Bergen, Norway

The Great Hanseatic Port of Norway

The Gamle Bergen Trio
Extras in the reconstructed setting of the Museum of Gamle Bergen,
A Deco-Triumph
Golden deer decorates the facades of one of Bryggen's buildings.
bryggen outdoors
Bryggen's Esplanade filled with diners eager for the rare Bergen sun.
Bryggen frame
Framed perspective of Bryggen's old houses.
sea ​​wolves
One side of the Monument to the Sailor of Bergen.
Blessing of the Church of the Cross
Couple walks in an alley overlooking the Church of the Cross in Bergen.
Norwegian architecture
Retail of Bergen's Old Town, built on profits from northern Norway's trade with the rest of Europe.
Bergen lady
An extra at the Museum of Gamle Bergen contemplates a window.
painted life
A mural of a woman holding a large cod stands on a side wall in Bergen.
An Attachment
Detail of a detached wooden annex of a Bryggen stone building.
The Art of the Grill
Portuguese artist Jorge Maciel grills fish and seafood at Bergen's Fish Market.
Panoramic view of Bryggen buildings, seen from the opposite side of Vagen harbour.
Wood veins
Wooden alley in the heart of the Hanseatic neighborhood of Bryggen.
The sculpture of a wood builder decorates the facade of one of Bryggen's buildings.
Bergen Homes
Bergen's houses occupying the base of the slope behind the city's Fish Museum.
History Pedals
Showgirl at the Gamle Bergen Museum on an old Ferris wheel bicycle.
Monument to the Sailor
Passersby crosses a square, opposite the Monument to the Sailor of Bergen.
Troll Cyclist
Large mural of a Norwegian troll on the side wall of a building in Bergen.
Bergen Homes
Bergen's houses occupying the base of the slope behind the city's Fish Museum.
solo tour
Passerby, wary of the usual Bergen rain, in an alley in Bryggen.
Already populated in the early 1830th century, Bergen became the capital, monopolized northern Norwegian commerce and, until XNUMX, remained one of the largest cities in Scandinavia. Today, Oslo leads the nation. Bergen continues to stand out for its architectural, urban and historical exuberance.

He dictated the sequence of the journey that we would dock in Bergen just like the fishermen and merchants who, over half a millennium, contributed to its wealth and opulence.

We left the distant Balestrand at five in the afternoon. For four long hours, we sailed through the sognefjord and by fjords that flowed south from it, to the open arm of the North Sea where the great city of Vestland had settled.

Around nine o'clock on a sub-arctic night, which was far from being so, surrounded us with a coastal townhouse that was denser and more modern than the ones that had been hitherto.

The ferry has swung to the southeast. Moments later, Bryggen's quasi-lego houses crept in and showed up prominently on the east bank of the port of Vagen, Norway's busiest.

Panoramica, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Panoramic view of Bryggen buildings, seen from the opposite side of Vagen harbour.

The Pseudo-Night Landing at Bryggen

At the end of the day, we did what fishermen and merchants always did after their journeys across the North Sea: we sought the shelter we deserved in the city and regained our energy.

The break of dawn revealed a day identical to the time we would come to spend in Bergen: cloudy, grayish, frigid and damp in a way that, despite the coats we huddled in, seemed to reach our bones.

Fresh on the shore, situated on the edge of the North Sea, Bergen is one of the wettest places in Europe, with substantial rainfall averaging 231 days a year. Until then, we couldn't complain.

We slept a mere hundred meters from Bryggen. Aware of the charm and peculiarity of that centuries-old neighborhood, we set off for there.

Like so many other stops in Norway, Bergen hosts cruise after cruise ship, about 300 a year, that dump a total of half a million outsiders.

Terrace, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Bryggen's Esplanade filled with diners eager for the rare Bergen sun.

Early morning effort was supposed to reward us with avoiding the early morning flood of visitors. It didn't take long for us to realize how much it had been in vain.

We walk along the side street suspended in the mist and anachronistic beauty of the surrounding scenarios. When we find ourselves with the brotherhood of colorful and pointed buildings ahead, we slip into one of the alleys between them, eager to delve into the discovery of Bryggen, or Tyskebryggen, as it is also called, translatable from the Norwegian as the German Dock.

Bryggen's Old Hanseatic Quarter

There we indulged in an intrigued wandering among the beams, boards, sleepers, steps, tiles and others, almost always painted in base and matte tones: yellows, reds, oranges, greys, forming fabled streets and alleys that the centuries and the fluctuations of temperature and of the riverside terrain uneven and warped.

These days, lucrative businesses occupy them. Traditional Norwegian clothing stores, creative and expensive souvenirs and trinkets, also museums, art galleries and restaurants with outrageous prices even by the usual Scandinavian standards.

Connecting the three or four floors of each building and connecting them to one another, each alley is equipped with one or two interior staircases and an outside staircase-walkway that crosses it.

Passersby, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Passerby, wary of the usual Bergen rain, in an alley in Bryggen.

Originally, the buildings were erected by the wealthiest Norwegian merchants. At that time, based on the profits and power of their merchants, a number of cities that are now German declared themselves free and obtained validation from the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire to whom they swore allegiance and allegiance.

The Rise and Monopoly of the Hanseatic League in Bergen

Part of a chain of assimilation, in Bergen, these cities took over the business of buying and exporting salted fish from northern Norway and cereals brought from different parts of Europe.

In 1350, the first outpost of the Hanseatic League (officies) emerged as the headquarters of its overwhelming activity in Norway. As a result of the intensification of this trade, the docks were enlarged and improved. With them, also the warehouses used to store the products, the same ones we used to go around discovering.

Rooftops, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Perspective of the roofs and tops of the houses of Bryggen.

We come across the Hanseatic Museum and Schotstuene. There we find the rooms and assembly halls where, for 400 years, German merchants lived and coexisted drinking beer and where they gathered for all purposes and purposes, from the simple passing of time to making crucial decisions.

The Inevitable Fate of Bryggen Combustion

Given the predominance of wood in Bryggen and surrounding Bergen, problems with easy combustion would be expected. Those responsible were aware of the risk. In such a way that the use of fire was prohibited in Bryggen, except for the Schotstuene building where all food was cooked.

Alley, BryggenBergen-Norway

Wooden alley in the heart of the Hanseatic neighborhood of Bryggen.

Even so, the fires occurred, repeated themselves and remained in the city's history. Records narrate that, in 1702, a great fire spread and destroyed warehouses, rooms and offices. Today, only a quarter of Hanseatic buildings date back to that year.

The fires were extinguished and the buildings were either demolished or rebuilt, and the post-calamity context dictated that, half a century later, they were all taken over by Norwegians. In that same lapse, the presence of the Hanseatic League in Bergen became insipid. Local Kontor has been shut down.

Antique glass, museum Hanseatic League and Schotstuene, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

A rare antique glass in the Museum of the Hanseatic League in Bergen.

Bryggen's story withstood the fire. As in the city of Bergen, which continued to expand through the plain around the inlet that welcomed Vagen and the surrounding slopes above. Today, his houses form one of the most harmonious housing projects in northern Europe.

We pass to the back of Bryggen from Rosenkrantzgaten.

On a stretch of this street filled with a garden, among the trees, we delight in the sight of the community of peaks and roofs that crown the old neighborhood.

Rooftops, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Framed perspective of Bryggen's old houses.

The Panoramic but Freezing View from the Top of Floyen

Seeing it projected over the North Sea and floating in its icy waters is something that no outsider dares to miss. The starting point for Floyen's panoramic heights was just a few minutes' walk from the Bryggen threshold, so we headed there with hurried, enthusiastic steps that kept us warm.

We go up Vetrlidsallmenningen street from the Fish Market threshold to the entrance of the Floibanen cable car. At that time, the crowd disembarked from the cruises was already present.

In good Norwegian fashion, the queue flows quickly and orderly. In a flash, we find ourselves crossing the tunnel at the base of the cable car line and watch the city unfold before our eyes, to the ends of the deep, narrow U in the Tyskebryggen extension, anchoring point of two large cruise ships from which it originated most passengers on the cable car.

Bergen in the North Sea, Norway

Bergen houses organized around the North Sea arm occupied by the port of Vagen.

We go out to a kind of large amphitheater and expose ourselves to a chilling sea breeze. We adjust our coats and move closer to the balcony.

From there, we enjoyed the splendid scenery ahead: Bergen, Norway's second city, home to almost 300.000 inhabitants, yet less than half of the population in Norway. Oslo capital.

We take our photos, we contemplate a little more. Punished by the unexpected frigidity, we cut short our return to the plain of the city's historic center. We return to the Vetrlidsallmenningen.

The Commercial and Gastronomic Frenzy of Bergen's Fish Markets

As we descended it, we noticed a mural that takes up the entire side wall of a historic building below. It depicts a woman, fishmonger or customer, holding a huge fish. The work served as an artistic preamble to what would follow.

Mural in a building, Bergen, Norway

A mural of a woman holding a large cod stands on a side wall in Bergen.

Vetrlidsallmenningen delivers us to the tight rectangular bottom of the port of Vagen. Sailboats and other small boats occupy it.

In the extension of this fund, we find the extension of tents of the Fish and Flower Market of Bergen, a little short of the official Fish Market, the closed, air-conditioned and much more refined one below the almost as vast Tourism of Bergen.

We found it in a frenzy of tastings, sales and purchases, and steaming meal service offerings that delighted and comforted guests from all over the world.

There we can see the best Norwegian salmon on display, huge lobsters, king crabs and sea urchins, caviar, long fresh slices of cod, the North Atlantic cod.

We took a look at two or three more tents. As expected, we detected the cod also in the salt plate mode of which Portugal has become Norway's biggest customer and whose importation has made the wealth of countless fishermen and distributors from these parts of Europe.

The Comforting Encounter with a Busy Countryman

But that's not all. At another stand closer to Vagen, a busy cook catches our eye with the grilled fish and seafood served, serving after serving to anxious guests.

We noticed his long and peculiar mustaches, well combined with the voluminous green beret he wore. We had already noticed that almost all employees in that market were foreigners, several of them dedicated to welcoming and satisfying the masses of customers arriving from their countries.

Jorge Maciel, Fish Market, Bergen, Norway

Portuguese artist Jorge Maciel grills fish and seafood at Bergen's Fish Market.

We found out that it was a compatriot. Unsurprisingly, we established and nurtured a conversation that was too involved and extensive for the culinary predicament in which – as it was called – he found himself. “This isn't bad” he assures us, “…if you discount the lack of sun, the good weather we're used to, of course. I've been living here with my wife for a few years now. I'm an artist but what has given me money is this type of work.”

A Nautical Tour through Vagen, the Port of Bergen

As we were walking around, we boarded a picturesque boat that ensured an itinerary through key places in the extension of Vagen: the Norwegian Fisheries Museum.

Outgoing extras, Gamle Bergen, Norway

Extras in the reconstructed setting of the Museum of Gamle Bergen,

And, surrounded by a leafy garden, the Museum of Old Bergen, animated by a cast of extras who, in the reliable setting of Gamle Bergen, re-enacted aspects of city life in the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries, including adventurous rides on an old bicycle from Ferris wheel difficult to tame.

Showgirl on antique bicycle, Gamle Bergen, Norway

Showgirl at the Gamle Bergen Museum on an old Ferris wheel bicycle.

Faced with the closing time and the extras' anxiety to get rid of historical facts and papers, we too returned to contemporary Bergen, as we had rejected the boat's return to its anchorage, aboard a sophisticated bus.

The Last Return by Bergen

Again on foot, we wander through the centuries-old alleys between the bottom of Vagen and the inner district of Vagsbunnen, around the imposing church of Korsk, ie the Holy Cross.

Korskkirken, Bergen, Norway

Couple walks in an alley overlooking the Church of the Cross in Bergen.

We continued to the south of the city until we came across the square in Torgallmenningen, where the Bergen Monument to the Sailor stood out, serving as a seat for tired passers-by and musicians from immigrants from Eastern Europe.

Monument to the Sailor, Bergen, Norway

One side of the Monument to the Sailor of Bergen.

A short distance away, we enter the grassy and forested domain of Byparken, the place chosen by the city to honor the character and eternal work of Edvard Grieg, the most renowned Norwegian pianist and composer, known worldwide – even if unconsciously – for his contagious melody in "In the Cave of the King of the Mountain".

Bergen still had much of its rich and complex Scandinavian stronghold to unveil, but by then another emblematic Norwegian port awaited us: Stavanger.

Oslo, Norway

A Overcapitalized Capital

One of Norway's problems has been deciding how to invest the billions of euros from its record-breaking sovereign wealth fund. But even immoderate resources don't save Oslo from its social inconsistencies.
Nesbyen to Flam, Norway

Flam Railway: Sublime Norway from the First to the Last Station

By road and aboard the Flam Railway, on one of the steepest railway routes in the world, we reach Flam and the entrance to the Sognefjord, the largest, deepest and most revered of the Scandinavian fjords. From the starting point to the last station, this monumental Norway that we have unveiled is confirmed.
Flam a Balestrand, Norway

Where the Mountains Give In to the Fjords

The final station of the Flam Railway marks the end of the dizzying railway descent from the highlands of Hallingskarvet to the plains of Flam. In this town too small for its fame, we leave the train and sail down the Aurland fjord towards the prodigious Balestrand.
Magma Geopark, Norway

A Somehow Lunar Norway

If we went back to the geological ends of time, we would find southwestern Norway filled with huge mountains and a burning magma that successive glaciers would shape. Scientists have found that the mineral that predominates there is more common on the Moon than on Earth. Several of the scenarios we explore in the region's vast Magma Geopark seem to be taken from our great natural satellite.
Stavanger, Norway

The Motor City of Norway

The abundance of offshore oil and natural gas and the headquarters of the companies in charge of exploiting them have promoted Stavanger from the Norwegian energy capital preserve. Even so, this city didn't conform. With a prolific historical legacy, at the gates of a majestic fjord, cosmopolitan Stavanger has long propelled the Land of the Midnight Sun.
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Thingvellir National Park, Iceland

The Origins of the Remote Viking Democracy

The foundations of popular government that come to mind are the Hellenic ones. But what is believed to have been the world's first parliament was inaugurated in the middle of the XNUMXth century, in Iceland's icy interior.
Husavik a Myvatn, Iceland

Endless Snow on the Island of Fire

When, in mid-May, Iceland already enjoys some sun warmth but the cold and snow persist, the inhabitants give in to an intriguing summer anxiety.
Balestrand, Norway

Balestrand: A Life Among the Fjords

Villages on the slopes of the gorges of Norway are common. Balestrand is at the entrance to three. Its settings stand out in such a way that they have attracted famous painters and continue to seduce intrigued travelers.
Preikestolen - Pulpit Rock, Norway

Pilgrimage to the Pulpit of Rock of Norway

The Norway of the endless fjords abounds in grand scenery. In the heart of Lyse Fjord, the prominent, smooth and almost square top of a cliff over 600 meters forms an unexpected rocky pulpit. Climbing to its heights, peering over the precipices and enjoying the surrounding panoramas is a lot of revelation.
Esteros del Iberá, Pantanal Argentina, Alligator
Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

The Pantanal of the Pampas

On the world map, south of the famous brazilian wetland, a little-known flooded region appears, but almost as vast and rich in biodiversity. the Guarani expression Y bera defines it as “shining waters”. The adjective fits more than its strong luminance.
Prayer flags in Ghyaru, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 4th – Upper Banana to Ngawal, Nepal

From Nightmare to Dazzle

Unbeknownst to us, we are faced with an ascent that leads us to despair. We pulled our strength as far as possible and reached Ghyaru where we felt closer than ever to the Annapurnas. The rest of the way to Ngawal felt like a kind of extension of the reward.
holy plain, Bagan, Myanmar
Architecture & Design
Bagan, Myanmar

The Plain of Pagodas, Temples and other Heavenly Redemptions

Burmese religiosity has always been based on a commitment to redemption. In Bagan, wealthy and fearful believers continue to erect pagodas in hopes of winning the benevolence of the gods.
Full Dog Mushing
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.
Moa on a beach in Rapa Nui/Easter Island
Ceremonies and Festivities
Easter Island, Chile

The Take-off and Fall of the Bird-Man Cult

Until the XNUMXth century, the natives of Easter Island they carved and worshiped great stone gods. All of a sudden, they started to drop their moai. The veneration of tanatu manu, a half-human, half-sacred leader, decreed after a dramatic competition for an egg.
Cathedral of Santa Ana, Vegueta, Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
Vegueta, Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

Around the Heart of the Royal Canaries

The old and majestic Vegueta de Las Palmas district stands out in the long and complex Hispanization of the Canaries. After a long period of noble expeditions, the final conquest of Gran Canaria and the remaining islands of the archipelago began there, under the command of the monarchs of Castile and Aragon.
Margilan, Uzbekistan

An Uzbekistan's Breadwinner

In one of the many bakeries in Margilan, worn out by the intense heat of the tandyr oven, the baker Maruf'Jon works half-baked like the distinctive traditional breads sold throughout Uzbekistan
Kente Festival Agotime, Ghana, gold
Kumasi to Kpetoe, Ghana

A Celebration-Trip of the Ghanian Fashion

After some time in the great Ghanaian capital ashanti we crossed the country to the border with Togo. The reasons for this long journey were the kente, a fabric so revered in Ghana that several tribal chiefs dedicate a sumptuous festival to it every year.
combat arbiter, cockfighting, philippines

When Only Cock Fights Wake Up the Philippines

Banned in much of the First World, cockfighting thrives in the Philippines where they move millions of people and pesos. Despite its eternal problems, it is the sabong that most stimulates the nation.
Seljalandsfoss Escape

The Island of Fire, Ice and Waterfalls

Europe's supreme cascade rushes into Iceland. But it's not the only one. On this boreal island, with constant rain or snow and in the midst of battle between volcanoes and glaciers, endless torrents crash.
Nelson to Wharariki, Abel Tasman NP, New Zealand

The Maori coastline on which Europeans landed

Abel Janszoon Tasman explored more of the newly mapped and mythical "Terra australis" when a mistake soured the contact with natives of an unknown island. The episode inaugurated the colonial history of the New Zealand. Today, both the divine coast on which the episode took place and the surrounding seas evoke the Dutch navigator.
sunlight photography, sun, lights
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 2)

One Sun, So Many Lights

Most travel photos are taken in sunlight. Sunlight and weather form a capricious interaction. Learn how to predict, detect and use at its best.
Pitões das Junias, Montalegre, Portugal
Montalegre, Portugal

Through Alto do Barroso, Top of Trás-os-Montes

we moved from Terras de Bouro for those of Barroso. Based in Montalegre, we wander around the discovery of Paredes do Rio, Tourém, Pitões das Júnias and its monastery, stunning villages on the border of Portugal. If it is true that Barroso has had more inhabitants, visitors should not miss it.
Bay Watch cabin, Miami beach, beach, Florida, United States,
Miami beach, USA

The Beach of All Vanities

Few coasts concentrate, at the same time, so much heat and displays of fame, wealth and glory. Located in the extreme southeast of the USA, Miami Beach is accessible via six bridges that connect it to the rest of Florida. It is meager for the number of souls who desire it.
Maksim, Sami people, Inari, Finland-2
Winter White
Inari, Finland

The Guardians of Boreal Europe

Long discriminated against by Scandinavian, Finnish and Russian settlers, the Sami people regain their autonomy and pride themselves on their nationality.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Ilhéu do Farol, Porto Santo, Ilhéu de Cima, Porto Santo, facing Ponta do Passo.
Ilhéu de Cima, Porto Santo, Portugal

The First Light of Who Navigates From Above

It is part of the group of six islets around the island of Porto Santo, but it is far from being just one more. Even though it is the eastern threshold of the Madeira archipelago, it is the island closest to Portosantenses. At night, it also makes the fanal that confirms the right course for ships coming from Europe.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Howler Monkey, PN Tortuguero, Costa Rica
Natural Parks
Tortuguero NP, Costa Rica

Tortuguero: From the Flooded Jungle to the Caribbean Sea

After two days of impasse due to torrential rain, we set out to discover the Tortuguero National Park. Channel after channel, we marvel at the natural richness and exuberance of this Costa Rican fluvial marine ecosystem.
Cilaos, Reunion Island, Casario Piton des Neiges
UNESCO World Heritage
Cilaos, Reunion Island

Refuge under the roof of the Indian Ocean

Cilaos appears in one of the old green boilers on the island of Réunion. It was initially inhabited by outlaw slaves who believed they were safe at that end of the world. Once made accessible, nor did the remote location of the crater prevent the shelter of a village that is now peculiar and flattered.
Heroes Acre Monument, Zimbabwe
Harare, Zimbabwewe

The Last Rales of Surreal Mugabué

In 2015, Zimbabwe's first lady Grace Mugabe said the 91-year-old president would rule until the age of 100 in a special wheelchair. Shortly thereafter, it began to insinuate itself into his succession. But in recent days, the generals have finally precipitated the removal of Robert Mugabe, who has replaced him with former Vice President Emmerson Mnangagwa.
New South Wales Australia, Beach walk
Batemans Bay to Jervis Bay, Australia

New South Wales, from Bay to Bay

With Sydney behind us, we indulged in the Australian “South Coast”. Along 150km, in the company of pelicans, kangaroos and other peculiar creatures aussie, we let ourselves get lost on a coastline cut between stunning beaches and endless eucalyptus groves.
Motorcyclist in Sela Gorge, Arunachal Pradesh, India
Guwahati a Saddle Pass, India

A Worldly Journey to the Sacred Canyon of Sela

For 25 hours, we traveled the NH13, one of the highest and most dangerous roads in India. We traveled from the Brahmaputra river basin to the disputed Himalayas of the province of Arunachal Pradesh. In this article, we describe the stretch up to 4170 m of altitude of the Sela Pass that pointed us to the Tibetan Buddhist city of Tawang.
On Rails
On Rails

Train Travel: The World Best on Rails

No way to travel is as repetitive and enriching as going on rails. Climb aboard these disparate carriages and trains and enjoy the best scenery in the world on Rails.
View of Fa Island, Tonga, Last Polynesian Monarchy
Tongatapu, Tonga

The Last Polynesian Monarchy

From New Zealand to Easter Island and Hawaii, no other monarchy has resisted the arrival of European discoverers and modernity. For Tonga, for several decades, the challenge was to resist the monarchy.
Women with long hair from Huang Luo, Guangxi, China
Daily life
Longsheng, China

Huang Luo: the Chinese Village of the Longest Hairs

In a multi-ethnic region covered with terraced rice paddies, the women of Huang Luo have surrendered to the same hairy obsession. They let the longest hair in the world grow, years on end, to an average length of 170 to 200 cm. Oddly enough, to keep them beautiful and shiny, they only use water and rice.
PN Tortuguero, Costa Rica, public boat
Tortuguero NP, Costa Rica

The Flooded Costa Rica of Tortuguero

The Caribbean Sea and the basins of several rivers bathe the northeast of the Tica nation, one of the wettest and richest areas in flora and fauna in Central America. Named after the green turtles nest in its black sands, Tortuguero stretches inland for 312 km.2 of stunning aquatic jungle.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.