North Island, New Zealand

Journey along the Path of Maority

surf time
Young New Zealand surfer contemplates the Pacific Ocean on a beach in the north of Hawke's Bay, in the east of the North Island.
pure intimidation
Maori warrior showgirl stars in a secular warrior ritual.
In a sulphurous fog
Visitors walk in the fog of Craters da Lua, a highly geothermal surface located in Taupo, in the heart of the North Island.
Maneuvers for
Maori woman handles poi balls, created throughout history by tribal women for their enjoyment but also used by men to increase their strength and flexibility.
a maori lake
Lake Rotomahana, located in the vicinity of Mount Tarawera, a volcano responsible for one of New Zealand's most destructive eruptions.
Koru spiral
A sculpture of a koru, a Maori symbol inspired by the new curled leaves of the silver ferns that abound in New Zealand. Symbolize new life and growth.
crimson show
Moment of an ethnic show but something conceptual starring young people Maori.
green and irrigated island
One of the numerous waterfalls in the interior of the North Island formed after rains.
workshop work
Instructor examines the work of a Maori wood crafts apprentice.
Maori memory
Historical photograph of a Maori woman dressed and tattooed according to tradition.
maori duo
Two Maori actors from a themed village on the outskirts of Rotorua. The man, with lighter skin and hair and features, reenacts the native tradition of sticking out his tongue as a sign of defiance.
kiwi force of nature
Autumn setting on the Waikato River, near Taupo, heart of the North Island.
colonial architecture
Section of the historic building of the Rotorua Museum a colonial building detached from the center of Rotorua.
Flagpole with flags confirming the agreement between the Maori people and the European settlers.
New Zealand is one of the countries where the descendants of settlers and natives most respect each other. As we explored its northern island, we became aware of the interethnic maturation of this very old nation. Commonwealth as Maori and Polynesia.

There are three new features that come to Rotorua for the first time, like us:

a widespread and intense sulfurous aroma, the great concentration of native inhabitants and an unexpected profusion of Maori cultural spectacles.

The last two, more than the first, attracted us to the city, but we were still miles from its entrance when the sulfur particles in the atmosphere invaded our nostrils.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Rotorua Museum

Section of the historic building of the Rotorua Museum a colonial building detached from the center of Rotorua.

Mile after mile, we penetrated into New Zealand's most dynamic thermal zone, dotted with geysers, thermal springs and explosive mud puddles.

Meanwhile, the reeking odor took hold of the interior of the car, our clothes, luggage, as well as the streets and the room in which we stayed.

That same roadside shelter set a limit to the idiocy we'd found ourselves in for months, carrying a purchased camping tent in Perth, in the distant western end of oceania.

The tent had already made us suffer a lot to avoid paying fines for being overweight from the airlines. We decided to get rid of it and the Cash Converter we found seemed perfect.

"It gives me the idea that they haven't put it to much use!" shoots Jonas, the young Maori bartender, after the inevitable kia of welcome and with a good mood and a strong glow in his eyes.

As he did so, the clerk continued the conversation frantically.

Under the famous passion Maori by the brazilian korero (chatter), he talked about himself and his family without any ceremony or complexes and questioned us, in an innocent and interested way, about us and ours.

We lost almost 70 dollars in the deal but we profited from the confirmation of the Maori people's friendliness and vivacity, a notion that we had begun to form, in HobartAt Tasmania, in contact with Helena Gill, an immigrant hostess at the back doors of Australia.

And, in other contacts in the vast South Island, where both the general population and the Maori are much smaller than those of the neighboring North.

We only knew the Maori from those first contacts and, like most people who set foot in New Zealand for the first time, from “Piano” by Jane Campion – with Harvey Keitel playing Baines, a retired sailor and ranger who had adapted many of the indigenous customs including the eccentric facial tattoo still used by many Maoris.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Maori Memory

Historical photograph of a Maori woman dressed and tattooed according to tradition.

It was time to find out more.

Rotorua, a Volcanic and Plague Core of New Zealand Maori

Even if in business, nowhere else in the country did the Maoris exhibit their customs and rituals as much as in Rotorua. Faced with the inexistence of a true festival or ethnic event for those days, we settled for one of the shows.

At the entrance to the themed village, warriors armed with batons confronted us with their warlike movements and frightening grimaces, used over time to keep unwanted visitors at bay.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Warrior

Maori warrior showgirl stars in a secular warrior ritual.

Once the threat was over, a village chief greeted the newly appointed visitor representative with a welcoming brush of noses.

The Maori and European Colonization of Aoteraoa, the Islands of New Zealand

Once our presence was validated, we wandered from house to house in the alleged village to admire various customs, arts and crafts, some narrated and explained by their protagonists.

This was followed by a musical and dance show that included the most desired of performances, a haka carried out by men and women.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, show

Moment of an ethnic show but something conceptual starring young people Maori.

Today, less than 40% of Rotorua's nearly 70 inhabitants are Maori, a percentage well above 15% of New Zealand's total.

This is believed to have been the last stop of a diaspora of more than two thousand years aboard large canoes waka that led the Polynesians from Southeast Asia to Fiji, Samoa, Tonga, French Polynesia islands and Cook, Hawaii e Easter Island.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Waitangi canoe

Maori ceremonial canoe at the site of the Treaty of Waitangi, North Island.

In the centuries following their arrival in Aoteraoa – as the Maoris call New Zealand – they forged their own culture, differentiated from the rest of Polynesia by its isolation, temperate rather than tropical climate and befitting nature.

After the landing of James Cook in 1769 – 127 years after the pioneering arrival of Dutchman Abel Tasman - depending on the zones and heights, relations between the Maoris and the Europeans fluctuated between a convenient cordiality and the New Zealand Land Wars.

This particular conflict was unresolved in 1840 by the controversial Treaty of Waitangi.

In it it was established that the settlers recognized the Maoris as the true owners of their domains and properties and that they would enjoy the same rights as the British subjects.

The natives remained in the still rural strongholds of their tribes. But by 1930, work in the field was already scarce. Many indigenous people migrated to cities founded by Europeans.

This confluence led to the abandonment of tribal structures and the Maori assimilation of Western ways of life.

And the Intricate Ethnic Coexistence between Maori and European Descendants

Even if less obvious than in the great cities of Auckland and the capital Wellington, when we drive around Rotorua and Taupo – where we take small steps towards humanity subsumed in the sulfurous mist of the Craters of the Moon.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Rotorua fog

Visitors walk in the fog of Craters da Lua, a highly geothermal surface located in Taupo, in the heart of the North Island.

And for other smaller settlements, we find that the coexistence of Maori and settler descendants is just evolving.

Despite the agreed upon in Waitangi, the settlers had already seized the best lands, with an obvious advantage in the modern life that they imposed on the nation.

This supremacy left the Maoris in social and economic predicaments, starting with the difficulty in accessing higher education and having qualified and well-paid jobs.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Workshops

Instructor examines the work of a Maori wood crafts apprentice.

Accordingly, most native families are concentrated in peripheral neighborhoods with far more precarious living conditions than those of the middle class of British descent or of many Asian and other immigrants.

In far too many cases, they depend on social security checks, are more prone to illness and domestic violence, and make up more than half of the prison population.

Growing Respect for Maori Territories and Rights

But since 1960, the situation continues to improve. In that decade, a court declared colonial land confiscations illegal.

Shortly thereafter, the government returned to the Maori people their sacred places and natural resources.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Waikato River

Autumn setting on the Waikato River, near Taupo, heart of the North Island.

For many Maoris who consider themselves guests of the whites, only then did the long Earth Wars end.

The number of Maori representatives in parliament has increased and the value of Maori culture and the Te Reo dialect – which already appears on road signs, maps, etc. – has increased. etc. – soared with the abrupt increase in foreign visitors to the kiwi islands.

A recent network of kindergartens, schools and universities now ensure Maori language education complemented by a national chain of radio stations and TV channels owned and managed by the Maori themselves who are gaining more and more notoriety.

The World Notoriety of the Maori People, for Their Mighty Rugby

As we were writing this same text, the rugby world championship was taking place in the land of the old English settlers. As is almost always the case, New Zealand was the team that stood out and attracted the most.

It even makes us interrupt its creation to watch the French massacre at the arms of the All Blacks (62-13) in the quarter-finals. Seven of the All Blacks players present in the competition are Maori.

All games in the national team Kiwi start after haka exuberant that the Maoris granted that they were also danced by players pakeha and that even intimidate us.

In fact, a few years ago, when the Maoris decided to introduce a new haka, the entire Pakeha rugby community got involved in the debate, something that helps to exemplify the seriousness of the inter-ethnic commitment we have witnessed day after day across New Zealand, when the Maori identities and pakeha they dissolve under the fusion of genetics.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Surfing time

Young New Zealand surfer contemplates the Pacific Ocean on a beach in the north of Hawke's Bay, in the east of the North Island.

On the way out of some beach showers in Whangarei, we meet Renee Lee. In the middle of the verbiage, the young tattooed surfer asks us the complex question: “Maori...?

I never really know if I'm Maori or pakeha. My father is Maori and my mother is Dutch.

My daughter is blonde… Tell me, what do you think I am?”

Nelson to Wharariki, Abel Tasman NP, New Zealand

The Maori coastline on which Europeans landed

Abel Janszoon Tasman explored more of the newly mapped and mythical "Terra australis" when a mistake soured the contact with natives of an unknown island. The episode inaugurated the colonial history of the New Zealand. Today, both the divine coast on which the episode took place and the surrounding seas evoke the Dutch navigator.
Wanaka, New Zealand

The Antipodes Great Outdoors

If New Zealand is known for its tranquility and intimacy with Nature, Wanaka exceeds any imagination. Located in an idyllic setting between the homonymous lake and the mystic Mount Aspiring, it became a place of worship. Many kiwis aspire to change their lives there.
Banks Peninsula, New Zealand

The Divine Earth Shard of the Banks Peninsula

Seen from the air, the most obvious bulge on the South Island's east coast appears to have imploded again and again. Volcanic but verdant and bucolic, the Banks Peninsula confines in its almost cogwheel geomorphology the essence of the ever enviable New Zealand life.
napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s - Calhambeque Tour

In a city rebuilt in Art Deco and with an atmosphere of the "crazy years" and beyond, the adequate means of transportation are the elegant classic automobiles of that era. In Napier, they are everywhere.
Christchurch, New Zealand

New Zealand's Cursed Wizard

Despite his notoriety in the antipodes, Ian Channell, the New Zealand sorcerer, failed to predict or prevent several earthquakes that struck Christchurch. At the age of 88, after 23 years of contract with the city, he made very controversial statements and ended up fired.
Tongariro, New Zealand

The Volcanoes of All Discords

In the late XNUMXth century, an indigenous chief ceded the PN Tongariro volcanoes to the British crown. Today, a significant part of the Maori people claim their mountains of fire from European settlers.
New Zealand  

When Counting Sheep causes Sleep Loss

20 years ago, New Zealand had 18 sheep per inhabitant. For political and economic reasons, the average was halved. In the antipodes, many breeders are worried about their future.
Mount cook, New Zealand

The Cloud Piercer Mountain

Aoraki/Mount Cook may fall far short of the world's roof but it is New Zealand's highest and most imposing mountain.
Napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s

Devastated by an earthquake, Napier was rebuilt in an almost ground-floor Art Deco and lives pretending to stop in the Thirties. Its visitors surrender to the Great Gatsby atmosphere that the city enacts.
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.
hippopotami, chobe national park, botswana
Chobe NP, Botswana

Chobe: A River on the Border of Life with Death

Chobe marks the divide between Botswana and three of its neighboring countries, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. But its capricious bed has a far more crucial function than this political delimitation.
Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Yaks
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit 11th: yak karkha a Thorong Phedi, Nepal

Arrival to the Foot of the Canyon

In just over 6km, we climbed from 4018m to 4450m, at the base of Thorong La canyon. Along the way, we questioned if what we felt were the first problems of Altitude Evil. It was never more than a false alarm.
Alaskan Lumberjack Show Competition, Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
Architecture & Design
Ketchikan, Alaska

Here begins Alaska

The reality goes unnoticed in most of the world, but there are two Alaskas. In urban terms, the state is inaugurated in the south of its hidden frying pan handle, a strip of land separated from the contiguous USA along the west coast of Canada. Ketchikan, is the southernmost of Alaskan cities, its Rain Capital and the Salmon Capital of the World.
Salto Angel, Rio that falls from the sky, Angel Falls, PN Canaima, Venezuela
PN Canaima, Venezuela

Kerepakupai, Salto Angel: The River that Falls from Heaven

In 1937, Jimmy Angel landed a light aircraft on a plateau lost in the Venezuelan jungle. The American adventurer did not find gold but he conquered the baptism of the longest waterfall on the face of the Earth
Tiredness in shades of green
Ceremonies and Festivities
Suzdal, Russia

The Suzdal Cucumber Celebrations

With summer and warm weather, the Russian city of Suzdal relaxes from its ancient religious orthodoxy. The old town is also famous for having the best cucumbers in the nation. When July arrives, it turns the newly harvested into a real festival.
Totem, Sitka, Alaska Travel Once Russia
sitka, Alaska

Sitka: Journey through a once Russian Alaska

In 1867, Tsar Alexander II had to sell Russian Alaska to the United States. In the small town of Sitka, we find the Russian legacy but also the Tlingit natives who fought them.
young saleswoman, nation, bread, uzbekistan
Fergana Valley, Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan, The Nation That Does Not Lack Bread

Few countries employ cereals like Uzbekistan. In this republic of Central Asia, bread plays a vital and social role. The Uzbeks produce it and consume it with devotion and in abundance.
Sun and coconut trees, São Nicolau, Cape Verde
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

São Nicolau: Pilgrimage to Terra di Sodade

Forced matches like those that inspired the famous morna “soda” made the pain of having to leave the islands of Cape Verde very strong. Discovering saninclau, between enchantment and wonder, we pursue the genesis of song and melancholy.
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a Chame, Nepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Bride gets in car, traditional wedding, Meiji temple, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo, Japan

A Matchmaking Sanctuary

Tokyo's Meiji Temple was erected to honor the deified spirits of one of the most influential couples in Japanese history. Over time, it specialized in celebrating traditional weddings.
Rainbow in the Grand Canyon, an example of prodigious photographic light
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 1)

And Light was made on Earth. Know how to use it.

The theme of light in photography is inexhaustible. In this article, we give you some basic notions about your behavior, to start with, just and only in terms of geolocation, the time of day and the time of year.
fortress wall of Novgorod and the Orthodox Cathedral of Hagia Sophia, Russia.
Novgorod, Russia

Mother Russia's Viking Grandmother

For most of the past century, the USSR authorities have omitted part of the origins of the Russian people. But history leaves no room for doubt. Long before the rise and supremacy of the tsars and the soviets, the first Scandinavian settlers founded their mighty nation in Novgorod.
The Little-Big Senglea II
Senglea, Malta

An Overcrowded Malta

At the turn of the 8.000th century, Senglea housed 0.2 inhabitants in 2 km3.000, a European record, today, it has “only” XNUMX neighborhood Christians. It is the smallest, most overcrowded and genuine of the Maltese cities.
Geothermal, Iceland Heat, Ice Land, Geothermal, Blue Lagoon
Winter White

The Geothermal Coziness of the Ice Island

Most visitors value Iceland's volcanic scenery for its beauty. Icelanders also draw from them heat and energy crucial to the life they lead to the Arctic gates.
shadow vs light
Kyoto, Japan

The Kyoto Temple Reborn from the Ashes

The Golden Pavilion has been spared destruction several times throughout history, including that of US-dropped bombs, but it did not withstand the mental disturbance of Hayashi Yoken. When we admired him, he looked like never before.
End of the day at the Teesta river dam lake in Gajoldoba, India
Dooars India

At the Gates of the Himalayas

We arrived at the northern threshold of West Bengal. The subcontinent gives way to a vast alluvial plain filled with tea plantations, jungle, rivers that the monsoon overflows over endless rice fields and villages bursting at the seams. On the verge of the greatest of the mountain ranges and the mountainous kingdom of Bhutan, for obvious British colonial influence, India treats this stunning region by Dooars.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Bather, The Baths, Devil's Bay (The Baths) National Park, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands
Natural Parks
Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

Virgin Gorda's Divine “Caribbaths”

Discovering the Virgin Islands, we disembark on a tropical and seductive seaside dotted with huge granite boulders. The Baths seem straight out of the Seychelles but they are one of the most exuberant marine scenery in the Caribbean.
Boat and helmsman, Cayo Los Pájaros, Los Haitises, Dominican Republic
UNESCO World Heritage
Samaná PeninsulaLos Haitises National Park Dominican Republic

From the Samaná Peninsula to the Dominican Haitises

In the northeast corner of the Dominican Republic, where Caribbean nature still triumphs, we face an Atlantic much more vigorous than expected in these parts. There we ride on a communal basis to the famous Limón waterfall, cross the bay of Samaná and penetrate the remote and exuberant “land of the mountains” that encloses it.
Couple visiting Mikhaylovskoe, village where writer Alexander Pushkin had a home
Saint Petersburg e Mikhaylovkoe, Russia

The Writer Who Succumbed to His Own Plot

Alexander Pushkin is hailed by many as the greatest Russian poet and the founder of modern Russian literature. But Pushkin also dictated an almost tragicomic epilogue to his prolific life.
Dunes of Bazaruto Island, Mozambique
bazaruto, Mozambique

The Inverted Mirage of Mozambique

Just 30km off the East African coast, an unlikely but imposing erg rises out of the translucent sea. Bazaruto it houses landscapes and people who have lived apart for a long time. Whoever lands on this lush, sandy island soon finds himself in a storm of awe.
Mauritius Island, Indian voyage, Chamarel waterfall

A Mini India in the Southwest of the Indian Ocean

In the XNUMXth century, the French and the British disputed an archipelago east of Madagascar previously discovered by the Portuguese. The British triumphed, re-colonized the islands with sugar cane cutters from the subcontinent, and both conceded previous Francophone language, law and ways. From this mix came the exotic Mauritius.
Flam Railway composition below a waterfall, Norway.
On Rails
Nesbyen to Flam, Norway

Flam Railway: Sublime Norway from the First to the Last Station

By road and aboard the Flam Railway, on one of the steepest railway routes in the world, we reach Flam and the entrance to the Sognefjord, the largest, deepest and most revered of the Scandinavian fjords. From the starting point to the last station, this monumental Norway that we have unveiled is confirmed.
Creel, Chihuahua, Carlos Venzor, collector, museum
Chihuahua a Creel, Chihuahua, Mexico

On Creel's Way

With Chihuahua behind, we point to the southwest and to even higher lands in the north of Mexico. Next to Ciudad Cuauhtémoc, we visited a Mennonite elder. Around Creel, we lived for the first time with the Rarámuri indigenous community of the Serra de Tarahumara.
Busy intersection of Tokyo, Japan
Daily life
Tokyo, Japan

The Endless Night of the Rising Sun Capital

Say that Tokyo do not sleep is an understatement. In one of the largest and most sophisticated cities on the face of the Earth, twilight marks only the renewal of the frenetic daily life. And there are millions of souls that either find no place in the sun, or make more sense in the “dark” and obscure turns that follow.
Maria Jacarés, Pantanal Brazil
Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Scenic Flights
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.