Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina

The Resisting Glacier

argentine colors
Visitors admire the bluish expanse of the Perito Moreno glacier.
fallen bridge
Boat stops at Lake Argentino, in front of the pass a few hours earlier connected by a cyclic ice bridge.
Celebration of the Moment
Couple breaks the ice in front of the Perito Moreno glacier.
Sharp Blue
Sharp ice cliffs at one end of the Perito Moreno glacier.
cold wait
Spectators wait patiently for the ice bridge to fall.
slippery climb
Climber conquers a slippery slope on the surface of the Perito Moreno glacier.
Gaucho guide next to the fence that protects visitors from the slope of Lake Argentino that stops the Perito Moreno glacier.
Colossus Front
The ablation front of the Perito Moreno glacier, invading Lake Argentino.
cold wait II
Spectators wait patiently for the ice bridge to fall.
ice bar
Supply of whiskey installed on a corner of the Perito Moreno glacier.
little human scale
Group of explorers at the base of the glacier ice mountains.
mini iceberg
A fragment resists the melting caused by the heating of the water in Lake Argentino from mid-morning.
Delay on ice
Guide rushes to join a group exploring the glacier's icy surface.
small downfall
Fragment falls from the Perito Moreno glacier, a tiny sample of the upcoming ice bridge collapse.
Warming is supposedly global, but not everywhere. In Patagonia, some rivers of ice resist. From time to time, the advance of the Perito Moreno causes landslides that bring Argentina to a halt.

Doña Alexandra, co-owner of the inn with the same name in El Calafate, does not conform.

It's time for the second telenovela of the day but, like almost all the others, the Argentine channel on which it maintains the TV changed its broadcasting schedule to focus on an event of greater importance.

Family and friends occupy the sofas in the living room. At home, abstracted as they are, they are little concerned about the comfort of various foreign guests who are looking to catch up on news.

Although, on a visible plane, little happens, the Pampas and several other nations keep their antennae facing the end of the world of Patagonia.

More than the broadcast, we were interested in reality. Only 78 km separated them and the decor of that home-inn urges us to leave as soon as possible.

We arrived at the natural amphitheater of the Los Glaciares National Park it's still mid-morning. Reporting teams from Buenos Aires and from other parts of the Planet unloaded equipment from their vans in a light but frigid rain and installed themselves with the best possible view of the scene.

Argentinean flag on the Perito Moreno-Argentina lake-glacier

Visitors admire the bluish expanse of the Perito Moreno glacier.

We went down the winding path. An albiceleste flag waves, fluttering in the furious wind. We stopped by the mast. From there to the north, the majestic domain of the Perito Moreno Glacier prevails.

The origin of this river of ice lies in a low fault in the Andes Mountains. This canyon allows heavy clouds from the Pacific to pass through the Chile to the other side of the partition.

ablation front, peritoneum glacier, argentina

The ablation front of the Perito Moreno glacier, invading Lake Argentino.

And that they discharge moisture in the form of a snow that has been superimposed for many thousands of years on what is the heart of the ventisquero, so the Argentines call them, because the glacial valleys attract continuous gusts.

The weight accumulated by the snow causes it to recrystallize into ice.

This ice gradually descends from the mountain to the east. Thirty kilometers onwards the glacier's ablation front – a massive wall 5 km wide, 60 m high and 170 m of submerged ice – collides with the shore of Lake Argentino and dams the Canal dos Témpanos.

glacial ice escarpments, peritoneum glacier, argentina

Sharp ice cliffs at one end of the Perito Moreno glacier.

Thus, it separates one of the lake's extensions, Brazo Rico, from the main body. The split causes an imbalance of water on both sides. By cutting the flow to Brazo Rico, it makes its flow rise up to 30 meters.

Over time, the pressure and melting of the ice, accelerated by the arrival of summer in the southern hemisphere, ended up sculpting a bridge.

From 1917 to 2012, on twenty-one occasions, this bridge yielded to its own weight and the force exerted by the advance of the glacier against the rock on the bank, about two meters per day.

It ends up collapsing over the lake and causes a loud roar followed by a small tidal wave. The culmination of this entire process is difficult to predict.

spectators await fall, perito moreno glacier, argentina

Spectators wait patiently for the ice bridge to fall.

Hours pass. The cold and rain increase. They chastise the growing crowd, wrapped in plentiful clothing and raincoats, warmed by conversation, scorching coffee and tea. However, the night and the temperature drop. Only professionals continue to expose themselves to aggravated frigidity.

Three uncomfortable days pass like this. El bridge gives quick warnings that excite and encourage people to come back. Eventually, the spectators fill the entire slope and are anxious for the last moment.

From time to time, another fragment of ice falls on the water with a crash. The crowd rejoices. The great downfall, this one, insists on being postponed.

small landslide, perito moreno glacier, argentina

Fragment falls from the Perito Moreno glacier, a tiny sample of the upcoming ice bridge collapse.

A gaucho who works as a part-time guide tells us of his particular agony: “whenever we reach this point, I have to take the same film.

The people I bring get it into their heads that the bridge will fall at any moment and delay the return to the rendezvous point as long as possible.

couple breaks ice, perito moreno glacier, argentina

Couple breaks the ice in front of the Perito Moreno glacier.

As this is a pine cone, here are the televisions and the whole apparatus. It is hard for them to believe that there is still a lot to be done. But look, you can perfectly well spend another 5 or 6 days without anything happening. I've lived through several of these breaks. They are a real lottery.”

gaucho guide, perito moreno glacier, argentina

Gaucho guide next to the fence that protects visitors from the slope of Lake Argentino that stops the Perito Moreno glacier.

Perito Moreno is capricious, we have no doubts about that. Perhaps not even the prestigious naturalist who lent him his name -Francisco Pancasio Moreno – found an explanation for the exceptional phenomenon we were following.

At a time when the hyper-discussed global warming shrinks Greenland visibly and makes them shudder almost all glaciers and icy areas on the face of the Earth, this ventisquero benefits from the winter rigor of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field.

mini iceberg, perito moreno glacier, argentina

A fragment resists the thaw caused by the heating of the water in Lake Argentino from mid-morning onwards.'

It expands and climbs the shore of Lake Argentino over and over again.

We get fed up with the cold and discomfort of immobility. We give up. We ventured on a short hike over crampons and the surface of the glacier.

guide on the glacier, perito moreno glacier, argentina

Guide rushes to join a group exploring the glacier's icy surface.

Leading mountaineers demonstrate climbing techniques that grant them vertical mobility on small glassy mountains.

We go in and out of turquoise caves. We admire rapid streams of water, in the depths of that icy massif.

climb the glacier, perito moreno glacier, argentina

Climber conquers a slippery slope on the surface of the Perito Moreno glacier.

On the way back, we came across icebergs stranded on the coast and watched, in the distance, the collapse of two more large fragments of the bridge's interior. Despite everything, the bridge holds.

The next morning, we woke up crushed by the cold weather and the hard contact of the crampons with the ice.

Doña Alejandra gives us the news with a relief that doesn't even bother to hide: “So you already know? It fell last night. It was pitch dark. Only there the TVs could stand. A half-green video has already been shown but nothing is noticeable. Soap operas have interrupted me over and over for this. Well, at least now it's only about four years from now, with luck more”.

We didn't find anything in El Calafate that promised to entertain us better. Curiosity wins out. We return to the glacier and find the Canal dos Témpanos unhindered.

boat on the lake in front of the bridge, perito moreno glacier, argentina

Boat stops at Lake Argentino, in front of the pass a few hours earlier connected by a cyclic ice bridge.

A patch of the glacier remains embedded against the rocks. The crack is several tens of meters long. On the opposite side, the blue immensity of the main body persists.

We go around Lake Argentino. We admire the result of the great break, together with other visitors who do it aboard one of the panoramic boats that sail there.

At that very moment, despite the southern summer intensifying, the resilient Perito Moreno was already moving once more to the sidelines.

whiskey on ice, perito moreno glacier, argentina

Supply of whiskey installed on a corner of the Perito Moreno glacier.

It wouldn't be long before he regained his bridge of resistance.

Jok​ülsárlón Lagoon, Iceland

The Chant and the Ice

Created by water from the Arctic Ocean and the melting of Europe's largest glacier, Jokülsárlón forms a frigid and imposing domain. Icelanders revere her and pay her surprising tributes.
El Calafate, Argentina

The New Gauchos of Patagonia

Around El Calafate, instead of the usual shepherds on horseback, we come across gauchos equestrian breeders and others who exhibit, to the delight of visitors, the traditional life of the golden pampas.
Salta and Jujuy, Argentina

Through the Highlands of Deep Argentina

A tour through the provinces of Salta and Jujuy takes us to discover a country with no sign of the pampas. Vanished in the Andean vastness, these ends of the Northwest of Argentina have also been lost in time.

icy blue planet

They form at high latitudes and/or altitudes. In Alaska or New Zealand, Argentina or Chile, rivers of ice are always stunning visions of an Earth as frigid as it is inhospitable.
Prince William Sound, Alaska

Journey through a Glacial Alaska

Nestled against the Chugach Mountains, Prince William Sound is home to some of Alaska's stunning scenery. Neither powerful earthquakes nor a devastating oil spill affected its natural splendor.
Husavik a Myvatn, Iceland

Endless Snow on the Island of Fire

When, in mid-May, Iceland already enjoys some sun warmth but the cold and snow persist, the inhabitants give in to an intriguing summer anxiety.
Ushuaia, Argentina

The Last of the Southern Cities

The capital of Tierra del Fuego marks the southern threshold of civilization. From Ushuaia depart numerous incursions to the frozen continent. None of these play and run adventures compares to life in the final city.
Beagle Channel, Argentina

Darwin and the Beagle Channel: on the Theory of the Evolution Route

In 1833, Charles Darwin sailed aboard the "Beagle" through the channels of Tierra del Fuego. His passage through these southern confines shaped the revolutionary theory he formulated of the Earth and its species
El Chalten, Argentina

The Granite Appeal of Patagonia

Two stone mountains have created a border dispute between Argentina and Chile. But these countries are not the only suitors. The Fitz Roy and Torre hills have long attracted die-hard climbers
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Thorong Pedi to High Camp, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, Lone Walker
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 12th - Thorong Phedi a High camp

The Prelude to the Supreme Crossing

This section of the Annapurna Circuit is only 1km away, but in less than two hours it takes you from 4450m to 4850m and to the entrance to the great canyon. Sleeping in High Camp is a test of resistance to Mountain Evil that not everyone passes.
Sheets of Bahia, Eternal Diamonds, Brazil
Architecture & Design
Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

Lençóis da Bahia: not Even Diamonds Are Forever

In the XNUMXth century, Lençóis became the world's largest supplier of diamonds. But the gem trade did not last as expected. Today, the colonial architecture that he inherited is his most precious possession.
The small lighthouse at Kallur, highlighted in the capricious northern relief of the island of Kalsoy.
Kalsoy, Faroe Islands

A Lighthouse at the End of the Faroese World

Kalsoy is one of the most isolated islands in the Faroe archipelago. Also known as “the flute” due to its long shape and the many tunnels that serve it, a mere 75 inhabitants inhabit it. Much less than the outsiders who visit it every year, attracted by the boreal wonder of its Kallur lighthouse.
Newar celebration, Bhaktapur, Nepal
Ceremonies and Festivities
Bhaktapur, Nepal

The Nepalese Masks of Life

The Newar Indigenous People of the Kathmandu Valley attach great importance to the Hindu and Buddhist religiosity that unites them with each other and with the Earth. Accordingly, he blesses their rites of passage with newar dances of men masked as deities. Even if repeated long ago from birth to reincarnation, these ancestral dances do not elude modernity and begin to see an end.
Male Maldives

The Maldives For Real

Seen from the air, Malé, the capital of the Maldives, looks little more than a sample of a crammed island. Those who visit it will not find lying coconut trees, dream beaches, spas or infinite pools. Be dazzled by the genuine Maldivian everyday life that tourist brochures omit.
World Food

Gastronomy Without Borders or Prejudice

Each people, their recipes and delicacies. In certain cases, the same ones that delight entire nations repel many others. For those who travel the world, the most important ingredient is a very open mind.
Dali, China

Chinese Style Flash Mob

The time is set and the place is known. When the music starts playing, a crowd follows the choreography harmoniously until time runs out and everyone returns to their lives.
Spectator, Melbourne Cricket Ground-Rules footbal, Melbourne, Australia
Melbourne, Australia

The Football the Australians Rule

Although played since 1841, Australian Football has only conquered part of the big island. Internationalization has never gone beyond paper, held back by competition from rugby and classical football.
Erika Mother

The Philippine Road Lords

With the end of World War II, the Filipinos transformed thousands of abandoned American jeeps and created the national transportation system. Today, the exuberant jeepneys are for the curves.
Native Americans Parade, Pow Pow, Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States
Albuquerque, USA

When the Drums Sound, the Indians Resist

With more than 500 tribes present, the pow wow "Gathering of the Nations" celebrates the sacred remnants of Native American cultures. But it also reveals the damage inflicted by colonizing civilization.
View of Fa Island, Tonga, Last Polynesian Monarchy
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Exotic Signs of Life

Salto Negao, chapada diamantina, bahia gema, brazil
Chapada Diamantina, Brazil

Gem-stone Bahia

Until the end of the century. In the XNUMXth century, Chapada Diamantina was a land of immeasurable prospecting and ambitions. Now that diamonds are rare, outsiders are eager to discover its plateaus and underground galleries
El Cofete beach from the top of El Islote, Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, Spain
Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

Fuerteventura's Atlantic Ventura

The Romans knew the Canaries as the lucky islands. Fuerteventura, preserves many of the attributes of that time. Its perfect beaches for the windsurf and the kite-surfing or just for bathing, they justify successive “invasions” by the sun-hungry northern peoples. In the volcanic and rugged interior, the bastion of the island's indigenous and colonial cultures remains. We started to unravel it along its long south.
coast, fjord, Seydisfjordur, Iceland
Winter White
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Lake Manyara, National Park, Ernest Hemingway, Giraffes
Lake Manyara NP, Tanzania

Hemingway's Favorite Africa

Situated on the western edge of the Rift Valley, Lake Manyara National Park is one of the smallest but charming and richest in Europe. wild life of Tanzania. In 1933, between hunting and literary discussions, Ernest Hemingway dedicated a month of his troubled life to him. He narrated those adventurous safari days in “The Green Hills of Africa".
Ross Bridge, Tasmania, Australia
Discovering tassie, Part 3, Tasmania, Australia

Tasmania from Top to Bottom

The favorite victim of Australian anecdotes has long been the Tasmania never lost the pride in the way aussie ruder to be. Tassie remains shrouded in mystery and mysticism in a kind of hindquarters of the antipodes. In this article, we narrate the peculiar route from Hobart, the capital located in the unlikely south of the island to the north coast, the turn to the Australian continent.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Matukituki River, New Zealand
Natural Parks
Wanaka, New Zealand

The Antipodes Great Outdoors

If New Zealand is known for its tranquility and intimacy with Nature, Wanaka exceeds any imagination. Located in an idyllic setting between the homonymous lake and the mystic Mount Aspiring, it became a place of worship. Many kiwis aspire to change their lives there.
Agua Grande Platform, Iguacu Falls, Brazil, Argentina
UNESCO World Heritage
Iguazu/Iguazu Falls, Brazil/Argentina

The Great Water Thunder

After a long tropical journey, the Iguaçu River gives a dip for diving. There, on the border between Brazil and Argentina, form the largest and most impressive waterfalls on the face of the Earth.
aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
Soufrière and Pitons, Saint Luci
Soufriere, Saint Lucia

The Great Pyramids of the Antilles

Perched above a lush coastline, the twin peaks Pitons are the hallmark of Saint Lucia. They have become so iconic that they have a place in the highest notes of East Caribbean Dollars. Right next door, residents of the former capital Soufrière know how precious their sight is.
Burning prayers, Ohitaki Festival, fushimi temple, kyoto, japan
Kyoto, Japan

A Combustible Faith

During the Shinto celebration of Ohitaki, prayers inscribed on tablets by the Japanese faithful are gathered at the Fushimi temple. There, while being consumed by huge bonfires, her belief is renewed.
white pass yukon train, Skagway, Gold Route, Alaska, USA
On Rails
Skagway, Alaska

A Klondike's Gold Fever Variant

The last great American gold rush is long over. These days, hundreds of cruise ships each summer pour thousands of well-heeled visitors into the shop-lined streets of Skagway.
emperor akihito waves, emperor without empire, tokyo, japan
Tokyo, Japan

The Emperor Without Empire

After the capitulation in World War II, Japan underwent a constitution that ended one of the longest empires in history. The Japanese emperor is, today, the only monarch to reign without empire.
Ditching, Alaska Fashion Life, Talkeetna
Daily life
Talkeetna, Alaska

Talkeetna's Alaska-Style Life

Once a mere mining outpost, Talkeetna rejuvenated in 1950 to serve Mt. McKinley climbers. The town is by far the most alternative and most captivating town between Anchorage and Fairbanks.
Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

On the eminence of the coast of Mozambique, the province of KwaZulu-Natal is home to an unexpected South Africa. Deserted beaches full of dunes, vast estuarine swamps and hills covered with fog fill this wild land also bathed by the Indian Ocean. It is shared by the subjects of the always proud Zulu nation and one of the most prolific and diverse fauna on the African continent.
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Scenic Flights
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.