Morro de São Paulo, Brazil

A Divine Seaside of Bahia

Magnificent Atlantic Days
Bathers dive into the tropical sea off Morro de São Paulo.
underwater life for two
Casal goes snorkeling in the natural pools in front of Morro do Farol.
in God's care
Donkey and ice cream cart blessed by the church of Nª Senhora da Luz.
fishing in balance
Friends fish by hand in the bar of the Red River.
Coconut green in a blue sky
Coconut palms protrude over the old fort area.
Cicerone and Skipper
Guia Dentinho leads a group of foreign visitors around the hill.
old protection
The old fort, once essential for defending against attacks by enemy ships.
Red River mouth
Curvilinear coastline at the mouth of the Vermelho River, bordering the islands of Tinharé and Boipeba
Coconut to freeze
Coconut seller drives his loaded mule along the Morro de São Paulo seafront.
bathing transport
Carregador drives a wheelbarrow along one of the last beaches of Morro de São Paulo.
Delicate transshipment
Nativo tries to get to his boat without getting his clothes wet.
1st Beach Bay
The original inlet of Morro de São Paulo, the one that brings together the original fishermen's houses.
waiting for the sunset
A small community of sunset worshipers coexists on the old walls of the old fort of Morro de São Paulo.
Bahia Zipline
Vacationer from Morro de São Paulo launches himself over the sea of ​​Primeira Praia in the famous zip line of Morro de São Paulo
the old man's fort
Visitors enter the interior area of ​​the old fort of Morro de São Paulo, once providential for the defense of the village.
Three decades ago, it was just a remote and humble fishing village. Until some post-hippie communities revealed the Morro's retreat to the world and promoted it to a kind of bathing sanctuary.

Even though the view from the boat from Salvador had made it clear, it began to seem to us that the Morro was keen to prove that it was not just any elevation.

Once disembarked, as we walk along the pier, we are approached by wheelbarrow drivers who offer their services. It didn't take us long to understand why almost everyone accepted them willingly.

At the end of the pier, there is a first ramp that leads to the village gate.

After this portal, we come face to face with the slope that leads to the church of Nossa Senhora da Luz, which is even longer and steeper.

in God's care

Donkey and ice cream cart blessed by the church of Nª Senhora da Luz.

As a rule, it is here that those who made a point of transporting their luggage regret, they are forced to give in and spend some reais to the workers at the dock.

The Morro loaders business was so blessed by the local relief and the almost total absence of vehicles (except for a few tractors) that it never stopped prospering.

At one point, there were so many professionals in the field that they had to form the ACMSP (Association of Chargers of Morro de São Paulo) in charge of regulating procedures, dictating the fashion of the uniform and setting prices: five reais to the Second beach, the double for the Fourth, more fit, less fit.

1st Beach Bay

The original inlet of Morro de São Paulo, the one that brings together the housing fishermen's originals.

Five Coastal Sections, Five Divine Beaches of Bahia

A welcoming people, the Morrenses quickly proved themselves pragmatic too. With five well-demarcated stretches of coastline at their disposal, instead of improvising folkloric names to identify them, they opted for their numerical name.

The First beach is about 500 meters long and welcomed pioneer visitors to the village. It is in the cove that delimits it, with the lighthouse peeking from the heights, that its houses face the sea and Pedra do Moleque, a rocky inlet that generates a swell used by surfers.

Surfing is far from being the most radical activity practiced in these parts.

The Famous and Feared Zipline of Morro do Farol

Adventure entrepreneurs decided to cash in on Morro do Farol's supreme location and installed a zipline rope. From time to time, someone appears in a controlled flight over First Beach and causes a huge splash that scares the most distracted swimmers.

Bahia Zipline

Vacationer from Morro de São Paulo launches himself over the sea of ​​Primeira Praia in the famous zip line of Morro de São Paulo

This experience constantly produces adrenaline and refreshes the fearless souls who try it. During weekends and summer holidays, it also creates a considerable queue at the jump ramp.

As we had the opportunity to prove, the waiting time is not spent in vain. From above, the Morro de São Paulo reveals, in panoramic format, all its splendor.

Formed by three interconnected hills – the Morros de Farol, Mangaba and Galeão – the village appears on the northeastern tip of Tinharé, one of the islands of Costa de Dendê, which in turn, is located between the Bahian Reconcavo and the Rio de Contas.

Coconut green in a blue sky

Coconut palms protrude over the old fort area.

The second beach is right next door but it has little to do with the previous one. It is, by far, the most famous and best equipped of the five, which, for the unyielding followers of ecology, could be dispensed with.

Early in the morning, its extensive beach becomes a field for various types of sports and arts: football, footvolley, volleyball, frescobol (aka beach tennis), capoeira and so on. Or just and alone in a retreat where sunbathers soak up the tropical heat on rental chairs and sun loungers.

The Always Lively Muvuca of Second Beach

If, during the day, Monday is busy, after dark, little or nothing changes. At that time, bars and clubs are getting ready to host the “muvuca”, a kind of intense, noisy and international party that often only ends at dawn.

waiting for the sunsetUntil around XNUMX pm, the guests gather in the bars and restaurants in the center of the village, lively around the caipirinhas and cocktails. Sooner or later, the first spots of live music appear there. Euphoria is generalized with everyone dancing and singing the hits of the moment.

On one of the days we dedicated to the Morro, around eleven, we joined one of these migrations to “little Ibiza” where the track almost always opens with mobilizing introductions shouted by the DJ's and MC's on duty: “The night will be boooooooooo !”

More fruit and drinks stalls close a square drawn on the sand, like a encirclement. When tiredness and thirst are felt, there they are, ready to be planted, as if they were stands for re-establishing energy or, in the most drastic cases, for medical assistance.

Third and Fourth Beaches. The Morro de São Paulo Bathing Retreat

Almost without sand, the Terceira beach is left to offer some water activities, such as diving off the Caitá islet. But not only. Its inns welcome those who prefer to fall asleep lulled by the sound of the waves instead of the electronic roar coming from its predecessor beaches.

Four kilometers long and with a low tide that lends it many meters of extra sand and countless natural pools of warm water, Quarta Praia is less explored.

It gives visitors a sense of peace and freedom unique to the Morro.

Magnificent Atlantic Days

Bathers dive into the tropical sea off Morro de São Paulo.

The Quinta, in turn, is just a final stretch of the Fourth, about 1 km long. Even though the separation established by the mouth of the Vermelho River gives it a distinct scenario that is just as appealing.

Perhaps already fed up with the beach sequencing, Morro de São Paulo agencies and tourism chose to advertise it as Praia do Encanto.

Another type of appeal to the senses leads us to join a new pilgrimage, this time in the afternoon.

The Almost Sacred Sunset of Forte do Morro

Around five o'clock, we follow the flow of dozens of holidaymakers who follow the path parallel to the walls of the old Morro fortress and settle on what is left of the battlements.

old protection

The old fort, once essential for defending against attacks by enemy ships.

They come almost all equipped with cameras. A few of these twilight worshipers favor violas and jambes and enliven the strange ceremonial with classic and rejuvenated themes of samba and bossa-nova.

When the sun approaches the horizon line, the fort is already a stand that the public has overcrowded. It stands several meters above a translucent sea contained below by the ruin of the secular wall.

underwater life for two

Casal goes snorkeling in the natural pools in front of Morro do Farol.

In the past few days, the weather had left us mostly with clear skies. Again, in this delicious evening, the immaculate firmament takes on warm hues.

the contours of the island of Tinharé become sharper than ever.

Delicate transshipment

Nativo tries to get to his boat without getting his clothes wet.

Little by little, the sun takes shelter on the other side of the World. It leaves incandescent patterns above the horizon and a celestial aura that progresses from soft pink to lilac and, close to the Atlantic Ocean, turns a deep purple.

Tired of admiring the slow dip of the star, we had fun appreciating how, despite the massive participation of outsiders, most of the natives present there ignored the universalized romanticism of the moment.

fishing in balance

Friends fish by hand in the bar of the Red River.

Some take advantage of the crowd's sensory vulnerability to sell ice cream.

Others compete in three-for-three matches (with one-step goals) in an improvised field among haughty coconut trees.

Of the latter, the only comment alluding to the great star worthy of record was uttered, with undisguised bad temper, by an irascible “nursery” saturated with criticism:

“What do you want rapaizzz?! 'I'm taking it with this sun in my eyes! I didn't see the guy coming, no!”

Manaus, Brazil

The Jumps and Starts of the former World Rubber Capital

From 1879 to 1912, only the Amazon River basin generated the latex that, from one moment to another, the world needed and, out of nowhere, Manaus became one of the most advanced cities on the face of the Earth. But an English explorer took the tree to Southeast Asia and ruined pioneer production. Manaus once again proved its elasticity. It is the largest city in the Amazon and the seventh in Brazil.

Florianopolis, Brazil

The South Atlantic Azorean Legacy

During the XNUMXth century, thousands of Portuguese islanders pursued better lives in the southern confines of Brazil. In the villages they founded, traces of affinity with the origins abound.

Ilhabela, Brazil

Ilhabela: After Horror, the Atlantic Beauty

Ninety percent of the preserved Atlantic Forest, idyllic waterfalls and gentle, wild beaches live up to the name. But, if we go back in time, we also reveal the horrific historical facet of Ilhabela.
Ilhabela, Brazil

In Ilhabela, on the way to Bonete

A community of caiçaras descendants of pirates founded a village in a corner of Ilhabela. Despite the difficult access, Bonete was discovered and considered one of the ten best beaches in Brazil.
Margarita Island ao Mochima NP, Venezuela

Margarita Island to Mochima National Park: a very Caribbean Caribe

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Corn Islands - Islas del Maíz , Nicaragua

pure caribbean

Perfect tropical settings and genuine local life are the only luxuries available in the so-called Corn Islands or Corn Islands, an archipelago lost in the Central American confines of the Caribbean Sea.
Gili Islands, Indonesia

Gili: the Indonesian Islands the World Calls "Islands"

They are so humble that they are known by the term bahasa which means only islands. Despite being discreet, the Gili have become the favorite haunt of travelers who pass through Lombok or Bali.
Coron, Busuanga, Philippines

The Secret but Sunken Japanese Armada

In World War II, a Japanese fleet failed to hide off Busuanga and was sunk by US planes. Today, its underwater wreckage attract thousands of divers.
Maupiti, French Polynesia

A Society on the Margin

In the shadow of neighboring Bora Bora's near-global fame, Maupiti is remote, sparsely inhabited and even less developed. Its inhabitants feel abandoned but those who visit it are grateful for the abandonment.
Waikiki, OahuHawaii

The Japanese Invasion of Hawaii

Decades after the attack on Pearl Harbor and from the capitulation in World War II, the Japanese returned to Hawaii armed with millions of dollars. Waikiki, his favorite target, insists on surrendering.
Île-des-Pins, New Caledonia

The Island that Leaned against Paradise

In 1964, Katsura Morimura delighted the Japan with a turquoise novel set in Ouvéa. But the neighboring Île-des-Pins has taken over the title "The Nearest Island to Paradise" and thrills its visitors.
Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu

Divine Melanesia

Pedro Fernandes de Queirós thought he had discovered Terra Australis. The colony he proposed never materialized. Today, Espiritu Santo, the largest island in Vanuatu, is a kind of Eden.
Passo do Lontra, Miranda, Brazil

The Flooded Brazil of Passo do Lontra

We are on the western edge of Mato Grosso do Sul but bush, on these sides, is something else. In an extension of almost 200.000 km2, the Brazil it appears partially submerged, by rivers, streams, lakes and other waters dispersed in vast alluvial plains. Not even the panting heat of the dry season drains the life and biodiversity of Pantanal places and farms like the one that welcomed us on the banks of the Miranda River.
Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
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The High-Quality Life of Curitiba

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Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

The Swampy Freedom of Quilombo do Remanso

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A Gold Rush Legacy

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Brasilia, Brazil

Brasília: from Utopia to the Capital and Political Arena of Brazil

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Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

Lençóis da Bahia: not Even Diamonds Are Forever

In the XNUMXth century, Lençóis became the world's largest supplier of diamonds. But the gem trade did not last as expected. Today, the colonial architecture that he inherited is his most precious possession.
Itaipu Binational Hydroelectric Power Plant, Brazil

Itaipu Binational Hydroelectric Power Plant: Watt Fever

In 1974, thousands of Brazilians and Paraguayans flocked to the construction zone of the then largest dam in the world. 30 years after completion, Itaipu generates 90% of Paraguay's energy and 20% of Brazil's.
Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

On the eminence of the coast of Mozambique, the province of KwaZulu-Natal is home to an unexpected South Africa. Deserted beaches full of dunes, vast estuarine swamps and hills covered with fog fill this wild land also bathed by the Indian Ocean. It is shared by the subjects of the always proud Zulu nation and one of the most prolific and diverse fauna on the African continent.
Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Yaks
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit 11th: yak karkha a Thorong Phedi, Nepal

Arrival to the Foot of the Canyon

In just over 6km, we climbed from 4018m to 4450m, at the base of Thorong La canyon. Along the way, we questioned if what we felt were the first problems of Altitude Evil. It was never more than a false alarm.
Engravings, Karnak Temple, Luxor, Egypt
Architecture & Design
luxor, Egypt

From Luxor to Thebes: Journey to Ancient Egypt

Thebes was raised as the new supreme capital of the Egyptian Empire, the seat of Amon, the God of Gods. Modern Luxor inherited the Temple of Karnak and its sumptuousness. Between one and the other flow the sacred Nile and millennia of dazzling history.
Salto Angel, Rio that falls from the sky, Angel Falls, PN Canaima, Venezuela
PN Canaima, Venezuela

Kerepakupai, Salto Angel: The River that Falls from Heaven

In 1937, Jimmy Angel landed a light aircraft on a plateau lost in the Venezuelan jungle. The American adventurer did not find gold but he conquered the baptism of the longest waterfall on the face of the Earth
good buddhist advice
Ceremonies and Festivities
Chiang Mai, Thailand

300 Wats of Spiritual and Cultural Energy

Thais call every Buddhist temple wat and their northern capital has them in obvious abundance. Delivered to successive events held between shrines, Chiang Mai is never quite disconnected.
Yucatan Peninsula, Mérida City, Mexico, Cabildo
Mérida, Mexico

The Most Exuberant of Meridas

In 25 BC, the Romans founded Emerita Augusta, capital of Lusitania. The Spanish expansion generated three other Méridas in the world. Of the four, the Yucatan capital is the most colorful and lively, resplendent with Hispanic colonial heritage and multi-ethnic life.
Cocoa, Chocolate, Sao Tome Principe, Agua Izé farm
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Cocoa Roças, Corallo and the Chocolate Factory

At the beginning of the century. In the XNUMXth century, São Tomé and Príncipe generated more cocoa than any other territory. Thanks to the dedication of some entrepreneurs, production survives and the two islands taste like the best chocolate.
Hungduan, Philippines

Country Style Philippines

The GI's left with the end of World War II, but the music from the interior of the USA that they heard still enlivens the Cordillera de Luzon. It's by tricycle and at your own pace that we visit the Hungduan rice terraces.
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
Faithful light candles, Milarepa Grotto temple, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Annapurna Circuit: 9th Manang to Milarepa Cave, Nepal

A Walk between Acclimatization and Pilgrimage

In full Annapurna Circuit, we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). we still need acclimatize to the higher stretches that followed, we inaugurated an equally spiritual journey to a Nepalese cave of Milarepa (4000m), the refuge of a siddha (sage) and Buddhist saint.
Vietnamese queue

Nha Trang-Doc Let, Vietnam

The Salt of the Vietnamese Land

In search of attractive coastlines in old Indochina, we become disillusioned with the roughness of Nha Trang's bathing area. And it is in the feminine and exotic work of the Hon Khoi salt flats that we find a more pleasant Vietnam.

Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

life outside

Hué, Communist City, Imperial Vietnam, Imperial Communism
Hue, Vietnam

The Red Heritage of Imperial Vietnam

It suffered the worst hardships of the Vietnam War and was despised by the Vietcong due to the feudal past. The national-communist flags fly over its walls but Hué regains its splendor.
Vanuatu, Cruise in Wala
Wala, Vanuatu

Cruise ship in Sight, the Fair Settles In

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Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
Winter White
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
shadow vs light
Kyoto, Japan

The Kyoto Temple Reborn from the Ashes

The Golden Pavilion has been spared destruction several times throughout history, including that of US-dropped bombs, but it did not withstand the mental disturbance of Hayashi Yoken. When we admired him, he looked like never before.
Cove, Big Sur, California, United States
Big Sur, USA

The Coast of All Refuges

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Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
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A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Merida to Los Nevados borders of the Andes, Venezuela
Natural Parks
Mérida, Venezuela

Merida to Los Nevados: in the Andean Ends of Venezuela

In the 40s and 50s, Venezuela attracted 400 Portuguese but only half stayed in Caracas. In Mérida, we find places more similar to the origins and the eccentric ice cream parlor of an immigrant portista.
Semeru (far) and Bromo volcanoes in Java, Indonesia
UNESCO World Heritage
Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park Indonesia

The Volcanic Sea of ​​Java

The gigantic Tengger caldera rises 2000m in the heart of a sandy expanse of east Java. From it project the highest mountain of this Indonesian island, the Semeru, and several other volcanoes. From the fertility and clemency of this sublime as well as Dantesque setting, one of the few Hindu communities that resisted the Muslim predominance around, thrives.
Couple visiting Mikhaylovskoe, village where writer Alexander Pushkin had a home
Saint Petersburg e Mikhaylovkoe, Russia

The Writer Who Succumbed to His Own Plot

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Mangrove between Ibo and Quirimba Island-Mozambique
Ibo Island a Quirimba IslandMozambique

Ibo to Quirimba with the Tide

For centuries, the natives have traveled in and out of the mangrove between the island of Ibo and Quirimba, in the time that the overwhelming return trip from the Indian Ocean grants them. Discovering the region, intrigued by the eccentricity of the route, we follow its amphibious steps.
Pemba, Mozambique, Capital of Cabo Delgado, from Porto Amélia to Porto de Abrigo, Paquitequete
Pemba, Mozambique

From Porto Amélia to the Shelter Port of Mozambique

In July 2017, we visited Pemba. Two months later, the first attack took place on Mocímboa da Praia. Nor then do we dare to imagine that the tropical and sunny capital of Cabo Delgado would become the salvation of thousands of Mozambicans fleeing a terrifying jihadism.
Train Kuranda train, Cairns, Queensland, Australia
On Rails
Cairns-Kuranda, Australia

Train to the Middle of the Jungle

Built out of Cairns to save miners isolated in the rainforest from starvation by flooding, the Kuranda Railway eventually became the livelihood of hundreds of alternative Aussies.
Ijen Volcano, Slaves of Sulfur, Java, Indonesia
Ijen volcano, Indonesia

The Ijen Volcano Sulphur Slaves

Hundreds of Javanese surrender to the Ijen volcano where they are consumed by poisonous gases and loads that deform their shoulders. Each turn earns them less than €30 but everyone is grateful for their martyrdom.
Saksun, Faroe Islands, Streymoy, warning
Daily life
Saksun, streymoyFaroe Islands

The Faroese Village That Doesn't Want to be Disneyland

Saksun is one of several stunning small villages in the Faroe Islands that more and more outsiders visit. It is distinguished by the aversion to tourists of its main rural owner, author of repeated antipathies and attacks against the invaders of his land.
PN Tortuguero, Costa Rica, public boat
Tortuguero NP, Costa Rica

The Flooded Costa Rica of Tortuguero

The Caribbean Sea and the basins of several rivers bathe the northeast of the Tica nation, one of the wettest and richest areas in flora and fauna in Central America. Named after the green turtles nest in its black sands, Tortuguero stretches inland for 312 km.2 of stunning aquatic jungle.
Full Dog Mushing
Scenic Flights
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.