Guanajuato, Mexico

The City that Shines in All Colors

afternoon shadow
The Basilica and the University
Guanajuato Blues
Friends of the Bouganvileas
Callejon del Beso
El Pipila
Future Student Museum
Frida and the Mono
La Valenciana Mine and Church
La Valenciana Church
The balcony
Face vs Back
above Guanajuato
old mine
street of all colors
The Precious House
the Quincenera
View over the Center
During the XNUMXth century, it was the city that produced the most silver in the world and one of the most opulent in Mexico and colonial Spain. Several of its mines are still active, but the impressive wealth of Guanuajuato lies in the multicolored eccentricity of its history and secular heritage.

Over time, Guanajuato became a city of rituals.

We have them for all tastes. Those who, like us, have recently entered there, begin by surrendering to the ascent-pilgrimage to the Cerro del Pipila.

The first of the ascents, we do it in the panoramic funicular, departing from the back of Teatro Juárez. We had already circled the avenues, streets and alleys, from the almost edge of the Jardin El Contador to the central and neuralgic Jardin La Unión.

As the small cabin climbs the western slope, it reveals something different: the stratification of the houses of Guanajuato, the bright but harmonious shape as it was molded to the capricious relief of the Sierra de San Gregorio, located in an area of ​​the center of the country that Mexicans know it as Bajio.

This, despite being above 2000m altitude.

The Dazzling Multicolor Casario de Guanajuato

The change in perspective reveals how its squares and urban veins are more intricate than they appear.

It exposes us to successive levels of undulating houses, homes above homes, buildings and more buildings perched, vying for the parched slopes.

The Purépecha Indians who inhabited this heart of Mexico, upon the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, knew it for quanax huato, translatable as frog hill(s). The Europeans adjusted both the phonics and the spelling.

The cabin leans against your dock. We walked through a few interior corridors. Then, others, exterior, aimed at the apex of the viewpoint.

When we conquered it, the last light of day gilded high and fortunate sections, sometimes of the houses, sometimes of the arid slopes.

We leaned over the balcony.

We looked from one end of the heights of the valley to the other, looking for the pockets of color that the shadow spared.

Meanwhile, a crowd swelled which the dusk made festive. Mexican outsiders and Gringos they gave themselves to selfies endless, with the scenery in the background.

El Pípila, the Hero of the Mexican Independence of Guanajuato

And to others that framed the towering statue of Juan José de los Reyes Martínez, El Pípila.

El Pípila is, par excellence, the independence hero of the city. At a time when the movement's leader and father of the Mexican homeland Miguel Hidalgo was opening the hostilities against the Spanish Crown and the Loyalists, the latter were fortified in a grain silo.

Hidalgo's forces achieved the famous Siege of Alhondiga.

However, the loyalists shot back anyone who approached the building. So it was, until the miner El Pípila tied a stone slab to his back.

Protected at the height, he crept to the entrance with a tar jar and a torch and set fire to the wooden doors of Alhondiga. The collapse of the doors paved the way for the conquest of the building, the city and the independence of Mexico.

El Pípila and the courage he showed are immortalized in the large stone statue, adorned with the saying “aun hay other garlics for burning".

Around the monument, divided between dozens of stalls, different fires and smoke abounded.

The End of Day Party at Cerro del Pípila

Instead of revolution, those of Mexican gastronomy, of its snacks and others, chapulines (locusts) fried with lemon and spicy, champurrados e atole (fermented corn drinks) flavored with marzipan, peanuts and others.

And the most banal tacos, foreigners and burritos, pushed with lively conversation and the unavoidable micheladas.

We wait for the win of the twilight. We went down, on foot, with no definite direction.

To the gaudy and exuberant historic center demarcated by the Basilica of Nª Srª de Guanajuato, the Juárez Theater and the University.

The affinity we feel with Lisbon when admiring the house amphitheater from the viewpoint, we feel it again when we get lost in the alleys and alleys, aware that, as long as the path remains descending and steep, it would end up in the smooth center of the city. .

When we arrive at the sort of trimmed triangle at Jardin La Unión, the party do El Pipila Hill has an extension.

Musicians mariachis in glossy black and yellow shirts they play popular themes from table to table, confident in the generous gratifications of spectators.

Street artists performed different acts.

The Students, the Student Women and the Tunas of Guanajuato

Guanajuato is, at the same time, one of the main academic cities in Mexico, comparable to Coimbra.

It houses almost thirty-two thousand students who follow the motto “the truth will make them free” and one of the most peculiar and impressive central university buildings in the world. face of the earth.

There we stopped to appreciate a lengthy delivery of diplomas.

In the same street, young members of the students, press tickets for their famous callejoneadas.

There are tourist, musical, comical, picturesque tours in which the hosts guide the participants and entertain them by playing an array of instruments and a little bit of everything.

Nearby, we come across Sebastian, dressed in traditional attire and in the company of his father José Manuel. Invite us in.

For a house overflowing with trophies, gowns, cassocks, instruments, diplomas, photos of tuna exhibitions in other countries, an endless number of academic items.

“We are in the process of cleaning up, don't take this the wrong way”, they confess. “If all goes well, this chaos will give rise to the Student Museum of Guanajuato.

The future museum is located next to another emblematic place in the city, also frequented by the callejoneadas.

The Sanctuary to the Concurrent Love of the Callejon del Beso

O alley of the kiss it's a tight alley, just 68cm wide.

He became famous for the forbidden passion of a couple, Ana and Carlos, who their respective families forbade to see each other.

Gifted with the proximity of their balconies, Ana and Carlos met and kissed often. Until Ana's father caught them in the middle of a kiss and killed his daughter with a dagger in the heart.

Today the alley of the kiss it is seen as a sanctuary of love.

For much of the day, visitors line up there to photograph themselves kissing.

And yet, in its genesis, Guanajuato had little time for romance and feelings.

Guanajuato and the Endless Wealth in Silver and Gold

The city grew out of silver and gold. It improved from the record-breaking wealth that the region hid in hyperbolic veins, deposited on the slopes.

When the Spaniards arrived, in 1540, the natives were already exploring them without difficulty. Narratives that reached the invaders asserted that the natives found nuggets of gold on the surface of the ground.

Mineral deposits proved so rich that conquerors rushed to recruit defenses and erect forts.

The objective was to repel the attacks of the fierce Chichimeca natives to the newly named post of Real de Minas de Guanajuato, shortly afterwards, promoted to the city of Santa Fé de Real de Minas de Guanajuato.

News of the abundance of gold and silver traveled through Mexico. Soon, they arrived in Spain. Immigrants from Spain, Creoles, mestizo and native workers made the city grow.

With more hands to prospect, other veins were found and new mines opened.

Mines and More Mines Around a Wealthy City

San Barnabé was followed by Raias. Certain mines originated respective neighborhoods: Cata, La Pastita, San Luisito and Valenciana.

The pioneer mine, that of San Barnabé, produced almost half a millennium, until 1928.

Others, more recent, have proven even more profitable and continue to generate wealth.

This is the case of Valenciana, operational from 1774 and which, until the beginning of the XNUMXth century, produced two thirds of the world's silver.

On one of the days dedicated to Guanajuato, we visited it. Contrary to expectations, the short trip is made up the slopes, towards the northern top of the city, where the houses almost touch the sky.

We passed majestic churches, commissioned with funding from the families that owned the mines, in gratitude to the divine for their good fortune.

Here, the church stands out. churrigueresque (Mexican Baroque style) of La Valenciana, built in the XNUMXth century next to the opening of the homonymous mine.

With its right tower still unfinished, unlike the walls and the bastion that, further down, made it possible to defend the wealth from the bandits.

We descend to a depth of 70m from one of the wells. There we felt the claustrophobic atmosphere in which around 3500 indigenous people were kept working, sometimes for more than fifteen hours a day.

As explained by the guide Edgar, precious metal veins and open mines appeared all over the place.

Not all excavations in the city were made for the direct reason of gold and silver.

Guanajuato, the City of Tunnels

Guanajuato is based on an extensive and intricate network of old tunnels, with almost 9 km, if you add the lengths of El Pípila, El Minero, La Galereña and the rest.

These tunnels were opened for a primary reason: the fulminant rainy season in these parts of Mexico and the floods generated by the thickening of the Guanajuato River.

They form a strange underworld that, in spaces, opens up to the sky and from which houses and buildings with post-colonial legos look emerge again. Guanajuato has all these dimensions and colors.

In almost five hundred years of history and of a wealthy colonization, it hides many more.

Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon), Chihuahua, Mexico

The Deep Mexico of the Barrancas del Cobre

Without warning, the Chihuahua highlands give way to endless ravines. Sixty million geological years have furrowed them and made them inhospitable. The Rarámuri indigenous people continue to call them home.
chihuahua, Mexico

¡Ay Chihuahua !

Mexicans have adapted this expression as one of their favorite manifestations of surprise. While we wander through the capital of the homonymous state of the Northwest, we often exclaim it.
Real de Catorce, San Luis Potosí, Mexico

From New Spain Lode to Mexican Pueblo Mágico

At the beginning of the XNUMXth century, it was one of the mining towns that guaranteed the most silver to the Spanish Crown. A century later, the silver had been devalued in such a way that Real de Catorce was abandoned. Its history and the peculiar scenarios filmed by Hollywood have made it one of the most precious villages in Mexico.
Real de Catorce, San Luis Potosí, Mexico

The Depreciation of Silver that Led to that of the Pueblo (Part II)

With the turn of the XNUMXth century, the value of the precious metal hit bottom. From a prodigious town, Real de Catorce became a ghost. Still discovering, we explore the ruins of the mines at their origin and the charm of the Pueblo resurrected.
Yucatan, Mexico

The End of the End of the World

The announced day passed but the End of the World insisted on not arriving. In Central America, today's Mayans watched and put up with incredulity all the hysteria surrounding their calendar.
Campeche, Mexico

200 Years of Playing with Luck

At the end of the XNUMXth century, the peasants surrendered to a game introduced to cool the fever of cash cards. Today, played almost only for Abuelites, lottery little more than a fun place.
San Cristóbal de las Casas a Campeche, Mexico

A Relay of Faith

The Catholic equivalent of Our Lady of Fátima, Our Lady of Guadalupe moves and moves Mexico. Its faithful cross the country's roads, determined to bring the proof of their faith to the patroness of the Americas.
Champoton, Mexico

Rodeo Under Sombreros

Champoton, in Campeche, hosts a fair honored by the Virgén de La Concepción. O rodeo Mexican under local sombreros reveals the elegance and skill of the region's cowboys.

Mexico City, Mexico

mexican soul

With more than 20 million inhabitants in a vast metropolitan area, this megalopolis marks, from its heart of zócalo, the spiritual pulse of a nation that has always been vulnerable and dramatic.

San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico

The Home Sweet Home of Mexican Social Conscience

Mayan, mestizo and Hispanic, Zapatista and tourist, country and cosmopolitan, San Cristobal has no hands to measure. In it, Mexican and expatriate backpacker visitors and political activists share a common ideological demand.
Cobá to Pac Chen, Mexico

From the Ruins to the Mayan Homes

On the Yucatan Peninsula, the history of the second largest indigenous Mexican people is intertwined with their daily lives and merges with modernity. In Cobá, we went from the top of one of its ancient pyramids to the heart of a village of our times.
Overall, Mexico

The Most Caribbean of the Mayan Ruins

Built by the sea as an exceptional outpost decisive for the prosperity of the Mayan nation, Tulum was one of its last cities to succumb to Hispanic occupation. At the end of the XNUMXth century, its inhabitants abandoned it to time and to an impeccable coastline of the Yucatan peninsula.
Lion, Elephants, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe
PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a Chame, Nepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Itamaraty Palace Staircase, Brasilia, Utopia, Brazil
Architecture & Design
Brasilia, Brazil

Brasília: from Utopia to the Capital and Political Arena of Brazil

Since the days of the Marquis of Pombal, there has been talk of transferring the capital to the interior. Today, the chimera city continues to look surreal but dictates the rules of Brazilian development.
Tibetan heights, altitude sickness, mountain prevent to treat, travel

Altitude Sickness: the Grievances of Getting Mountain Sick

When traveling, it happens that we find ourselves confronted with the lack of time to explore a place as unmissable as it is high. Medicine and previous experiences with Altitude Evil dictate that we should not risk ascending in a hurry.
Moa on a beach in Rapa Nui/Easter Island
Ceremonies and Festivities
Easter Island, Chile

The Take-off and Fall of the Bird-Man Cult

Until the XNUMXth century, the natives of Easter Island they carved and worshiped great stone gods. All of a sudden, they started to drop their moai. The veneration of tanatu manu, a half-human, half-sacred leader, decreed after a dramatic competition for an egg.
Museum of Petroleum, Stavanger, Norway
Stavanger, Norway

The Motor City of Norway

The abundance of offshore oil and natural gas and the headquarters of the companies in charge of exploiting them have promoted Stavanger from the Norwegian energy capital preserve. Even so, this city didn't conform. With a prolific historical legacy, at the gates of a majestic fjord, cosmopolitan Stavanger has long propelled the Land of the Midnight Sun.

A Market Economy

The law of supply and demand dictates their proliferation. Generic or specific, covered or open air, these spaces dedicated to buying, selling and exchanging are expressions of life and financial health.
Jingkieng Wahsurah, Nongblai Village Roots Bridge, Meghalaya, India
Meghalaya, India

The Bridges of the Peoples that Create Roots

The unpredictability of rivers in the wettest region on Earth never deterred the Khasi and the Jaintia. Faced with the abundance of trees elastic fig tree in their valleys, these ethnic groups got used to molding their branches and strains. From their time-lost tradition, they have bequeathed hundreds of dazzling root bridges to future generations.
Reindeer Racing, Kings Cup, Inari, Finland
Inari, Finland

The Wackiest Race on the Top of the World

Finland's Lapps have been competing in the tow of their reindeer for centuries. In the final of the Kings Cup - Porokuninkuusajot - , they face each other at great speed, well above the Arctic Circle and well below zero.
Africa Princess, Canhambaque, Bijagós, Guinea Bissau,
Africa Princess Cruise Part 1, Bijagós, Guinea Bissau

Towards Canhambaque, through the History of Guinea Bissau

The Africa Princess departs from the port of Bissau, downstream the Geba estuary. We make a first stopover on the island of Bolama. From the old capital, we proceed to the heart of the Bijagós archipelago.
Fort São Filipe, Cidade Velha, Santiago Island, Cape Verde
Cidade Velha, Cape Verde

Cidade Velha: the Ancient of the Tropico-Colonial Cities

It was the first settlement founded by Europeans below the Tropic of Cancer. In crucial times for Portuguese expansion to Africa and South America and for the slave trade that accompanied it, Cidade Velha became a poignant but unavoidable legacy of Cape Verdean origins.

Sunset, Avenue of Baobabs, Madagascar
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio

days like so many others

At the end of the afternoon
Ilha de Mozambique, Mozambique  

The Island of Ali Musa Bin Bique. Pardon... of Mozambique

With the arrival of Vasco da Gama in the extreme south-east of Africa, the Portuguese took over an island that had previously been ruled by an Arab emir, who ended up misrepresenting the name. The emir lost his territory and office. Mozambique - the molded name - remains on the resplendent island where it all began and also baptized the nation that Portuguese colonization ended up forming.
aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
coast, fjord, Seydisfjordur, Iceland
Winter White
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, lions
NP Gorongosa, Mozambique

The Wild Heart of Mozambique shows Signs of Life

Gorongosa was home to one of the most exuberant ecosystems in Africa, but from 1980 to 1992 it succumbed to the Civil War waged between FRELIMO and RENAMO. Greg Carr, Voice Mail's millionaire inventor received a message from the Mozambican ambassador to the UN challenging him to support Mozambique. For the good of the country and humanity, Carr pledged to resurrect the stunning national park that the Portuguese colonial government had created there.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Camiguin, Philippines, Katungan mangrove.
Natural Parks
Camiguin, Philippines

An Island of Fire Surrended to Water

With more than twenty cones above 100 meters, the abrupt and lush, Camiguin has the highest concentration of volcanoes of any other of the 7641 islands in the Philippines or on the planet. But, in recent times, not even the fact that one of these volcanoes is active has disturbed the peace of its rural, fishing and, to the delight of outsiders, heavily bathed life.
Vairocana Buddha, Todai ji Temple, Nara, Japan
UNESCO World Heritage
Nara, Japan

The Colossal Cradle of the Japanese Buddhism

Nara has long since ceased to be the capital and its Todai-ji temple has been demoted. But the Great Hall remains the largest ancient wooden building in the world. And it houses the greatest bronze Vairocana Buddha.
Ooty, Tamil Nadu, Bollywood Scenery, Heartthrob's Eye
Ooty, India

In Bollywood's Nearly Ideal Setting

The conflict with Pakistan and the threat of terrorism made filming in Kashmir and Uttar Pradesh a drama. In Ooty, we see how this former British colonial station took the lead.
View of Casa Iguana, Corn islands, pure caribbean, nicaragua
Corn Islands - Islas del Maíz , Nicaragua

pure caribbean

Perfect tropical settings and genuine local life are the only luxuries available in the so-called Corn Islands or Corn Islands, an archipelago lost in the Central American confines of the Caribbean Sea.
The Crucifixion in Helsinki
Helsinki, Finland

A Frigid-Scholarly Via Crucis

When Holy Week arrives, Helsinki shows its belief. Despite the freezing cold, little dressed actors star in a sophisticated re-enactment of Via Crucis through streets full of spectators.
The Toy Train story
On Rails
Siliguri a Darjeeling, India

The Himalayan Toy Train Still Running

Neither the steep slope of some stretches nor the modernity stop it. From Siliguri, in the tropical foothills of the great Asian mountain range, the Darjeeling, with its peaks in sight, the most famous of the Indian Toy Trains has ensured for 117 years, day after day, an arduous dream journey. Traveling through the area, we climb aboard and let ourselves be enchanted.
city ​​hall, capital, oslo, norway
Oslo, Norway

A Overcapitalized Capital

One of Norway's problems has been deciding how to invest the billions of euros from its record-breaking sovereign wealth fund. But even immoderate resources don't save Oslo from its social inconsistencies.
Fruit sellers, Swarm, Mozambique
Daily life
Enxame Mozambique

Mozambican Fashion Service Area

It is repeated at almost all stops in towns of Mozambique worthy of appearing on maps. The machimbombo (bus) stops and is surrounded by a crowd of eager "businessmen". The products offered can be universal such as water or biscuits or typical of the area. In this region, a few kilometers from Nampula, fruit sales suceeded, in each and every case, quite intense.
Esteros del Iberá, Pantanal Argentina, Alligator
Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

On the world map, south of the famous brazilian wetland, a little-known flooded region appears, but almost as vast and rich in biodiversity. the Guarani expression Y bera defines it as “shining waters”. The adjective fits more than its strong luminance.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.