Guanajuato, Mexico

The City that Shines in All Colors


Domes
afternoon shadow
The Basilica and the University
Guanajuato Blues
Architecture
Friends of the Bouganvileas
Callejon del Beso
El Pipila
Future Student Museum
Frida and the Mono
La Valenciana Mine and Church
La Valenciana Church
The balcony
Face vs Back
above Guanajuato
old mine
street of all colors
The Precious House
the Quincenera
View over the Center
During the XNUMXth century, it was the city that produced the most silver in the world and one of the most opulent in Mexico and colonial Spain. Several of its mines are still active, but the impressive wealth of Guanuajuato lies in the multicolored eccentricity of its history and secular heritage.

Over time, Guanajuato became a city of rituals.

We have them for all tastes. Those who, like us, have recently entered there, begin by surrendering to the ascent-pilgrimage to the Cerro del Pipila.

The first of the ascents, we do it in the panoramic funicular, departing from the back of Teatro Juárez. We had already circled the avenues, streets and alleys, from the almost edge of the Jardin El Contador to the central and neuralgic Jardin La Unión.

As the small cabin climbs the western slope, it reveals something different: the stratification of the houses of Guanajuato, the bright but harmonious shape as it was molded to the capricious relief of the Sierra de San Gregorio, located in an area of ​​the center of the country that Mexicans know it as Bajio.

This, despite being above 2000m altitude.

The Dazzling Multicolor Casario de Guanajuato

The change in perspective reveals how its squares and urban veins are more intricate than they appear.

It exposes us to successive levels of undulating houses, homes above homes, buildings and more buildings perched, vying for the parched slopes.

The Purépecha Indians who inhabited this heart of Mexico, upon the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, knew it for quanax huato, translatable as frog hill(s). The Europeans adjusted both the phonics and the spelling.

The cabin leans against your dock. We walked through a few interior corridors. Then, others, exterior, aimed at the apex of the viewpoint.

When we conquered it, the last light of day gilded high and fortunate sections, sometimes of the houses, sometimes of the arid slopes.

We leaned over the balcony.

We looked from one end of the heights of the valley to the other, looking for the pockets of color that the shadow spared.

Meanwhile, a crowd swelled which the dusk made festive. Mexican outsiders and Gringos they gave themselves to selfies endless, with the scenery in the background.

El Pípila, the Hero of the Mexican Independence of Guanajuato

And to others that framed the towering statue of Juan José de los Reyes Martínez, El Pípila.

El Pípila is, par excellence, the independence hero of the city. At a time when the movement's leader and father of the Mexican homeland Miguel Hidalgo was opening the hostilities against the Spanish Crown and the Loyalists, the latter were fortified in a grain silo.

Hidalgo's forces achieved the famous Siege of Alhondiga.

However, the loyalists shot back anyone who approached the building. So it was, until the miner El Pípila tied a stone slab to his back.

Protected at the height, he crept to the entrance with a tar jar and a torch and set fire to the wooden doors of Alhondiga. The collapse of the doors paved the way for the conquest of the building, the city and the independence of Mexico.

El Pípila and the courage he showed are immortalized in the large stone statue, adorned with the saying “aun hay other garlics for burning".

Around the monument, divided between dozens of stalls, different fires and smoke abounded.

The End of Day Party at Cerro del Pípila

Instead of revolution, those of Mexican gastronomy, of its snacks and others, chapulines (locusts) fried with lemon and spicy, champurrados e atole (fermented corn drinks) flavored with marzipan, peanuts and others.

And the most banal tacos, foreigners and burritos, pushed with lively conversation and the unavoidable micheladas.

We wait for the win of the twilight. We went down, on foot, with no definite direction.

To the gaudy and exuberant historic center demarcated by the Basilica of Nª Srª de Guanajuato, the Juárez Theater and the University.

The affinity we feel with Lisbon when admiring the house amphitheater from the viewpoint, we feel it again when we get lost in the alleys and alleys, aware that, as long as the path remains descending and steep, it would end up in the smooth center of the city. .

When we arrive at the sort of trimmed triangle at Jardin La Unión, the party do El Pipila Hill has an extension.

Musicians mariachis in glossy black and yellow shirts they play popular themes from table to table, confident in the generous gratifications of spectators.

Street artists performed different acts.

The Students, the Student Women and the Tunas of Guanajuato

Guanajuato is, at the same time, one of the main academic cities in Mexico, comparable to Coimbra.

It houses almost thirty-two thousand students who follow the motto “the truth will make them free” and one of the most peculiar and impressive central university buildings in the world. face of the earth.

There we stopped to appreciate a lengthy delivery of diplomas.

In the same street, young members of the students, press tickets for their famous callejoneadas.

There are tourist, musical, comical, picturesque tours in which the hosts guide the participants and entertain them by playing an array of instruments and a little bit of everything.

Nearby, we come across Sebastian, dressed in traditional attire and in the company of his father José Manuel. Invite us in.

For a house overflowing with trophies, gowns, cassocks, instruments, diplomas, photos of tuna exhibitions in other countries, an endless number of academic items.

“We are in the process of cleaning up, don't take this the wrong way”, they confess. “If all goes well, this chaos will give rise to the Student Museum of Guanajuato.

The future museum is located next to another emblematic place in the city, also frequented by the callejoneadas.

The Sanctuary to the Concurrent Love of the Callejon del Beso

O alley of the kiss it's a tight alley, just 68cm wide.

He became famous for the forbidden passion of a couple, Ana and Carlos, who their respective families forbade to see each other.

Gifted with the proximity of their balconies, Ana and Carlos met and kissed often. Until Ana's father caught them in the middle of a kiss and killed his daughter with a dagger in the heart.

Today the alley of the kiss it is seen as a sanctuary of love.

For much of the day, visitors line up there to photograph themselves kissing.

And yet, in its genesis, Guanajuato had little time for romance and feelings.

Guanajuato and the Endless Wealth in Silver and Gold

The city grew out of silver and gold. It improved from the record-breaking wealth that the region hid in hyperbolic veins, deposited on the slopes.

When the Spaniards arrived, in 1540, the natives were already exploring them without difficulty. Narratives that reached the invaders asserted that the natives found nuggets of gold on the surface of the ground.

Mineral deposits proved so rich that conquerors rushed to recruit defenses and erect forts.

The objective was to repel the attacks of the fierce Chichimeca natives to the newly named post of Real de Minas de Guanajuato, shortly afterwards, promoted to the city of Santa Fé de Real de Minas de Guanajuato.

News of the abundance of gold and silver traveled through Mexico. Soon, they arrived in Spain. Immigrants from Spain, Creoles, mestizo and native workers made the city grow.

With more hands to prospect, other veins were found and new mines opened.

Mines and More Mines Around a Wealthy City

San Barnabé was followed by Raias. Certain mines originated respective neighborhoods: Cata, La Pastita, San Luisito and Valenciana.

The pioneer mine, that of San Barnabé, produced almost half a millennium, until 1928.

Others, more recent, have proven even more profitable and continue to generate wealth.

This is the case of Valenciana, operational from 1774 and which, until the beginning of the XNUMXth century, produced two thirds of the world's silver.

On one of the days dedicated to Guanajuato, we visited it. Contrary to expectations, the short trip is made up the slopes, towards the northern top of the city, where the houses almost touch the sky.

We passed majestic churches, commissioned with funding from the families that owned the mines, in gratitude to the divine for their good fortune.

Here, the church stands out. churrigueresque (Mexican Baroque style) of La Valenciana, built in the XNUMXth century next to the opening of the homonymous mine.

With its right tower still unfinished, unlike the walls and the bastion that, further down, made it possible to defend the wealth from the bandits.

We descend to a depth of 70m from one of the wells. There we felt the claustrophobic atmosphere in which around 3500 indigenous people were kept working, sometimes for more than fifteen hours a day.

As explained by the guide Edgar, precious metal veins and open mines appeared all over the place.

Not all excavations in the city were made for the direct reason of gold and silver.

Guanajuato, the City of Tunnels

Guanajuato is based on an extensive and intricate network of old tunnels, with almost 9 km, if you add the lengths of El Pípila, El Minero, La Galereña and the rest.

These tunnels were opened for a primary reason: the fulminant rainy season in these parts of Mexico and the floods generated by the thickening of the Guanajuato River.

They form a strange underworld that, in spaces, opens up to the sky and from which houses and buildings with post-colonial legos look emerge again. Guanajuato has all these dimensions and colors.

In almost five hundred years of history and of a wealthy colonization, it hides many more.

Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon), Chihuahua, Mexico

The Deep Mexico of the Barrancas del Cobre

Without warning, the Chihuahua highlands give way to endless ravines. Sixty million geological years have furrowed them and made them inhospitable. The Rarámuri indigenous people continue to call them home.
chihuahua, Mexico

¡Ay Chihuahua !

Mexicans have adapted this expression as one of their favorite manifestations of surprise. While we wander through the capital of the homonymous state of the Northwest, we often exclaim it.
Real de Catorce, San Luis Potosí, Mexico

From New Spain Lode to Mexican Pueblo Mágico

At the beginning of the XNUMXth century, it was one of the mining towns that guaranteed the most silver to the Spanish Crown. A century later, the silver had been devalued in such a way that Real de Catorce was abandoned. Its history and the peculiar scenarios filmed by Hollywood have made it one of the most precious villages in Mexico.
Real de Catorce, San Luis Potosí, Mexico

The Depreciation of Silver that Led to that of the Pueblo (Part II)

With the turn of the XNUMXth century, the value of the precious metal hit bottom. From a prodigious town, Real de Catorce became a ghost. Still discovering, we explore the ruins of the mines at their origin and the charm of the Pueblo resurrected.
Yucatan, Mexico

The End of the End of the World

The announced day passed but the End of the World insisted on not arriving. In Central America, today's Mayans watched and put up with incredulity all the hysteria surrounding their calendar.
Campeche, Mexico

200 Years of Playing with Luck

At the end of the XNUMXth century, the peasants surrendered to a game introduced to cool the fever of cash cards. Today, played almost only for Abuelites, lottery little more than a fun place.
San Cristóbal de las Casas a Campeche, Mexico

A Relay of Faith

The Catholic equivalent of Our Lady of Fátima, Our Lady of Guadalupe moves and moves Mexico. Its faithful cross the country's roads, determined to bring the proof of their faith to the patroness of the Americas.
Champoton, Mexico

Rodeo Under Sombreros

Champoton, in Campeche, hosts a fair honored by the Virgén de La Concepción. O rodeo Mexican under local sombreros reveals the elegance and skill of the region's cowboys.

Mexico City, Mexico

mexican soul

With more than 20 million inhabitants in a vast metropolitan area, this megalopolis marks, from its heart of zócalo, the spiritual pulse of a nation that has always been vulnerable and dramatic.

San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico

The Home Sweet Home of Mexican Social Conscience

Mayan, mestizo and Hispanic, Zapatista and tourist, country and cosmopolitan, San Cristobal has no hands to measure. In it, Mexican and expatriate backpacker visitors and political activists share a common ideological demand.
Cobá to Pac Chen, Mexico

From the Ruins to the Mayan Homes

On the Yucatan Peninsula, the history of the second largest indigenous Mexican people is intertwined with their daily lives and merges with modernity. In Cobá, we went from the top of one of its ancient pyramids to the heart of a village of our times.
Tulum, Mexico

The Most Caribbean of the Mayan Ruins

Built by the sea as an exceptional outpost decisive for the prosperity of the Mayan nation, Tulum was one of its last cities to succumb to Hispanic occupation. At the end of the XNUMXth century, its inhabitants abandoned it to time and to an impeccable coastline of the Yucatan peninsula.
hippopotami, chobe national park, botswana
Safari
Chobe NP, Botswana

Chobe: A River on the Border of Life with Death

Chobe marks the divide between Botswana and three of its neighboring countries, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. But its capricious bed has a far more crucial function than this political delimitation.
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 5th- Ngawal-BragaNepal,

Towards the Nepalese Braga

We spent another morning of glorious weather discovering Ngawal. There is a short journey towards Manang, the main town on the way to the zenith of the Annapurna circuit. We stayed for Braga (Braka). The hamlet would soon prove to be one of its most unforgettable places.
Traditional houses, Bergen, Norway.
Architecture & Design
Bergen, , Norway

The Great Hanseatic Port of Norway

Already populated in the early 1830th century, Bergen became the capital, monopolized northern Norwegian commerce and, until XNUMX, remained one of the largest cities in Scandinavia. Today, Oslo leads the nation. Bergen continues to stand out for its architectural, urban and historical exuberance.
Totems, Botko Village, Malekula, Vanuatu
Adventure
Malekula, Vanuatu

Meat and Bone Cannibalism

Until the early XNUMXth century, man-eaters still feasted on the Vanuatu archipelago. In the village of Botko we find out why European settlers were so afraid of the island of Malekula.
knights of the divine, faith in the divine holy spirit, Pirenopolis, Brazil
Ceremonies and Festivities
Pirenópolis, Brazil

A Ride of Faith

Introduced in 1819 by Portuguese priests, the Festa do Divino Espírito Santo de Pirenópolis it aggregates a complex web of religious and pagan celebrations. It lasts more than 20 days, spent mostly on the saddle.
Magome to Tsumago, Nakasendo, Path medieval Japan
Cities
Magome-Tsumago, Japan

Magome to Tsumago: The Overcrowded Path to the Medieval Japan

In 1603, the Tokugawa shogun dictated the renovation of an ancient road system. Today, the most famous stretch of the road that linked Edo to Kyoto is covered by a mob eager to escape.
Meal
Margilan, Uzbekistan

An Uzbekistan's Breadwinner

In one of the many bakeries in Margilan, worn out by the intense heat of the tandyr oven, the baker Maruf'Jon works half-baked like the distinctive traditional breads sold throughout Uzbekistan
Women with long hair from Huang Luo, Guangxi, China
Culture
Longsheng, China

Huang Luo: the Chinese Village of the Longest Hairs

In a multi-ethnic region covered with terraced rice paddies, the women of Huang Luo have surrendered to the same hairy obsession. They let the longest hair in the world grow, years on end, to an average length of 170 to 200 cm. Oddly enough, to keep them beautiful and shiny, they only use water and rice.
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Sport
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
Christmas in Australia, Platipus = Platypus
Traveling
Atherton Tableland, Australia

Miles Away from Christmas (part XNUMX)

On December 25th, we explored the high, bucolic yet tropical interior of North Queensland. We ignore the whereabouts of most of the inhabitants and find the absolute absence of the Christmas season strange.
on this side of the Atlantic
Ethnic

Island of Goreia, Senegal

A Slave Island of Slavery

Were several millions or just thousands of slaves passing through Goreia on their way to the Americas? Whatever the truth, this small Senegalese island will never be freed from the yoke of its symbolism.”

Rainbow in the Grand Canyon, an example of prodigious photographic light
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 1)

And Light was made on Earth. Know how to use it.

The theme of light in photography is inexhaustible. In this article, we give you some basic notions about your behavior, to start with, just and only in terms of geolocation, the time of day and the time of year.
Garranos gallop across the plateau above Castro Laboreiro, PN Peneda-Gerês, Portugal
History
Castro Laboreiro, Portugal  

From Castro de Laboreiro to the Rim of the Peneda – Gerês Range

We arrived at (i) the eminence of Galicia, at an altitude of 1000m and even more. Castro Laboreiro and the surrounding villages stand out against the granite monumentality of the mountains and the Planalto da Peneda and Laboreiro. As do its resilient people who, sometimes handed over to Brandas and sometimes to Inverneiras, still call these stunning places home.
San Juan, Old Town, Puerto Rico, Reggaeton, Flag on Gate
Islands
San Juan, Puerto Rico (Part 2)

To the Rhythm of Reggaeton

Restless and inventive Puerto Ricans have made San Juan the reggaeton capital of the world. At the preferred beat of the nation, they filled their “Walled City” with other arts, color and life.
ala juumajarvi lake, oulanka national park, finland
Winter White
Kuusamo ao PN Oulanka, Finland

Under the Arctic's Icy Spell

We are at 66º North and at the gates of Lapland. In these parts, the white landscape belongs to everyone and to no one like the snow-covered trees, the atrocious cold and the endless night.
View from the top of Mount Vaea and the tomb, Vailima village, Robert Louis Stevenson, Upolu, Samoa
Literature
Upolu, Samoa

Stevenson's Treasure Island

At age 30, the Scottish writer began looking for a place to save him from his cursed body. In Upolu and the Samoans, he found a welcoming refuge to which he gave his heart and soul.
Maori Haka, Waitangi Treaty Grounds, New Zealand
Nature
bay of islands, New Zealand

New Zealand's Civilization Core

Waitangi is the key place for independence and the long-standing coexistence of native Maori and British settlers. In the surrounding Bay of Islands, the idyllic marine beauty of the New Zealand antipodes is celebrated, but also the complex and fascinating kiwi nation.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Autumn
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Argentinean flag on the Perito Moreno-Argentina lake-glacier
Natural Parks
Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina

The Resisting Glacier

Warming is supposedly global, but not everywhere. In Patagonia, some rivers of ice resist. From time to time, the advance of the Perito Moreno causes landslides that bring Argentina to a halt.
Leisure Channel
UNESCO World Heritage
Amsterdam, The Netherlands

From Channel to Channel in a Surreal Holland

Liberal when it comes to drugs and sex, Amsterdam welcomes a crowd of outsiders. Among canals, bicycles, coffee shops and brothel windows, we search, in vain, for its quieter side.
Couple visiting Mikhaylovskoe, village where writer Alexander Pushkin had a home
Characters
Saint Petersburg e Mikhaylovkoe, Russia

The Writer Who Succumbed to His Own Plot

Alexander Pushkin is hailed by many as the greatest Russian poet and the founder of modern Russian literature. But Pushkin also dictated an almost tragicomic epilogue to his prolific life.
Glass Bottom Boats, Kabira Bay, Ishigaki
Beaches
Ishigaki, Japan

The Exotic Japanese Tropics

Ishigaki is one of the last islands in the stepping stone that stretches between Honshu and Taiwan. Ishigakijima is home to some of the most amazing beaches and coastal scenery in these parts of the Pacific Ocean. More and more Japanese who visit them enjoy them with little or no bathing.
Detail of the Kamakhya temple in Guwahati, Assam, India.
Religion
Guwahati, India

The City that Worships Kamakhya and the Fertility

Guwahati is the largest city in the state of Assam and in North East India. It is also one of the fastest growing in the world. For Hindus and devout believers in Tantra, it will be no coincidence that Kamakhya, the mother goddess of creation, is worshiped there.
Back in the sun. San Francisco Cable Cars, Life Ups and Downs
On Rails
San Francisco, USA

San Francisco Cable Cars: A Life of Highs and Lows

A macabre wagon accident inspired the San Francisco cable car saga. Today, these relics work as a charm operation in the city of fog, but they also have their risks.
Vegetables, Little India, Sari Singapore, Singapore
Society
Little India, Singapore

The Sari Singapore of Little India

There are thousands of inhabitants instead of the 1.3 billion of the mother country, but Little India, a neighborhood in tiny Singapore, does not lack soul. No soul, no smell of Bollywood curry and music.
herd, foot-and-mouth disease, weak meat, colonia pellegrini, argentina
Daily life
Colónia Pellegrini, Argentina

When the Meat is Weak

The unmistakable flavor of Argentine beef is well known. But this wealth is more vulnerable than you think. The threat of foot-and-mouth disease, in particular, keeps authorities and growers afloat.
El Tatio Geisers, Atacama, Chile, Between ice and heat
Wildlife
the tattoo, Chile

El Tatio Geysers – Between the Ice and the Heat of the Atacama

Surrounded by supreme volcanoes, the geothermal field of El Tatio, in the Atacama Desert it appears as a Dantesque mirage of sulfur and steam at an icy 4200 m altitude. Its geysers and fumaroles attract hordes of travelers.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.
PT EN ES FR DE IT