Hampi, India

Voyage to the Ancient Kingdom of Bisnaga


little subject
Hampi girl walks along the lane in front of one of the highest Hindu temples in old Vijayanagar.
view from other times
Facade yellowed by the setting sun of one of the many buildings scattered around Hampi.
On the banks of the Tungabhadra
Boatmen chat while no more customers arrive at their small makeshift dock.
About to leave
Indian visitors to Hampi leave one of the ruined temples of the old kingdom of Vijayanagar.
With Hampi in my heart
Young salesman displays photo books of Hampi, in front of one of the main - and highest - Hindu temples in the old kingdom of Vijayanagar.
Relief to Art
Carved relief on the wall of a secondary temple in the ancient kingdom of Vijayanagar, on the outskirts of Hampi.
waiting for passengers
Muslim boatman with a coracle (round barge) contemplates the scenery of the Tungabhadra River, the main river artery of Hampi.
Garrido Assortment
Brightly colored powder dye stall in the center of Hampi Bazaar.
To soak
Buffaloes protect themselves from the intense heat that is felt in Hampi, in the dark waters of the Tunghabadra.
hindu laundries
Native women in sari wash clothes in an arm of the Tunghabadra River, also used by buffaloes, fishermen and the general population of Hampi.
golden glimpse
Ruin of a centuries-old building from the Vijayanagar empire, hidden behind a forest of coconut trees.
SiS Security
Indian security guards a restoring Hampi temple, with an entrance between two damaged elephant statues.
boarding time
Passengers prepare to board a large coracle barge that will take them across the Tungabhadra River.
Tower of Time
A turret yellowed by the sun and the centuries, it stands out against the blue sky over the rocky territory of Hampi.
Indian Patience
Couple trying to unravel fishing nets along a branch of the Tungabhadra River.
River Fun
Miúdo bathes in the Tungabhadra River, next to a coracle barge that he uses as a diving platform.
Coke, Sprite or Mirinda ?
Refreshment vendor is in a good mood, buoyed by the good deal brought by the scorching temperatures in Hampi.
an indian sunset
Day ends over the tropical but rocky scenery of the state of Karnataka, around Hampi.

In 1565, the Hindu empire of Vijayanagar succumbed to enemy attacks. 45 years before, he had already been the victim of the Portugueseization of his name by two Portuguese adventurers who revealed him to the West.

The tapered end of the subcontinent never seems to us to be less vast. Nor the inland lands of the state of Karnataka because we ventured out, having already touched the southern edge of India's beak.

The journeys, endless and uncomfortable, continued to wear us out to match. Almost six hours from Ooty to Mysore. Three hours from Mysore to Bangalore. Nine and a half hours again by train from Bangalore to Hozeit. A half-hour by rickshaw from here to Hampi, the destination we were pursuing and which we reached in obvious gastric distress, after a careless meal of tempuras at one of the chaotic train stations we had traveled through.

In the last 30 minutes of the route, the setting became magical à As the poorly motorized tricycle agonized across the rocky lands of vijayanagar. We are at the height of the Indian summer, if you can call it that. The sky was always blue, nothing attenuated the abrasive heat reflected back up through the stone floor.

Mowgli, the feral boy from the Jungle Book, had little to do with these inhospitable places. Even so, the cheap inn we had chosen to stay in had been named in her honor. We craved the coziness of shower and bed as Rudyard Kipling's child craved the shaggy belly of wolf-mother Racsha.

The rickshaw passes through the towering temples of the royal center of Hampi and only stops before the muddy stream of the Tungabhadra River. "Well, I have to stay here" shorts the driver armed with the strength of evidence. "Now, you have to cross in those boats."

We asked ourselves if due to fatigue, if the malaise, no matter how hard we examined the riverside area, we failed to see any vessel. The driver didn't give up. “They are, there, further down. Go a little further and see”.

Even somewhat suspicious, so we do. Only on the verge of the lower riverbank did we finally find a fleet of giant walnut shells, coracles, as the boatmen eager to cash in on the newly arrived passengers called it.

Like any newcomer aboard such barges, we find the swaying boarding strange and even more the little or no hydrodynamic navigation that prolongs the crossing. Protected from the sun by a jillaba and turban, both white, which contrasted with the skin of his brown face, the boatman paddles from side to side without saying a word and always with the air of few friends. We would soon discover that he had charged us triple the rate, with no damage worthy of note, as the fixed price was a few irrelevant tens of rupees.

Shortly after, we entered the guest house Mowgli that unfolds spread over several huts among leafy coconut trees, oversized species of huts and with the decoration and equipment expected by any relaxed traveler.

We rested and tried to recover from the food catastrophe we had been subjected to the day before but the indisposition only got worse. On that night that has however fallen, instead of peace and rest, we are treated to the chilling discovery that the guest house was completely packed with Israeli backpackers.

From several trips around the Earth, we were well aware of its somewhat superb and selfish reputation both with natives and with other travelers. Also how much your presence would most likely affect us. Confirming this, the rave was not long in starting. To our dismay, it lasted most of the night.  

In order to compensate for the damage caused by the psychedelic rumbling and screaming, we slept outside in the morning. As we leave Mowgli's bittersweet welcome for the first time, it strikes us with the certainty that they are about 45º. Even this oven doesn't deter us from renting bicycles and going to the great Hampi.

We crossed the river again, in another barge and already by the table. From there, we circle the sacred center of Hampi Bazaar, among the huge Hindu and Jain pyramidal temples where successive rulers of the Vijayanagar empire worshiped Shiva, Vishnu and other gods.

From 1343 to 1565, this was one of the most powerful empires in the world. This was witnessed by the Portuguese adventurer Domingo Paes and the horse merchant Fernão Nunes. The probability is strong that both got fed up with trying to correctly pronounce his name, until they started calling him Bisnaga to get around the boredom. narrated in “chronic of the Tube Kings” the civilizational glow and the power of the state that, at that time, dominated a large part of the spice trade of the subcontinent and the Indian Ocean offshore and that became the main partner of the Portuguese Empire in South Asia.

In the eyes of Domingos Paes, around 1520, Vijayanagar prospered visibly, financed by the intense sale of spices and precious stones. It was comparable to Rome, surrounded by vegetation well irrigated by aqueducts that brought water from artificial lakes.

Today, Hampi Bazaar – the main commercial stronghold – may lack the grandeur of yesteryear, but sellers are making every diplomatic effort to make themselves and the city more prosperous.

Sara takes advantage. Aware that we are approaching the end of the Indian tour, he finally buys the bright trousers in fine fabric that he has dreamed of ever since he had seen them in Goa. “I don't have your measure in all colors.”, the merchant communicates with disgust. "But I can sew them up and they'll pick up tomorrow." So we did and so we renewed the Indo-Portuguese trade relations so prolific in the heydays before Hampi. 

Afterwards, we circle the temples of Virupaksha and Vittala, which we also enter to admire the countless carved columns, the painstaking paintings and sculptures, and the glorious Hindu architecture as a whole.

Still and always hyperventilated due to the brazier that is felt throughout the state of Karnataka, we explore the old elephant stables, the queen's baths and countless other buildings and temples yellowed over the centuries.

We take the road that crosses the Islamic quarter back to the river and towards the hill of Anjenadri from where we hoped to get a very panoramic view of the complex. But at one point, Indian natives and visitors we come across wave and shout for us not to go any further, to return to the center. “There are bandits up there!” a woman with a brahmin posture shouts at us. "They carry shotguns and everything!"

We were aware that even the motherland of mysticism and spirituality had, from time to time, these aberrations.

Accordingly, we reversed gear to safer stops near the Tungabhadra. There, we come across an inlet of a river stretched between slopes full of boulders. We soon realized the multifunctionality of the deep pool. While we rested there, several buffaloes refreshed themselves almost submerged, like a kid who dived repeatedly from his mini-coracle. At the same time, a couple of elderly natives were fishing from the net, and young women wrapped in folk saris were washing other garments that were just as exuberant or more exuberant.

We continued to pedal in the afternoon outside. And the more we enjoyed Hampi, the more we were delighted to see that, nearly half a century after Vijayanagar's capitulation, life proliferated among the dazzling ruins of Bisnaga.

Jaisalmer, India

There's a Feast in the Thar Desert

As soon as the short winter breaks, Jaisalmer indulges in parades, camel races, and turban and mustache competitions. Its walls, alleys and surrounding dunes take on more color than ever. During the three days of the event, natives and outsiders watch, dazzled, as the vast and inhospitable Thar finally shines through.
Goa, India

The Last Gasp of the Goan Portugality

The prominent city of Goa already justified the title of “rome of the east” when, in the middle of the XNUMXth century, epidemics of malaria and cholera led to its abandonment. The New Goa (Pangim) for which it was exchanged became the administrative seat of Portuguese India but was annexed by the Indian Union of post-independence. In both, time and neglect are ailments that now make the Portuguese colonial legacy wither.
Guwahati, India

The City that Worships Kamakhya and the Fertility

Guwahati is the largest city in the state of Assam and in North East India. It is also one of the fastest growing in the world. For Hindus and devout believers in Tantra, it will be no coincidence that Kamakhya, the mother goddess of creation, is worshiped there.
Dooars India

At the Gates of the Himalayas

We arrived at the northern threshold of West Bengal. The subcontinent gives way to a vast alluvial plain filled with tea plantations, jungle, rivers that the monsoon overflows over endless rice fields and villages bursting at the seams. On the verge of the greatest of the mountain ranges and the mountainous kingdom of Bhutan, for obvious British colonial influence, India treats this stunning region by Dooars.
Gangtok, India

An Hillside Life

Gangtok it is the capital of Sikkim, an ancient kingdom in the Himalayas section of the Silk Road, which became an Indian province in 1975. The city is balanced on a slope, facing Kanchenjunga, the third highest elevation in the world that many natives believe shelters a paradise valley of Immortality. Their steep and strenuous Buddhist existence aims, there, or elsewhere, to achieve it.
Machu Picchu, Peru

The City Lost in the Mystery of the Incas

As we wander around Machu Picchu, we find meaning in the most accepted explanations for its foundation and abandonment. But whenever the complex is closed, the ruins are left to their enigmas.
Goa, India

To Goa, Quickly and in Strength

A sudden longing for Indo-Portuguese tropical heritage makes us travel in various transports but almost non-stop, from Lisbon to the famous Anjuna beach. Only there, at great cost, were we able to rest.
Tawang, India

The Mystic Valley of Deep Discord

On the northern edge of the Indian province of Arunachal Pradesh, Tawang is home to dramatic mountain scenery, ethnic Mompa villages and majestic Buddhist monasteries. Even if Chinese rivals have not passed him since 1962, Beijing look at this domain as part of your Tibet. Accordingly, religiosity and spiritualism there have long shared with a strong militarism.
Meghalaya, India

The Bridges of the Peoples that Create Roots

The unpredictability of rivers in the wettest region on Earth never deterred the Khasi and the Jaintia. Faced with the abundance of trees elastic fig tree in their valleys, these ethnic groups got used to molding their branches and strains. From their time-lost tradition, they have bequeathed hundreds of dazzling root bridges to future generations.
Ooty, India

In Bollywood's Nearly Ideal Setting

The conflict with Pakistan and the threat of terrorism made filming in Kashmir and Uttar Pradesh a drama. In Ooty, we see how this former British colonial station took the lead.
Dawki, India

Dawki, Dawki, Bangladesh on sight

We descended from the high and mountainous lands of Meghalaya to the flats to the south and below. There, the translucent and green stream of the Dawki forms the border between India and Bangladesh. In a damp heat that we haven't felt for a long time, the river also attracts hundreds of Indians and Bangladeshis in a picturesque escape.
Shillong, India

A Christmas Selfiestan at an India Christian Stronghold

December arrives. With a largely Christian population, the state of Meghalaya synchronizes its Nativity with that of the West and clashes with the overcrowded Hindu and Muslim subcontinent. Shillong, the capital, shines with faith, happiness, jingle bells and bright lighting. To dazzle Indian holidaymakers from other parts and creeds.
Siliguri a Darjeeling, India

The Himalayan Toy Train Still Running

Neither the steep slope of some stretches nor the modernity stop it. From Siliguri, in the tropical foothills of the great Asian mountain range, the Darjeeling, with its peaks in sight, the most famous of the Indian Toy Trains has ensured for 117 years, day after day, an arduous dream journey. Traveling through the area, we climb aboard and let ourselves be enchanted.
Maguri Bill, India

A Wetland in the Far East of India

The Maguri Bill occupies an amphibious area in the Assamese vicinity of the river Brahmaputra. It is praised as an incredible habitat especially for birds. When we navigate it in gondola mode, we are faced with much (but much) more life than just the asada.
Jaisalmer, India

The Life Withstanding in the Golden Fort of Jaisalmer

The Jaisalmer fortress was erected from 1156 onwards by order of Rawal Jaisal, ruler of a powerful clan from the now Indian reaches of the Thar Desert. More than eight centuries later, despite continued pressure from tourism, they share the vast and intricate interior of the last of India's inhabited forts, almost four thousand descendants of the original inhabitants.
Guwahati a Saddle Pass, India

A Worldly Journey to the Sacred Canyon of Sela

For 25 hours, we traveled the NH13, one of the highest and most dangerous roads in India. We traveled from the Brahmaputra river basin to the disputed Himalayas of the province of Arunachal Pradesh. In this article, we describe the stretch up to 4170 m of altitude of the Sela Pass that pointed us to the Tibetan Buddhist city of Tawang.
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
Majuli Island, India

An Island in Countdown

Majuli is the largest river island in India and would still be one of the largest on Earth were it not for the erosion of the river Bramaputra that has been making it diminish for centuries. If, as feared, it is submerged within twenty years, more than an island, a truly mystical cultural and landscape stronghold of the Subcontinent will disappear.
Chandor, Goa, India

A True Goan-Portuguese House

A mansion with Portuguese architectural influence, Casa Menezes Bragança, stands out from the houses of Chandor, in Goa. It forms a legacy of one of the most powerful families in the former province. Both from its rise in a strategic alliance with the Portuguese administration and from the later Goan nationalism.
Masai Mara Reservation, Masai Land Travel, Kenya, Masai Convivial
safari
Masai Mara, Kenya

A Journey Through the Masai Lands

The Mara savannah became famous for the confrontation between millions of herbivores and their predators. But, in a reckless communion with wildlife, it is the Masai humans who stand out there.
Mount Lamjung Kailas Himal, Nepal, altitude sickness, mountain prevent treat, travel
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 2th - Chame a Upper BananaNepal

(I) Eminent Annapurnas

We woke up in Chame, still below 3000m. There we saw, for the first time, the snowy and highest peaks of the Himalayas. From there, we set off for another walk along the Annapurna Circuit through the foothills and slopes of the great mountain range. towards Upper Banana.
Luderitz, Namibia
Architecture & Design
Lüderitz, Namibia

Wilkommen in Africa

Chancellor Bismarck has always disdained overseas possessions. Against his will and all odds, in the middle of the Race for Africa, merchant Adolf Lüderitz forced Germany to take over an inhospitable corner of the continent. The homonymous city prospered and preserves one of the most eccentric heritages of the Germanic empire.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
Adventure
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
Military Religious, Wailing Wall, IDF Flag Oath, Jerusalem, Israel
Ceremonies and Festivities
Jerusalem, Israel

A Festive Wailing Wall

The holiest place in Judaism is not only attended by prayers and prayers. Its ancient stones have witnessed the oath of new IDF recruits for decades and echo the euphoric screams that follow.
city ​​hall, capital, oslo, norway
Cities
Oslo, Norway

A Overcapitalized Capital

One of Norway's problems has been deciding how to invest the billions of euros from its record-breaking sovereign wealth fund. But even immoderate resources don't save Oslo from its social inconsistencies.
young saleswoman, nation, bread, uzbekistan
Meal
Fergana Valley, Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan, The Nation That Does Not Lack Bread

Few countries employ cereals like Uzbekistan. In this republic of Central Asia, bread plays a vital and social role. The Uzbeks produce it and consume it with devotion and in abundance.
Vairocana Buddha, Todai ji Temple, Nara, Japan
Culture
Nara, Japan

The Colossal Cradle of the Japanese Buddhism

Nara has long since ceased to be the capital and its Todai-ji temple has been demoted. But the Great Hall remains the largest ancient wooden building in the world. And it houses the greatest bronze Vairocana Buddha.
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Sport
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
scarlet summer
Traveling

Valencia to Xativa, Spain (España)

Across Iberia

Leaving aside the modernity of Valencia, we explore the natural and historical settings that the "community" shares with the Mediterranean. The more we travel, the more its bright life seduces us.

capillary helmet
Ethnic
Viti levu, Fiji

Cannibalism and Hair, Fiji Islands' Old Pastimes

For 2500 years, anthropophagy has been part of everyday life in Fiji. In more recent centuries, the practice has been adorned by a fascinating hair cult. Luckily, only vestiges of the latest fashion remain.
View of Fa Island, Tonga, Last Polynesian Monarchy
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Exotic Signs of Life

Angra do Heroísmo, Terceira, Azores, from historic capital to World Heritage, urban art
History
Angra do Heroismo, Terceira (Azores), Azores

Heroina do Mar, from Noble People, Brave and Immortal City

Angra do Heroísmo is much more than the historic capital of the Azores, Terceira Island and, on two occasions, Portugal. 1500km from the mainland, it gained a leading role in Portuguese nationality and independence that few other cities can boast.
Ross Bridge, Tasmania, Australia
Islands
Discovering tassie, Part 3, Tasmania, Australia

Tasmania from Top to Bottom

The favorite victim of Australian anecdotes has long been the Tasmania never lost the pride in the way aussie ruder to be. Tassie remains shrouded in mystery and mysticism in a kind of hindquarters of the antipodes. In this article, we narrate the peculiar route from Hobart, the capital located in the unlikely south of the island to the north coast, the turn to the Australian continent.
coast, fjord, Seydisfjordur, Iceland
Winter White
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Almada Negreiros, Roça Saudade, Sao Tome
Literature
Saudade, São Tomé, São Tomé and Principe

Almada Negreiros: From Saudade to Eternity

Almada Negreiros was born in April 1893, on a farm in the interior of São Tomé. Upon discovering his origins, we believe that the luxuriant exuberance in which he began to grow oxygenated his fruitful creativity.
Rancho Salto Yanigua, Dominican Republic, mining stones
Nature
Montana Redonda and Rancho Salto Yanigua, Dominican Republic

From Montaña Redonda to Rancho Salto Yanigua

Discovering the Dominican northwest, we ascend to the Montaña Redonda de Miches, recently transformed into an unusual peak of escape. From the top, we point to Bahia de Samaná and Los Haitises, passing through the picturesque Salto Yanigua ranch.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Walvis Bay, Namibia, bay, dunes
Natural Parks
Walvis Bay, Namíbia

The Outstanding Shoreline of Walvis Bay

From Namibia's largest coastal city to the edge of the Namib Desert of Sandwich Harbour, there is an unrivaled domain of ocean, dunes, fog and wildlife. Since 1790, the fruitful Walvis Bay has been its gateway.
Khiva, Uzbekistan, Fortress, Silk Road,
UNESCO World Heritage
Khiva, Uzbequistan

The Silk Road Fortress the Soviets Velved

In the 80s, Soviet leaders renewed Khiva in a softened version that, in 1990, UNESCO declared a World Heritage Site. The USSR disintegrated the following year. Khiva has preserved its new luster.
Correspondence verification
Characters
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
Sesimbra, Vila, Portugal, View from the top
Beaches
Sesimbra, Portugal

A Village Touched by Midas

It's not just Praia da California and Praia do Ouro that close it to the south. Sheltered from the furies of the West Atlantic, gifted with other immaculate coves and endowed with centuries-old fortifications, Sesimbra is today a precious fishing and bathing haven.
Rostov Veliky Kremlin, Russia
Religion
Rostov Veliky, Russia

Under the Domes of the Russian Soul

It is one of the oldest and most important medieval cities, founded during the still pagan origins of the nation of the tsars. At the end of the XNUMXth century, incorporated into the Grand Duchy of Moscow, it became an imposing center of orthodox religiosity. Today, only the splendor of kremlin Muscovite trumps the citadel of tranquil and picturesque Rostov Veliky.
Train Fianarantsoa to Manakara, Malagasy TGV, locomotive
On Rails
Fianarantsoa-Manakara, Madagascar

On board the Malagasy TGV

We depart Fianarantsoa at 7a.m. It wasn't until 3am the following morning that we completed the 170km to Manakara. The natives call this almost secular train Train Great Vibrations. During the long journey, we felt, very strongly, those of the heart of Madagascar.
Nissan, Fashion, Tokyo, Japan
Society
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo's fashion

In ultra-populous and hyper-coded Japan, there is always room for more sophistication and creativity. Whether national or imported, it is in the capital that they begin to parade the new Japanese looks.
herd, foot-and-mouth disease, weak meat, colonia pellegrini, argentina
Daily life
Colónia Pellegrini, Argentina

When the Meat is Weak

The unmistakable flavor of Argentine beef is well known. But this wealth is more vulnerable than you think. The threat of foot-and-mouth disease, in particular, keeps authorities and growers afloat.
Newborn turtle, PN Tortuguero, Costa Rica
Wildlife
Tortuguero NP, Costa Rica

A Night at the Nursery of Tortuguero

The name of the Tortuguero region has an obvious and ancient reason. Turtles from the Atlantic and the Caribbean Sea have long flocked to the black sand beaches of its narrow coastline to spawn. On one of the nights we spent in Tortuguero we watched their frenzied births.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.