Hampi, India

Voyage to the Ancient Kingdom of Bisnaga


little subject
Hampi girl walks along the lane in front of one of the highest Hindu temples in old Vijayanagar.
view from other times
Facade yellowed by the setting sun of one of the many buildings scattered around Hampi.
On the banks of the Tungabhadra
Boatmen chat while no more customers arrive at their small makeshift dock.
About to leave
Indian visitors to Hampi leave one of the ruined temples of the old kingdom of Vijayanagar.
With Hampi in my heart
Young salesman displays photo books of Hampi, in front of one of the main - and highest - Hindu temples in the old kingdom of Vijayanagar.
Relief to Art
Carved relief on the wall of a secondary temple in the ancient kingdom of Vijayanagar, on the outskirts of Hampi.
waiting for passengers
Muslim boatman with a coracle (round barge) contemplates the scenery of the Tungabhadra River, the main river artery of Hampi.
Garrido Assortment
Brightly colored powder dye stall in the center of Hampi Bazaar.
To soak
Buffaloes protect themselves from the intense heat that is felt in Hampi, in the dark waters of the Tunghabadra.
hindu laundries
Native women in sari wash clothes in an arm of the Tunghabadra River, also used by buffaloes, fishermen and the general population of Hampi.
golden glimpse
Ruin of a centuries-old building from the Vijayanagar empire, hidden behind a forest of coconut trees.
SiS Security
Indian security guards a restoring Hampi temple, with an entrance between two damaged elephant statues.
boarding time
Passengers prepare to board a large coracle barge that will take them across the Tungabhadra River.
Tower of Time
A turret yellowed by the sun and the centuries, it stands out against the blue sky over the rocky territory of Hampi.
Indian Patience
Couple trying to unravel fishing nets along a branch of the Tungabhadra River.
River Fun
Miúdo bathes in the Tungabhadra River, next to a coracle barge that he uses as a diving platform.
Coke, Sprite or Mirinda ?
Refreshment vendor is in a good mood, buoyed by the good deal brought by the scorching temperatures in Hampi.
an indian sunset
Day ends over the tropical but rocky scenery of the state of Karnataka, around Hampi.

In 1565, the Hindu empire of Vijayanagar succumbed to enemy attacks. 45 years before, he had already been the victim of the Portugueseization of his name by two Portuguese adventurers who revealed him to the West.

The tapered end of the subcontinent never seems to us to be less vast. Nor the inland lands of the state of Karnataka because we ventured out, having already touched the southern edge of India's beak.

The journeys, endless and uncomfortable, continued to wear us out to match. Almost six hours from Ooty to Mysore. Three hours from Mysore to Bangalore. Nine and a half hours again by train from Bangalore to Hozeit. A half-hour by rickshaw from here to Hampi, the destination we were pursuing and which we reached in obvious gastric distress, after a careless meal of tempuras at one of the chaotic train stations we had traveled through.

In the last 30 minutes of the route, the setting became magical à As the poorly motorized tricycle agonized across the rocky lands of vijayanagar. We are at the height of the Indian summer, if you can call it that. The sky was always blue, nothing attenuated the abrasive heat reflected back up through the stone floor.

Mowgli, the feral boy from the Jungle Book, had little to do with these inhospitable places. Even so, the cheap inn we had chosen to stay in had been named in her honor. We craved the coziness of shower and bed as Rudyard Kipling's child craved the shaggy belly of wolf-mother Racsha.

The rickshaw passes through the towering temples of the royal center of Hampi and only stops before the muddy stream of the Tungabhadra River. "Well, I have to stay here" shorts the driver armed with the strength of evidence. "Now, you have to cross in those boats."

We asked ourselves if due to fatigue, if the malaise, no matter how hard we examined the riverside area, we failed to see any vessel. The driver didn't give up. “They are, there, further down. Go a little further and see”.

Even somewhat suspicious, so we do. Only on the verge of the lower riverbank did we finally find a fleet of giant walnut shells, coracles, as the boatmen eager to cash in on the newly arrived passengers called it.

Like any newcomer aboard such barges, we find the swaying boarding strange and even more the little or no hydrodynamic navigation that prolongs the crossing. Protected from the sun by a jillaba and turban, both white, which contrasted with the skin of his brown face, the boatman paddles from side to side without saying a word and always with the air of few friends. We would soon discover that he had charged us triple the rate, with no damage worthy of note, as the fixed price was a few irrelevant tens of rupees.

Shortly after, we entered the guest house Mowgli that unfolds spread over several huts among leafy coconut trees, oversized species of huts and with the decoration and equipment expected by any relaxed traveler.

We rested and tried to recover from the food catastrophe we had been subjected to the day before but the indisposition only got worse. On that night that has however fallen, instead of peace and rest, we are treated to the chilling discovery that the guest house was completely packed with Israeli backpackers.

From several trips around the Earth, we were well aware of its somewhat superb and selfish reputation both with natives and with other travelers. Also how much your presence would most likely affect us. Confirming this, the rave was not long in starting. To our dismay, it lasted most of the night.  

In order to compensate for the damage caused by the psychedelic rumbling and screaming, we slept outside in the morning. As we leave Mowgli's bittersweet welcome for the first time, it strikes us with the certainty that they are about 45º. Even this oven doesn't deter us from renting bicycles and going to the great Hampi.

We crossed the river again, in another barge and already by the table. From there, we circle the sacred center of Hampi Bazaar, among the huge Hindu and Jain pyramidal temples where successive rulers of the Vijayanagar empire worshiped Shiva, Vishnu and other gods.

From 1343 to 1565, this was one of the most powerful empires in the world. This was witnessed by the Portuguese adventurer Domingo Paes and the horse merchant Fernão Nunes. The probability is strong that both got fed up with trying to correctly pronounce his name, until they started calling him Bisnaga to get around the boredom. narrated in “chronic of the Tube Kings” the civilizational glow and the power of the state that, at that time, dominated a large part of the spice trade of the subcontinent and the Indian Ocean offshore and that became the main partner of the Portuguese Empire in South Asia.

In the eyes of Domingos Paes, around 1520, Vijayanagar prospered visibly, financed by the intense sale of spices and precious stones. It was comparable to Rome, surrounded by vegetation well irrigated by aqueducts that brought water from artificial lakes.

Today, Hampi Bazaar – the main commercial stronghold – may lack the grandeur of yesteryear, but sellers are making every diplomatic effort to make themselves and the city more prosperous.

Sara takes advantage. Aware that we are approaching the end of the Indian tour, he finally buys the bright trousers in fine fabric that he has dreamed of ever since he had seen them in Goa. “I don't have your measure in all colors.”, the merchant communicates with disgust. "But I can sew them up and they'll pick up tomorrow." So we did and so we renewed the Indo-Portuguese trade relations so prolific in the heydays before Hampi. 

Afterwards, we circle the temples of Virupaksha and Vittala, which we also enter to admire the countless carved columns, the painstaking paintings and sculptures, and the glorious Hindu architecture as a whole.

Still and always hyperventilated due to the brazier that is felt throughout the state of Karnataka, we explore the old elephant stables, the queen's baths and countless other buildings and temples yellowed over the centuries.

We take the road that crosses the Islamic quarter back to the river and towards the hill of Anjenadri from where we hoped to get a very panoramic view of the complex. But at one point, Indian natives and visitors we come across wave and shout for us not to go any further, to return to the center. “There are bandits up there!” a woman with a brahmin posture shouts at us. "They carry shotguns and everything!"

We were aware that even the motherland of mysticism and spirituality had, from time to time, these aberrations.

Accordingly, we reversed gear to safer stops near the Tungabhadra. There, we come across an inlet of a river stretched between slopes full of boulders. We soon realized the multifunctionality of the deep pool. While we rested there, several buffaloes refreshed themselves almost submerged, like a kid who dived repeatedly from his mini-coracle. At the same time, a couple of elderly natives were fishing from the net, and young women wrapped in folk saris were washing other garments that were just as exuberant or more exuberant.

We continued to pedal in the afternoon outside. And the more we enjoyed Hampi, the more we were delighted to see that, nearly half a century after Vijayanagar's capitulation, life proliferated among the dazzling ruins of Bisnaga.

Jaisalmer, India

There's a Feast in the Thar Desert

As soon as the short winter breaks, Jaisalmer indulges in parades, camel races, and turban and mustache competitions. Its walls, alleys and surrounding dunes take on more color than ever. During the three days of the event, natives and outsiders watch, dazzled, as the vast and inhospitable Thar finally shines through.
Goa, India

The Last Gasp of the Goan Portugality

The prominent city of Goa already justified the title of “rome of the east” when, in the middle of the XNUMXth century, epidemics of malaria and cholera led to its abandonment. The New Goa (Pangim) for which it was exchanged became the administrative seat of Portuguese India but was annexed by the Indian Union of post-independence. In both, time and neglect are ailments that now make the Portuguese colonial legacy wither.
Guwahati, India

The City that Worships Kamakhya and the Fertility

Guwahati is the largest city in the state of Assam and in North East India. It is also one of the fastest growing in the world. For Hindus and devout believers in Tantra, it will be no coincidence that Kamakhya, the mother goddess of creation, is worshiped there.
Dooars India

At the Gates of the Himalayas

We arrived at the northern threshold of West Bengal. The subcontinent gives way to a vast alluvial plain filled with tea plantations, jungle, rivers that the monsoon overflows over endless rice fields and villages bursting at the seams. On the verge of the greatest of the mountain ranges and the mountainous kingdom of Bhutan, for obvious British colonial influence, India treats this stunning region by Dooars.
Gangtok, India

An Hillside Life

Gangtok it is the capital of Sikkim, an ancient kingdom in the Himalayas section of the Silk Road, which became an Indian province in 1975. The city is balanced on a slope, facing Kanchenjunga, the third highest elevation in the world that many natives believe shelters a paradise valley of Immortality. Their steep and strenuous Buddhist existence aims, there, or elsewhere, to achieve it.
Machu Picchu, Peru

The City Lost in the Mystery of the Incas

As we wander around Machu Picchu, we find meaning in the most accepted explanations for its foundation and abandonment. But whenever the complex is closed, the ruins are left to their enigmas.
Goa, India

To Goa, Quickly and in Strength

A sudden longing for Indo-Portuguese tropical heritage makes us travel in various transports but almost non-stop, from Lisbon to the famous Anjuna beach. Only there, at great cost, were we able to rest.
Tawang, India

The Mystic Valley of Deep Discord

On the northern edge of the Indian province of Arunachal Pradesh, Tawang is home to dramatic mountain scenery, ethnic Mompa villages and majestic Buddhist monasteries. Even if Chinese rivals have not passed him since 1962, Beijing look at this domain as part of your Tibet. Accordingly, religiosity and spiritualism there have long shared with a strong militarism.
Meghalaya, India

The Bridges of the Peoples that Create Roots

The unpredictability of rivers in the wettest region on Earth never deterred the Khasi and the Jaintia. Faced with the abundance of trees elastic fig tree in their valleys, these ethnic groups got used to molding their branches and strains. From their time-lost tradition, they have bequeathed hundreds of dazzling root bridges to future generations.
Ooty, India

In Bollywood's Nearly Ideal Setting

The conflict with Pakistan and the threat of terrorism made filming in Kashmir and Uttar Pradesh a drama. In Ooty, we see how this former British colonial station took the lead.
Dawki, India

Dawki, Dawki, Bangladesh on sight

We descended from the high and mountainous lands of Meghalaya to the flats to the south and below. There, the translucent and green stream of the Dawki forms the border between India and Bangladesh. In a damp heat that we haven't felt for a long time, the river also attracts hundreds of Indians and Bangladeshis in a picturesque escape.
Shillong, India

A Christmas Selfiestan at an India Christian Stronghold

December arrives. With a largely Christian population, the state of Meghalaya synchronizes its Nativity with that of the West and clashes with the overcrowded Hindu and Muslim subcontinent. Shillong, the capital, shines with faith, happiness, jingle bells and bright lighting. To dazzle Indian holidaymakers from other parts and creeds.
Siliguri a Darjeeling, India

The Himalayan Toy Train Still Running

Neither the steep slope of some stretches nor the modernity stop it. From Siliguri, in the tropical foothills of the great Asian mountain range, the Darjeeling, with its peaks in sight, the most famous of the Indian Toy Trains has ensured for 117 years, day after day, an arduous dream journey. Traveling through the area, we climb aboard and let ourselves be enchanted.
Maguri Bill, India

A Wetland in the Far East of India

The Maguri Bill occupies an amphibious area in the Assamese vicinity of the river Brahmaputra. It is praised as an incredible habitat especially for birds. When we navigate it in gondola mode, we are faced with much (but much) more life than just the asada.
Jaisalmer, India

The Life Withstanding in the Golden Fort of Jaisalmer

The Jaisalmer fortress was erected from 1156 onwards by order of Rawal Jaisal, ruler of a powerful clan from the now Indian reaches of the Thar Desert. More than eight centuries later, despite continued pressure from tourism, they share the vast and intricate interior of the last of India's inhabited forts, almost four thousand descendants of the original inhabitants.
Guwahati a Saddle Pass, India

A Worldly Journey to the Sacred Canyon of Sela

For 25 hours, we traveled the NH13, one of the highest and most dangerous roads in India. We traveled from the Brahmaputra river basin to the disputed Himalayas of the province of Arunachal Pradesh. In this article, we describe the stretch up to 4170 m of altitude of the Sela Pass that pointed us to the Tibetan Buddhist city of Tawang.
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
Majuli Island, India

An Island in Countdown

Majuli is the largest river island in India and would still be one of the largest on Earth were it not for the erosion of the river Bramaputra that has been making it diminish for centuries. If, as feared, it is submerged within twenty years, more than an island, a truly mystical cultural and landscape stronghold of the Subcontinent will disappear.
Chandor, Goa, India

A True Goan-Portuguese House

A mansion with Portuguese architectural influence, Casa Menezes Bragança, stands out from the houses of Chandor, in Goa. It forms a legacy of one of the most powerful families in the former province. Both from its rise in a strategic alliance with the Portuguese administration and from the later Goan nationalism.
Masai Mara Reservation, Masai Land Travel, Kenya, Masai Convivial
Safari
Masai Mara, Kenya

A Journey Through the Masai Lands

The Mara savannah became famous for the confrontation between millions of herbivores and their predators. But, in a reckless communion with wildlife, it is the Masai humans who stand out there.
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 5th - Ngawal a BragaNepal

Towards the Nepalese Braga

We spent another morning of glorious weather discovering Ngawal. There is a short journey towards Manang, the main town on the way to the zenith of the Annapurna circuit. We stayed for Braga (Braka). The hamlet would soon prove to be one of its most unforgettable places.
Colonial Church of San Francisco de Assis, Taos, New Mexico, USA
Architecture & Design
Taos, USA

North America Ancestor of Taos

Traveling through New Mexico, we were dazzled by the two versions of Taos, that of the indigenous adobe hamlet of Taos Pueblo, one of the towns of the USA inhabited for longer and continuously. And that of Taos city that the Spanish conquerors bequeathed to the Mexico: Mexico gave in to United States and that a creative community of native descendants and migrated artists enhance and continue to praise.
Full Dog Mushing
Adventure
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.
Kente Festival Agotime, Ghana, gold
Ceremonies and Festivities
Kumasi to Kpetoe, Ghana

A Celebration-Trip of the Ghanian Fashion

After some time in the great Ghanaian capital ashanti we crossed the country to the border with Togo. The reasons for this long journey were the kente, a fabric so revered in Ghana that several tribal chiefs dedicate a sumptuous festival to it every year.
patriot march
Cities
Taiwan

Formosa but Unsafe

Portuguese navigators could not imagine the imbroglio reserved for the Formosa they baptized. Nearly 500 years later, even though it is uncertain of its future, Taiwan still prospers. Somewhere between independence and integration in greater China.
Obese resident of Tupola Tapaau, a small island in Western Samoa.
Meal
Tonga, Western Samoa, Polynesia

XXL Pacific

For centuries, the natives of the Polynesian islands subsisted on land and sea. Until the intrusion of colonial powers and the subsequent introduction of fatty pieces of meat, fast food and sugary drinks have spawned a plague of diabetes and obesity. Today, while much of Tonga's national GDP, Western Samoa and neighbors is wasted on these “western poisons”, fishermen barely manage to sell their fish.
Sun and coconut trees, São Nicolau, Cape Verde
Culture
São Nicolau, Cape Verde

São Nicolau: Pilgrimage to Terra di Sodade

Forced matches like those that inspired the famous morna “soda” made the pain of having to leave the islands of Cape Verde very strong. Discovering saninclau, between enchantment and wonder, we pursue the genesis of song and melancholy.
Sport
Competitions

Man: an Ever Tested Species

It's in our genes. For the pleasure of participating, for titles, honor or money, competitions give meaning to the world. Some are more eccentric than others.
Martian Scenery of the White Desert, Egypt
Traveling
White Desert, Egypt

The Egyptian Shortcut to Mars

At a time when conquering the solar system's neighbor has become an obsession, an eastern section of the Sahara Desert is home to a vast related landscape. Instead of the estimated 150 to 300 days to reach Mars, we took off from Cairo and, in just over three hours, we took our first steps into the Oasis of Bahariya. All around, almost everything makes us feel about the longed-for Red Planet.
amazing
Ethnic

Amberris Caye, Belize

Belize's Playground

Madonna sang it as La Isla Bonita and reinforced the motto. Today, neither hurricanes nor political strife discourage VIP and wealthy vacationers from enjoying this tropical getaway.

ice tunnel, black gold route, Valdez, Alaska, USA
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Sensations vs Impressions

tarsio, bohol, philippines, out of this world
History
Bohol, Philippines

Other-wordly Philippines

The Philippine archipelago spans 300.000 km² of the Pacific Ocean. Part of the Visayas sub-archipelago, Bohol is home to small alien-looking primates and the extraterrestrial hills of the Chocolate Hills.
Champagne Beach, Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu
Islands
Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu

Divine Melanesia

Pedro Fernandes de Queirós thought he had discovered Terra Australis. The colony he proposed never materialized. Today, Espiritu Santo, the largest island in Vanuatu, is a kind of Eden.
Geothermal, Iceland Heat, Ice Land, Geothermal, Blue Lagoon
Winter White
Iceland

The Geothermal Coziness of the Ice Island

Most visitors value Iceland's volcanic scenery for its beauty. Icelanders also draw from them heat and energy crucial to the life they lead to the Arctic gates.
Lake Manyara, National Park, Ernest Hemingway, Giraffes
Literature
Lake Manyara NP, Tanzania

Hemingway's Favorite Africa

Situated on the western edge of the Rift Valley, Lake Manyara National Park is one of the smallest but charming and richest in Europe. wild life of Tanzania. In 1933, between hunting and literary discussions, Ernest Hemingway dedicated a month of his troubled life to him. He narrated those adventurous safari days in “The Green Hills of Africa".
Celestyal Crystal Cruise, Santorini, Greece
Nature
Nea Kameni, Santorini, Greece

The Volcanic Core of Santorini

About three millennia had passed since the Minoan eruption that tore apart the largest volcano island in the Aegean. The cliff-top inhabitants watched land emerge from the center of the flooded caldera. Nea Kameni, the smoking heart of Santorini, was born.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Camiguin, Philippines, Katungan mangrove.
Natural Parks
Camiguin, Philippines

An Island of Fire Surrended to Water

With more than twenty cones above 100 meters, the abrupt and lush, Camiguin has the highest concentration of volcanoes of any other of the 7641 islands in the Philippines or on the planet. But, in recent times, not even the fact that one of these volcanoes is active has disturbed the peace of its rural, fishing and, to the delight of outsiders, heavily bathed life.
Military Religious, Wailing Wall, IDF Flag Oath, Jerusalem, Israel
UNESCO World Heritage
Jerusalem, Israel

A Festive Wailing Wall

The holiest place in Judaism is not only attended by prayers and prayers. Its ancient stones have witnessed the oath of new IDF recruits for decades and echo the euphoric screams that follow.
Correspondence verification
Characters
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
Mahé Ilhas das Seychelles, friends of the beach
Beaches
Mahé, Seychelles

The Big Island of the Small Seychelles

Mahé is the largest of the islands of the smallest country in Africa. It's home to the nation's capital and most of the Seychellois. But not only. In its relative smallness, it hides a stunning tropical world, made of mountainous jungle that merges with the Indian Ocean in coves of all sea tones.
Police intervention, ultra-Orthodox Jews, Jaffa, Tel Aviv, Israel
Religion
Jaffa, Israel

Unorthodox protests

A building in Jaffa, Tel Aviv, threatened to desecrate what ultra-Orthodox Jews thought were remnants of their ancestors. And even the revelation that they were pagan tombs did not deter them from the contestation.
Serra do Mar train, Paraná, airy view
On Rails
Curitiba a Morretes, Paraná, Brazil

Down Paraná, on Board the Train Serra do Mar

For more than two centuries, only a winding and narrow road connected Curitiba to the coast. Until, in 1885, a French company opened a 110 km railway. We walked along it to Morretes, the final station for passengers today. 40km from the original coastal terminus of Paranaguá.
Creepy Goddess Graffiti, Haight Ashbury, San Francisco, USA, United States America
Society
The Haight, San Francisco, USA

Orphans of the Summer of Love

Nonconformity and creativity are still present in the old Flower Power district. But almost 50 years later, the hippie generation has given way to a homeless, uncontrolled and even aggressive youth.
Ditching, Alaska Fashion Life, Talkeetna
Daily life
Talkeetna, Alaska

Talkeetna's Alaska-Style Life

Once a mere mining outpost, Talkeetna rejuvenated in 1950 to serve Mt. McKinley climbers. The town is by far the most alternative and most captivating town between Anchorage and Fairbanks.
Sheep and hikers in Mykines, Faroe Islands
Wildlife
Mykines, Faroe Islands

In the Faeroes FarWest

Mykines establishes the western threshold of the Faroe archipelago. It housed 179 people but the harshness of the retreat got the better of it. Today, only nine souls survive there. When we visit it, we find the island given over to its thousand sheep and the restless colonies of puffins.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.