Chapada dos Guimarães, Mato Grosso, Brazil

In the Burning Heart of South America


The Geodesic Center of South America
Bridal Veil Waterfall
The Caves Circuit Bus
Blue Lagoon Cave
The Bottom of the Veil
house colors
Church of Our Lady Santana Sacramento Church
Cachoeirinha
Kiogo Brado Cave
another waterfall
soggy jungle
Natural Showers
State Jaguar
Nossa Senhora Santana do Sacramento Church
Aroe Jari Grotto
Buriti Farm Turkeys
The Pit of Love
Outstanding Strength
The Geodesic Center II
It was only in 1909 that the South American geodesic center was established by Cândido Rondon, a Brazilian marshal. Today, it is located in the city of Cuiabá. It has the stunning but overly combustible scenery of Chapada dos Guimarães nearby.

In the midst of the dry season and the scorching heat, the rains had migrated to other parts.

Several rural fires spread in the distance and the fires spread in areas they should not even come close.

We follow the trail that leads to the Véu de Noiva waterfall. We crossed paths with firefighters, some of them, melted, returning from the flame front. Others, clad in the space-yellow uniform in which Brazilian peacekeepers fight, saluting their colleagues and asking theirs for guidance to better deal with the hell that awaits them.

in much of vast Cerrado, fires happen just and just because. They burn to God because of a burden, exhaustion or an untimely rain.

On these sides that we were exploring, the Cerrado could not be left to God-given.

The local Véu de Noiva waterfall is the scenic star of a domain in such a special way that the authorities have declared it a national park, with the responsibility of preservation that such a title entails.

When, after passing several more firefighters, we finally arrived at the viewpoint, we were dazzled by the view ahead.

We immediately perceive the reverence he has won.

The Outstanding View of the Bride's Veil Waterfall

Out of nowhere, the Cerrado appears cornered in a geological dead end, in an open U-shape, made of pink stone. From there, the scene becomes three-dimensional. We see the green and leafy at the bottom of the unexpected canyon.

Above, between the sky and the rocky ceiling, a more rarefied and parched forest that extends until the mist engulfs it.

And joining the two levels, a torrent in fall of 86 meters, due to the summer, with reduced flow, but that the wind made undulating.

Chapada dos Guimarães, Mato Grosso, Brazil, Véu de Noiva waterfall

Elias Silva, the host guide, makes us notice how the smoke dispersed and suffocated the immensity around.

“In normal weather, we could even go and explore Stone Town that is far away. So, let's go for a walk along the waterfalls trail.”

No sooner said than done. But dissatisfied. By comparison with the initial water jump, the waterfalls and cascades that followed proved to be samples of banality.

Chapada dos Guimarães, Mato Grosso, Brazil, another waterfall

We speed up the pace. We left the park earlier than expected.

Towards the city of Chapada de Guimarães, which serves as an urban center for the homonymous park.

There, we enter an inn.

The City of Chapada dos Guimarães, formerly Serra Acima

We set out again to discover the small village, which, as expected, we find organized around a leafy square and the blue and white colonial church of Nª Srª de Santana do Sacramento, built in 1726, now flanked by a leafy jacaranda tree. .

We appreciate the multicolored ground floor houses, occupied by craft and souvenir shops, snack bars and similar establishments.

Chapada dos Guimaraes, Mato Grosso, Brazil

And a series of “buzzers” in the shape of the emblematic animals of the cerrado, the macaw, the jaguar and others.

In its colonial beginnings, the outline of this village existed known as “Serra Acima”, a camp of indigenous Chiquitos, located at an altitude of 800m.

The Mineiro Past of Serra Acima, Improved while Chapada dos Guimarães

It was founded by the first count of Azambuja and the 10th viceroy of Brazil, António Rolim Tavares. And the Jesuit Estevão de Castro managed it, only until the expulsion of the Jesuits from Portuguese territories dictated by the Marquis of Pombal, forced him to disband.

Sierra Above evolved. In 1769, it received the much more pompous name of Santa Anna da Chapada dos Guimarães Miramar, in part, as a tribute to the Portuguese family that was most devoted to it.

The village grew. She got richer. Fruit of the profit generated by prospecting for gold, first carried out by the pioneers, then by determined prospectors.

Its income also increased, agricultural and livestock production and the twenty brandy mills, in the meantime established.

Together, the gold rush, the abundance of brandy and the oppression of black and indigenous slaves generated an unstable and problematic community that, newly endowed with the Christian temple of Santana do Sacramento, the religious tried to tame.

Cuiabá, Mato Grosso, Brazil, Nossa Senhora Santana do Sacramento Church

The situation remained so when, from 1867 onwards, an outbreak of smallpox spawned by the War of Paraguay, the intensification of attacks by the Coroados Indians and, later, the Abolition of Slavery, condemned the Chapada dos Guimarães to a backwater.

The city recovered. It became the largest municipality on the face of the Earth, with a territory of 270 thousand km.2, however, divided among several emerging municipalities.

Chapada dos Guimarães, City still with a lot of Portuguese

Today, it houses almost twenty thousand people from Chapada. Until 2015, two of them were Vera Lúcia Ramalho (with parents from Leiria) and Vinício Correia de Lima, son of Azoreans from Ponta Delgada.

They met in Rio de Janeiro. Later, they moved to Chapada. There they founded the current “Estilo Bacalhau e Vinho”, a restaurant where they only served dishes and specialties based on their faithful friend.

In 2015, Vinício de Lima passed away. Accordingly, only his widow received us, happy to have visitors from the “holy land”, so she shows us the kitchen and introduces the maids who worked there.

We were delighted with starters of cod cakes. And with the most tender and succulent cod dish we've ever tasted.

With the next day's program predicting an awakening at seven, after the farewell, we went straight back to the inn.

The Chapada dos Guimarães Water Circuit

It dawns misty. However, the guide in charge of opening the way for us and Elias, Felipe Desidério, is little intimidated. Knowing the area, he turns on the car's four turn signals and speeds flat up and down.

In less than two winding hours, we arrived at Fazenda Buriti, lost in an area that used to be a dense Cerrado that, little by little, the cattle pastures, soybean, cotton and other plantations destroyed.

The refreshing exception was the riparian forest, adjacent to streams and bodies of water, protected by law from greed and rural devastation.

Cuiaba, Mato Grosso, Brazil, turkeys

Upon arrival at the farm, among turkeys, guinea hens, macaws, dogs and cats, the guides introduce us and Regiani – a client of Felipe’s – to Dª Márcia and Paulo, both surnamed Santos, and their children. of four and five years.

We chatter a little. The redneck family is in charge of preparing a barbecue lunch.

We went out to the Águas do Cerrado Circuit, around his site, along the water courses and the rainforest that the farmers were forced to save. The waterfalls do not excite us.

We are rewarded with the invigorating bath in a crystal clear river well, in the shape of a heart and, as such, known as Pocinho do Amor.

Cuiabá, Mato Grosso, Brazil, Pocinho do Amor

We returned, hungry, when Márcia and Paulo were improving the barbecue. For an hour, we delight in their snacks.

And then the Caves Circuit

Then, we set off for a new circuit, this time, designed according to several hyperbolic or eccentric caves in Chapada.

Cuiabá, Mato Grosso, Brazil, bus from Circuito das Grutas

A small bus takes us and other hikers to the beginning of the trail, which is sandy and, in spaces, given over to a prodigious forest.

The first cave we find is called Aroe Jari.

It became the hallmark of the circuit due to a serpentine strip of damp moss that, due to the light that penetrates, gives the impression of a shallow river.

Cuiabá, Mato Grosso, Brazil, Aroe Jari Cave

At around 4:30 in the afternoon, the sun's rays hit the entrance to the next cave. They make the turquoise tone of its water shine and justify the name of Lagoa Azul.

The final cave, Kiogo Brado, proves to be massive.

It hides its own internal trail of 764 meters, which we walk through, equipped with frontals, dazzled by the large exit corridor, crammed between walls that erosion bequeathed with different mossy strata.

Chapada dos Guimarães, Mato Grosso, Brazil, Kiogo Brado cave

We return to the starting point with the afterglow coloring the Cerrado sky and, already at night, to the logistical base of Chapada dos Guimarães.

In its heyday, the fertile lands around Chapada dos Guimarães supplied other cities in the Mato Grosso valley, especially Cuiabá.

In the vicinity of Chapada, there is a viewpoint installed on the exact equidistant place between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.

Cuiabá and the Geodesic Center of South America

In Cuiabá, however, there is a point with superior geographical importance. We also went there.

A tiled needle at the heart of Praça Pascoal Moreira Cabral points to the sky.

It marks the geodesic center of South America, as determined in 1909 by the Brazilian Marshal Cândido Rondon.

Cuiabá, Mato Grosso, Brazil, geodesic center of South America

Rondon became such a highly regarded figure in Brazil that Rondônia, the state northwest of Mato Grosso and below the immense Amazon, was named in his honor.

In the past, Praça Pascoal Moreira Cabral was known as Campo d'Ourique. There the slaves were whipped and there the horse riding and bullfights took place.

Much later, it hosted the Municipal Council of Cuiabá and the Legislative Assembly of Mato Grosso.

Cuiabá, Mato Grosso, Brazil, Landmark of the Geodesic Center

The obelisk we were examining appears both on the flag of Cuiabá and on the emblem of the Cuiabá Esporte Clube.

Just a few months before the creation of this text, António Oliveira was hired to coach that same time. At the time, he became the fifth Portuguese coach in the 2021-2022 season to play in the main championship of Brazil.

He thus assumed his own prominent role in the Brasileirão and in the equally hot South American heartland.

Serra Dourada, Goiás, Brazil

Where the Cerrado Waves Golden

One of the types of South America savannah, the Cerrado extends over more than a fifth of the Brazilian territory, which supplies much of its fresh water. Located in the heart of the Central Plateau and the state of Goiás, the Serra Dourada State Park shines double.
Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

Lençóis da Bahia: not Even Diamonds Are Forever

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Pirenópolis, Brazil

A Polis in the South American Pyrenees

Mines of Nossa Senhora do Rosário da Meia Ponte were erected by Portuguese pioneers, in the peak of the Gold Cycle. Out of nostalgia, probably Catalan emigrants called the mountains around the Pyrenees. In 1890, already in an era of independence and countless Hellenizations of its cities, Brazilians named this colonial city Pirenópolis.
Chapada Diamantina, Brazil

Gem-stone Bahia

Until the end of the century. In the XNUMXth century, Chapada Diamantina was a land of immeasurable prospecting and ambitions. Now that diamonds are rare, outsiders are eager to discover its plateaus and underground galleries
Goiás Velho, Brazil

A Gold Rush Legacy

Two centuries after the heyday of prospecting, lost in time and in the vastness of the Central Plateau, Goiás esteems its admirable colonial architecture, the surprising wealth that remains to be discovered there.
Sheets of Bahia, Brazil

The Swampy Freedom of Quilombo do Remanso

Runaway slaves have survived for centuries around a wetland in Chapada Diamantina. Today, the quilombo of Remanso is a symbol of their union and resistance, but also of the exclusion to which they were voted.
Fazenda São João, Miranda, Brazil

Pantanal with Paraguay in Sight

When the Fazenda Passo do Lontra decided to expand its ecotourism, it recruited the other family farm, the São João. Further away from the Miranda River, this second property reveals a remote Pantanal, on the verge of Paraguay. The country and the homonymous river.
Brasilia, Brazil

Brasília: from Utopia to the Capital and Political Arena of Brazil

Since the days of the Marquis of Pombal, there has been talk of transferring the capital to the interior. Today, the chimera city continues to look surreal but dictates the rules of Brazilian development.
Marajó Island, Brazil

The Buffalo Island

A vessel that transported buffaloes from the India it will have sunk at the mouth of the Amazon River. Today, the island of Marajó that hosted them has one of the largest herds in the world and Brazil is no longer without these bovine animals.

Florianopolis, Brazil

The South Atlantic Azorean Legacy

During the XNUMXth century, thousands of Portuguese islanders pursued better lives in the southern confines of Brazil. In the villages they founded, traces of affinity with the origins abound.

Passo do Lontra, Miranda, Brazil

The Flooded Brazil of Passo do Lontra

We are on the western edge of Mato Grosso do Sul but bush, on these sides, is something else. In an extension of almost 200.000 km2, the Brazil it appears partially submerged, by rivers, streams, lakes and other waters dispersed in vast alluvial plains. Not even the panting heat of the dry season drains the life and biodiversity of Pantanal places and farms like the one that welcomed us on the banks of the Miranda River.
Curitiba, Brazil

The High-Quality Life of Curitiba

It is not only the altitude of almost 1000 meters at which the city is located. Cosmopolitan and multicultural, the capital of Paraná has a quality of life and human development rating that make it a unique case in Brazil.
Manaus, Brazil

The Jumps and Starts of the former World Rubber Capital

From 1879 to 1912, only the Amazon River basin generated the latex that, from one moment to another, the world needed and, out of nowhere, Manaus became one of the most advanced cities on the face of the Earth. But an English explorer took the tree to Southeast Asia and ruined pioneer production. Manaus once again proved its elasticity. It is the largest city in the Amazon and the seventh in Brazil.
Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
Morro de São Paulo, Brazil

A Divine Seaside of Bahia

Three decades ago, it was just a remote and humble fishing village. Until some post-hippie communities revealed the Morro's retreat to the world and promoted it to a kind of bathing sanctuary.
Ilhabela, Brazil

Ilhabela: After Horror, the Atlantic Beauty

Ninety percent of the preserved Atlantic Forest, idyllic waterfalls and gentle, wild beaches live up to the name. But, if we go back in time, we also reveal the horrific historical facet of Ilhabela.
Ilhabela, Brazil

In Ilhabela, on the way to Bonete

A community of caiçaras descendants of pirates founded a village in a corner of Ilhabela. Despite the difficult access, Bonete was discovered and considered one of the ten best beaches in Brazil.
Itaipu Binational Hydroelectric Power Plant, Brazil

Itaipu Binational Hydroelectric Power Plant: Watt Fever

In 1974, thousands of Brazilians and Paraguayans flocked to the construction zone of the then largest dam in the world. 30 years after completion, Itaipu generates 90% of Paraguay's energy and 20% of Brazil's.
Iguazu/Iguazu Falls, Brazil/Argentina

The Great Water Thunder

After a long tropical journey, the Iguaçu River gives a dip for diving. There, on the border between Brazil and Argentina, form the largest and most impressive waterfalls on the face of the Earth.
Goiás Velho, Brazil

The Life and Work of a Marginal Writer

Born in Goiás, Ana Lins Bretas spent most of her life far from her castrating family and the city. Returning to its origins, it continued to portray the prejudiced mentality of the Brazilian countryside
Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
Safari
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

On the eminence of the coast of Mozambique, the province of KwaZulu-Natal is home to an unexpected South Africa. Deserted beaches full of dunes, vast estuarine swamps and hills covered with fog fill this wild land also bathed by the Indian Ocean. It is shared by the subjects of the always proud Zulu nation and one of the most prolific and diverse fauna on the African continent.
Prayer flags in Ghyaru, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 4th – Upper Banana to Ngawal, Nepal

From Nightmare to Dazzle

Unbeknownst to us, we are faced with an ascent that leads us to despair. We pulled our strength as far as possible and reached Ghyaru where we felt closer than ever to the Annapurnas. The rest of the way to Ngawal felt like a kind of extension of the reward.
Architecture & Design
napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s – Old-Fashioned Car Tour

In a city rebuilt in Art Deco and with an atmosphere of the "crazy years" and beyond, the adequate means of transportation are the elegant classic automobiles of that era. In Napier, they are everywhere.
lagoons and fumaroles, volcanoes, PN tongariro, new zealand
Adventure
Tongariro, New Zealand

The Volcanoes of All Discords

In the late XNUMXth century, an indigenous chief ceded the PN Tongariro volcanoes to the British crown. Today, a significant part of the Maori people claim their mountains of fire from European settlers.
Ceremonies and Festivities
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Make-believe stars

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Kolmanskop, Namib Desert, Namibia
Cities
Kolmanskop, Namíbia

Generated by the Diamonds of Namibe, Abandoned to its Sands

It was the discovery of a bountiful diamond field in 1908 that gave rise to the foundation and surreal opulence of Kolmanskop. Less than 50 years later, gemstones have run out. The inhabitants left the village to the desert.
young saleswoman, nation, bread, uzbekistan
Meal
Fergana Valley, Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan, The Nation That Does Not Lack Bread

Few countries employ cereals like Uzbekistan. In this republic of Central Asia, bread plays a vital and social role. The Uzbeks produce it and consume it with devotion and in abundance.
Saida Ksar Ouled Soltane, festival of the ksour, tataouine, tunisia
Culture
Tataouine, Tunisia

Festival of the Ksour: Sand Castles That Don't Collapse

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Sport
Competitions

Man: an Ever Tested Species

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Iguana in Tulum, Quintana Roo, Mexico
Traveling
Yucatan, Mexico

The Sidereal Murphy's Law That Doomed the Dinosaurs

Scientists studying the crater caused by a meteorite impact 66 million years ago have come to a sweeping conclusion: it happened exactly over a section of the 13% of the Earth's surface susceptible to such devastation. It is a threshold zone on the Mexican Yucatan peninsula that a whim of the evolution of species allowed us to visit.
Tabato, Guinea Bissau, Balafons
Ethnic
Tabato, Guinea Bissau

Tabatô: to the Rhythm of Balafom

During our visit to the tabanca, at a glance, the djidius (poet musicians)  mandingas are organized. Two of the village's prodigious balaphonists take the lead, flanked by children who imitate them. Megaphone singers at the ready, sing, dance and play guitar. There is a chora player and several djambes and drums. Its exhibition generates successive shivers.
Portfolio, Got2Globe, Best Images, Photography, Images, Cleopatra, Dioscorides, Delos, Greece
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Got2Globe Portfolio

The Earthly and the Celestial

aggie gray, Samoa, South Pacific, Marlon Brando Fale
History
Apia, Western Samoa

The Host of the South Pacific

She sold burguês to GI's in World War II and opened a hotel that hosted Marlon Brando and Gary Cooper. Aggie Gray passed away in 2. Her legacy lives on in the South Pacific.
Glass Bottom Boats, Kabira Bay, Ishigaki
Islands
Ishigaki, Japan

The Exotic Japanese Tropics

Ishigaki is one of the last islands in the stepping stone that stretches between Honshu and Taiwan. Ishigakijima is home to some of the most amazing beaches and coastal scenery in these parts of the Pacific Ocean. More and more Japanese who visit them enjoy them with little or no bathing.
Correspondence verification
Winter White
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
Almada Negreiros, Roça Saudade, Sao Tome
Literature
Saudade, São Tomé, São Tomé and Principe

Almada Negreiros: From Saudade to Eternity

Almada Negreiros was born in April 1893, on a farm in the interior of São Tomé. Upon discovering his origins, we believe that the luxuriant exuberance in which he began to grow oxygenated his fruitful creativity.
colorful boat, Gili Islands, Indonesia
Nature
Gili Islands, Indonesia

Gili: the Indonesia's Islands the World Calls “Islands”

They are so humble that they are known by the term bahasa which means only islands. Despite being discreet, the Gili have become the favorite haunt of travelers who pass through Lombok or Bali.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Manatee Creek, Florida, United States of America
Natural Parks
Florida Keys, USA

The Caribbean Stepping Stone of the USA

Os United States continental islands seem to close to the south in its capricious peninsula of Florida. Don't stop there. More than a hundred islands of coral, sand and mangroves form an eccentric tropical expanse that has long seduced American vacationers.
One against all, Sera Monastery, Sacred Debate, Tibet
UNESCO World Heritage
Lhasa, Tibet

Sera, the Monastery of the Sacred Debate

In few places in the world a dialect is used as vehemently as in the monastery of Sera. There, hundreds of monks, in Tibetan, engage in intense and raucous debates about the teachings of the Buddha.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Characters
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Lifou, Loyalty Islands, New Caledonia, Mme Moline popinée
Beaches
LifouLoyalty Islands

The Greatest of the Loyalties

Lifou is the island in the middle of the three that make up the semi-francophone archipelago off New Caledonia. In time, the Kanak natives will decide if they want their paradise independent of the distant metropolis.
Balinese Hinduism, Lombok, Indonesia, Batu Bolong temple, Agung volcano in background
Religion
Lombok, Indonesia

Lombok: Balinese Hinduism on an Island of Islam

The foundation of Indonesia was based on the belief in one God. This ambiguous principle has always generated controversy between nationalists and Islamists, but in Lombok, the Balinese take freedom of worship to heart
On Rails
On Rails

Train Travel: The World Best on Rails

No way to travel is as repetitive and enriching as going on rails. Climb aboard these disparate carriages and trains and enjoy the best scenery in the world on Rails.
Magome to Tsumago, Nakasendo, Path medieval Japan
Society
Magome-Tsumago, Japan

Magome to Tsumago: The Overcrowded Path to the Medieval Japan

In 1603, the Tokugawa shogun dictated the renovation of an ancient road system. Today, the most famous stretch of the road that linked Edo to Kyoto is covered by a mob eager to escape.
the projectionist
Daily life
Sainte-Luce, Martinique

The Nostalgic Projectionist

From 1954 to 1983, Gérard Pierre screened many of the famous films arriving in Martinique. 30 years after the closing of the room in which he worked, it was still difficult for this nostalgic native to change his reel.
Pisteiro San in action at Torra Conservancy, Namibia
Wildlife
Palmwag, Namíbia

In Search of Rhinos

We set off from the heart of the oasis generated by the Uniab River, home to the largest number of black rhinos in southwest Africa. In the footsteps of a bushman tracker, we follow a stealthy specimen, dazzled by a setting with a Martian feel.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.