We were in the back seat. Still awake and aware of the surrounding scenery, despite the long journey from the ruins of Edzná and the tropic-wild confines of the Yucatan peninsula.
Installed in the place of the dead, Wilberth Alexandro Pech also remained alert, keen to convey to us the peculiarities of the places we passed. “because friends, we are now arriving in Champotón.
It may seem hard to believe, but the sea of the Gulf of Mexico that you see there is not always so still. It was on this same coast that, in 1507, Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba did here, after Campeche, the second scale of the Hispanic incursion into these parts of the Americas.
the indigenous cocomes e tutul xiúes received us well. They allowed them to stock up on water and supplies and continue their discovery”.
When nothing seemed to indicate it and, arriving by land, we were treated to a probably even warmer welcome.
It was mid-afternoon. The main city of the state was approaching before our eyes. But a roadside frenzy arouses our attention and curiosity. “Ah, this is one of our fairs. This one is held in honor of the Virgen de la Concépcion.” Wilberth advances to us. I think there will be another plow. We still have time.
Do you want to go take a look?" We don't think twice. A good few years before we had seen a amazing rodeo in Perth, Australia. We were curious to see what Campeche had in store for us. We got out of the car, crossed the road and resumed an always welcome mode of exploration.
The Unexpected Rodeo Charro Mexicano de Champotón
On the other side, a group of ladies the horse rides along a wall that establishes the street boundary for the event. They wear rich and colorful dresses from adelitas or ranchers. They prepare to return to the venue and don't mind – quite the contrary – that we follow them.
Adelite friends and a young charro accompany the action of the “suertes charras” (evidence) from the top of a wall.
We come across a makeshift gate. A kind of porter allows them to pass. Surprised by the unexpected sequence, el charro on duty asks a colleague to go talk to someone else.
When the emissary brings the answer, he invites us in and welcomes us.
We soon realized that we had joined the party, the rectangular section of the charro linen cloth (Mexican arena) where the competition would take place. There, dozens of cowboys, equally dressed up, fraternize and rehearse the steps and movements they are about to show.
Charros practice lasso casting for upcoming trials that require the use of this skill.
One or another joints more uninhibited approach us with short conversations on occasion. Until their counterparts call them for new exercises. At that moment, we were left on our own, between the white walls and the horses and riders enclosed there.
The plow is about to begin.
Place to the Competition of Suertes Charras from the mexican rodeo
An older cowboy with the air and posture of a leader appears out of nowhere and tries to accommodate us in a less inconvenient way. “Friends, if you want to photograph this the best place is the balcony in front. But look, the ladder broke. Be careful going up.”
Spectator and participant observe the charreo races dressed each on their side of the arena wall.
We pass outside and walk along the wall. We came across several other participants in the chareada and their family and friends. It is then that we begin to feel the spirit of community that surrounds the event.
With the help of two expectant mothers, we found such an access point, less problematic than the organizer had done.
We fucked without ceremony and settled on the small cement terrace already half-occupied by more adelitas, by children and a host-host-judge of the event with a scoreboard and a microphone.
Event presenter speaks into the microphone and two adelitas follow the events from the top of a terrace with a privileged view over the arena
“And there is Maz. The one that comes for more! It's already at the door. Carlos Maz, here he comes at the back. Then Maz approaches!”
also from hat and charro uniform, the presenter, narrates the action of the glues in linen cloth, one of several charras suertes in which competitors are evaluated.
Adelita under a sombrero holds a horse close to an access door to the arena of the "lienzo de charro"
One by one, these chase calves that were dropped at the beginning of the party and try to tie their legs or hindquarters in order to immobilize them. The next joint hits only one of the legs and sees the calf running away kicking.
Charro (Mexican Cowboy) pulls a calf during the “Colas en el Lienzo” test, which consists of knocking down a bull by pulling its tail.
Apart from this error, it makes other technical failures. In a closed country Hispanic, the presenter judge does the math without ceremony.
From the amplified chatter, we realized that I had gotten zero minus eight points and a few more discouraging subtractions.
The Mexican Rodeo Underneath Sombreros de Campeche continues
The fair had been going on for a few days. The public was scarce in the stands. Still, the parades, the charras suertes and skirmishes (female acrobatics on horseback) follow one another with the young competitors riding à la mujeriegas – which is like saying from the side – while, on the terrace where we stand, others admire the exhibitions taking place below.
Detail of a vaquero dressed in the Mexican tradition of Campeche.
Right next to us, a Adelita The youngest breaks into angry tears and generates an argument that the father resolves without much appeal.
However, the charred comes to an end. We went down to the ground. As we passed a pick-up truck, we heard again the crying that had started on the terrace.
Precious moments of socializing after the Mexican Rodeo in Campeche
We look out the window and find the young girl that his father had grounded. We tried to cheer her up and we finally understood her reasons: “It's just too hot and I was tired of wearing the skirt and all that outfit. I wanted to get cooler but my father said that today was a special day and I had to endure it.”
Adelita holds her large sombrero on a terrace with a privileged view of the charro linen cloth.
Conversation makes conversation, there we managed to cheer her up. Between playing with the steering wheel and many faces, Aisse enchants us with her mestizo beauty and youthful good mood.
We remember that we have Wilberth waiting for a long time. We're already heading to the exit of the charro linen cloth they call us to a table where an improvised meal takes place. “Sit down!” orders the gentleman who had granted us entry. “They've already worked a lot. Now rest and eat!"
We are served refreshments and mixiote (roasted lamb meat). Guests also satisfy their curiosity with countless questions about where we come from and what we do there.
We enjoy the meal and the pleasant hospitality while we can. Until the sun comes up around the horizon and reminds us that we would already be abusing the patience of the guide and the driver.
Pai holds a bebe vaquero on the wall of the partidero (entrance hall) of Champotón's arena while the participants exercise.
We said goodbye to those warm-hearted people and went a little further up the west coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, aimed at Campeche.
