North Island, New Zealand

Journey along the Path of Maority

surf time
Young New Zealand surfer contemplates the Pacific Ocean on a beach in the north of Hawke's Bay, in the east of the North Island.
pure intimidation
Maori warrior showgirl stars in a secular warrior ritual.
In a sulphurous fog
Visitors walk in the fog of Craters da Lua, a highly geothermal surface located in Taupo, in the heart of the North Island.
Maneuvers for
Maori woman handles poi balls, created throughout history by tribal women for their enjoyment but also used by men to increase their strength and flexibility.
a maori lake
Lake Rotomahana, located in the vicinity of Mount Tarawera, a volcano responsible for one of New Zealand's most destructive eruptions.
Koru spiral
A sculpture of a koru, a Maori symbol inspired by the new curled leaves of the silver ferns that abound in New Zealand. Symbolize new life and growth.
crimson show
Moment of an ethnic show but something conceptual starring young people Maori.
green and irrigated island
One of the numerous waterfalls in the interior of the North Island formed after rains.
workshop work
Instructor examines the work of a Maori wood crafts apprentice.
Maori memory
Historical photograph of a Maori woman dressed and tattooed according to tradition.
maori duo
Two Maori actors from a themed village on the outskirts of Rotorua. The man, with lighter skin and hair and features, reenacts the native tradition of sticking out his tongue as a sign of defiance.
kiwi force of nature
Autumn setting on the Waikato River, near Taupo, heart of the North Island.
colonial architecture
Section of the historic building of the Rotorua Museum a colonial building detached from the center of Rotorua.
Flagpole with flags confirming the agreement between the Maori people and the European settlers.
New Zealand is one of the countries where the descendants of settlers and natives most respect each other. As we explored its northern island, we became aware of the interethnic maturation of this very old nation. Commonwealth as Maori and Polynesia.

There are three new features that come to Rotorua for the first time, like us:

a widespread and intense sulfurous aroma, the great concentration of native inhabitants and an unexpected profusion of Maori cultural spectacles.

The last two, more than the first, attracted us to the city, but we were still miles from its entrance when the sulfur particles in the atmosphere invaded our nostrils.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Rotorua Museum

Section of the historic building of the Rotorua Museum a colonial building detached from the center of Rotorua.

Mile after mile, we penetrated into New Zealand's most dynamic thermal zone, dotted with geysers, thermal springs and explosive mud puddles.

Meanwhile, the reeking odor took hold of the interior of the car, our clothes, luggage, as well as the streets and the room in which we stayed.

That same roadside shelter set a limit to the idiocy we'd found ourselves in for months, carrying a purchased camping tent in Perth, in the distant western end of oceania.

The tent had already made us suffer a lot to avoid paying fines for being overweight from the airlines. We decided to get rid of it and the Cash Converter we found seemed perfect.

"It gives me the idea that they haven't put it to much use!" shoots Jonas, the young Maori bartender, after the inevitable kia of welcome and with a good mood and a strong glow in his eyes.

As he did so, the clerk continued the conversation frantically.

Under the famous passion Maori by the korero (chatter), he talked about himself and his family without any ceremony or complexes and questioned us, in an innocent and interested way, about us and ours.

We lost almost 70 dollars in the deal but we profited from the confirmation of the Maori people's friendliness and vivacity, a notion that we had begun to form, in HobartAt Tasmania, in contact with Helena Gill, an immigrant hostess at the back doors of Australia.

And, in other contacts in the vast South Island, where both the general population and the Maori are much smaller than those of the neighboring North.

We only knew the Maori from those first contacts and, like most people who set foot in New Zealand for the first time, from “Piano” by Jane Campion – with Harvey Keitel playing Baines, a retired sailor and ranger who had adapted many of the indigenous customs including the eccentric facial tattoo still used by many Maoris.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Maori Memory

Historical photograph of a Maori woman dressed and tattooed according to tradition.

It was time to find out more.

Rotorua, a Volcanic and Plague Core of New Zealand Maori

Even if in business, nowhere else in the country did the Maoris exhibit their customs and rituals as much as in Rotorua. Faced with the inexistence of a true festival or ethnic event for those days, we settled for one of the shows.

At the entrance to the themed village, warriors armed with batons confronted us with their warlike movements and frightening grimaces, used over time to keep unwanted visitors at bay.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Warrior

Maori warrior showgirl stars in a secular warrior ritual.

Once the threat was over, a village chief greeted the newly appointed visitor representative with a welcoming brush of noses.

The Maori and European Colonization of Aoteraoa, the Islands of New Zealand

Once our presence was validated, we wandered from house to house in the alleged village to admire various customs, arts and crafts, some narrated and explained by their protagonists.

This was followed by a musical and dance show that included the most desired of performances, a haka carried out by men and women.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, show

Moment of an ethnic show but something conceptual starring young people Maori.

Today, less than 40% of Rotorua's nearly 70 inhabitants are Maori, a percentage well above 15% of New Zealand's total.

This is believed to have been the last stop of a diaspora of more than two thousand years aboard large canoes waka that led the Polynesians from Southeast Asia to Fiji, Samoa, Tonga, French Polynesia islands and Cook, Hawaii e Easter Island.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Waitangi canoe

Maori ceremonial canoe at the site of the Treaty of Waitangi, North Island.

In the centuries following their arrival in Aoteraoa – as the Maoris call New Zealand – they forged their own culture, differentiated from the rest of Polynesia by its isolation, temperate rather than tropical climate and befitting nature.

After the landing of James Cook in 1769 – 127 years after the pioneering arrival of Dutchman Abel Tasman - depending on the zones and heights, relations between the Maoris and the Europeans fluctuated between a convenient cordiality and the New Zealand Land Wars.

This particular conflict was unresolved in 1840 by the controversial Treaty of Waitangi.

In it it was established that the settlers recognized the Maoris as the true owners of their domains and properties and that they would enjoy the same rights as the British subjects.

The natives remained in the still rural strongholds of their tribes. But by 1930, work in the field was already scarce. Many indigenous people migrated to cities founded by Europeans.

This confluence led to the abandonment of tribal structures and the Maori assimilation of Western ways of life.

And the Intricate Ethnic Coexistence between Maori and European Descendants

Even if less obvious than in the great cities of Auckland and the capital Wellington, when we drive around Rotorua and Taupo – where we take small steps towards humanity subsumed in the sulfurous mist of the Craters of the Moon.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Rotorua fog

Visitors walk in the fog of Craters da Lua, a highly geothermal surface located in Taupo, in the heart of the North Island.

And for other smaller settlements, we find that the coexistence of Maori and settler descendants is just evolving.

Despite the agreed upon in Waitangi, the settlers had already seized the best lands, with an obvious advantage in the modern life that they imposed on the nation.

This supremacy left the Maoris in social and economic predicaments, starting with the difficulty in accessing higher education and having qualified and well-paid jobs.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Workshops

Instructor examines the work of a Maori wood crafts apprentice.

Accordingly, most native families are concentrated in peripheral neighborhoods with far more precarious living conditions than those of the middle class of British descent or of many Asian and other immigrants.

In far too many cases, they depend on social security checks, are more prone to illness and domestic violence, and make up more than half of the prison population.

Growing Respect for Maori Territories and Rights

But since 1960, the situation continues to improve. In that decade, a court declared colonial land confiscations illegal.

Shortly thereafter, the government returned to the Maori people their sacred places and natural resources.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Waikato River

Autumn setting on the Waikato River, near Taupo, heart of the North Island.

For many Maoris who consider themselves guests of the whites, only then did the long Earth Wars end.

The number of Maori representatives in parliament has increased and the value of Maori culture and the Te Reo dialect – which already appears on road signs, maps, etc. – has increased. etc. – soared with the abrupt increase in foreign visitors to the kiwi islands.

A recent network of kindergartens, schools and universities now ensure Maori language education complemented by a national chain of radio stations and TV channels owned and managed by the Maori themselves who are gaining more and more notoriety.

The World Notoriety of the Maori People, for Their Mighty Rugby

As we were writing this same text, the rugby world championship was taking place in the land of the old English settlers. As is almost always the case, New Zealand was the team that stood out and attracted the most.

It even makes us interrupt its creation to watch the French massacre at the arms of the All Blacks (62-13) in the quarter-finals. Seven of the All Blacks players present in the competition are Maori.

All games in the national team Kiwi start after haka exuberant that the Maoris granted that they were also danced by players pakeha and that even intimidate us.

In fact, a few years ago, when the Maoris decided to introduce a new haka, the entire Pakeha rugby community got involved in the debate, something that helps to exemplify the seriousness of the inter-ethnic commitment we have witnessed day after day across New Zealand, when the Maori identities and pakeha they dissolve under the fusion of genetics.

North Island, New Zealand, Maori, Surfing time

Young New Zealand surfer contemplates the Pacific Ocean on a beach in the north of Hawke's Bay, in the east of the North Island.

On the way out of some beach showers in Whangarei, we meet Renee Lee. In the middle of the verbiage, the young tattooed surfer asks us the complex question: “Maori...?

I never really know if I'm Maori or pakeha. My father is Maori and my mother is Dutch.

My daughter is blonde… Tell me, what do you think I am?”

Nelson to Wharariki, Abel Tasman NP, New Zealand

The Maori coastline on which Europeans landed

Abel Janszoon Tasman explored more of the newly mapped and mythical "Terra australis" when a mistake soured the contact with natives of an unknown island. The episode inaugurated the colonial history of the New Zealand. Today, both the divine coast on which the episode took place and the surrounding seas evoke the Dutch navigator.
Wanaka, New Zealand

The Antipodes Great Outdoors

If New Zealand is known for its tranquility and intimacy with Nature, Wanaka exceeds any imagination. Located in an idyllic setting between the homonymous lake and the mystic Mount Aspiring, it became a place of worship. Many kiwis aspire to change their lives there.
Banks Peninsula, New Zealand

The Divine Earth Shard of the Banks Peninsula

Seen from the air, the most obvious bulge on the South Island's east coast appears to have imploded again and again. Volcanic but verdant and bucolic, the Banks Peninsula confines in its almost cogwheel geomorphology the essence of the ever enviable New Zealand life.
napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s - Calhambeque Tour

In a city rebuilt in Art Deco and with an atmosphere of the "crazy years" and beyond, the adequate means of transportation are the elegant classic automobiles of that era. In Napier, they are everywhere.
Christchurch, New Zealand

New Zealand's Cursed Wizard

Despite his notoriety in the antipodes, Ian Channell, the New Zealand sorcerer, failed to predict or prevent several earthquakes that struck Christchurch. At the age of 88, after 23 years of contract with the city, he made very controversial statements and ended up fired.
Tongariro, New Zealand

The Volcanoes of All Discords

In the late XNUMXth century, an indigenous chief ceded the PN Tongariro volcanoes to the British crown. Today, a significant part of the Maori people claim their mountains of fire from European settlers.
New Zealand  

When Counting Sheep causes Sleep Loss

20 years ago, New Zealand had 18 sheep per inhabitant. For political and economic reasons, the average was halved. In the antipodes, many breeders are worried about their future.
Mount cook, New Zealand

The Cloud Piercer Mountain

Aoraki/Mount Cook may fall far short of the world's roof but it is New Zealand's highest and most imposing mountain.
Napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s

Devastated by an earthquake, Napier was rebuilt in an almost ground-floor Art Deco and lives pretending to stop in the Thirties. Its visitors surrender to the Great Gatsby atmosphere that the city enacts.
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.
bay of islands, New Zealand

New Zealand's Civilization Core

Waitangi is the key place for independence and the long-standing coexistence of native Maori and British settlers. In the surrounding Bay of Islands, the idyllic marine beauty of the New Zealand antipodes is celebrated, but also the complex and fascinating kiwi nation.
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.
Rhinoceros, PN Kaziranga, Assam, India
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
Aurora lights up the Pisang Valley, Nepal.
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 3rd- Upper Banana, Nepal

An Unexpected Snowy Aurora

At the first glimmers of light, the sight of the white mantle that had covered the village during the night dazzles us. With one of the toughest walks on the Annapurna Circuit ahead of us, we postponed the match as much as possible. Annoyed, we left Upper Pisang towards Escort when the last snow faded.
The Little-Big Senglea II
Architecture & Design
Senglea, Malta

An Overcrowded Malta

At the turn of the 8.000th century, Senglea housed 0.2 inhabitants in 2 km3.000, a European record, today, it has “only” XNUMX neighborhood Christians. It is the smallest, most overcrowded and genuine of the Maltese cities.
Totems, Botko Village, Malekula, Vanuatu
Malekula, Vanuatu

Meat and Bone Cannibalism

Until the early XNUMXth century, man-eaters still feasted on the Vanuatu archipelago. In the village of Botko we find out why European settlers were so afraid of the island of Malekula.
knights of the divine, faith in the divine holy spirit, Pirenopolis, Brazil
Ceremonies and Festivities
Pirenópolis, Brazil

A Ride of Faith

Introduced in 1819 by Portuguese priests, the Festa do Divino Espírito Santo de Pirenópolis it aggregates a complex web of religious and pagan celebrations. It lasts more than 20 days, spent mostly on the saddle.
Music Theater and Exhibition Hall, Tbilisi, Georgia
Tbilisi, Georgia

Georgia still Perfumed by the Rose Revolution

In 2003, a popular political uprising made the sphere of power in Georgia tilt from East to West. Since then, the capital Tbilisi has not renounced its centuries of Soviet history, nor the revolutionary assumption of integrating into Europe. When we visit, we are dazzled by the fascinating mix of their past lives.
Cocoa, Chocolate, Sao Tome Principe, Agua Izé farm
São Tomé and Principe

Cocoa Roças, Corallo and the Chocolate Factory

At the beginning of the century. In the XNUMXth century, São Tomé and Príncipe generated more cocoa than any other territory. Thanks to the dedication of some entrepreneurs, production survives and the two islands taste like the best chocolate.
Kigurumi Satoko, Hachiman Temple, Ogimashi, Japan
Ogimashi, Japan

An Historical-Virtual Japan

"Higurashi no Naku Koro never” was a highly successful Japanese animation and computer game series. In Ogimashi, Shirakawa-Go village, we live with a group of kigurumi of their characters.
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Camel Racing, Desert Festival, Sam Sam Dunes, Rajasthan, India
Jaisalmer, India

There's a Feast in the Thar Desert

As soon as the short winter breaks, Jaisalmer indulges in parades, camel races, and turban and mustache competitions. Its walls, alleys and surrounding dunes take on more color than ever. During the three days of the event, natives and outsiders watch, dazzled, as the vast and inhospitable Thar finally shines through.
Sunset, Avenue of Baobabs, Madagascar
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio

days like so many others

Porvoo, Finland, warehouses
Porvoo, Finland

A Medieval and Winter Finland

One of the oldest settlements of the Suomi nation, in the early XNUMXth century, Porvoo was a busy riverside post and its third city. Over time, Porvoo lost commercial importance. In return, it has become one of Finland's revered historic strongholds.  
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

Photography of Nha Terra São Nicolau

The voice of the late Cesária Verde crystallized the feeling of Cape Verdeans who were forced to leave their island. who visits São Nicolau or, wherever it may be, admires images that illustrate it well, understands why its people proudly and forever call it their land.
Maksim, Sami people, Inari, Finland-2
Winter White
Inari, Finland

The Guardians of Boreal Europe

Long discriminated against by Scandinavian, Finnish and Russian settlers, the Sami people regain their autonomy and pride themselves on their nationality.
Cove, Big Sur, California, United States
Big Sur, USA

The Coast of All Refuges

Over 150km, the Californian coast is subjected to a vastness of mountains, ocean and fog. In this epic setting, hundreds of tormented souls follow in the footsteps of Jack Kerouac and Henri Miller.
Peasant woman, Majuli, Assam, India
Majuli Island, India

An Island in Countdown

Majuli is the largest river island in India and would still be one of the largest on Earth were it not for the erosion of the river Bramaputra that has been making it diminish for centuries. If, as feared, it is submerged within twenty years, more than an island, a truly mystical cultural and landscape stronghold of the Subcontinent will disappear.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Manatee Creek, Florida, United States of America
Natural Parks
Florida Keys, USA

The Caribbean Stepping Stone of the USA

Os United States continental islands seem to close to the south in its capricious peninsula of Florida. Don't stop there. More than a hundred islands of coral, sand and mangroves form an eccentric tropical expanse that has long seduced American vacationers.
Kiomizudera, Kyoto, a Millennial Japan almost lost
UNESCO World Heritage
Kyoto, Japan

An Almost Lost Millennial Japan

Kyoto was on the US atomic bomb target list and it was more than a whim of fate that preserved it. Saved by an American Secretary of War in love with its historical and cultural richness and oriental sumptuousness, the city was replaced at the last minute by Nagasaki in the atrocious sacrifice of the second nuclear cataclysm.
Heroes Acre Monument, Zimbabwe
Harare, Zimbabwewe

The Last Rales of Surreal Mugabué

In 2015, Zimbabwe's first lady Grace Mugabe said the 91-year-old president would rule until the age of 100 in a special wheelchair. Shortly thereafter, it began to insinuate itself into his succession. But in recent days, the generals have finally precipitated the removal of Robert Mugabe, who has replaced him with former Vice President Emmerson Mnangagwa.
Phi Phi Islands, Thailand

Back to Danny Boyle's The Beach

It's been 15 years since the debut of the backpacker classic based on the novel by Alex Garland. The film popularized the places where it was shot. Shortly thereafter, the XNUMX tsunami literally washed some away off the map. Today, their controversial fame remains intact.
The Crucifixion in Helsinki
Helsinki, Finland

A Frigid-Scholarly Via Crucis

When Holy Week arrives, Helsinki shows its belief. Despite the freezing cold, little dressed actors star in a sophisticated re-enactment of Via Crucis through streets full of spectators.
Train Kuranda train, Cairns, Queensland, Australia
On Rails
Cairns-Kuranda, Australia

Train to the Middle of the Jungle

Built out of Cairns to save miners isolated in the rainforest from starvation by flooding, the Kuranda Railway eventually became the livelihood of hundreds of alternative Aussies.
Tokyo, Japan catteries, customers and sphynx cat
Tokyo, Japan

Disposable Purrs

Tokyo is the largest of the metropolises but, in its tiny apartments, there is no place for pets. Japanese entrepreneurs detected the gap and launched "catteries" in which the feline affections are paid by the hour.
Women with long hair from Huang Luo, Guangxi, China
Daily life
Longsheng, China

Huang Luo: the Chinese Village of the Longest Hairs

In a multi-ethnic region covered with terraced rice paddies, the women of Huang Luo have surrendered to the same hairy obsession. They let the longest hair in the world grow, years on end, to an average length of 170 to 200 cm. Oddly enough, to keep them beautiful and shiny, they only use water and rice.
Devils Marbles, Alice Springs to Darwin, Stuart hwy, Top End Path
Alice Springs to Darwin, Australia

Stuart Road, on its way to Australia's Top End

Do Red Center to the tropical Top End, the Stuart Highway road travels more than 1.500km lonely through Australia. Along this route, the Northern Territory radically changes its look but remains faithful to its rugged soul.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.