Ilhabela, Brazil

In Ilhabela, on the way to Bonete

Manual rudder
Fisherman maneuvers a traditional boat on the rocky coast of Borrifos.
cove after cove
Coastline of the remote southwest of Ilhabela.
Cold bath
Guia Fabrício refreshes himself in the lake below the Toca waterfall.
Tropical agitation
Rough sea near Bonete beach.
Fishermen pull a fishing boat from Bonete up the beach to protect it from the high tide.
Fabrício guide and visitor from São Paulo cross a stream in Ilhabela.
a vegetable crown
Bromeliad thrives on a branch of the Ilhabela Atlantic Forest.
So Deitinho, owner of Pousada da Rosa, in Bonete.
Rough ramp
Hikers reach the top of a stony and green slope on the way to Bonete.
in dry dock
Bonete fishermen's boats, safe from the rising waters of the high tide.
Match Manager
So Deitinho in a colorful corner of Pousada da Rosa.
Boat anchored off the north of Ilhabela.
Atlantic smooth
Low waves invade the sand of a cove near Bonete.
Acrobatics & Splash
Fabrício guide slides on the natural slide of the Toca waterfall.
Beach & Atlantic Forest
Sheltered cove in the south of Ilhabela, in the vicinity of the fishing village of Bonete
Acrobatics & Splash II
Fabrício guide slides on the natural slide of the Toca waterfall.
fishing beach
Small shelter used by Bonete fishermen.
A community of caiçaras descendants of pirates founded a village in a corner of Ilhabela. Despite the difficult access, Bonete was discovered and considered one of the ten best beaches in Brazil.

In the days that we had already spent in Ilhabela, the question “And Bonete, have you gone? followed by the always highly emphasized appeal

“Ah, but you have to go!. It's Wonderful!" Who were we to doubt.

The morning after the visit to the DPNY, we met at 7 am at the offices of the Archipelagus agency and left, this time with Paulo, the guide Fabrício and the São Paulo speleologist lawyer Carol.

Paulo led us in a jeep to the beginning of the trail and returned to the back, leaving us on our legs for the next four hours. Fabrício and Carol, worried about possible injuries, still carried out a gentle muscle warm-up.

Trail ramp to Bonete, Ilhabela, Brazil

Hikers reach the top of a stony and green slope on the way to Bonete.

Through the Green Trail of Atlantic forest

The path, closed by the closed Atlantic Forest, only rarely allowed a glimpse of the Atlantic. On the other hand, shortly after the departure, he presented us with the sight, always rare, of a coral snake that, despite the risk, the caiçara Fabricio made a point of introducing us by hand.

From then on, he walked and talked without haste. Despite some ups and downs, the trail was gentle and, in addition, two strategic stops were scheduled for bathing in the Lage and Areado waterfalls.

Fabrício guide at Toca waterfall, Ilhabela, Brazil

Fabrício guide slides on the natural slide of the Toca waterfall.

The first, in addition to being really refreshing, was the stage for an acrobatic exhibition by Fabrício on a polished rock slide that ended in a delicious natural pool. The second provided a few more dips and strokes and, of course, a new attack by the ubiquitous blackies.

The Areado waterfall marked the beginning of the last third of the trail that, in a short time, left the dense jungle behind and revealed, in the distance, the beach and the village of Bonete.

The Dazzling Glimpse of Bonete

The fascination exercised by Bonete in the rest of Ilhabelians and visitors is due both to the beauty of the beach – the widest on the island, at 600 meters – wild and isolated, and to the unique history of the village.

Made up of a caiçara community originally formed by Dutch pirates, Bonete only received electricity and telephone a few years ago.

Coves in the vicinity of Bonete, Ilhabela, Brazil

Coastline of the remote southwest of Ilhabela.

The connection with the rest of the island is only possible along the same trail we had traveled or, when the sea allows it, aboard the huge canoes (made from a single hollowed-out trunk) that the fishermen manage against the strong waves with unbelievable skill.

The Picturesque Town by the Sea

For programmatic reasons for the trip, the visit to Bonete had to be brief. There was time to recover energy with a dog lunch, accompanied by rice and beans at Pousada da Rosa, explored by the picturesque Sô Deitinho and his wife.

So Deotinho, Pousada da Rosa, Bonete, Ilhabela, Brazil

So Deitinho, owner of Pousada da Rosa, in Bonete.

Afterwards, he took a quick tour through the middle of the village, passing through the improvised Praça da Conversa Mole where, as the residents themselves point out, “there are fishermen, hunters and many liars and it keeps arriving more and more…”.

Soon after, we returned to the beach where the men, some who had just arrived from fishing, others from the urbanized and commercial coast of Ilhabela, gathered together the boats to protect them from the high tide that was already coming.

Fishermen in Bonete, Ilhabela, Brazil

Fishermen pull a fishing boat from Bonete up the beach to protect it from the high tide.

Against the routine of the village, Fabrício agreed with an acquaintance of our return. According to what he had informed us, we had to leave at four o'clock in the afternoon on the dot.

If this were not so, we could find a surf too powerful at the exit of the cove and, in addition, the owner of the canoe that was going to take us ran the risk of not finding someone around the beach to help pull up the vessel.

Return to the Bonança da Maré-Vazia

As such, at the appointed time, we were on board, sitting on the bottom of the canoe to stabilize it and make it easier to overcome the surf. The fisherman's experience allowed him to accurately assess the wave sequences and made us leave with relative ease.

Fisherman maneuvers boat near Bonete Beach, Ilhabela, Brazil

Fisherman maneuvers a traditional boat on the rocky coast of Borrifos

After overcoming the biggest obstacle, the rest of the trip to the mainland coast of the island was one of pure contemplation since, allies, the wind and the sea, drenched us and prevented any photographic operation.

In the late afternoon, the soft side light that fell on the island highlighted its shapes and colors that we had not yet had the pleasure of seeing from the ocean.

From Bonete to Borrifos, where we returned to land, the images of the raw insular landscape, seen from that noisy motorized canoe, are ones that we will keep in our memory for longer.

They are also ones that contributed the most to us remembering it as the Ilhabela what is.

Nzulezu, Ghana

A Village Afloat in Ghana

We depart from the seaside resort of Busua, to the far west of the Atlantic coast of Ghana. At Beyin, we veered north towards Lake Amansuri. There we find Nzulezu, one of the oldest and most genuine lake settlements in West Africa.
Passo do Lontra, Miranda, Brazil

The Flooded Brazil of Passo do Lontra

We are on the western edge of Mato Grosso do Sul but bush, on these sides, is something else. In an extension of almost 200.000 km2, the Brazil it appears partially submerged, by rivers, streams, lakes and other waters dispersed in vast alluvial plains. Not even the panting heat of the dry season drains the life and biodiversity of Pantanal places and farms like the one that welcomed us on the banks of the Miranda River.
manaus, Brazil

The Jumps and Starts of the former World Rubber Capital

From 1879 to 1912, only the Amazon River basin generated the latex that, from one moment to another, the world needed and, out of nowhere, Manaus became one of the most advanced cities on the face of the Earth. But an English explorer took the tree to Southeast Asia and ruined pioneer production. Manaus once again proved its elasticity. It is the largest city in the Amazon and the seventh in Brazil.

Florianopolis, Brazil

The South Atlantic Azorean Legacy

During the XNUMXth century, thousands of Portuguese islanders pursued better lives in the southern confines of Brazil. In the villages they founded, traces of affinity with the origins abound.

Morro de São Paulo, Brazil

A Divine Seaside of Bahia

Three decades ago, it was just a remote and humble fishing village. Until some post-hippie communities revealed the Morro's retreat to the world and promoted it to a kind of bathing sanctuary.
Ilhabela, Brazil

Ilhabela: After Horror, the Atlantic Beauty

Ninety percent of the preserved Atlantic Forest, idyllic waterfalls and gentle, wild beaches live up to the name. But, if we go back in time, we also reveal the horrific historical facet of Ilhabela.
savuti, botswana, elephant-eating lions
Savuti, Botswana

Savuti's Elephant-Eating Lions

A patch of the Kalahari Desert dries up or is irrigated depending on the region's tectonic whims. In Savuti, lions have become used to depending on themselves and prey on the largest animals in the savannah.
Thorong La, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, photo for posterity
Annapurna (circuit)
Annapurna Circuit: 13th - High camp a Thorong La to Muktinath, Nepal

At the height of the Annapurnas Circuit

At 5416m of altitude, the Thorong La Gorge is the great challenge and the main cause of anxiety on the itinerary. After having killed 2014 climbers in October 29, crossing it safely generates a relief worthy of double celebration.
Mother Armenia Statue, Yerevan, Armenia
Architecture & Design
Yerevan, Armenia

A Capital between East and West

Heiress of the Soviet civilization, aligned with the great Russia, Armenia allows itself to be seduced by the most democratic and sophisticated ways of Western Europe. In recent times, the two worlds have collided in the streets of your capital. From popular and political dispute, Yerevan will dictate the new course of the nation.
Boat Trips

For Those Becoming Internet Sick

Hop on and let yourself go on unmissable boat trips like the Philippine archipelago of Bacuit and the frozen sea of ​​the Finnish Gulf of Bothnia.
Jumping forward, Pentecost Naghol, Bungee Jumping, Vanuatu
Ceremonies and Festivities
Pentecost Island, Vanuatu

Pentecost Naghol: Bungee Jumping for Real Men

In 1995, the people of Pentecostes threatened to sue extreme sports companies for stealing the Naghol ritual. In terms of audacity, the elastic imitation falls far short of the original.
Chania Crete Greece, Venetian Port
Chania, Crete, Greece

Chania: In the West of Crete's History

Chania was Minoan, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Venetian and Ottoman. It got to the present Hellenic nation as the most seductive city in Crete.
Margilan, Uzbekistan

An Uzbekistan's Breadwinner

In one of the many bakeries in Margilan, worn out by the intense heat of the tandyr oven, the baker Maruf'Jon works half-baked like the distinctive traditional breads sold throughout Uzbekistan
Gothic couple

Matarraña to Alcanar, Spain (España)

A Medieval Spain

Traveling through the lands of Aragon and Valencia, we come across towers and detached battlements of houses that fill the slopes. Mile after kilometer, these visions prove to be as anachronistic as they are fascinating.

4th of July Fireworks-Seward, Alaska, United States
Seward, Alaska

The Longest 4th of July

The independence of the United States is celebrated, in Seward, Alaska, in a modest way. Even so, the 4th of July and its celebration seem to have no end.
Streymoy island, Faroe Islands, Tjornuvik, Giant and Witch
Streymoy, Faroe Islands

Up Streymoy, drawn to the Island of Currents

We leave the capital Torshavn heading north. We crossed from Vestmanna to the east coast of Streymoy. Until we reach the northern end of Tjornuvík, we are dazzled again and again by the verdant eccentricity of the largest Faroese island.
Camel Racing, Desert Festival, Sam Sam Dunes, Rajasthan, India
Jaisalmer, India

There's a Feast in the Thar Desert

As soon as the short winter breaks, Jaisalmer indulges in parades, camel races, and turban and mustache competitions. Its walls, alleys and surrounding dunes take on more color than ever. During the three days of the event, natives and outsiders watch, dazzled, as the vast and inhospitable Thar finally shines through.
Sunset, Avenue of Baobabs, Madagascar
Got2Globe Photo Portfolio

days like so many others

Shuri Castle in Naha, Okinawa the Empire of the Sun, Japan
Okinawa, Japan

The Little Empire of the Sun

Risen from the devastation caused by World War II, Okinawa has regained the heritage of its secular Ryukyu civilization. Today, this archipelago south of Kyushu is home to a Japan on the shore, anchored by a turquoise Pacific ocean and bathed in a peculiar Japanese tropicalism.
Playa Nogales, La Palma, Canary Islands
La Palma, Canary Islands

The "Isla Bonita" of the Canary Islands

In 1986 Madonna Louise Ciccone launched a hit that popularized the attraction exerted by a island imaginary. Ambergris Caye, in Belize, reaped benefits. On this side of the Atlantic, the palmeros that's how they see their real and stunning Canaria.
Reindeer Racing, Kings Cup, Inari, Finland
Winter White
Inari, Finland

The Wackiest Race on the Top of the World

Finland's Lapps have been competing in the tow of their reindeer for centuries. In the final of the Kings Cup - Porokuninkuusajot - , they face each other at great speed, well above the Arctic Circle and well below zero.
Visitors to Ernest Hemingway's Home, Key West, Florida, United States
Key West, United States

Hemingway's Caribbean Playground

Effusive as ever, Ernest Hemingway called Key West "the best place I've ever been...". In the tropical depths of the contiguous US, he found evasion and crazy, drunken fun. And the inspiration to write with intensity to match.
Jingkieng Wahsurah, Nongblai Village Roots Bridge, Meghalaya, India
Meghalaya, India

The Bridges of the Peoples that Create Roots

The unpredictability of rivers in the wettest region on Earth never deterred the Khasi and the Jaintia. Faced with the abundance of trees elastic fig tree in their valleys, these ethnic groups got used to molding their branches and strains. From their time-lost tradition, they have bequeathed hundreds of dazzling root bridges to future generations.
Sheki, Autumn in the Caucasus, Azerbaijan, Autumn Homes
Sheki, Azerbaijan

autumn in the caucasus

Lost among the snowy mountains that separate Europe from Asia, Sheki is one of Azerbaijan's most iconic towns. Its largely silky history includes periods of great harshness. When we visited it, autumn pastels added color to a peculiar post-Soviet and Muslim life.
On hold, Mauna Kea volcano in space, Big Island, Hawaii
Natural Parks
Mauna Kea, Hawaii

Mauna Kea: the Volcano with an Eye out in Space

The roof of Hawaii was off-limits to natives because it housed benevolent deities. But since 1968, several nations sacrificed the peace of the gods and built the greatest astronomical station on the face of the Earth.
UNESCO World Heritage
Hungduan, Philippines

Country Style Philippines

The GI's left with the end of World War II, but the music from the interior of the USA that they heard still enlivens the Cordillera de Luzon. It's by tricycle and at your own pace that we visit the Hungduan rice terraces.
In elevator kimono, Osaka, Japan
Osaka, Japan

In the Company of Mayu

Japanese nightlife is a multi-faceted, multi-billion business. In Osaka, an enigmatic couchsurfing hostess welcomes us, somewhere between the geisha and the luxury escort.
Mahé Ilhas das Seychelles, friends of the beach
Mahé, Seychelles

The Big Island of the Small Seychelles

Mahé is the largest of the islands of the smallest country in Africa. It's home to the nation's capital and most of the Seychellois. But not only. In its relative smallness, it hides a stunning tropical world, made of mountainous jungle that merges with the Indian Ocean in coves of all sea tones.
Candia, Tooth of Buddha, Ceylon, lake
Kandy, Sri Lanka

The Dental Root of Sinhalese Buddhism

Located in the mountainous heart of Sri Lanka, at the end of the XNUMXth century, Kandy became the capital of the last kingdom of old Ceylon and resisted successive colonial conquest attempts. The city also preserved and exhibited a sacred tooth of the Buddha and, thus, became Ceylon's Buddhist center.
Train Fianarantsoa to Manakara, Malagasy TGV, locomotive
On Rails
Fianarantsoa-Manakara, Madagascar

On board the Malagasy TGV

We depart Fianarantsoa at 7a.m. It wasn't until 3am the following morning that we completed the 170km to Manakara. The natives call this almost secular train Train Great Vibrations. During the long journey, we felt, very strongly, those of the heart of Madagascar.
Merida cable car, Renovation, Venezuela, altitude sickness, mountain prevent to treat, travel
Mérida, Venezuela

The Vertiginous Renovation of the World's Highest Cable Car

Underway from 2010, the rebuilding of the Mérida cable car was carried out in the Sierra Nevada by intrepid workers who suffered firsthand the magnitude of the work.
Busy intersection of Tokyo, Japan
Daily life
Tokyo, Japan

The Endless Night of the Rising Sun Capital

Say that Tokyo do not sleep is an understatement. In one of the largest and most sophisticated cities on the face of the Earth, twilight marks only the renewal of the frenetic daily life. And there are millions of souls that either find no place in the sun, or make more sense in the “dark” and obscure turns that follow.
Ross Bridge, Tasmania, Australia
Discovering tassie, Part 3, Tasmania, Australia

Tasmania from Top to Bottom

The favorite victim of Australian anecdotes has long been the Tasmania never lost the pride in the way aussie ruder to be. Tassie remains shrouded in mystery and mysticism in a kind of hindquarters of the antipodes. In this article, we narrate the peculiar route from Hobart, the capital located in the unlikely south of the island to the north coast, the turn to the Australian continent.
Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, Kauai, Hawaii Wrinkles
Scenic Flights
napali coast, Hawaii

Hawaii's Dazzling Wrinkles

Kauai is the greenest and rainiest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It is also the oldest. As we explore its Napalo Coast by land, sea and air, we are amazed to see how the passage of millennia has only favored it.