Morro de São Paulo, Brazil

A Divine Seaside of Bahia


Magnificent Atlantic Days
Bathers dive into the tropical sea off Morro de São Paulo.
underwater life for two
Casal goes snorkeling in the natural pools in front of Morro do Farol.
in God's care
Donkey and ice cream cart blessed by the church of Nª Senhora da Luz.
fishing in balance
Friends fish by hand in the bar of the Red River.
Coconut green in a blue sky
Coconut palms protrude over the old fort area.
Cicerone and Skipper
Guia Dentinho leads a group of foreign visitors around the hill.
old protection
The old fort, once essential for defending against attacks by enemy ships.
Red River mouth
Curvilinear coastline at the mouth of the Vermelho River, bordering the islands of Tinharé and Boipeba
Coconut to freeze
Coconut seller drives his loaded mule along the Morro de São Paulo seafront.
bathing transport
Carregador drives a wheelbarrow along one of the last beaches of Morro de São Paulo.
Delicate transshipment
Nativo tries to get to his boat without getting his clothes wet.
1st Beach Bay
The original inlet of Morro de São Paulo, the one that brings together the original fishermen's houses.
waiting for the sunset
A small community of sunset worshipers coexists on the old walls of the old fort of Morro de São Paulo.
Bahia Zipline
Vacationer from Morro de São Paulo launches himself over the sea of ​​Primeira Praia in the famous zip line of Morro de São Paulo
the old man's fort
Visitors enter the interior area of ​​the old fort of Morro de São Paulo, once providential for the defense of the village.
Three decades ago, it was just a remote and humble fishing village. Until some post-hippie communities revealed the Morro's retreat to the world and promoted it to a kind of bathing sanctuary.

Even though the view from the boat from Salvador had made it clear, it began to seem to us that the Morro was keen to prove that it was not just any elevation.

Once disembarked, as we walk along the pier, we are approached by wheelbarrow drivers who offer their services. It didn't take us long to understand why almost everyone accepted them willingly.

At the end of the pier, there is a first ramp that leads to the village gate.

After this portal, we come face to face with the slope that leads to the church of Nossa Senhora da Luz, which is even longer and steeper.

in God's care

Donkey and ice cream cart blessed by the church of Nª Senhora da Luz.

As a rule, it is here that those who made a point of transporting their luggage regret, they are forced to give in and spend some reais to the workers at the dock.

The Morro loaders business was so blessed by the local relief and the almost total absence of vehicles (except for a few tractors) that it never stopped prospering.

At one point, there were so many professionals in the field that they had to form the ACMSP (Association of Chargers of Morro de São Paulo) in charge of regulating procedures, dictating the fashion of the uniform and setting prices: five reais to the Second beach, the double for the Fourth, more fit, less fit.

1st Beach Bay

The original inlet of Morro de São Paulo, the one that brings together the housing fishermen's originals.

Five Coastal Sections, Five Divine Beaches of Bahia

A welcoming people, the Morrenses quickly proved themselves pragmatic too. With five well-demarcated stretches of coastline at their disposal, instead of improvising folkloric names to identify them, they opted for their numerical name.

The First beach is about 500 meters long and welcomed pioneer visitors to the village. It is in the cove that delimits it, with the lighthouse peeking from the heights, that its houses face the sea and Pedra do Moleque, a rocky inlet that generates a swell used by surfers.

Surfing is far from being the most radical activity practiced in these parts.

The Famous and Feared Zipline of Morro do Farol

Adventure entrepreneurs decided to cash in on Morro do Farol's supreme location and installed a zipline rope. From time to time, someone appears in a controlled flight over First Beach and causes a huge splash that scares the most distracted swimmers.

Bahia Zipline

Vacationer from Morro de São Paulo launches himself over the sea of ​​Primeira Praia in the famous zip line of Morro de São Paulo

This experience constantly produces adrenaline and refreshes the fearless souls who try it. During weekends and summer holidays, it also creates a considerable queue at the jump ramp.

As we had the opportunity to prove, the waiting time is not spent in vain. From above, the Morro de São Paulo reveals, in panoramic format, all its splendor.

Formed by three interconnected hills – the Morros de Farol, Mangaba and Galeão – the village appears on the northeastern tip of Tinharé, one of the islands of Costa de Dendê, which in turn, is located between the Bahian Reconcavo and the Rio de Contas.

Coconut green in a blue sky

Coconut palms protrude over the old fort area.

The second beach is right next door but it has little to do with the previous one. It is, by far, the most famous and best equipped of the five, which, for the unyielding followers of ecology, could be dispensed with.

Early in the morning, its extensive beach becomes a field for various types of sports and arts: football, footvolley, volleyball, frescobol (aka beach tennis), capoeira and so on. Or just and alone in a retreat where sunbathers soak up the tropical heat on rental chairs and sun loungers.

The Always Lively Muvuca of Second Beach

If, during the day, Monday is busy, after dark, little or nothing changes. At that time, bars and clubs are getting ready to host the “muvuca”, a kind of intense, noisy and international party that often only ends at dawn.

waiting for the sunsetUntil around XNUMX pm, the guests gather in the bars and restaurants in the center of the village, lively around the caipirinhas and cocktails. Sooner or later, the first spots of live music appear there. Euphoria is generalized with everyone dancing and singing the hits of the moment.

On one of the days we dedicated to the Morro, around eleven, we joined one of these migrations to “little Ibiza” where the track almost always opens with mobilizing introductions shouted by the DJ's and MC's on duty: “The night will be boooooooooo !”

More fruit and drinks stalls close a square drawn on the sand, like a encirclement. When tiredness and thirst are felt, there they are, ready to be planted, as if they were stands for re-establishing energy or, in the most drastic cases, for medical assistance.

Third and Fourth Beaches. The Morro de São Paulo Bathing Retreat

Almost without sand, the Terceira beach is left to offer some water activities, such as diving off the Caitá islet. But not only. Its inns welcome those who prefer to fall asleep lulled by the sound of the waves instead of the electronic roar coming from its predecessor beaches.

Four kilometers long and with a low tide that lends it many meters of extra sand and countless natural pools of warm water, Quarta Praia is less explored.

It gives visitors a sense of peace and freedom unique to the Morro.

Magnificent Atlantic Days

Bathers dive into the tropical sea off Morro de São Paulo.

The Quinta, in turn, is just a final stretch of the Fourth, about 1 km long. Even though the separation established by the mouth of the Vermelho River gives it a distinct scenario that is just as appealing.

Perhaps already fed up with the beach sequencing, Morro de São Paulo agencies and tourism chose to advertise it as Praia do Encanto.

Another type of appeal to the senses leads us to join a new pilgrimage, this time in the afternoon.

The Almost Sacred Sunset of Forte do Morro

Around five o'clock, we follow the flow of dozens of holidaymakers who follow the path parallel to the walls of the old Morro fortress and settle on what is left of the battlements.

old protection

The old fort, once essential for defending against attacks by enemy ships.

They come almost all equipped with cameras. A few of these twilight worshipers favor violas and jambes and enliven the strange ceremonial with classic and rejuvenated themes of samba and bossa-nova.

When the sun approaches the horizon line, the fort is already a stand that the public has overcrowded. It stands several meters above a translucent sea contained below by the ruin of the secular wall.

underwater life for two

Casal goes snorkeling in the natural pools in front of Morro do Farol.

In the past few days, the weather had left us mostly with clear skies. Again, in this delicious evening, the immaculate firmament takes on warm hues.

the contours of the island of Tinharé become sharper than ever.

Delicate transshipment

Nativo tries to get to his boat without getting his clothes wet.

Little by little, the sun takes shelter on the other side of the World. It leaves incandescent patterns above the horizon and a celestial aura that progresses from soft pink to lilac and, close to the Atlantic Ocean, turns a deep purple.

Tired of admiring the slow dip of the star, we had fun appreciating how, despite the massive participation of outsiders, most of the natives present there ignored the universalized romanticism of the moment.

fishing in balance

Friends fish by hand in the bar of the Red River.

Some take advantage of the crowd's sensory vulnerability to sell ice cream.

Others compete in three-for-three matches (with one-step goals) in an improvised field among haughty coconut trees.

Of the latter, the only comment alluding to the great star worthy of record was uttered, with undisguised bad temper, by an irascible “nursery” saturated with criticism:

“What do you want rapaizzz?! 'I'm taking it with this sun in my eyes! I didn't see the guy coming, no!”

Manaus, Brazil

The Jumps and Starts of the former World Rubber Capital

From 1879 to 1912, only the Amazon River basin generated the latex that, from one moment to another, the world needed and, out of nowhere, Manaus became one of the most advanced cities on the face of the Earth. But an English explorer took the tree to Southeast Asia and ruined pioneer production. Manaus once again proved its elasticity. It is the largest city in the Amazon and the seventh in Brazil.

Florianopolis, Brazil

The South Atlantic Azorean Legacy

During the XNUMXth century, thousands of Portuguese islanders pursued better lives in the southern confines of Brazil. In the villages they founded, traces of affinity with the origins abound.

Ilhabela, Brazil

Ilhabela: After Horror, the Atlantic Beauty

Ninety percent of the preserved Atlantic Forest, idyllic waterfalls and gentle, wild beaches live up to the name. But, if we go back in time, we also reveal the horrific historical facet of Ilhabela.
Ilhabela, Brazil

In Ilhabela, on the way to Bonete

A community of caiçaras descendants of pirates founded a village in a corner of Ilhabela. Despite the difficult access, Bonete was discovered and considered one of the ten best beaches in Brazil.
Margarita Island ao Mochima NP, Venezuela

Margarita Island to Mochima National Park: a very Caribbean Caribe

The exploration of the Venezuelan coast justifies a wild nautical party. But, these stops also reveal life in cactus forests and waters as green as the tropical jungle of Mochima.
Corn Islands - Islas del Maíz , Nicaragua

pure caribbean

Perfect tropical settings and genuine local life are the only luxuries available in the so-called Corn Islands or Corn Islands, an archipelago lost in the Central American confines of the Caribbean Sea.
Gili Islands, Indonesia

Gili: the Indonesian Islands the World Calls "Islands"

They are so humble that they are known by the term bahasa which means only islands. Despite being discreet, the Gili have become the favorite haunt of travelers who pass through Lombok or Bali.
Coron, Busuanga, Philippines

The Secret but Sunken Japanese Armada

In World War II, a Japanese fleet failed to hide off Busuanga and was sunk by US planes. Today, its underwater wreckage attract thousands of divers.
Maupiti, French Polynesia

A Society on the Margin

In the shadow of neighboring Bora Bora's near-global fame, Maupiti is remote, sparsely inhabited and even less developed. Its inhabitants feel abandoned but those who visit it are grateful for the abandonment.
Waikiki, OahuHawaii

The Japanese Invasion of Hawaii

Decades after the attack on Pearl Harbor and from the capitulation in World War II, the Japanese returned to Hawaii armed with millions of dollars. Waikiki, his favorite target, insists on surrendering.
Île-des-Pins, New Caledonia

The Island that Leaned against Paradise

In 1964, Katsura Morimura delighted the Japan with a turquoise novel set in Ouvéa. But the neighboring Île-des-Pins has taken over the title "The Nearest Island to Paradise" and thrills its visitors.
Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu

Divine Melanesia

Pedro Fernandes de Queirós thought he had discovered Terra Australis. The colony he proposed never materialized. Today, Espiritu Santo, the largest island in Vanuatu, is a kind of Eden.
Passo do Lontra, Miranda, Brazil

The Flooded Brazil of Passo do Lontra

We are on the western edge of Mato Grosso do Sul but bush, on these sides, is something else. In an extension of almost 200.000 km2, the Brazil it appears partially submerged, by rivers, streams, lakes and other waters dispersed in vast alluvial plains. Not even the panting heat of the dry season drains the life and biodiversity of Pantanal places and farms like the one that welcomed us on the banks of the Miranda River.
Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
Curitiba, Brazil

The High-Quality Life of Curitiba

It is not only the altitude of almost 1000 meters at which the city is located. Cosmopolitan and multicultural, the capital of Paraná has a quality of life and human development rating that make it a unique case in Brazil.
Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

The Swampy Freedom of Quilombo do Remanso

Runaway slaves have survived for centuries around a wetland in Chapada Diamantina. Today, the quilombo of Remanso is a symbol of their union and resistance, but also of the exclusion to which they were voted.
Goiás Velho, Brazil

A Gold Rush Legacy

Two centuries after the heyday of prospecting, lost in time and in the vastness of the Central Plateau, Goiás esteems its admirable colonial architecture, the surprising wealth that remains to be discovered there.
Brasilia, Brazil

Brasília: from Utopia to the Capital and Political Arena of Brazil

Since the days of the Marquis of Pombal, there has been talk of transferring the capital to the interior. Today, the chimera city continues to look surreal but dictates the rules of Brazilian development.
Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

Lençóis da Bahia: not Even Diamonds Are Forever

In the XNUMXth century, Lençóis became the world's largest supplier of diamonds. But the gem trade did not last as expected. Today, the colonial architecture that he inherited is his most precious possession.
Itaipu Binational Hydroelectric Power Plant, Brazil

Itaipu Binational Hydroelectric Power Plant: Watt Fever

In 1974, thousands of Brazilians and Paraguayans flocked to the construction zone of the then largest dam in the world. 30 years after completion, Itaipu generates 90% of Paraguay's energy and 20% of Brazil's.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
safari
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Thorong Pedi to High Camp, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Lone Walker
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 12th - Thorong Phedi a High camp

The Prelude to the Supreme Crossing

This section of the Annapurna Circuit is only 1km away, but in less than two hours it takes you from 4450m to 4850m and to the entrance to the great canyon. Sleeping in High Camp is a test of resistance to Mountain Evil that not everyone passes.
holy plain, Bagan, Myanmar
Architecture & Design
Bagan, Myanmar

The Plain of Pagodas, Temples and other Heavenly Redemptions

Burmese religiosity has always been based on a commitment to redemption. In Bagan, wealthy and fearful believers continue to erect pagodas in hopes of winning the benevolence of the gods.
Tibetan heights, altitude sickness, mountain prevent to treat, travel
Adventure

Altitude Sickness: the Grievances of Getting Mountain Sick

When traveling, it happens that we find ourselves confronted with the lack of time to explore a place as unmissable as it is high. Medicine and previous experiences with Altitude Evil dictate that we should not risk ascending in a hurry.
Camel Racing, Desert Festival, Sam Sam Dunes, Rajasthan, India
Ceremonies and Festivities
Jaisalmer, India

There's a Feast in the Thar Desert

As soon as the short winter breaks, Jaisalmer indulges in parades, camel races, and turban and mustache competitions. Its walls, alleys and surrounding dunes take on more color than ever. During the three days of the event, natives and outsiders watch, dazzled, as the vast and inhospitable Thar finally shines through.
Museum of Petroleum, Stavanger, Norway
Cities
Stavanger, Norway

The Motor City of Norway

The abundance of offshore oil and natural gas and the headquarters of the companies in charge of exploiting them have promoted Stavanger from the Norwegian energy capital preserve. Even so, this city didn't conform. With a prolific historical legacy, at the gates of a majestic fjord, cosmopolitan Stavanger has long propelled the Land of the Midnight Sun.
Meal
Margilan, Uzbekistan

An Uzbekistan's Breadwinner

In one of the many bakeries in Margilan, worn out by the intense heat of the tandyr oven, the baker Maruf'Jon works half-baked like the distinctive traditional breads sold throughout Uzbekistan
coast, fjord, Seydisfjordur, Iceland
Culture
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Sport
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
Cambodia, Angkor, Ta Phrom
Traveling
Ho Chi Minh a of Angkor, Cambodia

The Crooked Path to Angkor

From Vietnam onwards, Cambodia's crumbling roads and minefields take us back to the years of Khmer Rouge terror. We survive and are rewarded with the vision of the greatest religious temple
Impressions Lijiang Show, Yangshuo, China, Red Enthusiasm
Ethnic
Lijiang e Yangshuo, China

An Impressive China

One of the most respected Asian filmmakers, Zhang Yimou dedicated himself to large outdoor productions and co-authored the media ceremonies of the Beijing OG. But Yimou is also responsible for “Impressions”, a series of no less controversial stagings with stages in emblematic places.
ice tunnel, black gold route, Valdez, Alaska, USA
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Sensations vs Impressions

Nelson Dockyards, Antigua Docks,
History
English Harbor, Antigua (Antilles)

Nelson's Dockyard: The Former Naval Base and Abode of the Admiral

In the XNUMXth century, as the English disputed control of the Caribbean and the sugar trade with their colonial rivals, they took over the island of Antigua. There they came across a jagged cove they called English Harbour. They made it a strategic port that also housed the idolized naval officer.
View from the top of Mount Vaea and the tomb, Vailima village, Robert Louis Stevenson, Upolu, Samoa
Islands
Upolu, Samoa

Stevenson's Treasure Island

At age 30, the Scottish writer began looking for a place to save him from his cursed body. In Upolu and the Samoans, he found a welcoming refuge to which he gave his heart and soul.
Sampo Icebreaker, Kemi, Finland
Winter White
Kemi, Finland

It's No "Love Boat". Breaks the Ice since 1961

Built to maintain waterways through the most extreme arctic winter, the icebreaker Sampo” fulfilled its mission between Finland and Sweden for 30 years. In 1988, he reformed and dedicated himself to shorter trips that allow passengers to float in a newly opened channel in the Gulf of Bothnia, in clothes that, more than special, seem spacey.
Lake Manyara, National Park, Ernest Hemingway, Giraffes
Literature
Lake Manyara NP, Tanzania

Hemingway's Favorite Africa

Situated on the western edge of the Rift Valley, Lake Manyara National Park is one of the smallest but charming and richest in Europe. wild life of Tanzania. In 1933, between hunting and literary discussions, Ernest Hemingway dedicated a month of his troubled life to him. He narrated those adventurous safari days in “The Green Hills of Africa".
Herd in Manang, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Nature
Annapurna Circuit: 8th Manang, Nepal

Manang: the Last Acclimatization in Civilization

Six days after leaving Besisahar we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). Located at the foot of the Annapurna III and Gangapurna Mountains, Manang is the civilization that pampers and prepares hikers for the ever-dreaded crossing of Thorong La Gorge (5416 m).
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, lions
Natural Parks
NP Gorongosa, Mozambique

The Wild Heart of Mozambique shows Signs of Life

Gorongosa was home to one of the most exuberant ecosystems in Africa, but from 1980 to 1992 it succumbed to the Civil War waged between FRELIMO and RENAMO. Greg Carr, Voice Mail's millionaire inventor received a message from the Mozambican ambassador to the UN challenging him to support Mozambique. For the good of the country and humanity, Carr pledged to resurrect the stunning national park that the Portuguese colonial government had created there.
Puerto Rico, San Juan, walled city, panoramic
UNESCO World Heritage
San Juan, Puerto Rico

The Highly Walled Puerto Rico of San Juan Bautista

San Juan is the second oldest colonial city in the Americas, after the Dominican neighbor of Santo Domingo. A pioneering emporium and stop over on the route that took gold and silver from the New World to Spain, it was attacked again and again. Its incredible fortifications still protect one of the most lively and prodigious capitals in the Caribbean.
female and cub, grizzly footsteps, katmai national park, alaska
Characters
PN Katmai, Alaska

In the Footsteps of the Grizzly Man

Timothy Treadwell spent summers on end with the bears of Katmai. Traveling through Alaska, we followed some of its trails, but unlike the species' crazy protector, we never went too far.
Cabo Ledo Angola, moxixeiros
Beaches
Cape Ledo, Angola

Cape Ledo and its Bay of Joy

Just 120km south of Luanda, capricious waves of the Atlantic and cliffs crowned with moxixeiros compete for the land of musseque. The large cove is shared by foreigners surrendered to the scene and Angolan residents who have long been supported by the generous sea.
The Crucifixion in Helsinki
Religion
Helsinki, Finland

A Frigid-Scholarly Via Crucis

When Holy Week arrives, Helsinki shows its belief. Despite the freezing cold, little dressed actors star in a sophisticated re-enactment of Via Crucis through streets full of spectators.
Train Kuranda train, Cairns, Queensland, Australia
On Rails
Cairns-Kuranda, Australia

Train to the Middle of the Jungle

Built out of Cairns to save miners isolated in the rainforest from starvation by flooding, the Kuranda Railway eventually became the livelihood of hundreds of alternative Aussies.
Street Bar, Fremont Street, Las Vegas, United States
Society
Las Vegas, USA

The Sin City Cradle

The famous Strip has not always focused the attention of Las Vegas. Many of its hotels and casinos replicated the neon glamor of the street that once stood out, Fremont Street.
Ditching, Alaska Fashion Life, Talkeetna
Daily life
Talkeetna, Alaska

Talkeetna's Alaska-Style Life

Once a mere mining outpost, Talkeetna rejuvenated in 1950 to serve Mt. McKinley climbers. The town is by far the most alternative and most captivating town between Anchorage and Fairbanks.
Bather rescue in Boucan Canot, Reunion Island
Wildlife
Reunion Island

The Bathing Melodrama of Reunion

Not all tropical coastlines are pleasurable and refreshing retreats. Beaten by violent surf, undermined by treacherous currents and, worse, the scene of the most frequent shark attacks on the face of the Earth, that of the Reunion Island he fails to grant his bathers the peace and delight they crave from him.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.