We came from the banks of the Shire, one of Malawi's great rivers. We followed the edge of the largest lakes in the nation. First Malombe. After a new period on the edge of the Shire that unites them, we move to the edge of Malawi, the third largest in Africa.
We leave the main road heading north, through what is called the Nankumba peninsula and a winding and undulating road traveled almost only by motorbikes loaded with a little of everything, two or three, already defeated by the demands of the load and the route.
At a certain point, we traveled between steep slopes, covered in leafy vegetation that, once the rainy season ended, the heat of the tropical oven dried up visibly.
A few plantations dotted this valley, cassava and sweet potatoes. Still, pockets of jungle were home to colonies of monkeys that we saw patrolling the road, on the lookout for any less natural treat.
Many ups, downs and holes in the asphalt later, we reached the top of the peninsula and the access gate to Lake Malawi National Park. The destination we were heading to did not require us to cross it.
Instead, we headed towards Chembe, a village located on the edge of the lake, made up of humble fishermen's houses and huts. And of people who have found sustenance in the thousands of outsiders, most of them backpackers, who explore Lake Malawi from Cape Maclear and Monkey Bay opposite.
Having overcome a sequence of dramatic craters left by the rains, we came across the facilities of Kayak Africa, the concession company for the island we had as our destination. Joseph Kamanje welcomes us, takes care of us to freshen up, as well as the entrance formalities.
On board the “Lady Java SS”, towards Mumbo Island
Then take us to “Lady Java SS”, the white catamaran that operates trips between Chembe and Mumbo. As expected, navigation is unhurried.
We were rocked by gentle waves that a breeze coming from the south made us repeat at a good pace.
“Miss Java SS” returns to Mumbo Island, Lake Malawi
For some time we advanced under cover along the south coast of Thumbi Island. From its curvilinear western end, for more than half an hour, we plowed through the open waters of Kasankha Bay.
Mumbo goes from a glimpse to a defined vision, of an island with steep slopes, covered in its own jungle.
We skirt the two islets that stand out from the southern tip. The first, tiny, almost symbolic, is the result of one of the countless hillforts made of granite rocks that adorn Lake Malawi.
Rock hills off the islet of Mumbo
The other rises above several of them, larger and more stable, enough for us to inhabit.
The “Lady Java SS” enters the main cove of Mumbo Island. It docks on the rounded sand that serves as the beach.
Afternoon Disembarkation at Mumbo Island Beach
Due to the most intense and long-lasting rains since the middle of the 20th century, in this region of Africa, we find it reduced to a small band, the helmsman tells us, not even a third of the usual amount.
The shrinkage results from the same flooding of the lake that damaged countless buildings and crops, especially on the Malawi side, not so much, on the less developed side of Mozambique, where the lake is still treated by Niassa.
We disembarked almost in the shade of the vegetation. Welcome us Mariot.
He shows us the dining and social room, like all the structures on the island, built from wood, hut and similar plant materials.
Mumbo Island Camp Cabin, Lake Malawi
As a whole, the “camp” is a project inaugurated in 1996 by a young South African couple, Pierre Bester and Marzi Callender, who were joined by Pierre's brother, Clive, as well as Jurie Schoeman and Rob Assad.
These reinforcements of the initial team, despite separations and even tragedies, made it possible to expand the activity of the company that united them, Kayak Africa, to other islands, including Madagascar.
We went back down to the beach. From there, we crossed for the first time the walkway that connects Mumbo to its islet.
Mumbo Island main walkway, Lake Malawi
Mariot shows us a few of the huts built above it, each one with its own stunning view.
The Cabin, among Cacti, above the Cove
Ours extended onto an open balcony, set above Mumbo cove, facing the beach and the southern tip of the island.
It gave us a misty glimpse of the bottom of Kasankha Bay and different points of mainland Malawi, not Cape MacLear and Chembwe, both behind the islet.
We settled between anxiety and the satisfaction of knowing that, in Mumbo and in that cabin in particular, we would have to cope without Internet or electricity.
Interior of one of the huts on Mumbo Island, Lake Malawi
The journey that had dragged on since 11 am and the distant Mvuu Lodge, in Lilondwe PN and which forced us on three hours of bumpy road, kept us feeling somewhat sedative tiredness to which the almost night and the tangled bed suggested we surrender.
Around five in the afternoon, we really let ourselves sleep.
Mariot had explained that, at seven, a reverberating tone propagated by a wooden frog would serve as the signal for dinner time. As far as we were concerned, the frog didn't quack. They come to wake us up and guide us, in the almost dark.
We had dinner by candlelight. Shortly after, we returned to the cabin. At first, it is stiflingly hot. Without warning, the south wind intensifies. It floods Lake Malawi with hyperbolic waves.
The First Night Above Lake Malawi
It ruins another night of fishing for the vast community of fishermen who depend on it, it brings us the Internet signal that we had already considered lost and it cools the room more efficiently than any air conditioning that doesn't exist in Mumbo.
Despite the Internet, we went back to sleep without any appeal.
We woke up at 8:15 am. Shortly afterwards, the “Lady Java SS” reappears.
New team rendering is completed. And Mariot leaves.
Crew on board the catamaran “Miss Java SS”, Mumbo Island
Walk to Taste the Lines of a Map
We collected one of the island's trail maps and went down to the beach to study it.
On the sand, two large monitor lizards were recharging themselves in the sun. So absorbed that only when they feel us two feet away do they decide to move.
Monitor Lizard in the sun, on the beach of Mumbo Island
We went back up.
We embarked on a tour up and down the island, excited about whatever held us. We felt other monitors dragging themselves over the dry leaves.
In search of stealth spots marked on the map, we mainly came across lizards that could easily be called rainbow, so many are the tones in which their shiny skin shines.
Blue Lizard, Mumbo island, Lake Malawi
A few points on rocks and free from vegetation serve as natural viewpoints.
From the top, here and there, in the now calmer lake, we see busy fishermen.
Fishermen off Mumbo Island, southern Lake Malawi
And ospreys, in constant shuttles departing from nests and landing nearby, left to their own work.
We returned to base in time for lunch.
It is now Tristan, a colleague of Mariot, who serves us the meal.
Tristan, employee at Mumbo Island Camp, Lake Malawi
The Longed-For Exploration of Lake Malawi
We recovered from wandering on the cabin's porch. In the middle of the afternoon, with the wind still calming down, we returned to the beach with plans to spend time at the lake.
We boarded two kayaks. We point to the exit of the bay and the pile of rocks on the extension of Mumbo islet.
Among the rocks, a native was fishing with a line, in a canoe carved from a single log. We go around the lithic formation.
Fisherman among rocks off Mumbo Island
We greeted him from a distance, being careful not to scare away the fish he was aiming for, a few specimens of the more than a thousand species already detected in Lake Malawi.
Some are so colorful that they provide more rewarding snorkeling and diving than in many tropical seas.
Salt aside, Lake Malawi looks like a real ocean.
Fishermen off Mumbo Island, southern Lake Malawi
We were able to see this when traveling on windy days, aboard the ferry “Ilala”. And during other gales, swimming, among vigorous coastal waves.
There was agitation that clashed with the calm we experienced back on the beach, with a strong reason to cut short the fun in the kayaks.
Circumnavigation of the Island
We had planned a return to Mumbo, aboard the “Lady Java SS” and in time for sunset.
First, for its already dark side, where, even so, we identify the viewpoint cliffs recently conquered on the morning walk.
Sara Wong at Rock Fig View, Mumbo Island
At a certain point, they were already warmed by the great star that turned the granite rocks at the base of the island orange.
We stopped at a point opposite to where the camp was located, facing mainland Malawi.
Two ospreys that watched the waters, golden by the sun, swoop down on fish, right in front of us.
Osprey with the setting sun in the background, Lake Malawi
As they tear apart and devour their prey, the sun dips behind the mountains to the west.
When we return to the beach, the hills of cliffs that precede the cove stand out in a magenta-blue twilight.
After sunset, off Mumbo Island
Having completed our ecological baths, filled with a bucket of heated water and dinner over, we reoccupied the panoramic post on our balcony.
Due to the extension of the calm, several boats from Cape Maclear and elsewhere are occupying positions in areas of the lake that fishermen know for attracting schools of fish. We see them and hear their conversations and discussions, carried by the gentle breeze.
Without the southerly gale and the Internet signal that this inclement wind blows, we stay on the balcony throughout the night.
Under an almost full moon, the dark gives us glimpses of the silhouettes of dozens of boats. And the brightness of the lights with which the fishermen illuminate themselves, contrasted with that of the stars above.
How to go
Fly to Lilongwe via Maputo, with TAP Air Portugal: flytap.com/ and FlyAirlink.
Where to stay
Mumbo Island Camp: mumboisland.com; e-mail: [email protected]
Tel.: +27 (0)82 78 54 294
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