Fuerteventura, Canary Islands

Fuerteventura: Canary Island and Time Raft


Surfing at Playa del Moro
Surfers enjoy the gentle waves of Playa del Moro.
Tower and Cone
One of the towers of the Casa de Los Coroneles with the Montaña del Frontón in the background.
El Tostón Cove
The north coast of El Cotillo is goldened by the imminent sunset.
Los Coroneles House
Palm trees prominent in the courtyard of Casa de Los Coroneles, in La Oliva.
tefia
Rural architecture of the village-museum of Tefia.
El Tostón Lighthouse
El Tostón Lighthouse, on the northern edge of the homonymous peninsula.
On Duty
Lifeguard on a PN Corralejo beach.
The great Montaña del Frontón
The conical volcano of El Frontón prominent above the Iglesia de Candelária and the historic center of La Oliva.
El Tostón seafront
Dunes on the opposite coast to PN Corralejo.
El Cotillo Mills
Duo of mills dot the El Cotillo countryside landscape.
Road in PN Corralejo
Iglesia de la Candelaria
Palm trees before the great Christian temple of La Oliva.
Fronton Mountain II
The mountain del Frontón stands out above the ruins, in the vicinity of the Casa de Los Coroneles.
Asphalt in the Dunes
Road runs along the PN Corralejo among the largest dunes of the Canary Islands.
Tindaya Mountain
The iconic and conical volcano of Tindaya, above a cactus hedge.
Basalt Shelter
Bathers sheltered from the trade winds inside a shelter made of basalt.
The Roja Mountain
Jeep drives to the foot of Roja Mountain, east of Fuerteventura.
PN Corralejo
Shadows of the El Tostón Lighthouse
Sun sets behind El Tostón Lighthouse.
nudist bathers
Vacationers from Northern Europe enter the crystal-clear water of Playa del Pozo.
A short ferry crossing and we disembark in Corralejo, at the top northeast of Fuerteventura. With Morocco and Africa a mere 100km away, we get lost in the wonders of unique desert, volcanic and post-colonial sceneries.

On the map, the point at which the Sahara's vastness yields to the nearest Atlantic coincides with Tarfaya and Cape Juby.

These are the coastlines of the Laâyoune-Boujdour-Sakia El Hamra region that Moroccans in the area celebrate, even if they are bathed in a sea that the Alisios keep floured with desert dust.

As we leave Corralejo in the direction of the homonymous natural park, we come across a kind of Canarian extension of this world.

Part of the sand with which the irascible and unstable Alísios sprinkle the Atlantic (and even make it to the Americas) falls on Fuerteventura.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, PN Corralejo

The northeast coast of the island, in particular, receives such quantities that the supreme dunes of the Canaries were formed there, swelled on a base of organic matter generated by the disintegration of shells and the external skeletons of other sea creatures.

Farther away from the Sahara, the water of the Atlantic is crystal clear there. Even if the wind rarely lets up, it flows at temperatures that leave visitors to northern Europe ecstatic.

Corralejo National Park. The Coastal Desert of Fuerteventura

The houses of Corralejo urban are, definitively and without exception, behind. Then, the coastal road zigzags through the Fuerteventura desert below. It reveals wild beaches with unusual bathing atmospheres.

At the entrance to Playa del Pozo, a herd of goats was checking how edible the bushes that dotted the endless white would be.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, PN Corralejo, Playa del Pozo

Vacationers from Northern Europe enter the crystal-clear water of Playa del Pozo.

When they get close to the waterfront, they intrigue an elderly nudist couple who immersed themselves in the crystal-clear water below the El Rio channel.

We insist with the Alísios, as the Alísios do with the landscapes they punish.

Blown from north to south, the winds became so prevalent that the majoreros (natives of Fuerteventura) spread, on that and other beaches, rounded castros made of badly piled basalt boulders.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, PN Corralejo, shelter

Bathers sheltered from the trade winds inside a shelter made of basalt.

We pass by one of these shelters. We see three bicycles parked against the facade opposite the sea, safe from the salty breeze. From the interior, sunshades of various colors emerge.

Determined rooks fly over us. When one of them lands on the top of the refuge, we understand her motto, a bather who will secure them with chocolate biscuits.

To the south, there are more generous beaches: Larga, Los Matos, El Bajo Negro, Dormidero, Del Moro, Del Rosadero and Alzada.

Gentle waves caress Del Moro.

Scattered across its deep inlet, a battalion of foreigners dressed in neoprene practice the elementary movements of surfing.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, PN Corralejo, Playa del Moro

Surfers enjoy the gentle waves of Playa del Moro.

Other beaches are deserted. Or populate them a few bathers adept at seclusion.

Around the Barca Quebrada Calheta, the beach gives itself. Gradually, it gives way to time-worn volcanic ocher.

On an island of this ocher, still surrounded by dunes, the oval crater of Los Apartaderos stands out and, after crossing a series of ravines, the raw slope of another old and dramatic volcano, the Montaña Roja (312m), dominates the road.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, PN Corralejo, Roja Mountain

Jeep drives to the foot of Roja Mountain, east of Fuerteventura.

Volcanic proliferation, especially along the island's crest, extends for a few more tens of kilometers. Force us to proceed south. We crossed the hyperbolic gully of Fimapaire.

In the vicinity of Puerto Lajas, finally, the island flattens out.

It allows us to flex west, towards the interior and La Oliva.

The Former Capital of the Oliva Colonels

The streets of this city crisscross Fuerteventura's historic core, equally shrouded in volcanoes, poorly disguised as hills and hills.

We went down Calle la Orilla. After traveling a few hundred meters, we examine the opposite extreme, a subtropical, western and surreal, Maghreb, Mexican and Andalusian scenery that leaves us lost in space and time.

A painting of this uncharacteristic, in particular, stimulates our senses. To the left of the road, nearby, a leafy palm tree. Opposite, a one-story house, even lower than the yellow lamp that gilds the night.

Fuerteventura Weather Canary Island, Montaña del Frontón, La Oliva

The conical volcano of El Frontón prominent above the Iglesia de Candelária and the historic center of La Oliva.

at the bottom of the street, in the distance, the white and basaltic contours of the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria.

And to close the picture, against the blue sky, the perfect streaked cone of Montaña del Frontón, another eccentric volcanism on the island and an unavoidable element of La Oliva's monumentality.

La Oliva succeeded Betancuria as the capital of Fuerteventura, from 1834 to 1860, in twenty-six of the one hundred and fifty years in which the almighty Colonels, administrators and Military Governors who only responded to the Captain General of the Islands and the Crown, resided in the city. of Castile, by this time, already Bourbon. Always Catholic.

fuerteventura time canary island, iglesia de la Candelaria

Palm trees before the great Christian temple of La Oliva.

Half of the six colonels who ruled the town and region of La Oliva had the nickname Bethencourt. They descended from the conqueror Jean de Bethencourt.

At the end of the XNUMXth century, the kings of Castile entrusted the conquest of the Canary Islands to this determined Norman.

A few years later, as the natives were a mere few hundreds and not very combative, Jean de Bethencourt had already conquered Lanzarote and Fuerteventura.

Los Coroneles House. The Headquarters of the Fuerteventura's Leaders

We pass the city's mother church. Then we got into Calle de Los Coroneles. At a certain point, we were left on a desolate plain, with reddish sandpaper, soon intersected with the foothills of the Montaña del Frontón.

Right there, on the verge of its cone, we find the colonels' headquarters, a two-storey fortified house, almost a castle, with a yellow facade opened by eight symmetrical windows, the four upper ones with small balconies.

Fuerteventura Weather Canary Island, Casa de Los Coroneles and Montanha del Frontón

One of the towers of the Casa de Los Coroneles with the Montaña del Frontón in the background.

Crenellated towers delimit opposite ends. They enclose a nuclear courtyard flanked by porched wooden galleries.

From a corner of this somewhat shady courtyard, two palm trees seek sunlight and the heavenly immensity.

Around the courtyard, on the lower floor, were the servants' quarters, the barns, the surveillance and protocol and archive areas of the barracks. In the superior, the colonels' homes, the kitchen, the dining room, where the bedrooms were located were concentrated, all of them with open views of the surrounding mountains.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, Casa de Los Coroneles

Palm trees prominent in the courtyard of Casa de Los Coroneles, in La Oliva.

We climb to the closest tower to Montaña del Frontón. From the walled top, we unveil another series of smaller buildings, today, mere ruins that serve as a screen at the edge of the hill.

In Search of the Holy Mountain of Tindaya

Back on the ground, we inaugurate the discovery of the La Oliva region around the former capital.

To the north of the city, the scorched and gray domain of another volcano, that of La Arena, stands out. It proved to be so inhospitable and intimidating that the settlers named the adjoining area Malpaís de Arena.

Without disdain for their post-apocalyptic looks, we've reversed the path. We point to the south of Fuerteventura, FV-101 road below, we are looking for a new flagship elevation.

A mountain from Tindaya (400m) is special because the majes (Indigenous people of Fuerteventura) regarded it as sacred, attributed magical powers to it, made ritual offerings to it, and illustrated it with hundreds of petroglyphs with different motifs, including large feet.

Fuerteventura Weather Canary Island, Tindaya Mountain

The iconic and conical volcano of Tindaya, above a cactus hedge.

We go around the mountain, looking for its most volcanic and dramatic perspective but afraid to discover what modernity would have done there. The fears are confirmed.

Despite the successive movements that fight for the defense of tindaya"Tindaya does not touch” and others, by the time of our tour, an old quarry had already disfigured the slope.

All around, too close, modern structures from the homonymous village (such as the soccer field) disrespected the sacred volcano of the majes.

At the same time, projects with immeasurable financial ambitions and a lack of suitable scruples aimed at their mineral wealth.

Tefia's Rural Legacy

We moved to the rural village of Tefia.

Once upon a time, this town The century-old house welcomed hundreds of peasants who subsisted on the dryland cereals they produced there and which were ground in the wind and animal-drawn mills with which the community had equipped itself.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, El Cotillo Mills

Duo of mills dot the El Cotillo countryside landscape.

Especially from the 70s onwards, the intense effort required by agriculture pushed away the new generations.

The people of Tefia moved in force to Puerto Rosario (the island's current capital) and elsewhere.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, Tefia

Rural architecture of the village-museum of Tefia.

In Tefia we now find the Alcogida Museum, created with the aim of perpetuating the island's rural traditions and knowledge.

We had been discovering Fuerteventura's muggy, sometimes torrid interior for hours.

Conversely, when the afternoon and the heat fade away, we return to the island's coastline, the northwest, between El Cotillo and El Tostón, no longer Corralejo's.

El Cotillo and the Northern Lighthouse of El Tostón

As we cross El Cotillo, we see how it evolved from fishing pueblito to the prolific urban and tourist center that rivals Corralejo.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather Seaside El Tostón

Dunes on the opposite coast to PN Corralejo.

We pass along the jagged coves protected by reefs with which the Atlantic holds the city. We see how they repeat north up.

We arrive at El Tostón, a peninsula of dunes and a rocky seaside, set in the ocean at the entrance to the channel that separates Fuerteventura of Lanzarote and, as such, crucial for navigation.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, El Tostón Lighthouse, Sunset

El Tostón Lighthouse, on the northern edge of the homonymous peninsula.

Facing to the west, the sunset has made this area notorious to bend. At that twilight hour, the retreat of the great star was already gilding the castle site, a small cylindrical fortress.

To culminate a crazy drive, we still see the lighthouse del Tostón set on fire, the jagged top and west of Fuerteventura and the Dantesque backgrounds of neighboring Lanzarote.

Fuerteventura Canary Island Weather, El Tostón Lighthouse, Sunset

Sun sets behind El Tostón Lighthouse.

Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, Spain (España)

Fuerteventura's Atlantic Ventura

The Romans knew the Canaries as the lucky islands. Fuerteventura, preserves many of the attributes of that time. Its perfect beaches for the windsurf and the kite-surfing or just for bathing, they justify successive “invasions” by the sun-hungry northern peoples. In the volcanic and rugged interior, the bastion of the island's indigenous and colonial cultures remains. We started to unravel it along its long south.
El Hierro, Canary Islands

The Volcanic Rim of the Canaries and the Old World

Until Columbus arrived in the Americas, El Hierro was seen as the threshold of the known world and, for a time, the Meridian that delimited it. Half a millennium later, the last western island of the Canaries is teeming with exuberant volcanism.
La Graciosa, Canary Islands

The Most Graceful of the Canary Islands

Until 2018, the smallest of the inhabited Canaries did not count for the archipelago. Arriving in La Graciosa, we discover the insular charm of the now eighth island.
PN Timanfaya, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

PN Timanfaya and the Fire Mountains of Lanzarote

Between 1730 and 1736, out of nowhere, dozens of volcanoes in Lanzarote erupted successively. The massive amount of lava they released buried several villages and forced almost half of the inhabitants to emigrate. The legacy of this cataclysm is the current Martian setting of the exuberant PN Timanfaya.
Tenerife, Canary Islands

The Volcano that Haunts the Atlantic

At 3718m, El Teide is the roof of the Canaries and Spain. Not only. If measured from the ocean floor (7500 m), only two mountains are more pronounced. The Guanche natives considered it the home of Guayota, their devil. Anyone traveling to Tenerife knows that old Teide is everywhere.
La Palma, Canary Islands

The "Isla Bonita" of the Canary Islands

In 1986 Madonna Louise Ciccone launched a hit that popularized the attraction exerted by a island imaginary. Ambergris Caye, in Belize, reaped benefits. On this side of the Atlantic, the palmeros that's how they see their real and stunning Canaria.
Tenerife, Canary Islands

East of White Mountain Island

The almost triangular Tenerife has its center dominated by the majestic volcano Teide. At its eastern end, there is another rugged domain, even so, the place of the island's capital and other unavoidable villages, with mysterious forests and incredible abrupt coastlines.
Vegueta, Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

Around the Heart of the Royal Canaries

The old and majestic Vegueta de Las Palmas district stands out in the long and complex Hispanization of the Canaries. After a long period of noble expeditions, the final conquest of Gran Canaria and the remaining islands of the archipelago began there, under the command of the monarchs of Castile and Aragon.
Santa Cruz de La Palma, Canary Islands

A Journey into the History of Santa Cruz de La Palma

It began as a mere Villa del Apurón. Come the century. XVI, the town had not only overcome its difficulties, it was already the third port city in Europe. Heir to this blessed prosperity, Santa Cruz de La Palma has become one of the most elegant capitals in the Canaries.
Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

Grand Canary Islands

It is only the third largest island in the archipelago. It so impressed European navigators and settlers that they got used to treating it as the supreme.
savuti, botswana, elephant-eating lions
safari
Savuti, Botswana

Savuti's Elephant-Eating Lions

A patch of the Kalahari Desert dries up or is irrigated depending on the region's tectonic whims. In Savuti, lions have become used to depending on themselves and prey on the largest animals in the savannah.
Annapurna Circuit, Manang to Yak-kharka
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna 10th Circuit: Manang to Yak Kharka, Nepal

On the way to the Annapurnas Even Higher Lands

After an acclimatization break in the near-urban civilization of Manang (3519 m), we made progress again in the ascent to the zenith of Thorong La (5416 m). On that day, we reached the hamlet of Yak Kharka, at 4018 m, a good starting point for the camps at the base of the great canyon.
Sculptural Garden, Edward James, Xilitla, Huasteca Potosina, San Luis Potosi, Mexico, Cobra dos Pecados
Architecture & Design
Xilitla, San Luis Potosí, Mexico

Edward James' Mexican Delirium

In the rainforest of Xilitla, the restless mind of poet Edward James has twinned an eccentric home garden. Today, Xilitla is lauded as an Eden of the Surreal.
The small lighthouse at Kallur, highlighted in the capricious northern relief of the island of Kalsoy.
Adventure
Kalsoy, Faroe Islands

A Lighthouse at the End of the Faroese World

Kalsoy is one of the most isolated islands in the Faroe archipelago. Also known as “the flute” due to its long shape and the many tunnels that serve it, a mere 75 inhabitants inhabit it. Much less than the outsiders who visit it every year, attracted by the boreal wonder of its Kallur lighthouse.
The Crucifixion in Helsinki
Ceremonies and Festivities
Helsinki, Finland

A Frigid-Scholarly Via Crucis

When Holy Week arrives, Helsinki shows its belief. Despite the freezing cold, little dressed actors star in a sophisticated re-enactment of Via Crucis through streets full of spectators.
Miami, gateway to Latin America, Florida, United States,
Cities
Miami, Florida, USA

The Gateway to Latin America

Not only is the privileged location, between a lush ocean and the green of the Everglades, with the vast Caribbean just to the south. It is tropical, climate and cultural comfort and exemplary urban modernity. Increasingly in Spanish, in a Latin American context.
Meal
World Food

Gastronomy Without Borders or Prejudice

Each people, their recipes and delicacies. In certain cases, the same ones that delight entire nations repel many others. For those who travel the world, the most important ingredient is a very open mind.
Tombola, street bingo-Campeche, Mexico
Culture
Campeche, Mexico

200 Years of Playing with Luck

At the end of the XNUMXth century, the peasants surrendered to a game introduced to cool the fever of cash cards. Today, played almost only for Abuelites, lottery little more than a fun place.
combat arbiter, cockfighting, philippines
Sport
Philippines

When Only Cock Fights Wake Up the Philippines

Banned in much of the First World, cockfighting thrives in the Philippines where they move millions of people and pesos. Despite its eternal problems, it is the sabong that most stimulates the nation.
Young people walk the main street in Chame, Nepal
Traveling
Annapurna Circuit: 1th - Pokhara a ChameNepal

Finally, on the way

After several days of preparation in Pokhara, we left towards the Himalayas. The walking route only starts in Chame, at 2670 meters of altitude, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurna mountain range already in sight. Until then, we complete a painful but necessary road preamble to its subtropical base.
Moa on a beach in Rapa Nui/Easter Island
Ethnic
Easter Island, Chile

The Take-off and Fall of the Bird-Man Cult

Until the XNUMXth century, the natives of Easter Island they carved and worshiped great stone gods. All of a sudden, they started to drop their moai. The veneration of tanatu manu, a half-human, half-sacred leader, decreed after a dramatic competition for an egg.
ice tunnel, black gold route, Valdez, Alaska, USA
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Sensations vs Impressions

Colonial Church of San Francisco de Assis, Taos, New Mexico, USA
History
Taos, USA

North America Ancestor of Taos

Traveling through New Mexico, we were dazzled by the two versions of Taos, that of the indigenous adobe hamlet of Taos Pueblo, one of the towns of the USA inhabited for longer and continuously. And that of Taos city that the Spanish conquerors bequeathed to the Mexico: Mexico gave in to United States and that a creative community of native descendants and migrated artists enhance and continue to praise.
East side of the volcano, Fogo Island, Cape Verde
Islands
Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Around the Fogo Island

Time and the laws of geomorphology dictated that the volcano-island of Fogo rounded off like no other in Cape Verde. Discovering this exuberant Macaronesian archipelago, we circled around it against the clock. We are dazzled in the same direction.
Correspondence verification
Winter White
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Literature
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Iguana in Tulum, Quintana Roo, Mexico
Nature
Yucatan, Mexico

The Sidereal Murphy's Law That Doomed the Dinosaurs

Scientists studying the crater caused by a meteorite impact 66 million years ago have come to a sweeping conclusion: it happened exactly over a section of the 13% of the Earth's surface susceptible to such devastation. It is a threshold zone on the Mexican Yucatan peninsula that a whim of the evolution of species allowed us to visit.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Autumn
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Hammock in Palmeiras, Praia de Uricao-Mar des caraibas, Venezuela
Natural Parks
Henri Pittier NP, Venezuela

PN Henri Pittier: between the Caribbean Sea and the Cordillera da Costa

In 1917, botanist Henri Pittier became fond of the jungle of Venezuela's sea mountains. Visitors to the national park that this Swiss created there are, today, more than they ever wanted
Grand Canyon, Arizona, Travel North America, Abysmal, Hot Shadows
UNESCO World Heritage
Grand Canyon, USA

Journey through the Abysmal North America

The Colorado River and tributaries began flowing into the plateau of the same name 17 million years ago and exposed half of Earth's geological past. They also carved one of its most stunning entrails.
Earp brothers look-alikes and friend Doc Holliday in Tombstone, USA
Characters
tombstone, USA

Tombstone: the City Too Hard to Die

Silver veins discovered at the end of the XNUMXth century made Tombstone a prosperous and conflictive mining center on the frontier of the United States to Mexico. Lawrence Kasdan, Kurt Russell, Kevin Costner and other Hollywood directors and actors made famous the Earp brothers and the bloodthirsty duel of “OK Corral”. The Tombstone, which, over time, has claimed so many lives, is about to last.
Machangulo, Mozambique, sunset
Beaches
Machangulo, Mozambique

The Golden Peninsula of Machangulo

At a certain point, an ocean inlet divides the long sandy strip full of hyperbolic dunes that delimits Maputo Bay. Machangulo, as the lower section is called, is home to one of the most magnificent coastlines in Mozambique.
Jerusalem God, Israel, Golden City
Religion
Jerusalem, Israel

Closer to God

Three thousand years of history as mystical as it is troubled come to life in Jerusalem. Worshiped by Christians, Jews and Muslims, this city radiates controversy but attracts believers from all over the world.
Executives sleep subway seat, sleep, sleep, subway, train, Tokyo, Japan
On Rails
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo's Hypno-Passengers

Japan is served by millions of executives slaughtered with infernal work rates and sparse vacations. Every minute of respite on the way to work or home serves them for their inemuri, napping in public.
Military Religious, Wailing Wall, IDF Flag Oath, Jerusalem, Israel
Society
Jerusalem, Israel

A Festive Wailing Wall

The holiest place in Judaism is not only attended by prayers and prayers. Its ancient stones have witnessed the oath of new IDF recruits for decades and echo the euphoric screams that follow.
Fruit sellers, Swarm, Mozambique
Daily life
Enxame Mozambique

Mozambican Fashion Service Area

It is repeated at almost all stops in towns of Mozambique worthy of appearing on maps. The machimbombo (bus) stops and is surrounded by a crowd of eager "businessmen". The products offered can be universal such as water or biscuits or typical of the area. In this region, a few kilometers from Nampula, fruit sales suceeded, in each and every case, quite intense.
Rottnest Island, Wadjemup, Australia, Quokkas
Wildlife
Wadjemup, Rottnest Island, Australia

Among Quokkas and other Aboriginal Spirits

In the XNUMXth century, a Dutch captain nicknamed this island surrounded by a turquoise Indian Ocean, “Rottnest, a rat's nest”. The quokkas that eluded him were, however, marsupials, considered sacred by the Whadjuk Noongar aborigines of Western Australia. Like the Edenic island on which the British colonists martyred them.
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Scenic Flights
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.