PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

feline respect
Young lion hesitates to approach one of PN Hwange's many herds of elephants.
A convenient drinking fountain
Elephants drink water from a tank installed by Somalisa Expeditions Lodge.
in the footstep
Robert analyzes animal marks left in the sands of the Kalahari Desert.
the youth clan
A pack of lions gathered by an artificial lagoon at PN Hwange.
Robert "Kalahari"
Guide Robert Chadyendia along one of the ponds frequented by the park's animals.
Roberta watches the pack descended from the late Cecil and Jericho lions.
cecil jr.
One of the young lions descended from Cecil.
Cecil Jr.
Two other lions have just devoured a zebra captured during the night.
eye to eye
Robert searches the surroundings on the way back to the Somali Expeditions Camp, looking for nocturnal animals.
Somali Expeditions Camp
The BOMA area (around the campfire) of the Somalisa Expeditions Camp.
On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.

Elephants, more than lions, are the emblematic and predominant animals of PN Hwange.

We still set our feet in the elegant main room of Somalisa Expeditions when some specimens surprise us. "Come here, take a look here!" Nônô calls us from the opening of the great military tent.

When we arrive at her company, we see four huge pachyderms lined up, sipping water from the tank the lodge has installed at the back of its outdoor patio. “You can go there without a problem. Do not pass is the chairs forward. They are used to meeting people!”.

PN Hwange, Zimbabwe, Somali Expeditions Camp

The BOMA area (around the campfire) of the Somalisa Expeditions Camp.

We move forward with the natural distrust of those who don't like to risk their lives to waste. Little by little, we came within two or three meters of the animals that interrupt the noisy sink to see what was coming.

One of them lets out a faint warning roar but continues to hydrate.

We sat on the dais enjoying its portentous beauty. Until the thirst dissipates, the court turns its back on us and vanishes into the vastness of the Kalahari.

Elephants, PN Hwange, Somali Lodge Zimbabwe

Elephants drink water from a tank installed by Somalisa Expeditions Lodge.

From that moment of such close communion, we would see hundreds of other elephants. His visits to Somalisa Expeditions would be repeated, some not so smooth.

All of this takes place in the time between arriving in the jeep and settling in the tent we had been assigned. That afternoon, we still went out for a game drive, led and guided by Robert Chadyendia, one of the Somalis' Kalahari animal life experts.

In Search of PN Hwange Lions

Robert learned that it wasn't exactly the first game drive we made. We didn't need to tell him that we liked to find big predators. Along the way, there were so many elephants that, little by little, they ceased to excite us. No matter how much they turned out, antelope-style herbivores would never fill our measure.

Aware of this requirement, Robert points to one of the artificially replenished ponds to keep animals in the park area. “Let's go take a look, you never know. At this time they can go anywhere but they love to drink there in the late afternoon…” His bet was won: “There's a jeep from another field. I would say yes, we have lions…”

When we reach the lagoon's surroundings, the first thing we notice is the strangeness of the evening. Two huge dead trees had their branches jagged against the sky.

Lagoon Guide, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

Guide Robert Chadyendia along one of the ponds frequented by the park's animals.

A flock of ducks wallowed with their heads in the water and two plovers chirped, as usual, annoyed and shrill.

The Clan that Inherited the Genes of the Failing Lion Cecil

The group of lionesses and young lions rested superbly a few yards beyond the far bank. “Are you seeing them? They are Cecil's descendants. After Cecil died, Jericho – the other lion he allied with – was left with two packs.

But Jericho died in October of last year, of natural causes. From then on, the older lions in one of the packs took over. Are those … "

Lions, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

A pack of lions gathered by an artificial lagoon at PN Hwange.

It got dark in three times. At dusk, the lions, who had done little more than slumber and stretch, get up and follow the same path from which we had come.

When they get into the low vegetation of the savanna, we lose track of them.

On the first of July 2015, the same happened to PN Hwange rangers – and Oxford University scientists – regarding the great lion Cecil, the star of the park.

Lion Footprints, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

Robert analyzes animal marks left in the sands of the Kalahari Desert.

The Life Lived by Leão Cecil at PN Hwange

Cecil had survived clashes with the Askaris, lions of a rival pack with consolidated power. To resist them, he teamed up with another lone male, Leander. Leander was mortally wounded by the leader of the Askaris when the bulkier and more aggressive one resisted a concerted attack by Cecil and Leander.

Cecil himself suffered considerable damage but recovered. After some time, he was driven by the remaining Askaris to the southeast wing of the park.

There, it grew and flourished. He became a majestic lion, with an unmistakable lush black mane.

Among lionesses and cubs, his pack brought together twenty-two specimens. In 2012, two newly arrived young lions chased him away. Jericho, who previously had another alliance, had his partner shot down by a trophy hunter.

In early 2013, archrivals Cecil and Jericho (an Askari) found themselves face to face. Instead of fighting, they realized that they would be better allies. At first, their relationship was troubled, with both trying to lash out to assert supremacy.

PN Hwange, Zimbabwe, Lions Feed

Two other lions have just devoured a zebra captured during the night.

Even so, they came to form an inseparable and unbeatable duo. Soon, they commanded two packs in a vast territory of an area frequented by visitors. They became the protagonists of PN Hwange.

Until a horrific new human intervention ended Cecil's life.

The Cowardly Killing of the Lion Cecil at the Hands of Walter Palmer

Like almost every Somali and other ranger in the park, Robert knows the story by heart and sauté.

It tells us a part of the fascinating nocturnal return to the starting point, under one of the most star-laden firmaments we have ever seen and, here and there, with a powerful focus at the ready, in search of nocturnal animals.

Despite the active opposition of many environmental institutions and countless public figures, recreational trophy hunting raises several million euros every year.

Mainly for this financial reason but, of course, due to the persistent demand from evil human creatures, “sport” thrives in countries like South Africa, Namibia and … Zimbabwe. One of the organizations that supports it the most is Safari Club International (SCI), an organization based in Tucson, Arizona.

Safari Club International's Sick Killers Club

SCI brings together thousands of trophy hunters from around the world with annual gems ranging from 65 to 225 USD. In addition to being behind the most influential pro-wildlife hunting lobbies, it organizes expeditions in which the latter is carried out, sealed with animal carnage, thus justifying the hunters' right to place trophies on the walls of their homes.

Though considered a special lion, Cecil was just one of SCI's thousands of annual victims.

On July 1, 2015, Jericho and Cecil were in an area that had become their territory but was outside the boundaries of PN Hwange, in a private reserve where recreational hunting was allowed.

Safari Guide, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

Roberta watches the pack descended from the late Cecil and Jericho lions.

Walter Palmer, an American from Minnesota and an SCI partner, had paid about $50.000 to a professional hunting guide, Theo Bronkorst, to help him kill a lion, if possible with a bow and arrow. Bronkorst allegedly lured Cecil with elephant meat bait.

Palmer wounded him with an arrow. Both chased the lion for hours on end. Palmer claims he killed Cecil – then thirteen years old – with one more arrow. Authorities claim he shot him down with a shotgun. The case was reported by wildlife protection institutions.

It has become a worldwide scandal. Palmer found himself harassed and insulted, both on social media and wherever he was seen. He had to close the dental clinic he maintained in Bloomington, Minnesota. The exterior of his Florida vacation home was adorned with successive messages of disgust and hate.

Public figures like Leonardo di Caprio rose up against him and dictated the extent of his persecution. The hunter-dentist insisted that he had no idea that Cecil was a famous lion but he never showed any regret for killing wild animals. There is nothing to indicate that you have left trophy hunting.

Palmer got rid of any convictions in both the US and Zimbabwe for having all papers in order at the time of the hunt.

Slaughter of the Cecil Lion. A Crime That Gone in Almost Unpunished History

The affliction quickly passed him. On the day one year after Cecil's slaughter, the paparazzi caught him driving a Porsche Cayenne Turbo and showing it off to the people at the valet parking from a posh Minneapolis bar. He was described as satisfied with life.

And yet, the animosity generated around it caused changes in the attitude of various national authorities towards recreational trophy hunting. In the US and the European Union, lawmakers made efforts to ban the importation of lion trophies altogether.

The controversy caused the three largest American airlines to ban its transport.

However, a petition called “Justice for Cecil” calling for the Zimbabwean government to stop issuing hunting permits for endangered animals was signed by 1.2 million people, despite, as noted by the Zimbabwean newspaper “The Chronicle”, 99.99% of his countrymen had no idea who the lion was.

PN Hwange, Lion Descendant Cecil, Zimbabwe

One of the young lions descended from Cecil.

The Political Consequences of the Death of the Lion Cecil

The government of Zimbabwe relented. It decreed that such deaths would now have to be justified and authorized by the General Directorate of National Parks and Wildlife of the country. For the sake of the lions we found in PN Hwange – several of them children and grandchildren of Cecil and Jericho – and many others.

The next day dawns with Warthog – an elephant so christened by Somali people for having its tusks sticking out like African wild boars – trying to break through the log barrier that protected the camp yard. Warthog is once again eager to devour the acacia fruits accumulated in the ground.

The elephant's obsession is such that Nônô is forced to call Robert. Using a stick and repeatedly clapping his hands, he finally manages to drive him away, only to spot a baboon hiding in the bathroom opposite the big tent.

“This one is now used to this”, they tell us as if it were nothing. “Hide over there and see if we leave the room. When we go out, he goes in and steals cookies and sugar!”

Back to the Kalahari and PN Hwange's Wilderness

Robert reminds Nônô to keep an eye on the animals. Soon after, we returned to the jeep and the discovery of PN Hwange. We pass by another pond frequented by dozens of elephants and to which dozens more flock in long caravans.

In any park, this would be the focus of attention but PN Hwange is special. Robert receives a radio communication. “They've found them again. Now they're all there.” Ten minutes later we find ourselves five or six meters from the pack left to their destinations by Cecil and Jericho.

PN Hwange, Zimbabwe, night safari

Robert searches the surroundings on the way back to the Somali Expeditions Camp, looking for nocturnal animals.

They had hunted a zebra during the night. A young lion asserted itself in a privileged place to devour what was left of the carcass. If any of the others made a move, he threatened them with the worst of his temper.

Not that it was necessary, but Robert made it clear that, in the already long absence of Cecil and Jericho, this young man from the pack was asserting himself as a likely new leader.

At that time, in Zimbabwe, a battle raged between the pro-hunt movement of the ignoble SCI and the force of environmentalists and conservationists who did everything to resist it.

In between was the government of Zimbabwe, led by Dean Robert Mugabe, the most resilient “lion” in all of Africa. Good thing, it would be that Nature could defend itself from human madness.

Article created in PN Hwange, Zimbabwe, with the precious support of AFRICAN BUSH CAMPS

Harare, Zimbabwewe

The Last Rales of Surreal Mugabué

In 2015, Zimbabwe's first lady Grace Mugabe said the 91-year-old president would rule until the age of 100 in a special wheelchair. Shortly thereafter, it began to insinuate itself into his succession. But in recent days, the generals have finally precipitated the removal of Robert Mugabe, who has replaced him with former Vice President Emmerson Mnangagwa.
Cape Cross, Namíbia

The Most Turbulent of the African Colonies

Diogo Cão landed in this cape of Africa in 1486, installed a pattern and turned around. The immediate coastline to the north and south was German, South African, and finally Namibian. Indifferent to successive transfers of nationality, one of the largest seal colonies in the world has maintained its hold there and animates it with deafening marine barks and endless tantrums.
NP Gorongosa, Mozambique

The Wild Heart of Mozambique shows Signs of Life

Gorongosa was home to one of the most exuberant ecosystems in Africa, but from 1980 to 1992 it succumbed to the Civil War waged between FRELIMO and RENAMO. Greg Carr, Voice Mail's millionaire inventor received a message from the Mozambican ambassador to the UN challenging him to support Mozambique. For the good of the country and humanity, Carr pledged to resurrect the stunning national park that the Portuguese colonial government had created there.
Great ZimbabweZimbabwe

Great Zimbabwe, Little Bira Dance

Karanga natives of the KwaNemamwa village display traditional Bira dances to privileged visitors to the ruins of Great Zimbabwe. the most iconic place in Zimbabwe, the one who, after the decree of colonial Rhodesia's independence, inspired the name of the new and problematic nation.  
Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

On the eminence of the coast of Mozambique, the province of KwaZulu-Natal is home to an unexpected South Africa. Deserted beaches full of dunes, vast estuarine swamps and hills covered with fog fill this wild land also bathed by the Indian Ocean. It is shared by the subjects of the always proud Zulu nation and one of the most prolific and diverse fauna on the African continent.
Lake Manyara NP, Tanzania

Hemingway's Favorite Africa

Situated on the western edge of the Rift Valley, Lake Manyara National Park is one of the smallest but charming and richest in Europe. wild life of Tanzania. In 1933, between hunting and literary discussions, Ernest Hemingway dedicated a month of his troubled life to him. He narrated those adventurous safari days in “The Green Hills of Africa".
Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

On the world map, south of the famous brazilian wetland, a little-known flooded region appears, but almost as vast and rich in biodiversity. the Guarani expression Y bera defines it as “shining waters”. The adjective fits more than its strong luminance.
Masai Mara, Kenya

A Journey Through the Masai Lands

The Mara savannah became famous for the confrontation between millions of herbivores and their predators. But, in a reckless communion with wildlife, it is the Masai humans who stand out there.
Savuti, Botswana

Savuti's Elephant-Eating Lions

A patch of the Kalahari Desert dries up or is irrigated depending on the region's tectonic whims. In Savuti, lions have become used to depending on themselves and prey on the largest animals in the savannah.
Okavango Delta, Botswana

Not all rivers reach the sea

Third longest river in southern Africa, the Okavango rises in the Angolan Bié plateau and runs 1600km to the southeast. It gets lost in the Kalahari Desert where it irrigates a dazzling wetland teeming with wildlife.
Chobe NP, Botswana

Chobe: A River on the Border of Life with Death

Chobe marks the divide between Botswana and three of its neighboring countries, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. But its capricious bed has a far more crucial function than this political delimitation.
Amboseli National Park, Mount Kilimanjaro, Normatior Hill
Amboseli National Park, Kenya

A Gift from the Kilimanjaro

The first European to venture into these Masai haunts was stunned by what he found. And even today, large herds of elephants and other herbivores roam the pastures irrigated by the snow of Africa's biggest mountain.
Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Yaks
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit 11th: yak karkha a Thorong Phedi, Nepal,

Arrival to the Foot of the Canyon

In just over 6km, we climbed from 4018m to 4450m, at the base of Thorong La canyon. Along the way, we questioned if what we felt were the first problems of Altitude Evil. It was never more than a false alarm.
coast, fjord, Seydisfjordur, Iceland
Architecture & Design
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
self-flagellation, passion of christ, philippines
Ceremonies and Festivities
Marinduque, Philippines

The Philippine Passion of Christ

No nation around is Catholic but many Filipinos are not intimidated. In Holy Week, they surrender to the belief inherited from the Spanish colonists. Self-flagellation becomes a bloody test of faith
Bonaire, island, Netherlands Antilles, ABC, Caribbean, Rincon
Rincon, Bonaire

The Pioneering Corner of the Netherlands Antilles

Shortly after Columbus' arrival in the Americas, the Castilians discovered a Caribbean island they called Brazil. Afraid of the pirate threat, they hid their first village in a valley. One century after, the Dutch took over this island and renamed it Bonaire. They didn't erase the unpretentious name of the trailblazer colony: Rincon.
Singapore Asian Capital Food, Basmati Bismi

The Asian Food Capital

There were 4 ethnic groups in Singapore, each with its own culinary tradition. Added to this was the influence of thousands of immigrants and expatriates on an island with half the area of ​​London. It was the nation with the greatest gastronomic diversity in the Orient.
Jingkieng Wahsurah, Nongblai Village Roots Bridge, Meghalaya, India
Meghalaya, India

The Bridges of the Peoples that Create Roots

The unpredictability of rivers in the wettest region on Earth never deterred the Khasi and the Jaintia. Faced with the abundance of trees elastic fig tree in their valleys, these ethnic groups got used to molding their branches and strains. From their time-lost tradition, they have bequeathed hundreds of dazzling root bridges to future generations.
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
Hikers on the Ice Lake Trail, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Annapurna Circuit: 7th - Braga - Ice Lake, Nepal,

Annapurna Circuit – The Painful Acclimatization of the Ice Lake

On the way up to the Ghyaru village, we had a first and unexpected show of how ecstatic the Annapurna Circuit can be tasted. Nine kilometers later, in Braga, due to the need to acclimatize, we climbed from 3.470m from Braga to 4.600m from Lake Kicho Tal. We only felt some expected tiredness and the increase in the wonder of the Annapurna Mountains.
Early morning on the lake

Nantou, Taiwan

In the Heart of the Other China

Nantou is Taiwan's only province isolated from the Pacific Ocean. Those who discover the mountainous heart of this region today tend to agree with the Portuguese navigators who named Taiwan Formosa.

sunlight photography, sun, lights
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 2)

One Sun, So Many Lights

Most travel photos are taken in sunlight. Sunlight and weather form a capricious interaction. Learn how to predict, detect and use at its best.
Terraces of Sistelo, Serra do Soajo, Arcos de Valdevez, Minho, Portugal
Sistelo, Peneda-Gerês, Portugal

From the “Little Portuguese Tibet” to the Corn Fortresses

We leave the cliffs of Srª da Peneda, heading for Arcos de ValdeVez and the villages that an erroneous imaginary dubbed Little Portuguese Tibet. From these terraced villages, we pass by others famous for guarding, as golden and sacred treasures, the ears they harvest. Whimsical, the route reveals the resplendent nature and green fertility of these lands in Peneda-Gerês.
Montserrat island, Plymouth, Soufriere volcano, buried houses
Plymouth, Montserrat

From Ashes to Ashes

Built at the foot of Mount Soufrière Hills, atop magmatic deposits, the solitary city on the Caribbean island of Montserrat has grown doomed. As feared, in 1995, the volcano also entered a long eruptive period. Plymouth is the only capital in a political territory that remains buried and abandoned.
Geothermal, Iceland Heat, Ice Land, Geothermal, Blue Lagoon
Winter White

The Geothermal Coziness of the Ice Island

Most visitors value Iceland's volcanic scenery for its beauty. Icelanders also draw from them heat and energy crucial to the life they lead to the Arctic gates.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Soufrière and Pitons, Saint Luci
Natural Parks
Soufriere, Saint Lucia

The Great Pyramids of the Antilles

Perched above a lush coastline, the twin peaks Pitons are the hallmark of Saint Lucia. They have become so iconic that they have a place in the highest notes of East Caribbean Dollars. Right next door, residents of the former capital Soufrière know how precious their sight is.
tarsio, bohol, philippines, out of this world
UNESCO World Heritage
Bohol, Philippines

Other-wordly Philippines

The Philippine archipelago spans 300.000 km² of the Pacific Ocean. Part of the Visayas sub-archipelago, Bohol is home to small alien-looking primates and the extraterrestrial hills of the Chocolate Hills.
Look-alikes, Actors and Extras

Make-believe stars

They are the protagonists of events or are street entrepreneurs. They embody unavoidable characters, represent social classes or epochs. Even miles from Hollywood, without them, the world would be more dull.
Tarrafal, Santiago, Cape Verde, Tarrafal Bay
Tarrafal, Santiago, Cape Verde

The Tarrafal of Freedom and Slow Life

The village of Tarrafal delimits a privileged corner of the island of Santiago, with its few white sand beaches. Those who are enchanted there find it even more difficult to understand the colonial atrocity of the neighboring prison camp.
Aurora lights up the Pisang Valley, Nepal.
Annapurna Circuit: 3rd- Upper Banana, Nepal,

An Unexpected Snowy Aurora

At the first glimmers of light, the sight of the white mantle that had covered the village during the night dazzles us. With one of the toughest walks on the Annapurna Circuit ahead of us, we postponed the match as much as possible. Annoyed, we left Upper Pisang towards Escort when the last snow faded.
Train Kuranda train, Cairns, Queensland, Australia
On Rails
Cairns-Kuranda, Australia

Train to the Middle of the Jungle

Built out of Cairns to save miners isolated in the rainforest from starvation by flooding, the Kuranda Railway eventually became the livelihood of hundreds of alternative Aussies.
Kente Festival Agotime, Ghana, gold
Kumasi to Kpetoe, Ghana

A Celebration-Trip of the Ghanian Fashion

After some time in the great Ghanaian capital ashanti we crossed the country to the border with Togo. The reasons for this long journey were the kente, a fabric so revered in Ghana that several tribal chiefs dedicate a sumptuous festival to it every year.
Busy intersection of Tokyo, Japan
Daily life
Tokyo, Japan

The Endless Night of the Rising Sun Capital

Say that Tokyo do not sleep is an understatement. In one of the largest and most sophisticated cities on the face of the Earth, twilight marks only the renewal of the frenetic daily life. And there are millions of souls that either find no place in the sun, or make more sense in the “dark” and obscure turns that follow.
Asian buffalo herd, Maguri Beel, Assam, India
Maguri Bill, India

A Wetland in the Far East of India

The Maguri Bill occupies an amphibious area in the Assamese vicinity of the river Brahmaputra. It is praised as an incredible habitat especially for birds. When we navigate it in gondola mode, we are faced with much (but much) more life than just the asada.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.