Guadalupe, French Antilles

Guadeloupe: a Delicious Caribbean, in a Counter Butterfly-Effect

Makeshift showcase of tropical wicker hats.
Friends play rackets on a beach on the west coast of Guadeloupe
Ti punch
Showcase of Rum Planteur, the traditional fruit rum of the French Antilles.
Tropical Ferns
Tropical vegetation in the high interior of Guadeloupe.
La Cabane Creole
Nativo passes in front of a bar by the beach at Grande Anse, in Trois Rivieres.
Guadeloupe fruit
Tropical fruit stand at Basse Terre market.
street scene
Resident of Basse-Terre passes by the main market of the city.
River & Mangrove
Mangrove forest crossed by a river in Guadeloupe.
bathing tour
Family walks along a beach on the west coast of Basse Terre.
fredy punch
Vendor promotes rum planteur (handcrafted and fruit flavored) on a beach on the west coast of Guadeloupe.
Eddie Murphy from Guadeloupe
Jordan Etienne, a vegetable hat seller, at a stand in Pointe du Chateaux
between dummies
Boy "metro" (originating in mainland France) leaves a clothing store in Le Moule.
Carbet River
Visitors watch a river on its way to the Du Carbet waterfalls.
Carbet kicks
Two long jumps from the Du Carbet waterfalls at the foot of the La Soufriere volcano
Cycling and cockfighting
A cyclist and cockfighting participant is simultaneously involved in both sports.
The Saints
Les Saintes Archipelago, off the southern tip of Guadeloupe.
Céline and Amandine
Céline Felix and Amandine Tros, proud teenagers from Basse Terre.
The shadow
A man waits out of the sun under an illustrated viaduct on the outskirts of Pointe-a-Pitre.
Guadeloupe is shaped like a moth. A trip around this Antille is enough to understand why the population is governed by the motto Pas Ni Problem and raises the minimum of waves, despite the many setbacks.

An early morning awakening saves us from the worst of the traffic caused by the influx of workers into the capital Pointe-à-Pitre.

It allows us to cross the Riviere Salée faster than we expected and to the other wing of the island, which the settlers christened Basse Terre.

We are in one of the most remote territories in the European Union.

The massive injection of Euros by the French metropolis has endowed these domains of the Lesser Antilles with roads and other infrastructure that most Caribbean neighbors dare not dream of.

Street Scene, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

A resident of Basse-Terre passes by the main market of this butterfly island town

On both sides of the road, banana groves as far as the eye can see fill the landscape from the coast to the foothills of the mountains that protrude from the interior. That sea of ​​green ensures Guadeloupe's main export and the livelihood of many families.

We advanced to the south. We also come across the rival sugarcane culture, once the only one to deserve the attention and dedication of the colonists who lined their vast domains with it and supplied the rum distilleries.

The villages of Goyave and Sainte-Marie are left behind. Shortly afterwards, we found a Hindu temple as exuberant as it was out of place in these western parts and that only a whim of history could justify.

Little India on the Butterfly Island of Guadeloupe

Guadeloupe is home to one of the largest Indian populations in Latin America.

Around 1850, as a result of the French Revolution and the dissemination of their ideals, the colonists, sometimes French, sometimes British, on the island could no longer rely on slave labor to cut the sugarcane.

The two powers decided to unite in the solution. They imported some 40.000 workers from the Tamil Nadu region, where Pondicherry served as a bridgehead for an eventual Francophone expansion in the subcontinent.

A few years later, this recruitment ended. The Indians stayed and integrated. Today, there are about 55.000. They stopped using the Tamil dialect and names. Only a few elderly people maintain ties with the India.

Towards the Lush Chutes du Carbet

In Capesterre-Belle-Eau, there is finally a detour to what we had defined as the first stop of the morning, the Chutes du Carbet. It was neither more nor less than the waterfalls most impressive in Guadeloupe, divided by three distinct jumps on the slopes of the great mountain of the butterfly island, La Soufrière.

As we move away from the seaside, the secondary road becomes steep. It penetrates into a dense, humid forest that the morning fog strokes and irrigates.

For a while, we are the only travelers to travel the winding road. Until a small Peugeot driven by a lady who is peeking over the steering wheel comes out of nowhere and presses us to speed up the mountain.

Tropical Vegetation, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

Tropical vegetation in the high interior of Guadeloupe.

We have a feeling that a park employee had overslept. We hit the narrow, steep path to the pursuer, like a forced escort.

A grass roundabout announces the end of the race. The native runs to chop the point. She then returns relieved and smiling to let us know that we had arrived before opening time. And that, as a prize, it exempted us from paying the entrance fees.

We gladly accept. In the always expensive French Antilles, any savings are welcome.

Carbet River, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

Visitors watch a river on its way to the Du Carbet waterfalls, on the heights of the butterfly island

In less than 15 minutes, we reach a balcony conquered by the vegetation and the Carbet river. We lean over the barrier but almost only see a tropical tree with dense foliage.

Perhaps surrendered to legitimate environmental concerns, the authorities had forgotten to uncover the park's attractions. Determined to achieve a clear perspective, we are forced to invade the rocky bed of the river.

And it is on one of its biggest pebbles that we can unveil the majestic waterfall.

Chutes du Carbet, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

Two long jumps from the Du Carbet waterfalls at the foot of the La Soufriere volcano

Cycling, Cockfights: Pastimes on the butterfly island of Guadeloupe

We return to the coast along the same route. At that time, the awakening of most of the surrounding villagers was confirmed. One of them prepares to ride a colorful bicycle. we see you at the entrance from your home single storey planted by the roadside.

We get excited about the strange sporty photogeny, which is only reinforced when the cyclist picks up and strokes a white fighting rooster.

Cycling and Cock Fighting, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

A cyclist and cockfighting participant is simultaneously involved in both sports.

“Around here, cycling is the favorite sport”, informs us Daril. “I was just going to meet some friends. We do 150 km a day to prepare for the most important races in Guadeloupe and the Martinique. But also we bet on cockfights.

If you want to see it, I'll be in Petit Bourg soon with this one and others. Show up there!"

We stopped our tour at the southern tip of the butterfly-shaped island, to examine some beaches of black sand and the diffuse silhouette of the Les Saintes archipelago.

The Mercantile and Political Frenzy of the Delicious Basse-Terre Market

We return to Basse Terre, the main village on the homonymous sub-island. There, we walk by the market location, between the tropical fruit and craft stalls.

Fruit, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

Tropical fruit stand at Basse Terre market.

Some of the jaunty vendors try to foist their wares on us. Others prefer to take refuge from the psychological threat of our chambers. At first, this is the case for Marie-Louie Jelda and Legois Polycarpe. With due insistence and conversation, we won the trust of the ladies there. They end up letting themselves be photographed.

Ismael Patrick calls us to the nearby stand and expresses his disagreement: “If your idea was to take images of people from Guadeloupe, you should have chosen other people. They are Haitian immigrants.”

It also complains that a significant part of market traders sell Chinese products. After justifying his distinctive look with the ethnic roots of Tamil Nadu, he confesses that, lacking good deals with local goods, he had opted for Indian spices and essences.

He then proceeds to a quasi-contestatory monologue that promotes the political collective LKP (Liyannaj Kont Pwofitasyon) and its demands against the injustices of the metropolis' government and the beckes, the all-powerful settlers who continue to control Guadeloupe.

In the shade, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

A man waits out of the sun under an illustrated viaduct on the outskirts of Pointe-a-Pitre.

Even before we leave the market, we have fun watching an elderly mother beating her son, in public, while he listens to her with a very heavy sack on his back, bare-chested, patient and jocular.

The Beaches of the Island and the Ti Punch that Gives You More Flavor

We continue to discover the butterfly island, now on a south-north route full of tiresome curves. We ended up using this tiredness as an excuse to stop for a swim on the beaches facing the Caribbean side.

Family on the beach, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

Family walks along a beach on the west coast of Basse Terre.

In one of them, a couple of meters (French Europeans) do what they can to alleviate the monotony of the relationship. He shows his partner and other bathers his mastery in any martial art. She, ignore him as much as she can. He makes an effort not to lose the thread in the skein of the novel he is reading.

On another beach, Grande Anse, lost among hundreds of folklore bottles of liqueur, Fredy Punch and his wife Martine recruit us for a tasting of ti punch. We sip rum samples with a taste of tropical fruits while talking to the native host.

Fredy Punch, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

Vendor promotes rum planteur (handcrafted and fruit flavored) on a beach on the west coast of Guadeloupe.

Meanwhile, a newly arrived group of French seekers approaches Fredy. Enticed by its far superior numbers, Fredy is dedicated to enticing new customers.

Ti Punch, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

Showcase of Rum Planteur, the traditional fruit rum of the French Antilles.

We cut our way on the northern slope of the island's butterfly mold, modernized, overturned by buildings and with less visual interest.

Jordan, the Eddie Murphy of Pointe des Chateaux

We return in three times to Grande Terre, the other flat “wing” of Guadeloupe. Take a look at the Pointe des Chateaux, the end of a capricious tongue of land that points east.

Les Saintes, Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

Les Saintes Archipelago, off the southern tip of Guadeloupe.

There, the confluence of the north and south seas, exposed to the elements due to the geographical isolation of the place, provokes an instability that agitates the waters, the low coastal vegetation and the stalls of handicraft vendors.

Jordan Etienne leaves the shelter of the tent to foist us his hats made of plaited palm leaves.

"Eddie Murphy" from Guadeloupe, Caribbean, Butterfly Effect, French Antilles

Jordan Etienne, a vegetable hat seller, at a stand in Pointe du Chateaux

Looks like an Eddie Murphy clone to us. Conversation starts, joke after joke, we confirmed that Hollywood wasn't your thing. Jordan had studied crafts at Algés.

He loved Lisbon where he had learned some Portuguese and left friends.

Martinique, French Antilles

The Armpit Baguette Caribbean

We move around Martinique as freely as the Euro and the tricolor flags fly supreme. But this piece of France is volcanic and lush. Lies in the insular heart of the Americas and has a delicious taste of Africa.
Soufriere, Saint Lucia

The Great Pyramids of the Antilles

Perched above a lush coastline, the twin peaks Pitons are the hallmark of Saint Lucia. They have become so iconic that they have a place in the highest notes of East Caribbean Dollars. Right next door, residents of the former capital Soufrière know how precious their sight is.
Cahuita, Costa Rica

Dreadlocked Costa Rica

Traveling through Central America, we explore a Costa Rican coastline as much as the Caribbean. In Cahuita, Pura Vida is inspired by an eccentric faith in Jah and a maddening devotion to cannabis.
Sainte-Luce, Martinique

The Nostalgic Projectionist

From 1954 to 1983, Gérard Pierre screened many of the famous films arriving in Martinique. 30 years after the closing of the room in which he worked, it was still difficult for this nostalgic native to change his reel.
Grande Terre, New Caledonia

South Pacific Great Boulder

James Cook thus named distant New Caledonia because it reminded him of his father's Scotland, whereas the French settlers were less romantic. Endowed with one of the largest nickel reserves in the world, they named Le Caillou the mother island of the archipelago. Not even its mining prevents it from being one of the most dazzling patches of Earth in Oceania.
Papeete, French Polynesia

The Third Sex of Tahiti

Heirs of Polynesian ancestral culture, the Mahu they preserve an unusual role in society. Lost somewhere between the two genders, these men-women continue to fight for the meaning of their lives.
Île-des-Pins, New Caledonia

The Island that Leaned against Paradise

In 1964, Katsura Morimura delighted the Japan with a turquoise novel set in Ouvéa. But the neighboring Île-des-Pins has taken over the title "The Nearest Island to Paradise" and thrills its visitors.
Saint-Pierre, Martinique

The City that Arose from the Ashes

In 1900, the economic capital of the Antilles was envied for its Parisian sophistication, until the Pelée volcano charred and buried it. More than a century later, Saint-Pierre is still regenerating.
Fort-de-France, Martinique

Freedom, Bipolarity and Tropicality

The capital of Martinique confirms a fascinating Caribbean extension of French territory. There, the relations between the colonists and the natives descended from slaves still give rise to small revolutions.
Masai Mara Reservation, Masai Land Travel, Kenya, Masai Convivial
Masai Mara, Kenya

A Journey Through the Masai Lands

The Mara savannah became famous for the confrontation between millions of herbivores and their predators. But, in a reckless communion with wildlife, it is the Masai humans who stand out there.
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 5th- Ngawal-BragaNepal

Towards the Nepalese Braga

We spent another morning of glorious weather discovering Ngawal. There is a short journey towards Manang, the main town on the way to the zenith of the Annapurna circuit. We stayed for Braga (Braka). The hamlet would soon prove to be one of its most unforgettable places.
Visitors in Jameos del Água, Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain
Architecture & Design
Lanzarote, Canary Islands

To César Manrique what is César Manrique's

By itself, Lanzarote would always be a Canaria by itself, but it is almost impossible to explore it without discovering the restless and activist genius of one of its prodigal sons. César Manrique passed away nearly thirty years ago. The prolific work he left shines on the lava of the volcanic island that saw him born.
Full Dog Mushing
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.
Ceremonies and Festivities

Defenders of Their Homelands

Even in times of peace, we detect military personnel everywhere. On duty, in cities, they fulfill routine missions that require rigor and patience.
Buddhist Heart of Myanmar
Yangon, Myanmar

The Great Capital of Burma (Delusions of the Military Junta aside)

In 2005, Myanmar's dictatorial government inaugurated a bizarre and nearly deserted new capital. Exotic, cosmopolitan life remains intact in Yangon, Burmese's largest and most fascinating city.
World Food

Gastronomy Without Borders or Prejudice

Each people, their recipes and delicacies. In certain cases, the same ones that delight entire nations repel many others. For those who travel the world, the most important ingredient is a very open mind.
Cuada village, Flores Island, Azores, rainbow quarter
Aldeia da Cuada, Flores Island, Azores

The Azorean Eden Betrayed by the Other Side of the Sea

Cuada was founded, it is estimated that in 1676, next to the west threshold of Flores. In the XNUMXth century, its residents joined the great Azorean stampede to the Americas. They left behind a village as stunning as the island and the Azores.
4th of July Fireworks-Seward, Alaska, United States
Seward, Alaska

The Longest 4th of July

The independence of the United States is celebrated, in Seward, Alaska, in a modest way. Even so, the 4th of July and its celebration seem to have no end.
Creel, Chihuahua, Carlos Venzor, collector, museum
Chihuahua a Creel, Chihuahua, Mexico

On Creel's Way

With Chihuahua behind, we point to the southwest and to even higher lands in the north of Mexico. Next to Ciudad Cuauhtémoc, we visited a Mennonite elder. Around Creel, we lived for the first time with the Rarámuri indigenous community of the Serra de Tarahumara.
Obese resident of Tupola Tapaau, a small island in Western Samoa.
Tonga, Western Samoa, Polynesia

XXL Pacific

For centuries, the natives of the Polynesian islands subsisted on land and sea. Until the intrusion of colonial powers and the subsequent introduction of fatty pieces of meat, fast food and sugary drinks have spawned a plague of diabetes and obesity. Today, while much of Tonga's national GDP, Western Samoa and neighbors is wasted on these “western poisons”, fishermen barely manage to sell their fish.
sunlight photography, sun, lights
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 2)

One Sun, So Many Lights

Most travel photos are taken in sunlight. Sunlight and weather form a capricious interaction. Learn how to predict, detect and use at its best.
Campeche, Mexico, Yucatan Peninsula, Can Pech, Pastéis in the air
Campeche, Mexico

Campeche Upon Can Pech

As was the case throughout Mexico, the conquerors arrived, saw and won. Can Pech, the Mayan village, had almost 40 inhabitants, palaces, pyramids and an exuberant urban architecture, but in 1540 there were less than 6 natives. Over the ruins, the Spaniards built Campeche, one of the most imposing colonial cities in the Americas.
Male Maldives

The Maldives For Real

Seen from the air, Malé, the capital of the Maldives, looks little more than a sample of a crammed island. Those who visit it will not find lying coconut trees, dream beaches, spas or infinite pools. Be dazzled by the genuine Maldivian everyday life that tourist brochures omit.
Era Susi towed by dog, Oulanka, Finland
Winter White
PN Oulanka, Finland

A Slightly Lonesome Wolf

Jukka “Era-Susi” Nordman has created one of the largest packs of sled dogs in the world. He became one of Finland's most iconic characters but remains faithful to his nickname: Wilderness Wolf.
On the Crime and Punishment trail, St. Petersburg, Russia, Vladimirskaya
Saint Petersburg, Russia

On the Trail of "Crime and Punishment"

In St. Petersburg, we cannot resist investigating the inspiration for the base characters in Fyodor Dostoevsky's most famous novel: his own pities and the miseries of certain fellow citizens.
Levada do Caldeirão Verde, Madeira, Portugal, highlands
Levada do Caldeirão Verde, Madeira, Portugal

Upstream, Downstream

It is just one of over a hundred prodigious canal systems that Madeirans built to irrigate crops. Its verdant, steep and dramatic scenery makes visitors to the island flow continuously along the Levada of Caldeirão Verde.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Miniature houses, Chã das Caldeiras, Fogo Volcano, Cape Verde
Natural Parks
Chã das Caldeiras, Fogo Island Cape Verde

A "French" Clan at the Mercy of Fogo

In 1870, a Count born in Grenoble on his way to Brazilian exile, made a stopover in Cape Verde where native beauties tied him to the island of Fogo. Two of his children settled in the middle of the volcano's crater and continued to raise offspring there. Not even the destruction caused by the recent eruptions deters the prolific Montrond from the “county” they founded in Chã das Caldeiras.    
holy plain, Bagan, Myanmar
UNESCO World Heritage
Bagan, Myanmar

The Plain of Pagodas, Temples and other Heavenly Redemptions

Burmese religiosity has always been based on a commitment to redemption. In Bagan, wealthy and fearful believers continue to erect pagodas in hopes of winning the benevolence of the gods.
Look-alikes, Actors and Extras

Make-believe stars

They are the protagonists of events or are street entrepreneurs. They embody unavoidable characters, represent social classes or epochs. Even miles from Hollywood, without them, the world would be more dull.
Swimming, Western Australia, Aussie Style, Sun rising in the eyes
Busselton, Australia

2000 meters in Aussie Style

In 1853, Busselton was equipped with one of the longest pontoons in the world. World. When the structure collapsed, the residents decided to turn the problem around. Since 1996 they have been doing it every year. Swimming.
Pemba, Mozambique, Capital of Cabo Delgado, from Porto Amélia to Porto de Abrigo, Paquitequete
Pemba, Mozambique

From Porto Amélia to the Shelter Port of Mozambique

In July 2017, we visited Pemba. Two months later, the first attack took place on Mocímboa da Praia. Nor then do we dare to imagine that the tropical and sunny capital of Cabo Delgado would become the salvation of thousands of Mozambicans fleeing a terrifying jihadism.
white pass yukon train, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA
On Rails
Skagway, Alaska

A Klondike's Gold Fever Variant

The last great American gold rush is long over. These days, hundreds of cruise ships each summer pour thousands of well-heeled visitors into the shop-lined streets of Skagway.

the last address

From the grandiose tombs of Novodevichy, in Moscow, to the boxed Mayan bones of Pomuch, in the Mexican province of Campeche, each people flaunts its own way of life. Even in death.
Daily life
Arduous Professions

the bread the devil kneaded

Work is essential to most lives. But, certain jobs impose a degree of effort, monotony or danger that only a few chosen ones can measure up to.
Newborn turtle, PN Tortuguero, Costa Rica
PN Tortuguero, Costa Rica

A Night at the Nursery of Tortuguero

The name of the Tortuguero region has an obvious and ancient reason. Turtles from the Atlantic and the Caribbean Sea have long flocked to the black sand beaches of its narrow coastline to spawn. On one of the nights we spent in Tortuguero we watched their frenzied births.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.