La Graciosa, Canary Islands

The Most Graceful of the Canary Islands

Caleta del Oro
Sunset gilds the west above the port of Caleta del Sebo.
peak in sight
Hikers about to reach the summit of the Bermeja de La Graciosa mountain.
The Marginal of Caleta
The Marginal of Caleta del Sebo, facing the Estrecho del Rio.
No sign of asphalt
Jeep travels along a sand road on the island. La Graciosa is one of the few territories in Europe still without asphalt.
untamed vacancy
Wave breaks up on the golden sands of Playa de Las Conchas, with Isla Montaña Clara in the background.
risky baths
White houses of Caleta del Sebo against the volcanic cliffs of Lanzarote.
A Youth Outing
A young resident of Caleta del Sebo carries a baby in her arms, on the golden sunset of La Graciosa.
Last Dive of the Day
Visitor prepares to dive in the waters of the Estrecho del Rio that separates La Graciosa from Lanzarote.
graceful art
Artistic patio in a villa in the capital and the only fixed settlement on the island of La Graciosa.
Playa Dorada de Las Conchas
Golden sand of Praia das Conchas, at the foot of Montaña Bermeja
Caleta del Sebo
The port and target houses of the only fixed settlement in La Graciosa.
Playa de Las Conchas vs Isla Montana Clara
Red flag at Playa de Las Conchas, with Isla Montaña Clara in the background.
Canarian art
Decoration and architecture on the facade of one of the traditional houses in Caleta del Sebo.
to Punta Fariones
The sharp point that ends the north of Lanzarote.
Island Tones
The slope of Montaña Bermeja contrasts with the Atlantic blue of Playa de Las Conchas.
roques fariones
Fariones Rocks that accompany Ponta Farione in the far north of Lanzarote.
to Punta Fariones
The sharp point that ends the north of Lanzarote.
Until 2018, the smallest of the inhabited Canaries did not count for the archipelago. Arriving in La Graciosa, we discover the insular charm of the now eighth island.

The seduction had been going on for over a year. In early 2019, on discovering Lanzarote, we arrived late to the northern end of the island to visit its famous Mirador del Rio.

Conforming to the mishap, we descend on the road that runs along the top of the adjoining cliffs.

When we reach the threshold of the Risco de Famara, more than 500 meters high, we peer down into the Atlantic and beyond, the sight of La Graciosa and the remaining islands of the Chinicho archipelago it leaves us in disbelief.

View of La Graciosa de Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain

Two friends chat on the edge of Lanzarote, overlooking La Graciosa and other islands in the Chinicho archipelago.

Even tiny compared to the massive Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, in such a way that, even close, La Graciosa fit us in the breadth of a single look, the insular extension that we admired there immediately generated in us an anxiety.

Over the next sixteen months, given over to planning the next trips, that vision came back to us again and again.

With the chance to return to a new itinerary in Canary Islands, we made sure that it went through the north of Lanzarote and that it included La Graciosa. So it happened.

Already on board the ferry Romero Lines, the more Orzola faded, the closer we got to the sharp peninsula that encloses the summit of Lanzarote, Punta Fariones and Fariones, the great rocks that were also sharp that inspired his baptism.

Fariones, Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain

Fariones Rocks that accompany Ponta Farione in the far north of Lanzarote.

In its imminence, the ocean to the north battles with the waters of the River Strait, the canal, despite its name, marine that separates Lanzarote from La Graciosa.

Used to seeing himself in this dispute, the commander maneuvers the navigation with the way he has gained in countless passages there, smooth, in an oscillating way of being.

we bypassed the tip. With Graciosa in sight, we entered the canal next to the fluted base of Lanzarote, which, made of cliffs so high and rough, made the boat a nutshell.

Punta Fariones, Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain

The sharp point that ends the north of Lanzarote.

With the Mirador de Rio high up, the captain makes the boat cross the river. He points it to the port of Caleta del Sebo, the capital of La Graciosa.

Saturday unfolds. We come across the city in an obvious decompression mode. The jetty that we went around to enter, serves as a landing for a restless community of young fishermen who celebrate our entry with a cheerful mime.

Twilight Landing in the Small Capital of Caleta del Sebo

Already moored beside a forest of flagpoles and flags, we survey the bay ahead. A flurry of bathers indulges in the last swims of the day on the village's sandy beach. Simultaneously, a community of chatty guests drinks reeds and enjoy snacks from the sea on the airy terraces all around.

Behind the houses in the west of the city, the sun now peeked, now disappeared among a caravan of low clouds propelled by the Alisios. It was already under the dark Atlantic that we crossed the bay carrying our suitcases, some on our shoulders, others pulled with effort over the sand to the apartment we had booked there.

Sunset over Caleta del Sebo, La Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain

Sunset gilds the west above the port of Caleta del Sebo.

We went out again an hour later, heading towards the restaurant "the sailor”, one of its gastronomic Meccas. There we stuffed ourselves with Starters of sardines, shrimp, with octopus and the gofio e wrinkled potatoes almost impossible to circumvent all over the Canary Islands.

After the meal, even without our bags, we crawled back to the apartment. We had a whole new island to discover. For a change, we were going to explore it by bicycle.

A Semi-Ride by Bike to La Graciosa

Much less early than we wanted the next day, we knocked on the door of La Molina Bike.

Doña Demelza, welcomes us thinking that we would find visitors something younger. Even so, somewhere between our ease and the desire to pedal, it lets itself be impressed. “You have the air of adventurers, I can already see that, in order to take pictures, you will want to go through the sand, the rocky paths and all that. Look... I'll give it to you Bikes of the off-road, those with the thickest tires.”

Even aware that, in one of the few places with capital where there is no asphalt, the artillery bicycles would tire us to bend, we feel privileged. We are grateful for the blessing, we say goodbye to the smiling Demelza, we disappear among the white houses of Caleta del Sebo.

Casario de Caleta del Sebo, La Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain

The Marginal of Caleta del Sebo, facing the Estrecho del Rio.

Leaving the village behind, with the exception of a sequence of villagers' small vegetable gardens, the island quickly revealed to us how it came into the world.

As you would expect in the Canary Islands archipelago, La Graciosa is volcanic, in geological practice, an insular volcanic massif dotted with five volcanoes. Even if with contained heights, these volcanoes, here and there, spice up the circuit around the island.

A few good rides later, we found ourselves at a crossroads of sand roads between two of them, La Aguja Grande (266m), the highest on the island, in the company of the crater Aguja Chica and the neighboring Montanha del Mojon (185m).

Curious about what the coast from there to Graciosa would have in store, we headed towards it, at the same time, from the north of the island. We reject the Playa Baja del Ganado. Instead, we point to Las Conchas and the foot of the ocher volcano of Montaña Bermeja.

Montaña Bermeja's Conquest and Omni-Revelation

At its confluence, we found a bicycle parking lot more crowded than we expected. We estimated that the yellow sand of the beach next door, in duo with a delicious turquoise sea there, would attract a good part of the cyclists entertained with the return to Graciosa.

The desire to immediately surrender to that Atlantic blown by the Alíseos was not lacking, but with the trail and the challenge of conquering the Montaña Bermeja (157m) starting a few meters away, we had no way of resisting.

On tiptoe, along the trail already marked on its crest, we ascend to the colored summit covered with light green lichens or a very dark yellow one.

Ascension of Montaña Bermeja, La Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain

Hikers about to reach the summit of the Bermeja de La Graciosa mountain.

In addition to the lichens clinging to the rocks, we found the top decorated with an unexpected work of art, four statuettes, carved in what seemed to us sandstone, with shapes, if human twisted, almost amorphous.

We found out later that a cross with the inscription of 1499 came to accompany these sculptures, the year in which the conquest of the Canary Islands archipelago, which began in 1402, is considered to have ended.

Jean de Béthencourt and Enchantment with Little Graciosa

The story goes that Norman Jean de Béthencourt was the discoverer who baptized La Graciosa.

After several weeks at sea, counting since the departure from the port of La Rochelle, Béthencourt delighted in the sight of the almost shallow island at the foot of the gigantic neighbor Lanzarote. He called it, thus, la graceuse, title that was adapted to Castilian.

Montaña Bermeja and Playa de Las Conchas, La Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain

The slope of Montaña Bermeja contrasts with the blue of Playa de Las Conchas. A setting that illustrates the baptism of Jean de Béthencourt.

Béthencourt was determined to stock up on heather, a lichen from which a color comparable to violet is extracted. It ended up conquering Lanzarote and Fuerteventura and colonizing much of the Canary Islands archipelago.

We see no sign of the cross or, among the abundant lichens around us, the precious heather. In any case, the surrounding scenarios quickly claimed our attention and aroused an inevitable visual ecstasy.

To the north and east, La Graciosa stretched out into a sandy expanse filled with low dunes dotted with xerophytic vegetation.

To the south and southeast, the small local desert yielded to the dictatorship of volcanic soil and an almost black grey.

From this brown soil, in the distance, we could see the other elevations of the island rising, the further south, the more diffused in the haze (dusty mist) that arrived there from Sara.

And around La Graciosa, the extension of the Chinijo sub-Archipelago

When we turned to the north and northwest, with the sea in the middle, we saw several inhospitable and uninhabited islands: the Isla de Montaña Clara, just ahead. Further away, the Isla de Alegranza.

We also glimpsed two other islets, Roque del Oeste – also known as Roque del Infierno – in the vicinity of the island of Montaña Clara, the Roque del Este.

This set, plus our hostess La Graciosa (the largest island with 27km2), forms the Chinicho Canary Islands sub-archipelago that kept us a good half-hour in absolute sensory delight.

We interrupted it because of the notion of the time we had left to go around the island and the urgency of recovering the postponed dive at Playa de Las Conchas, which, just below, insinuated itself in turquoise gold.

No sooner said than done. We return to the base of the mountain Bermeja, we crossed the beach. With extra care, we dived under the waves that the trades continued to spur.

Wave at Playa de Las Conchas, La Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain

Wave breaks up on the golden sands of Playa de Las Conchas, with Isla Montaña Clara in the background.

With the return to the island still to be completed, we return to the bicycles still to dry.

We cycle to its northern coast, peeking at the windy seaside of Playas Lambra and Del Ambar.

Instead of going around the entirety of the north coast, we cut our way to Pedro Barba, the second village on the island, even if it is mainly made up of second homes by people from Graciosa and others by foreign vacationers.

Caleta del Sebo vs Lanzarote, La Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain

White houses of Caleta del Sebo against the volcanic cliffs of Lanzarote.

It didn't take us long to see the white line of its houses, against the immense cliffs of Lanzarote in the background.

Afterwards, we climbed, with effort, between the Morros Negros and the eastern slopes of Aguja Grande and Chica. We tried to extend our efforts in order to conquer the island south of Caleta del Sebo.

Return in Time for a New Sunset in Caleta del Sebo

As Doña Demelza had warned us, the road to Punta de la Herradura and its Montaña Amarilla turned out to be too sandy even for the supposedly off-road bikes we were riding.

Exhausted, watching the sun fall over the Atlantic in front of us, with no time to reach the planned destination of Playa de la Cocina, we reversed our way to Caleta del Sebo.

Back to village, we return the Bikes special to Demelza.

Caleta del Sebo, La Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain

A young resident of Caleta del Sebo carries a baby in her arms, on the golden sunset of La Graciosa.

In the temple that was left to us until the dark resettled, we walked through the alleys and along the almost shallow seafront that confronts the huge cliffs of Lanzarote.

La Graciosa still enchants us today.

Caleta del Sebo, La Graciosa, Canary Islands, Spain

Artistic patio in a villa in the capital and the only fixed settlement on the island of La Graciosa.

Lanzarote, Canary Islands

To César Manrique what is César Manrique's

By itself, Lanzarote would always be a Canaria by itself, but it is almost impossible to explore it without discovering the restless and activist genius of one of its prodigal sons. César Manrique passed away nearly thirty years ago. The prolific work he left shines on the lava of the volcanic island that saw him born.
Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

Fuerteventura's Atlantic Ventura

The Romans knew the Canaries as the lucky islands. Fuerteventura, preserves many of the attributes of that time. Its perfect beaches for the windsurf and the kite-surfing or just for bathing, they justify successive “invasions” by the sun-hungry northern peoples. In the volcanic and rugged interior, the bastion of the island's indigenous and colonial cultures remains. We started to unravel it along its long south.
El Hierro, Canary Islands

The Volcanic Rim of the Canaries and the Old World

Until Columbus arrived in the Americas, El Hierro was seen as the threshold of the known world and, for a time, the Meridian that delimited it. Half a millennium later, the last western island of the Canaries is teeming with exuberant volcanism.
La Palma, Canary IslandsSpain (España)

The Most Mediatic of the Cataclysms to Happen

The BBC reported that the collapse of a volcanic slope on the island of La Palma could generate a mega-tsunami. Whenever the area's volcanic activity increases, the media take the opportunity to scare the world.
Terra Chã and Pico Branco footpaths, Porto Santo

Pico Branco, Terra Chã and Other Whims of the Golden Island

In its northeast corner, Porto Santo is another thing. With its back facing south and its large beach, we unveil a mountainous, rugged and even wooded coastline, dotted with islets that dot an even bluer Atlantic.
Porto Santo, Portugal

Praised Be the Island of Porto Santo

Discovered during a stormy sea tour, Porto Santo remains a providential shelter. Countless planes that the weather diverts from neighboring Madeira guarantee their landing there. As thousands of vacationers do every year, they surrender to the softness and immensity of the golden beach and the exuberance of the volcanic sceneries.
Paul do Mar a Ponta do Pargo a Achadas da Cruz, Madeira, Portugal

Discovering the Madeira Finisterre

Curve after curve, tunnel after tunnel, we arrive at the sunny and festive south of Paul do Mar. We get goosebumps with the descent to the vertiginous retreat of Achadas da Cruz. We ascend again and marvel at the final cape of Ponta do Pargo. All this, in the western reaches of Madeira.
Pico do Arieiro - Pico Ruivo, Madeira, Portugal

Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo, Above a Sea of ​​Clouds

The journey begins with a resplendent dawn at 1818 m, high above the sea of ​​clouds that snuggles the Atlantic. This is followed by a winding, ups and downs walk that ends on the lush insular summit of Pico Ruivo, 1861 meters away.
Esteros del Iberá, Pantanal Argentina, Alligator
Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

On the world map, south of the famous brazilian wetland, a little-known flooded region appears, but almost as vast and rich in biodiversity. the Guarani expression Y bera defines it as “shining waters”. The adjective fits more than its strong luminance.
Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Yaks
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit 11th: yak karkha a Thorong Phedi, Nepal

Arrival to the Foot of the Canyon

In just over 6km, we climbed from 4018m to 4450m, at the base of Thorong La canyon. Along the way, we questioned if what we felt were the first problems of Altitude Evil. It was never more than a false alarm.
Itamaraty Palace Staircase, Brasilia, Utopia, Brazil
Architecture & Design
Brasilia, Brazil

Brasília: from Utopia to the Capital and Political Arena of Brazil

Since the days of the Marquis of Pombal, there has been talk of transferring the capital to the interior. Today, the chimera city continues to look surreal but dictates the rules of Brazilian development.

Mountains of Fire

More or less prominent ruptures in the earth's crust, volcanoes can prove to be as exuberant as they are capricious. Some of its eruptions are gentle, others prove annihilating.
Military Religious, Wailing Wall, IDF Flag Oath, Jerusalem, Israel
Ceremonies and Festivities
Jerusalem, Israel

A Festive Wailing Wall

The holiest place in Judaism is not only attended by prayers and prayers. Its ancient stones have witnessed the oath of new IDF recruits for decades and echo the euphoric screams that follow.
Whale Hunting with Bubbles, Juneau the Little Capital of Great Alaska
Juneau, Alaska

The Little Capital of Greater Alaska

From June to August, Juneau disappears behind cruise ships that dock at its dockside. Even so, it is in this small capital that the fate of the 49th American state is decided.
World Food

Gastronomy Without Borders or Prejudice

Each people, their recipes and delicacies. In certain cases, the same ones that delight entire nations repel many others. For those who travel the world, the most important ingredient is a very open mind.
Peasant woman, Majuli, Assam, India
Majuli Island, India

An Island in Countdown

Majuli is the largest river island in India and would still be one of the largest on Earth were it not for the erosion of the river Bramaputra that has been making it diminish for centuries. If, as feared, it is submerged within twenty years, more than an island, a truly mystical cultural and landscape stronghold of the Subcontinent will disappear.
combat arbiter, cockfighting, philippines

When Only Cock Fights Wake Up the Philippines

Banned in much of the First World, cockfighting thrives in the Philippines where they move millions of people and pesos. Despite its eternal problems, it is the sabong that most stimulates the nation.
Princess Yasawa Cruise, Maldives

Cruise the Maldives, among Islands and Atolls

Brought from Fiji to sail in the Maldives, Princess Yasawa has adapted well to new seas. As a rule, a day or two of itinerary is enough for the genuineness and delight of life on board to surface.
Pentecost Island, Vanuatu

Naghol: Bungee Jumping without Modern Touches

At Pentecost, in their late teens, young people launch themselves from a tower with only lianas tied to their ankles. Bungee cords and harnesses are inappropriate fussiness from initiation to adulthood.
Portfolio, Got2Globe, Best Images, Photography, Images, Cleopatra, Dioscorides, Delos, Greece
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

The Earthly and the Celestial

Frederiksted, Saint Cross, US Virgin Islands

The Emancipation City of the Danish West Indies

If Christiansted established itself as the capital and main commercial center of the island of Saint Croix, the “sister” of the leeward side, Frederiksted had its civilizational apogee when there was the revolt and subsequent liberation of the slaves that ensured the colony's prosperity.
On hold, Mauna Kea volcano in space, Big Island, Hawaii
Mauna Kea, Hawaii

Mauna Kea: the Volcano with an Eye out in Space

The roof of Hawaii was off-limits to natives because it housed benevolent deities. But since 1968, several nations sacrificed the peace of the gods and built the greatest astronomical station on the face of the Earth.
Northern Lights, Laponia, Rovaniemi, Finland, Fire Fox
Winter White
Lapland, Finland

In Search of the Fire Fox

Unique to the heights of the Earth are the northern or southern auroras, light phenomena generated by solar explosions. You Sami natives from Lapland they believed it to be a fiery fox that spread sparkles in the sky. Whatever they are, not even the nearly 30 degrees below zero that were felt in the far north of Finland could deter us from admiring them.
silhouette and poem, Cora coralina, Goias Velho, Brazil
Goiás Velho, Brazil

The Life and Work of a Marginal Writer

Born in Goiás, Ana Lins Bretas spent most of her life far from her castrating family and the city. Returning to its origins, it continued to portray the prejudiced mentality of the Brazilian countryside
bangka, lake kayangan, coron, busuanga, philippines
Coron, Busuanga, Philippines

The Secret but Sunken Japanese Armada

In World War II, a Japanese fleet failed to hide off Busuanga and was sunk by US planes. Today, its underwater wreckage attract thousands of divers.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Faithful light candles, Milarepa Grotto temple, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Natural Parks
Annapurna Circuit: 9th Manang to Milarepa Cave, Nepal

A Walk between Acclimatization and Pilgrimage

In full Annapurna Circuit, we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). we still need acclimatize to the higher stretches that followed, we inaugurated an equally spiritual journey to a Nepalese cave of Milarepa (4000m), the refuge of a siddha (sage) and Buddhist saint.
Geothermal, Iceland Heat, Ice Land, Geothermal, Blue Lagoon
UNESCO World Heritage

The Geothermal Coziness of the Ice Island

Most visitors value Iceland's volcanic scenery for its beauty. Icelanders also draw from them heat and energy crucial to the life they lead to the Arctic gates.
Earp brothers look-alikes and friend Doc Holliday in Tombstone, USA
tombstone, USA

Tombstone: the City Too Hard to Die

Silver veins discovered at the end of the XNUMXth century made Tombstone a prosperous and conflictive mining center on the frontier of the United States to Mexico. Lawrence Kasdan, Kurt Russell, Kevin Costner and other Hollywood directors and actors made famous the Earp brothers and the bloodthirsty duel of “OK Corral”. The Tombstone, which, over time, has claimed so many lives, is about to last.
Boat and helmsman, Cayo Los Pájaros, Los Haitises, Dominican Republic
Samaná PeninsulaLos Haitises National Park Dominican Republic

From the Samaná Peninsula to the Dominican Haitises

In the northeast corner of the Dominican Republic, where Caribbean nature still triumphs, we face an Atlantic much more vigorous than expected in these parts. There we ride on a communal basis to the famous Limón waterfall, cross the bay of Samaná and penetrate the remote and exuberant “land of the mountains” that encloses it.
Balinese Hinduism, Lombok, Indonesia, Batu Bolong temple, Agung volcano in background
Lombok, Indonesia

Lombok: Balinese Hinduism on an Island of Islam

The foundation of Indonesia was based on the belief in one God. This ambiguous principle has always generated controversy between nationalists and Islamists, but in Lombok, the Balinese take freedom of worship to heart
Chepe Express, Chihuahua Al Pacifico Railway
On Rails
Creel to Los Mochis, Mexico

The Barrancas del Cobre & the CHEPE Iron Horse

The Sierra Madre Occidental's relief turned the dream into a construction nightmare that lasted six decades. In 1961, at last, the prodigious Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad was opened. Its 643km cross some of the most dramatic scenery in Mexico.
Vegetables, Little India, Sari Singapore, Singapore
Little India, Singapore

The Sari Singapore of Little India

There are thousands of inhabitants instead of the 1.3 billion of the mother country, but Little India, a neighborhood in tiny Singapore, does not lack soul. No soul, no smell of Bollywood curry and music.
Women with long hair from Huang Luo, Guangxi, China
Daily life
Longsheng, China

Huang Luo: the Chinese Village of the Longest Hairs

In a multi-ethnic region covered with terraced rice paddies, the women of Huang Luo have surrendered to the same hairy obsession. They let the longest hair in the world grow, years on end, to an average length of 170 to 200 cm. Oddly enough, to keep them beautiful and shiny, they only use water and rice.
Bather rescue in Boucan Canot, Reunion Island
Reunion Island

The Bathing Melodrama of Reunion

Not all tropical coastlines are pleasurable and refreshing retreats. Beaten by violent surf, undermined by treacherous currents and, worse, the scene of the most frequent shark attacks on the face of the Earth, that of the Reunion Island he fails to grant his bathers the peace and delight they crave from him.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.