There is no urban phenomenon on Kauai that resembles the Hawaiian capital Honolulu in the slightest.
The atmosphere of this ancient island is bucolic and its inhabitants are spread over quiet villages with less than 10.000 inhabitants. They are all residents of old homes or homes with a historic aspect, by law, always shorter than a coconut tree.
We chose Lihue, the main and largest of the villages, as a base for exploration. We enter a nice motel-restaurant, operated by an extended Japanese-Hawaiian family that during lunchtime serves traditional Polynesian food. They change the decor completely for dinners, a meal in which the restaurant becomes a true Japanese.
On the opposite side of the street, several houses have political posters that advise Carvalho for Mayor.
The 13.000 Portuguese emigrants quickly multiplied. formed a current community of more than 60.000 Portuguese descendants. Among so many and long-established, several entered the Hawaiian political sphere with great acceptance.
The Geological Splendor of Kauai, Hawaii's Greenest Island
On Kauai, the secret to success is, by the way, simple. As a rule, it is enough to grant outsiders the best conditions to be enchanted by the island's panoramas and to spend honestly and efficiently the money they leave there, like those that the federal government grants.
Unlike what happens in Oahu, the Hawaiian Island of Encounter and Hawaii's most cosmopolitan, Kauai's greatest attractions are 100% natural.
We traverse the island from east to west to reach the first, the Waimea furtive canyon, a dramatic setting comparable to the North American Grand Canyon in terms of shapes, textures and tones.
Canyon of Waimea. Grand Canyon in the Fashion of Hawaii
Waimea hides in the depths of the island. It is reachable via the Koke'e and Waimea Canyon Drive roads that crisscross it until it reaches its western limit. It was excavated over the ages by the slow passage of the homonymous river and its tributaries. But also by seismic and volcanic activity, just like the gigantic counterpart in Arizona.
If it is true that the dimension of the Waimea canyon is far below that of the continental model, the impressive configuration of the canyons and their color palette are almost confused.
We are amazed by the subtle variations in tones each time the path takes us to a new vantage point and reveals different perspectives and, as the clouds and rain dissipate, different luminosities.
Finally, Koke'e Road comes to an end and close to the entrance to Napali Coast State Park.
The Impossible Vision of the Crest of Kalalau
It leaves us stunned in front of Kalalau, a jagged and exuberant valley, accessible only by its foothills adjacent to the Pacific Ocean or by a demanding trail so busy that the authorities have to control, day after day, the number of hikers that it. run through.
Until the XNUMXth century, many native Hawaiians lived in this lush and colorful setting where they planted taro in terraces conquered from the vegetation. These days, the park's statute prohibits any building.
Viewed on the map, the Napali Coast appears just a few kilometers north of Waimea Canyon. The absence of a road connecting the two would, in itself, be a good reason to explore it only the next day.
We had, however, another unavoidable reason. We were going to do it from the air.
A Panoramic Flight As Eccentric as Kauai
We return to Lihue in the middle of the afternoon, with just time to get into a panoramic helicopter. Kurt, a half-crazed employee who insists on treating us and other customers by “kids”, takes us between the company office and the city airport.
In turn, Michael, the pilot, assures passengers that they will embark on one of the most solemn experiences of their lives. Then he takes his shoes off to the side of the pedals and makes the helicopter soar into the sky.
In a flash, we left Lihue and civilization behind. We return to the Waimea canyon which, seen from the air, proves fascinating to double.
Michael turns up the volume on Beethoven's 5th Symphony that he's chosen as the soundtrack for the flight. Makes the aircraft penetrate a blanket of clouds trapped against the mountain. Out of the fog, the pilot accentuates the pomp of the voiceover and announces the high point of the course, the Napali Coast.
The Napali Coast and the (Even More) Lush North of Kauai, Seen from the Air
Before us, the Pacific Ocean and the entire northwest coast of Kauai unveiled, sculpted by the intense rain and wind that have always punished the volcanic mountains.
More than approaching, the pilot arrests and scares passengers with filmic incursions in canyons and deep valleys. It accompanies long waterfalls and cliffs covered with moss and verdant vegetation that contrast with the reds and browns of the rocky walls to which they cling.
Above, dominates the pivotal summit of Mount Wai'ale'ale (1570 m) which retains moisture from the North Pacific and is one of the wettest spots on the planet with an average annual rainfall exceeding 1160mm.
Nothing is heard on board apart from classical music and the follow-up to the pilot's voiceover. Michael talks about the geological antiquity of the place. Take the opportunity to list some of his most recent prodigies in the 7th art.
Sublime like few others, Kauai and, in particular, the Napali Coast amaze whoever discovers them. The list includes countless Hollywood directors and producers.
His scenarios were used in mega-successes such as “Jurassic Park”, “King Kong” the musical “South Pacific”, “Raiders of the Lost Ark”, the TV series “Fantasy Island” and “Hawaiian Spell” that launched Elvis Presley to prolific stardom, among others.
This regular presence on screen has long been the most media-friendly proof of how time has only favored Kauai.