Maui, Hawaii

divine hawaii

hitchhiking at the sea
Dancers disembark about to inaugurate a luau taking place in Lahaina.
The possible surf
Surfers revel in the waves of the North Pacific off Maui.
in tow
Golf cart drives horses to a property on the narrow Hana Highway.
spectator on wheels
Cyclist stops to enjoy a street band performance in Lahaina.
On the loose
Cows graze in a green meadow at the foot of the great volcano Haleakala.
Tattoo house on the elegant waterfront of Lahaina, Hawaii's royal capital before Honolulu.
a rough coastline
Black rocks beach on the south coast of Maui.
Ares of Maui
Maui's elevated surface, equipped with wind energy harvesting turbines.
Erythrina Sandwickensis
The wiliwili trees, golden from falling leaves and exposure to the sun.
hikers in the yao-maui-hawaii valley
Hikers traverse a trail through the green and rainy valley of Iao.
House on the waterfront of Lahaina, one of the oldest cities in Maui and Hawaii.
Speedboats docked in Lahaina, Maui
Lahaina-Maui-Hawaii's Banyan Tree
Musicians play in the shadow of a huge banyan tree
Old steam locomotive at the former Lahaina train station in Maui
Surfer jumps into the Pacific Ocean off the island of Maui.
Budhist temple
Entrance to the Buddhist temple in the Iao Valley.
Off-Maui Hawaii Catamara
Passenger-packed catamaran docked off Maui.
Maui Hawaii Coast
Tropical, windswept corner of Maui's coastline.
Maui-Hawaii Waterfall
Bathers enjoy the freshness of Hana Falls.
Maui is a former chief and hero of Hawaiian religious and traditional imagery. In the mythology of this archipelago, the demigod lassos the sun, raises the sky and performs a series of other feats on behalf of humans. Its namesake island, which the natives believe they created in the North Pacific, is itself prodigious.

By the third flight after the initial landing on the mother island O'ahu, we were approaching the southeastern edge of the Hawaii and its dramatic Big Island. Maui, the second largest in the archipelago, was the ocean stepping stone that followed. The plane lands on the runway at Kahului airport.

Aerial view of Maui, Hawaii

Maui's elevated surface, equipped with wind energy harvesting turbines.

The Portuguese Affiliation of Immediate in Action

We retrieved our bags and hurried to the Al West rent-a-car counter. We were provided with a reserve. Even so, the service employee tells us that he cannot honor the contract. We didn't want to waste time so we immediately looked for an alternative.

Across the street, a Maui Rent-a-Car was advertised. When we explain the situation, the employee regrets but tells us that he has no cars available. “Oh, wait a minute!”, they stop us when he notices one of our passports. We have some there that are going to be sold.

They are better than the ones in the category you had rented but it doesn't matter.” We were surprised at the turnaround. When we look more closely at the “Oliveira” on the badge that identified him, everything makes sense. Out of kind bloody solidarity, we left the airport with a much more spacious and expensive Chrysler 200.

Maui is officially twinned with Funchal. The historic intimacy of the Madeira archipelago with the Hawaiian justifies our luck, this status and much more.

Madeirans and Azoreans: diaspora from the North Atlantic to the North Pacific

In the late 10th century, just when Hawaii needed to increase its sugar supply to California, too many native sugarcane plantation workers were succumbing to disease. They were replaced by thousands of Chinese who, at one point, made up XNUMX% of the archipelago's population.

Even if productive, their reputation was quickly tarnished by increasingly problematic gambling, opium consumption and prostitution exploitation.

The government looked for an alternative. Jason Perry (originally Jacinto Pereira), the Portuguese Consul to Hawaii, suggested to farm owners that they should recruit workers from Madeira and the Azores, where the landscape and climate resembled those of Hawaii and sugarcane has long been a key raw material.

Farmers followed the advice. Between 1878 and 1887, several vessels docked in the Hawaii over 3.300 Portuguese islanders.

Counting the women, children and other relatives who joined them, the number increased. In 1911, the Portuguese in Hawaii numbered more than fifteen thousand. Almost all landed on the island of O'ahu. Many moved to Kauai and others.

They were described as short, slender and dark-skinned due to the many hours they worked in the sun. Some looked so dark that in the first census of the USA, were registered as black.

the Portuguese of Maui

Maui was one of the islands that welcomed them and, over time, learned to respect and value them. This explains the proud Maui Portuguese Cultural Club, now chaired by Sandy Furtado Guadagni, headquartered in the same village where we had landed and met the worthy Mr. Oliveira.

On the website's homepage, the president appears with Ramana Oliveira, identified as a world famous fado singer, who performed in Maui with her “guitarró” Brad Bivens and there he sang the soulful songs of Portugal, called Fado.

The adulterations of the fado singer's name and the definition of the musician prove the inevitable Americanization of the Portuguese in Hawaii, similar to other parts of the USA, and as obvious as your effort to preserve the roots. The site also promotes "From Our Good Home to Your Home” a book of culinary recipes from Madeira and the Azores.

Some time ago, several members of the club traveled on an excursion to discover four of the nine Azorean islands.

We settled in a small inn in Pa'ia and departed from there the following mornings excited to explore Maui.

Maui volcanic beach, Hawaii

Black rocks beach on the south coast of Maui.

The Diverse Roots of Pa'ia

Pa'ia is a small town with less than three thousand inhabitants that was established in 1896 around a providential sugar mill and developed as a result of the profits from the sugarcane plantations.

The success of this mill attracted a flurry of settlers from the China, Philippines. Japan, Korea, Puerto Rico and Portugal. The current residents, in turn, are a multiethnic and multicultural assortment of their descendants. But not only.

In April 1946, World War II had ended on its Pacific stage just a few months before, the village was devastated by a tsunami generated by a strong earthquake in the Aleutian Islands.

It proved the biggest tsunami ever recorded in Hawaii. One hundred and fifty-nine people lost their lives across the archipelago.

Pa'ia only had one victim but suffered massive destruction that took a long time to recover, not least because most of its inhabitants moved to Kahului, at the time known as “dream city”. Today, the population of Pa'ia is even more diverse than it was then.

The Hawaiian Mecca of Windsurfing

A large number of its one-story wooden houses, or little more than that, were transformed into inns, bars, restaurants and the like. Also in a prolific succession of sporting goods stores, especially for surfing and windsurfing.

With the 70s already losing some of its Flower Power, a group of sea lovers visited the island when they discovered that the conditions off Pa'ia were perfect for windsurfing.

The information circulated. In the 80's and 90's, a mighty wave of windsurfers from the four corners of the Earth washed ashore there. Pa'ia was promoted to world windsurfing Mecca.

We spent some time in the village, especially around breakfast, dinner and short walks. Marine sports were not our thing, however, and we had the convenient Chrysler 200 in service.

Travel around Maui

We crossed Kahului. We proceed to the northwest side of the island's volcanic shield.

There was the deep, rainy, verdant valley of Iao that housed a park with a Japanese Buddhist temple that contributes to Hawaii's current spirit of welcome. But not always the aloha ruled.

Buddhist temple in Iao Valley, Maui, Hawaii.

Entrance to the Buddhist temple in the Iao Valley.

The park perpetuates what is considered one of the bloodiest battles in the archipelago's history. In 1790, an army from Maui was faced with an attack from the rival island of Hawaii (Big Island). The two forces had an identical number of men.

After two days of confrontation, none had surrendered. On the third day of the Battle of Kepaniwai (Battle of the Damned Waters), the river below ran red from so much blood but Hawaii it only gained control of Maui, as early as the XNUMXth century.

When we passed there, an intense rain lashed the valley and all the surrounding mountain forest made it impossible to walk along the narrow trails. Little interested in ending up like the warriors, we decided to continue.

We return to Wailuki and to road 340 that skirted the rugged coastline of the upper half of the island's rough eight. We passed villages and places with hardly more Hawaiian names: Kahakuloa, Nakalele, Kapalua.

We keep an eye out for the coral-protected lagoon offshore, which provided natives and thousands of visitors with a magnificent bathing recreation.

Some bathed on wild beaches, others surfed the mighty waves of the North Pacific. Still others had fun aboard catamarans and festive boats of the kind.

Catamara off Maui, Hawaii

Passenger-packed catamaran docked off Maui.

In the far north of Maui, Highway 340 becomes 30. From that area downwards and for tens of kilometers, the western coast is safe from the north wind and becomes sunnier.

Unsurprisingly, it's filled with resorts and golf courses that drain the island's natural beauty and genuineness.

Lahaina: The Old Capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom

So we accelerate towards the south. We only stop at Lahaina (cruel sun, in Hawaiian) the former royal capital of the Hawaii until, in 1845, it moved to present day Honolulu.

Lahaina was also a whaling hub on the island, in spite of the permanent conflict with the resident Christian missionaries who refused to allow boats to dock there, to disembark there, sailors and workers who were full of vices and eager to escape.

Today, its Front Street and the panorama of the adjacent marginal reflect the modernization and sophistication of the city, benefiting from the financial relief of the millionaires of the continental United States that there moor luxury yachts at the disposal of their vacationers whims.

Lahaina is also home to the largest banyan tree of the USA which records indicate was planted in 1873 and is now 18 meters tall. The tree branches into 16 trunks that extend over an area of ​​0.30 hectares. We admire it with the vegetable respect it deserves.

Banyan Tree in Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii

Musicians play in the shadow of a huge banyan tree

But not only. A street band because we had passed through the upright and picturesque center of the village had been run by the authorities.

The five elements then played the violin, the banjo, the guitar and the cello, in the shadow of the endless branches.

However, we found that, at the end of the afternoon, one of the hotels on the waterfront was going to host a Polynesian luau. Interested in watching but also in traveling the stretch of the island's most scenic road, Hana, we hurried back to the starting point.

Hana Highway Above. Even Kaupo

From Pa'ia we continue southeast. For some reason, authorities dubbed the road we're on the Hana Highway.

On the road, there was little. Highway absolutely nothing.

Hana Falls, Maui, Hawaii

Bathers enjoy the freshness of Hana Falls.

Somewhere along the wild, narrow coast between the ocean and the slopes of Koolau Forest, Hana Hwy shrinks to one-way breadth but continues to be traveled in both.

We advance, with strategic stops in idyllic corners of the island, such as the Hana Falls where we bathed and refreshed.

On the way back to the asphalt, a golf cart that was driving horses to a farm stopped us. The strange grid slows us down for a good five kilometers. By way of compensation, on the verge of Hana and the far east of the island, the great spaces of Maui return to the scene.

Horse Trailer on Hana Highway, Maui, Hawaii

Golf cart drives horses to a property on the narrow Hana Highway

Through the foothills of the Great Haleakala

Black sand beaches alternate with pebble ones. A windy, rocky peninsula marks the passage from east to south.

Around Kaupo, lava from Maui's supreme volcano, Haleakala, fills gentle slopes. In certain areas it remains too rough to admit vegetation. In others, it welcomes lush meadows that extend to the edge of the Pacifico bluebird.

On the loose

An inclement wind lashes this coast. Whipping the golden trees wiliwili (Erythrina Sandwickensis) and strip them of the few remaining leaves.

wiliwili trees, maui, hawaii

The wiliwili trees, golden from falling leaves and exposure to the sun.

Still, local ranchers successfully deliver their resilient cattle to such rough pastures, judging by the size and opulence of their properties.

We shivered on our way to Haleakala crater, but the mystical cloudiness that persisted in the heights hides the island's Olympian summit.

In an hour, young dancers would perform in Lahaina the graceful dances that Hawaii's ocean, volcanoes and lush landscapes had long inspired. Since the gods rejected us, let us not waste the best unholy Maui could offer us.

More information about the Hawaiian archipelago and Maui at Go Hawaii.

Tonga, Western Samoa, Polynesia

XXL Pacific

For centuries, the natives of the Polynesian islands subsisted on land and sea. Until the intrusion of colonial powers and the subsequent introduction of fatty pieces of meat, fast food and sugary drinks have spawned a plague of diabetes and obesity. Today, while much of Tonga's national GDP, Western Samoa and neighbors is wasted on these “western poisons”, fishermen barely manage to sell their fish.
Apia, Western Samoa

Fia Fia - High Rotation Polynesian Folklore

From New Zealand to Easter Island and from here to Hawaii, there are many variations of Polynesian dances. Fia Fia's Samoan nights, in particular, are enlivened by one of the more fast-paced styles.
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.
Big Island, Hawaii

Searching for Rivers of Lava

There are five volcanoes that make the big island of Hawaii grow day by day. Kilauea, the most active on Earth, is constantly releasing lava. Despite this, we live a kind of epic to envision it.
Mauna Kea, Hawaii

Mauna Kea: the Volcano with an Eye out in Space

The roof of Hawaii was off-limits to natives because it housed benevolent deities. But since 1968, several nations sacrificed the peace of the gods and built the greatest astronomical station on the face of the Earth.
Tongatapu, Tonga

The Last Polynesian Monarchy

From New Zealand to Easter Island and Hawaii, no other monarchy has resisted the arrival of European discoverers and modernity. For Tonga, for several decades, the challenge was to resist the monarchy.
pearl harbor, Hawaii

The Day Japan Went Too Far

On December 7, 1941, Japan attacked the Pearl Harbor military base. Today, parts of Hawaii look like Japanese colonies but the US will never forget the outrage.
Waikiki, OahuHawaii

The Japanese Invasion of Hawaii

Decades after the attack on Pearl Harbor and from the capitulation in World War II, the Japanese returned to Hawaii armed with millions of dollars. Waikiki, his favorite target, insists on surrendering.
Lion, Elephants, PN Hwange, Zimbabwe
PN Hwange, Zimbabwe

The Legacy of the Late Cecil Lion

On July 1, 2015, Walter Palmer, a dentist and trophy hunter from Minnesota killed Cecil, Zimbabwe's most famous lion. The slaughter generated a viral wave of outrage. As we saw in PN Hwange, nearly two years later, Cecil's descendants thrive.
Aurora lights up the Pisang Valley, Nepal.
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 3rd- Upper Pisang, Nepal,

An Unexpected Snowy Aurora

At the first glimmers of light, the sight of the white mantle that had covered the village during the night dazzles us. With one of the toughest walks on the Annapurna Circuit ahead of us, we postponed the match as much as possible. Annoyed, we left Upper Pisang towards Ngawal when the last snow faded.
Colonial Church of San Francisco de Assis, Taos, New Mexico, USA
Architecture & Design
Taos, USA

North America Ancestor of Taos

Traveling through New Mexico, we were dazzled by the two versions of Taos, that of the indigenous adobe hamlet of Taos Pueblo, one of the towns of the USA inhabited for longer and continuously. And that of Taos city that the Spanish conquerors bequeathed to the Mexicothe Mexico gave in to United States and that a creative community of native descendants and migrated artists enhance and continue to praise.

Mountains of Fire

More or less prominent ruptures in the earth's crust, volcanoes can prove to be as exuberant as they are capricious. Some of its eruptions are gentle, others prove annihilating.
Via Crucis de Boac, Festival de Moriones, Marinduque, Philippines
Ceremonies and Festivities
Marinduque, Philippines

When the Romans Invade the Philippines

Even the Eastern Empire didn't get that far. In Holy Week, thousands of centurions seize Marinduque. There, the last days of Longinus, a legionary converted to Christianity, are re-enacted.
Weddings in Jaffa, Israel,
Jaffa, Israel

Where Tel Aviv Settles Always in Party

Tel Aviv is famous for the most intense night in the Middle East. But, if its youngsters are having fun until exhaustion in the clubs along the Mediterranean, it is more and more in the nearby Old Jaffa that they tie the knot.
Tsukiji fish market, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo, Japan

The Fish Market That Lost its Freshness

In a year, each Japanese eats more than their weight in fish and shellfish. Since 1935, a considerable part was processed and sold in the largest fish market in the world. Tsukiji was terminated in October 2018, and replaced by Toyosu's.
Phi Phi Islands, Thailand

Back to Danny Boyle's The Beach

It's been 15 years since the debut of the backpacker classic based on the novel by Alex Garland. The film popularized the places where it was shot. Shortly thereafter, the XNUMX tsunami literally washed some away off the map. Today, their controversial fame remains intact.

Man: an Ever Tested Species

It's in our genes. For the pleasure of participating, for titles, honor or money, competitions give meaning to the world. Some are more eccentric than others.
Entrance porch in Ellikkalla, Uzbekistan

Journey through the Uzbekistan Pseudo-Roads

Centuries passed. Old and run-down Soviet roads ply deserts and oases once traversed by caravans from the Silk RoadSubject to their yoke for a week, we experience every stop and incursion into Uzbek places, into scenic and historic road rewards.
Moa on a beach in Rapa Nui/Easter Island
Easter Island, Chile

The Take-off and Fall of the Bird-Man Cult

Until the XNUMXth century, the natives of Easter Island they carved and worshiped great stone gods. All of a sudden, they started to drop their moai. The veneration of tanatu manu, a half-human, half-sacred leader, decreed after a dramatic competition for an egg.
ice tunnel, black gold route, Valdez, Alaska, USA
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

Sensations vs Impressions

One of the tallest buildings in Valletta, Malta
Valletta, Malta

An ex-Humble Amazing Capital

At the time of its foundation, the Order of Knights Hospitaller called it "the most humble". Over the centuries, the title ceased to serve him. In 2018, Valletta was the tiniest European Capital of Culture ever and one of the most steeped in history and dazzling in memory.
Guest, Michaelmas Cay, Great Barrier Reef, Australia
Michaelmas Cay, Australia

Miles from Christmas (Part XNUMX)

In Australia, we live the most uncharacteristic of the 24th of December. We set sail for the Coral Sea and disembark on an idyllic islet that we share with orange-billed terns and other birds.
Correspondence verification
Winter White
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
Almada Negreiros, Roça Saudade, Sao Tome
Saudade, São Tomé, São Tomé and Principe

Almada Negreiros: From Saudade to Eternity

Almada Negreiros was born in April 1893, on a farm in the interior of São Tomé. Upon discovering his origins, we believe that the luxuriant exuberance in which he began to grow oxygenated his fruitful creativity.
Semeru (far) and Bromo volcanoes in Java, Indonesia
Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park Indonesia

The Volcanic Sea of ​​Java

The gigantic Tengger caldera rises 2000m in the heart of a sandy expanse of east Java. From it project the highest mountain of this Indonesian island, the Semeru, and several other volcanoes. From the fertility and clemency of this sublime as well as Dantesque setting, one of the few Hindu communities that resisted the Muslim predominance around, thrives.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Natural Parks
unmissable roads

Great Routes, Great Trips

With pompous names or mere road codes, certain roads run through really sublime scenarios. From Road 66 to the Great Ocean Road, they are all unmissable adventures behind the wheel.
Chichen Itza, Yucatan, Mayan History, heads of Kukulkan, El Castillo
UNESCO World Heritage
Chichen Itza, Yucatan, Mexico

On the Edge of the Cenote, at the Heart of the Mayan Civilization

Between the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries AD, Chichen Itza stood out as the most important city in the Yucatan Peninsula and the vast Mayan Empire. If the Spanish Conquest precipitated its decline and abandonment, modern history has consecrated its ruins a World Heritage Site and a Wonder of the World.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Bather, The Baths, Devil's Bay (The Baths) National Park, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands
Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

Virgin Gorda's Divine “Caribbaths”

Discovering the Virgin Islands, we disembark on a tropical and seductive seaside dotted with huge granite boulders. The Baths seem straight out of the Seychelles but they are one of the most exuberant marine scenery in the Caribbean.
holy bookcase
Tsfat (Safed), Israel

When the Kabbalah is a Victim of Itself

In the 50s, Tsfat brought together the artistic life of the young Israeli nation and regained its secular mystique. But famous converts like Madonna have come to disturb the most elemental Kabbalist discretion.
Flam Railway composition below a waterfall, Norway.
On Rails
Nesbyen to Flam, Norway

Flam Railway: Sublime Norway from the First to the Last Station

By road and aboard the Flam Railway, on one of the steepest railway routes in the world, we reach Flam and the entrance to the Sognefjord, the largest, deepest and most revered of the Scandinavian fjords. From the starting point to the last station, this monumental Norway that we have unveiled is confirmed.
A kind of portal
Little Havana, USA

Little Havana of the Nonconformists

Over the decades and until today, thousands of Cubans have crossed the Florida Straits in search of the land of freedom and opportunity. With the US a mere 145 km away, many have gone no further. His Little Havana in Miami is today the most emblematic neighborhood of the Cuban diaspora.
Daily life
Arduous Professions

the bread the devil kneaded

Work is essential to most lives. But, certain jobs impose a degree of effort, monotony or danger that only a few chosen ones can measure up to.
Boat and helmsman, Cayo Los Pájaros, Los Haitises, Dominican Republic
Samaná PeninsulaLos Haitises National Park Dominican Republic

From the Samaná Peninsula to the Dominican Haitises

In the northeast corner of the Dominican Republic, where Caribbean nature still triumphs, we face an Atlantic much more vigorous than expected in these parts. There we ride on a communal basis to the famous Limón waterfall, cross the bay of Samaná and penetrate the remote and exuberant “land of the mountains” that encloses it.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.