Hanoi, Vietnam

Under the Order of Chaos


lawless city
A self-managed intersection of the Vietnamese capital.
Asian balance
Fruit seller walks down a city street.
sore pawn
Passerby is run over while crossing a road that is too risky.
Outdoor Barber Shop
A street barber takes care of a client's haircut.
Right and Left Priority
Aging vehicles skirt a roundabout in Hanoi's historic center.
Last Register
Craftsman carves a headstone in his shop.
back to the infernal city
Residents cross a garden bridge to Hoam Kiem Lake.
patriotic home
A restaurant employee watches the city leaning on the Vietnamese flag.
framed reflection
The reflected image of a fruit seller in a shop mirror.
Portfolio
Seller displays his postcards with illustrations from Hanoi.
Lamps and motorcycles
Colorful lanterns on a colorful city street.
winter in Hanoi
View of the central area of ​​the Vietnamese capital around Hoam Kiem lake.
Still Ho Chi Minh
Propagandist poster of communist heritage praises the figure of Ho Chi-Minh
And more Ho Chi Minh
The mausoleum that honors the "eternal" character of Ho chi-Minh, the father of the Vietnamese nation.
Hanoi has long ignored scant traffic lights, other traffic signs and decorative traffic lights. It lives in its own rhythm and in an order of chaos unattainable by the West.

The Asian winter extended to the maximum of its geographic limit and despite being almost 40º in Ho Chi-Minh – 1600 km south of Hanoi, a little less in Hue – it is unusually cold in the Vietnamese capital.

Having just arrived, we are taken by surprise and we move as fast as we can through the streets looking for a store that sells us coats something more modern than the post-communist look still in fashion around these parts.

Despite the icy fog, the day unfolds as usual in the garden of Hoam Kiem lake (Lake of the Restored Sword).

winter in Hanoi

View of the central part of the Vietnamese capital around the Hoam Kiem lake

Groups of seniors indulge in endless matches of traditional Asian games like XiangQi and Mahjong. Or exercise the body playing badminton or practicing tai chi.

Meanwhile, vendors run after visitors to the Ngoc Son temple and The Huc bridge that gives access to it. They are foisted on postcards, photocopied Lonely Planet guides and small handicrafts, usually made by family members.

Portfolio, Transit of Hanoi, Under the Order of Chaos, Vietnam

Seller displays his postcards with illustrations from Hanoi.

The First Serious Confrontation with Traffic Chaos in Hanoi

Crossing the garden and the lake does not present us with any major difficulties. We could no longer say the same about Dinh Tien Hoang Street, right next door, and the intersections where it ends.

Endless motorbikes pass at full speed. They skilfully avoid those that come from other streets and in the opposite direction. Cyclists do the same, more slowly.

Like the motorcycles and the scooters, bypass cars, the occasional lorry and old buses that force their way through and contaminate the urban atmosphere with immense discharges of black smoke.

Hanoi Transit, Under the Order of Chaos, Vietnam

Aging vehicles skirt a roundabout in Hanoi's historic center.

Apart from these vehicles, the streets of Hanoi still hold room for the eventual overloaded cart drawn by horses or buffaloes.

And for the fearless or unconscious pedestrians who cross them endlessly, confident that everyone else will avoid them.

Asian Equilibrium, Hanoi Transit, Under the Order of Chaos, Vietnam

Fruit seller walks down a city street.

In Rome, be a Roman. In Vietnam, Vietnamese.

We get tired of waiting for an open that insists on not appearing. We have faith in the faith of these passersby. we hit the road. Like Moses backpackers, we separate the traffic to get to the other side.

Things are going well for us. But bad for a woman trying her luck just a few feet away.

Two motorbikes and a bicycle hesitated as to which direction to detour. In the middle of the disturbance, one of the motorcycles knocked her down and hit her head on the ground.

Accident, Hanoi Transit, Under the Order of Chaos, Vietnam

Passerby run over while crossing a road that is too risky, in traffic in Hanoi

Only accidents like these force traffic officers to abandon their uselessness. One of them, identified by his old-fashioned dark green uniform, leaves his small pulpit protected.

Appears to get up and recompose the lady who appears to be only slightly injured. Once the incident has been resolved, the police officer returns to his post.

Hang Dao Avenue Down Below, By a Profusion of Funeral Homes

We gained the desired access to the long Hang Dao avenue. We walk through it pressed by the unpleasant temperature, keeping an eye on all the stores and businesses that appear.

In Hanoi, as in neighboring China, trade is organized in a compartmentalized way. We hit the nail on the burial and funeral sector. We first pass dozens of competing florists with stalls full of gaudy wreaths that employees refresh.

There follows an area of ​​tombstone makers that keep our attention and our pace.

Inside one of these workshops, an artisan inscribes commissioned messages on the blackboard. we see him surrounded by golden plaques in honor of the dead Vietnamese, immortalized in color and black and white photographs.

Last Record, Transit of Hanoi, Under the Order of Chaos, Vietnam

Craftsman carves a headstone in his shop.

Among others, we find Lê Van Luc who died in 2001 at the age of 72. Nguyen Thi Hat who died in 1954.

And, to our surprise, Anna Duong Tu Huong, a Catholic who was declared dead on March 12.3.1982, XNUMX, is blessed with several sacred illustrations of Our Lady but, for lack of a more credible image, appears with the temporary face of Britney Spears.

It is not the amazement that deters us either. A few blocks down, we finally come to an area with sportswear stores. We buy Polartecs of reasonable quality.

Back to the Chaos at the Heart of Hanoi

The newly acquired comfort and the city map that we are equipped with inspire us to return to the center by a different path.

This alternative arrests us with the eccentric view of a street occupied by barbers, all of them installed against a wall, under the protection of small removable tarpaulins.

Even though it's the coldest season in northern Vietnam, judging by the amount of hair that has accumulated on the ground, business is booming. It demands maximum dedication from each artist.

Barber Shop, Transit Hanoi, Under the Order of Chaos, Vietnam

A street barber takes care of a Hanoi customer's haircut

Once again in the vicinity of Hoam Kiem Lake, the traffic noise increases. A lone biker stands on the far side of the yard.

During Vietnam War, the entire Communist era and, until some time ago, any motorbike fulfilled the most unreasonable dreams of the Vietnamese. After the fusion of the North with the South and the opening of the country to the capitalist virtues – which, in part, followed the Chinese molds – the financial power of Vietnam increased enormously.

How the ambitions of the Vietnamese who dared to want more and more grew. On a wide leather seat, supported by the chrome handlebars, raised and hung with fur fringes, a young man from Hanoi seems to have just fulfilled one of his dreams.

Shows a new Harley Davidson to the city, indifferent to the common motor scooters and scooters that pass by.

The Chaotic Transit of Hanoi, Seen from Above

We thought of returning to the guest-house that hosts us, but we noticed a bar installed on an outdoor terrace on top of a building.

We had already faced and conquered the harmonious chaos of traffic in Hanoi. We had also witnessed one of their incidents. It was time for us to admire and celebrate.

patriotic home

A restaurant employee watches the city leaning on the Vietnamese flag, high above the chaos of Hanoi

Without haste, without cold or any other kind of limitations, we climbed to the communist heights of the building. We settled at a table overlooking the avenues ahead.

We taste the “Hanoi” beer and enjoy the motorbikes, bicycles, cars and pedestrians flowing in the famous orderly chaos of the city.

Lawless City, Transit of Hanoi, Under the Order of Chaos, Vietnam

A crossroads of self-managed chaos, from Hanoi.

Hue, Vietnam

The Red Heritage of Imperial Vietnam

It suffered the worst hardships of the Vietnam War and was despised by the Vietcong due to the feudal past. The national-communist flags fly over its walls but Hué regains its splendor.
Hi Ann, Vietnam

The Vietnamese Port That Got to See Ships

Hoi An was one of the most important trading posts in Asia. Political changes and the siltation of the Thu Bon River dictated its decline and preserved it as the most picturesque city in Vietnam.

Nha Trang-Doc Let, Vietnam

The Salt of the Vietnamese Land

In search of attractive coastlines in old Indochina, we become disillusioned with the roughness of Nha Trang's bathing area. And it is in the feminine and exotic work of the Hon Khoi salt flats that we find a more pleasant Vietnam.

Philippines

The Philippine Road Lords

With the end of World War II, the Filipinos transformed thousands of abandoned American jeeps and created the national transportation system. Today, the exuberant jeepneys are for the curves.
Chiang Khong - Luang Prabang, Laos.

Slow Boat, Down the Mekong River

Laos' beauty and lower cost are good reasons to sail between Chiang Khong and Luang Prabang. But this long descent of the Mekong River can be as exhausting as it is picturesque.
Ho Chi Minh a of Angkor, Cambodia

The Crooked Path to Angkor

From Vietnam onwards, Cambodia's crumbling roads and minefields take us back to the years of Khmer Rouge terror. We survive and are rewarded with the vision of the greatest religious temple
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Safari
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Thorong Pedi to High Camp, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Lone Walker
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 12th - Thorong Phedi a High camp

The Prelude to the Supreme Crossing

This section of the Annapurna Circuit is only 1km away, but in less than two hours it takes you from 4450m to 4850m and to the entrance to the great canyon. Sleeping in High Camp is a test of resistance to Mountain Evil that not everyone passes.
The Little-Big Senglea II
Architecture & Design
Senglea, Malta

An Overcrowded Malta

At the turn of the 8.000th century, Senglea housed 0.2 inhabitants in 2 km3.000, a European record, today, it has “only” XNUMX neighborhood Christians. It is the smallest, most overcrowded and genuine of the Maltese cities.
Boats on ice, Hailuoto Island, Finland.
Adventure
Hailuoto, Finland

A Refuge in the Gulf of Bothnia

During winter, the island of Hailuoto is connected to the rest of Finland by the country's longest ice road. Most of its 986 inhabitants esteem, above all, the distance that the island grants them.
Moa on a beach in Rapa Nui/Easter Island
Ceremonies and Festivities
Easter Island, Chile

The Take-off and Fall of the Bird-Man Cult

Until the XNUMXth century, the natives of Easter Island they carved and worshiped great stone gods. All of a sudden, they started to drop their moai. The veneration of tanatu manu, a half-human, half-sacred leader, decreed after a dramatic competition for an egg.
Creepy Goddess Graffiti, Haight Ashbury, San Francisco, USA, United States America
Cities
The Haight, San Francisco, USA

Orphans of the Summer of Love

Nonconformity and creativity are still present in the old Flower Power district. But almost 50 years later, the hippie generation has given way to a homeless, uncontrolled and even aggressive youth.
Meal
Markets

A Market Economy

The law of supply and demand dictates their proliferation. Generic or specific, covered or open air, these spaces dedicated to buying, selling and exchanging are expressions of life and financial health.
the projectionist
Culture
Sainte-Luce, Martinique

The Nostalgic Projectionist

From 1954 to 1983, Gérard Pierre screened many of the famous films arriving in Martinique. 30 years after the closing of the room in which he worked, it was still difficult for this nostalgic native to change his reel.
4th of July Fireworks-Seward, Alaska, United States
Sport
Seward, Alaska

The Longest 4th of July

The independence of the United States is celebrated, in Seward, Alaska, in a modest way. Even so, the 4th of July and its celebration seem to have no end.
Twelve Apostles, Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Australia
Traveling
Great Ocean Road, Australia

Ocean Out, along the Great Australian South

One of the favorite escapes of the Australian state of Victoria, via B100 unveils a sublime coastline that the ocean has shaped. We only needed a few kilometers to understand why it was named The Great Ocean Road.
Dances
Ethnic
Okinawa, Japan

Ryukyu Dances: Centuries old. In No Hurry.

The Ryukyu kingdom prospered until the XNUMXth century as a trading post for the China and Japan. From the cultural aesthetics developed by its courtly aristocracy, several styles of slow dance were counted.
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

life outside

Holy Sepulcher, Jerusalem, Christian churches, priest with insensate
History
Holy Sepulcher Basilica, Jerusalem, Israel

The Supreme Temple of the Old Christian Churches

It was built by Emperor Constantine, on the site of Jesus' Crucifixion and Resurrection and an ancient temple of Venus. In its genesis, a Byzantine work, the Basilica of the Holy Sepulcher is, today, shared and disputed by various Christian denominations as the great unifying building of Christianity.
Princess Yasawa Cruise, Maldives
Islands
Maldives

Cruise the Maldives, among Islands and Atolls

Brought from Fiji to sail in the Maldives, Princess Yasawa has adapted well to new seas. As a rule, a day or two of itinerary is enough for the genuineness and delight of life on board to surface.
Geothermal, Iceland Heat, Ice Land, Geothermal, Blue Lagoon
Winter White
Iceland

The Geothermal Coziness of the Ice Island

Most visitors value Iceland's volcanic scenery for its beauty. Icelanders also draw from them heat and energy crucial to the life they lead to the Arctic gates.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Literature
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Crocodiles, Queensland Tropical Australia Wild
Nature
Cairns to Cape Tribulation, Australia

Tropical Queensland: An Australia Too Wild

Cyclones and floods are just the meteorological expression of Queensland's tropical harshness. When it's not the weather, it's the deadly fauna of the region that keeps its inhabitants on their toes.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Autumn
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Argentinean flag on the Perito Moreno-Argentina lake-glacier
Natural Parks
Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina

The Resisting Glacier

Warming is supposedly global, but not everywhere. In Patagonia, some rivers of ice resist. From time to time, the advance of the Perito Moreno causes landslides that bring Argentina to a halt.
Solovetsky, Islands, Archipelago, Russia, Autumn, UAZ, Autumn road
UNESCO World Heritage
Bolshoi Solovetsky, Russia

A Celebration of the Russian Autumn of Life

At the edge of the Arctic Ocean, in mid-September, the boreal foliage glows golden. Welcomed by generous cicerones, we praise the new human times of Bolshoi Solovetsky, famous for having hosted the first of the Soviet Gulag prison camps.
now from above ladder, sorcerer of new zealand, Christchurch, new zealand
Characters
Christchurch, New Zealand

New Zealand's Cursed Wizard

Despite his notoriety in the antipodes, Ian Channell, the New Zealand sorcerer, failed to predict or prevent several earthquakes that struck Christchurch. At the age of 88, after 23 years of contract with the city, he made very controversial statements and ended up fired.
mini-snorkeling
Beaches
Phi Phi Islands, Thailand

Back to Danny Boyle's The Beach

It's been 15 years since the debut of the backpacker classic based on the novel by Alex Garland. The film popularized the places where it was shot. Shortly thereafter, the XNUMX tsunami literally washed some away off the map. Today, their controversial fame remains intact.
Easter Seurassari, Helsinki, Finland, Marita Nordman
Religion
Helsinki, Finland

The Pagan Passover of Seurasaari

In Helsinki, Holy Saturday is also celebrated in a Gentile way. Hundreds of families gather on an offshore island, around lit fires to chase away evil spirits, witches and trolls
white pass yukon train, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA
On Rails
Skagway, Alaska

A Klondike's Gold Fever Variant

The last great American gold rush is long over. These days, hundreds of cruise ships each summer pour thousands of well-heeled visitors into the shop-lined streets of Skagway.
Society
Military

Defenders of Their Homelands

Even in times of peace, we detect military personnel everywhere. On duty, in cities, they fulfill routine missions that require rigor and patience.
Busy intersection of Tokyo, Japan
Daily life
Tokyo, Japan

The Endless Night of the Rising Sun Capital

Say that Tokyo do not sleep is an understatement. In one of the largest and most sophisticated cities on the face of the Earth, twilight marks only the renewal of the frenetic daily life. And there are millions of souls that either find no place in the sun, or make more sense in the “dark” and obscure turns that follow.
ice tunnel, black gold route, Valdez, Alaska, USA
Wildlife
Valdez, Alaska

On the Black Gold Route

In 1989, the Exxon Valdez oil tanker caused a massive environmental disaster. The vessel stopped plying the seas, but the victim city that gave it its name continues on the path of crude oil from the Arctic Ocean.
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Scenic Flights
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.