Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain

José Saramago's Basalt Raft


Saramago's Glorieta
Monument to the life of José Saramago in a roundabout next to his house in Lanzarote.
Sebastião Salgado's photo
Photo of Saramago and Pilar taken by Brazilian photographer Sebastião Salgado.
Backyard visitors
Visitors cross the backyard of Casa de Saramago and Pilar.
Figurine in Reading
Mini-sculpture by José Saramago in reading mode.
El Cuervo Crater
Trail in the crater of José Saramago's favorite volcano.
Saramago over Lava
Photo by José Saramago with open arms to the island of Lanzarote.
Painting on Books
Saramago in painting, on books from his large library at the House.
On the way to El Cuervo
Casal follows a trail towards the El Cuervo volcano.
Cheerful Bush
Hardy plant at the heart of El Cuervo volcano.
In Review
Saramago featured in a magazine article.
the Montaña Blanca
The neon of a kart track contrasts with the blackness of the White Mountain.
In 1993, frustrated by the Portuguese government's disregard for his work “The Gospel According to Jesus Christ”, Saramago moved with his wife Pilar del Río to Lanzarote. Back on this somewhat extraterrestrial Canary Island, we visited his home. And the refuge from the portuguese censorship that haunted the writer.

The approach to Tías, the place that welcomed José Saramago, Pilar del Río and their House, begins by revealing to us the monument of roundabout erected in honor of the writer.

On the lava gravel of the roundabout, overlooking the Atlantic and flanked by palm trees, stands a steel olive tree in the same ocher tone as the ground.

At five meters high, the tree of peace was created by Ester Fernández Viña based on the writer's initial J and S. It is based on one of the several quotes with which Saramago praised his Canary welcome: “Lanzarote is not mi tierra, but is tierra mia."

Those who disembark for the first time on the large island of the archipelago closest to Portugal are tempted to think that the Martian Lanzarote, with its ocher surface covered with craters, calderas and fumaroles, could hardly give comfort to any earthling.

The reality and the target houses revealed by the approach of the airport, quickly annihilate this impression. Lanzarote has long been home to over XNUMX inhabitants.

Whoever arrives with time to feel its insular soul, proves to be dazzling. As proof, the annual number of visitors and foreigners who move there has been increasing for a long time.

A canary born and bred in Lanzarote has achieved worldwide recognition comparable to that of Saramago. We refer to César Manrique, a multifaceted artist whose works are spread all over the island and in other Canaries.

In fact, Manrique was named after Lanzarote's international airport. The one in which Saramago, like us, felt, for the first time, the African breath of the island, in our case, the suffocating caress of the haze from the Sahara that so often surrounds it.

The House full of Books by José Saramago and Pilar del Río

We close the photo session of the Glorieta de Saramago. Moments later, we arrive at A Casa that José Saramago and Pilar del Río built in Tías.

The clerk at the ticket office asks us for nationality. When we answer, she asks us which book by Saramago we liked the most.

We answer "The Gospel According to Jesus Christ” because it was the pure and hard reality, for the thematic audacity and creativity in its genesis, not for having condemned him to the banishment and controversy that motivated him to leave Portugal or for having contributed in a decisive way to the conquest of the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1998.

The employee also asks us if some of Saramago's books were mandatory in school education. We confessed that we were not aware. We proceed inland.

The Insightful Library of Casa de Saramago

Unsurprisingly, more than a home and a museum, A Casa proves to be a huge library, full of titles that the couple read and that inspired Saramago's unusual and talented writing. Saramago, we estimate that with Pilar's intervention, he organized the books.

By themes. And according to the authors' countries. In the case of titles written by women, in a separate section, arranged in alphabetical order. Saramago and/or Pilar had their reasons there.

We also wandered through the residential divisions of A Casa, the office also set up against a shelf where a photo of Pilar, smiling, defies the dictatorship of books, equipped with a desk on which an already outdated PC rested.

We proceeded to the living room, equipped with large leather sofas, where the couple received family and friends, several of them renowned authors. And from a TV that, we believe, Saramago used to keep up to date with the news, the reality of the Portuguese village.

The Backyard with a View to the Atlantic, by Saramago and Pilar

We went to the backyard, a space with a view of the ocean and ground even more fierce than the one on the Selfstanding of the monument. Shortly after choosing the place where they would build A Casa, Saramago and Pilar dedicated themselves to planting trees and plants, some with important symbolism for both.

Olive trees like the ones that proliferated in his native Ribatejo, Azinhaga, Golegã, in the company of palm trees and Canary pines, a plant fusion analogous to the experience that the writer was about to inaugurate.

They also planted quince trees, fruitful celebrations by director Victor Erice and painter António López.

On a lower plane, greenery bending over the ferrous earth, different types of cactus, including a spherical golden barrel cactus, bola d'ouro, also known as mother-in-law's seat.

The Censorship and Contempt of the Government of Cavaco Silva that led to the Move to Lanzarote

Let's go back to 1991.

In the wake of a contestation and attempt to systematically devalue the critical works of Saramago's Christianity, the conservative government of Cavaco Silva, in the person of the Deputy Assistant Secretary of State for Culture, Sousa Lara, vetoed "O Evangelho second Jesus Christ” of the candidacy for the European Literary Prize (PLE).

A convinced communist, a staunch denouncer of the inconsistencies of the Christian faith and censorship in all its expressions, Saramago felt discriminated against.

Ashamed of the rulers that Portugal had elected, he decided, with Pilar del Río, to safeguard himself from anger and frustration in Lanzarote.

Na island of many volcanoes, Saramago quickly felt Lanzaroteño. The writer became an unconditional admirer of César Manrique, to whom he recognized the love with which he left the world artistic circle and, instead, dedicated himself to beautifying and humanizing the Lanzarote where he was born.

Saramago's Passion for Lanzarote and Admiration for the Son of the Island César Manrique

As a rule, the journeys on which Saramago and Pilar guided their visitors – Baptista Bastos, Eduardo Galeano, Susan Sontag, José Luis Sanpedro, among others – began in Tahíche, where the Manrique foundation was located.

Corner of the César Manrique Foundation, Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain

Creative corner of the César Manrique Foundation, adorned with visual elements from the island.

It is even said that Saramago and Manrique had arranged a meeting on the phone, for a while later.

This was prevented, on 25 September 1992, by the tragic death of César Manrique, victim of a road accident in the same village. Manrique might (or might not) have been Saramago's perfect companion.

As was, for the couple, the raw and harsh nature of Lanzarote, the eccentric volcanic landscapes in which they loved to walk, which Saramago felt were “a beginning and end of the world”.

The Intimate Relationship with the Volcanic Nature of Lanzarote

Between the west of the island and the capital Arrecife, we passed several times, at the end of the day, by a neon nestled between palm trees that preached an unexpected “Go Kart".

Behind this neon, with its sharp peak, rose, at 600 meters of altitude, one of the mountains that Saramago and Pilar most praised. Saramago saw her, day after day, from their house.

He was already 70 years old when he conquered the top of his cone.

In one of his blog entries from 2009, he confessed that “if I had the legs of then, I would leave what I was writing at that point where it is to go up again and contemplate the island, all of it…”

He also wrote that he never intended to climb the neighboring mountain Tesa (504m) but that, when he reached its foot, he could not resist.

The Volcán del Cuervo was another Lanzarote geological masterpiece that Saramago and Pilar del Río loved exploring.

During the walk we took to meet them, in addition to the couple's reverence for the volcano, we came across the place where Sebastião Salgado photographed them.

Inside the collapsed crater, with both walking hand in hand, making a concerted effort against a raging gale.

The Successive Works Created by Saramago in Lanzarote until his death in 2010

Saramago lived for seventeen years at Casa de Tías and in Lanzarote.

At that time, he wrote “The Tale of the Unknown Island","The Cave”, “Essay on Lucidity","The Duplicate Man” among many other works.

The Lanzarote retreat gave Saramago an intimate connection with the most sensorial nature he had ever experienced.

And the clarity of mind that led him to create "Ensaio about Cegueira”, one of his most popular works, if only because of the film adaptation it deserved.

"Ensaio about Cegueira” evolves as a denunciation of an epidemic blindness – blindness of the simple not seeing, but also of the inability of the human species to detect, to assume the inconsistencies and injustices that Saramago tried to highlight, the same contradictions that embroiled him in controversy.

Above all its inveterate atheism and anti-Christian Communism.

But also his latent apology in “The Stone Raft” that Portugal would only have to gain if it joined Spain.

In October 2009, during a conversation with Tolentino de Mendonça, a Catholic theologian, unlike others, open to dialogue and religious dissent, Saramago took the opportunity to refer listeners to the darkest and most annihilating era of the Catholic Church: “To me , what matters to me, my dear Tolentino, is that there are no more bonfires in São Domingos.”

Seventeen years after moving to Lanzarote, Saramago remained faithful to his self-declared exile.

On June 18, 2010, less than a year after the conversation with Tolentino de Mendonça, at the age of 87, José Saramago died, with his wife, at their home in Tías, on the Canary and Spanish island of volcanoes, magma and its solidified stand.

Saint Petersburg e Mikhaylovkoe, Russia

The Writer Who Succumbed to His Own Plot

Alexander Pushkin is hailed by many as the greatest Russian poet and the founder of modern Russian literature. But Pushkin also dictated an almost tragicomic epilogue to his prolific life.
Saint Petersburg, Russia

On the track of "Crime and Punishment"

In St. Petersburg, we cannot resist investigating the inspiration for the base characters in Fyodor Dostoevsky's most famous novel: his own pities and the miseries of certain fellow citizens.
PN Timanfaya, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

PN Timanfaya and the Fire Mountains of Lanzarote

Between 1730 and 1736, out of nowhere, dozens of volcanoes in Lanzarote erupted successively. The massive amount of lava they released buried several villages and forced almost half of the inhabitants to emigrate. The legacy of this cataclysm is the current Martian setting of the exuberant PN Timanfaya.
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Lanzarote, Canary Islands

To César Manrique what is César Manrique's

By itself, Lanzarote would always be a Canaria by itself, but it is almost impossible to explore it without discovering the restless and activist genius of one of its prodigal sons. César Manrique passed away nearly thirty years ago. The prolific work he left shines on the lava of the volcanic island that saw him born.
Goiás Velho, Brazil

The Life and Work of a Marginal Writer

Born in Goiás, Ana Lins Bretas spent most of her life far from her castrating family and the city. Returning to its origins, it continued to portray the prejudiced mentality of the Brazilian countryside
Upolu, Samoa

Stevenson's Treasure Island

At age 30, the Scottish writer began looking for a place to save him from his cursed body. In Upolu and the Samoans, he found a welcoming refuge to which he gave his heart and soul.
Big Sur, USA

The Coast of All Refuges

Over 150km, the Californian coast is subjected to a vastness of mountains, ocean and fog. In this epic setting, hundreds of tormented souls follow in the footsteps of Jack Kerouac and Henri Miller.
La Graciosa, Canary Islands

The Most Graceful of the Canary Islands

Until 2018, the smallest of the inhabited Canaries did not count for the archipelago. Arriving in La Graciosa, we discover the insular charm of the now eighth island.
Fuerteventura, Canary Islands

Fuerteventura - Canary Island and Jangada do Tempo

A short ferry crossing and we disembark in Corralejo, at the top northeast of Fuerteventura. With Morocco and Africa a mere 100km away, we get lost in the wonders of unique desert, volcanic and post-colonial sceneries.
Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, Spain

Fuerteventura's Atlantic Ventura

The Romans knew the Canaries as the lucky islands. Fuerteventura, preserves many of the attributes of that time. Its perfect beaches for the windsurf and kite-surfing or just for bathing, they justify successive “invasions” by the sun-hungry northern peoples. In the volcanic and rugged interior, the bastion of the island's indigenous and colonial cultures remains. We started to unravel it along its long south.
El Hierro, Canary Islands

The Volcanic Rim of the Canaries and the Old World

Until Columbus arrived in the Americas, El Hierro was seen as the threshold of the known world and, for a time, the Meridian that delimited it. Half a millennium later, the last western island of the Canaries is teeming with exuberant volcanism.

Valencia to Xativa, Spain

Across Iberia

Leaving aside the modernity of Valencia, we explore the natural and historical settings that the "community" shares with the Mediterranean. The more we travel, the more its bright life seduces us.

Matarraña to Alcanar, Spain

A Medieval Spain

Traveling through the lands of Aragon and Valencia, we come across towers and detached battlements of houses that fill the slopes. Mile after kilometer, these visions prove to be as anachronistic as they are fascinating.

La Palma, Canary IslandsSpain

The Most Mediatic of the Cataclysms to Happen

The BBC reported that the collapse of a volcanic slope on the island of La Palma could generate a mega-tsunami. Whenever the area's volcanic activity increases, the media take the opportunity to scare the world.
Tenerife, Canary Islands

The Volcano that Haunts the Atlantic

At 3718m, El Teide is the roof of the Canaries and Spain. Not only. If measured from the ocean floor (7500 m), only two mountains are more pronounced. The Guanche natives considered it the home of Guayota, their devil. Anyone traveling to Tenerife knows that old Teide is everywhere.
La Palma, Canary Islands

The "Isla Bonita" of the Canary Islands

In 1986 Madonna Louise Ciccone launched a hit that popularized the attraction exerted by a island imaginary. Ambergris Caye, in Belize, reaped benefits. On this side of the Atlantic, the palmeros that's how they see their real and stunning Canaria.
Vegueta, Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

Around the Heart of the Royal Canaries

The old and majestic Vegueta de Las Palmas district stands out in the long and complex Hispanization of the Canaries. After a long period of noble expeditions, the final conquest of Gran Canaria and the remaining islands of the archipelago began there, under the command of the monarchs of Castile and Aragon.
Tenerife, Canary Islands

East of White Mountain Island

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Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

Grand Canary Islands

It is only the third largest island in the archipelago. It so impressed European navigators and settlers that they got used to treating it as the supreme.
Residents walk along the trail that runs through plantations above the UP4
City
Gurué, Mozambique, Part 1

Through the Mozambican Lands of Tea

The Portuguese founded Gurué in the 1930th century and, from XNUMX onwards, flooded it with camellia sinensis the foothills of the Namuli Mountains. Later, they renamed it Vila Junqueiro, in honor of its main promoter. With the independence of Mozambique and the civil war, the town regressed. It continues to stand out for the lush green imposing mountains and teak landscapes.
Skipper of one of the bangkas at Raymen Beach Resort during a break from sailing
Beach
Islands Guimaras  e  Ave Maria, Philippines

Towards Ave Maria Island, in a Philippines full of Grace

Discovering the Western Visayas archipelago, we set aside a day to travel from Iloilo along the northwest coast of Guimaras. The beach tour along one of the Philippines’ countless pristine coastlines ends on the stunning Ave Maria Island.
Rhinoceros, PN Kaziranga, Assam, India
safari
PN Kaziranga, India

The Indian Monoceros Stronghold

Situated in the state of Assam, south of the great Brahmaputra river, PN Kaziranga occupies a vast area of ​​alluvial swamp. Two-thirds of the rhinocerus unicornis around the world, there are around 100 tigers, 1200 elephants and many other animals. Pressured by human proximity and the inevitable poaching, this precious park has not been able to protect itself from the hyperbolic floods of the monsoons and from some controversies.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Colonial Church of San Francisco de Assis, Taos, New Mexico, USA
Architecture & Design
Taos, USA

North America Ancestor of Taos

Traveling through New Mexico, we were dazzled by the two versions of Taos, that of the indigenous adobe hamlet of Taos Pueblo, one of the towns of the USA inhabited for longer and continuously. And that of Taos city that the Spanish conquerors bequeathed to the Mexico, Mexico gave in to United States and that a creative community of native descendants and migrated artists enhance and continue to praise.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Aventura
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.
Ceremonies and Festivities
Pueblos del Sur, Venezuela

The Pueblos del Sur Locainas, Their Dances and Co.

From the beginning of the XNUMXth century, with Hispanic settlers and, more recently, with Portuguese emigrants, customs and traditions well known in the Iberian Peninsula and, in particular, in northern Portugal, were consolidated in the Pueblos del Sur.
Ponta Delgada, São Miguel, Azores, City Gates
Cities
Ponta Delgada, São Miguel, Azores

The City of the Big Island of the Azores

During the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries, Ponta Delgada became the most populous city and the economic and administrative capital of the Azores. There we find the history and modernism of the archipelago hand in hand.
Lunch time
Margilan, Uzbekistan

An Uzbekistan's Breadwinner

In one of the many bakeries in Margilan, worn out by the intense heat of the tandyr oven, the baker Maruf'Jon works half-baked like the distinctive traditional breads sold throughout Uzbekistan
Eswatini, Ezulwini Valley, Mantenga Cultural Village
Culture
Ezulwini Valley, eSwatini

Around the Royal and Heavenly Valley of Eswatini

Stretching for almost 30km, the Ezulwini Valley is the heart and soul of old Swaziland. Lobamba is located there, the traditional capital and seat of the monarchy, a short distance from the de facto capital, Mbabane. Green and panoramic, deeply historical and cultural, the valley still remains the tourist heart of the kingdom of eSwatini.
Sport
Competitions

Man: an Ever Tested Species

It's in our genes. For the pleasure of participating, for titles, honor or money, competitions give meaning to the world. Some are more eccentric than others.
End of the day at the Teesta river dam lake in Gajoldoba, India
Traveling
Dooars India

At the Gates of the Himalayas

We arrived at the northern threshold of West Bengal. The subcontinent gives way to a vast alluvial plain filled with tea plantations, jungle, rivers that the monsoon overflows over endless rice fields and villages bursting at the seams. On the verge of the greatest of the mountain ranges and the mountainous kingdom of Bhutan, for obvious British colonial influence, India treats this stunning region by Dooars.
Reindeer Racing, Kings Cup, Inari, Finland
Ethnic
Inari, Finland

The Wackiest Race on the Top of the World

Finland's Lapps have been competing in the tow of their reindeer for centuries. In the final of the Kings Cup - Porokuninkuusajot - , they face each other at great speed, well above the Arctic Circle and well below zero.
Portfolio, Got2Globe, Best Images, Photography, Images, Cleopatra, Dioscorides, Delos, Greece
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

The Earthly and the Celestial

Luderitz, Namibia
History
Lüderitz, Namibia

Wilkommen in Africa

Chancellor Bismarck has always disdained overseas possessions. Against his will and all odds, in the middle of the Race for Africa, merchant Adolf Lüderitz forced Germany to take over an inhospitable corner of the continent. The homonymous city prospered and preserves one of the most eccentric heritages of the Germanic empire.
La Digue, Seychelles, Anse d'Argent
Islands
La Digue, Seychelles

Monumental Tropical Granite

Beaches hidden by lush jungle, made of coral sand washed by a turquoise-emerald sea are anything but rare in the Indian Ocean. La Digue recreated itself. Around its coastline, massive boulders sprout that erosion has carved as an eccentric and solid tribute of time to the Nature.
Correspondence verification
Winter White
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
Baie d'Oro, Île des Pins, New Caledonia
Literature
Île-des-Pins, New Caledonia

The Island that Leaned against Paradise

In 1964, Katsura Morimura delighted the Japan with a turquoise novel set in Ouvéa. But the neighboring Île-des-Pins has taken over the title "The Nearest Island to Paradise" and thrills its visitors.
Kukenam reward
Nature
Mount Roraima, Venezuela

Time Travel to the Lost World of Mount Roraima

At the top of Mount Roraima, there are extraterrestrial scenarios that have resisted millions of years of erosion. Conan Doyle created, in "The Lost World", a fiction inspired by the place but never got to step on it.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Praslin Island, Cocos from the Sea, Seychelles, Eden Cove
Natural Parks

Praslin, Seychelles

 

The Eden of the Enigmatic Coco-de-Mer

For centuries, Arab and European sailors believed that the largest seed in the world, which they found on the coasts of the Indian Ocean in the shape of a woman's voluptuous hips, came from a mythical tree at the bottom of the oceans. The sensual island that always generated them left us ecstatic.
Robben Island Island, Apartheid, South Africa, Portico
UNESCO World Heritage
Robben Island, South Africa

The Island off the Apartheid

Bartolomeu Dias was the first European to glimpse Robben Island, when crossing the Cape of Storms. Over the centuries, the colonists turned it into an asylum and prison. Nelson Mandela left in 1982 after eighteen years in prison. Twelve years later, he became South Africa's first black president.
Characters
Look-alikes, Actors and Extras

Make-believe stars

They are the protagonists of events or are street entrepreneurs. They embody unavoidable characters, represent social classes or epochs. Even miles from Hollywood, without them, the world would be more dull.
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Beaches
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
orthodox procession
Religion
Suzdal, Russia

Centuries of Devotion to a Devoted Monk

Euthymius was a fourteenth-century Russian ascetic who gave himself body and soul to God. His faith inspired Suzdal's religiosity. The city's believers worship him as the saint he has become.
Flam Railway composition below a waterfall, Norway.
On Rails
Nesbyen to Flam, Norway

Flam Railway: Sublime Norway from the First to the Last Station

By road and aboard the Flam Railway, on one of the steepest railway routes in the world, we reach Flam and the entrance to the Sognefjord, the largest, deepest and most revered of the Scandinavian fjords. From the starting point to the last station, this monumental Norway that we have unveiled is confirmed.
Sentosa Island, Singapore, Family on Sentosa Artificial Beach
Society
Sentosa, Singapore

Singapore's Fun Island

It was a stronghold where the Japanese murdered Allied prisoners and welcomed troops who pursued Indonesian saboteurs. Today, the island of Sentosa fights the monotony that gripped the country.
Fruit sellers, Swarm, Mozambique
Daily life
Enxame Mozambique

Mozambican Fashion Service Area

It is repeated at almost all stops in towns of Mozambique worthy of appearing on maps. The machimbombo (bus) stops and is surrounded by a crowd of eager "businessmen". The products offered can be universal such as water or biscuits or typical of the area. In this region, a few kilometers from Nampula, fruit sales suceeded, in each and every case, quite intense.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Wildlife
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.