Bergen, Norway

The Great Hanseatic Port of Norway

The Gamle Bergen Trio
Extras in the reconstructed setting of the Museum of Gamle Bergen,
A Deco-Triumph
Golden deer decorates the facades of one of Bryggen's buildings.
bryggen outdoors
Bryggen's Esplanade filled with diners eager for the rare Bergen sun.
Bryggen frame
Framed perspective of Bryggen's old houses.
sea ​​wolves
One side of the Monument to the Sailor of Bergen.
Blessing of the Church of the Cross
Couple walks in an alley overlooking the Church of the Cross in Bergen.
Norwegian architecture
Retail of Bergen's Old Town, built on profits from northern Norway's trade with the rest of Europe.
Bergen lady
An extra at the Museum of Gamle Bergen contemplates a window.
painted life
A mural of a woman holding a large cod stands on a side wall in Bergen.
An Attachment
Detail of a detached wooden annex of a Bryggen stone building.
The Art of the Grill
Portuguese artist Jorge Maciel grills fish and seafood at Bergen's Fish Market.
Panoramic view of Bryggen buildings, seen from the opposite side of Vagen harbour.
Wood veins
Wooden alley in the heart of the Hanseatic neighborhood of Bryggen.
The sculpture of a wood builder decorates the facade of one of Bryggen's buildings.
Bergen Homes
Bergen's houses occupying the base of the slope behind the city's Fish Museum.
History Pedals
Showgirl at the Gamle Bergen Museum on an old Ferris wheel bicycle.
Monument to the Sailor
Passersby crosses a square, opposite the Monument to the Sailor of Bergen.
Troll Cyclist
Large mural of a Norwegian troll on the side wall of a building in Bergen.
Bergen Homes
Bergen's houses occupying the base of the slope behind the city's Fish Museum.
solo tour
Passerby, wary of the usual Bergen rain, in an alley in Bryggen.
Already populated in the early 1830th century, Bergen became the capital, monopolized northern Norwegian commerce and, until XNUMX, remained one of the largest cities in Scandinavia. Today, Oslo leads the nation. Bergen continues to stand out for its architectural, urban and historical exuberance.

He dictated the sequence of the journey that we would dock in Bergen just like the fishermen and merchants who, over half a millennium, contributed to its wealth and opulence.

We left the distant Balestrand at five in the afternoon. For four long hours, we sailed through the sognefjord and by fjords that flowed south from it, to the open arm of the North Sea where the great city of Vestland had settled.

Around nine o'clock on a sub-arctic night, which was far from being so, surrounded us with a coastal townhouse that was denser and more modern than the ones that had been hitherto.

The ferry has swung to the southeast. Moments later, Bryggen's quasi-lego houses crept in and showed up prominently on the east bank of the port of Vagen, Norway's busiest.

Panoramica, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Panoramic view of Bryggen buildings, seen from the opposite side of Vagen harbour.

The Pseudo-Night Landing at Bryggen

At the end of the day, we did what fishermen and merchants always did after their journeys across the North Sea: we sought the shelter we deserved in the city and regained our energy.

The break of dawn revealed a day identical to the time we would come to spend in Bergen: cloudy, grayish, frigid and damp in a way that, despite the coats we huddled in, seemed to reach our bones.

Fresh on the shore, situated on the edge of the North Sea, Bergen is one of the wettest places in Europe, with substantial rainfall averaging 231 days a year. Until then, we couldn't complain.

We slept a mere hundred meters from Bryggen. Aware of the charm and peculiarity of that centuries-old neighborhood, we set off for there.

Like so many other stops in Norway, Bergen hosts cruise after cruise ship, about 300 a year, that dump a total of half a million outsiders.

Terrace, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Bryggen's Esplanade filled with diners eager for the rare Bergen sun.

Early morning effort was supposed to reward us with avoiding the early morning flood of visitors. It didn't take long for us to realize how much it had been in vain.

We walk along the side street suspended in the mist and anachronistic beauty of the surrounding scenarios. When we find ourselves with the brotherhood of colorful and pointed buildings ahead, we slip into one of the alleys between them, eager to delve into the discovery of Bryggen, or Tyskebryggen, as it is also called, translatable from the Norwegian as the German Dock.

Bryggen's Old Hanseatic Quarter

There we indulged in an intrigued wandering among the beams, boards, sleepers, steps, tiles and others, almost always painted in base and matte tones: yellows, reds, oranges, greys, forming fabled streets and alleys that the centuries and the fluctuations of temperature and of the riverside terrain uneven and warped.

These days, lucrative businesses occupy them. Traditional Norwegian clothing stores, creative and expensive souvenirs and trinkets, also museums, art galleries and restaurants with outrageous prices even by the usual Scandinavian standards.

Connecting the three or four floors of each building and connecting them to one another, each alley is equipped with one or two interior staircases and an outside staircase-walkway that crosses it.

Passersby, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Passerby, wary of the usual Bergen rain, in an alley in Bryggen.

Originally, the buildings were erected by the wealthiest Norwegian merchants. At that time, based on the profits and power of their merchants, a number of cities that are now German declared themselves free and obtained validation from the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire to whom they swore allegiance and allegiance.

The Rise and Monopoly of the Hanseatic League in Bergen

Part of a chain of assimilation, in Bergen, these cities took over the business of buying and exporting salted fish from northern Norway and cereals brought from different parts of Europe.

In 1350, the first outpost of the Hanseatic League (officies) emerged as the headquarters of its overwhelming activity in Norway. As a result of the intensification of this trade, the docks were enlarged and improved. With them, also the warehouses used to store the products, the same ones we used to go around discovering.

Rooftops, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Perspective of the roofs and tops of the houses of Bryggen.

We come across the Hanseatic Museum and Schotstuene. There we find the rooms and assembly halls where, for 400 years, German merchants lived and coexisted drinking beer and where they gathered for all purposes and purposes, from the simple passing of time to making crucial decisions.

The Inevitable Fate of Bryggen Combustion

Given the predominance of wood in Bryggen and surrounding Bergen, problems with easy combustion would be expected. Those responsible were aware of the risk. In such a way that the use of fire was prohibited in Bryggen, except for the Schotstuene building where all food was cooked.

Alley, BryggenBergen-Norway

Wooden alley in the heart of the Hanseatic neighborhood of Bryggen.

Even so, the fires occurred, repeated themselves and remained in the city's history. Records narrate that, in 1702, a great fire spread and destroyed warehouses, rooms and offices. Today, only a quarter of Hanseatic buildings date back to that year.

The fires were extinguished and the buildings were either demolished or rebuilt, and the post-calamity context dictated that, half a century later, they were all taken over by Norwegians. In that same lapse, the presence of the Hanseatic League in Bergen became insipid. Local Kontor has been shut down.

Antique glass, museum Hanseatic League and Schotstuene, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

A rare antique glass in the Museum of the Hanseatic League in Bergen.

Bryggen's story withstood the fire. As in the city of Bergen, which continued to expand through the plain around the inlet that welcomed Vagen and the surrounding slopes above. Today, his houses form one of the most harmonious housing projects in northern Europe.

We pass to the back of Bryggen from Rosenkrantzgaten.

On a stretch of this street filled with a garden, among the trees, we delight in the sight of the community of peaks and roofs that crown the old neighborhood.

Rooftops, Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

Framed perspective of Bryggen's old houses.

The Panoramic but Freezing View from the Top of Floyen

Seeing it projected over the North Sea and floating in its icy waters is something that no outsider dares to miss. The starting point for Floyen's panoramic heights was just a few minutes' walk from the Bryggen threshold, so we headed there with hurried, enthusiastic steps that kept us warm.

We go up Vetrlidsallmenningen street from the Fish Market threshold to the entrance of the Floibanen cable car. At that time, the crowd disembarked from the cruises was already present.

In good Norwegian fashion, the queue flows quickly and orderly. In a flash, we find ourselves crossing the tunnel at the base of the cable car line and watch the city unfold before our eyes, to the ends of the deep, narrow U in the Tyskebryggen extension, anchoring point of two large cruise ships from which it originated most passengers on the cable car.

Bergen in the North Sea, Norway

Bergen houses organized around the North Sea arm occupied by the port of Vagen.

We go out to a kind of large amphitheater and expose ourselves to a chilling sea breeze. We adjust our coats and move closer to the balcony.

From there, we enjoyed the splendid scenery ahead: Bergen, Norway's second city, home to almost 300.000 inhabitants, yet less than half of the population in Norway. Oslo capital.

We take our photos, we contemplate a little more. Punished by the unexpected frigidity, we cut short our return to the plain of the city's historic center. We return to the Vetrlidsallmenningen.

The Commercial and Gastronomic Frenzy of Bergen's Fish Markets

As we descended it, we noticed a mural that takes up the entire side wall of a historic building below. It depicts a woman, fishmonger or customer, holding a huge fish. The work served as an artistic preamble to what would follow.

Mural in a building, Bergen, Norway

A mural of a woman holding a large cod stands on a side wall in Bergen.

Vetrlidsallmenningen delivers us to the tight rectangular bottom of the port of Vagen. Sailboats and other small boats occupy it.

In the extension of this fund, we find the extension of tents of the Fish and Flower Market of Bergen, a little short of the official Fish Market, the closed, air-conditioned and much more refined one below the almost as vast Tourism of Bergen.

We found it in a frenzy of tastings, sales and purchases, and steaming meal service offerings that delighted and comforted guests from all over the world.

There we can see the best Norwegian salmon on display, huge lobsters, king crabs and sea urchins, caviar, long fresh slices of cod, the North Atlantic cod.

We took a look at two or three more tents. As expected, we detected the cod also in the salt plate mode of which Portugal has become Norway's biggest customer and whose importation has made the wealth of countless fishermen and distributors from these parts of Europe.

The Comforting Encounter with a Busy Countryman

But that's not all. At another stand closer to Vagen, a busy cook catches our eye with the grilled fish and seafood served, serving after serving to anxious guests.

We noticed his long and peculiar mustaches, well combined with the voluminous green beret he wore. We had already noticed that almost all employees in that market were foreigners, several of them dedicated to welcoming and satisfying the masses of customers arriving from their countries.

Jorge Maciel, Fish Market, Bergen, Norway

Portuguese artist Jorge Maciel grills fish and seafood at Bergen's Fish Market.

We found out that it was a compatriot. Unsurprisingly, we established and nurtured a conversation that was too involved and extensive for the culinary predicament in which – as it was called – he found himself. “This isn't bad” he assures us, “…if you discount the lack of sun, the good weather we're used to, of course. I've been living here with my wife for a few years now. I'm an artist but what has given me money is this type of work.”

A Nautical Tour through Vagen, the Port of Bergen

As we were walking around, we boarded a picturesque boat that ensured an itinerary through key places in the extension of Vagen: the Norwegian Fisheries Museum.

Outgoing extras, Gamle Bergen, Norway

Extras in the reconstructed setting of the Museum of Gamle Bergen,

And, surrounded by a leafy garden, the Museum of Old Bergen, animated by a cast of extras who, in the reliable setting of Gamle Bergen, re-enacted aspects of city life in the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries, including adventurous rides on an old bicycle from Ferris wheel difficult to tame.

Showgirl on antique bicycle, Gamle Bergen, Norway

Showgirl at the Gamle Bergen Museum on an old Ferris wheel bicycle.

Faced with the closing time and the extras' anxiety to get rid of historical facts and papers, we too returned to contemporary Bergen, as we had rejected the boat's return to its anchorage, aboard a sophisticated bus.

The Last Return by Bergen

Again on foot, we wander through the centuries-old alleys between the bottom of Vagen and the inner district of Vagsbunnen, around the imposing church of Korsk, ie the Holy Cross.

Korskkirken, Bergen, Norway

Couple walks in an alley overlooking the Church of the Cross in Bergen.

We continued to the south of the city until we came across the square in Torgallmenningen, where the Bergen Monument to the Sailor stood out, serving as a seat for tired passers-by and musicians from immigrants from Eastern Europe.

Monument to the Sailor, Bergen, Norway

One side of the Monument to the Sailor of Bergen.

A short distance away, we enter the grassy and forested domain of Byparken, the place chosen by the city to honor the character and eternal work of Edvard Grieg, the most renowned Norwegian pianist and composer, known worldwide – even if unconsciously – for his contagious melody in "In the Cave of the King of the Mountain".

Bergen still had much of its rich and complex Scandinavian stronghold to unveil, but by then another emblematic Norwegian port awaited us: Stavanger.

Oslo, Norway

A Overcapitalized Capital

One of Norway's problems has been deciding how to invest the billions of euros from its record-breaking sovereign wealth fund. But even immoderate resources don't save Oslo from its social inconsistencies.
Nesbyen to Flam, Norway

Flam Railway: Sublime Norway from the First to the Last Station

By road and aboard the Flam Railway, on one of the steepest railway routes in the world, we reach Flam and the entrance to the Sognefjord, the largest, deepest and most revered of the Scandinavian fjords. From the starting point to the last station, this monumental Norway that we have unveiled is confirmed.
Flam a Balestrand, Norway

Where the Mountains Give In to the Fjords

The final station of the Flam Railway marks the end of the dizzying railway descent from the highlands of Hallingskarvet to the plains of Flam. In this town too small for its fame, we leave the train and sail down the Aurland fjord towards the prodigious Balestrand.
Magma Geopark, Norway

A Somehow Lunar Norway

If we went back to the geological ends of time, we would find southwestern Norway filled with huge mountains and a burning magma that successive glaciers would shape. Scientists have found that the mineral that predominates there is more common on the Moon than on Earth. Several of the scenarios we explore in the region's vast Magma Geopark seem to be taken from our great natural satellite.
Stavanger, Norway

The Motor City of Norway

The abundance of offshore oil and natural gas and the headquarters of the companies in charge of exploiting them have promoted Stavanger from the Norwegian energy capital preserve. Even so, this city didn't conform. With a prolific historical legacy, at the gates of a majestic fjord, cosmopolitan Stavanger has long propelled the Land of the Midnight Sun.
Seydisfjordur, Iceland

From the Art of Fishing to the Fishing of Art

When shipowners from Reykjavik bought the Seydisfjordur fishing fleet, the village had to adapt. Today, it captures Dieter Roth's art disciples and other bohemian and creative souls.
Thingvellir National Park, Iceland

The Origins of the Remote Viking Democracy

The foundations of popular government that come to mind are the Hellenic ones. But what is believed to have been the world's first parliament was inaugurated in the middle of the XNUMXth century, in Iceland's icy interior.
Husavik a Myvatn, Iceland

Endless Snow on the Island of Fire

When, in mid-May, Iceland already enjoys some sun warmth but the cold and snow persist, the inhabitants give in to an intriguing summer anxiety.
Serengeti, Great Savannah Migration, Tanzania, wildebeest on river
Serengeti NP, Tanzania

The Great Migration of the Endless Savanna

In these prairies that the Masai people say syringet (run forever), millions of wildebeests and other herbivores chase the rains. For predators, their arrival and that of the monsoon are the same salvation.
Hikers on the Ice Lake Trail, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 7th - Braga - Ice Lake, Nepal

Annapurna Circuit – The Painful Acclimatization of the Ice Lake

On the way up to the Ghyaru village, we had a first and unexpected show of how ecstatic the Annapurna Circuit can be tasted. Nine kilometers later, in Braga, due to the need to acclimatize, we climbed from 3.470m from Braga to 4.600m from Lake Kicho Tal. We only felt some expected tiredness and the increase in the wonder of the Annapurna Mountains.
shadow vs light
Architecture & Design
Kyoto, Japan

The Kyoto Temple Reborn from the Ashes

The Golden Pavilion has been spared destruction several times throughout history, including that of US-dropped bombs, but it did not withstand the mental disturbance of Hayashi Yoken. When we admired him, he looked like never before.
Salto Angel, Rio that falls from the sky, Angel Falls, PN Canaima, Venezuela
PN Canaima, Venezuela

Kerepakupai, Salto Angel: The River that Falls from Heaven

In 1937, Jimmy Angel landed a light aircraft on a plateau lost in the Venezuelan jungle. The American adventurer did not find gold but he conquered the baptism of the longest waterfall on the face of the Earth
Bertie in jalopy, Napier, New Zealand
Ceremonies and Festivities
Napier, New Zealand

Back to the 30s

Devastated by an earthquake, Napier was rebuilt in an almost ground-floor Art Deco and lives pretending to stop in the Thirties. Its visitors surrender to the Great Gatsby atmosphere that the city enacts.
Homer, Alaska, Kachemak Bay
Anchorage to Homer, USA

Journey to the End of the Alaskan Road

If Anchorage became the great city of the 49th US state, Homer, 350km away, is its most famous dead end. Veterans of these parts consider this strange tongue of land sacred ground. They also venerate the fact that, from there, they cannot continue anywhere.
Tsukiji fish market, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo, Japan

The Fish Market That Lost its Freshness

In a year, each Japanese eats more than their weight in fish and shellfish. Since 1935, a considerable part was processed and sold in the largest fish market in the world. Tsukiji was terminated in October 2018, and replaced by Toyosu's.
Tiredness in shades of green
Suzdal, Russia

The Suzdal Cucumber Celebrations

With summer and warm weather, the Russian city of Suzdal relaxes from its ancient religious orthodoxy. The old town is also famous for having the best cucumbers in the nation. When July arrives, it turns the newly harvested into a real festival.
Reindeer Racing, Kings Cup, Inari, Finland
Inari, Finland

The Wackiest Race on the Top of the World

Finland's Lapps have been competing in the tow of their reindeer for centuries. In the final of the Kings Cup - Porokuninkuusajot - , they face each other at great speed, well above the Arctic Circle and well below zero.
Gothic couple

Matarraña to Alcanar, Spain (España)

A Medieval Spain

Traveling through the lands of Aragon and Valencia, we come across towers and detached battlements of houses that fill the slopes. Mile after kilometer, these visions prove to be as anachronistic as they are fascinating.

Resident of Nzulezu, Ghana
Nzulezu, Ghana

A Village Afloat in Ghana

We depart from the seaside resort of Busua, to the far west of the Atlantic coast of Ghana. At Beyin, we veered north towards Lake Amansuri. There we find Nzulezu, one of the oldest and most genuine lake settlements in West Africa.
Rainbow in the Grand Canyon, an example of prodigious photographic light
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio
Natural Light (Part 1)

And Light was made on Earth. Know how to use it.

The theme of light in photography is inexhaustible. In this article, we give you some basic notions about your behavior, to start with, just and only in terms of geolocation, the time of day and the time of year.
Frederiksted, Saint Cross, US Virgin Islands

The Emancipation City of the Danish West Indies

If Christiansted established itself as the capital and main commercial center of the island of Saint Croix, the “sister” of the leeward side, Frederiksted had its civilizational apogee when there was the revolt and subsequent liberation of the slaves that ensured the colony's prosperity.
Figure at Praia do Curral, Ilhabela, Brazil
Ilhabela, Brazil

Ilhabela: After Horror, the Atlantic Beauty

Ninety percent of the preserved Atlantic Forest, idyllic waterfalls and gentle, wild beaches live up to the name. But, if we go back in time, we also reveal the horrific historical facet of Ilhabela.
Passengers on the frozen surface of the Gulf of Bothnia, at the base of the "Sampo" icebreaker, Finland
Winter White
Kemi, Finland

It's No "Love Boat". Breaks the Ice since 1961

Built to maintain waterways through the most extreme arctic winter, the icebreaker Sampo” fulfilled its mission between Finland and Sweden for 30 years. In 1988, he reformed and dedicated himself to shorter trips that allow passengers to float in a newly opened channel in the Gulf of Bothnia, in clothes that, more than special, seem spacey.
Baie d'Oro, Île des Pins, New Caledonia
Île-des-Pins, New Caledonia

The Island that Leaned against Paradise

In 1964, Katsura Morimura delighted the Japan with a turquoise novel set in Ouvéa. But the neighboring Île-des-Pins has taken over the title "The Nearest Island to Paradise" and thrills its visitors.
sunlight photography, sun, lights
Natural Light (Part 2)

One Sun, So Many Lights

Most travel photos are taken in sunlight. Sunlight and weather form a capricious interaction. Learn how to predict, detect and use at its best.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Mount Lamjung Kailas Himal, Nepal, altitude sickness, mountain prevent treat, travel
Natural Parks
Annapurna Circuit: 2nd - Chame to Upper BananaNepal

(I) Eminent Annapurnas

We woke up in Chame, still below 3000m. There we saw, for the first time, the snowy and highest peaks of the Himalayas. From there, we set off for another walk along the Annapurna Circuit through the foothills and slopes of the great mountain range. towards Upper Banana.
Sanahin Cable Car, Armenia
UNESCO World Heritage
Alaverdi, Armenia

A Cable Car Called Ensejo

The top of the Debed River Gorge hides the Armenian monasteries of Sanahin and Haghpat and terraced Soviet apartment blocks. Its bottom houses the copper mine and smelter that sustains the city. Connecting these two worlds is a providential suspended cabin in which the people of Alaverdi count on traveling in the company of God.
Correspondence verification
Rovaniemi, Finland

From the Finnish Lapland to the Arctic. A Visit to the Land of Santa

Fed up with waiting for the bearded old man to descend down the chimney, we reverse the story. We took advantage of a trip to Finnish Lapland and passed through its furtive home.
conversation at sunset
Boracay, Philippines

The Philippine Beach of All Dreams

It was revealed by Western backpackers and the film crew of “Thus Heroes are Born”. Hundreds of resorts and thousands of eastern vacationers followed, whiter than the chalky sand.
Bride gets in car, traditional wedding, Meiji temple, Tokyo, Japan
Tokyo, Japan

A Matchmaking Sanctuary

Tokyo's Meiji Temple was erected to honor the deified spirits of one of the most influential couples in Japanese history. Over time, it specialized in celebrating traditional weddings.
End of the World Train, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
On Rails
Ushuaia, Argentina

Last Station: End of the World

Until 1947, the Tren del Fin del Mundo made countless trips for the inmates of the Ushuaia prison to cut firewood. Today, passengers are different, but no other train goes further south.
Beverage Machines, Japan

The Beverage Machines Empire

There are more than 5 million ultra-tech light boxes spread across the country and many more exuberant cans and bottles of appealing drinks. The Japanese have long since stopped resisting them.
Daily life
Arduous Professions

the bread the devil kneaded

Work is essential to most lives. But, certain jobs impose a degree of effort, monotony or danger that only a few chosen ones can measure up to.
Crocodiles, Queensland Tropical Australia Wild
Cairns to Cape Tribulation, Australia

Tropical Queensland: An Australia Too Wild

Cyclones and floods are just the meteorological expression of Queensland's tropical harshness. When it's not the weather, it's the deadly fauna of the region that keeps its inhabitants on their toes.
The Sounds, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Fiordland, New Zealand

The Fjords of the Antipodes

A geological quirk made the Fiordland region the rawest and most imposing in New Zealand. Year after year, many thousands of visitors worship the sub-domain slashed between Te Anau and Milford Sound.