Chandor, Goa, India

A True Goan-Portuguese House


the great manor
The long façade of Casa Menezes Bragança, one of the largest in Chandor and Goa in general.
the matriarch
Dª A?urea, the matriarch of the Braganc?a Pereira family.
Old Goan Fashion
One of the various halls of Casa Bragança-Pereira.
Family album
Collection of family memorabilia on an old dressing table.
seat of love
A love seat, one of the many historical decorative elements of the Menezes-Bragança house.
private chapel
The chapel of the Menezes-Bragança house, where the family claims to keep a nail of St. Francis de Xavier.
The Entry and the Frontier
Entrance and geometric means of the The long façade of Casa Menezes Bragança, where the current division between the two families that occupy it begins.
The future
Descendants Family Braganc?a Pereira in front of the church of Chandor.
The Bragança Pereira
Portrait of part of the Bragança Pereira family, in their house in Chandor.
Francisco Xavier Bragança
The portrait of Francisco Xavier Braganc?a, the most outstanding of the Bragança family elders.
Great Hall
One of the various halls of Casa Menezes Braganc?a, decorated with a mixture of colonial and Goan elements.
A mansion with Portuguese architectural influence, Casa Menezes Bragança, stands out from the houses of Chandor, in Goa. It forms a legacy of one of the most powerful families in the former province. Both from its rise in a strategic alliance with the Portuguese administration and from the later Goan nationalism.

The first impression we make of Casa Menezes Bragança is that the term casa it was far from doing him justice.

From the edge of a green lawned garden, we find ourselves facing the facade of a portentous tropical manor house, with two floors covered with an eave and a roof, both made of weathered Portuguese tile.

If, as expected of a country house, the height is measured, its length amazes us. On the first floor alone, we have twelve tall, cut-out windows, each with its own ocher balcony to match the tiles.

On the ground floor, many more, smaller, closed by shutters in a more Hindu than Portuguese way.

Casa Menezes Braganca, Chandor, Goa, India

The long façade of Casa Menezes Bragança, one of the largest in Chandor and Goa in general.

We must also say that we could only admire a segment stretched between a trio of coconut trees and an Asian pine tree, all taller than the top of the roof. We walked a little further.

We noticed that the pine tree hid the service entrance, located in the middle of the symmetrical façade of the building, which is to say that, from the entrance onwards, the windows and everything else were repeated.

The interlocutor's look and tone make us apprehensive. The shot, in particular, disarms us. For a short time.

We didn't want to accept that we had covered that 20km (not counting the distance to Portugal) in vain. Therefore, we respond with all the arguments and more, from nationality to professional purpose.

When the lady maintains her block, we pulled a higher trump card up her sleeve: if the problem was that she didn't have instructions to make an exception, then let us talk to the owner.

Two minutes later, somewhat annoyed, Dª Judite hands us a paper with a phone number. There was no cell phone network anywhere in the house, so we told him that we would call from outside and return to communicate the result of the call.

We installed ourselves in an extension of the mansion, between the end of the garden and the Church of Chandor. For a good half-hour, either we can't call due to lack of network or no one answers. In a last and desperate attempt, finally, the call is answered by Aida Menezes Bragança. He was telling us about Bangalore.

We repeat the arguments already explained to Dª Judite. We add a few more. The interlocutor became aware of the importance we gave to our visit and work and agreed. “Wait just ten minutes for me to call home and talk to Dª Judite. Then go upstairs and take the photos you need.”

We return. Guided by a housekeeper, we investigate the successive rooms and halls, one of them a ballroom, in any case, with centuries-old fillings intact: Belgian and Venetian crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceiling.

Hall, Casa Menezes Bragança-Chandor-Goa-India

One of the various halls of Casa Menezes Bragança, decorated with a mixture of colonial and Goan elements.

Large tables, chairs and armchairs, rosewood and teak dressing tables, shelves from one of the largest private libraries in Goa with around 5000 books in various languages. Canapés, palanquins and love seats.

Love seat, Casa Menezes Bragança, Chandor, Goa, India

A love seat, one of the many historical decorative elements of the Menezes-Bragança house.

Desks, knickknacks, Macao porcelain, an East India Company dinner service and even an old man coconut-do-sea brought from Seychelles they subsisted, arranged in the style of a home museum, on floors made of large planks or tiled floors with very distinct patterns, forming independent sub-spaces.

Dozens of family photos and some paintings mirrored the family tree of the residents and part of the prolific history of the family and Casa Menezes Bragança.

Before the arrival of Vasco da Gama to Goa, like almost all Goans, the ancestors of the Bragança were Hindus, one of the most powerful in the region. They belonged to the superior Brahmin caste and were part of the pacayat (county) of Chandrapur, the capital of Goa in the XNUMXth to XNUMXth centuries. At that time, they used the surname Desai.

After the Portuguese domination, from 1542, the Jesuit mission of São Francisco de Xavier, later also the Inquisition, determined the destruction of the Hindu temples. The Desai were forced to adhere to Christianity, to integrate Portuguese society and to emulate its aristocratic ways.

Due to the economic, intellectual and social supremacy they already had, during the 300 years that followed, some Desai occupied top positions in the Portuguese administration.

Pleased with the contribution of this family and in justice for the dominant position they occupied, the Portuguese gave them the name of the last Royal House, then written as Braganza. The Casa Menezes Bragança de Chandor was built in the XNUMXth century and increased and improved in three successive phases, over three hundred years.

Francisco Xavier Bragança, Casa Menezes Bragança, Chandor, Goa, India

The portrait of Francisco Xavier Bragança, the most outstanding of the Bragança family elders.

In the XNUMXth century, the Braganças reached their apex. Francisco Xavier Bragança, lawyer, Goan aristocrat, owner of rice and coconut plantations installed in lands forfeited by the Portuguese Crown, received from Fernando II and Maria II, kings of Portugal the titles of knighthood and the royal coat of arms from the Lisbon Council.

António Elzário Sant' Anna Pereira, cousin of Francisco Xavier, was awarded the same title. From the XNUMXth century onwards, the architectural transformation of the mansion and its decoration was mainly due to the pomp and pomp in which these two personalities moved.

Reaching the last decade of the XNUMXth century, Francisco Xavier Bragança died. Without children, he named his first grandson Luís Menezes de Bragança as heir. Luís Menezes de Bragança also revealed himself to be literate and influential and, the more educated, the more active in contesting Portuguese colonial rule.

Associated with other intellectual figures, he founded the first Portuguese-language newspaper in Goa, “The Herald”. Shortly thereafter, he created his own periodical: “O Debate” and a biweekly called “Pracasha”. In all three titles, but not only, he made public the criticisms he reserved for the Portuguese colonial regime. From then on, nothing would be the same.

The Bragança family broke up. The house gave rise to two, each belonging to two sister heirs of the Braganças, occupying opposite wings of the palace.

Casa Menezes Braganca, Chandor, Goa, India

Entrance and geometric middle of Casa Menezes Bragança, where the current division between the two families that occupy it begins.

We left Menezes Bragança's side without even seeing Dª Judite again, too confused with her judicial affairs. We said goodbye and returned to the atrium where the mansion was divided. We rang the bell next door.

A maid from the Bragança-Pereira house welcomes us, who hurried to call one of the owner's children. Armando, our guide, spoke little Portuguese: “I don't speak, but my mother does. She is always happy to have Portuguese visitors. I'll get her.”

Dª Áurea Bragança Pereira, Casa Menezes Bragança, Chandor, Goa, India

Dª Áurea, the matriarch of the Bragança Pereira family.

After a few minutes, Dª Áurea Bragança Pereira, emerged from the confines of a room. Áurea was the only survivor of the 14th generation of the Braganças. Since 1948, he had lived in the wing of the mansion he had inherited with fifteen descendants and consorts.

Conversation starts, we agreed to take a picture of the family present. However, the old woman confesses to be more fatigued than usual. Armando resumes the tour.

It takes us to the chapel and to a somewhat surreal secret of the house. Alongside the countless objects around, the chapel preserved what is said to be a nail of Saint Francis de Xavier, a keratin removed from the remaining body that lies in the Basilica of Bom Jesus, in old goa.

Chapel, Casa Menezes Bragança, Chandor, Goa, India

The chapel of the Menezes-Bragança house, where the family claims to keep a nail of St. Francis de Xavier.

Four hundred and thirty-three years after the founding of the Portuguese colony of Goa, Salazar became prime minister of the newly imposed Portuguese republic, with constitutional promises of civil freedom and expression.

Accordingly, Menezes Bragança, already a member of the Portuguese parliament, proposed a motion to the Council that aimed at the self-determination of Goa. Salazar refuted it without appeal. He closed the Menezes de Bragança newspaper and ordered that its activities be monitored.

Salazar's intransigent posture generated a deep depression in Menezes that led to his death in 1938. Tristão de Bragança Cunha (1891-1958), Menezes Bragança's brother-in-law, followed in his footsteps until he became the Father of Goan Nationalism.

He founded the Goa National Congress Committee and published a pamphlet entitled Denationalization of Goa which criticized the Estado Novo for, among other sins, wanting to exterminate the use of the Konkani dialect. Both publications proved to be serious denunciators of Portuguese oppression.

At that time, Tristão de Bragança Cunha, Bertha de Menezes Bragança and other members of the Committee held meetings at Casa Menezes Bragança, where they frequently uttered the cry Jai Hind who praised the Victoria of India. Such meetings aroused the increasingly frequent and emasculating appearance of the Portuguese police.

Even so, the efforts of Bragança and followers sensitized several influential Indian politicians and independenceists to the Goan Question, among them Nehru, future minister of India.

India declared its independence from Great Britain in 1947. For the various reasons and controversies that the revered Nehru is still accused of, Goa remained in Portugal's possession until 1961, when the Indian army released it.

Just a year before the end of the British Raj, Tristão de Bragança Cunha was arrested and sentenced to eight years of imprisonment in the Fort of Peniche. His entire family was persecuted by the Portuguese authorities which led to his flight to Bangalore, the now technological capital of the state of Karnataka.

Tristão da Cunha returned to India in 1953 but died in exile in Bombay in 1958, just three years after the emancipation of Goa. When Aida returned to Casa Bragança, in 1961, only a few servants lived there.

Part of the Bragança-Pereira family, Casa Menezes Bragança, Chandor, Goa, India

Portrait of part of the Bragança Pereira family, in their house in Chandor.

Much of the most valuable stuff was gone and monsoon rains damaged the roof and part of the rooms. The Indian political reforms of 1962 took away from the Bragança the lands cultivated by the Portuguese crown who until then had ensured the manor's sustenance.

With little or no support from the Indian or Goan governments for the costly reconstruction and maintenance – only six men and women work on the Menezes Bragança side from Monday to Saturday – but aware of the historic value of the house, both families opened their doors to the public.

According to Dª Áurea, the Bragança-Pereira side has been accepting voluntary donations for over 50 years. The Menezes Bragança wing, during the 80s, charging fixed entrance fees.

As long as he only depends on Dª Áurea, his part of Casa Menezes Bragança, too full of emotions and memories, will never be sold.

Goa, India

The Last Gasp of the Goan Portugality

The prominent city of Goa already justified the title of “rome of the east” when, in the middle of the XNUMXth century, epidemics of malaria and cholera led to its abandonment. The New Goa (Pangim) for which it was exchanged became the administrative seat of Portuguese India but was annexed by the Indian Union of post-independence. In both, time and neglect are ailments that now make the Portuguese colonial legacy wither.
Goa, India

To Goa, Quickly and in Strength

A sudden longing for Indo-Portuguese tropical heritage makes us travel in various transports but almost non-stop, from Lisbon to the famous Anjuna beach. Only there, at great cost, were we able to rest.
Jaisalmer, India

The Life Withstanding in the Golden Fort of Jaisalmer

The Jaisalmer fortress was erected from 1156 onwards by order of Rawal Jaisal, ruler of a powerful clan from the now Indian reaches of the Thar Desert. More than eight centuries later, despite continued pressure from tourism, they share the vast and intricate interior of the last of India's inhabited forts, almost four thousand descendants of the original inhabitants.
Majuli Island, India

An Island in Countdown

Majuli is the largest river island in India and would still be one of the largest on Earth were it not for the erosion of the river Bramaputra that has been making it diminish for centuries. If, as feared, it is submerged within twenty years, more than an island, a truly mystical cultural and landscape stronghold of the Subcontinent will disappear.
Houses

Homes Sweet Homes

Few species are more social and gregarious than humans. Man tends to emulate other homes sweet homes in the world. Some of these houses are impressive.
Gangtok, India

An Hillside Life

Gangtok it is the capital of Sikkim, an ancient kingdom in the Himalayas section of the Silk Road, which became an Indian province in 1975. The city is balanced on a slope, facing Kanchenjunga, the third highest elevation in the world that many natives believe shelters a paradise valley of Immortality. Their steep and strenuous Buddhist existence aims, there, or elsewhere, to achieve it.
Meghalaya, India

The Bridges of the Peoples that Create Roots

The unpredictability of rivers in the wettest region on Earth never deterred the Khasi and the Jaintia. Faced with the abundance of trees elastic fig tree in their valleys, these ethnic groups got used to molding their branches and strains. From their time-lost tradition, they have bequeathed hundreds of dazzling root bridges to future generations.
Shillong, India

A Christmas Selfiestan at an India Christian Stronghold

December arrives. With a largely Christian population, the state of Meghalaya synchronizes its Nativity with that of the West and clashes with the overcrowded Hindu and Muslim subcontinent. Shillong, the capital, shines with faith, happiness, jingle bells and bright lighting. To dazzle Indian holidaymakers from other parts and creeds.
Guwahati, India

The City that Worships Kamakhya and the Fertility

Guwahati is the largest city in the state of Assam and in North East India. It is also one of the fastest growing in the world. For Hindus and devout believers in Tantra, it will be no coincidence that Kamakhya, the mother goddess of creation, is worshiped there.
Esteros del Iberá, Pantanal Argentina, Alligator
Safari
Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

On the world map, south of the famous brazilian wetland, a little-known flooded region appears, but almost as vast and rich in biodiversity. the Guarani expression Y bera defines it as “shining waters”. The adjective fits more than its strong luminance.
Annapurna Circuit, Manang to Yak-kharka
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna 10th Circuit: Manang to Yak Kharka, Nepal

On the way to the Annapurnas Even Higher Lands

After an acclimatization break in the near-urban civilization of Manang (3519 m), we made progress again in the ascent to the zenith of Thorong La (5416 m). On that day, we reached the hamlet of Yak Kharka, at 4018 m, a good starting point for the camps at the base of the great canyon.
Visitors in Jameos del Água, Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain
Architecture & Design
Lanzarote, Canary Islands

To César Manrique what is César Manrique's

By itself, Lanzarote would always be a Canaria by itself, but it is almost impossible to explore it without discovering the restless and activist genius of one of its prodigal sons. César Manrique passed away nearly thirty years ago. The prolific work he left shines on the lava of the volcanic island that saw him born.
Totems, Botko Village, Malekula, Vanuatu
Adventure
Malekula, Vanuatu

Meat and Bone Cannibalism

Until the early XNUMXth century, man-eaters still feasted on the Vanuatu archipelago. In the village of Botko we find out why European settlers were so afraid of the island of Malekula.
orthodox procession
Ceremonies and Festivities
Suzdal, Russia

Centuries of Devotion to a Devoted Monk

Euthymius was a fourteenth-century Russian ascetic who gave himself body and soul to God. His faith inspired Suzdal's religiosity. The city's believers worship him as the saint he has become.
Rostov Veliky Kremlin, Russia
Cities
Rostov Veliky, Russia

Under the Domes of the Russian Soul

It is one of the oldest and most important medieval cities, founded during the still pagan origins of the nation of the tsars. At the end of the XNUMXth century, incorporated into the Grand Duchy of Moscow, it became an imposing center of orthodox religiosity. Today, only the splendor of kremlin Muscovite trumps the citadel of tranquil and picturesque Rostov Veliky.
Meal
Margilan, Uzbekistan

An Uzbekistan's Breadwinner

In one of the many bakeries in Margilan, worn out by the intense heat of the tandyr oven, the baker Maruf'Jon works half-baked like the distinctive traditional breads sold throughout Uzbekistan
MassKara Festival, Bacolod City, Philippines
Culture
Bacolod, Philippines

A Festival to Laugh at Tragedy

Around 1980, the value of sugar, an important source of wealth on the Philippine island of Negros, plummeted and the ferry “Don Juan” that served it sank and took the lives of more than 176 passengers, most of them from Negrès. The local community decided to react to the depression generated by these dramas. That's how MassKara arose, a party committed to recovering the smiles of the population.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Sport
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.
Manatee Creek, Florida, United States of America
Traveling
Florida Keys, USA

The Caribbean Stepping Stone of the USA

Os United States continental islands seem to close to the south in its capricious peninsula of Florida. Don't stop there. More than a hundred islands of coral, sand and mangroves form an eccentric tropical expanse that has long seduced American vacationers.
Resident of Dali, Yunnan, China
Ethnic
Dali, China

The Surrealist China of Dali

Embedded in a magical lakeside setting, the ancient capital of the Bai people has remained, until some time ago, a refuge for the backpacker community of travelers. The social and economic changes of China they fomented the invasion of Chinese to discover the southwest corner of the nation.
ice tunnel, black gold route, Valdez, Alaska, USA
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Sensations vs Impressions

Ptolemaic Egypt, Edfu to Kom Ombo, Nile above, guide explains hieroglyphics
History
Edfu to Kom Ombo, Egypt

Up the River Nile, through the Upper Ptolemaic Egypt

Having accomplished the unmissable embassy to Luxor, to old Thebes and to the Valley of the Kings, we proceed against the current of the Nile. In Edfu and Kom Ombo, we surrender to the historic magnificence bequeathed by successive Ptolemy monarchs.
Travel Sao Tome, Ecuador, Sao Tome and Principe, Pico Cão Grande
Islands
São Tomé, São Tomé and Príncipe

Journey to where São Tomé points the Equator

We go along the road that connects the homonymous capital to the sharp end of the island. When we arrived in Roça Porto Alegre, with the islet of Rolas and Ecuador in front of us, we had lost ourselves time and time again in the historical and tropical drama of São Tomé.
Geothermal, Iceland Heat, Ice Land, Geothermal, Blue Lagoon
Winter White
Iceland

The Geothermal Coziness of the Ice Island

Most visitors value Iceland's volcanic scenery for its beauty. Icelanders also draw from them heat and energy crucial to the life they lead to the Arctic gates.
silhouette and poem, Cora coralina, Goias Velho, Brazil
Literature
Goiás Velho, Brazil

The Life and Work of a Marginal Writer

Born in Goiás, Ana Lins Bretas spent most of her life far from her castrating family and the city. Returning to its origins, it continued to portray the prejudiced mentality of the Brazilian countryside
Cumbre Vieja, La Palma, Eruption, Tsunami, A Televisioned Apocalypse
Nature
La Palma, Canary IslandsSpain (España)

The Most Mediatic of the Cataclysms to Happen

The BBC reported that the collapse of a volcanic slope on the island of La Palma could generate a mega-tsunami. Whenever the area's volcanic activity increases, the media take the opportunity to scare the world.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Natural Parks
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Conflicted Way
UNESCO World Heritage
Jerusalem, Israel

Through the Belicious Streets of Via Dolorosa

In Jerusalem, while traveling the Via Dolorosa, the most sensitive believers realize how difficult the peace of the Lord is to achieve in the most disputed streets on the face of the earth.
Heroes Acre Monument, Zimbabwe
Characters
Harare, Zimbabwewe

The Last Rales of Surreal Mugabué

In 2015, Zimbabwe's first lady Grace Mugabe said the 91-year-old president would rule until the age of 100 in a special wheelchair. Shortly thereafter, it began to insinuate itself into his succession. But in recent days, the generals have finally precipitated the removal of Robert Mugabe, who has replaced him with former Vice President Emmerson Mnangagwa.
Cargo Cabo Santa Maria, Boa Vista Island, Cape Verde, Sal, Evoking the Sahara
Beaches
Boa Vista Island, Cape Verde

Boa Vista Island: Atlantic waves, Dunas do Sara

Boa Vista is not only the Cape Verdean island closest to the African coast and its vast desert. After a few hours of discovery, it convinces us that it is a piece of the Sahara adrift in the North Atlantic.
Jerusalem God, Israel, Golden City
Religion
Jerusalem, Israel

Closer to God

Three thousand years of history as mystical as it is troubled come to life in Jerusalem. Worshiped by Christians, Jews and Muslims, this city radiates controversy but attracts believers from all over the world.
Train Kuranda train, Cairns, Queensland, Australia
On Rails
Cairns-Kuranda, Australia

Train to the Middle of the Jungle

Built out of Cairns to save miners isolated in the rainforest from starvation by flooding, the Kuranda Railway eventually became the livelihood of hundreds of alternative Aussies.
Society
Markets

A Market Economy

The law of supply and demand dictates their proliferation. Generic or specific, covered or open air, these spaces dedicated to buying, selling and exchanging are expressions of life and financial health.
Daily life
Arduous Professions

the bread the devil kneaded

Work is essential to most lives. But, certain jobs impose a degree of effort, monotony or danger that only a few chosen ones can measure up to.
Rottnest Island, Wadjemup, Australia, Quokkas
Wildlife
Wadjemup, Rottnest Island, Australia

Among Quokkas and other Aboriginal Spirits

In the XNUMXth century, a Dutch captain nicknamed this island surrounded by a turquoise Indian Ocean, “Rottnest, a rat's nest”. The quokkas that eluded him were, however, marsupials, considered sacred by the Whadjuk Noongar aborigines of Western Australia. Like the Edenic island on which the British colonists martyred them.
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Scenic Flights
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.
PT EN ES FR DE IT