Skagway, Alaska

A Klondike's Gold Fever Variant

Resident contemplates two cruises docked in Skagway harbor.
More cruises
Two cruises docked in Skagway harbor.
Classic Temptation
Colored Cadillac in a Skagway back alley.
Train on the hillside
Composition of the White Pass & Yukon Train advances along the White Pass.
Can Can these days
Can Can dancers from "The Days of 98" show.
White Pass
Scenery from White Pass, at the gates of the Yukon.
White Pass & Yukon Train
Composition of the White Pass and Yukon Train.
Visitors sift gold in Skagway.
Native American protectors
Indigenous totems displayed on the main street of Skagway.
Skagway Street
Passersby walk along a historic Skagway street.
White Pass River
Creek gains rapids with the slope of White Pass.
Alaska in small dot
Historic miniature of a Klondike settlement.
All aboard
Engineer climbs onto White Pass & Yukon Train locomotive.
A passerby passes in front of a store painted with a typical mining image.
In the back
Klondike Dredge Tours shipyard area.
New Gold Rush
A Klondike Dregde worker explains to visitors how gold prospecting works with the use of a dredger.
Skagway barmaid in historic costume.
cadilac-Skagway-Gold Route-Alaska-USA
ballerinas-can can-the days of 98-Skagway-Gold Route-Alaska-USA
The last great American gold rush is long over. These days, hundreds of cruise ships each summer pour thousands of well-heeled visitors into the shop-lined streets of Skagway.

Isolated between the Pacific Ocean and the immensity of British Columbia, the panhandle region is fragmented by countless channels and fjords.

From it rise the Coast Mountains, a coastal mountain range semi-subsumed in the largest forest in the United States, the Tongass.

This rude nature makes the construction of roads unfeasible. With the exception of Skagway, Hyder and Haines, local villages still lack a road connection to the outside.

The route of choice is the Alaska Marine Highway, as the name implies, a kind of maritime highway that starts in the far Aleutian port of Unalasca/Dutch Harbor and runs along the interior passage of the Alaskan Skillet Cape to Bellingham or Prince Rupert, north of Vancouver.

We had just landed on Juneau, coming from greater Anchorage. It is in the picturesque Alaskan capital that we board the M/V Malaspina.

We sail towards Skagway, a few hundred kilometers to the north, between green fjords always soaked by rain and humidity.

We dock in a hidden Juneau cove shortly after sunset.

cruises, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA.

Resident contemplates two cruises docked in Skagway harbor.

Janilyn's Warm Reception in Skagway

Janilyn awaits us at the top of the ramp that protrudes from the dock. Without realizing it, it hinders the passengers who go up, overloaded with the luggage they are carrying.

When he finds out about us, he inaugurates an affectionate and willing welcome that would last for almost three days. “I'm glad you came. I was really looking forward to your visit!" To which he adds after closing the jeep's tailgate “'Boa! I left my husband and son at the bar. Lukas will be performing soon…”

With no time to let go of the long journey, we find ourselves at Bonanza, a cozy Skagway bar, drinking invigorating Alaskans Amber.

In a corner, several musicians play for themselves, for their families and some friends, engrossed, as if it were the concert of their lives.

At the tables and at the counter, easy conversations flow, interrupted only by the occasional joke too amusing to be ignored.

Maid in Bar and Corset, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA.

Skagway barmaid in historic costume.

Lukas picks up the guitar and conquers the room with a semi-hoarse and melodious voice.

His melodies in the style of Red House Painters or Mark Kozelek solo, give mother Janilyn goosebumps, and take her to an extreme of emotion that she is forced to share. “It’s wonderful, isn’t it?

I'm very proud of him... and look... since I'm talking about pride, I'd like to tell you something else: my husband and I haven't done this in a long time.

We started to receive foreigners when we realized the image with which United States they were getting to the rest of the world.

The US Image and Skagway's Seasonal Bipolarity

We felt it was important to show outsiders the hospitality of the real America and soften the image we were creating. Fortunately, we now have a more worthy president to help us.”

Despite the often embarrassing contribution of barbarian Republican Sarah Palin and the more conservative strata of the 49th state's population, this diminutive portion of Alaska has long contributed to making a difference.

Totems, Native American, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA.

Indigenous totems displayed on the main street of Skagway.

Perhaps because the territory is detached from the Lower 48 and intimately linked to nature, its existence is lighter and more relaxed, ideal for those looking for new perspectives on life. But not only.

Skagway appears as one of the first towns to arrive from North Country (the great northern Alaska) to the discovery of the Panhandle, the skillet handle.

Its fixed population does not reach 1000 inhabitants, but, as it is part of the Alaskan cruise route, as June approaches, it is reinforced with many other immigrants from the north of the United States and from abroad.

as it happens in the neighboring southern cities, during each short summer, this workforce serves nearly one million visitors who can disembark from up to five monstrous cruise ships per day (with a total of 8000 passengers), 400 per year.

Cruises, Harbor, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA.

Two cruises docked in Skagway harbor.

Skagway: The Profitable Commercial Frenzy from May to September

They are groups of retired people and entire families that land on a time trial, determined to spend unforgettable moments and spend to match.

Skagway makes life easier for them. Ships dock almost on Broadway Street. This street keeps outsiders dammed up and entertained among its shops, bars and cafes.

As a complement to the ambush, the historic buildings were recovered and redecorated in detail.

Cadillac, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA.

Colored Cadillac in a Skagway back alley.

They display eye-catching windows and billboards, sophisticated calls for consumerism that the most alienated of ascetics would have trouble resisting.

In the final years of the XNUMXth century, the appeal was different.

It shined much brighter than the elegant windows on Broadway Street and often cost people their lives.

Historic Street, Passersby, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA.

Passersby walk along a historic Skagway street.

The Age of Shining Alaskan Gold

In 1896 gold was found in the Klondike, a remote region of the vast Canadian Yukon territory.

The following year, a steamship left a first wave of miners at Skagway's Moore's Wharf.

There were more and more ships that would raise their number to 30.000, the vast majority of conflicting and unscrupulous Americans eager to conquer the 800km of mountains and glaciers that separated them from the millionaire rubble.

White Pass, Yukon, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA.

Scenery from White Pass, at the gates of the Yukon.

Not all made the way.

The pioneer narratives were soon promoted to myth. They exalted freezing storms, attacks by Indians, bears and wolves, and poorly calculated river crossings in which several caravans were lost forever.

The more prudent aspirants dedicated themselves, instead, to supplying and serving the miners.

So many stayed in Skagway that, in 1898, the city was fought over by 10.000 greedy souls and had become the largest in Alaska.

The Tourist Reenactments of Skagaway's Golden Age

“Enter gentlemen, don't make ceremonies! The ladies, if you don't mind, ask them for money and go shopping…” proclaims a pimp squeezed by corsets and seductive lace, at the entrance to the Red Onion Bar's Brothel Museum.

dancers, can can, the days of 98, Skagway Gold Route, Alaska, USA

Can Can dancers from “The Days of 98” show.

Today, shows like the “Days of 98” theater, the fictional town of Liarsville and the Gold Rush riverside camp send visitors back to the time.

As is to be expected, they fall far short of the harsh reality of the time, made up of alcohol and prostitution, of fights, shootings and lynchings that the representatives of the law sought above all to avoid.

Jack London's Adventures and Misadventures in Alaska and Klondike

In 1897, Jack London and his brother-in-law James Shepard gave in to the call of prospecting.

Shortly afterwards, London was already suffering from scurvy. In 1903, she spent her life in Alaska for the role from an unexpected perspective.

In "The Appeal of the Forest” chronicled the plight of Buck, a San Bernardo mestizo with a Shetland shepherd who is kidnapped in California by a gambler buried in debt and finds himself desperate in the worse-than-dog world of the Klondike.

Klondike Dregde tour, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA

A Klondike Dregde worker explains to visitors how gold prospecting works with the use of a dredger.

Inland, along the Chilkoot Trail, existence was just as hellish.

Upon arriving at the Canadian border, thousands of prospectors were only given permission to proceed when they had over a ton of equipment and provisions.

In addition to going against all of today's customs logic, the requirement entailed numerous round-trips and caused a serious congestion of wagons along the steep White Pass.

The problem forced the Canadian government to build a railroad.

Driver, White Pass, Yukon Train, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA.

Engineer climbs onto White Pass & Yukon Train locomotive.

Delayed by the numerous obstacles raised by Soapy Smith - a controversial Skagway mobster -, the project was only completed in July 1900, after the gold rush had passed.

White Pass and Yukon Route, a Stunning Rail Gorge

Although it served little or nothing for its initial purposes, the White Pass and Yukon Route has remained mostly active ever since.

White Pass Yukon Train Train Skagway Gold Route Alaska USA

Composition of the White Pass and Yukon Train.

These days, its smoky train and the western scenes it crosses are one of the main reasons why so many dock. cruises at Moore's Wharf.

In the summer, they also provide employment for dozens of residents of the town.

Janilyn does everything she can to facilitate the experience of those who are now visiting the city that was the gateway to that gold stronghold.

Visitors Sift Gold, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA

Visitors sift gold in Skagway.

When we arrive chilled from the round-trip train journey, she, her family and friends invite us to sit around the fire, drinking beers and eating grilled salmon.

At the time of departure, the hostess and her husband offer us sandwiches with that succulent fish and say goodbye in a disguised commotion.

Soon, the family would temporarily move to Oregon.

Skagway would once again be given over to its wintry solitude.

Seward, Alaska

The Longest 4th of July

The independence of the United States is celebrated, in Seward, Alaska, in a modest way. Even so, the 4th of July and its celebration seem to have no end.
Key West, USA

The Tropical Wild West of the USA

We've come to the end of the Overseas Highway and the ultimate stronghold of propagandism Florida Keys. The continental United States here they surrender to a dazzling turquoise emerald marine vastness. And to a southern reverie fueled by a kind of Caribbean spell.
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.
Ketchikan, Alaska

Here begins Alaska

The reality goes unnoticed in most of the world, but there are two Alaskas. In urban terms, the state is inaugurated in the south of its hidden frying pan handle, a strip of land separated from the contiguous USA along the west coast of Canada. Ketchikan, is the southernmost of Alaskan cities, its Rain Capital and the Salmon Capital of the World.
tombstone, USA

Tombstone: the City Too Hard to Die

Silver veins discovered at the end of the XNUMXth century made Tombstone a prosperous and conflictive mining center on the frontier of the United States to Mexico. Lawrence Kasdan, Kurt Russell, Kevin Costner and other Hollywood directors and actors made famous the Earp brothers and the bloodthirsty duel of “OK Corral”. The Tombstone, which, over time, has claimed so many lives, is about to last.
Anchorage to Homer, USA

Journey to the End of the Alaskan Road

If Anchorage became the great city of the 49th US state, Homer, 350km away, is its most famous dead end. Veterans of these parts consider this strange tongue of land sacred ground. They also venerate the fact that, from there, they cannot continue anywhere.
Mount Denali, Alaska

The Sacred Ceiling of North America

The Athabascan Indians called him Denali, or the Great, and they revered his haughtiness. This stunning mountain has aroused the greed of climbers and a long succession of record-breaking climbs.
sitka, Alaska

Sitka: Journey through a once Russian Alaska

In 1867, Tsar Alexander II had to sell Russian Alaska to the United States. In the small town of Sitka, we find the Russian legacy but also the Tlingit natives who fought them.
Juneau, Alaska

The Little Capital of Greater Alaska

From June to August, Juneau disappears behind cruise ships that dock at its dockside. Even so, it is in this small capital that the fate of the 49th American state is decided.
Talkeetna, Alaska

Talkeetna's Alaska-Style Life

Once a mere mining outpost, Talkeetna rejuvenated in 1950 to serve Mt. McKinley climbers. The town is by far the most alternative and most captivating town between Anchorage and Fairbanks.
Prince William Sound, Alaska

Journey through a Glacial Alaska

Nestled against the Chugach Mountains, Prince William Sound is home to some of Alaska's stunning scenery. Neither powerful earthquakes nor a devastating oil spill affected its natural splendor.
PN Katmai, Alaska

In the Footsteps of the Grizzly Man

Timothy Treadwell spent summers on end with the bears of Katmai. Traveling through Alaska, we followed some of its trails, but unlike the species' crazy protector, we never went too far.
Florida Keys, USA

The Caribbean Stepping Stone of the USA

Os United States continental islands seem to close to the south in its capricious peninsula of Florida. Don't stop there. More than a hundred islands of coral, sand and mangroves form an eccentric tropical expanse that has long seduced American vacationers.
Miami, USA

A Masterpiece of Urban Rehabilitation

At the turn of the 25st century, the Wynwood neighbourhood remained filled with abandoned factories and warehouses and graffiti. Tony Goldman, a shrewd real estate investor, bought more than XNUMX properties and founded a mural park. Much more than honoring graffiti there, Goldman founded the Wynwood Arts District, the great bastion of creativity in Miami.
Miami beach, USA

The Beach of All Vanities

Few coasts concentrate, at the same time, so much heat and displays of fame, wealth and glory. Located in the extreme southeast of the USA, Miami Beach is accessible via six bridges that connect it to the rest of Florida. It is meager for the number of souls who desire it.
Little Havana, USA

Little Havana of the Nonconformists

Over the decades and until today, thousands of Cubans have crossed the Florida Straits in search of the land of freedom and opportunity. With the US a mere 145 km away, many have gone no further. His Little Havana in Miami is today the most emblematic neighborhood of the Cuban diaspora.
Grand Canyon, USA

Journey through the Abysmal North America

The Colorado River and tributaries began flowing into the plateau of the same name 17 million years ago and exposed half of Earth's geological past. They also carved one of its most stunning entrails.
Monument Valley, USA

Indians or Cowboys?

Iconic Western filmmakers like John Ford immortalized what is the largest Indian territory in the United States. Today, in the Navajo Nation, the Navajo also live in the shoes of their old enemies.
Las Vegas, USA

Where sin is always forgiven

Projected from the Mojave Desert like a neon mirage, the North American capital of gaming and entertainment is experienced as a gamble in the dark. Lush and addictive, Vegas neither learns nor regrets.
Navajo nation, USA

The Navajo Nation Lands

From Kayenta to Page, passing through Marble Canyon, we explore the southern Colorado Plateau. Dramatic and desert, the scenery of this indigenous domain, cut out in Arizona, reveals itself to be splendid.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Prayer flags in Ghyaru, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 4th – Upper Banana to Ngawal, Nepal

From Nightmare to Dazzle

Unbeknownst to us, we are faced with an ascent that leads us to despair. We pulled our strength as far as possible and reached Ghyaru where we felt closer than ever to the Annapurnas. The rest of the way to Ngawal felt like a kind of extension of the reward.
coast, fjord, Seydisfjordur, Iceland
Architecture & Design
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Tibetan heights, altitude sickness, mountain prevent to treat, travel

Altitude Sickness: the Grievances of Getting Mountain Sick

When traveling, it happens that we find ourselves confronted with the lack of time to explore a place as unmissable as it is high. Medicine and previous experiences with Altitude Evil dictate that we should not risk ascending in a hurry.
Tiredness in shades of green
Ceremonies and Festivities
Suzdal, Russia

The Suzdal Cucumber Celebrations

With summer and warm weather, the Russian city of Suzdal relaxes from its ancient religious orthodoxy. The old town is also famous for having the best cucumbers in the nation. When July arrives, it turns the newly harvested into a real festival.
patriot march

Formosa but Unsafe

Portuguese navigators could not imagine the imbroglio reserved for the Formosa they baptized. Nearly 500 years later, even though it is uncertain of its future, Taiwan still prospers. Somewhere between independence and integration in greater China.
World Food

Gastronomy Without Borders or Prejudice

Each people, their recipes and delicacies. In certain cases, the same ones that delight entire nations repel many others. For those who travel the world, the most important ingredient is a very open mind.
Tatooine on Earth
Matmata Tataouine:  Tunisia

Star Wars Earth Base

For security reasons, the planet Tatooine from "The Force Awakens" was filmed in Abu Dhabi. We step back into the cosmic calendar and revisit some of the Tunisian places with the most impact in the saga.  
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
Plane landing, Maho beach, Sint Maarten
Maho Beach, Sint Maarten

The Jet-powered Caribbean Beach

At first glance, Princess Juliana International Airport appears to be just another one in the vast Caribbean. Successive landings skimming Maho beach that precedes its runway, jet take-offs that distort the faces of bathers and project them into the sea, make it a special case.
Tabato, Guinea Bissau, Balafons
Tabato, Guinea Bissau

Tabatô: to the Rhythm of Balafom

During our visit to the tabanca, at a glance, the djidius (poet musicians)  mandingas are organized. Two of the village's prodigious balaphonists take the lead, flanked by children who imitate them. Megaphone singers at the ready, sing, dance and play guitar. There is a chora player and several djambes and drums. Its exhibition generates successive shivers.
sunlight photography, sun, lights
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 2)

One Sun, So Many Lights

Most travel photos are taken in sunlight. Sunlight and weather form a capricious interaction. Learn how to predict, detect and use at its best.
Ostrich, Cape Good Hope, South Africa
Cape of Good Hope - Cape of Good Hope NP, South Africa

On the edge of the Old End of the World

We arrived where great Africa yielded to the domains of the “Mostrengo” Adamastor and the Portuguese navigators trembled like sticks. There, where Earth was, after all, far from ending, the sailors' hope of rounding the tenebrous Cape was challenged by the same storms that continue to ravage there.
Brava Cape Verde Island, Macaronesia
Brava, Cape Verde

Cape Verde Brave Island

During colonization, the Portuguese came across a moist and lush island, something rare in Cape Verde. Brava, the smallest of the inhabited islands and one of the least visited of the archipelago, preserves the authenticity of its somewhat elusive Atlantic and volcanic nature.
Northern Lights, Laponia, Rovaniemi, Finland, Fire Fox
Winter White
Lapland, Finland

In Search of the Fire Fox

Unique to the heights of the Earth are the northern or southern auroras, light phenomena generated by solar explosions. You Sami natives from Lapland they believed it to be a fiery fox that spread sparkles in the sky. Whatever they are, not even the nearly 30 degrees below zero that were felt in the far north of Finland could deter us from admiring them.
Couple visiting Mikhaylovskoe, village where writer Alexander Pushkin had a home
Saint Petersburg e Mikhaylovkoe, Russia

The Writer Who Succumbed to His Own Plot

Alexander Pushkin is hailed by many as the greatest Russian poet and the founder of modern Russian literature. But Pushkin also dictated an almost tragicomic epilogue to his prolific life.
Elephant statues by the Li River, Elephant Trunk Hill, Guilin, China
Guilin, China

The Gateway to the Chinese Stone Kingdom

The immensity of jagged limestone hills around it is so majestic that the authorities of Beijing they print it on the back of the 20-yuan notes. Those who explore it almost always pass through Guilin. And even if this city in the province of Guangxi clashes with the exuberant nature around it, we also found its charms.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Mount Lamjung Kailas Himal, Nepal, altitude sickness, mountain prevent treat, travel
Natural Parks
Annapurna Circuit: 2th - Chame a Upper BananaNepal

(I) Eminent Annapurnas

We woke up in Chame, still below 3000m. There we saw, for the first time, the snowy and highest peaks of the Himalayas. From there, we set off for another walk along the Annapurna Circuit through the foothills and slopes of the great mountain range. towards Upper Banana.
Acre, Templar Stronghold, Israel, Crispy Sweets
UNESCO World Heritage
Saint John of Acre, Israel

The Fortress That Withstood Everything

It was a frequent target of the Crusades and taken over and over again. Today, Israeli, Acre is shared by Arabs and Jews. He lives much more peaceful and stable times than the ones he went through.
Correspondence verification
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
Cahuita, Costa Rica, Caribbean, beach
Cahuita, Costa Rica

An Adult Return to Cahuita

During a backpacking tour of Costa Rica in 2003, the Caribbean warmth of Cahuita delights us. In 2021, after 18 years, we return. In addition to an expected, but contained modernization and hispanization of the town, little else had changed.
Pemba, Mozambique, Capital of Cabo Delgado, from Porto Amélia to Porto de Abrigo, Paquitequete
Pemba, Mozambique

From Porto Amélia to the Shelter Port of Mozambique

In July 2017, we visited Pemba. Two months later, the first attack took place on Mocímboa da Praia. Nor then do we dare to imagine that the tropical and sunny capital of Cabo Delgado would become the salvation of thousands of Mozambicans fleeing a terrifying jihadism.
Executives sleep subway seat, sleep, sleep, subway, train, Tokyo, Japan
On Rails
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo's Hypno-Passengers

Japan is served by millions of executives slaughtered with infernal work rates and sparse vacations. Every minute of respite on the way to work or home serves them for their inemuri, napping in public.
cowboys oceania, rodeo, el caballo, perth, australia
Perth, Australia

The Oceania Cowboys

Texas is on the other side of the world, but there is no shortage of cowboys in the country of koalas and kangaroos. Outback rodeos recreate the original version and 8 seconds lasts no less in the Australian Western.
Daily life
Arduous Professions

the bread the devil kneaded

Work is essential to most lives. But, certain jobs impose a degree of effort, monotony or danger that only a few chosen ones can measure up to.
Boat and helmsman, Cayo Los Pájaros, Los Haitises, Dominican Republic
Samaná PeninsulaLos Haitises National Park Dominican Republic

From the Samaná Peninsula to the Dominican Haitises

In the northeast corner of the Dominican Republic, where Caribbean nature still triumphs, we face an Atlantic much more vigorous than expected in these parts. There we ride on a communal basis to the famous Limón waterfall, cross the bay of Samaná and penetrate the remote and exuberant “land of the mountains” that encloses it.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.