Sainte-Luce, Martinique

The Nostalgic Projectionist


the projectionist
Gerard Pierre holds a feline Sainte-Luce mascot.
fishing bay
Traditional fishing boats in the quiet cove in front of the village.
Bamboo Jesus
Sticker for a sexually stimulating drink next to a religious inscription on the Sainte-Luce waterfront.
politics
Resident watches a debate with former French president Nicholas Sarkozy.
star of the day
Pompous name for one of the small boats moored in Sainte-Luce.
Happy family
Louisy Belina, native mother, Ayleen, her real daughter and the doll-daughter playing her little one.
Caribbean of all colors
Colorful fishing boats lined up in the Sainte-Luce cove.
car refuge
Gerard Pierre behind the wheel of his Mercedes 190 D.
at the taste of the waves
Couple on a terrace almost in the water.
Biere Lorraine
A pile of beer crates adds even more color to the already bright cove of Sainte-Luce
From 1954 to 1983, Gérard Pierre screened many of the famous films arriving in Martinique. 30 years after the closing of the room in which he worked, it was still difficult for this nostalgic native to change his reel.

We drive at the whim of Martinique's winding secondary roads.

On the south coast, we decided to take a detour and take a look at a fishing village called Sainte-Luce.

The day remained gray, almost rainy. When we came across the bay, we noticed that the cheerful paintings of the fishing boats and the crowded warehouses in the village lent it an unexpected vivacity.

It is kind to Gérard Pierre to see us waiting at a terraced viewpoint, with the car half-open in the vicinity. With nothing else to do, the native leaves the solitary refuge of his Mercedes 190D and approaches us. “Are they also having mechanical problems? Me, I've only used this one for a while now to sit and rest. I have to go to the garage but they ask me for 50 euros in advance… with my reform, I won't make it anytime soon.”

We asked him what he was doing. He tells us that he had recently stopped working on electrical installations. A few moments are enough for us to realize how difficult it was for him to forget about his more distant film-phile past. “I projected the greatest actors of the world there in Rivière Pilote's room.

the projectionist

Gerard Pierre holds a feline Sainte-Luce mascot.

Gerárd Pierre: from Unknown to Encyclopedia of Cinema

If Jacques Conrad – we found out later that he was a wealthy businessman originally from the neighboring island of Guadeloupe – had not turned it into a miserable car park, he probably still did.

You can't imagine the amount of movies I spent there. I know almost everyone's songs by heart, and I still remember many of the dialogues,” he vents with disgust, and then articulates countless French names from the classics shown there, also from his protagonists.

Conversation starts, Gérard also summarizes the evolution of the square screen era, from black-and-white films with live sound to the panoramic Technicolor that he used in abundance while remaining active.

Soon, it returns to sequencing more French titles from pirated movies but also from westerns, of novels, feature films of war and espionage, of comedies and dramas, with or without sequels: “La Filibustière des Antilles” (“The Queen of the Pirates”), “Simbad, Le Marin” (“Simbad the Sailor), “Le Massacre de Fort Apache” (“Fort Apache”), “L'Homme des Vallées Perdues” (“Shane”).

And so on. The list is as mechanical and melancholy as it is endless.

Every time we ask him something, Gérard is eager to get back to the list of films. For recovering some of its protagonists and moments. we dare once more to break the gap.

An Inexhaustible Testimony of the Classical Age of Cinema

On one of these rare occasions, Gérard tells us that he worked in three sessions: at noon, at 6 pm and at 9 pm. “even so, the rooms were always full and not exactly silent”.

Take the opportunity to laugh at the chaotic old days of your cinema. And it continues to bring it to mind, guided by the questions we put to it.

“People not only talked but applauded the most exciting scenes in the movies. It was really excited. They bought Coke and drank it with peanuts and pistachios served in paper straws. Alcohol was prohibited. When the session ended, the floor was almost always filthy. We needed to clean everything over and over.”

Once the new reconstruction of his pleasant past is completed, the splendor of “Le Train Sifflerá Trois Fois” (“The Train Whistled Three Times”), an epic, invades the former projectionist's mind. Western with Gary Cooper and Grace Kelly.

The song in this cowboy feature film had always moved Gérard. And it's with pleasure, obvious flaws in tone and over the Martinique emission of your car radio that we intones “Si tois also you m'abandonnes”, the Francophone theme of the credits.

car refuge

Gerard Pierre behind the wheel of his Mercedes 190 D.

The letter refreshes his memory once more. As soon as he finishes singing, he repeats the introductory motto that “at that time there were so many movies”. He then recovers “Rio Bravo” with John Wayne and a few more Hollywood hits with the duo Lone Ranger and Tonto, among others.

The Longing for Projections and Old Hollywood Hits

We asked him if he followed the most modern movies. Gérard almost steps out the window of the old Mercedes. “If you really want to know, since I stopped working and the old theaters disappeared, cinema has stopped telling me anything.

Fortunately, two of my companions will arrive in the meantime from the Metropolis. They told me that they had videotaped all these films that I used to be here. They will visit me one of these days. We will pass."

This perspective also serves as a pretext for a few more minutes of listing the titles he expected to receive from his friends and review. It only ceases when we question him about his post-projectionist activity as an electrician.

fishing bay

Traditional fishing boats in the quiet cove in front of the village.

The sun peeks through the clouds for the first time since dawn. We need to put an end to conviviality to give photographic attention to the colorful bay of Sainte-Luce, nothing to do with the island of Saint Lucia, neighboring the south of Martinique.

When faced with the imminent farewell, Gérard reacts and resumes his cinematographic spiel.

We find it difficult to abandon him to the caring and nostalgic solitude he seemed destined for.

Instead, we told him that, in Portugal, we still watched these older classics from time to time, at the Lisbon Cinemateca, but that it was not very frequent because of the profusion of new films that we now have access to, even to the indian rival bollywood.

And the very old TV overlay, of course.

star of the day

Pompous name for one of the small boats moored in Sainte-Luce.

Discovering Sainte Luce of Our Days

We appreciate your kindness and leave you with a genuine goodbye. We didn't expect to linger long on the humble outskirts of the village below, or for Gérard to leave there so soon.

In the main bay of Sainte-Luce, we wandered along the seafront between stalls at a closed fish market, or the mini-bars that sold rum planteur and other of the most popular Martiniquean specialties.

politics

Resident watches a debate with former French president Nicholas Sarkozy.

Onwards, inside an uncharacteristic café, three or four residents are watching a television interview with the always pompous president of the time, Nicholas Sarkozy.

We observe through the window a little of the emission. And also the reactions of those Antillean clients to their latest demagogues.

We soon abandoned politics.

Nearby, we walked around a shed painted yellow and red, also decorated with a cheeky sticker of a drink that was promoted in the region as sexually stimulating, “Bamboo”.

In the sun-worn ad, a Caribbean woman in a bikini was holding a green cane of the plant.

Bamboo Jesus

Sticker for a sexually stimulating drink next to a religious inscription on the Sainte-Luce waterfront.

On the other side of the structure, Louisy Belina, native mother, plays with Ayleen, her real daughter and the doll-daughter playing her little one. We stopped for a few minutes to chat with the two of them.

Without expecting it, before we leave Sainte-Luce we are still gifted with an image worthy of the seventh Art.

Sheltered in the privacy of a deserted and unpretentious esplanade, nestled beneath sloping coconut palms and other tropical canopies, a couple discuss and exchange pacifying caresses as the Caribbean Sea gently moves in and out over the volcanic sand and almost pats their feet.

at the taste of the waves

Couple on a terrace almost in the water.

We return to the car, wanting to describe it to Gérard, to ask him if he would find it worthy of designing.

Contrary to what we expected, when we went up to the viewpoint where we had lived with him, the Mercedes 190D remained in the same place. Gérard had left the scene.

Ooty, India

In Bollywood's Nearly Ideal Setting

The conflict with Pakistan and the threat of terrorism made filming in Kashmir and Uttar Pradesh a drama. In Ooty, we see how this former British colonial station took the lead.
Shows

The World on Stage

All over the world, each nation, region or town and even neighborhood has its own culture. When traveling, nothing is more rewarding than admiring, live and in loco, which makes them unique.
Monument Valley, USA

Indians or Cowboys?

Iconic Western filmmakers like John Ford immortalized what is the largest Indian territory in the United States. Today, in the Navajo Nation, the Navajo also live in the shoes of their old enemies.
Robinson Crusoe Island, Chile

Alexander Selkirk: in the Skin of the True Robinson Crusoe

The main island of the Juan Fernández archipelago was home to pirates and treasures. His story was made up of adventures like that of Alexander Selkirk, the abandoned sailor who inspired Dafoe's novel
Guadalupe, French Antilles

Guadeloupe: a Delicious Caribbean, in a Counter Butterfly-Effect

Guadeloupe is shaped like a moth. A trip around this Antille is enough to understand why the population is governed by the motto Pas Ni Problem and raises the minimum of waves, despite the many setbacks.
PN Katmai, Alaska

In the Footsteps of the Grizzly Man

Timothy Treadwell spent summers on end with the bears of Katmai. Traveling through Alaska, we followed some of its trails, but unlike the species' crazy protector, we never went too far.
Ogimashi, Japan

An Historical-Virtual Japan

"Higurashi no Naku Koro never” was a highly successful Japanese animation and computer game series. In Ogimashi, Shirakawa-Go village, we live with a group of kigurumi of their characters.
Saint-Pierre, Martinique

The City that Arose from the Ashes

In 1900, the economic capital of the Antilles was envied for its Parisian sophistication, until the Pelée volcano charred and buried it. More than a century later, Saint-Pierre is still regenerating.
Fort-de-France, Martinique

Freedom, Bipolarity and Tropicality

The capital of Martinique confirms a fascinating Caribbean extension of French territory. There, the relations between the colonists and the natives descended from slaves still give rise to small revolutions.
Martinique, French Antilles

The Armpit Baguette Caribbean

We move around Martinique as freely as the Euro and the tricolor flags fly supreme. But this piece of France is volcanic and lush. Lies in the insular heart of the Americas and has a delicious taste of Africa.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Safari
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Braga or Braka or Brakra in Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 6th – Braga, Nepal

The Ancient Nepal of Braga

Four days of walking later, we slept at 3.519 meters from Braga (Braka). Upon arrival, only the name is familiar to us. Faced with the mystical charm of the town, arranged around one of the oldest and most revered Buddhist monasteries on the Annapurna circuit, we continued our journey there. acclimatization with ascent to Ice Lake (4620m).
by the shadow
Architecture & Design
Miami, USA

A Masterpiece of Urban Rehabilitation

At the turn of the 25st century, the Wynwood neighbourhood remained filled with abandoned factories and warehouses and graffiti. Tony Goldman, a shrewd real estate investor, bought more than XNUMX properties and founded a mural park. Much more than honoring graffiti there, Goldman founded the Wynwood Arts District, the great bastion of creativity in Miami.
The small lighthouse at Kallur, highlighted in the capricious northern relief of the island of Kalsoy.
Adventure
Kalsoy, Faroe Islands

A Lighthouse at the End of the Faroese World

Kalsoy is one of the most isolated islands in the Faroe archipelago. Also known as “the flute” due to its long shape and the many tunnels that serve it, a mere 75 inhabitants inhabit it. Much less than the outsiders who visit it every year, attracted by the boreal wonder of its Kallur lighthouse.
self-flagellation, passion of christ, philippines
Ceremonies and Festivities
Marinduque, Philippines

The Philippine Passion of Christ

No nation around is Catholic but many Filipinos are not intimidated. In Holy Week, they surrender to the belief inherited from the Spanish colonists. Self-flagellation becomes a bloody test of faith
Cable car connecting Puerto Plata to the top of PN Isabel de Torres
Cities
Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic

The Dominican Home Silver

Puerto Plata resulted from the abandonment of La Isabela, the second attempt at a Hispanic colony in the Americas. Almost half a millennium after Columbus's landing, it inaugurated the nation's inexorable tourist phenomenon. In a lightning passage through the province, we see how the sea, the mountains, the people and the Caribbean sun keep it shining.
Singapore Asian Capital Food, Basmati Bismi
Meal
Singapore

The Asian Food Capital

There were 4 ethnic groups in Singapore, each with its own culinary tradition. Added to this was the influence of thousands of immigrants and expatriates on an island with half the area of ​​London. It was the nation with the greatest gastronomic diversity in the Orient.
Culture
Pueblos del Sur, Venezuela

The Pueblos del Sur Locainas, Their Dances and Co.

From the beginning of the XNUMXth century, with Hispanic settlers and, more recently, with Portuguese emigrants, customs and traditions well known in the Iberian Peninsula and, in particular, in northern Portugal, were consolidated in the Pueblos del Sur.
Reindeer Racing, Kings Cup, Inari, Finland
Sport
Inari, Finland

The Wackiest Race on the Top of the World

Finland's Lapps have been competing in the tow of their reindeer for centuries. In the final of the Kings Cup - Porokuninkuusajot - , they face each other at great speed, well above the Arctic Circle and well below zero.
trip around the world, symbol of wisdom illustrated in a window at Inari airport, Finnish Lapland
Traveling
Around the World - Part 1

Traveling Brings Wisdom. Find out how to travel around the world.

The Earth turns on itself every day. In this series of articles, you will find indispensable clarifications and advice for those who make a point of going around it at least once in their life.
Basotho Cowboys, Malealea, Lesotho
Ethnic
Malealea, Lesotho

Life in the African Kingdom of Heaven

Lesotho is the only independent state located entirely above XNUMX meters. It is also one of the countries at the bottom of the world ranking of human development. Its haughty people resist modernity and all the adversities on the magnificent but inhospitable top of the Earth that befell them.
Rainbow in the Grand Canyon, an example of prodigious photographic light
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 1)

And Light was made on Earth. Know how to use it.

The theme of light in photography is inexhaustible. In this article, we give you some basic notions about your behavior, to start with, just and only in terms of geolocation, the time of day and the time of year.
Asparagus, Sal Island, Cape Verde
History
island of salt, Cape Verde

The Salt of the Island of Sal

At the approach of the XNUMXth century, Sal remained lacking in drinking water and practically uninhabited. Until the extraction and export of the abundant salt there encouraged a progressive population. Today, salt and salt pans add another flavor to the most visited island in Cape Verde.
Santa Maria, Mother Island of the Azores
Islands
Santa Maria, Azores

Santa Maria: the Azores Mother Island

It was the first in the archipelago to emerge from the bottom of the sea, the first to be discovered, the first and only to receive Cristovão Colombo and a Concorde. These are some of the attributes that make Santa Maria special. When we visit it, we find many more.
ala juumajarvi lake, oulanka national park, finland
Winter White
Kuusamo ao PN Oulanka, Finland

Under the Arctic's Icy Spell

We are at 66º North and at the gates of Lapland. In these parts, the white landscape belongs to everyone and to no one like the snow-covered trees, the atrocious cold and the endless night.
View from the top of Mount Vaea and the tomb, Vailima village, Robert Louis Stevenson, Upolu, Samoa
Literature
Upolu, Samoa

Stevenson's Treasure Island

At age 30, the Scottish writer began looking for a place to save him from his cursed body. In Upolu and the Samoans, he found a welcoming refuge to which he gave his heart and soul.
Iguana in Tulum, Quintana Roo, Mexico
Nature
Yucatan, Mexico

The Sidereal Murphy's Law That Doomed the Dinosaurs

Scientists studying the crater caused by a meteorite impact 66 million years ago have come to a sweeping conclusion: it happened exactly over a section of the 13% of the Earth's surface susceptible to such devastation. It is a threshold zone on the Mexican Yucatan peninsula that a whim of the evolution of species allowed us to visit.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Victoria Falls, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Zambezi
Natural Parks
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwee

Livingstone's Thundering Gift

The explorer was looking for a route to the Indian Ocean when natives led him to a jump of the Zambezi River. The falls he found were so majestic that he decided to name them in honor of his queen
Christmas in the Caribbean, nativity scene in Bridgetown
UNESCO World Heritage
Bridgetown, Barbados e Grenada

A Caribbean Christmas

Traveling, from top to bottom, across the Lesser Antilles, the Christmas period catches us in Barbados and Grenada. With families across the ocean, we adjusted to the heat and beach festivities of the Caribbean.
Zorro's mask on display at a dinner at the Pousada Hacienda del Hidalgo, El Fuerte, Sinaloa, Mexico
Characters
El Fuerte, Sinaloa, Mexico

Zorro's Cradle

El Fuerte is a colonial city in the Mexican state of Sinaloa. In its history, the birth of Don Diego de La Vega will be recorded, it is said that in a mansion in the town. In his fight against the injustices of the Spanish yoke, Don Diego transformed himself into an elusive masked man. In El Fuerte, the legendary “El Zorro” will always take place.
The Dominican Republic Balnear de Barahona, Balneario Los Patos
Beaches
Barahona, Dominican Republic

The Bathing Dominican Republic of Barahona

Saturday after Saturday, the southwest corner of the Dominican Republic goes into decompression mode. Little by little, its seductive beaches and lagoons welcome a tide of euphoric people who indulge in a peculiar rumbear amphibian.
The Crucifixion in Helsinki
Religion
Helsinki, Finland

A Frigid-Scholarly Via Crucis

When Holy Week arrives, Helsinki shows its belief. Despite the freezing cold, little dressed actors star in a sophisticated re-enactment of Via Crucis through streets full of spectators.
On Rails
On Rails

Train Travel: The World Best on Rails

No way to travel is as repetitive and enriching as going on rails. Climb aboard these disparate carriages and trains and enjoy the best scenery in the world on Rails.
Sentosa Island, Singapore, Family on Sentosa Artificial Beach
Society
Sentosa, Singapore

Singapore's Fun Island

It was a stronghold where the Japanese murdered Allied prisoners and welcomed troops who pursued Indonesian saboteurs. Today, the island of Sentosa fights the monotony that gripped the country.
Casario, uptown, Fianarantsoa, ​​Madagascar
Daily life
Fianarantsoa, Madagascar

The Malagasy City of Good Education

Fianarantsoa was founded in 1831 by Ranavalona Iª, a queen of the then predominant Merina ethnic group. Ranavalona Iª was seen by European contemporaries as isolationist, tyrant and cruel. The monarch's reputation aside, when we enter it, its old southern capital remains as the academic, intellectual and religious center of Madagascar.
São João Farm, Pantanal, Miranda, Mato Grosso do Sul, sunset
Wildlife
Fazenda São João, Miranda, Brazil

Pantanal with Paraguay in Sight

When the Fazenda Passo do Lontra decided to expand its ecotourism, it recruited the other family farm, the São João. Further away from the Miranda River, this second property reveals a remote Pantanal, on the verge of Paraguay. The country and the homonymous river.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.