religious tiredness
A believer sleeps in front of the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe after a long pilgrimage.
A Chiapasian sub-ethnic chamula believer holds a torch during his pilgrimage stretch.
Illuminated Scoreboards
Técnico installs a religious placard with former Pope John Paul II.
In the Company of Guadeloupe
Group of young pilgrims poses around a statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe
group prayer
Faithful pray to Our Lady of Guadalupe in the homonymous church in Campeche.
roads of faith
Vehicles followed by pilgrim runners travel the roads of Mexico.
Belief Lights
Facade of the church of Nª Senhora de Guadalupe, illuminated to receive pilgrims and decorated with religious panels on which the faithful photograph themselves
Devotion of all ages
Ladies and a baby follow events around the church of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
Young believer repairs a hole that affected his pilgrimage.
multiplied patron
Statues of Our Lady of Guadalupe brought by believers, gathered in front of the church built in her honor.
Passengers of Faith
Chamula Indians follow aboard a truck decorated with Catholic motifs in honor of the Virgin of Guadalupe.
Catholic animation
Campeche, lit up to welcome the pilgrims who traveled to her in the name of the Patron of the Americas.
Deserved rest
A group of faithful rest under a tree near the church of Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe.
belief cycle
Detail of the religious decoration that pilgrims attribute to their bicycles during the journey to the church of Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe in Campeche.
A banner with the apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe decorates the box of a van that transports pilgrims.
Mission Accomplished
Young pilgrims flock to the bicycles on which they traveled from their villages to Campeche, a colonial city located on the north coast of the Mexican state of the same name.
The Catholic equivalent of Our Lady of Fátima, Our Lady of Guadalupe moves and moves Mexico. Its faithful cross the country's roads, determined to bring the proof of their faith to the patroness of the Americas.

There is still smoke around San Cristóbal de las Casas when we prepare to leave the city towards Palenque.

For two days, the region was the scene of a rekindling of the aversion that the local Mayan and mestizo population has for evangelical Christian churches and their converts, which they see as threats to cultural and religious uniformity because they are governed.

The native Mayans expelled a community they had previously banished from land near the city. The conciliatory intervention of the police degenerated once more into violence, but everything indicated that the intransigent Chamulas were once again taking theirs to the fore.

At first reluctant to accept the teachings of Hispanic missionaries, the Maya from this area of ​​Chiapas ended up welcoming them, but only in part. They generated independent Catholic cults to which they added elements of their pre-Columbian mythology.

decoration, truck, pilgrims, our lady, virgin, guadalupe, mexico

A banner with the apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe decorates the box of a van that transports pilgrims.

The San Juan Chamula community went further.

It got the government to grant administrative autonomy. Likewise, despite the Mexican Catholic Church being one of the most conservative in Latin America, no priest interferes with the indigenous faith or participates in ceremonies held in the village's enigmatic temple, which prohibits visitors from capturing images.

Edgardo Coello, a mestizo Mexican of probable Galician origin, knows the whims of the Chamulas better than the secondary roads in the region.

Even so, using irreproachable calm and courtesy, the residents are informed about the best way to avoid police barriers, to take us through alternative routes to the then besieged San Juan. And from there, descend to the lowlands of Chiapas.

Visions of Our Lady of Guadalupe, on the Way to Palenque

The mountain route we are on is the most winding since we have been traveling through Mexico for several days.

Edgardo travels it at cruising speed. For many kilometers, we hardly see a soul. An hour later, the first indigenous settlements appear at the foot of the mountain.

We catch a glimpse of Our Lady of Guadalupe on top of a van box. Decorated with rags and balloons, full of passengers dressed in the colors of the nation, the carripana moves slowly, leaning against the narrow berm.

She is chased by a young believer wearing the same costumes allusive to the Blessed Sacrament worn by the rest of the group. This young believer holds a lit torch.

believer, chamula, pilgrim, torch, our lady, virgin, guadalupe, mexico

A Chiapasian sub-ethnic chamula believer holds a torch during his pilgrimage stretch.

The original vision of Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe had it, in 1531, on a hill on the outskirts of Cidade do Mexico. Since then, Our Lady of Guadalupe has become a crucial link between indigenous and Catholic spirituality, which is promoted by the missionaries.

As the nation mixed, it was also promoted to its strongest Catholic symbol, the Patron of Mexico and the Americas.

Along the way, we passed many more of these self-religious processions. Almost all forced the cars behind to risky overtaking.

Edgardo had just alerted us to the road drama that time of year represented, despite the government never deigning to present numbers. We didn't take long to see it.

A jeep avoided pilgrims around a bend when it was surprised by a vehicle in the opposite direction. The accident caused serious physical and material damage.

Palenque, Towards Campeche, always on the Way of the Virgin of Guadalupe

However, night had fallen. During the descent through the Lacandona jungle – the same one that sheltered the Zapatista rebels – we only found a few participants late or resting by the side of the road, with little or no sign of traffic.

Dawn offers us a new pleasant day. When we reach the entrance to the Mayan temples in Palenque, officials still open the doors to the complex.

Even so, dozens of cars, vans and carripans decorated with paintings and motifs of the Virgin are already parked in the adjacent park. As soon as they enter the complex, its groups of passengers share the ecstasy of that rare spiritual escape, climb the temple steps and exchange joke after joke.

vehicles, pilgrims, runners, faithful, Our Lady, Virgin, Guadalupe, Mexico

Vehicles followed by pilgrim runners travel the roads of Mexico.

The good mood also seems to subsist on the lack of breath and the fascination caused by the opposite historical monuments and the surrounding high forest.

From Palenque, we go back on the map. We were encouraged by the prospect of refreshing ourselves in the Águas Azules de Chiapas, a stretch of the Tulijá river with waterfalls and natural emerald dams that had also attracted countless believers.

Once again the Chamulas, now in Pilgrim Version

We came across several of their trucks. One of them catches Edgardo's attention: “See those fuzzy white outfits? It's the Chamulas!” In a kind of instant judgment, we concluded that the image was too impressive to let go. We asked the guide to reverse the path, overtake them and leave us well positioned.

We got out of the car at a stand and got ready. Edgardo, take the opportunity to buy bananas.

When the truck comes up on the way up, the guide stretches out to offer the fruit to San Juan pilgrims. We press the camera buttons and record the highlighted delegation's courier and the rest of the action in hi-speed.

Animation reigns on board the van box. Indigenous people seem to enjoy even that shameless wait. What surprises us. All of a sudden, one of them, more rigorous, restores the order of things to things and shouts at us: “If we catch you, you'll pay well for those photos!”.

pilgrims, indigenous people, chamula, our lady, virgin, guadalupe, mexico

Chamula Indians follow aboard a truck decorated with Catholic motifs in honor of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

The Blessed Entry into Campeche

Already in the flat lands of Yucatan Peninsula, the cyclist version of the pilgrimage intensifies, this time towards Campeche. It's the city we arrived at in full twilight.

We go to the hotel against the clock. We left for the esplanades of the Portal de San Francisco where we devoured four of the horchatas most delicious in Mexico.

Finally, the Welcome to the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe

With our energies restored, we soon found the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. This yellow temple in Campeche had been welcoming pilgrims for some time.

Church, facade, illuminated, faithful believers, pilgrims, Our Lady, Virgin, Guadeloupe, Mexico

Facade of the church of Nª Senhora de Guadalupe, illuminated to receive pilgrims and decorated with religious panels on which the faithful photograph themselves

From the top of the sanctuary and in all directions, ropes are projected with fluttering pennants, green, red and white.

Hundreds of bicycles with banners, mini-shrines and other artefacts were leaning against the nave's south façade and each other.

prayer, faithful, church, our lady, virgin, guadalupe, mexico

Faithful pray to Our Lady of Guadalupe in the homonymous church in Campeche.

Most of the faithful retain a lasting energy and socialize. Despite playing gospel music loudly and the powerful lights from the food, drinks and food stalls souvenirs shop religious, some others who arrived slumped, are dozing on the grass around them.

On the opposite side, facing an imminent Gulf of Mexico, two competing businesses vie for the faith and wallet of believers.

Both installed colorful backdrops on luminous panels that reconstitute the apparition of the Morena Virgin. Both seek to attract families and groups of believers to photograph themselves in the company of the saint. “Two hundred pesos, friends. It's a real blessing!” promotes one of the entrepreneurs.

papa joão paulo II, decoration, statue, faithful, our lady, virgin, guadalupe, mexico

Técnico installs a religious placard with former Pope John Paul II.

The priest on duty takes care of the official procedure. Every time a new group of cyclist or pedestrian pilgrims arrives at the door of the church, he sprinkles them with holy water and welcomes them into the flock.

He still takes time to move to the roadside from where, in a modality, at one of the intervals of the rite. drive through, sprinkles the hoods to dozens of cars tuning of the city and grants the grace to its owners.

The day is drawing to a close. Believers from far away lose their momentum.

We are back at the hotel suffering from this same weakness when we enter a square organized around a bandstand. There, hundreds of cyclist pilgrims improvised a shared hostel.

hole, bicycle, repair, young pilgrim, Our Lady, Virgin, Guadeloupe, Mexico

Young believer repairs a hole that affected his pilgrimage.

Many are already asleep. Others share meals, mend tires or set up small tents supported by trees or on the handlebars of bicycles.

All had completed one more test of faith.

church, campeche, believers, pilgrims, our lady, virgin, guadalupe, mexico

A believer sleeps in front of the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe after a long pilgrimage.

Izamal, Mexico

The Holy, Yellow and Beautiful Mexican City

Until the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, Izamal was a center of worship for the supreme Mayan god Itzamná and Kinich Kakmó, the one of the sun. Gradually, the invaders razed the various pyramids of the natives. In its place, they built a large Franciscan convent and a prolific colonial houses, with the same solar tone in which the now Catholic city shines.
Campeche, Mexico

Campeche Upon Can Pech

As was the case throughout Mexico, the conquerors arrived, saw and won. Can Pech, the Mayan village, had almost 40 inhabitants, palaces, pyramids and an exuberant urban architecture, but in 1540 there were less than 6 natives. Over the ruins, the Spaniards built Campeche, one of the most imposing colonial cities in the Americas.
Guwahati, India

The City that Worships Kamakhya and the Fertility

Guwahati is the largest city in the state of Assam and in North East India. It is also one of the fastest growing in the world. For Hindus and devout believers in Tantra, it will be no coincidence that Kamakhya, the mother goddess of creation, is worshiped there.
Tulum, Mexico

The Most Caribbean of the Mayan Ruins

Built by the sea as an exceptional outpost decisive for the prosperity of the Mayan nation, Tulum was one of its last cities to succumb to Hispanic occupation. At the end of the XNUMXth century, its inhabitants abandoned it to time and to an impeccable coastline of the Yucatan peninsula.
Cobá to Pac Chen, Mexico

From the Ruins to the Mayan Homes

On the Yucatan Peninsula, the history of the second largest indigenous Mexican people is intertwined with their daily lives and merges with modernity. In Cobá, we went from the top of one of its ancient pyramids to the heart of a village of our times.
San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico

The Home Sweet Home of Mexican Social Conscience

Mayan, mestizo and Hispanic, Zapatista and tourist, country and cosmopolitan, San Cristobal has no hands to measure. In it, Mexican and expatriate backpacker visitors and political activists share a common ideological demand.
Campeche, Mexico

A Bingo so playful that you play with puppets

On Friday nights, a group of ladies occupy tables at Independencia Park and bet on trifles. The tiniest prizes come out to them in combinations of cats, hearts, comets, maracas and other icons.

Mexico City, Mexico

mexican soul

With more than 20 million inhabitants in a vast metropolitan area, this megalopolis marks, from its heart of zócalo, the spiritual pulse of a nation that has always been vulnerable and dramatic.

Champoton, Mexico

Rodeo Under Sombreros

Champoton, in Campeche, hosts a fair honored by the Virgén de La Concepción. O rodeo Mexican under local sombreros reveals the elegance and skill of the region's cowboys.

Man: an Ever Tested Species

It's in our genes. For the pleasure of participating, for titles, honor or money, competitions give meaning to the world. Some are more eccentric than others.
Helsinki, Finland

The Pagan Passover of Seurasaari

In Helsinki, Holy Saturday is also celebrated in a Gentile way. Hundreds of families gather on an offshore island, around lit fires to chase away evil spirits, witches and trolls
Lhasa, Tibet

Sera, the Monastery of the Sacred Debate

In few places in the world a dialect is used as vehemently as in the monastery of Sera. There, hundreds of monks, in Tibetan, engage in intense and raucous debates about the teachings of the Buddha.
Mérida, Mexico

The Most Exuberant of Meridas

In 25 BC, the Romans founded Emerita Augusta, capital of Lusitania. The Spanish expansion generated three other Méridas in the world. Of the four, the Yucatan capital is the most colorful and lively, resplendent with Hispanic colonial heritage and multi-ethnic life.
Campeche, Mexico

200 Years of Playing with Luck

At the end of the XNUMXth century, the peasants surrendered to a game introduced to cool the fever of cash cards. Today, played almost only for Abuelites, lottery little more than a fun place.
Yucatan, Mexico

The End of the End of the World

The announced day passed but the End of the World insisted on not arriving. In Central America, today's Mayans watched and put up with incredulity all the hysteria surrounding their calendar.
Yucatan, Mexico

The Sidereal Murphy's Law That Doomed the Dinosaurs

Scientists studying the crater caused by a meteorite impact 66 million years ago have come to a sweeping conclusion: it happened exactly over a section of the 13% of the Earth's surface susceptible to such devastation. It is a threshold zone on the Mexican Yucatan peninsula that a whim of the evolution of species allowed us to visit.
Uxmal, Yucatan, Mexico

The Mayan Capital That Piled It Up To Collapse

The term Uxmal means built three times. In the long pre-Hispanic era of dispute in the Mayan world, the city had its heyday, corresponding to the top of the Pyramid of the Diviner at its heart. It will have been abandoned before the Spanish Conquest of the Yucatan. Its ruins are among the most intact on the Yucatan Peninsula.
Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon), Chihuahua, Mexico

The Deep Mexico of the Barrancas del Cobre

Without warning, the Chihuahua highlands give way to endless ravines. Sixty million geological years have furrowed them and made them inhospitable. The Rarámuri indigenous people continue to call them home.
Creel to Los Mochis, Mexico

The Barrancas del Cobre & the CHEPE Iron Horse

The Sierra Madre Occidental's relief turned the dream into a construction nightmare that lasted six decades. In 1961, at last, the prodigious Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad was opened. Its 643km cross some of the most dramatic scenery in Mexico.
chihuahua, Mexico

¡Ay Chihuahua !

Mexicans have adapted this expression as one of their favorite manifestations of surprise. While we wander through the capital of the homonymous state of the Northwest, we often exclaim it.
Rhinoceros, PN Kaziranga, Assam, India
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Bertie in jalopy, Napier, New Zealand
Architecture & Design
Napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s

Devastated by an earthquake, Napier was rebuilt in an almost ground-floor Art Deco and lives pretending to stop in the Thirties. Its visitors surrender to the Great Gatsby atmosphere that the city enacts.
Boat Trips

For Those Becoming Internet Sick

Hop on and let yourself go on unmissable boat trips like the Philippine archipelago of Bacuit and the frozen sea of ​​the Finnish Gulf of Bothnia.
Parade and Pomp
Ceremonies and Festivities
Saint Petersburg, Russia

When the Russian Navy Stations in Saint Petersburg

Russia dedicates the last Sunday of July to its naval forces. On that day, a crowd visits large boats moored on the Neva River as alcohol-drenched sailors seize the city.
Rostov Veliky Kremlin, Russia
Rostov Veliky, Russia

Under the Domes of the Russian Soul

It is one of the oldest and most important medieval cities, founded during the still pagan origins of the nation of the tsars. At the end of the XNUMXth century, incorporated into the Grand Duchy of Moscow, it became an imposing center of orthodox religiosity. Today, only the splendor of kremlin Muscovite trumps the citadel of tranquil and picturesque Rostov Veliky.
Fogón de Lola, great food, Costa Rica, Guápiles
Fogón de Lola Costa Rica

The Flavor of Costa Rica of El Fogón de Lola

As the name suggests, the Fogón de Lola de Guapiles serves dishes prepared on the stove and in the oven, according to Costa Rican family tradition. In particular, Tia Lola's.
Islamic silhouettes

Istanbul, Turkey

Where East meets West, Turkey Seeks its Way

An emblematic and grandiose metropolis, Istanbul lives at a crossroads. As Turkey in general, divided between secularism and Islam, tradition and modernity, it still doesn't know which way to go

4th of July Fireworks-Seward, Alaska, United States
Seward, Alaska

The Longest 4th of July

The independence of the United States is celebrated, in Seward, Alaska, in a modest way. Even so, the 4th of July and its celebration seem to have no end.
Erika Mother

The Philippine Road Lords

With the end of World War II, the Filipinos transformed thousands of abandoned American jeeps and created the national transportation system. Today, the exuberant jeepneys are for the curves.
Karanga ethnic musicians join the ruins of Great Zimbabwe, Zimbabwe
Great ZimbabweZimbabwe

Great Zimbabwe, Little Bira Dance

Karanga natives of the KwaNemamwa village display traditional Bira dances to privileged visitors to the ruins of Great Zimbabwe. the most iconic place in Zimbabwe, the one who, after the decree of colonial Rhodesia's independence, inspired the name of the new and problematic nation.  
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

life outside

Uxmal, Yucatan, Mayan capital, the Pyramid of the Diviner
Uxmal, Yucatan, Mexico

The Mayan Capital That Piled It Up To Collapse

The term Uxmal means built three times. In the long pre-Hispanic era of dispute in the Mayan world, the city had its heyday, corresponding to the top of the Pyramid of the Diviner at its heart. It will have been abandoned before the Spanish Conquest of the Yucatan. Its ruins are among the most intact on the Yucatan Peninsula.
Bolshoi Zayatski Orthodox Church, Solovetsky Islands, Russia.
Bolshoi Zayatsky, Russia

Mysterious Russian Babylons

A set of prehistoric spiral labyrinths made of stones decorate Bolshoi Zayatsky Island, part of the Solovetsky archipelago. Devoid of explanations as to when they were erected or what it meant, the inhabitants of these northern reaches of Europe call them vavilons.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
Winter White
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
Couple visiting Mikhaylovskoe, village where writer Alexander Pushkin had a home
Saint Petersburg e Mikhaylovkoe, Russia

The Writer Who Succumbed to His Own Plot

Alexander Pushkin is hailed by many as the greatest Russian poet and the founder of modern Russian literature. But Pushkin also dictated an almost tragicomic epilogue to his prolific life.
Ilhéu do Farol, Porto Santo, Ilhéu de Cima, Porto Santo, facing Ponta do Passo.
Ilhéu de Cima, Porto Santo, Portugal

The First Light of Who Navigates From Above

It is part of the group of six islets around the island of Porto Santo, but it is far from being just one more. Even though it is the eastern threshold of the Madeira archipelago, it is the island closest to Portosantenses. At night, it also makes the fanal that confirms the right course for ships coming from Europe.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Chapada dos Guimarães, Mato Grosso, Brazil, Véu de Noiva waterfall
Natural Parks
Chapada dos Guimarães, Mato Grosso, Brazil

In the Burning Heart of South America

It was only in 1909 that the South American geodesic center was established by Cândido Rondon, a Brazilian marshal. Today, it is located in the city of Cuiabá. It has the stunning but overly combustible scenery of Chapada dos Guimarães nearby.
Chichen Itza, Yucatan, Mayan History, heads of Kukulkan, El Castillo
UNESCO World Heritage
Chichen Itza, Yucatan, Mexico

On the Edge of the Cenote, at the Heart of the Mayan Civilization

Between the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries AD, Chichen Itza stood out as the most important city in the Yucatan Peninsula and the vast Mayan Empire. If the Spanish Conquest precipitated its decline and abandonment, modern history has consecrated its ruins a World Heritage Site and a Wonder of the World.
now from above ladder, sorcerer of new zealand, Christchurch, new zealand
Christchurch, New Zealand

New Zealand's Cursed Wizard

Despite his notoriety in the antipodes, Ian Channell, the New Zealand sorcerer, failed to predict or prevent several earthquakes that struck Christchurch. At the age of 88, after 23 years of contract with the city, he made very controversial statements and ended up fired.
Machangulo, Mozambique, sunset
Machangulo, Mozambique

The Golden Peninsula of Machangulo

At a certain point, an ocean inlet divides the long sandy strip full of hyperbolic dunes that delimits Maputo Bay. Machangulo, as the lower section is called, is home to one of the most magnificent coastlines in Mozambique.
Kongobuji Temple
Mount Koya, Japan

Halfway to Nirvana

According to some doctrines of Buddhism, it takes several lifetimes to attain enlightenment. The shingon branch claims that you can do it in one. From Mount Koya, it can be even easier.
Back in the sun. San Francisco Cable Cars, Life Ups and Downs
On Rails
San Francisco, USA

San Francisco Cable Cars: A Life of Highs and Lows

A macabre wagon accident inspired the San Francisco cable car saga. Today, these relics work as a charm operation in the city of fog, but they also have their risks.
Ditching, Alaska Fashion Life, Talkeetna
Talkeetna, Alaska

Talkeetna's Alaska-Style Life

Once a mere mining outpost, Talkeetna rejuvenated in 1950 to serve Mt. McKinley climbers. The town is by far the most alternative and most captivating town between Anchorage and Fairbanks.
the projectionist
Daily life
Sainte-Luce, Martinique

The Nostalgic Projectionist

From 1954 to 1983, Gérard Pierre screened many of the famous films arriving in Martinique. 30 years after the closing of the room in which he worked, it was still difficult for this nostalgic native to change his reel.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.