PN Katmai, Alaska

In the Footsteps of the Grizzly Man


back to civilization
Airplane soars into the sky over Katmai, bound for Homer.
bear curiosity
Females and grizzly cubs peer over the horizon.
alaskan queue
Participants on a Katmai tour follow in line behind the pilot and guide Michael, for safety reasons.
Ephemeral Marks
Brown bear footprints on the waterlogged soil of Katmai's coastline.
Guaranteed snack
Brown bear searches for bivalves in the waterlogged soil of Katmai.
grizzly family
Female and two cubs of grizzlies.
Michael the guide
Michael, pilot and tour guide to Katmai.
summer rest
Bear rests in a green meadow along the coast.
bear and mountains
Large bear walks with the snowy mountains of Katmai in the background.
dry footprints
Brown bear footprints on the soil of Katmai.
Alert
Female and offspring "grizzlies" detect the presence of visitors.
post-landing
Pilot and passengers around the plane has just landed on the coast of Katmai.
Prospecting Patient
Bear searches for bivalves in the hard bed left by the ebb tide around Katmai.
Katmai of the air
Panorama of the inhospitable region of Katmai seen from the air.
brown bears
Two brown bears are looking for bivalves, one of their favorite snacks, along with salmon.
Timothy Treadwell spent summers on end with the bears of Katmai. Traveling through Alaska, we followed some of its trails, but unlike the species' crazy protector, we never went too far.

We watch the endless sunset over Homer, pleased that the Alaskan days remain as summery as they are long.

The moments of total relaxation in the trips we take around the world are not frequent. Aware of its value, we remember the image of the mirror lake and the tiny seaplanes anchored on the banks, against the surrounding coniferous forest.

We had few illusions that this lull would last. To confirm it, the cell phone relic we used in the United States shows signs of life.

On the other end of the line, a pilot tells us: “Well, my friends, I think you are in luck. I have vacancies. Come to the hangar at 7 am!”

Pilot Airplane Grizzly Steps Katmai National Park Alaska

Michael Hughes, pilot and tour guide to Katmai.

Homer's Providential Flight to Katmai

It's not the first time we've praised Werner Herzog's films. Nor will it be the last.

We had seen and admired “Grizzly Man” – his work from 2005 – twice. We knew it would be difficult to get so close to the wild scenery that reveals where we were. THE maritime end of Homer's panhandle it even allowed us to glimpse the still snowy mountains of Katmai National Park.

Aerial view, Katmai, Grizzly Steps, Katmai National Park, Alaska.

Panorama of the inhospitable region of Katmai seen from the air.

Some surgical contacts had left us hoping to get a flight and guide. Michael Hughes granted us that wish. Before the time he dictated, we were already at his company's aerodrome facilities.

Worried about filling the waiting time, the pilot delights us to tell part of his adventurous life in Alaska: “Well, as you might guess, bears are only visitable in late spring and summer.

For the rest of the year, I do other things that are much more risky”. “You're watching National Geographic's programs on Alaskan fisheries (in “Radical Fishing” or, in the original version, “Deadliest Catch) ? “That is really dangerous but it is me and my colleagues who indicate to the boats the position of the shoals, from the air.

Often, on stormy days not conducive to these planes. We made good money but I already got some scares. It's easier with bears, you'll see!”

And Cook Inlet's Panoramic Flyover, Gulf of Alaska

However, missing passengers are admitted. Michael gives us an exhaustive briefing.

We then boarded the plane and took off for the skies over Kachemak Bay. we flew over the Homer's Spit. And Seldovia, an isolated fishing village. Before long, we enter the Gulf of Alaska.

Airplane Homer Grizzly Steps Katmai National Park Alaska

Airplane soars into the sky over Katmai, bound for Homer.

Twenty minutes after take-off, we reached the surroundings of the opposite mountains. Michael asks us to confirm that the seat belts are fastened securely. After which an abbreviated descent begins. We didn't detect any clue signal.

Instead, the pilot brings the plane closer to the sands of the peninsula that Timothy Treadwell made famous.

Timothy Treadwell: The Failed Actor's Career and Loss of Course

In the 90s and early 2000s, Treadwell became a frequent flyer on this route. His repeated arrivals and departures never excited the national park rangers. These officers had a recurring conflict with Timothy due to the environmentalist's ongoing infractions.

Timothy Treadwell was born in Long Island, New York.

His parents claim in the film he always remained a normal child. At least until he left them to pursue university studies. At this stage of his life, he will have started to spread among his colleagues that he was a British orphan born in Australia.

It is known that after losing the role of Woody Boyd to Woody Harrelson on the Serie "Cheers”, became an alcoholic and a drug addict.

It was, in fact, after barely surviving a heroin overdose in the late 80s, that Timothy Treadwell decided to travel to Alaska.

The Self-Proclaimed Defender of the Katmai Bears

Treadwell realized, on that occasion, the urgency of changing his life. He became convinced that his protection from bears was a kind of divine calling he couldn't ignore.

Footprints, Bear, Soggy Ground, Grizzly Footsteps, Katmai National Park, Alaska

Brown bear footprints on the waterlogged soil of Katmai's coastline.

Thereafter, he returned to Katmai year after year. He fraternized with the grizzlies with increasing ease, so much so that he dared to caress and even hug some specimens.

Park rangers and the inhabitants of nearby towns saw in Treadwell an imminent calamity. Disgrace was postponed again and again.

Bear Bivalves Snack Grizzly Steps Katmai National Park Alaska

Brown bear searches for bivalves in the waterlogged soil of Katmai.

In October 2003, with winter just around the corner, salmon hardly appeared in rivers and the hibernation period forced the bears to feed. Timothy pushed his luck in animal territory.

Nature has not forgiven your insolence. Treadwell and his accompanying girlfriend were devoured by a hungry male.

Drama Revealed as Cinema by Werner Herzog

His life was about to be portrayed by Leonardo di Caprio, who would star in the film, but Timothy Treadwell had delivered the videos he had accumulated to an ex-girlfriend and instructed her to show them to the cinema.

Jewel Palovak always thought Werner Herzog was the right man to do it. Out of Jewel's conviction emerged the acclaimed “Grizzly Man”, the main reason we were about to land on a beach in distant Katmai.

light aircraft pilot passengers grizzly steps Katmai National Park Alaska

Pilot and passengers around the plane has just landed on the coast of Katmai.

As soon as we got off the plane, we realized that the coast was full of bears digging for shellfish. We put into practice the instructions given before by Michael.

Finally, among the bears of Katmai National Park

Single file behind the guide, we slowly approach the grizzlies who, satisfied with the natural abundance of food, detect us but ignore us.

Rider Guide Tour Bears Grizzly Steps Katmai National Park Alaska

Participants on a Katmai tour follow in line behind the pilot and guide Michael, for safety reasons.

We left the beach. We go into the adjoining meadow that runs almost through our chests. From there, we got as close as possible to different specimens and photographed them with insufficient care, called to the attention by the guide, each time we were left behind.

An hour and forty minutes later, we take a break to recover energy. Michael makes sure there are no salmon or other fish in the sandwich.

Satisfied with the inspection, he leaves us to snacks and conversation. Then, pressured by the rising tide, we return to the walk.

We spotted several bears within the allotted time. Unexpectedly, we are caught between a female protecting her offspring and a male.

Female Cub Bears Grizzly Footsteps Katmai National Park Alaska

Females and grizzly cubs scan the horizon.

Michael recognizes the risk and gives the signal to withdraw. We still managed to photograph the two plush-looking bears, under the supervision of the mother, but we were forced to catch up with the group already back on the plane.

We knew Herzog's film backwards. We knew the Grizzly Man had lasted 13 years among bears.

Getting caught after a few hours was not in our plans.

Bears Family Cubs Grizzly Footsteps Katmai National Park Alaska

Female and two cubs of grizzlies.

Key West, USA

The Tropical Wild West of the USA

We've come to the end of the Overseas Highway and the ultimate stronghold of propagandism Florida Keys. The continental United States here they surrender to a dazzling turquoise emerald marine vastness. And to a southern reverie fueled by a kind of Caribbean spell.
Ketchikan, Alaska

Here begins Alaska

The reality goes unnoticed in most of the world, but there are two Alaskas. In urban terms, the state is inaugurated in the south of its hidden frying pan handle, a strip of land separated from the contiguous USA along the west coast of Canada. Ketchikan, is the southernmost of Alaskan cities, its Rain Capital and the Salmon Capital of the World.
Cape Cross, Namíbia

The Most Turbulent of the African Colonies

Diogo Cão landed in this cape of Africa in 1486, installed a pattern and turned around. The immediate coastline to the north and south was German, South African, and finally Namibian. Indifferent to successive transfers of nationality, one of the largest seal colonies in the world has maintained its hold there and animates it with deafening marine barks and endless tantrums.
NP Gorongosa, Mozambique

The Wild Heart of Mozambique shows Signs of Life

Gorongosa was home to one of the most exuberant ecosystems in Africa, but from 1980 to 1992 it succumbed to the Civil War waged between FRELIMO and RENAMO. Greg Carr, Voice Mail's millionaire inventor received a message from the Mozambican ambassador to the UN challenging him to support Mozambique. For the good of the country and humanity, Carr pledged to resurrect the stunning national park that the Portuguese colonial government had created there.
Miranda, Brazil

Maria dos Jacarés: the Pantanal shelters such Creatures

Eurides Fátima de Barros was born in the interior of the Miranda region. 38 years ago, he settled in a small business on the side of BR262 that crosses the Pantanal and gained an affinity with the alligators that lived on his doorstep. Disgusted that once upon a time the creatures were being slaughtered there, she began to take care of them. Now known as Maria dos Jacarés, she named each of the animals after a soccer player or coach. It also makes sure they recognize your calls.
Anchorage to Homer, USA

Journey to the End of the Alaskan Road

If Anchorage became the great city of the 49th US state, Homer, 350km away, is its most famous dead end. Veterans of these parts consider this strange tongue of land sacred ground. They also venerate the fact that, from there, they cannot continue anywhere.
Mount Denali, Alaska

The Sacred Ceiling of North America

The Athabascan Indians called him Denali, or the Great, and they revered his haughtiness. This stunning mountain has aroused the greed of climbers and a long succession of record-breaking climbs.
Sainte-Luce, Martinique

The Nostalgic Projectionist

From 1954 to 1983, Gérard Pierre screened many of the famous films arriving in Martinique. 30 years after the closing of the room in which he worked, it was still difficult for this nostalgic native to change his reel.
Juneau, Alaska

The Little Capital of Greater Alaska

From June to August, Juneau disappears behind cruise ships that dock at its dockside. Even so, it is in this small capital that the fate of the 49th American state is decided.
Talkeetna, Alaska

Talkeetna's Alaska-Style Life

Once a mere mining outpost, Talkeetna rejuvenated in 1950 to serve Mt. McKinley climbers. The town is by far the most alternative and most captivating town between Anchorage and Fairbanks.
Prince William Sound, Alaska

Journey through a Glacial Alaska

Nestled against the Chugach Mountains, Prince William Sound is home to some of Alaska's stunning scenery. Neither powerful earthquakes nor a devastating oil spill affected its natural splendor.
Valdez, Alaska

On the Black Gold Route

In 1989, the Exxon Valdez oil tanker caused a massive environmental disaster. The vessel stopped plying the seas, but the victim city that gave it its name continues on the path of crude oil from the Arctic Ocean.
Florida Keys, USA

The Caribbean Stepping Stone of the USA

Os United States continental islands seem to close to the south in its capricious peninsula of Florida. Don't stop there. More than a hundred islands of coral, sand and mangroves form an eccentric tropical expanse that has long seduced American vacationers.
Miami, USA

A Masterpiece of Urban Rehabilitation

At the turn of the 25st century, the Wynwood neighbourhood remained filled with abandoned factories and warehouses and graffiti. Tony Goldman, a shrewd real estate investor, bought more than XNUMX properties and founded a mural park. Much more than honoring graffiti there, Goldman founded the Wynwood Arts District, the great bastion of creativity in Miami.
tombstone, USA

Tombstone: the City Too Hard to Die

Silver veins discovered at the end of the XNUMXth century made Tombstone a prosperous and conflictive mining center on the frontier of the United States to Mexico. Lawrence Kasdan, Kurt Russell, Kevin Costner and other Hollywood directors and actors made famous the Earp brothers and the bloodthirsty duel of “OK Corral”. The Tombstone, which, over time, has claimed so many lives, is about to last.
Miami beach, USA

The Beach of All Vanities

Few coasts concentrate, at the same time, so much heat and displays of fame, wealth and glory. Located in the extreme southeast of the USA, Miami Beach is accessible via six bridges that connect it to the rest of Florida. It is meager for the number of souls who desire it.
Little Havana, USA

Little Havana of the Nonconformists

Over the decades and until today, thousands of Cubans have crossed the Florida Straits in search of the land of freedom and opportunity. With the US a mere 145 km away, many have gone no further. His Little Havana in Miami is today the most emblematic neighborhood of the Cuban diaspora.
Grand Canyon, USA

Journey through the Abysmal North America

The Colorado River and tributaries began flowing into the plateau of the same name 17 million years ago and exposed half of Earth's geological past. They also carved one of its most stunning entrails.
sitka, Alaska

Sitka: Journey through a once Russian Alaska

In 1867, Tsar Alexander II had to sell Russian Alaska to the United States. In the small town of Sitka, we find the Russian legacy but also the Tlingit natives who fought them.
Monument Valley, USA

Indians or Cowboys?

Iconic Western filmmakers like John Ford immortalized what is the largest Indian territory in the United States. Today, in the Navajo Nation, the Navajo also live in the shoes of their old enemies.
Okavango Delta, Not all rivers reach the sea, Mokoros
safari
Okavango Delta, Botswana

Not all rivers reach the sea

Third longest river in southern Africa, the Okavango rises in the Angolan Bié plateau and runs 1600km to the southeast. It gets lost in the Kalahari Desert where it irrigates a dazzling wetland teeming with wildlife.
Faithful light candles, Milarepa Grotto temple, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 9th Manang to Milarepa Cave, Nepal

A Walk between Acclimatization and Pilgrimage

In full Annapurna Circuit, we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). we still need acclimatize to the higher stretches that followed, we inaugurated an equally spiritual journey to a Nepalese cave of Milarepa (4000m), the refuge of a siddha (sage) and Buddhist saint.
Architecture & Design
Castles and Fortresses

A Defending World: Castles and Fortresses that Resist

Under threat from enemies from the end of time, the leaders of villages and nations built castles and fortresses. All over the place, military monuments like these continue to resist.
Full Dog Mushing
Adventure
Seward, Alaska

The Alaskan Dog Mushing Summer

It's almost 30 degrees and the glaciers are melting. In Alaska, entrepreneurs have little time to get rich. Until the end of August, dog mushing cannot stop.
Military Religious, Wailing Wall, IDF Flag Oath, Jerusalem, Israel
Ceremonies and Festivities
Jerusalem, Israel

A Festive Wailing Wall

The holiest place in Judaism is not only attended by prayers and prayers. Its ancient stones have witnessed the oath of new IDF recruits for decades and echo the euphoric screams that follow.
Yucatan Peninsula, Mérida City, Mexico, Cabildo
Cities
Mérida, Mexico

The Most Exuberant of Meridas

In 25 BC, the Romans founded Emerita Augusta, capital of Lusitania. The Spanish expansion generated three other Méridas in the world. Of the four, the Yucatan capital is the most colorful and lively, resplendent with Hispanic colonial heritage and multi-ethnic life.
Tsukiji fish market, Tokyo, Japan
Meal
Tokyo, Japan

The Fish Market That Lost its Freshness

In a year, each Japanese eats more than their weight in fish and shellfish. Since 1935, a considerable part was processed and sold in the largest fish market in the world. Tsukiji was terminated in October 2018, and replaced by Toyosu's.
Parade and Pomp
Culture
Saint Petersburg, Russia

When the Russian Navy Stations in Saint Petersburg

Russia dedicates the last Sunday of July to its naval forces. On that day, a crowd visits large boats moored on the Neva River as alcohol-drenched sailors seize the city.
4th of July Fireworks-Seward, Alaska, United States
Sport
Seward, Alaska

The Longest 4th of July

The independence of the United States is celebrated, in Seward, Alaska, in a modest way. Even so, the 4th of July and its celebration seem to have no end.
scarlet summer
Traveling

Valencia to Xativa, Spain (España)

Across Iberia

Leaving aside the modernity of Valencia, we explore the natural and historical settings that the "community" shares with the Mediterranean. The more we travel, the more its bright life seduces us.

Maksim, Sami people, Inari, Finland-2
Ethnic
Inari, Finland

The Guardians of Boreal Europe

Long discriminated against by Scandinavian, Finnish and Russian settlers, the Sami people regain their autonomy and pride themselves on their nationality.
Sunset, Avenue of Baobabs, Madagascar
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio

days like so many others

tarsio, bohol, philippines, out of this world
History
Bohol, Philippines

Other-wordly Philippines

The Philippine archipelago spans 300.000 km² of the Pacific Ocean. Part of the Visayas sub-archipelago, Bohol is home to small alien-looking primates and the extraterrestrial hills of the Chocolate Hills.
Facing Ponta do Passo.
Islands
Ilhéu de Cima, Porto Santo, Portugal

The First Light of Who Navigates From Above

It is part of the group of six islets around the island of Porto Santo, but it is far from being just one more. Even though it is the eastern threshold of the Madeira archipelago, it is the island closest to Portosantenses. At night, it also makes the fanal that confirms the right course for ships coming from Europe.
Horses under a snow, Iceland Never Ending Snow Island Fire
Winter White
Husavik a Myvatn, Iceland

Endless Snow on the Island of Fire

When, in mid-May, Iceland already enjoys some sun warmth but the cold and snow persist, the inhabitants give in to an intriguing summer anxiety.
Almada Negreiros, Roça Saudade, Sao Tome
Literature
Saudade, São Tomé, São Tomé and Principe

Almada Negreiros: From Saudade to Eternity

Almada Negreiros was born in April 1893, on a farm in the interior of São Tomé. Upon discovering his origins, we believe that the luxuriant exuberance in which he began to grow oxygenated his fruitful creativity.
Train Kuranda train, Cairns, Queensland, Australia
Nature
Cairns-Kuranda, Australia

Train to the Middle of the Jungle

Built out of Cairns to save miners isolated in the rainforest from starvation by flooding, the Kuranda Railway eventually became the livelihood of hundreds of alternative Aussies.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Autumn
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
Herd in Manang, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Natural Parks
Annapurna Circuit: 8th Manang, Nepal

Manang: the Last Acclimatization in Civilization

Six days after leaving Besisahar we finally arrived in Manang (3519m). Located at the foot of the Annapurna III and Gangapurna Mountains, Manang is the civilization that pampers and prepares hikers for the ever-dreaded crossing of Thorong La Gorge (5416 m).
Jabula Beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
UNESCO World Heritage
Saint Lucia, South Africa

An Africa as Wild as Zulu

On the eminence of the coast of Mozambique, the province of KwaZulu-Natal is home to an unexpected South Africa. Deserted beaches full of dunes, vast estuarine swamps and hills covered with fog fill this wild land also bathed by the Indian Ocean. It is shared by the subjects of the always proud Zulu nation and one of the most prolific and diverse fauna on the African continent.
In elevator kimono, Osaka, Japan
Characters
Osaka, Japan

In the Company of Mayu

Japanese nightlife is a multi-faceted, multi-billion business. In Osaka, an enigmatic couchsurfing hostess welcomes us, somewhere between the geisha and the luxury escort.
Baie d'Oro, Île des Pins, New Caledonia
Beaches
Île-des-Pins, New Caledonia

The Island that Leaned against Paradise

In 1964, Katsura Morimura delighted the Japan with a turquoise novel set in Ouvéa. But the neighboring Île-des-Pins has taken over the title "The Nearest Island to Paradise" and thrills its visitors.
Gangtok House, Sikkim, India
Religion
Gangtok, India

An Hillside Life

Gangtok it is the capital of Sikkim, an ancient kingdom in the Himalayas section of the Silk Road, which became an Indian province in 1975. The city is balanced on a slope, facing Kanchenjunga, the third highest elevation in the world that many natives believe shelters a paradise valley of Immortality. Their steep and strenuous Buddhist existence aims, there, or elsewhere, to achieve it.
Back in the sun. San Francisco Cable Cars, Life Ups and Downs
On Rails
San Francisco, USA

San Francisco Cable Cars: A Life of Highs and Lows

A macabre wagon accident inspired the San Francisco cable car saga. Today, these relics work as a charm operation in the city of fog, but they also have their risks.
Creepy Goddess Graffiti, Haight Ashbury, San Francisco, USA, United States America
Society
The Haight, San Francisco, USA

Orphans of the Summer of Love

Nonconformity and creativity are still present in the old Flower Power district. But almost 50 years later, the hippie generation has given way to a homeless, uncontrolled and even aggressive youth.
Fruit sellers, Swarm, Mozambique
Daily life
Enxame Mozambique

Mozambican Fashion Service Area

It is repeated at almost all stops in towns of Mozambique worthy of appearing on maps. The machimbombo (bus) stops and is surrounded by a crowd of eager "businessmen". The products offered can be universal such as water or biscuits or typical of the area. In this region, a few kilometers from Nampula, fruit sales suceeded, in each and every case, quite intense.
Boat and helmsman, Cayo Los Pájaros, Los Haitises, Dominican Republic
Wildlife
Samaná PeninsulaLos Haitises National Park Dominican Republic

From the Samaná Peninsula to the Dominican Haitises

In the northeast corner of the Dominican Republic, where Caribbean nature still triumphs, we face an Atlantic much more vigorous than expected in these parts. There we ride on a communal basis to the famous Limón waterfall, cross the bay of Samaná and penetrate the remote and exuberant “land of the mountains” that encloses it.
Passengers, scenic flights-Southern Alps, New Zealand
Scenic Flights
Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand

The Aeronautical Conquest of the Southern Alps

In 1955, pilot Harry Wigley created a system for taking off and landing on asphalt or snow. Since then, his company has unveiled, from the air, some of the greatest scenery in Oceania.