Montezuma, Costa Rica

Back to the Tropical Arms of Montezuma

Ferry "Drum"
Fishermen sail a small boat in front of the ferry "Tambor"
Ferry View
Passengers from the "Tambor" ferry see another one sailing in the Gulf of Nicoya.
Bather crosses the water curtain of the Montezuma waterfall,
Tiger heron
Tiger Egret watches fish on the waterfront of the Nicolas Wessberg Absolute National Reserve.
warm tones
A young bather photographs the sunset, on a rocky stretch of the Montezuma coast.
Synchronized Diving
Pelicans dive into the sea off Malpaís, west of Montezuma.
The Jungle of Montezuma
Aerial view of the Montezuma jungle and the Pacific Ocean coastline.
A reservation. absolute
Irregular trail of the Nicolas Wessberg Absolute Reserve.
Curious Capuchin
Capuchin monkey examines hikers crossing its territory.
jump from the top
Young bathers practice jumping from the upper level of the Montezuma waterfall.
twilight surfers
Surfers leave the low sea of ​​Playa Malpais.
drop in water
The Montezuma waterfall, the main river alternative to the beaches off the town.
colored stone
Aerial view of Playa Colorada, furrowed by a stream.
Golden Montezuma
Montezuma Cove golden at sunset.
It's been 18 years since we were dazzled by this one of Costa Rica's blessed coastlines. Just two months ago, we found him again. As cozy as we had known it.

It's a whole traveling adulthood.

In nearly two decades of our terrestrial wandering, much of the Tica nation has modernized without a backward step. We left the rucksack pure and hard that made us reach everywhere.

In Montezuma, except that the road from the port of Paquera is now paved, little or nothing has changed.

We landed on the pier in a rented car, no longer on the bus overflowing with sweaty and motivated teenagers. We cover the 40 km separating the port of Montezuma in less than the expected time and at sunset.

We couldn't explain for sure why we didn't remember the scenarios surrounding the road.

The most certain is, to date, the “Drum” – the ferry that still connects the city of Puntarenas to Paquera – arrived later or was late.

Montezuma and Malpaís, best beaches in Costa Rica, Ferry "Tambor", Puntarenas

Fishermen sail a small boat in front of the ferry “Tambor”

Flirting Montezuma through Undulating Meadows, Golden by Sunset

And, in agreement, the bus has already made the trip at night. We wouldn't be surprised if the windows were too dark, preventing us from enjoying the landscape. It certainly wouldn't be the first.

What we do know is that the last rays of the sun, almost parallel to the surface of the Nicoya Peninsula, grazed the pastures. Livestock farmers and they painted us with an almost magical charm, full, as we saw them, with verdant ridges, dotted with shade trees and white cebu cows.

We also know that, in that grassy wonder, we rejected the Calle Pura Vida shortcut, which instead bumped into the semi-urban junction of Gollo Cobano.

From there, we descend towards the coast along a secondary road as precarious and bumpy as those of twenty years ago.

We settled in the vacation villa of Rose Marie and Glen, a couple from the USA with whom, in our spare time from our always intense photographic discovery, we socialized.

Even before we confirm it, the duo praises Montezuma's Zen credits again. They also tell us about neighboring places that we should take advantage of to discover.

That's what we do.

Rediscovering the Tropical Shelter of Montezuma

More mobile than in 2003, we point to the west coast of the Nicoya Peninsula.

We enter Playa Malpaís and its vast sand, quite different from those of Montezuma, and there we admire the delight shared by the expatriate surfing community.

Montezuma and Malpais, Costa Rica's best beaches, surfers

Surfers leave the low sea of ​​Playa Malpais.

Surfing waves is something that Montezuma cannot offer. This gap only makes it quieter.

Tired of the wet days in Monteverde, at the top of the mountain range that separates the Caribbean side of Costa Rica from the Pacific, we divided the inaugural day at the beach between a beach break and occasional and providential photos.

We didn't return home until dusk. Finally, we gave in to the anxiety of reunion.

we cross the town of Montezuma that we found on chemical paper from what we kept in memory.

Young bathers rehearse jumping from the upper level of the Montezuma waterfall, last photo

A young bather photographs the sunset, on a rocky stretch of the Montezuma coast.

From the top of a cliff crowned by a white-blue-red flag of Costa Rica, we peeked at the nearest cove, the first in a blessed sequence that we remembered having trodden to exhaustion.

Soon, it gets dark, culminating in a lush twilight torn by the soaring overhead of successive squads of pelicans.

Malcountry, Montezuma, Costa Rica

Pelicans dive into the sea off Malpaís, west of Montezuma.

The following dawn reveals a new sunny and dry day, characteristic of the Nicoya Peninsula.

Without further detours, we return to the delicious rediscovery of Montezuma.

Montezuma Waterfall. The River Alternative to Stunning Beaches

At the entrance of the pueblo, there is a fork where the right lane turns off towards the famous Cabo Blanco.

We remembered that a mere few hundred meters along this unpaved road, a trail led to a large waterfall, a rush from the river that gives the village its name.

We followed its bed, full of ups and downs, slippery passages and others so precarious that they were equipped with support ropes.

A mile later, we hear the refreshing sound of the jump, following the long rainy season in Central America, still bulky. There too, life had stopped in time.

Montezuma and Malpais, Costa Rica's best beaches

The Montezuma waterfall, the main river alternative to the beaches off the town.

Despite the late hour, the surrounding jungle amphitheater was full of young people devoted to the pleasures of Nature, including the sensory stimuli of some of its herb, consumed in large quantities in those parts, which explains that, as a satire, Montezuma continue to be known as Montefuma.

In this treat, boys court girls. Girls court boys. As has always been the case and, as such, in 2003, the first ones do everything they can to impress them and the audience in general.

In these nearly two decades, accidents have accumulated. Not so, any authority dared to prohibit the acrobatics.

Cataract, Montezuma, Costa Rica

Bather crosses the water curtain of the Montezuma waterfall,

Somersaults and some Banal, Risky Stunts of Life

in a good way look, a message on an aged board beautified by sun and rain pretends to fulfill its role. Straight ahead, dives follow, some more acrobatic than others.

With our bath taken, we agreed to register them. In the first pass through Montezuma, we had watched and photographed on slide the dive of the dives, starring a fearless young man who had launched himself headlong, almost from the top of the 24 meters in height.

We have to confess that, despite the risk of tragedy, we had hope that the moment would be repeated.

Instead, smaller jumps followed, some of them insulting in the face of this historic culmination, of young men diving in and holding their noses. And one or two with some included somersault but executed from a few meters high.

That's how the morning passed when, out of nowhere, a thin, white teenager with curly hair, who was limited to appreciating the achievements of the rest, decides to impress the girls he had been talking to and outdo them all.

More than that. Jesus, that's how the native of Montezuma was called, he had already agreed that we were recording the acrobatics and he decided to go on forever.

Come to us and tell us with a wink: “I'm going to do a special jump, just for you. Prepare to fire.”

From there, it goes around the waterfall and ascends it almost halfway. He cleans a small slab of rock with his hands. Go back down.

It gains balance, projects itself from that base against the wall of the waterfall and, with renewed momentum, jumps into the depths of the lake.

Montezuma and Malpais, Costa Rica's best beaches, waterfall

Young bathers practice jumping from the upper level of the Montezuma waterfall.

Then he comes to check on how he did.

“Nice number wasn't it?? You have to send me this, OK?” and give us your phone number.

Montezuma's Wild and Lush Beaches

Feats like yours don't just happen. Later in the afternoon, we were already walking along the Montezuma coves when we saw Jesus again.

He trained in jumps and similar acrobatics in a fortified rock that the low tide had left uncovered.

Montezuma and Malpais, Costa Rica's best beaches, capuchin monkey

Capuchin monkey examines hikers crossing its territory.

We crossed the entire beach of Montezuma.

On the way to the next, we are distracted by a bunch of capuchin monkeys entertained by one of their frequent and shrill clashes.

Next is the tiny bay of Piedra Colorada, crossed by a cold stream that, as we remembered, furrowed the black sand.

Montezuma and Malpais, Costa Rica's best beaches, Playa Pedra Colorada

Aerial view of Playa Colorada, furrowed by a stream.

This cove was once frequented by one Jake, a local artist who, morning after morning, used to leave a stone sculpture in balance there.

Your habit has spawned a tradition. The reason why we found an entire sector of the beach full of these sculptures.

Young families of foreigners picnic in the shade of coconut trees, where the stream meets the sand. From time to time, they dive into the calm sea of ​​the cove and alternate between freshwater and saltwater bathing.

Playa de la Piedra Colorada overlooks one of Costa Rica's countless protected natural strongholds, accessible by a path at first steep and in which a silence and a sacred chlorophyll atmosphere prevails.

Montezuma and Malpaís, Costa Rica's best beaches, Nicolas Wessberg reserve trail

Irregular trail of the Nicolas Wessberg Absolute Reserve.

The Protected Coastal Jungle of the Wessberg Reserve

At the entrance, a sign identifies you as Green Sueño and to the place of estate once inhabited by the couple Nicolas Wessberg and Karen Morgensen, honored in 1994 with the creation of the Wessberg Absolute National Reserve.

Nicolas, or Olaf, as his family treated him, and his wife were staunch supporters of Costa Rica's ecosystems. Nicolas perished, in fact, a victim of this posture.

In the 60s, the couple visited the neighboring area of ​​Cabo Blanco.

He came across a vast area of ​​newly cut forest.

They decided to recover it and turn it into a nature reserve, for which Nicolas sought to convince the Costa Rican government and gather international funds to facilitate such a mission.

Montezuma and Malpais, Costa Rica's best beaches, aerial view of Montezuma

Aerial view of the Montezuma jungle and the Pacific Ocean coastline.

It turned out to be successful.

Soon, the couple became interested in protecting another unique Costa Rican wilderness, Corcovado.

In 1975, Nicolas went there with the aim of writing a report that would help ensure the same protection he had obtained for Cabo Blanco.

However, he could not keep the promise he had made to his wife that he would return for her birthday.

The most accepted version of his tragedy is that he was killed by a local guide at the behest of natives of the region who wanted to enrich themselves with the natural resources of the area and feared that it would be declared a national park.

In the Wessberg Absolute National Reserve, in photographic pursuit of a lone pelican, we spent half an hour focusing on a less elusive tiger heron.

Montezuma and Malpaís, Costa Rica's best beaches, Tiger Egret

Tiger Egret watches fish on the waterfront of the Nicolas Wessberg Absolute National Reserve.

To the sound of some grandiose classical music, the resident of a lost cabin helped us to evoke the ecological spirits of Olaf and Karen.

The melodies that entertained him contributed to make us feel even more strengthened the green and alternative spirituality of the elusive Montezuma.

Montezuma and Malpais, Costa Rica's best beaches, Ocaso

Montezuma Cove golden at sunset.

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Tortuguero NP, Costa Rica

The Flooded Costa Rica of Tortuguero

The Caribbean Sea and the basins of several rivers bathe the northeast of the Tica nation, one of the wettest and richest areas in flora and fauna in Central America. Named after the green turtles nest in its black sands, Tortuguero stretches inland for 312 km.2 of stunning aquatic jungle.
Tortuguero NP, Costa Rica

Tortuguero: From the Flooded Jungle to the Caribbean Sea

After two days of impasse due to torrential rain, we set out to discover the Tortuguero National Park. Channel after channel, we marvel at the natural richness and exuberance of this Costa Rican fluvial marine ecosystem.
PN Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica

Costa Rica's Little-Big National Park

The reasons for the under 28 are well known national parks Costa Ricans have become the most popular. The fauna and flora of PN Manuel António proliferate in a tiny and eccentric patch of jungle. As if that wasn't enough, it is limited to four of the best typical beaches.
miravalles, Costa Rica

The volcano that Miravalles

At 2023 meters, the Miravalles stands out in northern Costa Rica, high above a range of pairs that includes La Giganta, Tenório, Espiritu Santo, Santa Maria, Rincón de La Vieja and Orosi. Inactive with respect to eruptions, it feeds a prolific geothermal field that warms the lives of Costa Ricans in its shadow.
Caño Negro, Costa Rica

A Life of Angling among the Wildlife

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Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

On the world map, south of the famous brazilian wetland, a little-known flooded region appears, but almost as vast and rich in biodiversity. the Guarani expression Y bera defines it as “shining waters”. The adjective fits more than its strong luminance.
Passo do Lontra, Miranda, Brazil

The Flooded Brazil of Passo do Lontra

We are on the western edge of Mato Grosso do Sul but bush, on these sides, is something else. In an extension of almost 200.000 km2, the Brazil it appears partially submerged, by rivers, streams, lakes and other waters dispersed in vast alluvial plains. Not even the panting heat of the dry season drains the life and biodiversity of Pantanal places and farms like the one that welcomed us on the banks of the Miranda River.
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A Wetland in the Far East of India

The Maguri Bill occupies an amphibious area in the Assamese vicinity of the river Brahmaputra. It is praised as an incredible habitat especially for birds. When we navigate it in gondola mode, we are faced with much (but much) more life than just the asada.
Okavango Delta, Botswana

Not all rivers reach the sea

Third longest river in southern Africa, the Okavango rises in the Angolan Bié plateau and runs 1600km to the southeast. It gets lost in the Kalahari Desert where it irrigates a dazzling wetland teeming with wildlife.
Cahuita, Costa Rica

Dreadlocked Costa Rica

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Monteverde, Costa Rica

The Ecological Refuge the Quakers Bequeathed the World

Disillusioned with the US military propensity, a group of 44 Quakers migrated to Costa Rica, the nation that had abolished the army. Farmers, cattle raisers, became conservationists. They made possible one of the most revered natural strongholds in Central America.
Tortuguero NP, Costa Rica

A Night at the Nursery of Tortuguero

The name of the Tortuguero region has an obvious and ancient reason. Turtles from the Atlantic and the Caribbean Sea have long flocked to the black sand beaches of its narrow coastline to spawn. On one of the nights we spent in Tortuguero we watched their frenzied births.
Fogón de Lola Costa Rica

The Flavor of Costa Rica of El Fogón de Lola

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Cahuita, Costa Rica

An Adult Return to Cahuita

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Gandoca-Manzanillo (Wildlife Refuge), Costa Rica

The Caribbean Hideaway of Gandoca-Manzanillo

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Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

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Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Traditional houses, Bergen, Norway.
Architecture & Design
Bergen, Norway

The Great Hanseatic Port of Norway

Already populated in the early 1830th century, Bergen became the capital, monopolized northern Norwegian commerce and, until XNUMX, remained one of the largest cities in Scandinavia. Today, Oslo leads the nation. Bergen continues to stand out for its architectural, urban and historical exuberance.
Full Dog Mushing
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

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Kente Festival Agotime, Ghana, gold
Ceremonies and Festivities
Kumasi to Kpetoe, Ghana

A Celebration-Trip of the Ghanian Fashion

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Hué, Communist City, Imperial Vietnam, Imperial Communism
Hue, Vietnam

The Red Heritage of Imperial Vietnam

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Singapore Asian Capital Food, Basmati Bismi

The Asian Food Capital

There were 4 ethnic groups in Singapore, each with its own culinary tradition. Added to this was the influence of thousands of immigrants and expatriates on an island with half the area of ​​London. It was the nation with the greatest gastronomic diversity in the Orient.
Horseback riding in shades of gold
El Calafate, Argentina

The New Gauchos of Patagonia

Around El Calafate, instead of the usual shepherds on horseback, we come across gauchos equestrian breeders and others who exhibit, to the delight of visitors, the traditional life of the golden pampas.
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
Kayaking on Lake Sinclair, Cradle Mountain - Lake Sinclair National Park, Tasmania, Australia
Discovering tassie, Part 4 - Devonport to Strahan, Australia

Through the Tasmanian Wild West

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Impressions Lijiang Show, Yangshuo, China, Red Enthusiasm
Lijiang e Yangshuo, China

An Impressive China

One of the most respected Asian filmmakers, Zhang Yimou dedicated himself to large outdoor productions and co-authored the media ceremonies of the Beijing OG. But Yimou is also responsible for “Impressions”, a series of no less controversial stagings with stages in emblematic places.
Portfolio, Got2Globe, Best Images, Photography, Images, Cleopatra, Dioscorides, Delos, Greece
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

The Earthly and the Celestial

Ptolemaic Egypt, Edfu to Kom Ombo, Nile above, guide explains hieroglyphics
Edfu to Kom Ombo, Egypt

Up the River Nile, through the Upper Ptolemaic Egypt

Having accomplished the unmissable embassy to Luxor, to old Thebes and to the Valley of the Kings, we proceed against the current of the Nile. In Edfu and Kom Ombo, we surrender to the historic magnificence bequeathed by successive Ptolemy monarchs.
Palm trees of San Cristobal de La Laguna, Tenerife, Canary Islands
Tenerife, Canary Islands

East of White Mountain Island

The almost triangular Tenerife has its center dominated by the majestic volcano Teide. At its eastern end, there is another rugged domain, even so, the place of the island's capital and other unavoidable villages, with mysterious forests and incredible abrupt coastlines.
Oulu Finland, Passage of Time
Winter White
Oulu, Finland

Oulu: an Ode to Winter

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José Saramago in Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain, Glorieta de Saramago
Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

José Saramago's Basalt Raft

In 1993, frustrated by the Portuguese government's disregard for his work “The Gospel According to Jesus Christ”, Saramago moved with his wife Pilar del Río to Lanzarote. Back on this somewhat extraterrestrial Canary Island, we visited his home. And the refuge from the portuguese censorship that haunted the writer.
St. Trinity Church, Kazbegi, Georgia, Caucasus
Kazbegi, Georgia

God in the Caucasus Heights

In the 4000th century, Orthodox religious took their inspiration from a hermitage that a monk had erected at an altitude of 5047 m and perched a church between the summit of Mount Kazbek (XNUMXm) and the village at the foot. More and more visitors flock to these mystical stops on the edge of Russia. Like them, to get there, we submit to the whims of the reckless Georgia Military Road.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Rhinoceros, PN Kaziranga, Assam, India
Natural Parks
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
The Dominican Republic Balnear de Barahona, Balneario Los Patos
UNESCO World Heritage
Barahona, Dominican Republic

The Bathing Dominican Republic of Barahona

Saturday after Saturday, the southwest corner of the Dominican Republic goes into decompression mode. Little by little, its seductive beaches and lagoons welcome a tide of euphoric people who indulge in a peculiar rumbear amphibian.
aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
Tobago, Pigeon Point, Scarborough, Pontoon
Scarborough a Pigeon Point, Tobago

Probing the Capital Tobago

From the walled heights of Fort King George, to the threshold of Pigeon Point, southwest Tobago around the capital Scarborough reveals unrivaled controversial tropics.
Tawang Monastery, Arunachal Pradesh, India
Tawang, India

The Mystic Valley of Deep Discord

On the northern edge of the Indian province of Arunachal Pradesh, Tawang is home to dramatic mountain scenery, ethnic Mompa villages and majestic Buddhist monasteries. Even if Chinese rivals have not passed him since 1962, Beijing look at this domain as part of your Tibet. Accordingly, religiosity and spiritualism there have long shared with a strong militarism.
Train Fianarantsoa to Manakara, Malagasy TGV, locomotive
On Rails
Fianarantsoa-Manakara, Madagascar

On board the Malagasy TGV

We depart Fianarantsoa at 7a.m. It wasn't until 3am the following morning that we completed the 170km to Manakara. The natives call this almost secular train Train Great Vibrations. During the long journey, we felt, very strongly, those of the heart of Madagascar.
Buffaloes, Marajo Island, Brazil, Soure police buffaloes
Marajó Island, Brazil

The Buffalo Island

A vessel that transported buffaloes from the India it will have sunk at the mouth of the Amazon River. Today, the island of Marajó that hosted them has one of the largest herds in the world and Brazil is no longer without these bovine animals.
Casario, uptown, Fianarantsoa, ​​Madagascar
Daily life
Fianarantsoa, Madagascar

The Malagasy City of Good Education

Fianarantsoa was founded in 1831 by Ranavalona Iª, a queen of the then predominant Merina ethnic group. Ranavalona Iª was seen by European contemporaries as isolationist, tyrant and cruel. The monarch's reputation aside, when we enter it, its old southern capital remains as the academic, intellectual and religious center of Madagascar.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.