NP Gorongosa, Mozambique

The Wild Heart of Mozambique shows Signs of Life

fun at sunset
Young lions enjoy themselves on the grassy edge of Lake Urema.
Palanca negra, as it is better known in Angola, crosses the mist and one of the PN Gorongosa's trails.
Pivas out of sight
Pivas, by far the most visible species in Gorongosa.
Elephant tries to notice what is coming and then reacts angrily and withdraws.
Twilight Hunt
Young lions roam a shore of the golden lake Urema at sunset.
Passing through the lions
PN Gorongosa's jeep returns to Chitengo after a good time watching some of the park's lions.
eyeing the lake
Fishing eagle attentive to movements in the water of a small lake below.
impala arrangement
Herd of impala watching the passage of human visitors from Gorongosa.
the great Gorongosa
The slope of the Gorongosa mountain range shrouded in fog, a common scene in the mornings of this interior region of Mozambique.
Palapa II
A male sable (little) concealed in the Gorongosa vegetation.
vulture stuff
Greg Kaltenecker's team of ornithologists obtain data on a white-headed vulture, a species that he studies and tracks in Gorongosa.
general stampede
Geese leave a lake full of amphibious vegetation.
a new sunset
Impala scrutinizes the Gorongosa tando on sunset.
Black Loin Storks
A duo of the so-called African tuiuius.
Gorongosa National Park guides observe a fire in Gorongosa National Park.
Gorongosa palm trees
One of Gorongosa's trademarks: its palm trees.
Evening Colors
Large tree cuts through the lush sunset around Gorongosa.
flight of the black loin stork
Black-backed stork in flight.
Near-night socializing
Mainly American visitors to PN Gorongosa live outside Chitengo.
national park-gorongosa-mozambique-wild-life-road
One of the many roads that ply PN Gorongosa.
Gorongosa was home to one of the most exuberant ecosystems in Africa, but from 1980 to 1992 it succumbed to the Civil War waged between FRELIMO and RENAMO. Greg Carr, Voice Mail's millionaire inventor received a message from the Mozambican ambassador to the UN challenging him to support Mozambique. For the good of the country and humanity, Carr pledged to resurrect the stunning national park that the Portuguese colonial government had created there.

The guide born in Zimbabwe Test takes us on one of the classic game drive jeeps.

After an introductory journey through the arboreal vegetation of PN Gorongosa, we arrive at an open savannah, filled with almost shallow dry grass, by areas of thick and dense tufts, mid-height.

It was sprinkled with exotic palm trees, some dwarf, others, not really, fans, ilalas or the like.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, palm trees

One of Gorongosa's trademarks: its palm trees.

“Well, they were hanging around here this morning. Let's see if they're still walking…”

The encounter is not immediate. As we comb through the windblown golden labyrinth, Test comes to doubt the quest's success. And getting impatient.

For a short time.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, safari

PN Gorongosa's jeep returns to Chitengo after a good time watching some of the park's lions.

“Oh done! There they are. See them?” Of course we were.

Two young lions had appeared out of nowhere. They panted. They gave us the idea of ​​being bothered by the heat that was still only ten in the morning. “They ate with the rest of the pack during the night. Now, they took time off for them.” adds Test.

In fact, we saw many more herbivores around: impala, bauala, piva and others.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, imbabalas

Imbabalas on a narrow road in PN Gorongosa.

What interested the lions, however, was the more ventilated shade around.

They chased her to and fro in such a way, they appeared and disappeared in the middle of the tufted undergrowth that we seemed to be playing hide and seek.

It was our first lion sighting in Gorongosa.

Several would follow. As easy as that.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, lions

Young lions enjoy themselves on the grassy edge of Lake Urema.

Gorongosa's Amazing Rivers and Ecosystems

His search allowed us, at the same time, to begin to appreciate the unique beauty of Gorongosa.

It forms a patchwork of ecosystems spread from the foothills of the homonymous mountain range to the Cheringoma Plateau, traversed by a series of rivers that have irrigated Lake Urema for centuries and sustain the incredible biodiversity of these places:

the Vunduzi that rises on the slopes of the Serra da Gorongosa, the Nhandugue, the namesake Urema, the Muaredzi.

And smaller ones that, as a rule, disappear during the dry season.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Black Loin Storks

A duo of the so-called African tuiuius.

Test takes us towards the edge of Urema, the lake. In June, with the rains already a few months past, this edge is a vast area lined with very green and succulent grass.

It appears teeming with herbivores, in particular with countless wildebeests, in an abundance that we have not found anywhere else in the world.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Pivas

Pivas, by far the most visible species in Gorongosa.

We see for the first time how much the fauna of Gorongosa had recovered from its darkest years.

In conversation with Vasco Galante, the park's Communication Director, he shows us a video of a promotional film from 1961, directed by Miguel Spiguel and narrated by the unmistakable Fernando Pessa.

Vasco tells us that, in his Abrantina youth, that same film, with the imagery of the jungle and safari, had dazzled him and aroused the dream of getting to know the place.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Chitengo gate guard

Chitengo official in charge of entrances and exits to the field.

From Hunting Reserve to Lush Colonial National Park

By that time, Gorongosa was glowing. From 1920 to 1959, it was a hunting reserve that the Mozambique Company determined with 1000 km2.

By 1940, it had become famous.

Incautiously, the authorities endowed her with a tourist camp in the alluvial plain next to the Mussicadzi River.

As many feared, in 1942 floods damaged infrastructure. Vasco shows us another movie. In it we see how packs led by lions with huge soot-colored manes took over the buildings.

How they climbed the spiral stairs to reach the terrace where they rested and scrutinized their domains and passed their eyes over the countless specimens that roamed there: wildebeest (3500), wildebeest (5500), impala (2000), zebra (3000), buffalo (14500), elephants (2200), hippos (3500), hundreds of elandes, sables and gondongas, all species later inventoried by South African ecologist Kenneth Tinley.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Impalas

Small herd of impala watching the passage of human visitors from Gorongosa.

In 1951, a new administration of the colonial government took into account that Gorongosa was already visited every year by more than 6000 tourists.

It dictated the construction of accommodation infrastructure, a restaurant and a bar, all in Chitengo.

Four years later, Gorongosa was declared a national park. Chitengo received new roads and other infrastructure.

In the late 60s, it also had a post office, a fuel station, an emergency clinic, a craft shop, two swimming pools and even a nightclub.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Chitengo Building

PN Gorongosa workers in front of one of the buildings in Chitengo.

The Harmless Years of the War of Independence

From 1964 to 1975, the war for independence generated by the Mozambique Liberation Front (FRELIMO) hardly affected the park.

In 1972, a Portuguese Company supported by several members of such a Provincial Volunteer Organization parked in the area to protect it.

In 1976, a new count confirmed several thousand animals and far more than the 200 lions previously verified, the highest number to date.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, twilight lions

Young lions roam a shore of the golden lake Urema at sunset.

Its ecosystem proved to be as healthy as ever.

Until, financed and armed by the South Africa and by the “white” government of Southern Rhodesia, the National Resistance of Mozambique (RENAMO), in opposition to FRELIMO, entered the scene.

1981-1992: The Traumatic Destruction of PN Gorongosa

It was 1981. The Civil War took over the country and, for Gorongosa, the worst possible scenario was confirmed: that RENAMO would soon use it as its headquarters.

That same year, RENAMO attacked Chitengo. He kidnapped several of his workers and two foreign scientists.

In 1983, the park was closed. From then onwards, violence and destruction increased. Ground battles and aerial bombardments destroyed the buildings.

Soldiers on both sides of the conflict slaughtered hundreds of elephants to sell ivory and obtain new weapons.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Lioness

Lioness rests warmed by the soft late afternoon sun.

Hungry soldiers killed thousands of distinct herbivores and the lions themselves – now protected and monitored with location collars – and other predators were decimated for sheer fun or starved to death for lack of their prey.

The civil war ended in 1992 but the park's fauna continued to be poached. By the end of the atrocities, nearly all large animals had been reduced by 90% or more.

Obviously, in 2017, there was still a lot to be done.

Infrastructure and fauna recovered and how.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Baboons and Pivas

Baboons pass in front of a curious herd of piva.

Back to the Discovery of Gorongosa BP

The next morning, we left early, in a new game drive mode led by Moutinho, a young native guide. A dense fog envelops Gorongosa.

Along the way, spooky silhouettes of animals appear at intervals on the narrow dirt road that the tropical vegetation struggled to invade: imbabalas, inhacosos and sables – the Mozambican name for Angola's emblematic black sables.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Pala-Pala

Palanca negra, as it is better known in Angola, crosses the mist and one of the PN Gorongosa's trails.

We have a look at lakes bequeathed by the rainy months (January to April), full of birds:

egypt geese, ibises, marabouts, yellow-billed and black-backed storks, pelicans and many others.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Pelicans

despite the distance to the ocean
Indian Ocean, pelicans abound in PN Gorongosa.

The more we traveled through the park, the more we were enchanted by its fifty-odd ecosystems:

the endless tando, the yellow wattle forest and the savannah dotted with exotic palm trees, the grassy and swampy shores of the Urema, the lake itself shared by hippos and crocodiles.

The tropical forest on the slopes of the mountains and many other environments.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, fog in the great Gorongosa

The slope of the Gorongosa mountain range shrouded in fog, a common scene in the mornings of this interior region of Mozambique.

In Search of the Park's Elusive Elephants

After intense search, we found a lone elephant male there, later another. It is not by chance that the memory of these pachyderms is as famous as it is.

In Gorongosa, barely detecting jeeps, elephants remember past traumas during and after the Civil War.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, elephant

Elephant tries to notice what is coming and then reacts angrily and withdraws.

They react with immediate suspicion and even chase vehicles. Unlike the lions – which we easily find again on the edge of the Urema – they are elusive.

But with time, everything heals.

This is how the Mozambican government considered that, in 1994, with the support of the African Development Bank and the International Union for the Conservation of Nature, it sought to recover infrastructure, open trails and roads.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, road.

One of the many roads that ply PN Gorongosa.

Demining the region and fighting poaching with the support of eighty newly hired employees, some former park workers and even ex-combatants.

Greg Carr: From the Mozambican Ambassador's Message to the UN to Action

After the turn of the century, Greg Carr, the American who invented Voicemail and prospered with it, entered the equation.

The Idaho multimillionaire welcomed a suggestion by the Mozambican ambassador to the UN during a meeting promoted by the Kennedy family to support Mozambique's recovery from the war.

Shortly thereafter, he visited Gorongosa. He was surrendered and convinced that the park could function as a strong tourist mobile for the development of central Mozambique.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Drª de Turno

Chitengo doctor on duty for workers and visitors to PN Gorongosa.

In 2004, Joaquim Chissano validated a partnership between the Mozambican Ministry of Tourism and the Carr Foundation, which Greg had created in 1999 for a thirty-year tenure of Gorongosa. This partnership foresaw an investment of almost 25 million euros.

In infrastructure, reintroduction of animals – as happened with the 54 elephants he bought from South African neighbor Kruger Park – integration of Gorongosa communities and their benefit from the project's estimated profits.

Vasco Galante: The Right Arm and the Man Always on the Ground by Greg Carr

By this time, Vasco Galante became Carr's right-hand man. Fed up with the business life he led in Portugal, he had already decided to change his life and Mozambique had stayed in his heart.

When he found out that Greg Carr was looking for someone responsible for the Gorongosa team, the delicious film by Miguel Spiguel with voiceover by Fernando Pessa flashed through his mind.

Vasco became an unavoidable part of the park's family. how is it Matthew Mutemba, the administrator we are equally privileged to live with, recently awarded by National Geographic as one of their “Emerging Explorers”From 2017.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, ducks

Geese leave a lake full of amphibious vegetation.

American Interest in Gorongosa vs Donald Trump's Isolationist Policy

On the days he welcomes us, Chitengo is in a frenzy.

Dozens of Americans from Idaho, most of them connected to Greg Carr or his family, were visiting.

The presence of these Yankees does not prevent the successive sieges and incursions of baboons into the restaurant's kitchen. Nor the nutritional walks of the warthog bands all over the complex.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Warthog, Warthog

A warthog lurks from within its den.

We join one of the jeeps they follow. We realized that, in most cases, they were the first safaris in which they participated and how they lived with enthusiasm and redoubled interest all the biological learning of Gorongosa:

a team of ornithologists that captured, weighed and identified vultures for further study;

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Vulture

Greg Kaltenecker's team of ornithologists obtain data on a white-headed vulture, a species that he studies and tracks in Gorongosa.

the amazement of its ever-changing ecosystems and the exuberant sunset, melting towards the sides of the mountain.

When the dark sets in, we help them and the guide Moutinho – Monty as they preferred to call him – with a bright spotlight, to find nocturnal species: horse riders, civets and shrill jagras.

On our way back to Chitengo, we passed one of the fires that the authorities used to keep vegetation under control during the dry season.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, Fire

Gorongosa National Park guides observe a fire in Gorongosa National Park.

At the farewell barbecue that followed, one of the representatives of the American group thanked the park for the opportunity.

He took the opportunity to snipe Donald Trump's international relations policies, which cut back on support from USAID and other US programs. USA to the countries most in need.

"We save on the programs that we make friends in the world, we will see ourselves spending on weapons to fight new enemies."

PN Gorongosa is about to receive a land extension to the banks of the Zambezi River.

Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, Wildlife, sunset

Impala scrutinizes the Gorongosa tando on sunset.

These days, it is just as crucial for Gorongosa that foreign aid is for Mozambique to remain at peace.

Ibo Island, Mozambique

Island of a Gone Mozambique

It was fortified in 1791 by the Portuguese who expelled the Arabs from the Quirimbas and seized their trade routes. It became the 2nd Portuguese outpost on the east coast of Africa and later the capital of the province of Cabo Delgado, Mozambique. With the end of the slave trade at the turn of the XNUMXth century and the passage from the capital to Porto Amélia, Ibo Island found itself in the fascinating backwater in which it is located.
bazaruto, Mozambique

The Inverted Mirage of Mozambique

Just 30km off the East African coast, an unlikely but imposing erg rises out of the translucent sea. Bazaruto it houses landscapes and people who have lived apart for a long time. Whoever lands on this lush, sandy island soon finds himself in a storm of awe.
Ilha de Mozambique, Mozambique  

The Island of Ali Musa Bin Bique. Pardon... of Mozambique

With the arrival of Vasco da Gama in the extreme south-east of Africa, the Portuguese took over an island that had previously been ruled by an Arab emir, who ended up misrepresenting the name. The emir lost his territory and office. Mozambique - the molded name - remains on the resplendent island where it all began and also baptized the nation that Portuguese colonization ended up forming.
Cape Cross, Namíbia

The Most Turbulent of the African Colonies

Diogo Cão landed in this cape of Africa in 1486, installed a pattern and turned around. The immediate coastline to the north and south was German, South African, and finally Namibian. Indifferent to successive transfers of nationality, one of the largest seal colonies in the world has maintained its hold there and animates it with deafening marine barks and endless tantrums.
PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.
Enxame Mozambique

Mozambican Fashion Service Area

It is repeated at almost all stops in towns of Mozambique worthy of appearing on maps. The machimbombo (bus) stops and is surrounded by a crowd of eager "businessmen". The products offered can be universal such as water or biscuits or typical of the area. In this region, a few kilometers from Nampula, fruit sales suceeded, in each and every case, quite intense.
Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

On the eminence of the coast of Mozambique, the province of KwaZulu-Natal is home to an unexpected South Africa. Deserted beaches full of dunes, vast estuarine swamps and hills covered with fog fill this wild land also bathed by the Indian Ocean. It is shared by the subjects of the always proud Zulu nation and one of the most prolific and diverse fauna on the African continent.
Lake Manyara NP, Tanzania

Hemingway's Favorite Africa

Situated on the western edge of the Rift Valley, Lake Manyara National Park is one of the smallest but charming and richest in Europe. wild life of Tanzania. In 1933, between hunting and literary discussions, Ernest Hemingway dedicated a month of his troubled life to him. He narrated those adventurous safari days in “The Green Hills of Africa".
Amboseli National Park, Kenya

A Gift from the Kilimanjaro

The first European to venture into these Masai haunts was stunned by what he found. And even today, large herds of elephants and other herbivores roam the pastures irrigated by the snow of Africa's biggest mountain.
Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

On the world map, south of the famous brazilian wetland, a little-known flooded region appears, but almost as vast and rich in biodiversity. the Guarani expression Y bera defines it as “shining waters”. The adjective fits more than its strong luminance.
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Ibo Island a Quirimba IslandMozambique

Ibo to Quirimba with the Tide

For centuries, the natives have traveled in and out of the mangrove between the island of Ibo and Quirimba, in the time that the overwhelming return trip from the Indian Ocean grants them. Discovering the region, intrigued by the eccentricity of the route, we follow its amphibious steps.
Pemba, Mozambique

From Porto Amélia to the Shelter Port of Mozambique

In July 2017, we visited Pemba. Two months later, the first attack took place on Mocímboa da Praia. Nor then do we dare to imagine that the tropical and sunny capital of Cabo Delgado would become the salvation of thousands of Mozambicans fleeing a terrifying jihadism.
Goa island, Ilha de Mozambique, Mozambique

The Island that Illuminates the Island of Mozambique

Located at the entrance to the Mossuril Bay, the small island of Goa is home to a centuries-old lighthouse. Its listed tower signals the first stop of a stunning dhow tour around the old Ilha de Mozambique.

Machangulo, Mozambique

The Golden Peninsula of Machangulo

At a certain point, an ocean inlet divides the long sandy strip full of hyperbolic dunes that delimits Maputo Bay. Machangulo, as the lower section is called, is home to one of the most magnificent coastlines in Mozambique.
savuti, botswana, elephant-eating lions
Savuti, Botswana

Savuti's Elephant-Eating Lions

A patch of the Kalahari Desert dries up or is irrigated depending on the region's tectonic whims. In Savuti, lions have become used to depending on themselves and prey on the largest animals in the savannah.
Annapurna Circuit, Manang to Yak-kharka
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna 10th Circuit: Manang to Yak Kharka, Nepal

On the way to the Annapurnas Even Higher Lands

After an acclimatization break in the near-urban civilization of Manang (3519 m), we made progress again in the ascent to the zenith of Thorong La (5416 m). On that day, we reached the hamlet of Yak Kharka, at 4018 m, a good starting point for the camps at the base of the great canyon.
Architecture & Design

the last address

From the grandiose tombs of Novodevichy, in Moscow, to the boxed Mayan bones of Pomuch, in the Mexican province of Campeche, each people flaunts its own way of life. Even in death.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.
Christmas scene, Shillong, Meghalaya, India
Ceremonies and Festivities
Shillong, India

A Christmas Selfiestan at an India Christian Stronghold

December arrives. With a largely Christian population, the state of Meghalaya synchronizes its Nativity with that of the West and clashes with the overcrowded Hindu and Muslim subcontinent. Shillong, the capital, shines with faith, happiness, jingle bells and bright lighting. To dazzle Indian holidaymakers from other parts and creeds.
Sheets of Bahia, Eternal Diamonds, Brazil
Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

Lençóis da Bahia: not Even Diamonds Are Forever

In the XNUMXth century, Lençóis became the world's largest supplier of diamonds. But the gem trade did not last as expected. Today, the colonial architecture that he inherited is his most precious possession.
Cocoa, Chocolate, Sao Tome Principe, Agua Izé farm
São Tomé and Principe

Cocoa Roças, Corallo and the Chocolate Factory

At the beginning of the century. In the XNUMXth century, São Tomé and Príncipe generated more cocoa than any other territory. Thanks to the dedication of some entrepreneurs, production survives and the two islands taste like the best chocolate.
full cabin
Saariselka, Finland

The Delightful Arctic Heat

It is said that the Finns created SMS so they don't have to talk. The imagination of cold Nordics is lost in the mist of their beloved saunas, real physical and social therapy sessions.
Bungee jumping, Queenstown, New Zealand
Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, the Queen of Extreme Sports

In the century. XVIII, the Kiwi government proclaimed a mining village on the South Island "fit for a queen".Today's extreme scenery and activities reinforce the majestic status of ever-challenging Queenstown.
forms of payment when traveling, shopping abroad
Travel does not cost

On the next trip, don't let your money fly

Not only the time of year and in advance with which we book flights, stays, etc. influence the cost of a trip. The payment methods we use at destinations can make a big difference.
Elalab, aerial view, Guinea Bissau
Elalab, Guinea Bissau

A Tabanca in the Guinea of ​​Endless Meanders

There are countless tributaries and channels that, to the north of the great Cacheu River, wind through mangroves and soak up dry land. Against all odds, Felupe people settled there and maintain prolific villages surrounded by rice fields. Elalab, one of those villages, has become one of the most natural and exuberant tabancas in Guinea Bissau.
sunlight photography, sun, lights
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 2)

One Sun, So Many Lights

Most travel photos are taken in sunlight. Sunlight and weather form a capricious interaction. Learn how to predict, detect and use at its best.
Torshavn, Faroe Islands, rowing
Tórshavn, Faroe Islands

Thor's Faroese Port

It has been the main settlement in the Faroe Islands since at least 850 AD, the year in which Viking settlers established a parliament there. Tórshavn remains one of the smallest capitals in Europe and the divine shelter of about a third of the Faroese population.
VIP lights
Moyo Island, Indonesia

Moyo: An Indonesian Island Just for a Few

Few people know or have had the privilege of exploring the Moyo nature reserve. One of them was Princess Diana who, in 1993, took refuge there from the media oppression that would later victimize her.
Correspondence verification
Winter White
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
silhouette and poem, Cora coralina, Goias Velho, Brazil
Goiás Velho, Brazil

The Life and Work of a Marginal Writer

Born in Goiás, Ana Lins Bretas spent most of her life far from her castrating family and the city. Returning to its origins, it continued to portray the prejudiced mentality of the Brazilian countryside
São Jorge, Azores, Fajã dos Vimes
São Jorge, Azores

From Fajã to Fajã

In the Azores, strips of habitable land at the foot of large cliffs abound. No other island has as many fajãs as the more than 70 in the slender and elevated São Jorge. It was in them that the jorgenses settled. Their busy Atlantic lives rest on them.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Soufrière and Pitons, Saint Luci
Natural Parks
Soufriere, Saint Lucia

The Great Pyramids of the Antilles

Perched above a lush coastline, the twin peaks Pitons are the hallmark of Saint Lucia. They have become so iconic that they have a place in the highest notes of East Caribbean Dollars. Right next door, residents of the former capital Soufrière know how precious their sight is.
Praslin Island, Cocos from the Sea, Seychelles, Eden Cove
UNESCO World Heritage

Praslin, Seychelles


The Eden of the Enigmatic Coco-de-Mer

For centuries, Arab and European sailors believed that the largest seed in the world, which they found on the coasts of the Indian Ocean in the shape of a woman's voluptuous hips, came from a mythical tree at the bottom of the oceans. The sensual island that always generated them left us ecstatic.
aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
Fisherman maneuvers boat near Bonete Beach, Ilhabela, Brazil
Ilhabela, Brazil

In Ilhabela, on the way to Bonete

A community of caiçaras descendants of pirates founded a village in a corner of Ilhabela. Despite the difficult access, Bonete was discovered and considered one of the ten best beaches in Brazil.
Maksim, Sami people, Inari, Finland-2
Inari, Finland

The Guardians of Boreal Europe

Long discriminated against by Scandinavian, Finnish and Russian settlers, the Sami people regain their autonomy and pride themselves on their nationality.
white pass yukon train, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA
On Rails
Skagway, Alaska

A Klondike's Gold Fever Variant

The last great American gold rush is long over. These days, hundreds of cruise ships each summer pour thousands of well-heeled visitors into the shop-lined streets of Skagway.
Margilan, Uzbekistan

An Uzbekistan's Breadwinner

In one of the many bakeries in Margilan, worn out by the intense heat of the tandyr oven, the baker Maruf'Jon works half-baked like the distinctive traditional breads sold throughout Uzbekistan
Women with long hair from Huang Luo, Guangxi, China
Daily life
Longsheng, China

Huang Luo: the Chinese Village of the Longest Hairs

In a multi-ethnic region covered with terraced rice paddies, the women of Huang Luo have surrendered to the same hairy obsession. They let the longest hair in the world grow, years on end, to an average length of 170 to 200 cm. Oddly enough, to keep them beautiful and shiny, they only use water and rice.
Etosha National Park Namibia, rain
PN Etosha, Namíbia

The Lush Life of White Namibia

A vast salt flat rips through the north of Namibia. The Etosha National Park that surrounds it proves to be an arid but providential habitat for countless African wild species.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.