, still full of Portuguese architectural and administrative legacy, only the sector surrounding Rua Comércio, adjacent to the port from which the goods (and now thousands of refugees) arrived, clashed with the apathy prevailing at the height of the city. .

Today, unlike then, victims of the economic collapse that accompanies the Covid 19 pandemic and the refugee crisis, shop owners say it makes less and less sense to keep them open.

Let's go back to the context why we traveled through the lands of Cabo Delgado, on the eve of the disgrace that would come.

In the afternoon, we walk along the Avenida Marginal in the opposite direction. We had lunch at a Pieter's Place.

Then, we walked along the immediate beach, to and fro, in search of the majestic baobab trees that insinuate themselves into the Mozambique Channel, as if beckoning to our Malagasy neighbors.

At sunset, we arrived at Wimbe beach.

The vast, white sand and the translucent waters of this seductive coastline made it the ultimate bathing resort in Pemba.

Luckily for a community of tourism entrepreneurs and the dissatisfaction of most of the people from Pernambuco who complain that, due to the fame of the beach, the cost of living in the city has become unaffordable.

At that time none of that mattered.

Wimbe was given over to the youthful frenzy that always precedes sunset here.

Teenagers competed in a fierce soccer match with the resident coconut forest as the estimated boundary of the field.

Others, younger, shared a long bathing ecstasy, diving and splashing in the waves that the cove's rounded gentle made.

Two or three of these bathers notice that we walk around with a camera.

"Look here, muzungo, look at us! “Thus, they guarantee our attention. In a flash, they flour and gild themselves with sand, like improvised mossiro masks.

In another, they generate a smiling human pile that almost slips through the lenses inside.

In July 2017, Pemba lived all this happiness and much more.

May God, whether Muslim, Christian or of any other faith, spare you.

NP Gorongosa, Mozambique

The Wild Heart of Mozambique shows Signs of Life

Gorongosa was home to one of the most exuberant ecosystems in Africa, but from 1980 to 1992 it succumbed to the Civil War waged between FRELIMO and RENAMO. Greg Carr, Voice Mail's millionaire inventor received a message from the Mozambican ambassador to the UN challenging him to support Mozambique. For the good of the country and humanity, Carr pledged to resurrect the stunning national park that the Portuguese colonial government had created there.
Enxame Mozambique

Mozambican Fashion Service Area

It is repeated at almost all stops in towns of Mozambique worthy of appearing on maps. The machimbombo (bus) stops and is surrounded by a crowd of eager "businessmen". The products offered can be universal such as water or biscuits or typical of the area. In this region, a few kilometers from Nampula, fruit sales suceeded, in each and every case, quite intense.
Ilha de Mozambique, Mozambique  

The Island of Ali Musa Bin Bique. Pardon... of Mozambique

With the arrival of Vasco da Gama in the extreme south-east of Africa, the Portuguese took over an island that had previously been ruled by an Arab emir, who ended up misrepresenting the name. The emir lost his territory and office. Mozambique - the molded name - remains on the resplendent island where it all began and also baptized the nation that Portuguese colonization ended up forming.
Ibo Island, Mozambique

Island of a Gone Mozambique

It was fortified in 1791 by the Portuguese who expelled the Arabs from the Quirimbas and seized their trade routes. It became the 2nd Portuguese outpost on the east coast of Africa and later the capital of the province of Cabo Delgado, Mozambique. With the end of the slave trade at the turn of the XNUMXth century and the passage from the capital to Porto Amélia, Ibo Island found itself in the fascinating backwater in which it is located.
bazaruto, Mozambique

The Inverted Mirage of Mozambique

Just 30km off the East African coast, an unlikely but imposing erg rises out of the translucent sea. Bazaruto it houses landscapes and people who have lived apart for a long time. Whoever lands on this lush, sandy island soon finds himself in a storm of awe.
Ibo Island a Quirimba IslandMozambique

Ibo to Quirimba with the Tide

For centuries, the natives have traveled in and out of the mangrove between the island of Ibo and Quirimba, in the time that the overwhelming return trip from the Indian Ocean grants them. Discovering the region, intrigued by the eccentricity of the route, we follow its amphibious steps.
Fianarantsoa, Madagascar

The Malagasy City of Good Education

Fianarantsoa was founded in 1831 by Ranavalona Iª, a queen of the then predominant Merina ethnic group. Ranavalona Iª was seen by European contemporaries as isolationist, tyrant and cruel. The monarch's reputation aside, when we enter it, its old southern capital remains as the academic, intellectual and religious center of Madagascar.
Morondava, Avenue of Baobabs, Madagascar

The Malagasy Way to Dazzle

Out of nowhere, a colony of baobab trees 30 meters high and 800 years old flanks a section of the clayey and ocher road parallel to the Mozambique Channel and the fishing coast of Morondava. The natives consider these colossal trees the mothers of their forest. Travelers venerate them as a kind of initiatory corridor.
Fianarantsoa-Manakara, Madagascar

On board the Malagasy TGV

We depart Fianarantsoa at 7a.m. It wasn't until 3am the following morning that we completed the 170km to Manakara. The natives call this almost secular train Train Great Vibrations. During the long journey, we felt, very strongly, those of the heart of Madagascar.
Zanzibar, Tanzania

The African Spice Islands

Vasco da Gama opened the Indian Ocean to the Portuguese empire. In the XNUMXth century, the Zanzibar archipelago became the largest producer of cloves and the available spices diversified, as did the people who disputed them.
Goa island, Ilha de Mozambique, Mozambique

The Island that Illuminates the Island of Mozambique

Located at the entrance to the Mossuril Bay, the small island of Goa is home to a centuries-old lighthouse. Its listed tower signals the first stop of a stunning dhow tour around the old Ilha de Mozambique.

Machangulo, Mozambique

The Golden Peninsula of Machangulo

At a certain point, an ocean inlet divides the long sandy strip full of hyperbolic dunes that delimits Maputo Bay. Machangulo, as the lower section is called, is home to one of the most magnificent coastlines in Mozambique.
savuti, botswana, elephant-eating lions
Safari
Savuti, Botswana

Savuti's Elephant-Eating Lions

A patch of the Kalahari Desert dries up or is irrigated depending on the region's tectonic whims. In Savuti, lions have become used to depending on themselves and prey on the largest animals in the savannah.
Prayer flags in Ghyaru, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 4th – Upper Banana to Ngawal, Nepal

From Nightmare to Dazzle

Unbeknownst to us, we are faced with an ascent that leads us to despair. We pulled our strength as far as possible and reached Ghyaru where we felt closer than ever to the Annapurnas. The rest of the way to Ngawal felt like a kind of extension of the reward.
Visitors in Jameos del Água, Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain
Architecture & Design
Lanzarote, Canary Islands

To César Manrique what is César Manrique's

By itself, Lanzarote would always be a Canaria by itself, but it is almost impossible to explore it without discovering the restless and activist genius of one of its prodigal sons. César Manrique passed away nearly thirty years ago. The prolific work he left shines on the lava of the volcanic island that saw him born.
Totems, Botko Village, Malekula, Vanuatu
Adventure
Malekula, Vanuatu

Meat and Bone Cannibalism

Until the early XNUMXth century, man-eaters still feasted on the Vanuatu archipelago. In the village of Botko we find out why European settlers were so afraid of the island of Malekula.
good buddhist advice
Ceremonies and Festivities
Chiang Mai, Thailand

300 Wats of Spiritual and Cultural Energy

Thais call every Buddhist temple wat and their northern capital has them in obvious abundance. Delivered to successive events held between shrines, Chiang Mai is never quite disconnected.
Fort de San Louis, Fort de France-Martinique, French Antihas
Cities
Fort-de-France, Martinique

Freedom, Bipolarity and Tropicality

The capital of Martinique confirms a fascinating Caribbean extension of French territory. There, the relations between the colonists and the natives descended from slaves still give rise to small revolutions.
Fogón de Lola, great food, Costa Rica, Guápiles
Meal
Fogón de Lola Costa Rica

The Flavor of Costa Rica of El Fogón de Lola

As the name suggests, the Fogón de Lola de Guapiles serves dishes prepared on the stove and in the oven, according to Costa Rican family tradition. In particular, Tia Lola's.
full cabin
Culture
Saariselka, Finland

The Delightful Arctic Heat

It is said that the Finns created SMS so they don't have to talk. The imagination of cold Nordics is lost in the mist of their beloved saunas, real physical and social therapy sessions.
combat arbiter, cockfighting, philippines
Sport
Philippines

When Only Cock Fights Wake Up the Philippines

Banned in much of the First World, cockfighting thrives in the Philippines where they move millions of people and pesos. Despite its eternal problems, it is the sabong that most stimulates the nation.
Twelve Apostles, Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Australia
Traveling
Great Ocean Road, Australia

Ocean Out, along the Great Australian South

One of the favorite escapes of the Australian state of Victoria, via B100 unveils a sublime coastline that the ocean has shaped. We only needed a few kilometers to understand why it was named The Great Ocean Road.
shadow of success
Ethnic
Champoton, Mexico

Rodeo Under Sombreros

Champoton, in Campeche, hosts a fair honored by the Virgén de La Concepción. O rodeo Mexican under local sombreros reveals the elegance and skill of the region's cowboys.
portfolio, Got2Globe, Travel photography, images, best photographs, travel photos, world, Earth
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Portfolio Got2globe

The Best in the World – Got2Globe Portfolio

History
Military

Defenders of Their Homelands

Even in times of peace, we detect military personnel everywhere. On duty, in cities, they fulfill routine missions that require rigor and patience.
Graciosa, Azores, Monte da Ajuda
Islands
Graciosa, Azores

Her Grace the Graciosa

Finally, we will disembark in Graciosa, our ninth island in the Azores. Even if less dramatic and verdant than its neighbors, Graciosa preserves an Atlantic charm that is its own. Those who have the privilege of living it, take from this island of the central group an esteem that remains forever.
Reindeer Racing, Kings Cup, Inari, Finland
Winter White
Inari, Finland

The Wackiest Race on the Top of the World

Finland's Lapps have been competing in the tow of their reindeer for centuries. In the final of the Kings Cup - Porokuninkuusajot - , they face each other at great speed, well above the Arctic Circle and well below zero.
Kukenam reward
Literature
Mount Roraima, Venezuela

Time Travel to the Lost World of Mount Roraima

At the top of Mount Roraima, there are extraterrestrial scenarios that have resisted millions of years of erosion. Conan Doyle created, in "The Lost World", a fiction inspired by the place but never got to step on it.
Camiguin, Philippines, Katungan mangrove.
Nature
Camiguin, Philippines

An Island of Fire Surrended to Water

With more than twenty cones above 100 meters, the abrupt and lush, Camiguin has the highest concentration of volcanoes of any other of the 7641 islands in the Philippines or on the planet. But, in recent times, not even the fact that one of these volcanoes is active has disturbed the peace of its rural, fishing and, to the delight of outsiders, heavily bathed life.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Autumn
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Walvis Bay, Namibia, bay, dunes
Natural Parks
Walvis Bay, Namíbia

The Outstanding Shoreline of Walvis Bay

From Namibia's largest coastal city to the edge of the Namib Desert of Sandwich Harbour, there is an unrivaled domain of ocean, dunes, fog and wildlife. Since 1790, the fruitful Walvis Bay has been its gateway.
Willemstad, Curacao, Punda, Handelskade
UNESCO World Heritage
Willemstad, Curaçao

The Multicultural Heart of Curaçao

A Dutch colony in the Caribbean became a major slave hub. It welcomed Sephardic Jews who had taken refuge from the Iberia Inquisition in Amsterdam and Recife. And it assimilated influences from the Portuguese and Spanish villages with which it traded. At the heart of this secular cultural fusion has always been its old capital: Willemstad.
aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Characters
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
Surf Lesson, Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii
Beaches
Waikiki, OahuHawaii

The Japanese Invasion of Hawaii

Decades after the attack on Pearl Harbor and from the capitulation in World War II, the Japanese returned to Hawaii armed with millions of dollars. Waikiki, his favorite target, insists on surrendering.
Miyajima Island, Shinto and Buddhism, Japan, Gateway to a Holy Island
Religion
Miyajima, Japan

Shintoism and Buddhism with the Tide

Visitors to the Tori of Itsukushima admire one of the three most revered scenery in Japan. On the island of Miyajima, Japanese religiosity blends with Nature and is renewed with the flow of the Seto Inland Sea.
Flam Railway composition below a waterfall, Norway.
On Rails
Nesbyen to Flam, Norway

Flam Railway: Sublime Norway from the First to the Last Station

By road and aboard the Flam Railway, on one of the steepest railway routes in the world, we reach Flam and the entrance to the Sognefjord, the largest, deepest and most revered of the Scandinavian fjords. From the starting point to the last station, this monumental Norway that we have unveiled is confirmed.
4th of July Fireworks-Seward, Alaska, United States
Society
Seward, Alaska

The Longest 4th of July

The independence of the United States is celebrated, in Seward, Alaska, in a modest way. Even so, the 4th of July and its celebration seem to have no end.
Busy intersection of Tokyo, Japan
Daily life
Tokyo, Japan

The Endless Night of the Rising Sun Capital

Say that Tokyo do not sleep is an understatement. In one of the largest and most sophisticated cities on the face of the Earth, twilight marks only the renewal of the frenetic daily life. And there are millions of souls that either find no place in the sun, or make more sense in the “dark” and obscure turns that follow.
Cliffs above the Valley of Desolation, near Graaf Reinet, South Africa
Wildlife
Graaf-Reinet, South Africa

A Boer Spear in South Africa

In early colonial times, Dutch explorers and settlers were terrified of the Karoo, a region of great heat, great cold, great floods and severe droughts. Until the Dutch East India Company founded Graaf-Reinet there. Since then, the fourth oldest city in the rainbow nation it thrived at a fascinating crossroads in its history.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.